Bulbous plants can be "forced" to bloom at any time of the year if the right conditions are created for them. If you plant bulbs prepared for distillation in late-mid-autumn, then by Christmas and New Year they will fill the house with bright colors and exquisite aromas. If you have children, they will be happy to follow the development of the roots and the appearance of the first sprouts, and then the peduncles

In the cold season, we subconsciously try to speed up the arrival of spring, especially during this period, flowering can please spring plants eg hyacinths, tulips, crocuses, daffodils. Bulbous plants can be "forced" to bloom at any time of the year, if they create the necessary conditions for this. In today's article, we propose to learn how to provide care and create the right conditions for growing spring flowers at home.

What is Bulb Forcing

Most often, the forcing technique is used to achieve flowering from spring bulbous plants earlier than usual. Bulb forcing is called the accelerated life cycle of a plant, simulating the change of seasons in a short time, as a result of which you get early flowering.

To get a blooming flower in winter, it is not enough to plant a bulb in December and wait for it to bloom. The bulb must go through all the stages laid down by nature: dormancy and rooting, awakening and the beginning of flowering. In order to achieve timely flowering of bulbous plants, it is necessary to strictly observe the time and temperature regime distillation.

Clue
At home, you can grow the following flowers: small-flowered daffodils, low-growing tulips (Kaufmann, Greig), hyacinths, hazel grouse, crocuses, scillas, muscari, irises, galanthus, viper onions and poultry.

According to the timing of flowering, distillation happens:
. early - December,
. medium - January-February,
. late - March-April.

Depending on whether you want to receive flowers by the New Year or March 8, choose the timing of planting. Forcing and germination takes an average of 16 to 22 weeks.

Choosing bulbs for distillation

When choosing bulbs for planting, it should be remembered that they use up their nutrients for the development and flowering of the plant, so already in appearance we can say that only the most selected bulbs are suitable - healthy, dense, without damage, heavy and large. Bulbs should be stored in a dark, dry place until planting.

When choosing bulbs, pay attention not only to the appearance, but also to the variety. The following bulb varieties are suitable for home distillation.

daffodils:

- Geranium (white with a pipe bordered in orange)

— Paper White (white)

- Cheerfulness (white and yellow)

Hyacinths:
- Amethyst (deep pink)

- Carnegie (white)

- City of Harlem (bright yellow)

- Orange (orange)

- Blue Magic (dark purple)

– Sky Jacket (blue)

Crocuses:
- Large-flowered (Grand Maitre - lilac, Pickwick - white-lilac with venation)

- Small-flowered varieties (Dorothy - white-yellow-brown, Golden Bunch - yellow)

Ready for forcing, already past the cooling period from the manufacturer, flower bulbs can be bought at the garden center or supermarket. These bulbs are specifically labeled "winter forcing flower bulbs" and are slightly more expensive than regular bulbs.

Containers and soil for distillation

Clay or plastic pots with drainage holes in the bottom will do. They should be 2-3 times higher than the bulb. If the pot is not very beautiful, it can be placed in a planter, vase or decorative bucket.

For forcing a large number of plants, racks, boxes, wide low pots, and bowls are often used. A container suitable for forcing the bulbs should have drainage holes and a drip tray to drain the water.

You can use bulbs of different types or even different plants for forcing in one container. It is only important that these plants require the same period of time from planting to flowering. In a pot with planted bulbs, you can decorate the surface of the soil with moss or a layer of gravel.

For forcing, any garden soil- the main thing is that it is moisture-absorbing and breathable. Cups, pots or vases should have a large drainage hole, which should be covered with a crock before filling with substrate. Next, you need to pour a thin layer of drainage on the bottom of the tank, filling it with sand on top, and then fill it with a substrate. The soil is ready, pour a little water and plant the bulbs on it, so that they do not touch each other and the walls of the pot.

Bulb forcing periods

Period "Winter"

Simulation of the "winter" period includes cooling and rooting. During the cooling (rest) period, place the bulbs in the lower compartment of the refrigerator - the “warmest” place in the refrigerator, with a stable temperature of + 4-5 °.

There are two common ways to store flower bulbs for forcing:

> keep them in an open paper bag or net, checking regularly to make sure they don't rot
> plant the bulbs in a pot with soil and then put these pots in a place with a temperature of +5 °. This method is suitable if you plan to bloom in the spring.

The duration of cooling for different bulbous flowers is also different, on average it is 2-4 months. Shortening the cooling period is not recommended, because this can lead to underdevelopment and death of both peduncles and the flowers themselves.

Period "Spring"

After winter comes spring - remove the rooted bulbs from a cool place, plant the bulbs in pots and put them in a brighter place. The bulbs begin to germinate and after a while (for each bulbous plant - its own) it will definitely bloom.

You can place the bulbs for forcing tightly, but it is better that they do not come into contact with each other and with the wall of the pot. Top the forcing bulbs with a layer of garden soil, compacting the surface slightly.
Clue

Bulbs of hyacinth, cyclamen and hippeastrum should protrude slightly above the soil surface, and the bulbs of other plants should be placed a little deeper.

Caring for bulbs after they germinate

After the forcing bulbs are planted in pots, leave them in a cool and dark place until roots appear from the drainage holes of the pot, and green sprouts from above. Now you can move the pots to a cool room, gradually adding light.

Further care of the bulbs is regular watering. Very soon, the first buds will appear from the bulbs. Keep the bulbs in bright light until the buds begin to open. After that, remove the flowering bulbs after forcing from the windowsill. These flowers do not like at all when direct rays of the sun fall on them, they also do not tolerate sudden changes in temperature and drafts. The pot is best placed away from the battery, in a dark place.

Advice
If you want to save the bulbs for later use, then the plant should be watered until the leaves turn yellow. After the leaves die off, you need to remove the bulbs from the container, dry them and store them in a cool, dry place until autumn, and then plant them in open ground.

For long flowering, it is necessary to observe the correct and regular watering. Make sure the soil is always moist. For irrigation, use settled water at room temperature. For long flowering, the flower needs constant feeding.

Usually spring bulbs are planted near the house in flower beds, flower beds or mixborders. This method is good for everyone, except for one thing - all this variety of crocuses, tulips and daffodils does not bloom for long, leaving ugly withered leaves on the surface of the earth. We have to dig up the bulbs and transfer them to the inconspicuous backyard of the site in order to plant summer flowers in the vacant place. Uncomfortable. In Europe, another method of growing bulbs has long been used - in containers or pots. In courtyards where the entire surface of the earth is occupied by a lawn, this method will come in handy. It is also a great opportunity to green a terrace, veranda, paved patio or borders. concrete paths.

Despite the fact that we will only admire the beauty of flowering bulbs in pots in spring, planting should be carried out in the fall - in October or November.

Before landing, let's decide on some compositional issues. The easiest way is to plant several types of bulbous plants in separate small pots. By changing their location relative to each other, you can create new flower arrangements every time. Also, this method will be convenient for masking bald spots in flowerbeds, where letniki have not yet had time to ascend.

Upon request and availability big pot(flowerpot, container) can be arranged and mixed landings. To do this, several sequentially flowering bulbs are planted in layers in one container, the decorative effect of which will alternate throughout the spring. Often, daffodils, tulips and crocuses are selected for such blooming "pies". Firstly, all these plants are very beautiful and you can find their bulbs in any flower shop- no problem. Secondly, such a “composition” guarantees the decorativeness of the plantings enough long time.

Preparatory work with "mordant"

After acquiring bulbs and pots (or one large container), it's time to plant. You should know that it is impossible to plant bulbs without pre-treatment - it is likely that they are infected with fungi. That's why planting material should be “pickled” - hold for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide (Maxim, foundationazole, karbofos, etc.).

Planting bulbs in pots

Prepared bulbs are planted in pots at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other (horizontally). From above they are sprinkled with a layer of soil, the thickness of which is:

• 12-15 cm - for daffodils
• 7-10 cm - for tulips
• 3-5 cm - for crocuses and hyacinths

Landings are generously shed with water so that water drains from the drainage holes. It is advisable to sprinkle the surface of the soil with sand or, if slight frosts are expected at the place of future storage, mulch with sawdust. To prevent extracurricular germination of plants, the pots are covered with opaque material and taken to the storage site.

Stratification - cold storage

For bulbous plants, the period of stratification is important - cold testing. In other words, in order for the bulbs to germinate, they should be placed in a cool place for a while. Therefore, pots with plantings are stored on a glazed veranda, terrace or any outbuilding where the air temperature in winter will be around 3-8 ° C. In principle, a short-term drop in temperature below zero is allowed, but this should be the exception rather than the rule.

You should know that the temperature for rooting most bulbs is 5-10 ° C. Therefore, if during planting it turns out that the temperature in the place of their future maintenance has fallen below the permissible limit, stratification should be postponed for several days (up to a week). Leave the pots in a warm room where the bulbs will root safely. After that, you can send the pots for cool storage.

The term of stratification (storage) is usually 2-3 months. After that, you can bring landing in a warm room. Usually, by this time, germinated sprouts are already visible on the surface of the soil in pots. Flowering after an increase in temperature occurs in 2-4 weeks (depending on the type of bulbs planted).

The "noses" of tulips have hatched, which means we should expect flowering soon

If you plan to decorate an outdoor area (terrace, paths, etc.) with blooming bulbs, then wait for the temperature to rise naturally outside. Then potted bulbous plants will bloom simultaneously with ground plants.

The secrets of caring for bulbs in pots

Special difficulties in the care of potted bulbs is not. The main thing is to water and fertilize them on time. It is very important to provide plants good lighting, otherwise they will stretch and lose their “marketable” appearance.

Coolness is another important component of proper care. In a hot room, bulbous flowering will be reduced to a minimum, so most optimal temperatures content - 10-19 degrees. This is the flowering temperature of the bulbs in the natural environment, that is, in open ground.

Thus, if you manage to reproduce natural growing conditions in a tight pot, then in early March you will be able to decorate your site with armfuls of bright flowers and bring the feeling of spring closer.

AMARYLLIS: PLANTING AND CARE

In the past, amaryllis (Arnarillis belladonna) was a very common and popular indoor plant, but now it is quite rare among flower growers, as it has been greatly pressed by its more successful counterpart, hippeastrum.

With some famous plants, fate played a cruel joke. Their commonly used name does not match the correct botanical one. The most famous example is the geranium-pelargonium. Often this is not of fundamental importance, but the case of amaryllis is special, so

how is it life cycle and some elements of agricultural technology differ from those of the outwardly very similar hippeastrum, garden molds which go on sale under the commercial name "amaryllis". Further aggravating the confusion is the fact that in the selection of these hippeastrums (N. xhortorium), indeed, hybridization with amaryllis was widely used.

Accommodation and boarding

Like the vast majority of bulbous plants, amaryllis is very photophilous and the place for its maintenance should be brightly lit. It tolerates direct sunlight well, and windows with a southeast or southwest exposure will be optimal for placement. The soil prefers light, medium fertility. Mixture sod land, humus and sand (1:1:2) will fully satisfy his needs. A drainage layer is required at the bottom of the pot. The top of the bulb should rise slightly above the soil surface. The roots of amaryllis are very brittle, so the planting procedure is carried out carefully. For the same reason, it is advisable to transplant the bulb no more than once every 3-4 years.

seasonal cycle

Controlling parameters external environment, flowering of most bulbs can be caused at almost any time of the year. Amaryllis is no exception. However, under room conditions, it would be optimal to time the end of the dormant period at the beginning of spring. If necessary, the plant is transplanted and the overgrown nests are divided. At the beginning of leaf growth, watering is limited. Gradually increase it, but always moisten the soil very moderately and carefully, allowing the top layer to dry slightly. In the vegetative phase, once a decade it is useful to feed the plant, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers.

By mid-late summer, the leaves of amaryllis begin to gradually die off. At this time, watering should be gradually reduced. Soon a flower arrow appears. Each individual flower does not live long, but the total duration of flowering of a perennial nest can be about a month, especially at moderate temperatures.

At the end of flowering, the pot with the bulb should be placed in a dark, cool room with a temperature of about + 10 degrees, for at least 2-3 months. A dormant period for amaryllis is required. Although the plant is dormant, its roots do not dry out, so the ground should remain slightly damp.

Reproduction of amaryllis

They bloom at good care after 3-4 years. Although it is better not to do this without the need, since the “family” group formed over several years looks much more spectacular than a single bulb. If you are going to follow this advice, immediately take a wide pot when planting. To increase the decorative effect, you can initially plant several bulbs in one pot.

If you wish, you can try seed propagation, but you will have to wait at least 5 years for the first flowering of seedlings. Seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, so they must be sown within a month after ripening, lightly sprinkled with a substrate. At a temperature of + 23-25 ​​degrees, shoots appear in 2-3 weeks. A leaf will appear - seedlings dive.

Possible difficulties

Amaryllis is generally unpretentious. Of the possible problems, the main one is the rotting of the bulb against the background of excessive moisture. In order to prevent various kinds of rot, periodic treatments with one of the microbiological fungicides (Alirin, Gliocladin, Fitosporin, etc.) can be recommended. When a disease occurs, the bulb is cleaned of soil, the affected parts are cut out, treated with a fungicide (for example, Maxim), and the damage sites are sprinkled activated carbon, slightly dry (2-3 hours) and planted in a new soil. The first watering in 1-2 days after planting, in the future - very moderate.

The main pests - scale insects and spider mites, most often appear in dry air conditions. For the fight, insecticides and acaricides approved for use are used.

Alexander TSYMBAL. plant collector, Togliatti

Another important and pleasant difference between amaryllis and hippeastrum is its high rate of formation of daughter bulbs. Therefore, there are no problems with reproduction. Babies are carefully separated during transplantation.

AMARCRINUM: LANDING AND CARE

This representative of the bulbous is still not very common in home collections, although it is undoubtedly worthy of attention.

Howard's Amarcrinum (Amarcrinum howardii) is a hybrid of Amaryllis and Crinum (Amaryllis belladonna x Crinum). This evergreen plant is 60-70 cm high with pleasant pink flowers. In the spring it grows a shock of long, belt-shaped leaves, and blooms in late summer and early autumn. Peduncles reach 90-100 cm.

In early spring, the bulb is planted in the ground, deepening into the soil at half its height. During the growing season (from spring to autumn) they are fed 2-3 times a month, at the beginning of growth - with a greater proportion of nitrogen, closer to the time of flowering, the proportion of potassium and phosphorus is increased. It is important not to exceed the recommended concentration of fertilizers, but it is better to lower it by 1.5-2 times. Shortly after flowering, the interval and intensity of watering is reduced, and top dressing is stopped. When part of the leaves turns yellow and dries out, the pot with the plant is transferred to a room with a temperature of +10 degrees or lower. Cold wintering is a must.

Amarcrinum loves Fresh air and natural diurnal temperature variations. In the warm season, it is advisable to take it out to the balcony, to the loggia or to the garden. Can be planted directly in open ground (in regions with mild winters)

we can overwinter with shelter). Like its "progenitor" amaryllis, Howard's amarcrinum actively builds up children and forms large nests of bulbs. Therefore, for planting plants pick up a spacious wide pot. The soil is loose and nutritious. The plant is propagated by daughter bulbs during transplantation.

In my opinion, amarcrinum is easier to care for than amaryllis, and it also blooms more readily.

Elena KUZNETSOVA, Amaryllidaceae collector, Pumza

BOVIEA: LANDING AND CARE

Zulu potato, creeping onion, sea cucumber - these are not all the names of curly bowiea (Bowiea volubilis), which were awarded to her by local residents in her homeland, in South and South-West Africa.

it graceful plant on modern classification belongs to the Asparagaceae family. With its unusual appearance, Boviaya will surely appeal to lovers of the exotic.

Peculiarities

Bulbs in rooms grow up to 5-7, rarely 10 cm in diameter, usually covered with dry scales. When kept in conditions of moderate lighting and abundant watering, the scales do not dry out for a long time and remain green.

In spring, a juicy, green, highly branched, winding peduncle (or several) grows from the center of an adult bulb, which, in addition to flowering itself (which happens relatively rarely in rooms), carries out the entire photosynthetic function. The length of its lashes can be more than a meter. They can be provided with vertical support or allowed to hang down freely. The openwork, incredibly intertwined greenery of the boviea looks most impressive when several bulbs are planted in a pot.

Bovia care

Bovia is unpretentious in care. It can grow both in the sun (shaded in summer) and in partial shade. Under midday direct rays, the plant can get burned, which will lead to a loss of decorative effect and premature death of the aerial part.

When planting, only the lower part of the bulb is deepened. The mixture is like for succulents, not too nutritious, with obligatory loosening additives (coarse sand, perlite, etc.). It is important not to overdo it with watering - in summer it is enough to moisten every 7-10 days. Excess and stagnation of moisture is fraught with rotting of the bulb.

In autumn, with a decrease in daylight hours, the aerial part dries up and the plant rests all winter. At this time, it is desirable to provide him with coolness (about +15 degrees) and not disturb with watering, keep it completely dry.

It should be remembered that climbing bovia is a poisonous plant.

Natalia GUBANOVA. Minsk club of cactus lovers. Author's photo

VALLOTA: LANDING AND CARE

We have been friends with Vallota for more than five years. This plant was my cherished dream, attracted by unpretentiousness, bright red color of flowers and compactness.

The leaves of the wallot, unlike the hip-peastrum, are shorter and do not disappear for the winter, allowing the plant to retain its decorative effect. all year round. And the peduncle is low, with a neat bouquet of flowers. The bulb is slightly elongated, oval, integumentary scales and leaves at the base are brown-crimson - by these features it is easy to distinguish it from others bulbous family Amaryllis.

And I was also surprised by her numerous babies that appear in the axils of the leaves. Separated from the mother plant and falling into the pot, they form contractile roots, which, as if by magic, draw the bulbs into the soil to the required depth.

Long awaited acquisition

I was lucky - at one of the flower markets I met my dream. In the center of the pot, surrounded by children different ages, sat a large bulb, decorated with a peduncle with four bright red flowers - everything, as I imagined.

At home, she carefully examined the plant, processed it for prevention from pests, and gave some of the children. After a couple of weeks, the peduncle was cut in half, waited for its lower part to dry, and removed completely.

Wallot transplant

Next up was a transplant. During this procedure, I always separate part of the children, leaving no more than 3-4, so as not to deplete the mother bulb. The roots of the wallot are plump, but fragile, and easily rot if damaged. Therefore, I powdered them with a mixture of crushed charcoal with root. While they were drying in the air, poured into a pot bigger size a layer of drainage, lined with a thin layer of moss, crumbled a little dry chicken manure near the walls - she loves top dressing, especially organic matter. Terra Vita took the soil, added vermiculite, sand, black earth and crushed moss (5: 0.5: 0.5: 1: 0.5). She poured the soil mixture in a slide, carefully straightened the roots and filled the rest of the space with soil. The onions rose a third above the ground.

After transplanting, I watered the shaft-lot not immediately (it is enough that the soil is moderately moist), but after a week. This made it possible for the roots to get used to the fresh soil, and the wounds to drag on. Until the first watering, she kept the plant in the twilight and cool.

About flowering

The Vallota is now on the top shelf of the west loggia. Only at the time of flowering I transfer the plant to a shelf closer to the door, so that from the room you can admire its bright flowers. Blooms mainly in summer or autumn. Each flower lasts an average of ten days, and given that they do not open at the same time, you can admire the blooming wallot for a long time.

rest period

After the end of flowering for a month and a half, I continue to water and feed the plant, then I definitely arrange a dormant period. I keep the wallot at a temperature of + 8-10 degrees, watering is gradually reduced to a minimum, but I do not allow the loss of leaves - it is very important to save in winter most foliage.

In the spring I move the wallot closer to the light, I resume watering and fertilizing. I feed and mineral fertilizers for flowering plants, and infusion of chicken manure. In warm weather, I water abundantly, but between watering I let the soil dry out. Wallot does not tolerate constantly moist soil.

If desired, you can achieve repeated flowering of the plant by arranging for it an additional dormant period.

When propagated by seeds, wallot blooms in the third year, when propagated by daughter bulbs - in the second. Before flowering, seedlings can be grown without a dormant period.

Elena KHOMICH, Balashikha, Moscow Region Author's photo

From the editor: according to the modern classification, the Vallot family has been disbanded. Species formerly included in it are now included in the genera Cirtanthus and Clivia. The name Vallota speciosa is now synonymous with the name Cyrtanthus elatus.

GEMANTHUS: LANDING AND CARE

A "deer tongue" settled on my windowsill. That is what the people call this interesting bulbous plant.

Hemanthuses come from South Africa. Translated from Greek, hemanthus means "bloody flower", it received such a name due to the fact that most representatives of the genus have rich red flowers. But among lovers of indoor plants, the white-flowered gemanthus (Haemanthus albiflos) is more popular - a very spectacular and fairly simple plant to maintain.

View features

Broad, dense, oval, slightly pubescent leaves (because of which he received the nickname "deer tongue") are arranged in a dense fan. Usually there are few of them - from two to six. The height of the plant is 20-25 cm. It grows slowly, usually only two new leaves grow per year. The old leaves die off, and the bulb gradually thickens and reaches 6-8 cm in an adult plant. The flowering of the white-flowered hemanthus is very interesting - the inflorescence on a thick peduncle looks like a bowl full of snow-white stamens with yellow pollen. In adult plants, 2-3 peduncles may appear. Hemanthus blooms usually in late summer or early autumn.

Hemanthus: care

The plant is photophilous, but does not like direct sunlight at the height of summer - the tips of the leaves can burn and dry. The ideal place for him is an east or west window. On the south window, the gemanthus must be shaded. Watering in the summer is plentiful, but the soil between waterings must definitely dry out. Two or three times during the growing season (from May to September), hemanthus can be fed with complex fertilizer for bulbous crops. In winter, it is desirable for the plant to provide a period of relative rest at a temperature of + 15-18 degrees, with more rare watering.

Hemanthus transplant

Once every two or three years, at the beginning of spring, it is advisable to transplant the hemanthus. The plant prefers loose and nutritious soil. I mix two parts soddy soil and one part coarse sand. You can add some peat to this mixture. At the bottom of the pot I pour a layer of drainage (expanded clay or fine gravel), then soil, install the bulb, evenly distributing the roots, and fill it with about a third of the height. The pot should not be too wide or deep. You can recommend a container with a diameter of two to three times the diameter of the bulb. There must be holes to drain excess water: hemanthus roots are sensitive to moisture stagnation in the soil and can rot, especially if the plant is in a cool room or in a draft.

Hemanthus reproduction

Reproduction of hemanthus is not difficult. At the base of an adult bulb, small baby bulbs regularly appear, which can be easily separated from the mother plant and rooted in separate pots. Young plants usually bloom in the 3-4th year.

Hemanthus can also be propagated by seeds - juicy red fruits are often tied after flowering (the plant is prone to self-pollination) and ripen in about three months, by the beginning of winter.

Possible difficulties

Hemanthus white-flowered is quite resistant to pests. Sometimes it can be attacked by aphids, worms, spider mites. In this case, the plant is treated with appropriate preparations. With regular waterlogging, especially in combination with low temperatures, rotting of the roots and the bulbs themselves is possible.

HIPPEASTRELIA: LANDING AND CARE

There are not so many intergeneric hybrids in the Amaryllis family. One of them, a hybrid of hippeastrum and the most beautiful sprekelia, was obtained back in the 70s of the last century.

In my opinion, Hippeastrelia (x Hippeastrelia) has absorbed some of the advantages of both parents: from Hippeastrum - the relative ease of flowering, and from Sprekelia - the elegance of the flower lines and the rich bright red color of the petals.

Features of hippeastrelia

The bulb is reddish, slightly smaller in size, in most varieties of hippeastrum, it is dense to the touch, covered with several layers

dark dry scales. Gives babies abundantly, forming a "nest". The leaves are dark green, narrow (not more than 3 cm wide), long, with a groove on the upper side, also reddish at the base. Grow at the end of winter-spring, simultaneously or immediately after flowering.

Planting and substrate for hippeastrelia

Plant the bulb, deepening half or a third of its height. Planting time (December to March) depends on the time of retirement the previous autumn - the plant should rest for about three months. If the bulb is "sleeping", you can wait with planting - until a lighter period, and if the tip of the peduncle or leaves appears - it's time to plant. Although, if the time has come for awakening, the bulb can be planted without the corresponding signs - moisture, heat, light will do their job, and it will wake up.

The soil for planting is loose, water and breathable. A mixture of universal flower soil, leaf soil and baking powder (coarse sand, perlite) is suitable. Drainage is required at the bottom of the pot. The shape of the container is standard, the height is slightly larger than the diameter. From the edge of the pot to the bulb - about 3 cm.

Watering and fertilizing

The first time after planting, the plant is watered sparingly. Until the bulb is well rooted, excess moisture will not be good for it. When the leaves begin to grow, watering can be increased and at the height of the growing season, water as the topsoil dries out. It is better to drain the water from the pan.

Feeding begins about a month after planting, after the end of flowering, once every two weeks. If there is no specialized fertilizer for bulbs, at the beginning of growth, a complex fertilizer for ornamental foliage is suitable, from August it is better to reduce the proportion of nitrogen.

Hippeastrelia: care

Under bright lighting, with several hours of direct morning or evening sun per day, hippeastrelia leaves will be strong, “tanned”, the outlet will not fall apart and retain its decorative effect. From the lack of light, the leaves are stretched, thinner and often droop / lie down under their own weight.

Daily temperature fluctuations and an abundance of fresh air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of the plant and subsequent winter flowering, so that in the warm season, hippea-streliya can be taken out to the garden, to the balcony, to the loggia and placed in light openwork penumbra.

rest period

In autumn, from the end of September, watering is gradually reduced, and when night temperatures begin to drop below + 8-10 degrees, the plant is taken into the room without digging, put for wintering in a dark, cool (preferably no higher than + 15 degrees) place. The leaves are removed after complete drying. Hippeastrelia overwinters without leaves. My copy copes with the rest and subsequent awakening without problems, although it dries out by spring by almost a third of its “autumn” volume due to a higher than necessary temperature (+ 18-20 degrees).

Hippeastrelia flowering

Hippeastrelia usually produces 1-2 dark red peduncles bearing two flowers each. Their height depends on the level of illumination. Sometimes flower stalks develop simultaneously, and sometimes in turn. This spring, as many as three flower stalks blazed with a bouquet of bright red flowers for a week! The spectacle is impressive, and worth the wait for a whole year.

Natalia GUBANOVA, plant collector, Minsk. Photo by Alexey GUBANOV

DRIMIOPSIS: LANDING AND CARE

I have had a plant for many years that surprises everyone who sees it for the first time. No, it does not have such flowers as orchids, and its size is modest, and its leaves are discreet. Nevertheless, drimiopsis always attracts attention.

Indeed, the pot is filled with bulbs, which in appearance resemble the bulbs of garden lilies, and the leaves on high motley petioles look like lily of the valley leaves, only speckled. During flowering, drimiopsis from afar can also be mistaken for a lily of the valley. No wonder - both plants belong to the same Asparagus family, but drimiopsis flowers are more like stars than bells. White at the beginning, they turn green towards the end of flowering.

Dating history

Drimiopsis spotted appeared to me a long time ago, about 12 years ago. I bought a small bulb with a couple of speckled leaves in the market and, fortunately, the hostess even knew its name. And I called it “dream” to myself, from the English “dream”.

Survive in any conditions

Drimiopsis gave many children, and I shared with everyone. Arriving one day to a friend, I did not immediately recognize my plant. When I asked what happened to drimiopsis, my friend replied that she didn’t do anything special, planted it in a spacious bowl, watered it like all flowers. But the leaves of the plant were three times larger than mine, just some kind of burdock. Perhaps the dreamiopsis liked the place on the windowsill in the bathroom: warm, light and humid. I take care of my copy like a succulent: a cramped pot, moderate watering, a lot of light. Hence the conclusion - the plant will survive in any conditions, this is also confirmed by the case that happened to my drimiopsis.

Miracles of Fortitude

For several years the plant was not transplanted and the bulbs were already hardly placed in a pot. In the spring I was going to make a transplant, took the plant out of the flowerpot and saw that there was no earth left at all, only bulbs and roots. But something prevented me from finishing the job, I put the bulbs in a cardboard box and put them on the shelf. In the spring, there are enough worries, and if there are more than one hundred indoor plants, and there are no less in the garden, then you won’t immediately notice the “loss” of one of them. In general, I found a box of bulbs before the New Year, cleaning up on the shelves (fortunately, our veranda is heated). For 8 months, the bulbs did not even lose turgor, although there were no leaves or roots. I planted the five largest ones in a bowl, and distributed the rest to my friends. A month later, all the bulbs took root, a little later leaves and babies appeared, and by May the plant bloomed as if nothing had happened. Well, how not to admire such vitality?

Easy care

In spring and summer, I water drimiopsis regularly, 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather. autumn

I reduce watering to 1 time per week, and in winter time- up to 2-3 times a month. Sometimes in winter, the plant loses some of the leaves, this is a natural process, so a little drying of the earthy coma at this time of the year will not harm it. I use the same soil as for all bulbs: universal purchased soil a plus garden soil with the addition of charcoal and vermiculite. As a drainage I take expanded clay. When planting, the bulbs should protrude 2/3 above the soil surface; in the process of growth, they almost completely “come out” of it. Drimiopsis spends summer in a room; on the street, its delicate leaves on high petioles can be ruffled by the wind and burn the sun. Its usual place is on a table near the west window; in hot summers, it feels good on the north window.

Settle such an unpretentious spotted miracle on your windowsill, you will not regret it!

Valentina MIRONOVA, Bataysk, Rostov region Photo by the author and Valentina VASILEVSKAYA

ZEPHYRANTHES: LANDING AND CARE

The Latin name Zephyranthes translates as "flower of the west wind" and reflects the unexpectedness of the appearance of peduncles and the speed of development of the flowers of this plant. Because of this feature, zephyranthes are often called the "upstart".

Zephyranthes are small plants with small cone-shaped bulbs up to 2.5-3 cm in diameter and narrow linear leaves up to 30 cm long, which most often grow simultaneously with flowers. Peduncle 20-30 cm long bears the only relatively large flower, surrounded by two fused bracts. Its life span is only a few days, but each bulb can form several peduncles, so new ones appear instead of wilted flowers.

Zephyranthes flowers are pink, white or yellow with a funnel-shaped perianth, bloom in spring and summer, in some species - in winter. In the case of pollination, a fruit is formed - a box with flat dark seeds.

Keep in mind that marshmallows contain toxic alkaloids. In some countries they are used as medicinal plants.

Zephyranthes Care

Zephyranthes is photophilous and feels comfortable under direct sunbeams. In summer, the plant can be taken out to the loggia, to the balcony, and even planted in open ground. During the growing season, watering is regular, but moderate - as the topsoil dries up, without overflows and stagnation of water in the pot. Humidity does not play a significant role. For the full formation of flower buds, the bulbs arrange a dormant period - a dry and cool wintering.

To this end, in the fall, watering is gradually reduced, which leads to yellowing and drying of the leaves. Contain at a temperature of + 12-14 (not lower than +10) degrees. Leafless bulbs can not be watered, and if the leaves are partially preserved, the plant is kept in a bright place, rarely (once a month) and moistened very sparingly. Regular watering is resumed after the start of the growing season.

Zephyranthes transplant

Under the condition of regular fertilizing during growth with complex mineral fertilizers (once every two weeks), an annual transplant is not required. Only overgrown nests of bulbs are planted, which become cramped in a pot (about once every 3-4 years). Best time for this - spring, at the end of the dormant period. The bulbs are planted in fertile loose and well-drained soil, deepening so that the tops are at the level of the surface of the substrate. To achieve maximum decorative effect use wide and low pots, in which several specimens are planted at once. At first, water very carefully to avoid rotting of the bulbs.

reproduction

It is easiest to propagate zephyranthes with daughter bulbs. Rarely seeds. To obtain them, artificial pollination of flowers is required. Seedlings usually bloom for 3-4 years.

Diversity

In the subtropical and tropical regions of America, there are about 40 species of zephyranthes. In room conditions, the most common: - Zephyranthes atamasca (ZEPHYRANTHES atamasca) with white flowers, originally from the southern states of the USA;

– white zephyranthes(Zephyranthes Candida) with crocus-shaped, white flowers, from the tropical zone of eastern South America. A favorite indoor plant, known in culture since 1515. Unlike other species, it retains leaves during the dormant period;

– zephyranthes grandiflora(Zephyranthes grandiflora) with large pink flowers, grows in Mexico, Guatemala on the island of Jamaica;

– zephyranthes pink(Zephyranthes rosea) with pink flowers, from Central America, differs from 3tabhfyntcf large-flowered in smaller sizes;

– golden zephyranthes(Zephyranthes aurea) with golden yellow flowers, originally from Peru.

Less common zephyranthes lemon yellow(Zephyranthes citrina) with bright yellow flowers, Zephyranthes Drummonda(Zephyranthes drummondii) - with white flowers, outside having a salmon-pink hue, Lindley's zephyranthes (Zephyranthes lindleyana) with large pink flowers and others.

Breeders have bred dozens of varieties with flowers of various colors, shapes and sizes. Modern cultivars are represented by pastel-colored zephyranthes, unusual shades of red, two-tone with a bright contrasting center, as well as striped and double flowers.

KRINUM: LANDING AND CARE

In my amaryllis family, the reddish krinum (Crinum erubescens) appeared three years ago as a baby. Flower growers complain that it does not bloom for a long time, growing leaves for years.

I managed to admire its flowers in just a couple of years. The secret is simple - for flowering krinum needs a dormant period in coolness.

1st year. The resulting krinum baby was planted in a universal purchased soil with the addition of baking powder (perlite, coarse sand). She successfully took root and started to grow.

Watered moderately and evenly throughout the year, kept in a bright place. 2nd year. Transplanted into a larger pot. Krinum has increased in size and has grown "children" - it means that it has become old enough for a dormant period. In autumn, I gradually reduced watering and transferred it to the loggia. There, the krinum rested in coolness until February with rare moistening once a month and a half. During this time, some "kids" dried up due to lack of moisture.

At the end of winter, she resumed her usual watering regime, but did not replant the plant, since the cramped pot in an adult krinum stimulates flowering. 3rd year. In the spring and all summer, the krinum actively grew, increased the children and sometimes dried them. In the fall, she again sent him to the loggia with minimal watering. And now, finally, in the spring, the spout of the peduncle appeared!

I looked every day - how the “arrow” is increasing there.

I admired the long-awaited flowering for a week - unfortunately, the flowers of the krinum, like many amaryllis, quickly wither.

How to distinguish from others

I often come across the fact that flower growers have this amazing plant, but they either confuse it with other members of the Amaryllis family, or they don’t know at all who it is and what its name is. Crinum both in bloom and not blooming form easy to distinguish:

• - krinum leaves grow in a circle, coming out of the middle, twisted into a tube;
• - if you pull on dry scales, a “spider web” will stretch (typical only for krinum);
• - and if the krinum has bloomed, it’s quite simple: its flowers do not have a crown, like the hymenocallis, with which it is often scared.

The name "ledeburia" was given to the genus in honor of the famous German botanist, explorer of Siberia and Altai, Carl Friedrich von Ledebur. The plant itself comes from the Cape Province of South Africa, where it grows on open plains and in dry floodplains that are flooded during the rainy season.

View features

Ledeburia has very beautiful lanceolate leaves 7-10 cm tall, purple-violet below, and silvery with green spots above.

Elena KUZNETSOVA, Penza. Photo by Tatiana Sanchuk

LEDEBURIA: LANDING AND CARE

Ledebouria socialis, or Violet Scilla (Scilla violacea) is one of the few bulbous plants that is decorative all year round.

The bulb is small, purple, usually half immersed in the ground. Abundantly formed daughter onions soon fill the pot, forming a kind of curtain, for which ledeburia was called public. In March-April, inflorescences with greenish bell-shaped flowers appear on plants with large bulbs.

Ledebury care

Ledeburia is photophilous and prefers southern windows, it can also grow in western or southeastern windows (if there is not enough light, the color of the leaves may fade), it is undemanding to air humidity. It develops well in a loose nutrient substrate, for example, in leafy soil with the addition of humus. Requires moderate watering, the earth ball should dry out regularly. In spring and summer, ledeburia is fed with fertilizers for bulbous or complex fertilizer with a predominance of potassium - at half the recommended dose once every two weeks. In summer, the plant can be taken out into the garden, but it should be remembered that it does not tolerate a drop in temperature below +7 degrees.

Reproduction of ledeburia

Ledeburia is propagated by daughter bulbs, which can be separated at any time of the year, but it is also easy to propagate from seeds. It is recommended to transplant overgrown nests into a new substrate every 3-4 years, while separating excess bulbs, thereby slightly rejuvenating the plant.

Possible difficulties

Ledeburia is quite unpretentious and is rarely affected by pests and diseases. Of the main pests, one can name a spider mite and a scale insect; aphids and thrips can occasionally harm. As a result of overflow, especially with cold water, the roots can rot. Plants should be periodically inspected and appropriate preparations applied, if necessary.

Diversity

In addition to public ledeburia in culture indoor floriculture you can also find Ledebouria Cooper (Ledebouria cooperi) and yellow ledeburia (Ledebourialuteola). At Ledeburia Cooper green leaves with longitudinal purple stripes and bright pink fragrant flowers. The leaves of yellow ledeburia are smaller, yellowish-green in color, with a pattern of dark spots.

Tatyana KUSHNIKOVA, plant collector, Novosibirsk

SCADOXUS: LANDING AND CARE

I was very impressed when I first saw the bright, unusual flowering of Skadoxus - three spectacular openwork inflorescences resembling giant dandelions towered above the soil in a pot, on leafless peduncles.

Scadoxus multiflorus (Scadoxus multiflorus)- one of 9 species of the genus of bulbous plants of the Amaryllis family. Distributed in South Africa, the Arabian Peninsula and the Seychelles. It occurs in lowlands and mountain forests, savannas, meadows and pastures, along river banks, where it grows in the shade of trees and shrubs. In culture, scadoxus is grown as a houseplant, for forcing at various times, and even as a cut crop.

Previously, this plant was attributed to the genus Haemanthus (Haemanthus), whose name in Greek means "bloody flower". In 1976, it was separated into an independent genus Skadoxus, but the popular names still reflect the peculiar color of the flowers, for example, the English language translates as "blood lily".

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The spherical umbellate inflorescence can reach 25 cm in diameter and contain up to 200 cinnabar-red flowers with narrow petals and long stamens.

Each bulb forms one inflorescence per season. After pollination, berries up to 1 cm in diameter are tied, which turn red as they ripen. Large and thin leaves with a textured folded surface, relief veins and wavy edges grow simultaneously with the peduncle or form after flowering. The leaf petioles are tightly coiled and form a false stem, often spotted with reddish brown or dark purple.

Diversity

Typical Scadoxus multiflorus, which was previously considered as a subspecies (Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. multiflorus) or Hemanthus multiflorum (H. multiflorus), is a small plant from dry and sunny savannahs. The peduncle usually appears before the leaves grow back. The rest period is pronounced and long.

In addition, according to the modern classification, botanists distinguish two subspecies that differ in the structure of flowers, plant size and distribution area in nature.

Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. catharinae, formerly known as Hemanthus Katerina (N. katharinae), is the tallest representative of the species (up to 120 cm) with purple spots on the pseudostem. It blooms simultaneously with the formation of leaves, prefers partial shade. The rest period is short.

Scadoxus multiflorus subsp. longitubus formerly called Hemanthus long-tubular (N. longitubus) or Gemanthus Mann (N. mannii). Rarely found in culture, mainly in the collections of botanical gardens.

Known varieties of skadoxus with large inflorescences - "Konig Albert", "Andromeda" and "In Rainbows", obtained by crossing the multi-flowered sweetbite (ssp. katharinae) with pomegranate sweetbite (Scadoxus puniceus) and membranous sweetbite (Scadoxus membranaceus). Cul-tivar "Orange Wonder" is grown as a cut crop, its cut inflorescences remain decorative for up to two weeks.

Sweetbite - care

Skadoxus - photophilous plant, its optimum is from bright but diffused lighting to light partial shade. In direct sunlight, the leaves can get burned. For growing fit loose, permeable and well-drained substrate rich in organic matter, for example based on compost soil. During the flowering and growing season, regular top dressing with complex fertilizers is useful.

For the summer, it is advisable to take the plant out into the fresh air - to the loggia, to the balcony. During active growth, water moderately, in the heat - abundantly, but without waterlogging, which can cause rotting of the roots and bulbs.

In autumn, watering is reduced, after the above-ground part dries, the pot with the bulb is placed in a cool place (+ 10-15 degrees). During the dormant period (usually October-January), the soil is rarely and sparingly moistened.

Adult skadoxus are transplanted every 2-3 years after flowering, before growth begins, while the bulb is not completely buried.

Sweetbite breeding

The plant is propagated by daughter bulbs or grown from freshly harvested seeds. Seeds are cleaned of pulp, washed and slightly pressed into a loose substrate. Flowering seedlings will have to wait at least three years.

Mikhail MANYAKOV, head of the Club of Indoor Plant Lovers Inflorescence, Grodno

SPREKELIA: LANDING AND CARE

This plant is popular with flower growers due to its amazing flowers. exotic shape with exquisitely curved velvety petals (perianth segments), painted in a rich cinnabar red hue.

Genus Sprekelia (Sprekelia) from the Amaryllis family was previously considered monotypic, that is represented by a single species - the most beautiful Sprekelia (Sprekelia formosissima). Botanists have now added several new species to it, notably Sprekelia howardii, a more compact plant with narrow petals named after bulb expert Thad Howard, Sprekelia glauca with bluish leaves and some others that have not yet received distribution in culture.

Sprekelia - endemic to Mexico, was brought to Europe in the 16th century and got its name in honor of the mayor

Hamburg Spreckelsen (Johann Heinrich von Spreckelsen, 1691-1764), who cultivated it. This bulbous plant is sometimes called Aztec lily, Templar lily, Saint James lily, and Mexican amaryllis.

Features of the genus

Sprekelia flowers have a pronounced zygomorphism (one axis of symmetry), which is rare in Amaryllis. The top three segments are erect, with tips bent back, the other three are directed downwards. The flowers have a slight vanilla scent. Each peduncle is crowned with a single flower, however, large bulbs can form several peduncles at the same time (2-3). Sprekelia blooms in spring or early summer, in good conditions sometimes there is a second flowering in the fall. However, the plant does not always please with flowers every year. In case of violations of agricultural technology, it can “be capricious” and, instead of laying flower buds, grow into daughter bulbs.

Sprekelia: care

It must be borne in mind that sprekelia is light and thermophilic. For good development during the growing season, it needs high illumination with a proportion of direct sunlight and a temperature of + 20-25 degrees. For the summer, the plant can be taken out to the loggia or balcony. Watering in spring and summer should be moderate. Avoid getting moisture on the bulb, waterlogging the soil and standing water in the pan. Light drying between waterings is acceptable. Top dressing with complex mineral fertilizers once every two weeks.

Sprekel planting

Good drainage is one of mandatory conditions successful sprekel culture. The layer of pebbles, shards or expanded clay should be at least 3 cm. The pot should be selected taking into account the prospect of growth within three years, since sprekels sometimes painfully perceive damage to the roots during transplantation. The substrate is made up of soddy, humus, peat soil with the addition of baking powder (coarse-grained sand, perlite, vermiculite) to ensure good air exchange, since the root system reacts negatively to soil compaction. When planting, the bulb is deepened to half its height or a little more - the top must necessarily be above the surface of the substrate. Under the bottom it is useful to pour a layer of coarse sand.

rest period

Long and narrow leaves that appear during or immediately after flowering die off in the fall after the gradual cessation of watering. During the dormant period, which lasts until the end of winter, the bulbs are kept dry in pots, at a temperature of + 10-15 degrees. Watering is carefully resumed only after the appearance of the peduncle or the beginning of leaf growth.

More about sprekelia

The plant is usually propagated by daughter bulbs, which are separated during transplantation.

Of the diseases and pests, the greatest danger is stagonosporosis, or "red burn", a worm, a spider mite and a scale insect.

The majority of Sprekelia in cultivation is represented by the commercial clone Superba. The range also includes cultivars "Grandifiora" (flowers up to 15 cm), "Orient Red", "Peru", "High Priest" and others with flowers various shades red and pink tones. Breeders have bred hybrids with hippeastrum - hippeastrelia (Hippeastrelia) and gabranthus - sprekanthus (Sprekanthus).

Mikhail MANYAKOV, Head of the Indoor Plant Lovers Club Inflorescence

EUCOMIS: LANDING AND CARE

AT Western Europe, especially in Holland eukomis are very popular. They are ideal for planting in containers, pots and flowerpots as seasonal plants in well-lit rooms.

The name of this genus of bulbous from the Hyacinth family is translated from Greek as "beautiful tufts." It is not for nothing that flower growers call eukomis tufted lily and South African lily of the valley, and English name ananas-plant indicates a resemblance to a pineapple - a flower brush is crowned with a rosette of leaves (tuft).

The flowers do not open at the same time, creating a wave of flowering that runs through the inflorescence from the bottom up, which allows the plant to remain attractive for a long time. In nature, Eucomis grows in the foothills of South Africa, as well as in low-lying, marshy places. There are 16 species in the genus, all of them are decorative. found in culture eukomis autumn, two-color, wavy, dotted, etc.

I have been growing eucomis since 2004. First - autumn eucomis with yellow inflorescences and a pleasant smell of tomato brine (!), Later it acquired bulbs of a larger two-color eucomis with greenish-burgundy inflorescences.

Agricultural technology

I love these plants for the original long flowering, large juicy leaves, unpretentiousness in growing. The period from planting the bulb in a pot to the beginning of flowering is about two months. The plant is photophilous - south, southeast windows will do. I plant bulbs in late March-early April. Drainage is required in the pot (pebbles, expanded clay). The soil is a mixture of soddy soil, humus and sand (3:2:1) or ordinary garden soil mixed with sand (4:1).

It is better to take a large plastic pot for planting - the larger the volume, the more powerful the plant is formed. I tried to plant three bulbs in one wide pot, but the plants gave narrow, elongated leaves, small inflorescences. Watering - moderate in spring, plentiful in summer, but without stagnation of water in the pan. Water is better to take warm, settled. Transplant - every spring in fresh soil. Fertilizer for flowering plants can be used in spring and summer. I add "Agricola" (0.5 tablespoons per liter of water every 2 weeks). In summer, I often wipe the wide leaves with a damp sponge.

The plant is propagated by daughter bulbs, less often by seeds.

Seasons

Spring. I plant bulbs in which light sprouts are visible. I place the top at the level of the soil. First, a rosette of leaves emerges from the bulb. When the plant develops 6-8 leaves, the peduncle begins to emerge. Eucomis autumn flowers are whitish-yellow, which is why I call this species "pineapple candle". Eucomis bicolor flowers are original: greenish-white with burgundy edging and burgundy stamens. The leaves are speckled below, the peduncle is covered with burgundy spots. Indescribable beauty!

The flowering time of eukomis depends on the time of planting the bulbs. To prolong flowering, I plant them in several stages, from the end of March to the end of May. When planted early, the first flowers appear in late spring.

Summer. In extreme heat in open sunny places, the leaves immediately lose turgor. I moisturize abundantly, after the flowers wither, I gradually limit watering. I cut off the peduncle when it dries completely. I take the pots out into the garden and put them in a bright place, I rarely water them. In rainy summers, the leaves of plants exposed to the garden can be damaged by slugs. I stop watering in September.

Autumn winter. When the leaves dry, I take out the bulbs from the pots, bring them into the house and dry them. I do not remove dry roots. I store the bulbs in a box with sand in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator at a low positive temperature. I don't moisturize.

Marina SPITSINA. Penza

EUCROSIA: PLANTING AND CARE

A few years ago, when I accidentally saw a package with an unfamiliar plant in a store, I bought several bulbs. When I got home, I began to figure out how to grow it. It turned out that this is a bulbous bulb from the Amaryllis family, rare in indoor collections. Since I found very little information, I had to grow eucrosia by trial and error.

peruvian lily

In nature, there are 8 types of Eucrosia (Eucrosia). This unusual and rarest plant in our latitudes comes from South America, first found in Peru in 1817, hence the name "Peruvian lily". Widely found in Ecuador.

Like many representatives of amaryllis, eucrosia forms a bulb. In nature, during a drought, a plant has a dormant period, so when growing at home, you should try to create a similar regimen. The rooms contain mainly two-color eucrosia (Eucrosia bicolor).

The plant blooms in late spring-early summer. First, a thin long peduncle appears, and only after that the leaves. original flowers with long stamens, resting on slender stems, unfortunately, do not live long. In order to enjoy flowering every year in spring and summer, the plant should be carefully looked after.

Eucrosia care

In winter, eucrosia is dormant. At this time, I keep it in dry soil, in a cool place with a temperature of + 10-12 degrees. In the middle of spring, I transplant, separating the onion babies, and do not water until the top of the peduncle appears.

I plant eucrosia in purchased soil with the addition of sand, several bulbs in one pot. The plant loves bright sunlight, so it stands on my southern windows, but I shade it from direct sunlight so that there are no burns on the foliage. In the summer, during the period of active vegetation, I water as the soil dries out, I feed Fertika a couple of times a season. With the advent of autumn, watering is reduced. The leaves of Eucrosia gradually wither and soon she again goes to rest, until the next season.

Elena KUZNETSOVA, Penza

EUCHARIS: LANDING AND CARE

One of the first plants that appeared in my house about twenty years ago was eucharis. For me, this is not just a beautiful houseplant, but my mother's favorite flower, which she simply called a lily. When I learned its correct name, I was very pleased that it really turned out to be an Amazonian lily.

For a long time there were no problems with eucharis, it looked luxurious. A low but wide pot was filled with bulbs, huge glossy leaves on high petioles adorned the plant all year round, and in spring and autumn 3-5 flower arrows appeared with snow-white fragrant flowers. I didn’t disturb the lily with transplants, I didn’t abuse fertilizers (yes, they didn’t really exist then), but when flower arrows appeared, I watered

plant with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (as my mother did). After flowering, reduce watering, allowing the soil to dry well.

Rain is not for him

The trouble came, as always, unexpectedly. About eight years ago, in the summer, I took the plant out into the garden, under the rain. Our summer is hot, the rains are warm, why not the tropics? And after a couple of days I had to leave on a business trip, eucharis remained in the garden. When I returned home a week later, I saw that the plant did not look very healthy, the leaves were grafted, some turned yellow. During my absence, it rained, the pot was on a pallet, and the soil was too wet. I let the excess moisture drain, cut off the yellow leaves and brought the plant into the house. A little more time passed, but there was no improvement, the leaves continued to turn yellow. It was necessary to take emergency measures.

rescue measures

First of all, it was necessary to check the roots. I cut off the rest of the leaves and took out the contents of the pot. Almost all the bulbs were covered in soft gray spots with pink edges, and there were no roots. Of the nineteen bulbs, only one was clean.

Of course, now I would try to save the less affected bulbs, cut to a clean cloth, treated with a fungicide, dried and planted in separate pots. But then I hurried to separate the only healthy bulb, washed it, treated it with Maxim's solution and planted it in a small pot in fresh soil.

Happy end

I didn’t water for a week, and then very carefully moistened the soil. Approximately three months later, new leaf. A year later there were already three, and it took a transplant into a slightly larger stable pot. When transplanting, I saw that the bulb had grown, and the roots were clean and healthy. It took a few more years before the bulb gave birth and bloomed.

Eucharis now blooms twice a year, in April and October. It is not necessary to separate the children that have appeared. Amazon lily blooms profusely only in close company.

Valentina MIRONOVA, Bataysk, Rostov region Photo by Gennady KARCHEVSKY

PROBLEMS OF GROWING BULBS

Of course, each specific genus or species of bulbous plants has its own nuances in the content, as well as the difficulties that can be encountered. AT in general terms some of them can be considered on the example of hippeastrum.

1. Bulbous Plants Don't Bloom

Bulbous plants may not bloom for many reasons. For example, if they were not provided with a rest period (keeping at a low temperature with or without watering). The plant may lack heat, sun and nutrition, or it may be affected by diseases and pests.

Create comfortable conditions content, adjust care - light, warm, loose fertile soil, watering with warm water, regular top dressing with complex fertilizer with trace elements. To stimulate all life processes, including flowering, you can treat the leaves with Bud, Ovary, Krezatsin, Zircon, Do-motsvet, etc. preparations.

2. Lower leaves turn yellow

If the rest of the leaves are sluggish, then most likely the plant is flooded, which is dangerous by the appearance of various rots. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings and use only warm water. You can treat the plant with immunostimulants ("Epin", "Zircon") and for prevention with some kind of biofungicide, for example, "Albit".

If the leaves are elastic, then when they turn yellow, the plant should be examined for pests. And if the bulb is healthy, the conditions are correct, then the yellowed lower leaves, in the absence of young growing ones, may indicate that it is simply preparing for rest. In this case, reduce watering to a minimum and remove the plant in a cool place.

3. The flowers have turned pale and do not stay on the plant for long, burns are noticeable on the leaves

These signs indicate an excess

direct sunlight in combination with insufficient ventilation (for example, on the windowsills of sunny windows in poorly ventilated rooms). The plant should be removed in partial shade or shaded and provided with good aeration.

4. Black buds

This can occur when kept in conditions of low temperature and light and high humidity soil and air (for example, a damp cold veranda window in a private house). It is urgent to change the conditions to more comfortable, water in moderation and only with warm water. Can be treated with anti-stress drugs.

5. Slow development

A possible reason is the lack of nutrition last season. Bulbs need to be fed not only during the flowering period, but until the dormant period itself. If spotting is observed on the leaves simultaneously with the suspension of growth, the plant should be examined for the presence of diseases or pests.

6. The bulb does not start growing a month after planting

Most likely, she does not have enough strength to “wake up” - the bulb has critically weakened (too dried up) due to an improperly organized rest period - too long, dry, hot, etc. You can try to reanimate it - remove all dry scales and soak in a growth stimulator (Krezatsin, Zircon, Epin), then plant it again. If after 2-3 weeks you do not see the result, then the bulb is no longer viable.

Tatyana KUSHNIKOV A, plant protection specialist, Novosibirsk

DISEASES AND PESTS OF BULBS

Pests and diseases not only cause great harm to indoor plants, reducing their decorative qualities, but can often lead to their death.

Experienced flower growers know that with careful and proper care plants become not only more beautiful, but also more resistant to pests and diseases. First of all, specimens whose immunity is weakened are affected. adverse conditions content: incorrect watering regime (especially overflowing with cold water), non-compliance with the light regime (the plants either do not have enough light, or too hot sun burns tender leaves), poor soil and insufficient nutrition, dry air and drafts. Often we ourselves bring uninvited guests into the house with a new plant.

bulbous pests

Bulb houseplants are often harmed by mealybugs, spider and onion mites, scale insects and false shields, as well as "omnivorous" aphids, occasionally thrips and whiteflies. Amaryllis mealybug (Pseudococcus amaryllidis) - small (1-3 mm) insects with an oval or elongated body, clusters of which can be found in the lower part of the leaves and even under the scales.

Females are very fertile and are protected by a wax coating on the surface of the body. It reliably protects the insect from chemicals contact action. Males are smaller than females, have a pair of transparent wings, do not live long and do not feed in adulthood. The larvae of the first age ("tramps") are very mobile, quickly spreading over neighboring plants. Amaryllis mealybug harms only hippeastrums and amaryllis. Mealybug(seaside) (Pseudococcus maritimus), unlike amaryllis, does not damage the bulbs, forming colonies only at the base of the leaves. This pest is polyphagous and, in addition to bulbs, can be found on citrus fruits, cacti, coleus, and many other indoor plants. Outwardly and according to the development cycle, this pest is similar to the amaryllis mealybug.

worms they feed on the sap of plants, as a result of which the growth and development of the latter stops. With a strong defeat, the leaves die off, the plant may die. Scale insects (lat. Diaspididae). Common and dangerous pest indoor plants. Species vary in size and coloration. An attentive flower grower can find out about the defeat of the scale insect quite easily at the very beginning of the spread of the pest - a sticky liquid (pad) appears on the leaves, which these insects secrete. With a strong lesion, a sooty fungus settles on the pad, the leaves and peduncles turn yellow and dry prematurely.

Harm larvae and adult females. Adult insects are visible to the naked eye as brownish or greenish plaques about 2 mm in diameter, they are immobile. Larvae (tramps) are greenish or slightly pinkish, small, very mobile, quickly spread over the infected plant and all neighboring ones. Scale insects mainly affect zephyranthes, krinums, wallots, clivias and hymenocallis. False shields, or coccids (lat. Coccidae) differ from scale insects in that their shield or shell is devoid of a wax layer, more convex, is the dried skin of a dead female that protects eggs or larvae. They are located on peduncles, petioles and veins of leaves. The pest is most often found on clivia, amaryllis and hippeastrums.

The development of scale insects, false scale insects and mealybugs is facilitated by dry hot air, dust on leaves, heavy soil, insufficient nutrition and watering.

To fight worms and scale insects flower growers often try to use improvised means, for example, infusions of some plants, green and laundry soap. But all this is ineffective, because these insects are protected by a shield and do not even respond to contact pesticides. Against them, it is recommended to use systemic insecticides that act by getting into the juice of plants - "Aktara", "Biot-lin", "Iskra Zolotaya", "Commander", "Sonet +", "Bison", etc. These drugs are diluted according to instructions and spill them over the soil in the pot. If the insect infestation is severe, you can additionally spray the plants with a prepared solution - against stray larvae. The preparation "Doctor" (8 briquette arrows) is even easier to use - it is enough to deepen the briquette arrow into the soil at a distance of 2-3 cm from the plant stem and water well. The protective effect lasts for at least two months.

Onion mite (Rhizoglyphus echinopus) polyphagous and damages most bulbous plants, as well as plants with rhizomes, tubers and other succulent underground organs. Hippeastrum is most harmful. This is a soil mite about 1 mm in size, yellowish-white in color, translucent. Larvae and adults are harmful, which eat away the bottom of the bulbs, roots and scales - both during the growth period and during the dormant period during storage. Plants stop growing, leaves turn yellow and die, bulbs rot and do not hold well in the soil. Spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) well known to houseplant lovers. Of the bulbs, he prefers zephyranthes, wallot and hippeastrum.

When infected with a spider mite, white dots appear on the leaf surface, which eventually turn into yellowish spots. At the base of the leaves you can see a white thin cobweb. Leaves lose turgor, wither and die. Ticks are small (about 0.5 mm), translucent, yellowish-greenish. Dry indoor air and stressful situations contribute to the rapid spread of the pest.

Among the mites that harm indoor bulbs, you can sometimes find a red flat tick, or Greenhouse flatboat (Brevipalpus obovatus). This mite differs from the spider mite in its smaller size, red color and the fact that it does not form cobwebs. The main sign of damage to plants with fleshy leaves is a finely split surface of the upper part of the leaf blade. To combat ticks Apply acaricides or insect-acaricides. These are "Fitoverm", "Akarin", "Agravertin", "Kleshchevit", "Aktellik" (less preferable, since the 2nd class of danger to humans). New generation drugs have proven themselves well: Bankol, Oberon, Apollo (against eggs and larvae), Nissoran, Sunmite. They last longer on the surface of the leaves, have a longer protective period and a low (3-4) hazard class for humans. These drugs can be purchased mainly through online stores.

Also harm bulbous: aphids- small sedentary translucent insects that prefer shoots and buds; thrips- dark small mobile insects with a spindle-shaped body; whitefly- small winged insects with white waxy wings. These insects often get in the warm season from the street, and they like most indoor plants. Therefore, it is important to inspect your plants regularly and wash the leaves periodically. Well, if they “missed it”, and the pests multiply greatly, then the vast majority of systemic and contact insecticides work well against them. Only when buying, give preference to drugs that are safer for humans with a 3-4 hazard class. Glue colored traps can be used against whitefly and fungal mosquitoes, the larvae of which can damage the bulbs of weakened plants.

Bulb flowers: choose, grow, enjoy Petrovskaya Larisa Georgievna

Bulbous at room conditions and cut

Many bulbous plants besides garden plot can also be used for interior decoration. Gorgeous bright flowers will bring revival and a sense of celebration to the house, will delight you with their delicious flowering on gloomy autumn-winter days, when there is so little sunlight and warmth, will create comfort in any corner.

You can use bulbs in room conditions in different ways.

The most common is the forcing technique, which allows early-flowering garden bulb plants to bloom earlier than their usual period. Hyacinths, crocuses, ornithogalum, daffodils can be considered the most suitable for forcing at room conditions.

Tulips lend themselves to distillation worse. For this, it is best to purchase large, specially prepared bulbs.

When planting bulbs for distillation, various substrates are used. If you want to save the bulbs for future planting in the garden, then peat-based soil is best.

At the bottom of the container for planting, it is necessary to pour a layer of moist soil and place the bulbs in it. A pot with a diameter of 15 cm is suitable for planting 3 hyacinth bulbs or 6 daffodil bulbs, 6 tulip bulbs or 12 crocus bulbs. Bulbs are placed in such a way that they do not touch each other and the walls of the pot or container. Then add more soil, compacting it around the bulbs with your fingers. Their tops should be slightly above the soil layer, and at least 1 cm should remain from soil level to the edge of the pot or container. It is important to ensure that the soil is not too wet, but if necessary, moisten it slightly. The next stage of distillation is the storage of containers with bulbs in a dark and cool room. The temperature must not exceed +4 °C. You can place the pot or container in a black plastic bag and store it in your shed, cellar, or garage. In such conditions, the bulbs should be from 8 to 12 weeks. It is necessary to regularly check the condition of the soil in containers and the condition of the bulbs. The temperature should not be allowed to rise, since the shoots may appear ahead of schedule and the forcing in this case may be unsuccessful. When the shoots appear and reach a height of 2.5-4 cm, the pot or container must be transferred to a room with a temperature of up to +10 ° C.

Bulbs in pots

The first few days the amount of light should be minimal, then increase. This stimulates the active growth of leaves and the appearance of buds. The pot or container is transferred to the place intended for flowering only when the buds begin to color. The place should be chosen without drafts, with the maximum amount of light, but not in direct sun.

The temperature optimal for plants beginning to bloom is + 15 ... 18 ° C. In order for the plants to develop evenly, the pot must be rotated regularly and monitor the soil moisture. After flowering, only wilted flowers are removed from plants, leaving pedicels. Your further actions depend on how you intend to deal with these plants. If you want to save the bulbs for their further planting in the garden, then you need to provide them with regular watering until the leaves turn completely yellow and die. After that, the bulbs need to be removed from the container or pot, dried, remove the remnants of the earth and dead leaves. Store until autumn in a dry and cool place, and in autumn, in standard planting bulbous terms plant them in open ground.

Bulbous for distillation

In addition to forcing garden bulbous plants, they can be grown indoors in the usual way. To do this, the bulbs of any garden bulbous plant must be planted in a pot with peat-based soil. The tops of the bulbs should be completely covered with earth. After planting, pots or containers are left in the garden, and they are brought into the room when buds appear on the plants.

tulip buds

Place the pots in a cool and well-lit place (but not in direct sunlight) and wait for them to bloom. Such flowering pots You can decorate rooms, kitchen, living room.

Bulbous plants have long been a favorite material for making cut bouquets. Well-composed compositions will always be a decoration of your home, and you can grow bulbs for cutting in any corner of the garden plot, in flowerbeds, discounts, Alpine rollercoaster, in rockeries. Freshly cut flowers grown in your own garden will last much longer in the cut than purchased ones. It is important to know a few basic rules that will allow you to extend the life of cut plants. It is necessary to cut plants in the morning or in the evening, immediately lowering the cut into a container with tepid water. For cutting, it is better to choose plants at the very beginning of the blooming stage, when the bud is already well colored and is about to bloom. In plants with inflorescences, you can wait for the opening of one or two flowers, and the rest should be in well-colored buds. It is necessary to cut the flowers with a sharp knife, obliquely, quickly remove the lower leaves and put them in water as soon as possible. Then think over the composition and prepare the stems of the plants.

For early-flowering bulbs - tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocuses - two to three hours of keeping the stems in shallow water is enough. At the same time, the lower, unpainted part of the stem, which poorly absorbs water, is cut obliquely. This allows the plants to stand longer in the cut. Some early flowering bulbs release substances that shorten the life of other plants in the composition. Such plants must be kept overnight in a separate bucket of water and only then added to the composition.

Usually, cut flowers are simply placed in a vase or a jug of water, but more and more often they are used to make a bouquet or flower arrangement. special means mounts. The most common of them can be considered a floristic sponge. Many bulbous plants can be fixed in it, but tulips and daffodils, which do not absorb water well through a sponge, are best placed simply in water, adding a drug to extend the life of cut flowers.

For cutting and composing flower arrangements garden bulbous plants such as hyacinth, gladiolus, crocus, scylla, muscari, ixia, tulip, narcissus, hazel grouse, lily, freesia, ornithogalum, sparaxis, galanthus, crocosmia, allium are suitable.

Composition of early flowering bulbs

Bulb Plants When growing these plants, remember that the bulbs must be prepared in advance in order to bloom. regular bulbs will also bloom, but much later than prepared ones. This applies to hyacinth, tulips, daffodils, bulbous irises. Each

Bulbous and tuberous weeds Plants of this group are characterized by the presence of modified shoots that serve as organs vegetative propagation- bulbs. In the axils of the scales of the bulbs, small bulbs are formed. The little bulbs develop in turn

Bulbous Bulbous plants, which have been cultivated for thousands of years, have a sharp taste and a special smell, which is explained by the presence of sulfur-containing essential oils in them. Onions are of great nutritional importance both in their nutritional value and