How to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner. How to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner: step by step instructions, video

With the use of mortars, decorative and protective surfaces are created, walls are leveled. They are used on different grounds, and . Correct use universal technologies allows you to successfully solve various functional and aesthetic problems. This article talks about how to plaster walls with your own hands for a beginner. Videos, step-by-step instructions, comments and other materials will help you learn the nuances of professional techniques.

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What is plaster: we study general information

The purpose of applying this technique is to create a durable layer that eliminates irregularities and other defects in the original surface.

Homogeneous solid plaster provides good protection from wind and other adverse external influences. It performs full-fledged, improves economic performance during the operation of the property.

This is a suitable basis for pasting. In the process of work, they create high-quality external and internal corners, docking with and frames, floors and ceilings. On such surfaces, it will subsequently not be difficult to fix other parts without the formation of cracks.

This photo shows an example of a spectacular one. Unique appearance created on the basis of the techniques that are discussed in detail in this article.

Related article:

The composition and types of coatings, manufacturers, examples of the use of decorative mixtures, how to prepare it yourself, application instructions are in this material.

From the examples above, it is not difficult to understand the basic requirements for a suitable mixture:

• For reliable adhesion to various surfaces, it must have good, but not excessive adhesive characteristics. Otherwise, the composition will stick to the tools, which makes it difficult to accurately perform work operations.
• The appropriate consistency is determined in the same way. As a rule, they prefer to use a density similar to that of fatty sour cream.
• After hardening, it is desirable to obtain a surface that is resistant to mechanical stress. This will prevent damage from careless handling.
• Health safety is a must. Wall plaster is used inside residential premises, so maximum attention is paid to environmental cleanliness.
• Washable, color, antiseptic properties can be provided with appropriate additives. But in any case, the durability of the layer will come in handy. Its creation is associated with labor-intensive wet processes, so it will be beneficial for any owner to increase the interval between.

The listed criteria correspond to a mixture of sand, water,. It is supplemented with lime and gypsum to improve plasticity, adhesion to a certain surface. Below are popular "recipes". With their use, high-quality plaster walls will be created. Video tutorials along with written step-by-step instructions will help you figure it out on your own. important nuances technological processes.

What is the difference between plaster and putty: the correct use of building technologies

Not only the composition, but also the application features are similar. What is the difference is described in this part of the article. In either case, the main components are sand, cement and water. However, on large areas it is more convenient to work with relatively large fractions of fillers. Putty is used for sealing small cracks, joining elements from, other "delicate" operations. In this case, small components that form smooth surface.

The plaster is applied sequentially, in layers up to 10 mm. With a thickness of more than 30 mm, reinforcement is used. As noted above, this technology is capable of providing good insulation from external influences.

Such a tool is more often used for masonry,. However, it is also used for plastering walls. Stir with a trowel, collect and throw the solution onto the wall. With the help of the narrowed part, working operations are performed in the corners, gaps are closed.

The tapered trapezoid shape is well suited for accurately filling the joints with a mixture. In particular, such a tool is used when forming surfaces from sheets. It is also convenient for them to separate the old plaster, remove dirt from the cracks.

This tool is used to work with figured pilasters and other complex elements. The narrowed front part of the blade is well suited for dosed delivery and distribution of solution in hard-to-reach places, on curved surfaces.

This tool got its name from the name of a special technology. decorative finishes. walls are made using plastic mortars. Apply thin layers with careful alignment of the smallest irregularities. For high-quality and fairly fast reproduction of work operations, an ideally smooth large work surface is useful. Rounded corners of the trowel prevent scratches.

Note! Experienced craftsmen acquire identical blades of several sizes. Large ones are used for stirring and throwing, creating the first plaster coating. Compact tools are used to apply subsequent layers and perform “jewelry” work.

From this photo it is not difficult to understand the principle of working with the tool. It is moved based on beacons to form a flat surface.

This tool removes irregularities from the surface. The photo shows a grater with a replaceable blade.

Use specialized mechanical equipment

To perform certain operations, in addition to gloves, you will need a respirator. Other personal protective equipment. The list of necessary purchases is compiled after choosing a certain technology, taking into account the characteristics of the property, and other important factors.

How to prepare a mortar for wall plaster

• When plastering walls with your own hands using factory mixtures, use the manufacturer's official instructions.
• The created solution should be well fixed on a vertical surface.
• It is necessary to obtain such a consistency that there are no difficulties when smoothing the rule.
• Too dry mixture forms lumps and bumps. With excessive moisture concentration, the solution flows down.
• Be sure to specify the period for which the finished composition must be used in full. With insufficient qualifications, it is better to prepare not a large number of for the work cycle.

If not special instructions To create a solution, the following algorithm of actions is used:

• Prepare a container of the right size. A light plastic bucket is suitable, which is not damaged by a construction mixer, and is quickly cleaned of dirt. Unlike metal counterparts, it does not make loud sounds when in contact with metal working tools.
• First pour clean water. It is not necessary to boil it, but colored impurities and strong odors must be excluded.
• Dry ingredients fall asleep gradually, mixing thoroughly.
• When the lumps are eliminated, leave the solution for 3-4 minutes. Next, the viscosity is checked, water and other components are added in the correct proportions until the desired consistency is obtained.

Note! For standard cement-based formulations, wall plastering in one batch should be completed in 45-60 minutes. If there is gypsum in the composition, the work will have to be done twice as fast.

The most important stage of finishing work: preparing the walls for plastering

• The base for applying a new layer must be strong, so remove the old, other coatings.
• Check the condition of the walls. Upon detection, they close up cracks, install elements for strengthening the power frame.
• If dampness is detected, eliminate the source of its occurrence. Repair, install high quality.
• Next, it is necessary to prevent the walls from absorbing moisture from the plaster mortar. To do this, use depending on the material of the wall.
• Special formulations improve the adhesive properties of the surface. If mechanical processing is used for this, at the final stage, contaminants are removed from the working area.

How to plaster walls without beacons with your own hands: video and useful tips

This technology is used in basements, technical rooms, in attics and other facilities where it is not necessary to create an ideal surface.

A photo	How to level walls without beacons: step-by-step instruction with expert commentary
	If you do it right, you can achieve high quality with economical consumption building mix. It should be noted that such techniques are indispensable when working in cramped conditions, when it is necessary to plaster walls behind pipes and.
	Pre-clean the influx of the solution, close up large holes. The brick is old standard solution(wetting with water) will not work. Careful handling required.
	The design has corners. They will need to be covered with overlays made of plastic or metal.
	To create the first layer, do not apply sketching. Use sequential processing of small areas, rub small doses of the solution into the wall. It is at this stage that all the voids in the masonry can be filled. A wide spatula makes it easier to level the surface. When performing smooth movements, it is not difficult to notice and eliminate depressions and tubercles.
	Next, the rule checks the evenness of the wall section, mount the corners. Mark the places (recesses) where it is necessary to remove irregularities.
	Start applying the second layer. After fixing the plaster on the wall, the rule is again used to control the surface. They can also have an extra solution.
	After 30-40 minutes, a finishing layer is applied. At this stage, small doses of the solution are used, since in fact only corrective actions are needed. On a fairly flat surface, the consumption of material is small. It is especially important here that there are no lumps or foreign bodies in the mixture. In a real situation, the time is set taking into account the characteristics of a particular recipe.

At the final stage, after hardening, the top layer is treated with a grater. Experienced craftsmen remove small defects with a spatula. When plastering walls with your own hands without beacons, you can save consumables. But here you have to spend more effort and time to get good results. But in some cases, perfect quality is simply not needed.

Video of plastering siten without beacons using gypsum mortar:

What are the differences between do-it-yourself wall plastering on lighthouses: video with professional comments

A photo	Plastering walls using homemade beacons: step by step instructions
	After removing the old decorative and not enough durable coatings eliminate building defects. Next, a primer is applied with a paint roller.
	Mark the location of the beacons in such a way that when performing work operations, the rule is based on two reference lines at the same time.
	Marks are made at a distance of 5 cm from each edge of the instrument. If a 250 cm long rule is selected, the distance between the beacons should be 240 cm or slightly less.
	Holes are drilled according to the marked marks. Plastic dowels are hammered into them.
	Screw in self-tapping screws with wire rings. Similar operations are performed on the other side of the wall.
	To accurately set the desired level, use wooden pegs. The dimensions of these elements and the corresponding position of the string are chosen taking into account the position and geometric features of the wall.
	With the help of a bubble level control the vertical. If necessary, change the position of the strings. When suitable pegs are selected, the self-tapping screws are tightened to the stop for strong wire tension.
	Mix the solution in accordance with the manufacturer's official recommendations. This procedure does not require perfect condition. ready mix, but it is more convenient to work with high-quality consumables, no lumps.
	Using a plaster spatula, a solution is applied near the string. Remove excess parts from the surface of the stretched wire. After hardening, small irregularities are removed with a spatula from the surface of the created beacons.
	Start mixing the ingredients. Dry ingredients are poured into the water. Next, use a construction mixer. At this stage, a high-quality solution with a uniform structure and optimal density should be created.
	Throw in a mixture of trowels (trapezoidal trowel). For preliminary smoothing use a wide spatula.
	Next, the rule is applied. They pull the solution to the side. Lighthouses serve as longitudinal supports. Small movements up and down make this operation easier.
	Continue plastering the walls in the same way. After completing the treatment of the entire area, it is necessary to withstand 10-15 minutes until the top layer “grabs”. After that, small irregularities are removed with a grater, a wide spatula.

Watch this lighthouse plastering video for beginners:

Here it is shown how a high-quality flat surface is created using this technology. It can be painted and wallpapered without additional processing after drying.

In this video, do-it-yourself alignment of the wall along the lighthouses is done with preliminary reinforcement:

This technique can be used instead of creating special irregularities. The mesh will also provide increased resistance of the layer to mechanical stress.

Additional advice: setting beacons without errors

The drawing of the premises will help to accurately establish the lines for placing vertical beacons.

In the figure, the places of their installation are marked, taking into account the length of the rule. As with the strings, here you need to make the distance smaller than this leveling tool. It is necessary to leave a sufficient distance to the inner corners, other obstacles.

In this figure, the principle of constructing the field is clear. Instead of nails, it is more convenient to use self-tapping screws that are screwed to the desired depth. First, screws are installed at points 1 and 3. A cord is pulled between them and elements 7 and 8 are installed. Verticals (1-2; 3-6-4) and others are controlled using a plumb line. If necessary, change the position of the screws to obtain a clear line.

Diagram (1) shows installation using specialized fasteners. To check the surfaces, bubble (2) and laser (3) tools are used. A stretched string (4) sets the exact level of one line.

Proper selection and use of different materials

In the apartment, it will be possible to find out after a detailed acquaintance with the features of different recipes. It is quite convenient to work with ready-made building mixtures. They are sold dry, so subsequent dilution with water and mixing will be required. The main advantage is a carefully selected composition. The disadvantage is the relatively high cost. With the right choice of ingredients, you can create a professional-grade solution.

Features of do-it-yourself wall plastering with cement mortar: video and written instructions

The first layer of wall plaster is called "splatter". It is applied with a liquid solution in order to fill the smallest pores and cracks as evenly as possible. When setting occurs (but until completely dry) - apply a second, thicker one. It creates a rough surface. The mixture for the next layer is created from fine sand with the addition of lime. This will increase plasticity. The following table lists the technical parameters and quantities of ingredients. Knowing the proportions, you can change the parameters, taking into account the characteristics of a particular project.

The video shows an example of plastering walls with cement mortar on lighthouses:

How to plaster walls with gypsum plaster: video, important nuances

When using mixtures on this basis, rapid hardening must be taken into account. It should also be noted a slightly lower resistance to moisture without special additives. In this case, a denser structure without pores is obtained, which worsens the insulating characteristics. However, the surface is smooth. It should be noted the ease of application to different surfaces.

In the accompanying documentation for factory dry mixes indicate:

• Minimum and maximum layer thickness.
• The operating temperature to which the individual parameters correspond.
• Consumption per 1 sq. m.
• The amount of solution that is obtained from one package;
• Time:

1. maturation and life of the solution in an open container;
2. drying of a layer of a certain thickness;
3. set of nominal strength.

• Density and strength of the finished layer.
• Grain.
• Color and shelf life of plaster in its original packaging.

For internal works you can use homemade plaster with an increased setting time. Create two separate solutions from water and one/three parts of gypsum/lime, respectively. Then they are mixed, used for their intended purpose.

In this video, the master talks about leveling the walls gypsum plaster:

How to make finishing wall plaster with your own hands: video, the basics of quality work

For high-quality wall plastering, you need to create an ideal flat surface. At the same time, good adhesion is needed for reliable fixation of the finishing decorative coating. You can solve this problem using the following recipe:

• For 5 kg of gypsum take 15 kg of chalk (powder). The ingredients are mixed.
• Next, a solution (5%) of wood glue is added to the container.
• The required amount of liquid is determined experimentally by stirring the mixture to a homogeneous mass with the consistency of very thick sour cream.

Important! Without sufficient experience, it is better to work with a small amount of mortar, as it sets very quickly.

Lime is added to them if outdoor work is supposed to be performed. Similar solutions are used for other rooms with high humidity. Plastering brick walls is often preceded by the removal of the old coating. There are many irregularities in such surfaces, so you should count on a relatively large consumption of materials. When creating thick layers, mesh reinforcement is used.

How to plaster brick wall do-it-yourself indoors is described in this video:

Concrete walls: smooth, durable surfaces are not always good

When preparing such coatings, the joints between the plates are carefully sealed. Smooth factory products are characterized by low adhesion, so you will have to use a special tool (bush hammers, perforator nozzles) to create special damage. The necessary adhesion is provided with the use of primers, gypsum is added to the solution. These operations increase the cost of wall plastering. However, it should be noted high strength relevant building structures, no deformation during operation.

Preparation and quality plastering of wooden walls

Removing old plaster in this case is not difficult. For fixing mortar use a lattice structure of rails. Such a base does not provide high strength. The entire building is rapidly collapsing. The only inconvenience is a lot of dust.

Instead of rails, a chain-link net with a wire thickness of 2.5 mm or more is used. The surface freed from external layers is preliminarily cleaned. wooden details treated with drugs that protect against decay.

Note! Pay attention to fiberglass. This material provides the necessary reinforcement strength, but is not damaged by corrosion processes, like metal products.

With the help of this video, you can quickly figure out how to plaster houses with your own hands:

No matter how accurate theoretical knowledge, practical experience is required in this case. In order not to waste time and money on correcting deficiencies, it is better to practice in advance on small areas. Separate experiments are performed before plastering the walls with their own hands on new (complex in shape) surfaces.

Do not use instructions for the composition of building mixtures as immutable dogmas. Of course, there are certain general limitations. However, it is impossible to foresee the various conditions of humidity and temperature, the technical parameters of individual components. The skill of the performer and personal preferences for the consistency of the solution also matter.

Given the creative component, it makes sense to get more data on wall plastering. Use the comments to the article for communication, exchange of experience. Ask questions. This mechanism for obtaining information will help eliminate errors.

The sequence of repair and construction works must always be done in a particular order. In order to properly learn how to plaster walls with your own hands, you will need to know the five steps of this process.

So let's take a look at these 5 important sequences:

1. Preparatory work for plastering. This includes cleaning the surface (on which the plaster mass will be applied), by removing old plaster etc.
2. Preparation, dilution of the mass of plaster.
3. Applying plaster to walls.
4. Mashing.
5. Puttying.

Preparatory work

What is under paragraph 1 can be done by anyone, since this work does not require special knowledge.

You will need to remove old cracked plaster from the wall.

If this is a log wooden wall, then it will be necessary to align the shingles (glazing beads) there, which are nailed with small nails. Shingles are wooden slats with a thickness of 5-10 mm, a width of 15-20 mm, and a length along the height of the wall.

Reiki are nailed either vertically or diagonally cross to cross. The distance between them is 20 cm. All the plaster rests on them, so the surface of the lath mesh must be even.

In some places where the wooden lath fails, it is required to lay pieces of the lath until it is completely leveled.

If it is a concrete or brick wall, then there will also be some nuances. On a fairly smooth wall, you will have to make furrows, more often this is done with a chisel. The seams between the bricks make furrows from one to two centimeters (to facilitate the work, you can first moisten the wall with water).

According to the rules, a newly built wall is not recommended to be plastered, since fresh masonry will still sit down after a while and the dried plaster will crack.

On concrete and brick walls, where there are irregularities, so-called beacons are used, which are usually planted on vetonite.

The preparatory work also includes laying on the floor of polyethylene or cardboard close to the wall. Falling plaster on the floor is inevitable. Mixture that has fallen on a clean floor without debris can be used.

Breeding the mixture with your own hands

The proportions should be different for each type of plaster.

If lime-sand plaster is used, then the ratio of lime and sand is one to two. This mixture is used for working with concrete walls from the inside.

For stone walls, a plaster mortar is diluted, consisting of lime, sand and cement, the ratio of which is 1: 1: 4. For those who are not familiar with the ratio system, I suggest: in this case, 1:1:4 means that lime is taken, for example, one scoop.

For plaster wooden walls use a solution containing lime, sand and alabaster. Also, first, 1: 2, lime is mixed with sand. After that, alabaster is added to this mixture one to one or half to one with lime (or the same volume as lime, or half as much).

This mixture is suitable for walls where there is low humidity. Not suitable for plinth, cornice and in rooms where there will be high humidity.

Lime-gypsum mixture. This type of solution is stirred in a small portion, up to 5 liters.

This is due to the rapid solidification of gypsum. Suitable for stone, brick and wood walls.

The ratio of gypsum and lime is as follows: to 1 scoop of gypsum (already dissolved in water), from 2 to 5 of the same scoops of lime are added. In preparing the solution, the following conditions must be observed: first, water is mixed with gypsum. It is water with gypsum, not gypsum with water.

That is, first you need to pour water, and then pour gypsum powder and mix quickly. The mass should resemble sour cream in viscosity. Next, pour lime into this mass and mix thoroughly.

This solution will keep usable for up to 10 minutes. Therefore, at this time it is necessary to have time to put it on the wall.

The next type of plaster is a cement-lime mixture. The ratios of such solutions are from 2:2:12 to 2:4:18. That is, in proportion it will look like this: for 2 scoops of cement, from two to four scoops of lime and from 12 to 18 scoops of sand are used.

The method of preparing cement mortar is of two types:

1. First, lime is mixed in water, then cement is added to the lime mass, after which sand is added. The solution should be mixed well so that no lumps remain.
2. Mix cement in water. Then lime and sand.

Such a cement-lime mortar is used for plastering exterior walls, cornices, plinths and inside the building in places of high humidity.

Another type of mortar is cement-sand. Such a solution has good feature: it is very durable and at the same time elastic. The ratio of such a solution is from 1:1 to 1:3. That is, for one scoop of cement, from one to three scoops of sand are used.

And first you need to dry mix the cement with sand, then add water. This is done to prevent the formation of lumps. The proportions of the prepared solution depend on the brand of purchased cement. If cement M-400 is taken, then the ratio should be made one to four.

This solution is applied to the walls in separate parts where the humidity is exceeded.

You can bring the solution to the desired consistency as follows:

1. If the solution turned out to be liquid, then you can remove excess water by putting a dry ordinary brick there. It will absorb moisture, and the solution will be the desired consistency.
2. If, on the contrary, the solution is thick, then you can make it ready for use by adding a little water.

Starting to mix

Here in this procedure some skills are already required. The art of applying a plaster solution to a wall is the right thing to do. It is important to be able to apply the solution with a certain force and sharpness so that it sticks and does not splatter and fall.

Correctly applying plaster on a wall can only be done by plastering several hundred square meters and have enough experience.

And what about grout?

The grouting process is carried out a couple of hours after the main solution is applied to the wall surface, that is, it should already become hard, but not yet set.

This is very important, since starting the grout early can cause the base mortar layer to move out. If you are late, it will be very difficult to smear it.

For grouting, a special board with two handles measuring 20x120x1000 millimeters is used, it can also be used with one handle. It's called a polutorka. She needs to move in a circle. At the same time, the guide beacons will not allow you to cut off a large amount of mortar, the beacons are set strictly according to the level.

The thickness of the applied solution in one stage should not exceed three centimeters. Therefore, if a thick layer is important, then it must be made from several layers.

The break between each layer is up to two days.

On the walls of houses, that is, directly where they live, plaster is usually applied in several layers:

• the first layer is liquid, contains cement, is needed for bonding;
• the next layer (leveling) is thick, should smooth out all the errors;
• the third layer is decorative, up to five millimeters thick. For a decorative plaster solution, only fine-grained sand (sifted) is used, and cement without lumps and, if possible, colored. The second layer is rubbed with a grater, and the third decorative layer is rubbed with a grater. The grater is wooden canvas size 20x120x200 mm, has one handle. The working surface of the grater must be sheathed with felt.

Surface polishing process

Even the last decorative layer of plaster will not have a perfectly smooth surface. Therefore, the next step will be puttying, which will prevent the formation of dust on the wall. In a residential building, oil putty is applied with a spatula.

Putty is applied to the wall in a thin layer.

Putty walls should be a month after applying the main layer of plaster. It is better to putty the walls outside and in auxiliary rooms with an iron trowel. It would be more correct to iron these walls, as they say.

That is, with an iron trowel (trowel), a certain amount of dry cement is rubbed into a plastered surface pre-moistened with water. If you properly plaster the walls in this way, then the plaster will be glossy and pleasant to look at, moreover, moisture resistant. Ironing should be done immediately after the completion of the plastering work.

Conclusion on the topic

Having chosen the right mixture and with a little practice, you should be able to cope with the tasks. Good luck with the repair!

A useful video on how to properly plaster walls with cement mortar:

Plastering - restoration of the surface for subsequent finishing. At this stage, defects are repaired and the base is leveled. To perform plastering, you must have experience in carrying out this type of work. Hire a brigade professional craftsmen. However, restoration with a solution can be performed by a beginner. To do this, an amateur should familiarize himself with the videos “Learning to plaster walls: video tutorials”, as well as carefully study the recommendations below.

Before considering the question of how to learn how to plaster walls (video instructions will be given at the end of the article), you need to find out if you need to plaster the surface.

The use of the material is advisable if the surface has cracks, potholes, drops and other defects. In this case, the solution helps to get rid of the imperfections of the building base. However, professionals recommend using plaster even if there are no defects on the surface. The material protects the building base from the damaging effects of moisture and other negative impact environments.

What should be taken into account when restoring the foundation?

Fans who perform surface plastering with their own hands are advised to consider the following points:

• for the restoration of the building base, you should choose only high-quality material;
• before use, the mixture must be stored in a dry place;
• the solution must be prepared in strict accordance with the instructions.

The choice of mixture for plastering

Before you learn how to plaster, you need to understand how to choose a material for restoration.

According to the degree of readiness, there are:

• Ready compositions. Such materials do not need to be prepared. Means are used immediately after opening the package. The disadvantage is the high price.
• Dry mixes. Such a product needs to be prepared. After mixing, the solution is used within half an hour. Because of this, it is necessary to prepare the mixture in small portions and apply the material in several approaches. This is the main drawback of the product. The advantage of dry mixes over the finished material is an acceptable cost.

By appointment, the following types of material are distinguished:

• Ordinary composition. Designed for leveling surfaces and masking defects.
• Decorative. Used for top coat application. The material has an unusual texture, due to which it creates an original texture on the surface.

Material classification by composition:

• Sand-cement composition. This is budget stuff. The product is easy to apply, but you will need an industrial mixer or a drill with a mixer attachment to prepare it. Non-professional finishers are advised to work with this composition, as the product is affordable and easy to use.
• Gypsum composition. The material creates sound and heat insulation of the surface, does not shrink and does not crack after hardening. The disadvantage is that it absorbs moisture, so it cannot be used for the facade and in rooms with high humidity. The material can be used by non-professional finishers.
• acrylic material. The operational period of such coverage is 50 years. The product is recommended for use even for beginners.
• Silicone plaster. This is the finished material. The product is suitable for all types of surfaces. The product is easy to apply, does not shrink and has a long lasting operational period. However, beginners who are only thinking about how to learn how to plaster walls are not recommended to use such a tool. The product is expensive, so it is better to practice on another tool.
• silica composition. Differs in the increased durability and resistance to mechanical damages. The product contains liquid glass which makes it dry quickly. For this reason, the material is not recommended for beginners mastering plaster work.

Types of dry mix

Varieties of dry mix:

• Simple material. Surface differences after shrinkage of the product are 3 mm. The tool is recommended to be used for interior decoration, where aesthetics is unimportant. These include warehouses and garages.
• Improved composition. After shrinkage of the material, the surface differences are 2 mm. The material is used for finishing institutions - schools, administrations and other institutions.
• High quality blend. Surface differences after shrinkage of the product are 1 mm. The material is used for finishing houses and apartments.

Necessary materials and tools

How to learn to plaster walls, demonstrates the video tutorial, which is given below. However, before finishing, you should prepare necessary materials and tools:

• plaster;
• a clean plastic bucket for preparing the material;
• lighthouses;
• falcon;
• scraper;
• trowel and industrial grater;
• trowel;
• rule;
• Master OK;
• level;
• plumb.

Rules for plastering a building base

If you want to learn how to learn how to apply plaster, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with all the stages of finishing.

Room preparation

To prepare the room for the plastering of the walls, it is necessary to take out the interior items. If the floor covering does not change, then the floor is covered with a film and the material is fixed with boards, bricks or other cargo. It is also recommended to remove the lighting fixtures and cover the wires.

Surface preparation

Instructions for preparing the building base:

• dismantle the old coating;
• tap the walls to reveal unstable areas and get rid of them;
• increase surface defects, treat cracks and potholes with a primer and fill with repair mortar;
• clean the walls from dust and dirt.

Foundation priming

Priming is a mandatory step before applying plaster, which should not be neglected. The primer protects the building base from mold and fungus, and also improves the adhesion of the wall to the material. The primer is applied with a brush, roller or spray gun, as shown in the photo below. It is recommended to perform a double treatment of the walls with a break for drying the composition.

Profile mounting

Rules for placing beacons:

• step back from the floor and ceiling by 3 cm and 5 cm from the corners of the wall and screw in the screws at these points;
• a fishing line is tied to fasteners vertically and horizontally;
• under the vertical line small areas the solution is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from each other;
• a beacon is fixed on the composition;
• profiles are fixed along the entire perimeter of the wall with a step of less than 1.5 m.

Solution preparation

Only dry mixes need to be prepared. According to the instructions, the material is combined with water, the solution is kneaded using an industrial mixer or a drill with a mixer nozzle. The proportions of the dry mix and liquid are indicated on the packaging.

The density of the solution depends on which layer the material is being prepared for. For the first and third layers, a sour cream consistency material is prepared, and for the second, a pasty mass.

Application of the composition

The video in this article demonstrates how to properly apply the solution to the surface. This is done as follows:

• Use a trowel to spread the material onto the surface. This will be the first layer, which is called the splatter.
• With a wide spatula, apply a second layer of mortar - primer. The material must protrude beyond the profiles. Level the composition as a rule until the solution has hardened. Remove excess funds with a spatula.
• Apply a third layer of material. This will be a cover.

Completion of plastering

1. After applying the last layer, until the solution has hardened, dismantle the beacons.
2. Fill the voids with mortar and level the composition over the surface with a spatula.
3. Using an industrial trowel, grout the material. To do this, moisten the surface with water, press the tool against the wall and eliminate imperfections in a circular motion.
4. Apply a primer, wait for the product to dry and proceed to decorating.

In order for the finish to last for a long time, consider the recommendations of professionals:

• if the surface has a porous structure, then the primer is applied in two layers;
• if used for restoration gypsum material, then the grouting of the surface is carried out within 4 hours after the completion of the plastering;
• after applying the solution, the profiles must be dismantled;
• if ceramic tiles are laid after plastering, then the material does not need careful leveling and one layer of material application can be dispensed with;
• if the walls are being prepared for painting, then the paintwork material should be applied 14 days after the surface treatment with a gypsum composition and one month after the application of cement-sand plaster.

You can learn how to plaster in the video tutorial below.

Surface plastering is a finishing step that even a beginner can learn to perform. The main thing is to familiarize yourself with the rules for choosing and applying the material.

One of the main types of construction work, which is used to level the surface. Regardless of whether the walls are plastered from the inside or outside, the technology of work will be approximately the same.

Do-it-yourself plastering is quite possible even without the experience of such work, but it takes time, methodicality and adherence to technology if you want to get a result at the level of professional craftsmen.

Plastered walls - the basis for finishing: whether you will then paint the wall, stick wallpaper, tile or use decorative types of plaster - in any interior solution for final finishing you need a flat surface, which is obtained by plastering.

Types of plasters

Consider the better to plaster the walls. View plaster composition depends on the material of the wall and the purpose of the room, it is called by the main binder:

• Cement-sand plaster (TsPSh), despite the abundance of other compositions, remains the most popular, as it is universal. It is indispensable for rough finishing in rooms with wet and damp operating conditions - baths, saunas, laundries, bathrooms, showers and toilets. The solution is kneaded from 1 part cement and 2.5 ... 4 parts of sand, or ready-made dry building mixtures(CCS). TsPSh differs in low cost, convenience in work as long time of drying allows to correct flaws. Among the shortcomings, we can mention the laboriousness, the possible formation of cracks, and long drying.

• Lime plaster sets faster than TsPSH, can be applied on different surfaces. Prepared from 1 part of lime dough and 3 parts of sand. To strengthen the composition, PVA glue is added. Lime plaster is easy to apply and rub over, it is more plastic than cement plaster, but it can crumble as a result of mechanical damage. Also not expensive.
• The cement-lime composition sets faster and is more plastic than TsPSH, more resistant to mechanical damage than pure lime, and therefore is often used for interior decoration of apartments.
• Lime-gypsum composition is used for plastering living rooms, the solution is prepared from 1 part of dry gypsum, which is closed with water to the consistency of batter, and 3 parts of lime mortar. The advantage of the composition is a quick setting, it is also the biggest drawback, as it requires speed when working.

As a filler, pure river or sea sand with different grain fractions is used, for decorative compositions- crushed shell rock or marble chips, quartz sand.

According to the quality of the surface, the following types of plasters are distinguished:

• simple, consisting of two layers - a spray and a covering layer, with a total thickness of 10 mm, is carried out in non-residential premises and under tiling;
• improved is carried out in 3–4 layers - spray, primer and coating layers, total thickness 15–20 mm, most often used in residential and office premises;
• high-quality, made according to lighthouses, in 5 layers, 20–30 mm thick, for especially responsible interiors, last layer often applied decorative compositions.

For simple cement-sand plaster, in order to save money, thin-layer plasters from polymer compositions are also performed.

The process of applying plaster on the walls

In order for the plaster to adhere well to the wall, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work with high quality. All finishing work is carried out at positive temperatures (at least 12 ° C), in winter with the heating turned on.

Preparatory work

On the preparatory stage it is necessary to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwork, the type of plaster, the required amount of materials. Further, the purchase of materials, tools, necessary equipment, fixtures and workwear is carried out.

Materials:

• adhesive primer to improve the adhesion of the plaster layer to the base;
• ready-made CCC for mortar or components for mixing;
• putty - for painting and wallpaper;
• beacons for high-quality plaster - metal, plastic or drywall for making yourself;
• perforated corners for corners and slopes;
• cobweb mesh;
• sanding skin.

Tools:

• bush hammer for hammering irregularities on concrete;
• Master OK;
• trowel;
• falcon;
• trowel;
• rule;
• plumb line, cord;
• maklovitsa;
• building level.

Instrument name	View	Material	Purpose
rule		Lath length from 0.5 to 2 m from metal or wood	Checking the correct application of the solution and leveling the surface
Trowel		Metal or wood plate with handle	Throwing mortar on the wall
Falcon		Analogue of a trowel of a different size	Portion set of solution
Poluterok		Wooden or plastic plate	Smoothing the mixture on the surface
Grater		Wooden or metal plate with handle	Grouting a leveled surface, creating a relief
Scraper		Metal	Surface cleaning
Buchard		metal hammer	Roughening
Maklovitsa		Brush	Primer application
plumb line		Cord, cargo	Definition of vertical
Level		Metal	Definition of vertical and horizontal
square		Metal	Surface leveling
Corner Leveler		Metal, type of grater	Alignment of corners, varieties - for external and internal corners
Putty knife		Metal, plastic, rubber	Surface puttying, various sizes and varieties

Technique and fixtures:

• drill with nozzles;
• construction mixer;
• scaffolds for working at height;
• containers for solution and washing tools.

Overalls - goggles, gloves, overalls, shoes.

Surface cleaning

Cleaning old walls consists in cleaning the surface of all compositions - paint and plaster. Training new wall depends on the material (concrete, brick, gas silicate, wood). Cleaning is done mechanically or chemically.

Wash off the paint on the concrete surface with a special chemical solution large area, in individual construction, individual sections are cleaned with scrapers, then the surface is cleaned with brushes with metal teeth and dusted by blowing a vacuum cleaner or washing with water.

Wall preparation

The washed and dried surface is primed with an adhesive solution using or manually, with a brush. Moisturize the wall before spraying.

Surfaces that slightly absorb moisture - drywall, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB are dedusted and primed before plastering to increase adhesion.

Installation of beacons

Performing high-quality plaster is possible without, but it requires a stuffed, confident hand. If you do not have experience, then plastering on lighthouses will give the best result.

Lighthouses are used from galvanized metal, plastic or self-made from moisture-resistant drywall. Metal is durable, but can rust, and rust can seep to the surface, leaving red spots.

Plastic ones do not have this drawback, but they are made from expensive material, and therefore this is an expensive pleasure. An economical option is to cut strips of moisture-resistant drywall with an electric jigsaw to the required thickness of the plaster layer, but installing them is more difficult.

Finished beacons are mounted on self-tapping screws, checking the vertical and horizontal levels. is carried out from the left corner of the room, the first fastening is at a distance of 320 cm from the ceiling and the corner of the wall. The second set the beacon on opposite side walls, then pull the cords along the lower and upper faces of the lighthouse and install intermediate cords along them, in increments of 10–15 cm less than the length of the rule.

Solution preparation

Proper preparation of the solution is troublesome, to get the best result there are a few simple rules:

• for a better setting, a little PVA glue can be added to the cement-sand and lime mortar;
• for lime mortar, it is better to use lime dough, since slaking lime on your own is not safe;
• the binder is introduced into the solution in a thin stream with continuous stirring.

Stages of preparing a mixture for plaster

Various manufacturers produce dry mixes in bags different sizes, which eliminate the need for self-screening of sand, measuring out the binder and filler in the required proportion, for example, a rotband from Knauf.

splatter

Spray - the initial layer, obtained by throwing the solution with a trowel on the wall. The solution should lie flat. The wrapped edges of a portion of the spray indicate a lack of water in the solution, flowing down indicates an excess of moisture. Then the applied solution is spread over the surface with a grater.

Spraying is carried out with grabs up to 1 m high and wide, after 20-30 minutes the excess solution is removed by the rule, in zigzag movements based on beacons.

For thin-layer plasters and even surfaces with good adhesion (gas silicate, foam concrete), spraying is not required.

Priming

The primer is the second layer, applied in the same way, but with a layer of no more than 1.5 mm. After 2 hours, the surface is brought to perfect evenness with a trowel, then the wall is moistened with water and smoothed again with a trowel.

Nakryvka

Nakryvka - the finishing layer of plaster, for subsequent cladding or sheathing is not needed. The coating is applied with a layer of 1–2 mm, after the solution has set, the surface is rubbed with a falcon in a circular motion in a run, then vertically and horizontally.

Difficult to remove areas

The corners of the room and the ceiling require special attention. Sections of the walls along the boundaries of adjacent surfaces are plastered last, leveled with a trowel with a right angle or a special tool.

The wall behind the battery, if there is not enough space to work, can be puttied and leveled short rule for one pass.

After the plaster has matured for 3-4 weeks, depending on the composition used, the final coating is performed - wallpapering, painting, cladding or applying a decorative composition.

Plastering of external walls

Stucco has long been used to protect external walls from bad weather. For plastering external walls, solutions with different binders are used:

• cement;
• acrylic;
• silicone;
• silicate;
• lime.

Earlier popular compositions based on clay and lime, the advantage of which was the availability and low price, at present, they have practically ceased to be used due to fragility and instability to mechanical damage.

Work is carried out at positive temperatures, including in winter, manufacturers of finished compositions require temperatures above 5 ° C, in the absence of sun, strong wind and precipitation.

Types of facade plaster

There are many types of facade plaster:

• protective;
• adhesive compositions for insulation systems;
• decorative, which is structural, textured, terrazitic.

Formulations can be ready-to-use from dry mixes and building preparation, the latter are more difficult to prepare, and precise dosing of ingredients is required. Solutions can be tinted and not tinted, for subsequent painting with facade paints.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to work during internal plastering:

• calculation of the need for materials;
• purchase of materials, tools and fixtures;
• wall surface preparation.

We will not dwell on the first two points, they are described above.

Brick wall preparation

Prepare a brick wall: clean from mortar residue, dust and dirt, open the masonry seams for better adhesion to the new plaster layer, rinse and prime with adhesive primer.

Instead, jointing for better adhesion, you can fill a notch on the wall or fix a plaster mesh, which is desirable in case of poor masonry preservation.

If plastering of a new wall is provided, then bricklaying should be carried out in a wasteland. Before starting work, clean the wall from dust and dirt, mortar stains and oils, rinse and primer.

How is a concrete wall prepared?

The preparation of even concrete walls, especially factory panels, consists in notching recesses for better adhesion or installing a plaster mesh. Metal is attached to the wall with plates and anchors in checkerboard pattern with a step of 600x600 mm in width and height.

Substrate preparation for lightweight concrete

The laying of walls from cellular blocks - gas silicate, expanded clay, foam block or cinder block is brought out exactly according to the level, and therefore the surface of the walls from large-sized blocks turns out to be even and does not require thick-layer plaster for finishing.

Lightweight concrete is a porous material with excellent adhesion; before plastering, such walls are cleaned of dirt, mortar stains, oils and primed with adhesive primer.

Wood wall preparation

Before plastering, it is necessary to protect the walls from fire and pests, to perform a water-repellent impregnation of the wall with a special composition to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution.

Then the surface of the walls is protected with kraft paper or special membrane films, on top of which a plaster mesh is fixed with a stapler or wooden shingles crosswise at an angle of 45 °.

Methods for applying plaster

If thin-layer plastering is performed without the use of a plaster mesh, the work is done in one pass: the prepared mortar is applied to the wall with a trowel, leveled with a trowel and a rule, then we apply the required texture using a plastic trowel. The depth of the texture depends on the size of the sand grains and the force of pressure on the grater, the pattern of the texture depends on the direction of movement of the grater:

• bark beetle requires up and down movements;
• rain is received by movements at an angle;
• lamb give circular movements with a grater;
• performed using a special roller.

Thick-layer plasters are applied to the wall in the same way as for interior work.

Wall insulation with plaster systems

For fastening insulation boards made of polystyrene (expanded polystyrene), extruded polystyrene foam (styrofoam) or mineral plates use adhesive compositions based on cement with plasticizing additives.

Work order:

1. Insulation plates are attached to the prepared surface with a fixed starting profile using an adhesive composition.
2. After the mixture has hardened, the plates are additionally shot with dowel screws.
3. On the surface of the plates with a layer of 3–4 mm, the same adhesive composition, into which a reinforcing mesh is embedded with a spatula.
4. The wall is re-plastered.
5. Perform a finishing coating - decorative plaster or painting.

How to plaster slopes

The slopes have some expansion, the obtuse angles of the slopes are formed with a wooden lath of the required size or special beacons. To remove an even obtuse angle between the wall and the slope, it is better to use a special metal tool - a kind of falcon.

Painting

Both external and internal walls often painted with paint as a finishing touch. For outdoor work, frost-resistant paint is used that is resistant to UV radiation and bad weather with a durability of at least 10 years. For exterior finish it is undesirable to use bright colors and saturated shades of blue, since this pigment fades most quickly under sunlight.

Painting is carried out manually or mechanized - with an airbrush. Mechanized painting gives the best result - lie down more evenly, consumption is less.

Interior painting is done in the same way.

Approximate prices for plastering work

Prices for plaster work depend on the type and quality of the wall material, the composition of the mortar, the type of plaster, the method of application and the class of the performer.

Average prices in Moscow for plaster (in rubles / m2):

• layer up to 30 mm - 380;
• layer over 30 mm - 420;
• slopes in m / n - 440;
• decorative plaster - from 620;
• Venetian plaster (first layer) - from 1320, (second layer) - from 540.

Above this price, high-class specialists ask, prices below - should alert.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself plastering requires a steady hand, time and consistency. There is nothing supernatural in the work, but if you doubt your abilities, it is better to hire professionals.

Not every home master decides to plaster the walls because of the apparent complexity of the work. We hasten to reassure: special skills are needed to complete large amounts of work in a short time. Everyone is capable of mastering the basics of plastering with due care and patience.

Varieties of plaster coatings

Plaster itself rarely acts as a wall finish. The main purpose of its application is to level the surface both in the general plane and with the elimination of local defects, for example, seams and protrusions. brickwork. Following this principle, there are several types of plaster:

1. Rough wiping (spraying) is used to improve adhesion between the outer finishing and the bearing layer of the wall. In this way, surfaces are prepared for finishing, fixed on glue or cement mortar. A typical example is preparation for tiling.
2. A ground fill without smoothing is used as a special case of the previous type, when there is a need to level significant wall plane distortions or straighten the geometry of the room.
3. Fine plaster (coating) forms a perfectly flat surface with a minimum number of pores and defects. This method of rough finishing can be completed with wallpapering or puttying for painting.

In the general order, all three types of plastering work are carried out sequentially in the order given until the desired surface characteristics are obtained. There are also differences due to changes in the formulation of the plaster. Depending on the required characteristics of the finished surface, the plaster may have increased strength and hardness, hydrophobicity or low thermal conductivity. However, even with special requirements, the application technique does not differ from the basic one, only the composition of the solution changes.

Cement mortar for plaster

The material that is applied to the walls to create a plaster coating is ordinary sand concrete with a strength grade from M50 to M200. Since the plaster layer does not perform a direct bearing function, strength requirements are imposed to counteract external mechanical influences and tear off the plaster under its own weight.

In the classic version, the mortar for plastering is prepared from washed river or mountain sand with a grain size of no more than 1.2 mm for grouting and no more than 2.5 mm for splashing and the main leveling layer. The binder for the solution is Portland cement grade 200 or 300, for extra strong plaster - grade 400. The content of the cement binder cannot be less than 70 kg per 1 ton of dry sand, but it is usually added in a ratio of 1:5 - 1:8 to the filler. Of course, the higher the brand of cement, the lower its content in the mortar for plaster.

The second option for preparing a plaster mortar is with partial (from 40%) or complete replacement of the cement binder with hydrated lime or fluff. Lime milk must contain at least 30% lime by weight without unslaked inclusions. The main purpose of lime is to entrain air to reduce the density of the plaster. Accordingly, the consumption of the binder is reduced, and the plaster itself has a lower density and loads the load-bearing system of the building less.

Solutions are prepared for water based, the liquid content is normalized based on considerations of ensuring the required mobility of the mixture and its tendency to stratification. Water is added after mixing dry filler and binder, or by introducing completely dissolved cement into dry sand, followed by bringing the mixture to the desired consistency. The density of the solution for different layers of plaster is different: if the consistency of liquid sour cream is required for wiping the base, then the base layer is applied with a thicker paste, in which finger marks are not filled for at least 2-3 minutes.

What surfaces can be plastered

A wide range of substrates are suitable for plastering: masonry made of brick, cinder block or porous blocks, concrete grade not higher than M600, as well as prefabricated wooden structures. In general, the suitability of the substrate for plastering is determined by adhesion, which provides a sufficiently high pull-off load.

Surfaces made of heavy concrete are sanded before plastering to increase porosity and primed with deep penetration compounds that do not form a film. wood paneling sleepers or frame walls before applying the plaster, they are covered with shingles or steel plaster mesh to improve the quality of adhesion to the base.

The mesh can also be used to fasten the plaster layer itself. In this case, it is stuffed after the initial wiping before installing the beacons. Basically, mesh reinforcement is required for plaster thicknesses from 25 to 40 mm. An additional argument in favor of strengthening can be the high mobility of the base, for example, under adverse seismic conditions.

When and why are beacons needed?

Linear plaster beacons are necessary in cases where high requirements for flatness are imposed on the plaster surface. Beacons help to eliminate the formation of irregularities of more than 2 mm / m, in other cases, alignment with a tightening rail is sufficient.

Installation of lighthouses is carried out on small tubercles from ordinary plaster mortar with a small addition building plaster to speed up the setting. To install each beacon, a small portion of the solution is mixed, which is applied to the wall dotted along a vertical line with an indent of 50-70 cm. with the design plane of the wall.

The most convenient way to align is to bring the top of all beacons under a common lacing, align them vertically with a rack bubble level, and then align with the rest of the beacons with a long rule. The distance between the beacons must be such that, given the length of the rule, it rests in a horizontal position on at least two adjacent beacons. If, after installing all the beacons, local irregularities are noted, the strips can be easily torn off and then glued again with a new portion of the solution.

Spray base preparation

Primary spraying is carried out with a cement mortar of a liquid consistency. The mixture is rubbed on the wall with a layer about 2-3 mm thick, using a wide spatula or trowel. The remaining influxes can not be removed immediately, but wait for the preliminary setting of the composition.

The main purpose of plaster preparation is to fill all the pores and depressions on the surface of the substrate. Therefore, the plaster is first carefully and forcefully rubbed, scraping the base with a metal edge, and then the mixture is stretched in a more or less uniform layer. The latter is necessary to prevent the preparation surface from drying out before applying the next layer.

Wall painting technique

It is possible to carry out a leveling layer after 10-14 hours after wiping. For leveling without beacons with a layer of up to 10 mm, it is allowed to apply the solution to the wall with a spatula, float or trowel, that is, by simply spreading thin layers one after another with control over the rule rail. With a thicker layer, a plaster ladle is used.

The walls of the bucket have a special shape that provides easy slippage of the mixture when thrown. The movement should take place in an almost horizontal plane with a slight (up to 20º) inclination of the bucket towards the wall. In this case, the plaster is knocked into a tight lump and flies off the bucket with a slight toss up.

The collision of the mixture with the wall must occur with a sufficiently large force, so the throw is performed with smooth acceleration without swing and sharp braking. At the same time, at the moment of collision, the solution is tightly rammed and gets rid of air pores. The plaster is thrown onto the wall in sections of 1-1.5 m 2 so that the adhered clods protrude above the installation plane of the beacons of the order of 7-10 mm. After filling one section, the excess mixture is removed with the beveled part of the rule and mixed with fresh mortar. The protruding bumps are cut off by the pointed side of the rail quite simply, but at the same time, in addition to moving from the bottom up, the rule also makes longitudinal vibrations.

Grouting plaster

Drying of the base layer before grouting can be either complete or partial within 2-3 days. After the mixture has set, the beacons are pulled out, and the grooves formed are filled with the same solution that was used during the throw.

The resulting surface may have numerous defects, cracks and depressions, but the cut planes of the bumps form the basis for working with a polyurethane float of the appropriate size. The solution is first pressed into the recesses in small portions, and then rubbed over the surface in a circular motion without applying an additional layer. Due to the more liquid consistency of the wiping solution, it mixes with crumbling aggregate particles, so the plaster surface becomes durable and monolithic.

Drying and post-treatment

The plastered surfaces are ready for finishing after the full curing time: mortars on a cement binder dry within 28 days, on a lime binder - within 20 days. During the first half of the established period, the drying of the surface, accompanied by the formation of a web of cracks due to uneven hydration, should not be allowed. To eliminate such phenomena, high humidity is maintained in the room: containers with water are installed, and the plaster itself is periodically sprayed with water using a broom or hand sprayer.

The plaster may be treated with a deep penetration reinforcing primer before applying the finish. Before painting works it is also possible to rub with a gypsum putty of a rare consistency to fill the pores and reduce paint consumption.