Do-it-yourself embossed furniture board: technology, photo, video. How to properly glue a furniture board Gluing wooden boards with your own hands

Successful busy people need to have a hobby. This relieves stress and reduces the risk of heart attack. You can collect candy wrappers and coins, or you can do a serious craft. For example, glue a furniture board with your own hands. The process is not as complicated as it might seem, but it requires at least a minimum of proficiency in the tool.

Tools and materials for the manufacture of furniture panels

• Circular Saw.
• Milling machine.
• Drill.
• A hammer.
• Electric planer.
• Belt and surface grinders. You can sand the wood with an emery cloth by screwing it onto the block. True, it will take a little longer.
• Thicknesser.
• Clamps or homemade gadgets for tightening the boards.
• Long metal ruler, pencil, tape measure.
• Lumber.
• Plywood and thin strips to keep the board together.
• Glue.

Preparatory work

First, let's decide what size furniture board we need in order to stock up on enough material. In any case, the blanks must be longer and thicker than the final parameters of the shield. We choose the boards from wood of the same species, dry and even, with a minimum of knots. You also need to know basic properties wood. We offer a small carpenter's dictionary so as not to get confused in the concepts:

• Plates are the wide longitudinal sides of the boards.
• Plots - individual bars, planks cut from a wide board.
• Lamellas are solid, uncomplicated blanks. In fact, the same as the plots.
• Curliness is an irregular arrangement of wood fibers in the workpiece. Occurs when the board is cut from the butt of a tree.
• Sapwood is the outermost layer of wood just below the bark.

According to the advice of old masters, how to make a furniture board good quality, plots are taken with a width to thickness ratio of 3x1. Such a lamella is stable, since the internal tension of the wood is not enough to split the lath. We've all seen boards cracked from the end. This is the very case when the stress of the material caused by improper drying splits the workpiece. This means, first, we dissolve the lumber on slats no more than 15 cm wide. In the process of cutting, at the same time, we remove all defective sections of the boards.

Before assembling the shield, take into account that the wood shrinks in different directions when it shrinks. The strongest is in the direction of the annual rings (tangential direction), two times weaker - in the direction of the core lines (radial direction). We glue the sawn blanks in the order indicated in the very first photo:

Shields a and b: heartwood rallies to heartwood, sapwood to sapwood. This will avoid warping during shrinkage of the shield, which reduces the strength of the adhesive joints.

Shields c and d: we orient workpieces with a pronounced curl along the lines of the annual rings, then the deformation of the finished shield will be much less.

Step-by-step instructions for making a furniture board

Methods for connecting plots in a shield

How to make a furniture board with your own hands so that in the future the wood will retain its initial stability? There are several ways to cope with the warpage of the shield caused by the curliness of the lumber.

We glue the lamellas on the dowels (the bottom shield in photo 6) or use the finishing tips, following the example of the drawing board. To fix short boards, we use a tip with a groove-comb assembly (upper shield in the photo), flush connected to the lamellas. The tip can have a protrusion above one (middle shield) or both faces, depending on the purpose of the product.

If the furniture board is intended to be used in conditions of constant fluctuations in humidity, it will be more expedient not to glue the boards. Compensation of wood with frequent swelling is achieved different ways rallying plots. The upper shield in photo 7 is connected in a quarter, the middle one - in a quarter with chamfering from the upper edges. The boards of the lower shield are also rallied in a quarter, but already with a selection of profiled edges on the front side.

Another type of joining plots without the use of glue is the use of strip strips. The upper shield in photo 8 is tightened with a regular strip, the middle one - with a profiled strip without grooves, the lower one - with a profiled strip with grooves.

If the furniture board will be operated under constant mechanical load, under conditions high humidity and temperature differences, then the boards should have a more powerful pairing. Photo 9 shows examples of such compounds. The upper shield is assembled on dowels, the middle one - on a plywood rail. The width of the lath should be equal to the thickness of the plots, the thickness of the lath - one third of the thickness of the plots.

The example of the bottom panel shows a tongue-and-groove connection used for flooring or cladding partitions. All these methods can be used in the manufacture of collapsible panels (for example, for sliding furniture). No glue is used in these connections.

Gluing lamellas on dowels requires perfect precision in the location of the holes, otherwise the geometry of the shield will be disturbed. The nests are marked with markers. It is best to drill the ends using a drill stand and stop. The total depth of both holes must exceed the length of the fastener by 2-3 mm.

If there is no milling machine, the grooves and profiles at the ends are removed using a drill attached to the rack. An appropriate cutter is installed on the tool and high speed is turned on.

We saw off the assembled, dried and sanded board to the right sizes... Now you can put it into work - make furniture, doors, window sills, sheathe walls and ceilings. Durability, aesthetics, naturalness of furniture boards are best recommendations for building material.

Home / Woodworking / Wood gluing

Bonding wood and wood materials

Gluing wood is a common method of joining wood and wood-based materials (plywood, wood panels etc.) with adhesives.

How to make a kitchen out of furniture boards with your own hands

This allows you to receive products or models of various shapes and sizes, to increase their strength and stability, as well as to increase the use of short and low quality wood blanks.

There are the following bonding types: doskovyh binder or a square piece of wood layers on blocks and edges of sheets, adhesion of frame panels, gluing placement along the edges of plates or frame, splicing of the workpiece are wood whiskers or toothed gluing, gluing the tip of the corner, and other connections in the composition of the product and structures, surface cladding of wood and wood-based materials with decorative materials from thin sheet metal.

Linking like independent way connections with additional fasteners, screws, screws, nails.

Adhesion is that the liquid of the wood is supported on the adhesive layer and penetrates into its extracellular and intracellular space, cured (going from a liquid state to solid state) and thus holds the joint surfaces of the adhesive layer.

The bonding process consists of selection and preparation methods adhesive materials; selection, preparation and use of adhesives on adhesive surfaces; package design; squeeze and hold the bags under pressure until the glue hardens; technological aging of glued products and structures.

High quality dry (moisture 12 ± 3%) wood of the first and second class is used for the production of glued products and structures.

It is allowed to use lumber. It is better to glue less dense wood (pine, spruce, alder, trill), worse - thick (oak, autumn, maple, beech, birch).
Drying of lumber is carried out in drying chambers... Firstly, it is recommended to carry out atmospheric (natural) drying of wood in an air-dry state of wood (humidity 18-22%), then a chamber (artificial) to the required humidity.

The surface of softwood can be demineralized with resin solvents (turpentine, acetone, gasoline, etc.).

They are expensive, flammable and toxic. To remove wood used for coating, use 4-5% aqueous sodium hydroxide solution or 5-10% sodium salt solution. The solutions are heated to 50 ° C and applied to the surface with brushes or brushes. They form soluble soaps with resin, which are then easily washed with warm water or 2-3% sodium solution.

Glued workpieces must be processed by construction or by grinding their side surfaces in accordance with technical requirements.

Thickness (difference in thickness) of plugs in layers in blocks is ± 0.3 mm. Craft parts should not be noticeably swollen and their adhesive surfaces should be smooth and smooth, free from tar, oil, paint, dust and other contaminants.

For gluing wood for various purposes and operating conditions of various products and structural strength, water resistance and strength of adhesive joints, various liquid glue is used: casein karbamidofor - formaldehyde, phenol-formaldehyde and other rezorTsinoformaldegidnye.

Casein glue is used as aqueous solution(without heating) with a concentration of 40-50%.

It is a harmless, hard wood glue that is moderately water resistant but not spongy enough to cause darkening of the wood.

Synthetic thermosetting (irreversible) water-soluble urea-formaldehyde adducts are prepared on the basis of KF-G, KF-BZ, KF-MX resins; M-70 and others. They provide high strength and resistance to heat, high water resistance and absolute resistance to adhesive bonds.

They release free formaldehyde (a toxic substance), forming hard and brittle sticky seams, where great internal stresses can occur due to the contraction of the adhesive as it heals.

These stresses reduce the strength of the adhesive bonds and cause the glued products to stick together. The hardness of self-adhesive joints when machining with glued parts and products has a strong influence on cutting tools. Therefore, plasticizers (polyvinyl acetate dispersion, synthetic latex), PVA are introduced into urea formaldehyde adhesives.

Wood gluing is carried out in cold and hot modes.

Cold bonding (no heat) reduces energy costs, but it requires prolonged exposure of the laminated workpiece under pressure to cure the adhesive and equalize the moisture content of the wood, which results in low hardware capacity and requires large production areas.

Therefore, a hot joint (when heated) is often used.

At the same time, the curing of the adhesive is accelerated and increases the productivity of the equipment, fewer presses and less production space.

Carpentry tools repair

Spent axes (hammers, hammers, saws, airplanes, chisels, chisels), wooden elements the tool mark (square erunka, Mälk, thickness) is replaced with new ones. They are made of dry quality hardwood with a moisture content of no more than 12%.

Technological process for the manufacture of carpentry products

The process of manufacturing carpentry and joinery products and structures consists of working operations (certain types of work), which are divided into main (technological) and auxiliary ones.

When carrying out key operations (sawing, planing), carving, gluing, etc.) Change the shape, size and properties of the processed material or workpiece, and the resulting connection is a consistent element in finished products or structures in accordance with the request for technical documentation. Ancillary operations include accounting and sorting, sizing and quality control, stacking, moving through trade and other operations.

All work (main and auxiliary) is considered as a production process, and the cumulative and clear sequence of main (technological) operations is a technological process.

The mass flow of processed materials and empty parts is the product flow.

Distinguish between individual, serial and mass production of wood products. In individual production, products are produced in non large quantities, and serial production is carried out sequentially. Batch production can be small, medium and large. In mass production, products of the same type are produced continuously for a long time and in large quantities (furniture, joinery and building products).

Furniture board - building material made of high quality wood, which is used in the manufacturing process of furniture, floor covering, stairs, various subjects interior.

It is often used when working with interior decoration rooms.

DIY furniture board at home

Furniture board is made by deep processing of wood in accordance with GOST, following all generally accepted measures. There are two types of furniture boards, in the production of which the wood is dried until the moisture content is less than 8%:

- Solid - made using solid wood;

- Spliced ​​- made by combining and processing lamellas, which are obtained as a result of sawing or planing wood mass different breeds wood.

The use of spruce, pine, oak, birch, maple, larch, ash and many other types of wood in the manufacture of furniture boards indicates a decent choice of material, allowing the buyer to find perfect option based on personal needs. For example, oak shield is suitable for making high strength lifting frames, since oak is considered the material least susceptible to breakage when colliding with heavy objects.

Modern technology makes it possible to obtain a high-quality spliced ​​furniture board that is not inferior in strength and durability to a solid one. However, a shield made in this way is able to reduce production costs, which will further affect the cost of the finished product.

As for the use, wood panels are used in the process of making furniture of the most different types... The material is selected in such a way that its characteristics correspond to the intended direction of use of furniture and interior items. The cost, of course, will speak about the quality of the product. This means that the low price of the furniture board is justified by the presence of knots, resin pockets and minor mechanical defects. This kind of material is popular in the production of a product that is to be further processed.

It is also worth saying that the price of high quality shields is absolutely justified. Such material is distinguished by the absence of flaws and is used both for the production of a finished item and for facing various kinds of products and decorative components of the interior.

When choosing a furniture board, you need to rely on the following characteristics:

- view tree species;

- Correspondence of price and quality;

- the type of the shield itself (solid or spliced);

- material parameters.

It should be noted that the reputation of the manufacturer is also important when purchasing a product.

The furniture board has its advantages. One of its undoubted advantages is the fact that the use of such a shield in the manufacture of furniture leads to the production of high-quality, environmentally friendly and durable goods. Also, one cannot but recall the aesthetic appearance of the resulting furniture.

The furniture board production technique preserves the naturalness of wood, protecting the material from possible cracks and other deformation. Respectively appearance finished product is distinguished by its attractiveness.

When arranging an apartment, you have to answer thousands of questions, and one of the main ones sounds like this: how to choose a kitchen?

DIY furniture board - the subtleties and nuances of manufacturing

It is not only about the style and color of the furniture, but also about the material, texture, design features... This question is of particular relevance if the premises are different non-standard forms and size, and often find perfect kitchen it is simply impossible, and making it to order is an expensive pleasure.

In this case, there is optimal solution- make a kitchen from furniture boards with your own hands.

Why was this material chosen? Simply because wood has been and remains the most demanded raw material for furniture production, as it is practical, environmentally friendly and highly decorative. In addition, it is not required to work with furniture boards great experience and special skills.

Advantages of DIY furniture

• The ability to design a kitchen taking into account the dimensions and architectural features of the room.
• Gaining carpentry experience.
• Significant cost savings.

In addition, modeling and independent production of furniture is a pleasure both from the process itself and from the result, since you get truly exclusive high-quality products.

Stage 1.

Design

The first (and main) step towards building kitchen furniture is an project development... Remember the saying "measure seven times, cut once"?

This is exactly the case - at the design stage, you need to take into account all the details, think over all the little things.

It is important not only to decide on the number of tables, shelves, nightstands and other pieces of furniture, but also to detail each element of the kitchen interior, taking into account its shape, size, as well as future location and design features.

In addition, it is necessary to prepare a general design project that combines all interior items.

Blueprints kitchens made of furniture boards are the most important "documents" on the basis of which you can assemble beautiful and high-quality furniture with your own hands, so special attention should be paid to their development.

Stage 2.

Preparing materials

After careful design, raw materials should be purchased and prepared necessary tools... The main item on the shopping list is the furniture board, which is wood sheet consisting of glued lamellas.

One of best materials for the manufacture of furniture is considered larch wood- it is cheaper than cedar, beech and oak, but almost as good as them in practicality and decorativeness.

More budget material there will be a furniture board made of pine - it loses a little to larch in its strength qualities, but it is distinguished by rich colors and a beautiful natural pattern.

It should be added that you should buy a furniture board directly from the manufacturer, which guarantees an optimal price / quality ratio.

One of the leaders in the production and sale of wooden panels and other wood products is the Angara Plus company, which implements Construction Materials throughout Russia - http://angara-plus.ru/products/mebelnyy-shchit/.

In addition to the furniture board, you need to purchase:

• timber for assembling furniture frames;
• PVA glue for gluing parts;
• shelf material - glass, plywood or wood;
• sandpaper for grinding;
• accessories - hinges, handles, etc.;
• fasteners;
• finishing varnish.

Stage 3.

Do-it-yourself kitchen installation work from furniture boards is a laborious process that requires patience, accuracy and a lot of free time.

In order for the kitchen to be of high quality and beautiful, you need to adhere to several important rules:

• Strictly follow the design project.
• To ensure the rigidity of the furniture frames, cut the ends of the timber at an angle of 45 ° C and connect them with glue or metal corners.
• For the side and front panels of the furniture, use 25 mm thick wood panels, and for the rear panels, use 18 mm material.

A kitchen made of furniture boards is not just an opportunity to create exclusive furniture according to individual project, but also great chance significantly save when arranging an apartment.

building

In the owner's house, who is engaged in construction, repair and construction wooden houses, they often need wide wooden shields. These panels can be purchased from a retail outlet or manufactured by yourself. To put together a quality shield, you need to know some of the secrets of this job.

Purchase of source material

It is necessary to select high quality wood-based panels for the shield. The panels should have the same width and moisture content, even fibers along their entire length. Forms that are already showing signs of deformation should be discarded.
2. The texture of the texture should be the same and not completely different in color. When buying plates, it is advisable to choose them from one stock.
3. The moisture content in wood should not exceed 8-9% for hard species and for soft species - no more than 12-14%.
fourth

For shielding, a lumber texture structure should be used.

DIY furniture board gluing technology

You must choose radial or intermediate cut plates. Lumber should not be used because it is more prone to scratching.
5. Pay attention to the texture lines. If such lines are not parallel, this is an indication that the panels are susceptible to bending or twisting.
sixth

If you want to glue boards, you need to choose boards up to 120 mm wide. While this increases the number of adhesive seams, it reduces the chances of the final screen bending. Large boards have a lot of internal stress, which leads to scratches and cracking.
7. After the larch lumber is delivered to the workshop, they need to be given a few days to equip them with temperature and humidity.

The working process

1. Hold panels with a thickness of 2-3 mm.

If the screen has a right angle slit, additional tolerances of at least 50 mm are required and the screen width is at least 15 mm.
second

The layer of all shield plates is flattened.
3. On the machine, all panels are calibrated to required thickness.
4. Then, again on the planner, one edge is slanted strongly 90 degrees towards the panel.
fifth

The other edge is trimmed on a circular machine and the handlebar saw blades are also removed.
6. Prepare required amount clamps and a flat surface on which the screen will be protected.

The prepared plates should be immediately attached to the screen. Because delays can lead to the invasion of ready-made empty parts. If the width of the screen is large, it should be laid in several parts in stages. The width of these parts should not exceed the width working area machine so that it can be aligned after gluing.

And from the prepared and calibrated parts, the entire shield is glued together.

Before gluing the board, it is necessary to create smooth rods with the same thickness on which the prepared boards are laid. This ensures that the clamps can be attached to the clamped shield without obstruction.

Wrap the edges with glue, fix the clamps and fix them. The clamping force drives the adhesive that is extruded from the joints. It should form a stable roller. The installation of the terminals starts from the edge of the screen.

After the first installation and a little hold immediately on this edge, the fastening clamps are installed on all adhesive joints... This is necessary so that the panels do not move towards each other.

Then the next clamp is installed horizontally at a distance of 250-270 mm from the first and with opposite side screen.

At the same time, you should always check that the plates are in the same plane. They are offset if necessary. Install the rest of the clips that are exchanged between the top and bottom of the screen.

When you reach the second edge of the screen, use the clips (which are removed from the first edge) to attach the adhesive clips and install the rear horizontal clip.

After about five minutes, the vertical clips are removed to allow the adhesive to dry at these points.

Once the adhesive is pressed out of the joints slightly dry, remove it with a scraper or spatula.

After the end of the glue, the terminals are removed.

In place http://www.foresthouse.ru/- Forest house dedicated to timber and heating heater sales can also look at various materials on the topic of woodworking and wood construction.

This site contains a large number of unique articles that are useful for beginners and craftsmen who work in the construction of wooden suburban housing.

This article belongs to the expert on the woodworking industry Zelentsov Yuri Nikolaevich. Copying an article without written consent is prohibited.

10/21/2013 Artem Samoilov

Choosing a furniture board: properties and features of the material

Furniture boards are used for both residential and industrial premises- these designs are considered universal.

So, they can be used as a serious fence or decorative element of the interior. Before making a choice, decide on the possibilities of the room and the main goal - for what you are going to use the furniture boards page. To get started, pay attention to the following points.

What do you need to know?

Before choosing furniture boards, try to answer the following questions. So, you can find a common language with the seller, and also decide on the final choice.

1. What is the humidity level in the room where you are going to install the shield?
2. What kind of load, and in what form (assembled or collapsible) should an oak furniture panel withstand there?
3. What is more important to you: strength or appearance of the product?

If you want to determine the quality of a furniture board, pay attention to the structure of the wood.

We make an original kitchen with our own hands from furniture boards

Also, do not be lazy to study the markings on the product itself.

Remember that each of the criteria is especially important when choosing. For example, wood constantly absorbs excess moisture. Even if you purchased a lacquered product, the shield can change its shape or deform over time. In one year wooden structure absorbs up to 12% moisture from its own volume.

As a rule, high-quality shields are made from wooden blocks glued together and impregnated with a safe composition.

Do not forget that wood purifies the air and at the same time absorbs into itself harmful substances... Therefore, wooden panels are best used away from aggressive environments (for example, in residential areas).

Interestingly, furniture boards do not deform as quickly as natural wood, since there is no such tension in the structure itself as in a wooden array.

They can be modified and turned into very practical furniture. So, you can make a soft corner for the nursery, a bed for the bedroom or partially furnish the kitchen.

The disadvantages include the following points. Unscrupulous manufacturers often use wet blanks, so the shield is deformed even during the drying process.

In the best case, you will get a deformed product, and in the worst case, cracks and poor-quality seams.

Furniture items made today with my own hands are very popular. After all, it is in them that the master can embody all his original ideas, which will help to decorate and personalize the interior of the home. In this regard, the question arises of how to make.

A furniture board can be purchased at a hardware store, or you can do it yourself, while saving money.

Many people who have never glued boards believe that there is nothing complicated in this process and the technology of work is quite simple. But gluing shields is far from simple job, hiding in itself many features.

The quality of the furniture board is influenced not only by the material and its texture, but also by the skill of the master to combine the wood pattern, the precision of the joint and the quality of the glue.

Properly prepared shields have the following characteristics:

• preserve the natural texture and pattern of wood;
• do not shrink, deform or crack;
• are environmentally friendly material;
• regardless of the size of the blanks, the boards can have any required dimensions.

Selection and preparation of material

Having conceived to make any piece of furniture, you need to choose the right material. Usually, furniture boards are used in production, having a thickness of 2 cm (or 20 mm). This means that at home it is necessary to make blanks of a similar thickness. This is where the difficulties begin: boards with a total thickness of 20 mm are not suitable for gluing the shield. Even the most ideal wood will require additional processing during gluing. It will need to be planed or sanded. Therefore, the boards must be taken with a margin.

The best option for making a furniture board is boards with a thickness of 2.5 cm. An allowance of 0.5 cm is removed in 2 steps: when processing surface defects before gluing and when finishing after it. Thus, the workpiece is brought to a thickness of 2 cm.

When choosing a material, you should immediately abandon warped or uneven wood. It is better to cut blanks from solid board at least 5 cm thick: by sawing it lengthwise into 2 parts, you will get boards with the same color and texture. You also need to pay attention to the length of the workpieces. It should have a margin of 2 to 5 cm, which will allow high-quality processing of the end cuts of the glued panels.

To make the material with your own hands at home, you need to prepare the usual carpentry tools:

Machine device for gluing blanks.

• planer or jointer;
• surface grinders and belt grinders;
• coarse sandpaper;
• level;
• corner;
• machine for gluing blanks.

You will also need to prepare the wood from which the bars will be cut. Better if these are wood species such as pine, aspen, birch or oak. Each furniture board is made from bars of the same species. Usually, the dimensions of the bars have a width to thickness ratio of 1: 1, but other dimensions can be used, for example, 1: 3.

Back to the table of contents

Algorithm and manufacturing rules

After the material is prepared, its surface must be carefully sanded, and then the wood must be cut into pieces of the required size. Slices should be made strictly at an angle of 90 degrees. If any defects or irregularities are formed, the shield will not work. In some cases, small distortions can be eliminated using a planer or jointer.

Back to the table of contents

Combining elements

An extremely crucial stage is the combination of blanks in color, texture and pattern. There is no need to rush here, it is necessary to select the bars as accurately as possible to each other. Correctly glued backboard should be of the same color, with a continuous pattern across the entire width. If parallel lines of the pattern run along one edge of the workpiece, they should also run along the other edge of the product.

In the case when the bars are glued together incorrectly, the inverted shield looks like a fence made of separate boards. To prevent this from happening, you must try to choose wood for a product with a straight, and not curved or oval arrangement of fibers. In addition, close attention is required to be paid to the orientation of the growth rings on wood cuts. They are arranged according to two basic principles:

Each wood has its own shade, so it is very important to choose the right color for each shield.

• plots (boards from which the furniture board is made) alternate in the direction of the rings;
• plots are glued in such a way that all rings look in one direction.

In the first case, the surface of the shield after manufacturing has a slightly wavy pattern, reminiscent of numerous deflections. In the second method, the drawing resembles one large deflection. This manufacturing method can be used when working with hard and stable types of wood, such as cherries.

The orientation of the annual rings should also be taken into account in the manufacture of furniture for various purposes. So, when assembling countertops that experience light loads and almost do not warp, this factor may not have crucial... And in the manufacture door leaves or massive tables that do not have reinforcing elements, preference should be given to the assembly by alternating rings on the bars.

After all the elements are matched to each other, they are marked with triangles. This allows the blocks to be folded during gluing the way you intended.

There is often a need for wide wooden boards. Such shields can be bought in a retail network or made by yourself. In order to glue a high-quality shield yourself, you need to know some of the secrets of such work.

Procurement of source material

1. It is necessary to select high-quality sawn timber for the shield. Boards should be of the same width and moisture content, have even fibers along the entire length. Workpieces already showing signs of warpage should be discarded.
2. The texture pattern should be similar and not very different in color. When buying boards, it is advisable to choose them from one pile.
3. The moisture content of wood should not exceed 8-9% for hard species, and for soft - no more than 12-14%.
4. The texture of the lumber must be suitable for gluing into the backboard. You should choose boards of a radial or intermediate cut. It is not advisable to use tangential sawn timber, as they are more prone to warping.
5. Pay attention to the lines of the texture pattern. If such lines are not parallel, then this is a sign that the boards are prone to bending or twisting.
6. For gluing boards, you should choose boards up to 120 mm wide. Although this increases the number of glue lines, it reduces the likelihood of warpage of the finished board. IN wide boards higher internal stresses, which further leads to warping and cracking.
7. After the larch sawn timber is brought to the workshop, they need to be given several days for the temperature and humidity to equalize.

Operating procedure

1. Sharpen the boards, leaving a thickness allowance of 2-3 mm. If the board is to be cut at right angles, additional tolerances are required for the length of at least 50 mm and for the width of the board at least 15 mm.
2. On the planer one face of all the boards for the backboard is leveled.
3. On a thicknessing machine, all boards are calibrated to the required thickness.
4. Then again on the planer one edge is aligned strictly at 90 degrees to the board face.
5. On the circular machine, the second edge is cut, and the saw marks are removed on the planer.
6. Prepare the required number of clamps and a flat surface on which the shield will be glued.

Prepared boards must be glued immediately into the board. Since the delay can lead to warping of the prepared workpieces. If the width of the shield is large, then it must be glued from several parts in stages. The width of such parts should not exceed the width of the working area of ​​the thicknessing machine, so that after gluing they can be leveled in height. And already from the prepared and calibrated parts, the entire shield is glued.

Before gluing the board, it is necessary to prepare even bars of the same thickness, on which the prepared boards are placed. This will provide an opportunity to freely fix the clamps on the board to be glued.

Having smeared the edges with glue, set the clamps and clamp them. The clamping force is controlled by the glue squeezed out of the joints. It should form a uniform bead. The installation of the clamps is started from the edge of the shield. Having installed the first one, and slightly squeezing it, immediately set at this edge quick-clamping clamps on all adhesive joints. This is necessary so that the boards do not move relative to each other.

Then the next clamp is placed horizontally at a distance of 250-270 mm from the first and on the opposite side of the shield. At the same time, you need to control all the time that the boards are in the same plane. If necessary, they are leveled. Install the rest of the clamps, alternating on the upper and lower sides of the shield.

Having reached the second edge of the shield, using quick-clamping clamps (which are removed from the first edge), fix the glue joints and install the last horizontal clamp.

After about five minutes, the vertical quick-clamping clamps are removed so that the glue in these places can dry.

As soon as the glue squeezed out of the joints dries slightly, it is removed with a scraper or spatula.

The clamps are removed after the glue has set completely.

Online http://www.foresthouse.ru/- "Lesnoy Dom" dedicated to woodworking products and the sale of mezhventsovy heaters, you can additionally look at various materials on the topic of wood processing and the construction of log cabins from wood. This site contains a significant number of unique articles useful, both for a beginner and for craftsmen working in the field of wooden suburban housing construction.

This article belongs to an expert in the field of woodworking industry Zelentsov Yuri Nikolaevich. Copying an article without written consent is prohibited.

Successful busy people need to have a hobby. This relieves stress and reduces the risk of heart attack. You can collect candy wrappers and coins, or you can do a serious craft. For example, glue a furniture board with your own hands. The process is not as complicated as it might seem, but it requires at least a minimum of proficiency in the tool.

Tools and materials for the manufacture of furniture panels

• Circular Saw.
• Milling machine.
• Drill.
• A hammer.
• Electric planer.
• Belt and surface grinders. You can sand the wood with an emery cloth by screwing it onto the block. True, it will take a little longer.
• Thicknesser.
• Clamps or self-made devices for pulling boards together.
• Long metal ruler, pencil, tape measure.
• Lumber.
• Plywood and thin strips to keep the board together.
• Glue.

Preparatory work

First, let's decide what size furniture board we need in order to stock up on enough material. In any case, the blanks must be longer and thicker than the final parameters of the shield. We choose the boards from wood of the same species, dry and even, with a minimum of knots. It is also necessary to know the basic properties of wood. We offer a small carpenter's dictionary so as not to get confused in the concepts:

• Plates are the wide longitudinal sides of the boards.
• Plots - individual bars, planks cut from a wide board.
• Lamellas are solid, uncomplicated blanks. In fact, the same as the plots.
• Curliness is an irregular arrangement of wood fibers in the workpiece. Occurs when the board is cut from the butt of a tree.
• Sapwood is the outermost layer of wood just below the bark.

According to the advice of old masters, how to make a good quality furniture board, plots are taken with a width-to-thickness ratio of 3x1. Such a lamella is stable, since the internal tension of the wood is not enough to split the lath. We've all seen boards cracked from the end. This is the very case when the stress of the material caused by improper drying splits the workpiece. This means, first, we dissolve the lumber on slats no more than 15 cm wide. In the process of cutting, at the same time, we remove all defective sections of the boards.

Before assembling the shield, take into account that the wood shrinks in different directions when it shrinks. The strongest is in the direction of the annual rings (tangential direction), two times weaker - in the direction of the core lines (radial direction). We glue the sawn blanks in the order indicated in the very first photo:

Shields a and b: heartwood rallies to heartwood, sapwood to sapwood. This will avoid warping during shrinkage of the shield, which reduces the strength of the adhesive joints.

Shields c and d: we orient workpieces with a pronounced curl along the lines of the annual rings, then the deformation of the finished shield will be much less.

Step-by-step instructions for making a furniture board

Methods for connecting plots in a shield

How to make a furniture board with your own hands so that in the future the wood will retain its initial stability? There are several ways to cope with the warpage of the shield caused by the curliness of the lumber.

We glue the lamellas on the dowels (the bottom shield in photo 6) or use the finishing tips, following the example of the drawing board. To fix short boards, we use a tip with a groove-comb assembly (upper shield in the photo), flush connected to the lamellas. The tip can have a protrusion above one (middle shield) or both faces, depending on the purpose of the product.

If the furniture board is intended to be used in conditions of constant fluctuations in humidity, it will be more expedient not to glue the boards. Compensation of wood in case of frequent swelling is achieved by various methods of consolidating the plots. The upper shield in photo 7 is connected in a quarter, the middle one - in a quarter with chamfering from the upper edges. The boards of the lower shield are also rallied in a quarter, but already with a selection of profiled edges on the front side.

Another type of joining plots without the use of glue is the use of strip strips. The upper shield in photo 8 is tightened with a regular strip, the middle one - with a profiled strip without grooves, the lower one - with a profiled strip with grooves.

If the furniture board will be operated under constant mechanical load, in conditions of high humidity and temperature drops, then the boards should have a more powerful pairing. Photo 9 shows examples of such compounds. The upper shield is assembled on dowels, the middle one - on a plywood rail. The width of the lath should be equal to the thickness of the plots, the thickness of the lath - one third of the thickness of the plots.

The example of the bottom panel shows a tongue-and-groove connection used for flooring or cladding partitions. All these methods can be used in the manufacture of collapsible panels (for example, for sliding furniture). No glue is used in these connections.

Gluing lamellas on dowels requires perfect precision in the location of the holes, otherwise the geometry of the shield will be disturbed. The nests are marked with markers. It is best to drill the ends using a drill stand and stop. The total depth of both holes must exceed the length of the fastener by 2-3 mm.

If there is no milling machine, the grooves and profiles at the ends are removed using a drill attached to the rack. An appropriate cutter is installed on the tool and high speed is turned on.

We saw off the assembled, dried and sanded board to the required size. Now you can put it into work - make furniture, doors, window sills, sheathe walls and ceilings. Durability, aesthetics, naturalness of furniture boards are the best recommendations for a building material.

The gluing of furniture boards is carried out not only in industrial scale... This technology is used by home craftsmen to make furniture that is not inferior in strength to structures made of solid oak. Worktops made of spliced ​​lamellas serve for a very long time, do not warp, deform and do not swell from moisture. Another reason for splicing is the presence of small bars, which are unwise to throw away, but there is nowhere to apply. The best option- gluing lamellas into furniture boards.

DIY furniture made from natural and environmentally friendly materials is appreciated and used high demand... This construction material is more attractive and practical than MDF and chipboard.

How to glue a furniture board at home. Preparation for work

To get an aesthetic and high-quality material, sort the bars according to the following criteria:

• absence of knots and cracks on the surface;
• correct geometry (slight curvature can be leveled with a plane);
• matching texture pattern and shade;
• breed identity - pine is glued to pine, larch to larch.

Photo 1. Woodworking shop "LesoBirzha"

Furniture board gluing technology

How to glue a furniture board? The answer to this question depends on the scale of home production. If the work is planned one-time for your own needs, you can use the improvised tool available to each owner.

If you want to organize small business for the manufacture of furniture, you will have to acquire several machines:

• planing;
• grinding belt;
• surface grinding;
• band saw;
• milling.

Please note that the dimensions of the finished product are slightly smaller than the blanks. Allow for finishing allowances. The width of the spliced ​​lamellas should be no more than 15 cm. Only with such dimensions it is possible to achieve the absence of internal tension in the wood.

Photo 2. Spliced ​​larch board

For furniture, the optimum panel thickness is 20 mm. However, according to the rules for gluing furniture boards, you need to choose blanks with a thickness of 25 mm. Extra 5 mm are removed in 2 steps. Even before the splicing, 3 mm are removed, the remaining 2 mm are removed during the final processing.

What glue to glue furniture boards

Basically, furniture boards are glued with D-1 glue. This adhesive is produced with varying degrees of water resistance.

There are several water resistance groups in the international classification, the domestic industry uses four:

• low;
• two middle ones - A and B;
• high.

However, any wood glue will do at home. If you do not want to use PVA, take the Joiner adhesive.

Photo 3. Thin pine furniture board

How to properly glue a furniture board. Lamella arrangement options

Long lamellas are spliced ​​only in width. If you are working with small blocks, their location should be carried out in checkerboard... In this case, both long and short end parts are lubricated with glue.

With two-layer gluing, the bars of the first row are perpendicular to the bars of the second row. Such shields are particularly strong and durable. Still raw workpieces are placed under a press, where they should be until the glue is completely dry. This is followed by a thorough grinding on special equipment and chamfering on milling machine... After finishing the joints disappear, the boards are ready to be cut into pieces.

Photo 4. Larch furniture board

How to glue two furniture boards together

The need to connect two panels into one arises in the manufacture of products of non-standard width. 600 mm is the maximum standard for sheets, so you will not find larger widths in all online stores. How to glue furniture boards in order to get one wide one out of two narrow boards? Clients often ask this question to the technologists of the LesoBirzha company.

Photo 5. Pine furniture board for furniture production

You can connect two plates using grooves and a mortise strip. In the contacting ends, it is necessary to cut longitudinal grooves with a narrow cutter and place a strip greased with glue there. The ends of the panels also need to be smeared thickly. adhesive composition... There are several effective ways gluing wood panels. However, a professional carpenter will do the job best.