The simplest drainage in the garden

For the first time, a system for collecting and removing water from land plots was created back in Ancient Babylon, and, despite the fact that technology has advanced significantly after millennia, today the drainage of the site is carried out according to the same principle.

The need for drainage of the site arises in the area where groundwater is close and a significant amount of precipitation falls. In order to avoid washing out and waterlogging of the soil, as well as washing away foundations and flooding basements, you should correctly approach the organization of the drainage system.

The vast majority of garden plots need a summer drainage system that will drain water from the roof of the house and quickly drain the area after rain or during spring snowmelt. As a rule, such a simple drainage of a summer cottage garden plot is done by the gardener with his own hands.

According to their execution, the drainages are divided into open and closed. Open drainage is called because the drainage of the site is carried out using open drainage ditches. A closed drainage device is also possible, in which the drainage system is buried underground.

In rainy summers and autumns, the problem of drainage for fruit trees becomes especially relevant. It is needed by both the apple tree and the pear, and even more so by the stone fruit crops.

But the occurrence of groundwater close to the surface has a particularly strong negative effect on the development of fruit, berry and horticultural crops, since with excessive soil moisture, the root system dies off, and the growth of young roots is inhibited. In such areas, the vegetation of fruit trees is also very delayed, and as a result of this, their winter hardiness is significantly reduced.

The optimal groundwater level for fruit trees and most berry bushes should not exceed 1.5 meters, and for garden strawberries, optimal conditions are created at a groundwater depth of about 100 cm. And most vegetable crops grow well even at a higher level - from 0, 5 to 0.7 meters.

The level of groundwater in your area can be easily determined by the depth of water in wells or in pits specially dug for this purpose. If the groundwater level is close to the surface or rain (snow) water stagnates on your site for quite a long time, then you will have to do drainage work. To do this, with the help of ditches, water is diverted to any body of water or to places located at lower elevations.

This must be done even when the water has nowhere to go. In this case, it is advisable to make a reservoir for irrigation at the lowest point of your site. In hot summers, it is useful as a supply of heated water for irrigating heat-loving crops, growing aquatic plants, and as a habitat for frogs in winter.

On hot days, the reservoir will partially become shallow, and in bad weather it will fill up again, taking away excess water. By the way, such a reservoir, decorated with aquatic plants, can also become a decoration of your site. Well, if it is possible to make a drain for excess water outside the site, then drainage work is greatly simplified.

In order to determine if a drainage system is needed in your area, you should conduct a simple test. Dig a hole in the area to a depth of 0.6 meters and fill it with water. If the water has gone during the day, there is no need for drainage, but if the water remains in the pit, this means that the soil on the site is quite dense and you cannot do without a drainage system.

The easiest way to do it yourself in the country is to make open-type drainage. It is suitable for those areas where water drainage is needed after precipitation or snow melt. The advantages of this system are the simplicity of the device and the low price. For its implementation, it is required to dig drainage ditches around the residential building, the depth of which should be about 0.5 meters.

Then it is necessary to check whether the slope is sufficient, because if it turns out to be too small, water will stagnate in this place. In such a situation, you just need to change the slope of the sewage ditches so that the moisture quickly leaves even with heavy precipitation. Trenches should have a slope towards a lower place of at least 3-4 cm per linear meter.

When arranging open gutters, it is desirable to make their cross section in the form of an equilateral triangle with a side length of about 40 cm so that its edges do not sprinkle.

If your site is located on a slope, then the first ditch should be dug at the very top of it. This will prevent waterlogging of the soil in the area below. The second ditch should be parallel to the first and be in the lowest part of the estate.

You can connect two ditches with a trench, into which an underground pipe can later be laid. All water from the site will be collected in the lower ditch and drain into a reservoir or drainage well.

Over time, surface drainage ditches may cease to play their role, as a well-drained area usually becomes drier after 3-4 years. This is not only due to the release of excess water, but due to tillage. But even in this case, the drainage ditches should by no means be completely filled up.

At the bottom of the cleared drainage ditches, it is necessary to lay stumps, branches of trees and shrubs, and fragments of bricks more tightly. Put a layer of turf and garden soil on top, i.e. turn a surface gutter into a kind of underground drainage ditch. Year after year is not necessary. In years with high rainfall, this ditch can be of great help.

Closed drainage ditches are convenient in the sense that when they are installed on the site, the usable area is not lost, which is important in small areas. Yes, and digging them is also easier, because. the walls of such ditches can be almost sheer; you have to take out less land from them.

But, unfortunately, capital closed drainage systems are practically not built on individual garden plots. This is due to the high cost of execution and the unreliability of the materials used.

Therefore, closed ditches in garden plots are most often done, like our great-grandfathers, with the help of fascines. To do this, they dig narrow grooves 15-20 cm wide at the bottom and 50-70 cm deep, and put brushwood, thin logs, etc. a little obliquely along the groove.

From above, brushwood is covered with sod plates with grass down or other material, and then covered with earth. An even better effect is given by wooden crosses installed in a ditch every 0.5-0.6 meters, on which brushwood tied in bunches is placed, and covered with turf on top and then covered with earth.

In the manufacture of stony drainage, instead of brushwood, fascines and crosses, large stones are used, which are placed on the sides of the ditches, and then the opening is also covered with stones and covered with earth.

When making drainage ditches from small pebbles, instead of brushwood and logs, small cobblestones, crushed stone, broken bricks, etc. are poured into the bottom of the ditch, covered with fascines or turf on top and covered with soil. This last option is most often used in amateur gardens.

But such drainage will gradually perform its functions worse and worse, because. all air cavities eventually fill with dirt and silt.

And in especially wet and swampy areas, both surface and underground drainage ditches must be constantly kept in working condition.

Remember! Fruit trees should not be planted over underground drainage ditches, because after 10-15 years of their operation they may become clogged, and their overhaul will be required, which fruit trees will interfere with.

Much more often, “mini-drainage” problems also arise in gardens, requiring not to improve drainage in your area as a whole, but in planting pits near separately growing trees.

Our illiterate but wise ancestors most often used broken clay shards for drainage in such fruit trees, which, when properly laid on the bottom of the planting pit, form many air cavities, i.e. were perfect drainage.

An excellent "modern" material for improving drainage in planting pits can be ordinary plastic bottles. To do this, they are cut in half and laid on the bottom of the pit so that air cavities form. At the same time, the cork of the bottle cut in half is not unscrewed, but placed in the planting hole with the cork down.

Such drainage will never silt at all. When transplanting a fruit tree, you can notice many tiny roots in these air cavities. After some time, earthworms settle there, which break through passages to the surface of the soil, thereby supplying the drainage device with air.

Well, if on your site there is no way to lower the groundwater level to optimal values, then fruit trees and berry bushes will have to be planted on artificially created hills or ridges that are poured onto dug up soil. Their height depends on the groundwater level: the higher the groundwater level, the higher these mounds should be. But this is a topic for a completely different conversation.

V. G. Shafransky

High humidity in your area is fraught with disastrous consequences: water suppresses the root system of plant crops, which provokes their illness and subsequent death. Moreover, moisture washes away the foundation of the building and outbuildings, so the structures are flooded and begin to quickly collapse. Is it possible to avoid such problems? The best option for their prevention is a drainage device in the suburban area. This procedure is not so complicated as to hire professional builders - you can do it yourself. And in order for you to succeed, we invite you to learn more about the advantages and features of drainage and get acquainted with the simplest ways to arrange it.

Each summer resident invariably asks the same question: does his site really need drainage? You can find the answer yourself - just evaluate your summer cottage. Your garden is often overgrown with sedge, there are puddles on the site for a long time after rain, the earth dries for a long time after watering or melting snowdrifts - the first signs that drainage is indispensable. In order to be even more convinced of this, conduct a simple experiment: dig a hole 50-70 cm deep - if in a day it is full of water, proceed to the arrangement of the system without hesitation.

But there are four more conditions under which drainage is required:

• groundwater is very high;
• the cottage stands on dense clay soil;
• the site is located on a pronounced slope or vice versa - in a lowland;
• in your territorial zone, heavy rainfall occurs regularly.

As you can see, drainage is indispensable in almost all areas. So, if you want plants and trees to please with their growth, the paths are not deformed, and the cottage is not flooded, proceed to construction work.

Types of systems: surface and deep drainage of the site

When the question of the importance of drainage is closed, decide which system you need. It can be of two types.

superficial- the simplest version of drainage. Its functional purpose is to divert water that enters the land in the form of various precipitation, for example, rain or snow. This system works great on flat terrain without pronounced slopes. This drainage is essentially a system of ditches located around the entire perimeter of the site. The water collected in the ditches, over time, is either discharged into a special water collector, or simply evaporates. The surface system can be combined with traditional storm sewers.

Deep– drainage of the closed type. Such a system is needed if your site:

• located on uneven terrain;
• located on clay soil;
• has high groundwater;
• for any other reason is difficult to operate.

Deep drainage allows you to effectively protect not only garden and horticultural crops from increased moisture, but also the cottage itself, and all utility rooms.

Advice. Since the installation of a deep drainage system requires serious land work, it is recommended that you do it even before you start planting the bulk of the crops. An even better option, if possible, is to arrange drainage in parallel with laying the foundation.

Preparatory work

Drainage is an engineering structure, which is an extensive system of trenches and pipes. All its elements are interconnected and scattered, as a rule, around the entire perimeter of the site. Based on the above features, installation work cannot be started without a clear design of the drainage system.

The following points should be indicated in the project: the location of all drainage trenches, the flow of water, the scheme of vertical drainage sections, the location of wells, the depth of the drains. It is also important to determine the dimensions of all components of the system and their slope with respect to the upper soil. Such a detailed project plan will give you the opportunity to quickly navigate the location of all the elements of the drainage system in the process of arranging it, that is, it will simply make your work easier.

An important component of pre-construction procedures is the preparation of a set of tools and consumables that are necessary for installation work:

• perforated type pipes with a diameter of 75-100 mm;
• parts for connecting pipes - couplings and fittings;
• drainage wells;
• hacksaw;
• ramming tool;
• rail;
• building level;
• geofabric for drainage;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• shovel;
• a wheelbarrow for the removal of land and the supply of building materials.

Surface drainage system

Performing this type of drainage is technically a simple process.

1. Dig a trench around the entire perimeter of the summer cottage: depth - 70 cm, width - 50 cm. Its slope should be at least 25-30 degrees towards the water outlet.
2. Dig auxiliary ditches at the same angle.
3. Bring the trench and ditches to a single drainage well.

Advice. To make sure the trench works, do a simple test: pour water into the trench and see if it flows in the right direction, that is, towards the well. If deviations are noticed, be sure to correct the angle of the trench walls, otherwise the system will not be able to fully perform its functions.

1. Lay drainage geotextiles in the finished trenches.
2. Fill the trenches with multi-format crushed stone on geofabric: two-thirds - large grains, and one-third - small.
3. Lay turf on a layer of fine crushed stone.

In the second case, the continuation of the construction of the drainage after digging the trench is as follows:

1. Prepare plastic drainage trays.
2. At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of sand no more than 10 cm. Compact it well with a hand-type tamper.
3. Install plastic trays in the trench.
4. Install sand traps.
5. Mount decorative grilles on the trays - they will protect the drainage from debris and leaves, and also give it a prettier look.

Deep drainage in clay soils and other difficult terrain

The algorithm for building a deep system in complex areas is as follows:

As you can see, there is nothing unrealistic in the arrangement of the drainage system at their summer cottage, so do not be afraid to take on such work yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the type of drainage required and follow the rules for its installation. And do not forget that by making an effort just once, you can protect yourself from a lot of problems in the future, namely, from the death of garden and horticultural crops and the flooding of your own dacha.

The problem of flooding and increased waterlogging of the soil is familiar to the owners of sites located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnant water after snow melt does not allow for proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.

When is a drainage system needed?

Drainage is a technology for collecting and diverting ground, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents washing out, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.

The arrangement of the drainage system is not necessary in every area. In order to determine how badly your site needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and heavy rain. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.

Drainage system helps to remove stagnant water from the site

If there is little visual confirmation, then a simple experiment can be carried out - using a hand drill or a conventional shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the pit and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.

Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:

• high occurrence of groundwater;
• the site is located in an area with clay soil;
• the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
• The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.

The presence of drainage contributes to the preservation of finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and facade of the building.

Types of dehumidification systems

There are a wide variety of land drainage systems. At the same time, in various sources, their classification can be very different from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.

Surface type drainage

Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of heavy rainfall and uneven snowmelt.

Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris

The surface drainage system is constructed over the area of ​​the site, around the house and buildings adjacent to it, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subspecies:

1. Point - in some sources it is designated as local drainage. It is used to collect and divert water from a certain place on the site. The main area of ​​application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area of ​​containers and irrigation taps. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
2. Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, providing a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grates and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.

When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the most efficient operation of the system. If necessary, point and line drainage can be combined with the system described below.

deep drainage

Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where it is necessary to constantly drain the soil or lower the groundwater level. Drains are laid with observance of a slope in the direction of the flow of water, which enters the collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.

The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area

To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In the case when it is necessary to divert water from the foundation of the structure, the pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of ​​​​the site with a certain step. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their laying and the mechanical composition of the soil.

For example, when constructing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil, under the same conditions, the step between drains decreases to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths of laying can be seen in the table below. The information is taken from the book "Draining land for gardens" by A.M.Dumbljauskas.

When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the site is relatively flat, then to give a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 linear meter of the drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 meter is observed.

When arranging drainage of a long length, a minimum slope must be observed along the entire length of the drainage route. For example, for a drainage system with a length of 15 m, the minimum level difference between the start and end points of the route will be at least 30 cm.

If possible, it is recommended to exceed the declared slope standards. This will provide faster drainage, reduce the risk of silting and clogging of the drain. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring out 1–2 cm.

Drainage at their summer cottage - the easiest way with instructions

In order to independently carry out drainage of a land plot through a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase the necessary materials, prepare a tool and a place to perform work.

Surface drainage of a summer cottage

Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining suburban areas of a small area. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can use the diagram below as a basis. It depicts a drainage route in the shape of a Christmas tree. The distance between the drains, as discussed above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).

An example of the location of the drainage system at their summer cottage

To carry out the work, you will need a shovel and a bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. As materials, it will be necessary to prepare gravel of a fraction of 20–40, geotextiles, an edged bar or a board 2–3 m long.

For the construction of surface drainage in a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:

Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, the water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more laborious and requires the ability to work with concrete mix.

Drainage of the site using deep drainage

Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining summer cottages and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective pavement around the building, concrete or slab paths. If necessary, their partial dismantling can be performed, but in general the structure will not suffer.

An example of a project for a drainage system in a suburban area

Deep drainage works include the following:

1. According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of the drainage pipes and determine the point of water discharge, that is, the place from where the collected water will drain into the sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline should be below the freezing level of the soil. For the Northwestern region, this value is about 60–80 cm.

   Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage

2. Taking into account the plan, a trench is excavated along the perimeter and area of ​​​​a site up to 1 m deep. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into a single system, which is brought to the point of water discharge. After that, the trenches are dug with a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the runoff, the trenches are shed with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.

   A pit for a drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site

3. At the lowest point of the site, a place is arranged for the installation of a water intake or filtering drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clay soil types, it is better to install storage types of wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, both storage and filter wells can be used. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.

   A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.

4. Fine-grained gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. Geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After that, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
5. In places where the drain turns, modular manholes are installed. The diameter and height of the well depend on the estimated volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.

   An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns

6. Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for operability. To do this, a large amount of water is drained through the drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can proceed to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
7. A 20–30 cm layer of gravel with a fraction of 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After that, drains with laid rubble are covered with geotextiles. A 10-15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured over the geotextile and carefully compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be covered with fertile soil or ordinary soil from the site.

Ways to drain a site without drainage

Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnant water in the area are not always associated with a high level of groundwater. Sometimes this is due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy rainfall. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, puddles and mold form on the soil surface.

Sanding clay soil is one way to drain a site without drainage.

If, due to some circumstances, the installation of a drainage system is impossible, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:

Of the above methods of draining the site, the most effective are the addition of a sufficient amount of fertile soil and the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m 3 of soil is enough.

The easiest way to drain the soil on the site

The arrangement of shallow trenches filled with rubble is the easiest way to drain a summer cottage. Despite the general simplicity, this method is very effective and is able to cope with a large amount of water formed during the melting of snow.

Work on the arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of ​​​​the site includes the following:

If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be sprinkled with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under the turf layer. It is not recommended to plant flowers and greenery over the drainage trench. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.

How to clear a blockage in a drain pipe

Failure to comply with the technology of laying drainage pipes is the main cause of stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not provide a constant and uniform discharge of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.

To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure.

The easiest way to clean drain pipes is to use a steel cable to clean the drains. At one end of the cable there is a spiral nozzle, at the other - a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of blockage.

For cleaning pipes Ø110 mm and more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drain pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Further, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards the water drain. Usually, small accumulations of silt and foliage are pushed through without much difficulty.

If it was not possible to eliminate the blockage, then it will be necessary to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.

Video: do-it-yourself site drainage

Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnant water on the site are a big problem that affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that an excess of water can be dealt with with the help of a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the arrangement of the well is impossible due to some circumstances.

Poor growth of garden crops and trees, constant dirt on garden paths and seasonal flooding of cellars and cellars indicate a high level of groundwater in the summer cottage. You should not put up with these inconveniences, otherwise high humidity can turn into more significant problems - swelling of blind areas and paths, shrinkage of walls, and even destruction of the foundation. Nevertheless, there is no reason to rush to get rid of suburban property. It is not difficult to drain the territory - it is enough to build an efficient drainage system. The construction of drainage does not require any special skills, so you can easily do it yourself. As for knowledge, we will try to talk about the secrets of construction and give important recommendations in the course of work.

What indicates the need for drainage

A drainage system is necessary where the site is flooded even after a light rain

The question of whether a drainage system is needed in a suburban area, as a rule, does not require a long study of the situation and analysis of natural factors. Most often, the inconvenience that occurs due to waterlogging of the soil appears after snowmelt or heavy rain. The beds are overgrown with sedge, paths and lawns occupy puddles for a long time, and basements and cellars suffer from dampness - these are the factors that indicate the need for drainage. Nevertheless, before investing time and money in arranging a drainage system, you should make sure that it is worthwhile. Several conditions will help to do this, indicating the need to drain the soil.

If at least one of these factors is confirmed in your country house, then the need for drainage can not be discussed. A high-quality drainage system will give a second life to cultivated plants, make the territory cleaner, save paths from deformation, and the foundation from destruction.

Varieties and arrangement of drainage systems

The problem of excessive soil moisture in the area can be solved by two types of drainage systems - surface and deep. The decision which one to use to drain your site directly depends on the reasons that lead to the flooding of the territory.

Surface (open) drain for collecting rainfall

Surface-type drainage is a system of storm water inlets designed to collect and remove rain and melt water outside the site, preventing it from soaking into the ground. Such a drainage system works excellently on clay soils and can complement traditional storm sewers. Water is drained into filtration wells or outside the site. In addition, the lion's share of precipitation simply evaporates.

Point drainage is very often combined with a linear drainage system.

Depending on the design of the drainage systems, surface drainage is divided into two types:

When arranging point drainage, wastewater is collected using storm dampers, drains, storm water inlets and ladders. Their installation sites are door wells, roof gutter drain points, areas under water taps and other areas that need local water collection. Point collectors are connected to underground pipes, through which effluent enters the storm sewer collector.

The trays of the linear drainage system are closed with gratings that prevent them from clogging.

Linear drainage can be near-wall or remote from structures. It is a system of grated trays for collecting precipitation that did not fall into the point storm water inlets. This method of drying is rational to use in such cases:

Linear also includes road drainage, which is made in the form of a ditch parallel to the roadbed for the movement of cars.

Arrangement of a deep drainage system is necessary where groundwater approaches the surface of the site closer than 2.5 meters. During its construction, a large amount of earthwork is required, therefore it is best to construct such drainage at the same time as digging foundation pits for the foundation of the house and outbuildings.

Prefabricated Drainage Pipes and Recommended Ground Types

For the construction of deep drainage, perforated pipes (drains) are used, which are laid in the soil layer at an angle. The presence of holes allows drains to collect excess moisture and transport it to a storage collector, filtration well or drainage tunnel.

The slope of the drainage pipes must be at least 1%. For example, for a 20 m long highway, the height difference between the upper and lower points will be 20 cm.

Design features of deep drainage systems

Another common type of deep drainage is a reservoir or backfill system. It is made in the form of an underground channel, half filled with a filter pad made of crushed stone or crushed brick. To prevent the absorption of the collected moisture, the bottom of the formation drains is sealed with a layer of clay, on top of which a rolled waterproofing is laid.

The simplest and most effective methods of draining a summer cottage

Since drainage in the summer cottage and directly around the buildings can be done in various ways, we will focus on the simplest and least labor-intensive options.

How to reduce moisture levels without drainage

Many factors influence swampiness, therefore, in some cases, a summer plot can be drained without drainage. If a special relief contributes to the increased soil moisture, then it is quite simple to make the water flow outside the site. To do this, in some places the soil is removed, and in others it is poured, creating a small slope. If the selected soil is not enough, then it is imported from outside the garden area. It is better to add soil in the country with black soil or peat, and in order to make the soil lighter, 1/3 to 1/5 parts of sand are added to it.

A reservoir equipped at the bottom of the site is an excellent way to dispose of drainage water

In the event that water accumulates on the site due to closely spaced layers of clay, and the territory itself has a slight slope, then a small reservoir can be dug at the lowest point. It can be used as a natural reservoir for watering cultivated plants, turned into a fish pond or used as a decorative element of landscape design. As a rule, due to the high level of groundwater, there is no need for additional waterproofing, but in some cases a special PVC film for pools will help make the reservoir airtight. To prevent the surface of the artificial lake from blooming, aquatic plants are planted along its banks.

Planting moisture-loving plants is a great way to normalize soil moisture. For example, an ordinary birch is a real pump that literally pumps water out of the ground. Spiraea, shadberry, hawthorn, wild rose, and, of course, willow and willow do a good job of draining the territory. Planted in problem areas, as well as along the paths, they will not only remove excess moisture, but will make the landscape original and attractive.

How to make drainage around a country house or outbuildings

To protect the basement or basement from melt and rain water, wall drainage is built around summer cottages. This drainage system is most effective during the off-season, when the groundwater level reaches its maximum value. The construction of the "reclamation" system is best carried out at the stage of foundation construction, however, if the decision to build it was made due to the appearance of water in the basement, it's okay - better late than never.

Constant flooding threatens to destroy the foundation

The construction of the drainage is carried out in stages.

Drainage around the house can be done in two ways - close to the foundation and at a distance from it

You should not hurry with the arrangement of the blind area around the house - it is necessary to withstand time for the soil to shrink in the trench. The pouring of concrete and the laying of paving slabs begin only after the soil is finally compacted.

Video: construction of a low-budget deep drainage system with one well

Drainage of a suburban area: the easiest method

A surface drainage system allows you to avoid unnecessary financial costs and build drainage facilities on a large summer cottage. Its main purpose is to remove excess moisture during heavy rains or during the period of snowmelt.

When arranging open drainage, earthworks are carried out in accordance with the instructions below.

Next, they deal, in fact, with drainage. Depending on the degree of aesthetics, landscape design requirements or personal preferences, it can be tray or backfill. In the first case, the arrangement of channels looks like this:

Laying trays will make the drainage system durable and aesthetic

In the second case, the construction is carried out according to the following scheme:

For the arrangement of drainage, you can also use the old, "old-fashioned" method - the construction of fascines. For this, branches of alder, willow or birch are harvested, which are tied into armfuls 15 cm thick so that thin twigs are on one side and thick ones on the other. Bundles of branches are not laid on the ground, but on pegs previously installed along the entire length of the trenches, connected like anti-tank "hedgehogs". Brushwood is placed with thick branches up and compacted along the edges with moss. If everything is done correctly, then we can count on a 20-year operation of the reclamation system.

To protect the walls of the channels from collapse, rubble stone or turf is used. The trenches are decorated by constructing ridges along their edges with perennial moisture-loving plants, such as irises.

One way to make the drainage channel more attractive is to plant ornamental plants.

Drainage of a suburban area: the traditional way

No matter how simple and cheap an open drainage system is, it has one significant drawback - low aesthetics. Agree that landscape design on a site with a whole network of channels is not an easy task. In this case, it is better not to save money and build a durable and efficient deep-type dehumidification system.

The best scheme for laying drainage pipes is the "herringbone". In it, the side lines converge to one central pipe, which is led into a sewer well or outside the site.

Diagram of a deep drainage system

If the drainage system is needed not to protect the foundation, but in order to reduce soil moisture, then the depth of the trenches is chosen based on the recommended values:

For drainage, special polymer pipes with holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 5 mm are used. Ideally, their type and quantity is determined by a calculation that takes into account soil moisture, its type, precipitation, etc., however, if you do drainage yourself, it is cheaper to buy PVC water pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and make a grid of holes in them with step 40-60 mm independently.

Indoor drainage trenches can be dug manually or with earthmoving equipment.

After the ditches are dug, proceed to the main part of the work.

Observing the slopes, they lay and connect drainage pipes into a single network.

It is not recommended to use crushed limestone for arranging drainage. Firstly, at a depth it is compressed and will not let moisture through, and secondly, its interaction with the soil can provoke the appearance of a salt marsh.

Video: construction of a closed drainage system in a summer cottage

Maintenance and cleaning of drainage in the country

Although a properly built deep or surface drainage system does not need frequent preventive measures, some work cannot be avoided. The contents of the manholes should be checked periodically by clearing soil particles using a dirty water pump and a high pressure pump. When pumping mud from a drainage well, a long pole is used to shake up bottom sediments. Complete flushing is required in case of severe silting of pipes, as well as every 10-15 years of operation of the drainage system.

High pressure water systems are best for cleaning drain pipes

To free the line from sand deposits, the pipeline must be accessible from both sides. Rinsing is carried out with a strong jet of water, which is alternately directed from one side of the pipe, then from the other side.

If you have to deal with persistent deposits of dirt and clay, then you can use the traditional plumbing technique - cleaning pipes with a long cable and a stiff bristle ruff brush. By combining mechanical action with flushing, it is possible to completely remove long-term deposits on drainage pipes.

In case of siltation of the channels of surface systems, you can resort to cleaning them with saltpeter. To do this, the turf and the top backfill are removed from the trenches, after which saltpeter is evenly scattered on the crushed stone layer. Then the “pie” is poured abundantly with water and the upper layers are returned to their place. A similar method allows you to extend the performance of the system for more than one year, but you can only use it as a last resort - saltpeter is a source of nitrates, and its excess negatively affects the quality of the soil.

Video: how to flush a deep-type drainage system

A high-quality drainage system will protect the foundation and basement of a country house from flooding, add health and strength to green spaces. The cost of land reclamation measures is not so high as to refuse them, especially since you can build drainage on the site with your own hands. Everything you need for this can be easily found in the distribution network, and earthmoving equipment will help speed up the work.

When you constantly meet with the problem of the appearance of excess water on the site, it is necessary to take measures to remove it. Otherwise, you will not only get into trouble in cultivating the site, but also jeopardize damage to the foundation of the house or nearby utility buildings. The manufacture of drainage, or rather, a drainage structure in this situation, is the only acceptable way out.

In this article, we will consider a simple and economical way to create drainage in a personal plot.

Preparatory actions

Before you begin the process of assembling and installing a drainage structure, you need to decide what result you would like to achieve. Based on your decision, you need at least at a primitive level to create for yourself a project of the future system: determine its location, possible consequences of contact between the system and surrounding objects, dimensions, dimensions. Based on the generalization of all these data, it is already possible to calculate the material costs for the purchase of the entire volume of consumables. It is useful, by the way, to understand that the depth of drainage directly depends on the height of the well intended for drainage. It is customary to place the well a little higher than the elements of the entire structure.

Now about the design itself: traditional (or “French”) drainage is a trench filled with gravel, separated from the ground by geotextiles (geotextile is used to prevent mixing of soil and gravel, it also passes water through itself and prevents weeds from growing). Gravel together with geofabric helps water to quickly soak into the ground, evenly distributing moisture along its location, thus preventing the collection and stagnation of water in a particular one place.

When creating this type of drainage, corrugated pipes are usually used, equipped with longitudinal holes on one side, usually made of PVC. At the end of the entire system, a drainage tank should be located, the task of which is to evenly distribute the accumulated water into the ground around it. To create this well, a two-hundred-liter plastic barrel in the form of a drum is well suited (the rounded shape of the container is more preferable in this case) with multiple holes in the bottom and walls. This well should be placed on a special gravel “cushion” (about 10 cm), the space between the walls of the pit and the tank is also filled with gravel (layer thickness 15 cm). Holes are made in the upper part of the barrel to receive incoming water, and one of the holes is to install a special drainage grate. You don’t need to make many holes, two or three, 5 cm each, are enough. One large hole is made in the upper part of the well wall, designed to enter the drainage system pipe.

The second major element of such a system is a water collection tank, the width of which should be approximately 30x30 cm. The tank must be equipped with a drain grate. personal plot is not a very costly operation. In the manufacture of the system, affordable materials are used and you need a little of them. The most expensive part you will need may be the catchment tank. A PVC pipe will cost much less. Gravel will need about two cubic meters. You will also need to purchase a special fabric - geotextiles.

Digging a drainage trench

Next, you need to dig a trench from the catchment area to the drainage site and a pit to install a well on this side and a reservoir on the other. In the place for the drainage well, the pit will need to be deepened by 15 cm compared to the depth of the rest of the trench, the depth of which, in turn, you will need to independently calculate based on the size of the drainage tank.

Production of a drainage well

Using a drill with a diameter of 2-3 cm, you can easily turn the walls of the tank into a sieve. Through these holes, if possible, made at equal intervals, the waste water that has entered the barrel must evenly go into the surrounding soil. On the wall of the barrel, at the top, you should make a hole according to the diameter of the drainage pipe and prepare a mount for the pipe.

trench filling

Then the excavated trench must be covered with geofabric. This will prevent silt and dirt particles from mixing with the gravel. Also, geotextiles will provide better absorption of moisture by the ground. Next, place an already prepared 200-liter barrel on an 8-10 cm gravel bed. Place a small amount of gravel around the barrel and make sure that the tank does not “walk” from side to side. Similar actions should be done with the water collector, which must be made so that its upper edge is along the edge of the earth's surface. The height of the water collector can also be adjusted by adding gravel.

Make sure that the water collector is also immobilized. Then you need to connect both reserve cars to the drain pipe. It is important to know that the holes in the drainage pipe should be located on its lower side, while the pipe itself is laid down a slope. Fill the trench with gravel. Make sure that the surface of the earth and gravel remains 15 cm. Next, we mount the grate for draining on the tank. Then it is necessary to tuck the geofabric, making sure that the edges of the textile on both sides of the trench overlap, covering each other.

Backfilling with earth

At the final stage of the installation of drainage, it is necessary to fill the trench well with earth, avoiding soil subsidence and unevenness. If you bury the trench with high quality, then literally in a year it will be possible to guess that the drainage system is located under this place only by the “peeping out” gratings. The installation site of the system can be sown with lawn grass.

Now you know how you can independently build drainage in just a couple of days at no significant cost. The main thing in this case, as in all others, is careful preparation.

Video How to make drainage on the site with your own hands