INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
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Not so long ago, the blackberry was considered a forest plant, but now it is a very frequent guest in the gardens. Many varieties of this delicious black berry, including thornless ones. The reproduction of blackberries resembles the reproduction of many similar shrubs, and cuttings stand out among the known methods.
Blackberries are propagated by dividing the bush, top and root layers, sometimes seeds. Very popular methods of propagation by cuttings: lignified, green and root. Green cuttings - reliable method, suitable for almost all varieties, but difficult to implement in amateur gardens. It is especially important for thornless varieties: if you try to propagate them with root cuttings, thorns will grow on new bushes.
Summer breeding of blackberries green cuttings- one of the most effective ways, but for its implementation it is necessary special equipment: constant temperature greenhouse and high humidity air. Therefore, green cuttings in dacha practice are of limited use. It is mainly used for breeding especially valuable varieties. Green cuttings from an adult bush are cut in the middle of summer. They take a section in the upper part of the shoot (except for the last 2 buds) and cut it off so that there is only one good bud on the handle.
Green cuttings are cut when the blackberry is still at the peak of its summer growth.
Green cuttings cannot be stored, they are immediately put into action. To do this, they are treated with a 0.3% solution of indolylbutyric acid, after which they are planted in cups with soil mixture(peat with perlite) and put in a greenhouse or greenhouse. They create an artificial fog with a humidity of about 100%, after a month roots form on the cuttings.
More often use lignified cuttings, which cut with the onset of autumn from even strong annual shoots on healthy bushes. The length of the cutting can be from 15 to 40 cm, it should contain 2-3 well-developed buds. Sections are made with a sharp pruner perpendicular to the growth of the shoot. Leaves and thorns are immediately cut from the cuttings. You can immediately put the material into the water at home, but more often it is stored until February.
Blackberries are often propagated by root cuttings: this method is especially good for varieties that do not give root offspring. You can prepare root cuttings both in late autumn and in early spring during a period of relative rest. To do this, carefully dig up the ground near the mother bush at least 3 years old and cut into pieces of roots (preferably young ones) up to 10 cm long. The thicker the cutting, the more reliable, so they try to find areas with a thickness of at least 5–7 mm.
To harvest root cuttings, you need to expose the roots in one way or another.
If the root cuttings are cut in spring, they are immediately planted in a new place to a depth of 10–12 cm. If the place is assumed to be permanent, about 80 cm is left between them, and if it is temporary, for the subsequent transplantation of the resulting plants, then much less. The cuttings are covered with loose soil and watered well throughout the summer. During spring harvesting in winter they are stored in a cellar or basement.
It should be understood that the bush from which the pieces of roots are cut is greatly weakened, and one should not expect a good harvest from it.
If green cuttings are always put on root formation immediately after cutting, then lignified ones prefer to keep until the end of winter, and in February they plant them in pots at home. Sometimes chopped cuttings are stored directly on garden plot, having built a pit. This can be any trench about 70 cm deep, protected from rodents and not flooded with water. Planting material is placed in this hole, added dropwise, but you need to be able to get it at the end of winter. To make it easier to do this, the cuttings are placed on a board, and sprinkled with peat.
In winter, lignified cuttings are stored in a prikope
Since this is often impossible, the cuttings are stored in a cellar or basement at a temperature not exceeding +8 ° C in constantly wet sand. Under the same conditions, root cuttings are also contained if they were harvested in the fall. In the absence of a cellar, you can store the material at home. To do this, the cuttings are folded into a plastic bag and placed in the lower section of the refrigerator. True, a couple of times a month you need to carry out an audit: ventilate the cuttings, remove excess moisture or, conversely, slightly moisten them.
A little trick is known: the cuttings are stuck into a cut potato and wrapped with it in a simple cloth and put in a bag. In this embodiment, it is possible to check the cuttings for moisture much less frequently.
Cuttings can also be stored in potato tubers
If green cuttings can only be successfully handled if there is special conditions(for example, artificial fog), then everything is much simpler with lignified and rooted ones, any gardener can root them, and this is done both in the garden and at home.
Green cuttings are rooted in an atmosphere of artificial fog
It is best to plant root cuttings in the greenhouse in the spring, no later than the beginning of April. For this:
At home, root cuttings can be germinated from the second half of January, but it will be necessary to build artificial lighting. One cutting can be planted in a convenient half-liter pot, and any required amount can be planted in a large box. The cuttings are also treated with Fitosporin, but at home, a mixture of peat and perlite (4: 1) is used as a substrate for germination.
The first shoots may appear within a week. It is difficult to grow them without a transplant, so as they grow best plants moved to larger pots. Drainage (coarse sand or small pebbles) is necessarily placed on their bottom, and then, to the middle of the height, a mixture of peat and humus. However, young plants are planted not in humus, but in pure peat (with the addition of perlite), which fills the upper half of the pot. They will need humus only when they take root in a new place; the roots, growing, will find the necessary nutrition themselves. If several sprouts appear on the handle, it is carefully cut into pieces.
When the sprouts on the root cuttings grow up, future seedlings are planted in large containers
Watering seedlings should be moderate, especially in the first time after transplantation. In spring or summer, if everything goes well, they can be carefully transplanted into the garden.
In the second half of January, the cuttings harvested in the fall can be taken out of storage and their germination can begin. In this case, by spring there will be strong ready-made blackberry seedlings. Sometimes roots can appear in a bath of water, but this technique is very unreliable. It is necessary to create conditions under which the upper end of the cutting would be constantly in a moist substrate, and the easiest way to do this is at home.
If the cuttings bend easily without breaking, then you can put them in a jar of water, tilt them and fix the tops in cups with wet peat. In the case of hard cuttings, their upper ends are wrapped with wet moss and then with a plastic bag. Roots should appear in 20-25 days.
One way to get roots on lignified cuttings involves the use of a plastic bag.
You can treat lignified cuttings almost like root cuttings, that is, bury them completely in the substrate. To do this, take a mixture of peat and perlite, which is placed in a container with a transparent lid. After disinfection in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, the cuttings are well soaked in water and planted horizontally in the substrate to a depth of 2-3 cm. A sprout may appear from each kidney in a week.
When the sprouts reach a height of 4-5 cm, the cuttings are removed from the substrate, carefully cut into pieces and each plant is planted in individual pots in a mixture garden soil, humus, peat and sand. Light day should last at least 12 hours, the humidity of the substrate should be moderate.
The cutting method is time consuming, but it guarantees the success of blackberry propagation. And if green cuttings on ordinary summer cottages difficult to carry out, then lignified or root cuttings take root quite reliably.
On the own site it is better to have more than one fruit berry bush - blackberry, but several. You don't have to worry if the plantation is attacked viral disease and have to delete everything. Blackberry breeds large quantity ways. You just need to know in what periods it is better to use and which method is suitable for obtaining high-quality and viable planting material.
Blackberries are propagated at any time of the year - in spring, summer and autumn, except for winter. Suitable for every period various ways shrub division.
Spring is an ideal time for rooting blackberry cuttings that have root system. Seedlings can be grown from seed or share root pieces when transplanted. mother bush.
Rooting is carried out in the spring, until the plant begins to produce tender young leaves. This procedure is recommended after the last frosts have left. It is impossible to determine the date of commencement of planting operations. It varies due to weather conditions and the climate of the region.
Planted in the spring, young blackberry cuttings quickly gain strength and release roots, well fixed in the ground.
In summer, blackberries are propagated by layering by burying shoots, digging up young offspring and transplanting them to a new place of residence. The shrub is planted by dividing the bush into several daughter shoots.
When propagating blackberries by dividing the bush, there is a danger that the bush will not be able to a long period settle down because elevated temperature air. Therefore, it is necessary to mulch the soil after planting so that the soil gives less moisture by evaporation.
In autumn, it is recommended to dig in blackberry layering, pinning part of the vine to the ground with a pin and covering it with soil from above. In winter, the runners will release young roots and take root in the ground. In the spring, it remains to cut off the young bush from the mother plant and transplant to a new place.
The gardener himself must determine the exact time for planting, taking into account his desires and capabilities. Every moment of time is successful only with good, high-quality care.
The methods of propagation of blackberries depend on its type. For example, for bush remontant blackberries, dividing the bush and propagating by root buds is best suited. But for upright shrub species that give a lot of root offspring, they will take root well with lateral shoots and top.
There are the following methods of propagation of blackberries:
Thus, each gardener not only chooses for himself the optimal time for planting, but also the method he likes most for growing planting material, depending on the variety of shrubs.
Let us consider in more detail each of the previously named methods of reproduction.
Getting seeds from blackberries is very simple, but they germinate, as a rule, extremely reluctantly.
Each berry contains a sufficient amount of planting material. It is only necessary to bring the fruit to full ripeness and dry the berry. The resulting seedlings can be planted immediately in the prepared soil.
Step by step instructions planting blackberry seeds:
Note! Planting seeds does not preserve the maternal qualities of the bush. It is suitable for the practice of young or inexperienced gardeners.
This method of propagation of blackberries is necessary when the shrub does not have other ways to divide, i.e. it lacks young shoots.
Carefully! Old shrubs are not suitable for dividing.
The procedure for propagating blackberries by dividing the bush can be carried out in the spring, when the last snow melts, then the roots will have time to take root and grow with the first sunny days. In the fall, it is worth holding an event so that the seedlings planted in a new place have time to grow and fully take root in the ground. But the advantage of propagating blackberries by dividing the bush in the fall is preparing for winter and the natural stratification of the shrub, after which the seedling develops immunity.
This breeding method is ideal for climbing, climbing and creeping blackberries, and it can only be performed at the end of summer - early autumn (ideally - at the end of August). This is necessary so that the stalk has time to take root and take root before the onset of cold weather.
Important! Should be considered climatic conditions. Therefore, the method is not suitable for growing in Siberia and the Urals. If it is not possible to propagate blackberries in another way, then it is recommended to hold the event at an earlier date.
Step-by-step instruction for propagation of blackberries with tops is as follows:
Video: top propagation of blackberries
It is best to propagate climbing blackberries in this way. This method is great if you have enough blackberries, as you are planting shoots in the ground that could bear fruit next summer.
To propagate blackberries with horizontal layering, you need:
At the beginning of each spring, the plant drives out young offspring for further growth of the shrub. When the young offspring reach a length of 10-20 cm, they are dug out, tearing out the root system, and separated from the common rhizome of the mother bush with a pruner. After that, they are transplanted to a prepared place.
So transplanted into autumn period, but then an impressive clod of earth is left on the rhizome so that the plant does not feel significant changes and does not start to hurt.
Cuttings are carried out in the autumn. The shoot is cut so that 2-3 buds remain on the cutting, and it is up to 15-20 cm high. Cuttings are stored, like root cuttings, in a refrigerator or cellar.
Blackberries can be propagated by stem (lignified) and green cuttings.
This method of propagation is suitable for any variety of blackberries. The benefits of breeding stem cuttings are simplicity, versatility, as well as a large number of seedlings at one time.
To propagate blackberries with stem cuttings, you must:
There is another option for cutting blackberries - planting in summer with green cuttings taken from the top.
Propagation of blackberries by green cuttings occurs as follows:
by the most serious disadvantage is the fact that the survival rate of green cuttings is only 10%, and creating conditions for their germination in a greenhouse is not the easiest task.
Those who don't make mistakes don't try to improve. All gardeners do a series of wrong things and learn from their own mistakes. If experienced farmers had not stumbled in their time, they would not have been able to have their own point of view and own methods to grow a plant.
The following errors are distinguished when propagating blackberries different ways:
Attention! Instructions for preparing cuttings or branches for propagation should be followed. When dividing a shrub, it is imperative to carefully examine whether underground buds remain on the rhizome or not. After rooting, young seedlings should be carefully cared for. Without monitoring the state of landings, all prepared material may die.
Thus, propagating blackberries is not difficult, but interesting and exciting. The first independent results on the rooting of young seedlings and cuttings are especially important. To succeed, you need to adhere to the basic rules and monitor the soil moisture and the absence of diseases and pests.
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blackberry, as well as raspberries, are propagated by seeds and vegetatively: by apical layering (in open ground), root suckers (lignified and green), root and green cuttings, division of bushes, tissue culture method. Upright blackberries are propagated by root offspring, green and root cuttings, dividing the bush, and seeds.
The main methods are propagation by apical and lateral layering and root offspring, other methods vegetative propagation are auxiliaries.
In blackberries, it is possible, since most varieties and species retain their economically valuable traits well. At seed propagation, according to I. V. Michurin, most blackberry seedlings have good properties:
“When sowing the first generation, excellent seedlings were obtained - up to 40% of the total number of seedlings turned out to be much more hardy than their producers, and when sowing in the second generation from the seeds of a selected seedling with best qualities, both in terms of the merits of the berries, and the greater endurance of the plant itself, up to 80% of seedlings were quite worthy of cultivation. Their endurance has increased so much that they endure frosts of 27.5 ... 30 ° C without harm even in the absence of snow.
Low natural germination of seeds can be increased by applying scarification (partial mechanical or chemical destruction of the hard shell) and (pre-sowing treatment with low temperatures).
Before sowing, it is good to hold the seeds in snow or rain water for 2-3 days. A suitable substrate for sowing moistened seeds is light soil, peat chips or wet sand. Seeds should not be covered with substrate more than 8 mm. After planting the seeds, the soil is lightly compacted and watered. Trays or pots with sown seeds are kept for 1.5-2 months in a cold room at a temperature of 2 ... 5 ° C, keeping the substrate in a sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged state. a temperature of about 20 ° C for germination.
With the appearance of three true leaves on the seedlings, they are thinned out, leaving a distance between them of at least 3-4 cm. After the appearance of the fourth leaflet, the seedlings are transplanted into fertilized soil. In autumn they are covered with leaves, straw, etc. and left for the winter. In the spring they are planted in a permanent place in the ground. Plants obtained from seeds begin to bear fruit in the third or fourth year.
Varieties with creeping shoots that originated from dewdrops form little or no root offspring. Therefore, in order to obtain a large amount of planting material, it is advisable to root the non-lignified part (ends) of shoots 30-35 cm long. The end of the shoot is placed in a groove 20-30 cm deep, then sprinkled with earth 10-12 cm.
As a result, 3-4 young plants suitable for planting are formed on it. Rooting is carried out at the end of July - August (depending on the area of cultivation and variety). It is necessary that the shoots have time to take root well, but do not germinate above the ground in autumn, but overwinter in the soil, otherwise they may freeze. In the spring of next year, young shoots germinate quickly, they are dug up, separated from the mother plant. This is how varieties Affluent, Texas, Thornfree are propagated.
In young shoots of creeping blackberries, when they reach 60 cm in height, the top is shortened by 10-12 cm. Lateral shoots grow from axillary buds. When the tops of the side shoots become spindle-shaped and they have small leaves and thickenings at the end, they are pressed to the ground, deepened by 5 cm and sprinkled with loose moist substrate. By the end of the growing season, the tops take root and form a vegetative bud.
In the same autumn or spring of the next year, the top is cut off from the mother plant and left until autumn in the same place or transplanted for growing. To increase the yield of seedlings on the lateral shoot under the buds, make light notches with a razor and lay it, without cutting it off from the mother bush, in a groove with loose, moist soil.
By the autumn of next year, shoots grow from the buds and take root. The stem is carefully dug up and divided into separate seedlings, trying not to shake off the soil from the roots. With careless digging, tender roots break off and seedlings do not take root well in a new place.
All blackberry varieties with erect shoots (Agawam, Eldorado, etc.) are propagated by root suckers that grow annually in in large numbers around the bush. Their number depends on the variety of blackberries, soil moisture, content in it nutrients and plant care.
Blackberry roots- these are young shoots formed on roots, less often rhizomes (rhizomatous offspring), which come to the surface of the soil in spring, grow and develop without losing contact with the mother plant, and reach a height of 0.5-1 m by autumn. To obtain planting material choose one or two high-yielding healthy (uterine) bushes, from which they then take offspring growing around them.
Green offspring are usually dug up in May - June with a clod of earth at a stem height of 10-15 cm and transplanted to a permanent place. If the soil has not yet been prepared, then the offspring are planted on a picking bed, where they are grown to a standard seedling. Sometimes the offspring are kept near the bushes until autumn and dug up before planting in a permanent place (in the conditions of central Russia in August - early September). When digging, the shoots are cut so that their length (from the root) is 30–40 cm. .
Benign planting material obtained on soils richly seasoned organic fertilizers. Each blackberry bush produces 15-20 offspring. If the shoots are not intended for planting, then most they are removed during the summer during weeding or loosening the soil to avoid strong thickening of blackberry plantations.
This method is used when there is a great need for planting material on varieties with creeping shoots (such as dewdrop), which give little or no root offspring. In the absence of offspring, straight-growing blackberries can also be propagated by root cuttings.
In late autumn or early spring, carefully dig out the entire root system of the uterine fruit-bearing bush, cut it into pieces or cut off the roots no closer than 60 cm from the bush. Mostly young (1-3-year-old) roots are used. The average thickness of the root cutting is 0.3-1.3 cm, length 5-10 cm (depending on the variety).
Cuttings are planted either in a permanent place or in picking beds, and in the fall of next year, the plants are used for planting. During the winter, cuttings can also be stored in the basement, in damp sand, and planted in well-fertilized soil in the spring. When planting, the cuttings are placed in grooves in rows, to a depth of 10-12 cm, with distances between them in a row of 20 cm, between rows - 70-80 cm. Then the grooves with cuttings are covered with loose earth and watered until rooting. During the summer, several weeding and loosening of the soil is carried out.
By autumn, good planting material with 1-2 shoots and developed roots grows from root cuttings. From one uterine fruiting bush, you can get up to 400 plants. Thornless varieties cannot be propagated by root cuttings, as plants with thorns grow from them.
Used for propagation of creeping blackberries and valuable varieties and forms of blackberries. When a mother bush has a lot of extra offspring, they can be used as green cuttings. At the beginning of July (in middle lane) single-bud green cuttings are cut from the shoots. The upper third of the shoot is more suitable for this, with the exception of the two most recent 25 buds.
Cuttings, consisting of a part of the stem, bud and leaf, are treated with 0.3% indolylbutyric acid for better rooting. Then they are planted in small containers (for example, in paper cups that have served their intended purpose, cylinders made of polyethylene film), filled with soil mixture (1 part peat + 1 part perlite or sand, vermiculite, crushed expanded clay, etc.). Containers with cuttings are placed in greenhouses, greenhouses with a film cover or special chambers with an artificial fog atmosphere at a humidity of 96-100%. Such chambers are available for a business that grows seedlings for commercial purposes.
After 25-30 days, roots form on the cuttings and the plants are planted in a permanent place. Green cuttings can be combined with summer pruning and normalization of shoots. Green cuttings of the varieties Thornless Logan, Black Satin are well rooted, weakly - Dirksen Thornless, very poorly - Smutstem.
Apply when the variety does not produce offspring. When dividing a bush in each separate part, several healthy young shoots with strong good roots should be left. Parts of the bush with old rhizomes should not be taken, they are discarded. From one bush you can get 5-6 new ones.
Do not know how to propagate blackberries ?! Blackberries are very useful and tasty berries. Therefore, among summer residents, its cultivation is becoming an increasingly popular activity. In addition, this berry is unpretentious in care, with the help of this plant you can even create hedge on the personal plot. But still, the gardener should stock up on certain knowledge in order to propagate blackberries and get good harvest.
Blackberries can grow and produce crops on the site for at least 10 years. Therefore, when acquiring a certain variety, it is worth considering where to buy it: from a friend of a gardener, or in a promising nursery. But if the task is to save money, then there is a way out.
If the gardener has a mother plant, then at least 20 seedlings can be grown from one such shrub. This method will require minimum costs and is suitable even for a beginner gardener.
Pigging can be done in autumn, from late September to early October. And in the spring plant young seedlings.
This method involves pre-cutting the top of the shoot, followed by digging. The subsequent stages of reproduction are the same as in the first method, and the separation of seedlings is carried out in the spring.
Some summer residents resort to a little trick to quickly root the shoot. The bark of the shoot is cut a little or slightly scratched with a sharp knife, in the place where the seedling will be buried in the ground. With this method, it is much easier for the roots to break through the bark.
This method is acceptable provided that the planting material is selected from bushes that are no more than three years old.
Blackberry during this period acquires a powerful root system. It grows well underground and young shoots from the roots appear on the surface of the soil, they are also called offspring.
These offspring are simply dug out, with a small piece of the root system, and planted in a permanent place of growth. In order for the offspring to take root well, the transplant procedure should be carried out in the spring, when persistent warming is established.
Not all varieties of blackberries give offspring; this method is definitely not suitable for large-fruited blackberries and hybrids.
Blackberries, like currants, can be propagated by cuttings, that is, by propagation by parts of shoots. This method showed the best results, since one seedling can be obtained from one kidney.
If you clearly follow all the requirements of the instructions, then everything will work out.
After, the procedure is repeated, the next kidney is immersed in water and so on.
You can continue growing until spring on the windowsill or in the greenhouse.
If you put your whole soul into plant breeding, enjoy every action, then the plant will delight the eye even before planting in the garden. When there is a winter cold and severe frost outside the window, a selfless gardener will have a mini-garden of bright green blackberry bushes on the window. Moreover, when the basics of blackberry propagation are already known and understood, then not only winter Garden will be at the gardener's window, but also the harvest from his garden on the table.
» Blackberry
An amazing blackberry grows in the wild. Healing properties superior to raspberries, but in large scale it is not grown in Russia. And in the garden, blackberries are becoming increasingly popular. let's consider detailed description and instructions for proper care, cultivation, propagation and pruning of blackberry bushes at home, which will be useful to both experienced and novice gardeners.
Blackberries respond to spring frosts and low temperatures. The landing site should be chosen without access to cold winds. The best option may be western southern part house.
For upright varieties, light loams are suitable, and heavy loams for climbing species. The plant does well in sandy soil.. Temporary flooding has a detrimental effect on young shoots. To plant fruitful blackberry bushes in the country, it is undesirable to plant the crop on carbonate soils, as the plants will be deficient in iron and magnesium.
We must not forget about the previous culture. Favorable for blackberries in the garden are considered legumes, table beets, carrots, cucumbers, zucchini.
The site is prepared in a few years for planting, and left fallow. Removes weeds and pathogens. Six months before planting, in the fall, apply organic and mineral fertilizers to the ground. If the earth is saturated with nutrients, then organic matter can be excluded.
First of all, it is necessary to decide on the blackberry variety, paying attention to the climatic conditions of the place of growth: the Moscow region, Siberia or central Russia. Planting material should be chosen with a developed root system, which is best purchased in nurseries. The seedling should have 2 stems and a developed bud near the roots.
Maintain a distance of 1 meter between planting material, 2 meters in rows. This method is called tape. and suitable for varieties with high level shoot formation.
With a bushy landing a scheme of 1.8x1.8 (m) is used, 2 seedlings are planted in each hole and are acceptable for varieties with low shoot formation.
Planting material is lowered into the groove and the roots are carefully straightened. Soil with fertilizer is poured from above, the root bud is covered up to 3 cm below the soil. Upper layer the bush is mulched, compacted and watered. Under each bush you need to pour from 3 to 6 liters of water. The last step is to cut the seedling to 20 cm and remove the fruit stem.
You don’t need special knowledge on caring for blackberries to grow a healthy bush, it’s enough to fulfill the following requirements:
In the garden, blackberries propagate vegetatively (layers, offspring, cuttings). This culture can be propagated seed way . It is used to preserve the varietal characteristics of the crop.
At autumn planting it is undesirable to use organic fertilizers (humus, compost). They are what insects feed on. winter time and rodents. By spring, the seedling may die.
Hybrids and large-fruited blackberries do not produce offspring. Therefore, this method of reproduction is unacceptable for them.
Blackberry varieties without thorns are not propagated in this way. Otherwise, the plant will grow with thorns.
Blackberry bushes bear fruit only once. If the first year is spent on its full-fledged cultivation to lignified stems, then in the second year of life it blooms and bears fruit. This completes her breeding cycle. Therefore, two-year-old specimens should be disposed of and the bush should be properly formed. Because:
Young specimens should also be pruned to encourage flowering for the next season. Pruning in the fall helps to strengthen the bush, normalizes the load on it, improves aging.
Action algorithm:
Do not leave extra plants, even if they are healthy. Excessive density harms the future crop.
selected location and proper care for blackberries: top dressing, watering, pruning, processing will allow you to get high yields and delight the family with a medicinal berry.