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As soon as autumn comes flower shops put on public display pots with bright balls of chrysanthemums. Sometimes they are bought as a disposable bouquet and thrown away after flowering. But this is not the only option. A potted chrysanthemum can be successfully grown on a windowsill for many years. Or, with the onset of spring, transplant it into the OG (open ground).
For growing in room conditions and on the balconies are suitable undersized varieties Chinese or mulberry chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium). It's plentiful flowering bushes, reaching a height of 15-70 cm. They can be large-flowered (flower diameter 2.5-5 cm) or small-flowered (flower diameter up to 2.5 cm). The forms of flowering of Chinese chrysanthemums can also be different. In home culture, varieties of the “Charm” form (“Red Charm”, “Yellow Charm”, etc.) are popular, blooming with a huge hat of inflorescence baskets of different colors. Good and low "Minimum" - dwarf spray chrysanthemums, barely growing to 15-20 cm in height. But of particular interest to collectors are the so-called ampel forms "Cascade" ("White Cascade", "Pink Cascade", etc.).
In addition to mulberry chrysanthemum, low-growing varieties of Korean chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x koreanum) are cultivated indoors. The spherical shape of the bush is distinguished by Korean ones, which in the fall turn into bright flowering pillows. Popular varieties "Orange Jam", "Navare", "Stella", etc. For their resemblance to flowering balls, specimens from the multiflora series are called spherical chrysanthemums.
Korean chrysanthemums bloom profusely in pots and in open ground
On sale there are Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x indicum L.) in pots. These plants in our latitudes were originally intended for growing indoors. Their habitats: room windowsills, glazed balconies, greenhouses, winter gardens. Varieties: "Altgold", "Snow Elf", "Aurora", "Helen", etc.
Indian chrysanthemums are sissies, they can only grow indoors: in pots on the windowsill, in winter gardens, greenhouses However, when you buy a bush chrysanthemum in a pot, you do not need to know its type and variety. For any potted chrysanthemum, care at home is the same.
How to care for chrysanthemums at home?
Lighting, temperature
Home chrysanthemums, ideally, should be kept on western or eastern windows. The southern windows are too hot for them, direct sunlight provokes rapid fading. On the northern windows, the buds may not open at all. As an option, a chrysanthemum at home can be put on a ventilated, cool balcony with good lighting.
The best place for home chrysanthemum - an open balcony of a western or eastern orientation Chrysanthemum is a short daylight plant. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 9-10 hours. And this happens in the fall. Then the coolness necessary for opening the flowers of chrysanthemums appears. Similar conditions may arise in early spring, in March-April. If at this time you put your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then it is possible to re- spring bloom. Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums by artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after the required 9-10 hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard.
Optimum temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer - 20-23°, in autumn - 15-18°, in winter - 3-8°. These temperatures are ideal. With their observance, the chrysanthemum is gaining a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters. A chrysanthemum in a pot will survive the hot summer just fine if you put it in a ventilated, shaded place from the midday rays. It will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3 °.
Watering and spraying
Chrysanthemums need good watering but without excessive moisture. In other words, making a swamp in a pot is not worth it. It is also impossible to install the pot in the pan and constantly add water there. Water the chrysanthemum only after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Remember that any chrysanthemum, even in a pot, initially - garden plant. And it needs a lot of humidity. Therefore, when growing chrysanthemum, care for it should include regular spraying with water. As an alternative - the installation next to the potted chrysanthemum cans of water, pallets with wet expanded clay, an air humidifier. When growing chrysanthemums in autumn open balcony where humidity is already high, additional spraying should be avoided.
How to save chrysanthemums in winter?
In winter, the chrysanthemum should rest and gain strength before the new vegetation. You can spend the wintering of the plant:
1. In a bright, cool room (on the veranda, insulated balcony, at the entrance)
After flowering, the potted chrysanthemum is cut to 10-15 cm and put in a cool, bright room for the winter. The optimum temperature is 3-8°C. The plant is rarely watered, only after the clod of earth has dried on 2 phalanges of the finger. Usually watering is required once a month.
2. At home
If there is no cool room, the chrysanthemum can remain on the windowsill in the house in winter. In this case, the plant is pruned minimally, with the obligatory removal of faded buds, dry branches and leaves. Watering is carried out in the same way as during the growing season.
For wintering chrysanthemums in a pot, you should choose the lightest and coldest window sill in the house 3. In the basement
Chrysanthemums for the winter can be placed in the basement. This method is very popular among owners of heat-loving garden chrysanthemums, therefore it is quite suitable for their potted counterparts. To prepare the plant for wintering, all dried twigs, flowers, rotten parts are cut off. The bush is cut to a height of 10-15 cm. A couple of days before the start of wintering, the earth in a pot should be watered. By the time the chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, the ground should be slightly damp, but not damp.
4. Outdoors
Some varieties of potted chrysanthemums are able to winter in the ground with shelter. Another thing is that it is very difficult to guess whether a particular specimen will overwinter. If you decide to take a chance, with the onset of the first frost, cut the stems of chrysanthemums to a height of 10 cm and cover them with dry earth, peat or dry leaves. Top - cover with a film or other covering material. 
Home chrysanthemums: care during the growing season (spring and summer)
Already in March, the growing season should begin at home chrysanthemums. Therefore, do the following:
1. Transplant chrysanthemum into new soil
The soil for chrysanthemum should be neutral, water and moisture permeable, nutritious. Very good results are obtained by planting chrysanthemums in a substrate composed according to following scheme: turf land + garden land + sand + humus (rotted manure, chicken manure) in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1. Young chrysanthemums will require transplanting into a new, larger pot every year. Adult plants need an increase in "living space" every 2 years.
2. Expose the pot with the plant on a sunny windowsill, balcony, garden (at stable positive temperatures)
In the spring, homemade chrysanthemum can also be planted in open ground. During the summer it will grow, in the fall it will bloom profusely. In winter, it will have to be dug up, put back in a pot and sent for wintering in a frost-free room.
Home chrysanthemum does well outdoors 3. Start regular watering, fertilizing
After transplantation, the first fertilization will be needed no earlier than 2 weeks later. If humus was introduced into the substrate, you can not remember about top dressing for a month. In spring and summer, the chrysanthemum will form a bush, so fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen (N) should be selected for top dressing. Only in the middle of summer, for the formation of buds, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers will be required (mineral fertilizers “for blooming” are suitable).
4. Start shaping
When purchased, a homemade chrysanthemum usually looks like a flowering cloud of a spherical shape. In order for it to be just as decorative in the future, it will have to be shaped. New growing shoots are pinched several times. In most cases, 2-3 pinches are enough during the spring-summer period. Pinching, firstly, prevents the branches from growing beyond the formed “ball”, and, secondly, stimulates the growth of new shoots on which flower buds will be laid.
A formed chrysanthemum bush looks like a blooming ball Why doesn't the chrysanthemum bloom?
Any chrysanthemum should bloom in autumn. This law can be violated only if there are errors in caring for the plant. The most common of them are:
- Poor illumination (low intensity of light rays, too long or, conversely, short (less than 7 hours) daylight hours).
- Late pruning (pinching).
- Poor soil and lack of fertilizing (with phosphorus and potassium).
Eliminate the errors found and your potted chrysanthemum will surely thank you with lush and long flowering.
Two types of chrysanthemum are grown in pots - Chinese and shrub. In contrast to the garden view, care for chrysanthemums in pots is more complicated.
The basic and most important rule of growing is that the flower must be placed in a cool room with fresh air. Chrysanthemum does not like direct sunlight and grows well only at an air temperature of no higher than 18 degrees. Most optimum temperature content - 10-15 degrees. The flower does not tolerate heat very well, so if your indoor chrysanthemum has dropped its leaves and stopped blooming, it needs to be removed to a cool room.
Indoor chrysanthemum - care and growing conditions
To get a lushly blooming chrysanthemum, you need to create certain conditions for it.
Many flower growers consider this plant unpretentious and, nevertheless, you will have to follow some rules for caring for chrysanthemum at home:
- Lighting. A pot of chrysanthemum should not be placed in direct sunlight. The best place for it would be a well-lit window sill, and in hot weather the flowerpot is shaded.
- Air humidity. The plant does not require regular spraying from a spray bottle, but this must be done periodically. Such a light shower for a flower is arranged in the morning or in the evening. There should be no dust on the sheets of chrysanthemum.
- Watering. Abundant watering is essential for chrysanthemum, but the soil should not be damp. During the period of active growth of the plant, it should be watered twice a week so that the soil is constantly moist.
- The soil. To facilitate the care of home chrysanthemums, initially you need to make the right soil for planting. To do this, mix sod land, humus and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1. Chrysanthemum does not like acidic soil.
Caring for chrysanthemums in pots: transplanting and reproduction
Young chrysanthemums need to be transplanted into a pot every year. bigger size. Transshipment of an adult plant is done every two years. The soil should be the same as in the previous pot. If you wish to receive abundant flowering plants, you can add a little bird droppings to the soil. Be sure to make sure that the soil is not acidic, otherwise the chrysanthemum will not grow well and will not bloom. In order to prevent diseases, the soil can be spilled with boiling water and dried.
Many consider the chrysanthemum an annual plant and throw it away after flowering. In vain. You can save the chrysanthemum and even propagate it.
How to care for room chrysanthemum after flowering?
There is nothing complicated here - the stems need to be cut and put the pot in a cool and dark place. At the time of pruning, the plant may give young shoots, they are left in a pot. A pot of chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, periodically watering it. In the spring, you can start breeding chrysanthemums.
You can dilute your favorite indoor chrysanthemum using cuttings or by dividing the bush. And last way most preferred due to the reliability and success of the event.
During the period of intensive growth of shoots, you can begin to reproduce the flower. One bush of room chrysanthemum is capable of producing up to 6 young shoots. Pots are prepared in advance for planting, filled with soil. Carefully separating root system young shoot, it is planted in a pot and watered abundantly. Subject to the rules for caring for indoor chrysanthemums, the plant will bloom in the first year after planting.
Chrysanthemum cuttings require more time. Cuttings 10 cm long are cut from the bush, which are treated with heteroauxin or root and planted in a pot.
The cutting is deepened by 1.5 cm, and the pot is covered with a film. Seedlings are kept in a warm room with a temperature of about 20 degrees. Periodically, the pots need to be ventilated to prevent the development of fungal diseases. When the chrysanthemum grows to 15 cm, its top must be pinched to form a bush.
Top dressing of chrysanthemums
It is not enough just to plant an indoor chrysanthemum in good soil and water it periodically. Like any plant, chrysanthemum quickly picks up nutrients from the soil. Therefore, if you have a room chrysanthemum, care must necessarily include periodic top dressing.
Chrysanthemum responds well to the application of mineral fertilizers. With untimely feeding with phosphorus and potassium, the chrysanthemum blooms later than usual. To prevent this from happening, the flower is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate (1:10) or another multicomponent fertilizer is used, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.
An adult plant is fed every 10 days during the active growth of shoots and leaves. It is best to use liquid organic matter. If the soil in the pot is depleted, top dressing is carried out every 4 days with mullein (1:10). You need to feed the chrysanthemum until the buds are formed.
Disease control
indoor chrysanthemum- a tasty flower for pests and diseases. Especially often on the bushes of indoor chrysanthemums settles spider mite. If during the care of indoor chrysanthemums you find a white cobweb, you need to take urgent action. The leaves and stem of the plant are wiped with a sponge dipped in soapy water, after which the bush is rinsed under a warm shower. Actellik or pyrethrum solution will help get rid of spider mites.
Powdery mildew is another most common disease of indoor chrysanthemums. A gray coating is formed on the leaves and peduncles. This fungal infection is caused by high humidity air. The affected flower is treated with a fungicide and taken out to a dry room.
Sometimes flower growers notice a fluffy ash-colored coating on their room chrysanthemum. This gray rot multiplies, causing the edges of the chrysanthemum leaf to turn brown and brown spots appear on them. For treatment, the flower is sprayed with foundationazole, and the pot is placed in a sunny, well-ventilated place.
If the room is too dry, a red spider mite can settle on a room chrysanthemum. Brown spots with a border yellow color on the leaves they will tell you about the defeat of the flower by septoria. Fundazol treatment and reduced watering of the plant will help to cope with diseases.
Growing chrysanthemum at home - video
During autumn time, flower shops put up a lot of flowers for sale. Including chrysanthemums is no exception, since it is autumn flower and it blooms only at this time. They are very often given and bought already cut, but few people know that these flowers can be grown at home. And in the spring, some varieties can be planted in the country and enjoy their smell and flowering in the fall.
Chrysanthemum is a plant with abundant flowering bushes and small-flowered or large-flowered buds that bloom in autumn. There are a very large number of flower varieties, but not every species can be grown at home.
Home chrysanthemum loves cool temperatures and short sunny days. It is less capricious, it does not need to be placed on the windowsill or on the balcony. From abundant heat over 18 degrees and direct sun rays growing chrysanthemums in pots is overshadowed by a short flowering period, drying of buds,.
Chrysanthemums in pots love moisture, so do not allow the soil and root system to dry out. If you do not water the indoor flower, then it will die, but you do not need to fill it either.
The chrysanthemum zembla belongs to perennial plant, which feels great both at home and outdoors in a normal environment. It begins to bloom in early September with large buds and pleases different colors. It is believed that the chrysanthemum zembla is a loner, more than 1 bud is formed on the stem, and the length reaches 12 centimeters in diameter. And after cutting, flowers in a vase can stand for up to three weeks.
Chrysanthemum zembla comes in many varieties:
- zembla lilac;
- zembla white;
- zembla lime;
- zembla vip;
- earth is purple.
Chrysanthemum deco. Japan is the birthplace of this flower. The inhabitants of this country consider this flower a symbol of their country and believe that the morning dew at the flower is an elixir of youth.
Deco is a great competitor to white roses and is sometimes used for a bride's bouquet. Because they are just as complimentary of innocence and purity.
It can also be grown on suburban area in a permanent place like perennial flowers, wrapping them warmer for the winter.
Not only deco chrysanthemums require the same care as indoor chrysanthemums, but mix chrysanthemums also require proper care will rejoice with their mix buds in the autumn season, like a ray of summer light.
Gallery: indoor chrysanthemum (25 photos)
Home care
The care of a chrysanthemum in a pot includes the following items:
- lighting;
- temperature;
- watering;
- spraying.
How to care for a homemade chrysanthemum in a pot depends on its health and beauty. for spring and summer time indoor flower is recommended to be placed on well-ventilated balconies or placed in the shade at their summer cottage.
Temperature. The temperature regime is very important for a flower. When deciding how to care for a room chrysanthemum, it is worth considering the control of the room temperature. Each season has its own temperature: in summer from 20–23 degrees, in autumn from -3 to -8 degrees. Subject to the temperature, chrysanthemums grow and delight with their flowering.
Watering. Chrysanthemums need good watering, but they should not be flooded. Among the recommendations on how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, there is a ban on pouring water into the pan. Such a procedure will lead to a disease of the root system. Water 1-2 times a week or when dry. upper layer soil.
Spraying. When caring for chrysanthemum home condition spraying with a special spraying device, which can be purchased at the store, is very important. In summer, you can put jars with cold water, and in the autumn, additional spraying is not necessary.
How to transplant a chrysanthemum
If you decide to breed these flowers, then you need to know how to transplant chrysanthemums and what soil to choose. Since these plants begin to bloom in autumn, it is better to transplant in the spring. You can perform the procedure in the fall after flowering and pruning for the winter.
Transplanting chrysanthemums in the spring allows a capricious plant to get used to a new pot over the summer. If the chrysanthemum is young, then it should be transplanted every year for about three years, and then it can be done once every two years.
Soil is of great importance for chrysanthemums. It can be purchased at a special store or the same soil can be prepared at home. To do this, mix:
- two parts of soddy soil;
- one part of sheet soil;
- one part of humus;
- one part sand.
Mix the soil and warm it well in the oven, this method kills pests and fungi that can load the flower. And you can also add a little bit of chicken manure, the main thing is not to overdo it so that the earth does not become acidic. The addition of chicken manure has a positive effect on the root system of the flower.
Take a pot with a larger diameter than it was, lay out the bottom with pebbles or expanded clay. This must be done in order to have a drainage layer.
You need to be very careful and careful. Carefully pull the plant out of the old pot, shake off unnecessary soil. All actions are performed carefully so as not to damage the root system. After that, place the flower in new pot, carefully fill in the soil prepared in advance. Lightly tamp the soil, and then shed well.
How to transplant a store plant
The decision on when to transplant chrysanthemums from the store is made by the flowers themselves. They report their readiness by adapting to the temperature regime and lighting in the new home. If you purchased a chrysanthemum in autumn period and the flower is still blooming, then it is better to transplant closer to winter.
If the chrysanthemum was bought in winter period, then it is better to transplant in the first month of spring.
It happens that cut flowers that have stood in a vase have sprouted, they can be kept in another water, and then planted in a pot. And observe all temperature regimes, air humidity. And most importantly - do not put on the balcony under direct sunlight.
It is very important at the first transplant to choose the soil already ready in a specialized store.
Reasons for the lack of flowering
In autumn, chrysanthemums bloom and delight with their aroma, as if they give a small piece of summer in winter. But it may also happen that the chrysanthemum did not bloom, although it looks healthy, and the leaves are green and saturated. Why there is no flowering is often not understood even by experienced florists. Non-flowering of a capricious plant may be due to the following reasons:
- wrong choice of varieties;
- flaw nutrients;
- bad light;
- crown formation;
- home warmth;
- pests and diseases.
Wrong choice of variety. Often, plants bought in a store do not bloom at home, they are like flower growers and transplanted and properly cared for, but the flower never blooms. This can happen precisely due to the fact that the variety is incorrectly selected. For example, a florist is busy with a flower intended for growing outdoors and does not require additional care. Such a plant does not bloom at home.
So that there is no erroneous outcome in the fall, when buying, it is worth consulting with the seller of the store.
Bad light. If selected right flower, and in the fall it did not bloom, then perhaps the wrong lighting solution. Due to lack of light, the plant will not open its buds. You need to choose the right lighting or add some light objects.
Nutrient deficiencies. This is one of the reasons for the lack of bud formation. Properly chosen top dressing for the plant will help the capricious plant to bloom. But overfeeding is also very harmful. An overfed chrysanthemum will not rush to bloom, but will grow. Top dressing should include phosphorus and nitrogen.
Crown formation. All indoor flowers need pruning and pinching, otherwise they will not bloom. Start pinching chrysanthemums from the first year of young shoots. And also, if the flowers begin to fade, then you need to cut them off so that the plant does not waste its strength in vain.
Home warmth. Temperature conditions can affect the failure of flowering. In order for the flowers to bloom on time and delight with their beauty, it is necessary to maintain the temperature at 20 degrees during this period. And after flowering, it is necessary to cut the plant and put it in a cool place until spring.
There is another terrible disease - routine ticks. As soon as the first signs of this disease appear, it is urgent to begin treatment. First, wash each leaf with warm water, and pinch off each damaged leaf.
Flowers chrysanthemums (lat. Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family, or Asteraceae. The genus includes about 30 species, whose representatives grow in areas with cool and temperate climate and mostly in Asia. In garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for over a thousand years, and the plant came to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.
Planting and caring for chrysanthemum
- Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
- Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
- Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
- Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
- Air humidity: recommended morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle.
- Top dressing: during the period of active growth, adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When fertilizing with organic solutions in a weak concentration, intervals of 4 days are observed. With the beginning of the formation of buds, feeding is stopped.
- rest period: after flowering is complete, cut off the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to produce new shoots.
- Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
- Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely - seeds.
- Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits.
- Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.
Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.
Home flower chrysanthemum - features
Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, because it is grown by artificially stopping growth with specially designed preparations. Although there have been cases that a garden-sized plant was obtained from an acquired cutting of a home chrysanthemum.
Usually indoor chrysanthemum is a low-growing variety of mulberry chrysanthemum, or Chinese, which are profusely flowering bushes from 15 to 70 cm high. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, moreover the same varieties of home chrysanthemums differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.
Chrysanthemum blooms at home usually in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, it should be created for the plant optimal conditions and respect certain rules care.
Chrysanthemum care at home
How to care for chrysanthemums
What conditions of detention does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemum in the apartment? Firstly, it is necessary to establish a temperature regime that is comfortable for her, secondly, to observe the required level of illumination, and thirdly, to maintain the optimal water balance for the flower.
It is difficult to call a chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in the autumn-spring period - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is in compliance with this temperature regime many buds are tied, and the flowering of chrysanthemum is long and plentiful.
As for lighting, growing chrysanthemum in a pot is carried out on the windowsills of windows oriented to the east or west, since flowers on the southern windows can wither from excess sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.
During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a dense and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.
Watering chrysanthemums
Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly damp all the time. Caring for a chrysanthemum at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and pan.
In the hot season, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.
Chrysanthemum transplant
Caring for homemade chrysanthemum in pots involves the annual transplantation of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years.
As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, she does not like it. Before filling a new pot with soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be placed in it, and the substrate should be shed with boiling water and dried.
Top dressing of chrysanthemums
Caring for home chrysanthemum requires fertilizing the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements, since potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2.
Chrysanthemum also responds well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires mineral fertilizers to be applied to the soil every 10 days, and a mullein solution (1 part of fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum up to the beginning of the formation of buds.
Chrysanthemum care after flowering
As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the plant pot in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.
Reproduction of chrysanthemum in the apartment
Reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings
The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is with green non-lignified cuttings. As cuttings, side shoots about 10 cm long are cut from the branch, the leaves are removed from their lower part and then the cuttings are placed in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several times in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, pinch the tops of the cuttings.
You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create Greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensate is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.
Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush
During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is taken out of the pot, the root system is carefully freed from the soil, washed and the plant is divided with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Sections on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.
Growing chrysanthemums from seeds
How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? The best thing seed way Korean varieties and hybrids are propagated. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate roasted at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. As a substrate, you can also use store-bought flower ground, which should also be disinfected before planting.
close up seeds perennial varieties it is not necessary, they are only lightly pressed against the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, airing, removing condensate from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as necessary.
Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.
At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to take care of them, already as adult plants.
As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing chrysanthemums blooming in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.
Pests and diseases of chrysanthemums
Chrysanthemum diseases
Under the wrong conditions and improper care chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.
Powdery mildew is manifested by a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. Disease-causing fungi are destroyed by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skora or other fungicidal preparations.
Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow border that occur on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. A diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Kuproksat, Oksikhoma or copper sulphate. Chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure that it is healthy.
Gray rot, or botrytis, also has a fungal nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the tissues of the plant die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.
Chrysanthemum pests
Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits are dangerous for chrysanthemums.
Aphids, thrips and pennits are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insecticidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.
As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on the chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves.
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Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum) - herbaceous flowering plant from the Astrov family. The genus includes about 30 species and many varieties. They are most often found in temperate latitudes. Most types of chrysanthemums grow in Asia. China is considered the birthplace of the flower, where it has been cultivated for more than 1 thousand years. It came to Europe in the 17th century.
Most chrysanthemums are grown outdoors. But there are species that grow well in pots at room conditions. To grow a healthy, beautiful and abundantly flowering plant, it is necessary to provide it with the right care.
Types and varieties of home chrysanthemum
4 types of chrysanthemum are suitable for growing at home, as well as varieties derived from them, of which there are more than 100.
Chinese
Perennial plant with a height of 0.3-1.3 m. The stems are erect, they are lanceolate or oval, 7 cm long. The flowers are simple and double, collected in large baskets.
Shrub
Native to the Canary Islands. It is a shrub up to 1 m high. The shoots are erect, thin and branched. The leaf plates are fleshy, oval or lanceolate, 7 cm long. Terry inflorescences, 5 cm in diameter.
Indian
Not tall bush arnica up to 25 cm, ideal for growing in a pot. Leaves are toothed, grey-green. The inflorescence is shaped like a chamomile. Flowers are pink or white.
Popular varieties of Indian chrysanthemum:
- Helen
- Aurora,
- Altgold.
Korean
plant of hybrid origin. It blooms with bright globular flowers.
Popular varieties:
- Stele,
- Navarre.
hybrid
Breeders have bred many new hybrid varieties indoor chrysanthemums. Conventionally, they can be divided into several groups, depending on the shape of the bush:
- herbaceous;
- spherical;
- shrubby;
- cascading.
The most common varieties of hybrid chrysanthemums:
How to choose a potted chrysanthemum in the store and what to do after purchase
For growing in a pot, you need to choose only those varieties of chrysanthemums that are fully adapted for the premises. Very often in nurseries where chrysanthemums are bred for sale, they are treated with agents that inhibit growth for greater bushiness and decorativeness. But after the purchase, it may be that the plant will turn into a large tall bush. Therefore, you need to be careful when choosing a variety.
Important! Even before buying it is important to inspect the chrysanthemum. It should not have stains, damage, pests. At home, put a flowerpot for 1 week separately from others indoor plants. Quarantine is necessary to prevent infection by insects or infections that may infect the crop.
Home care
Chrysanthemum is familiar to most as a garden crop. So how do you grow it? indoor views, not every grower knows. Regardless of the variety, the features of flower care do not differ.
Location and lighting
Indoor chrysanthemums love light with a short daylight hours. It should last for a flower about 8-9 hours. It is when the day is shortening that the chrysanthemum blooms. Some flower growers artificially shorten daylight hours by covering the bush with an opaque cap to speed up flowering.
A bright, diffused light should fall on the plant. It is better to place the pot on the western or eastern windows. On the south side, the chrysanthemum will quickly fade. And direct rays are detrimental to the leaves. On the northern windows it may not bloom at all. You can take the chrysanthemum to a cool, well-lit balcony.
soil and pot
The flower should grow in neutral soil, which passes water and air well. Suitable purchased substrate for flowering crops.
You can prepare the soil mixture yourself. You need to take:
- turf (4);
- garden soil (4);
- sand (1);
- humus (1).
Before use, the soil must be disinfected.
The root system of chrysanthemum is superficial. Therefore, she needs a pot that is shallow, but wide. The bottom should be lined with a sufficiently thick layer of drainage. Suitable small pebbles, expanded clay, broken shards.
Landing and transplant
Young plants need an annual transplant. Adult chrysanthemums need 1 transplant every 2 years.
Transplant procedure:
- Take a pot a few centimeters larger than the old one. Put a drain in it.
- Remove the bush along with the ground, place in the center of the new container.
- Sprinkle the space between the walls of the pot and the plant with soil. Lightly tamp it down.
- Plentifully water the bush, and put it on a shaded place for a while to adapt.
Step-by-step video - instructions for transplanting potted Chrysanthemums:
Temperature
During the growing season indoor chrysanthemum develops well at a temperature of +20..23°C. In autumn, when flowering occurs, it is lowered to +15..18°С. In winter, the flower needs rest. It is kept in conditions of +3..8°C. Not bad the plant tolerates hot weather in summer. But it is better to place it in a well-ventilated place and shade from the sun.
Watering and humidity
Chrysanthemums in pots require regular watering. But do not over-moisten the soil. Allow it to dry out a bit between waterings. If the plant does not have enough moisture, it will wither, and if it is in excess, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear.
Humidity should be in the range of 65-80%. If the room is hot, chrysanthemum can be sprayed. It is better to do it in the morning or in the evening. You can install a humidifier. Give the plant a warm shower from time to time. In autumn, when kept in cool conditions, spraying is not required.
Top dressing and fertilizers
For intensive growth and abundant flowering, it is necessary to regularly apply complex top dressing. Compositions in which the ratio of phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen is 3:2:1 are suitable. You can feed potted chrysanthemum with liquid organic fertilizers. Fertilizers are applied every 7-10 days. From November, when flowering ends, top dressing is stopped.
flowering period
Chrysanthemums bloom in autumn. Flowering can last over a month with proper care. In order to have more flowers, it is recommended to pinch three times during the entire growing season. To ensure abundant flowering, the chrysanthemum needs to be provided with nutritious soil, a temperature of +15..18 degrees, daylight hours of about 8 hours.
Pruning and rejuvenation
It is recommended to prune indoor chrysanthemum twice a year. In the spring, 2 weeks after transplantation, it is recommended to carry out shaping pruning for a beautiful crown. Tops with 3-4 leaves are cut off from the stems. This stimulates the growth of side shoots. After the procedure, apply nitrogen fertilizer. A month later, pruning is done again. Spherical varieties do not need to be pinched. Another major pruning is carried out in the fall after flowering. It is necessary to remove all dry, damaged shoots. Shorten the rest of the stems to 10-15 cm.
Reproduction methods
There are several ways to propagate indoor chrysanthemum.
cuttings
Cut off lateral, non-lignified cuttings 10 cm long with 3-4 internodes. Delete lower leaves. Put in water for rooting, add activated charcoal to it. You can root the plant in a loose substrate with neutral acidity. Treat the cuttings with a root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Heteroauxin). Deepen into the substrate by 1.5 cm. Pour with warm, soft water. Cover with a film on top and put in a bright place at a temperature of about +20 degrees.
Remove the shelter daily for ventilation, removal of condensate. After the roots appear, transplant the cuttings into separate pots. When they grow to 15-20 cm, it is recommended to pinch the tops to stimulate the growth of side shoots.
The division of the bush
The procedure is best done in the spring during a chrysanthemum transplant. Remove the bush from the pot. Carefully remove the soil from the roots, rinse them. Cut the plant with a disinfected tool into several sections, leaving several shoots and developed roots on each. Sprinkle cut areas activated carbon. Plant them in individual pots and care for them as if they were mature plants.
seeds
More often, the seed propagation method is used for hybrids and varieties. Korean chrysanthemum. Fill a shallow container with a mixture of peat and humus. Ignite it in the oven at 120-130°C. Spread the seeds over the surface, lightly press them into the soil. Moisten the crops with a spray bottle and cover them with a film. Put the container in a bright place at a temperature of +23..25°C.
Systematically ventilate crops and remove condensate. When shoots appear, they need to be accustomed to natural aeration. Increase ventilation time gradually. It is necessary to dive seedlings when 2-4 true leaves are formed. The procedure is carried out carefully so as not to injure the roots. Be sure to put drainage in the pots.
Features of seasonal care
Like garden views, indoor chrysanthemums develop with the same seasonal cycle. During the growing season, which lasts from spring to the end of autumn, it is recommended to provide the plant with sufficient lighting, regular feeding, and watering. Maintain air humidity at 65-80%. For the onset of flowering, the chrysanthemum should slightly lower the air temperature, shorten the daylight hours.
In winter, culture needs rest to gain strength. Wintering can be organized in different ways:
- In a bright, cool room(balcony, entrance). Trim the bush to 10-15 cm. Keep at a temperature of +3..8°C. You can only water the soil once a month.
- In the room. If it is not possible to find a cool room, you can leave the plant on the windowsill, closer to the glass, but away from the heaters. Pruning is carried out minimally, only dry buds and shoots are removed. Leave watering the same as during the growing season. Ventilate the room more often.
- In the basement. Cut the bush before wintering to 10-15 cm. A few days before sending the chrysanthemum to the basement, water the soil. It should be damp, but not wet. In early spring, a flower pot can be brought into the room, transplanted and placed in a well-lit place.
Care errors and their elimination
Problems in growing Chrysanthemums and their elimination:
|
Problem |
Causes |
Solution |
|
Yellowing leaves |
Lack of light, lack of moisture, hot air |
Place the flower in bright, diffused light, control the length of daylight hours, spray the leaves in the heat |
|
wilting leaves |
Wrong watering |
Water the plant regularly, but in moderation, do not overmoisten or overdry the soil |
|
No flowering |
Too hot air, poor soil, no pinching |
Before flowering, lower the temperature to +15 degrees, apply complex fertilizers during the growing season, pinch the tops of the stems to stimulate the growth of side shoots |
Diseases and pests, control methods
If you regularly violate the rules of agricultural technology, the chrysanthemum can be affected by a number of diseases and pests.
Fungal infections:
- rust;
- septoria;
- gray rot.
A favorable environment for their appearance is excessive soil moisture, too cold air during the growing season. Treatment of fungal diseases is carried out with the help of fungicides (Fitosporin, Fundazol). With significant lesions, the bush is best destroyed.
Viral infections:
- aspermia;
- ring spot;
- seedlessness;
- mosaic spotting.
There are no treatments for these diseases. Affected chrysanthemums must be disposed of along with the soil. Disinfect the pot in which she grew up.
Of the pests, indoor chrysanthemum is more often affected by leaf nematodes, thrips
In China and Japan, petals are added to food, tea is brewed from them. They contain zinc, potassium, calcium and other trace elements that have a beneficial effect on the nervous, cardiovascular, digestive systems.
Tea from chrysanthemum petals has healing properties:
- strengthens the immune system;
- normalizes the work of the digestive tract;
- improves the condition of the joints;
- neutralizes free radicals;
- cleanses the liver.
With caution, you should use products with chrysanthemum for allergy sufferers. Exclude them for pregnant women and children. Before introducing compositions with chrysanthemum into the diet, you need to consult a doctor. It contains many biologically active substances, which, if used uncontrolled, can harm the body.
Chrysanthemum is one of the most popular plants that pleases with its flowering when other flowers have already wilted. For many, it is familiar as a garden crop. But some species are successfully grown in pots at room conditions. Thanks to varietal diversity you can choose a chrysanthemum to your liking. Culture is easy to manage. Anyone can grow it with a little attention.
From the following video, you can learn more recommendations for the care of potted Chrysanthemum:
