Rose cultivation and care. plant transplant method

Agrotechnics for growing roses in open field on the picture

Agrotechnics for growing roses in open ground involves the timely pinching of strongly growing shoots - this way you can adjust the shape of the bush. Sometimes only one eye under the pruning site gives a shoot that grows very long, which spoils the appearance of the whole plant, especially in. When such a shoot appears in May, it is likely that the first early flower may soon appear at the end of it.

Nevertheless, it is better to donate it, and pinch the young shoot, leaving 3-4 eyes, from which new stems will grow, suitable for forming a beautiful crown of the plant. A pinched rose in the same year will give more than one flower, although a little later.

Sometimes the shoot of a rose ends with a single leaf without an eye. The flower is no longer formed here. In order to grow roses correctly, as practice shows, such a so-called "blind" shoot must be cut off above the nearest leaf, where there is a healthy eye, and then a new shoot capable of flowering will grow from it later.

If the rose was planted incorrectly and was not properly cared for, it can give rosehip shoots below the place of budding. The leaves of these shoots, in contrast to the leaves of cultivated varieties, are lighter, of a different size and with a different number of leaflets. They have other spikes.

To grow beautiful roses like in a nursery, you need to remove these wild shoots. To do this, open the root neck of the bush and part of the roots, carefully cut the shoots at the very root. Sometimes it is enough to escape, if he is young, just to snatch. However, by cutting it off at the surface of the earth, as is often done, the gardener, on the contrary, awakens the shoot to more intensive growth and branching.

These photos of growing and caring for roses show how to properly pinch:

Agricultural technology for growing roses in the photo
Pinching roses in the photo

• Beginner gardeners often have problems - they planted a rose, and after 2-3 years it turned into a "wild". Know that a rose bush cannot be reborn into a wild rose. It’s just that you didn’t cut out the wild root shoots in a timely manner, and it “strangled” the cultivated part of the plant. Especially follow the roses in the first years after, later the root is older and less wild shoots form on it.
• When growing own-rooted roses, there is no need to remove wild shoots and the cost of planting material is significantly reduced.

Watch a video on how to grow roses in your garden:

How to grow beautiful garden roses: proper watering during care

The role of watering in the care of roses is not as great as for others. garden plants. Because they put their roots deep into the ground and from there they get the necessary moisture, the bushes look fresh and healthy even when the leaves on other shrubs wither due to prolonged heat.

But how to grow healthy roses on the site if the summer drought period has dragged on? This often happens in the southern region in June, July and August. In this case, roses are highly desirable watering at least once a month. The norm is 20-30 liters per plant or per 1 m2 of rose garden area. Own-rooted roses often need watering, as well as those growing on too light or sandy, permeable soil that does not retain moisture well.

Proper watering of roses is performed only in the morning and evening hours. The best way watering - by inlet (the hose is placed directly to the bush itself and water is let in under low pressure so that it flows out slowly). Short watering with strong water pressure will not help, because the moisture will not reach the roots of the plant, it will remain only in the top layer of the soil and quickly evaporate without benefiting the bushes.

For better conservation of moisture and air exchange in the soil, loosening is necessary after each watering and rain.

When watering roses, remember that the less water gets on the leaves, the better, it is advisable not to irrigate them at all. Foliage that remains wet for a long time is more at risk of infection with fungal diseases (black spot, powdery mildew, botrytis - gray rot, etc.).

Although roses often grow well without watering, be aware that with sufficient soil moisture, stronger and more abundantly flowering bushes develop.

How to grow roses in the garden yourself: the better to mulch the bushes

Mulching plays an important role in the agricultural technology of growing roses - covering the soil around the bush with a 3-5 cm layer of peat, sawdust. How else to mulch roses in the garden? For this purpose, you can use humus, compost or mowed lawn grass. Mulch in the spring, immediately after breaking up and pruning bushes or loosening the soil around uncovered varieties.

In order to grow roses yourself, as practice shows, mulching material in late autumn, along with the soil, will also good stuff for shelter (hilling) of bushes. For one or two years sawdust and mowed grass will be overgrown and become good organic fertilizer, as humus, compost and partially peat.

At proper care during the cultivation of roses in the garden on mulched areas, the soil structure is significantly improved. The earth becomes looser, does not compact during irrigation, does not form a crust, the number of weeds is significantly reduced, the harmful effect of overheating of the soil on the root system is eliminated, roots develop better, and wild growth (rosehip) appears less, on which most varieties are grafted. Mulching is especially effective in areas where watering is not possible.

Growing and caring for roses: proper pruning in spring (with video)

Pruning bushes is one of the most important ways to care for roses in the garden. The decorativeness of plants, the splendor of their flowering, the intensity of damage by pests and diseases, and, finally, longevity depend on pruning.

Pruning roses when caring for plants is performed at least three times a year (spring, summer and autumn). The most important pruning is spring.

After removing the shelter, when the buds swelling on the shoots are clearly visible, the bushes are thinned out. Such pruning of roses in the spring is to remove dying and unnecessary branches and shoots that are not important for flowering. As a result of the removal of excess shoots, the plant will send more nutrients to those shoots that can use them with greater effect for flowering.

Simultaneously with correct pruning roses in the spring, the remaining shoots are also shortened in order to awaken the lower buds to growth, which ensure flowering. In this case, we give the plant the opportunity to direct nutrients on the development of flowers to achieve the highest quality.

When shortening, depending on the group of roses, pruning is short, medium and long. The cut is made above the eye, looking outward of the bush. In order for the plant to form correctly, young shoots should not grow inside the bush.

How to prune roses to form a beautiful bush? The cut should be perfectly smooth and pass 0.5 cm above the kidney with a slight slope in the opposite direction from it. Sections must be immediately covered with garden pitch, then moisture will not linger on them, and the risk of various infections penetrating through fresh wounds will decrease. When working, avoid flattening and injuring the tissues of the plant, do not allow the bark to break.

When cut short, remove most escape with leaving a hemp with about 2-3 eyes. With medium or less short pruning, 4-8 eyes are left. With long pruning, only the top of the shoot is removed, and the number of eyes can be indefinite. AT this case the thickness of the shoots plays a role.

Most of the varieties grown by gardeners need short pruning. They endure heavy pruning without any damage to their livelihoods.

When leaving during the cultivation of garden roses, they are subjected to short pruning hybrid tea varieties- small-colored and large-colored and undersized varieties other groups.

Medium and less short pruning is enough remontant varieties(with the exception of undersized ones, which are also cut short) and some vigorous varieties of hybrid tea and other groups.

When pruning for all roses, thinning of the bushes is mandatory. At the same time, weak, deformed (unnaturally curved), broken, dying shoots, as well as those with signs of damage or are completely removed. They are cut off at the very base, leaving no stumps. Damaged stems are shortened to healthy tissue (with a white core).

There are four types of spring pruning of roses: preventive, thinning, shaping and rejuvenating. Do preventive pruning in early spring to eradicate fungal diseases. Thinning is carried out in spring and summer, removing old shoots with fading growth and branches growing inside the bush. This pruning promotes abundant flowering. It is also used to rejuvenate old park and bushes.

There are three types of shaping pruning: strong, medium, and light.

With strong pruning, 1-2 well-developed buds are left on the shoot, with medium pruning - 3-6, with weak pruning, only the tops of the shoots are removed.

As a rule, strong pruning is used for polyanthus and miniature roses, medium pruning for hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses, weak pruning for park and climbing roses.

Immediately after spring pruning, preventive spraying is carried out from harmful organisms if the kidneys are dormant, with copper or iron sulphate (100-150 g per 10 liters of water), if a green cone has formed (the kidneys have started to grow) - 3% Bordeaux liquid or its substitutes ("Abiga-Peak", "Oksihom" , "Copper oxychloride", etc.).

The video "Care, cultivation and pruning of roses" clearly demonstrates how the spring formation of a bush is performed:

How to grow roses on the site and how to cut the bushes in the summer

All roses tend to develop many extra weak shoots. Among them there are "blind" who do not carry a flower. Leaving all the shoots on the bush in summer is useless and even harmful, as they lead to excessive thickening of the bush. How to prune roses in summer correctly? To do this, it is necessary at the beginning of summer to cut into a ring (to the base) shoots directed inside the bush, underdeveloped and "blind". And then spend the summer pruning, depending on the purpose for which you grow roses: for flower decoration garden or suburban area or receiving commercial cut flowers.

In September, it is necessary to stop cutting flowers, and starting from the second half of the month, do not water or loosen the soil around the bushes. Weeds must be removed. Then the shoots will ripen better and wintering will be successful. Even before the first frost, it would be good to spud roses with loose earth. That's all the preparatory operations.

With the onset of persistent cold weather, before covering the roses for the winter, you need to remove all the leaves from the bushes, then cut off the diseased, weak and unripe shoots and shorten the healthy ones to 40 cm.

The second period falls on late autumn - the beginning of winter, when the air temperature is set within -2 ... -3 ° С. At this time, plant cells are dehydrated, starch turns into sugars and fats, which helps to reduce the freezing point of plant tissue.

When caring for roses before shelter, the bushes are sprayed with 2% iron sulfate from fungal infections.

In the southern region, it is quite enough to cover the roses with loose soil, making mounds 15-20 cm high.

Hilling more than 20 cm is impractical, since in winters with frequent thaws it impairs air access to the stems of the bushes.

Most gardeners, when hilling roses, take the ground right there, near the plants. In this case, pits are formed, grooves deep on the bayonet of a shovel, the most damaged and exposed active part root system. This ultimately leads to inhibition of growth and weak flowering of bushes, since nutrition does not come from the most fertile soil layer.

You should know that root system in traditional spray roses grafted on wild roses, it develops mainly in the surface horizon to a depth of 50-60 cm. And in the upper soil layer (8-10 cm), horizontal roots spread 80-100 cm away from the bush. There are, of course, and vertical roots that go as deep as 1.5 m, but they supply mainly water.

In addition to mechanical damage to the roots, in the pits formed around the bushes, water stagnates and freezes in the autumn-winter months, which further damages the roots. Therefore, you can not expose the roots of roses.

As shown in the photo, in order to cover the roses for the winter, the soil for hilling must be taken elsewhere or the bushes should be covered with humus, peat, compost, leafy soil, and finally with sand, sawdust or leaf litter, and on top with material such as agrotex:

Shelter under the film of roses for the winter (photo)
In the photo shelter roses for the winter

In the central zone of Russia, all groups of roses without special shelter for the winter suffer greatly, and sometimes freeze completely.

South of the central strip of Russia, the most winter-hardy are park roses that do not need shelter for the winter. Then come the polyanthus and hybrid-polyanthus, which require moderate cover, and then the hybrid tea, which needs the most thorough cover.

How to cover roses correctly so that they successfully overwinter? To do this, another layer of tree foliage or spruce branches is applied over the hilling, and sometimes a film or roofing material, so that the shelter does not get wet.

When sheltering roses for the winter, do not use polyethylene film, as condensation forms on it, which increases humidity and contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Film does not skip Fresh air, heat stagnates in the sun under it, and the next cold snap affects the plants even more severely.

• Wild roses and single-blooming shrub roses do not need any special protection for the winter. They are hardy enough to withstand all bad weather. Even if any of the shoots dies from frost, just cut it off in the spring as low as possible.
• Shelter for the winter (spud with earth by 15-20 cm) should be just planted bushes, as well as roses that bloom again.
• Sudden changes in temperature during the winter months are more dangerous for roses than just extreme cold.

The video "How to cover roses for the winter" shows how to protect the bushes from frost:

How and when to remove cover from roses in spring

Many novice flower growers are interested in when to remove cover from roses in the spring. This should not be done right away. As soon as the soil thaws and shakes, the hillock that has compacted during the winter is slightly loosened. This will provide better air access to the plants and will help dry out the shelter layer. With the onset of warm weather, the buds of roses quickly swell and start growing. It is necessary to unravel roses not immediately, but in parts, in order to delay the development of roses as much as possible, and most importantly, to protect them from recurrent night frosts.

In order to prevent a fungal infection at this time, spray the bushes with Bordeaux liquid (3% if the buds are dormant, or 1% if they have already begun to grow). This spraying will help keep the shoots moldy over the winter, but still alive.

If you know when to remove the shelter from roses in the spring, keep in mind that it is also dangerous to be late with the opening of the bushes, because the tender shoots that have sprouted without access to light will immediately fall under the influence of direct sunlight, wind and may die.

In such cases, one gets sunburn bark, it turns brown, cracks and begins to peel off; shoots dry up, the plant dies. Therefore, it is necessary to finally unwind the roses on a cloudy day, and if the sun appears, shade the bushes that have started to grow nonwoven fabric(agril, agrotex, green-tex, etc.). Keep this material ready and in case you cover the bushes at night in case of an unexpected frost.

It is known that hybrid tea roses have an increased ability to restore damaged shoots, since the bushes have in the lower part of the shoots a large number of"Sleeping" spare buds, from which new shoots develop. From spring, such bushes need to be given 1-2 fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer (urea - 20-25 g per 1 m2 with an interval of 12-15 days), keep the soil moist (in the absence of precipitation - regular watering of at least 10 liters of water per bush). This will contribute to the restoration of vital activity and the rapid growth of young shoots in roses.

Severely affected, especially in harsh winters, do not rush to throw out rose bushes in the spring, even if others nearby have already begun to grow, and these are still without signs of life. If they were planted correctly (the place of budding is 5-7 cm below ground level), water the bushes several times with "Kornevin" or "Kornerost", spray with "Epin" - the roses can move away in late May - early June.

Rose care: fertilizer and top dressing

An important part of rose care is top dressing, it is needed to ensure proper nutrition bushes. Roses have a good "appetite". For optimal growth and development, roses need mineral and organic top dressing. Mineral fertilizers must contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and magnesium.

Top dressing with nitrogen when caring for roses stimulates the growth of new powerful shoots with beautiful dark green foliage, so it is applied at the beginning of the season. In autumn, roses are not fed with nitrogen, otherwise young tender shoots that have grown by winter will die at the first frost. It is best to apply nitrogen fertilizers immediately after pruning roses, that is, in April-May. If necessary, top dressing with nitrogen can be repeated after the end of the first wave of flowering.

Phosphorus fertilizer when caring for roses is necessary for the development of new roots, the formation of buds, flowers. Given that superphosphate acts slowly, for its maximum effect, it is better to apply in early spring.

Potassium also plays a big role in the health of roses. Its deficiency reduces the resistance of plants to diseases. This element is applied under roses in the form of ready-made potash fertilizer, best of all in early July. From potash, choose fertilizers containing magnesium - another important element for roses (potassiummag or potassium-magnesia). Yellow leaves with green veins - a sign of a lack of magnesium.

How and what to feed and fertilize roses

Usually, roses need to be fed three times a year: at the end of October, compost or humus is applied under the bushes, in April - nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, and at the end of flowering - potash.

Before feeding roses, carefully study the information on the estimated doses of fertilizers per 1 m2, which is indicated on the packages of each dressing.

Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers must be alternated with organic fertilizing. Organic fertilizers do not contain mineral salts. They consist of rotted waste of animal or vegetable origin. The action of such fertilizers is based not only on the supply of nutrients to plants, but also on the activation of biological processes in the soil and thereby enriching it with humus.

Organic fertilizers must first interact with soil microorganisms and be brought into a form that can be better absorbed by plants. Therefore, unlike mineral fertilizers, which are usually absorbed very quickly, organic fertilizers take time to assimilate.

Organic fertilizers are applied in larger quantities than mineral fertilizers (up to one bucket per bush). But this source of nutrients lasts longer.

And how to fertilize roses with manure? It is introduced into the ground in advance, even before planting seedlings. Manure is sent to upper layer soil, applying approximately 8-10 kg/m2 on light soils and about half of this norm on heavy soils.

The best manure is cow. Equine - more caustic, it should be used carefully, but in a well-decomposed form (humus).

A good organic fertilizer is not only humus, but also rotted compost and leafy soil from old forest belts, where the top layer of soil up to 10-15 cm thick is removed for fertilizer. This layer is light and very nutritious, it consists of perennial leaf litter.

The selection of photos "How roses are grown" shows what fertilizers are used for these plants:

Rose fertilizer in the photo
Spraying roses in the photo

During the summer, roses need foliar top dressing with solutions of mineral fertilizers (Agro Lux, Zdraven, Mortar, Potassium Humate and other water-soluble compounds in turn). Such fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and trace elements: boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, etc. These substances not only give good growth and development to roses, but also increase their resistance to diseases and pests.

In dry years, fertilizers are applied less than in a year with heavy rains, nitrogen is used especially carefully.

As a rule, top dressing should be completed no later than August, so that the shoots of roses can ripen well before the onset of winter.

In the first year after planting, roses are not fed. Knowing how and with what to fertilize roses, remember that mineral fertilizing begins only from the second year and then it is done regularly. In the spring, when buds open, shoots form, leaves appear and the first flowers form - at this time, plants have a large need for nitrogen. In summer, roses need to be fed with potassium and phosphorus for the second and subsequent flowering.

Many flower growers, first of all, are guided by the advice of their friends on how to care for roses, and in the process they make common mistakes. But in order for the garden rose to develop correctly and bloom beautifully, care for this royal flower should be carried out on the basis of professional recommendations.

Caring for young roses after planting

From the article you will learn how to properly care for roses, starting from the very first year, what procedures must be performed at different times of the year, and how pruning differs various kinds roses.

Immediately after the rose seedlings have been planted, it is necessary to provide them with regular abundant watering in the evening or morning. It should be watered carefully under the root of the seedling, avoiding the erosion of the roots and the ingress of water on the aerial part. Daily watering is carried out until the plant is fully rooted, then it is enough to water once a week.

Video about caring for roses after winter

Very carefully every month you need to loosen the ground under the bush, trying not to damage the fragile root system. With the onset of cold weather, the soil around the rose is compacted.

At spring planting roses, pruning of seedlings is done in advance, and if planted in autumn, the shoots are pruned next spring, leaving about five of the strongest. Climbing roses do not need pruning.

In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly, otherwise the rose simply will not be able to fully provide itself with all the necessary substances. Only when cutting buds do not remove the leaves - they will still be useful for the plant for photosynthesis. And make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves.

In the first summer, all buds are removed from the rose bush so that the plant develops properly.

How to care for adult roses at different times of the year

Spring

Early spring is well suited for, while the soil is prepared from autumn or at least a month before transplanting. Planted bushes before bud break are sprayed with Bordeaux liquid in order to protect roses from fungal diseases.

In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong live bud. Also during spring pruning, attention is paid to the formation of a symmetrical beautiful bush. All sections are smeared with garden pitch.

In April, roses are pruned, removing all blackened and broken shoots to a strong living bud.

pruning different types roses:

• It is imperative to prune hybrid tea roses (almost all varieties) annually, as they bloom on growths formed in the current year. With strong pruning, all old shoots are removed, medium branches are cut in half, and young ones - up to three to five buds.
• Varieties of floribunda roses also form flowers on young shoots. Abundant flowering gives combined pruning. The bush in the first year is cut into three to five buds, and later the annual shoots are shortened by a third of the length. Three-year-old branches are completely cut off.
• Climbing large-flowered roses bloom on last year's growth, and therefore only five-year-old branches should be removed. Faded shoots in the summer are cut to the nearest leaf.
• Ramblers bloom once on shoots that have successfully endured frost. Pruning is done on the ring as soon as the roses fade. Old shoots need to be cut off so that they do not reduce the flowering of the bush.
• Shrubs also bloom on the shoots of the current year. Annual shoots are cut by a third and be sure to cut out the branches growing inside the bush.
• Light pruning is enough for standard roses, and in case of freezing, the branches are cut to healthy buds.

It is essential to prune hybrid tea roses every year.

Summer

Summer care for roses comes down to weeding, periodic loosening of the soil, watering and fertilizing. Watering roses requires plentiful, but infrequent, otherwise the root system of plants will begin to develop close to the surface of the earth, and it can be easily damaged when loosening. On average, for one rose bush five liters of water is enough for one watering, but if it is a climbing rose, up to fifteen liters may be required. It is not recommended to use cold and chlorinated water. The fact that roses do not have enough water, you will understand by small, quickly withering flowers.

Feeding roses with complex fertilizers is carried out before the start of mass flowering, and in August the bushes are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. The mulch under the bushes needs to be updated periodically, as it is washed away by rains.

To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary in advance, in July, to spray the bushes with preparations containing copper.

To prevent pests and diseases from appearing on roses, it is necessary to spray the bushes in advance, in July

For stimulation abundant flowering Don't forget to remove faded buds. Also in the summer, pruning of young long shoots should be carried out. And by the end of summer, watering should be reduced to a minimum.

Autumn

The main task of caring for roses in the fall is to prepare the plants for cold winter. In this regard, the watering of roses is gradually stopped, leaving only loosening the soil and weeding. Bushes are treated for prevention with one percent Bordeaux liquid. Carry out pruning of faded shoots in climbing roses and the main other varieties of roses.

With the arrival of night frosts, roses must be sprinkled with a prepared dry mixture of earth, sand and peat. In floribunda roses, the stem, cut for the winter to 30 cm, should be almost completely covered with soil mixture; grandiflora and hybrid tea varieties spud to a height of 25 cm, cutting off all leaves and flowers. From above, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, glassine, cardboard, film or sawdust. Ground-cover, park and polyanthus roses need to be pricked up a little, without pruning or covering for the winter.

Curly, climbing and spray roses for the winter, you need to shorten fifteen centimeters, cut off the foliage and bend the shoots to the ground, laying a film under them to isolate them from excess dampness coming from the ground. Also fix the film over the bent roses - in this case, spruce branches are not required. With the advent of spring, you will first need to remove the top film, and then remove the film from the ground and tie the lashes of roses to the supports.

Rose care video

Winter

Before the snow falls, you need to take care of protecting the roses from rodents by spreading poison around the bushes. And when enough snow falls, sprinkle covered roses on top of them, forming small snowdrifts. At the end of winter, it is recommended to periodically compact the snow around the bushes so that the mice, due to lack of food, do not crawl under the shelter and gnaw the bark on the roses.

With the onset of thaws, rose bushes can begin to be ventilated by temporarily lifting the spruce branches or polyethylene with which they were covered. It will be possible to completely remove the shelter only when the severe frosts end (approximately in March-April), and the earth thaws.

Last year I planted a small rose garden in front of my house. All the bushes took root successfully, in the spring I fed them, and now they are already blooming gorgeously. Tell me, what kind of care do roses need in the garden in the summer? Do they still need to be fertilized?

With the advent of summer, garden queens, roses, bloom their lovely buds. At this time, they need care no less than after. winter period, because flowering takes strength from the shrub, besides, hot dry weather does not have a very favorable effect on the general condition of the flowers.

What needs to be done so that the plants bloom profusely and actively develop? Summer care for roses in the garden includes activities such as:

• top dressing;
• if necessary - pest control.

Water abundantly, but not often

The wilting of flowers and leaves in a healthy bush is a cry for help, which indicates that the rose is in dire need of moisture. In order not to bring the perennial to such a state, it is necessary to regularly water it with settled water, but in no case cold, otherwise the flower may start to hurt.

For a young bush, half a bucket of water is enough, but for older roses and, accordingly, large sizes, you need from 1.5 to 2 buckets under one bush.

The frequency of watering depends on the soil in which the rose grows, and weather conditions. Shrubs growing on sandy soil should be watered more frequently during hot, dry summers. Clay, heavy soils retain moisture longer, so in this case, watering will be more rare, as well as during the rainy period. The main thing is not to allow the soil to dry out completely.

To prevent moisture from evaporating so quickly, you need to lay out mulch around the bush.

Summer top dressing

During the flowering period, roses need. They affect the quantity and quality of flowering, as well as the preparation of young shoots for winter. There is a wide range of special complex preparations for roses on the market. Liquid forms should be diluted according to the instructions with water and watered with a nutrient solution, solid forms should be planted in the near-stem circle of the bush before watering.

As for nitrogen fertilizers, it is better not to use them in the second half of summer. Young shoots simply do not have time to mature and freeze in winter.

summer pruning

Pruning roses in the summer is formative. You need to prune shoots that are too high and knock out of general form bush. At the same time, young branches do not need to be touched, because inflorescences form on them.

It is very important to remove faded buds before they begin to form fruit. Thus, flowering is prolonged, and the buds remain large and do not shrink.

We fight pests

Flowering roses are often affected. It must be removed, otherwise the buds may not bloom. good effect gives spraying roses with soapy water. Aphids can also be easily removed by hand or washed off with water, repeating the procedure as needed.

In case of detection of signs of fungal diseases (for example, spots on the leaves), the plants should be treated with special means.

What to do with roses in summer - video

The rose is the acknowledged and undisputed "queen of the garden". Despite such a high title of this beautiful flower, care for him is not at all difficult. If you are just planning to organize a rose garden in your garden, but do not know exactly how to grow roses, then in this article you will find answers to many of your questions.

There are a lot of types and varieties of roses and many of them have their own characteristics agricultural techniques that must be taken into account when growing. The basic rules of care are about the same - moderate watering, pruning, fertilizing, disease control, pests and shelter for the winter.

Growing climbing roses

How to grow floribunda roses

Planting and caring for ground cover roses

Planting and growing park roses

Rules for growing home roses

Learning to grow roses from cuttings

How to properly cover roses for the winter

The best varieties of climbing roses

The best varieties of floribunda roses

The floribunda rose was developed by crossing musk, polyanthus and hybrid tea roses. Like polyanthus, it is quite resistant to diseases and winter-hardy. Compared to hybrid tea, it has a longer flowering period, although it may be inferior to them in elegance.

However, this the best decoration garden: the peculiarity of this variety lies in the arrangement of flowers. They grow on the shoot not singly, but as a whole inflorescence (several dozen flowers each). It is easy to care for floribunda. Therefore, the floribunda rose is often grown to decorate parks and gardens, especially in group compositions.

The floribunda variety includes roses that have large inflorescences and an almost continuous flowering period. They are most similar to hybrid tea both in the shape of the flower and in the range of colors.

Having planted roses in your garden for the first time, you will very soon realize that this is not the kind of flower that you can plant and forget about it. A capricious plant makes high demands on the place and conditions of planting, as well as on care measures. In order for you not to waste time and not look for information in a mass of disparate sources, we will try to cover all issues related to planting, care, and methods of propagating roses in one article.

• Garden rose: care

• The main factors for the successful cultivation of the "Queen of Flowers"

  Roses are photophilous plants, therefore the best place for their cultivation there will be a well-lit area, preferably southeast. In this case, the gentle morning rays are not so hot as to "burn" the plant, but bright enough to form a large number of flowers. Roses are not suitable for open areas illuminated by direct sunbeams all day - in this case, a lot of buds also appear, but they quickly fade, their color turns pale, and the petals burn at the edges, dry and lose their decorative effect. In the shade, roses develop even worse - they bloom poorly, form long and thin shoots, and are also often affected by fungal diseases and pests.

  Areas open to the north and northeast winds are also not suitable for roses, the cultivation and care of which must combine the protection of delicate stems by buildings, trees or shrubs. However, you should not plant roses with large bushes and trees too close, the roots of which will take away food and moisture, create a “deaf” shadow and, accordingly, impede the normal development of the “queen of flowers”. Poor lighting will provoke the appearance of "blind" shoots, without buds, and high humidity- diseases of powdery mildew and black spot.

  soil for roses

  Most suitable for the proper development of roses is light loamy soil rich in humus, the loose structure of which is easily permeable to air and water. Remarkably, roses develop on fertile black soil. It is worse if sandy and sandy loamy soils predominate on the site, which heat up excessively in summer, and in winter, on the contrary, instantly freeze.

  Such sudden changes in temperature have a detrimental effect on the delicate roots of sensitive roses, therefore, to improve the composition of such land, rotted manure, peat, lime and sod can be added to it. Clay soils, "gaining" and retaining a large amount of moisture, are also not suitable for growing roses in their pure form. You can bring clay soil closer to the ideal if you mix sand, compost, peat, humus into it.

  Preferred temperature

  The formation of rosebuds, their flowering and growth is significantly affected by the temperature of the soil and air. The optimal thermal regime of air for roses is in the range of 15-22 ° C. At temperatures above 25 ° C and rare plantings, the soil begins to overheat, which is undesirable for the rose root system.

  To prevent possible unpleasant consequences from overheating, it is advisable to mulch the soil around the bushes with peat, mowed grass or humus. Optimum temperature for soil should be 17-20°C. At lower rates, the ability of the roots to absorb nutrients worsens, which naturally leads to a weakening of the plant and the appearance of "blind" shoots.

  

  Roses: planting and caring for seedlings

  The right choice of seedlings

  In the middle lane, it is recommended to opt for grafted, rather than own-rooted seedlings. Grafted plants are characterized by a more developed and powerful root system, excellent winter hardiness and survival, better resistance to diseases and large quantity flowers on the bushes. However, caring for grafted roses is complemented by the obligatory removal of wild shoots, the free growth of which can, over time, turn a “pedigreed” rose into an ordinary wild rose (most often, cultivars of roses are grafted onto it). Own-rooted plants do not need such care.

  Concerning appearance seedlings, then on sale there are plants with an open or closed root system (in containers or with a clod of peat on the roots). It is preferable to buy seedlings with a closed root - they are less damaged during planting, grow faster and bloom.

  

  When examining seedlings, pay attention to the foliage - it should not be lethargic or dry. Shoots should also be strong, without cracks and spots. Pay attention to the number of shoots - if there are less than three, then refuse to buy. In the event that you purchase a seedling with an open root system, then you are also provided great chance inspect it too - the roots must be intact, without scratches, cracks, breakages.

  Planting dates for seedlings

  Roses can be planted both in spring and autumn, before frost. Autumn planting is preferable, since such plants have time to take root well before spring and bloom earlier than those planted in spring.

  In the middle lane autumn planting carried out from mid-September to mid-October. If you do this earlier, then there is a high probability of awakening dormant buds that will die when cold weather sets in. Later planting is also unfavorable, as the seedlings may not have time to take root and will inevitably suffer from frost. The correct planting dates guarantee that in 10-12 days young roots will begin to form at the seedling, which, before the onset of frost, have time to harden and survive the winter without problems. In the spring, such roses begin the rapid formation of the root and aerial parts, and flowering occurs simultaneously with the old ones. perennial bushes. In contrast, plants planted in spring bloom an average of 2 weeks later and require more attention.

  Methods for planting seedlings

  Before you start planting seedlings, you need to shorten the roots to 20 cm, and cut off all the broken, lifeless, diseased parts of the root.

  

  The shoots are also cut off, leaving 3 to 5 buds on each of them.

  

  After that, the plants are planted dry or wet.

  Dry way

  1. For each plant, they dig a hole 50-60 cm wide and 30 cm deep, add organic matter (humus, compost or biohumus) there. It is also desirable to add mineral fertilizers (nitrogen - 20g, potassium - 10g, phosphorus - 10g), mixing them with the ground.

  2. Seedlings are planted, deepening the root collar 2-3 cm below ground level. Such a measure will prevent them from drying out during dry and hot periods, and will also provide a greater degree of survival.

  Having lowered the seedling into the hole, carefully straighten the roots and gradually cover them with earth, carefully compacting it.

  

  3. After that, the plant is watered, and then spudded with earth by 15-20 cm.

  

  wet way

  1. Dig a hole in the same way as with the dry method.

  

  2. Pour a bucket of water into the pit with a dissolved tablet of heteroauxin or sodium humate in such a concentration that the water acquires the shade of weakly brewed tea.

  3. Lower the seedling into the hole and, holding it with one hand, fall asleep with the other directly into the prepared water soil mix. The earth, falling into the water, evenly fills the space between the roots, leaving no voids. Periodically, the seedling is shaken and the soil is compacted. With this method of planting, watering at the end of the event is no longer required. The next day, most often the earth sags a little, then the seedling is slightly raised, filled up required amount land and tamp the landing site.

  4. Spud the seedling by 10-15 cm.

  Regardless of how the planting was carried out, for the next few weeks, while the rose has not yet had time to take root, it will need high humidity soil. Therefore, during this period, watering should be especially plentiful. When the growth of the seedling begins, it is unraveled and mulched with straw or peat.

  Garden rose: care

  Having planted a rose seedling, you need to learn how to perform some actions to care for it in order to get a lush, luxurious look in the end result. flowering bush. Consider the main stages of this care.

  Bush formation

  Correct formation bush contributes to its branching, increased flowering and facilitates its care. Formation is carried out in the first year of the plant's life and consists in removing all emerging buds, as well as pinching all shoots after the fourth or fifth leaf.

  Bushes in their form can be sprawling, compressed or arbitrary.

  

  In sprawling varieties, when forming, central vertical shoots are left in order to reduce the width of the bush as much as possible and facilitate subsequent care for it. The cut is made on a kidney directed inside the bush.

  In bushes of a compressed form, on the contrary, internal shoots are cut off to make the plant visually more voluminous.

  Shoots that are ahead of others in development must be pinched after the appearance of the fourth leaf. This stimulates the appearance of new, symmetrically developed processes.

  After the bush takes the desired shape, pinching should be stopped so that the rose can bloom normally.

  rose pruning

  Caring for roses in the garden is associated with regular work to remove old and diseased shoots. This action, called pruning, stimulates the emergence of young shoots and gives the bush a beautiful shape.

  A cut of old shoots is made with a pruner 0.5-0.8 cm above a healthy, well-developed bud, looking outward from the bush. There are spring pruning, summer and autumn pruning.

  spring pruning performed after removing the rose from the winter shelter, as soon as the growth of the plant begins.

  

  summer pruning consists in removing faded buds, "blind" and damaged shoots, as well as wild shoots from grafted plants.

  When cutting off faded buds, the cut is made between the second and third leaves from the top, on an outwardly developed bud that can give a new flowering shoot.

  

  Wild growth should be cut off as soon as it appears. To do this, the root neck is freed from the ground and shoots are cut directly from the base. Cutting the undergrowth at ground level has the opposite effect - an even greater growth of unwanted shoots.

  

  Autumn pruning is the removal of long shoots, buds and fruits.

  Disease and pest control

  Caring for roses necessarily involves the fight against emerging diseases, as well as their prevention. In order to prevent the death of roses from pests and diseases, inspect the bushes more often and start the fight at the first sign of the disease. Try to take the following preventive measures:

• Plant plants near roses with a strong smell that repels pests - marigolds, sage, decorative onions.
• Periodically water rose bushes with infusion of onion, garlic, calendula, yarrow.
• Remove and burn all leaves affected by black spot.
• Starting in mid-summer, dust the bushes with wood ash.
• Watch for planting density - excessive crowding leads to the occurrence of fungal diseases.

Roses: care and reproduction - the reason to create a rose garden

Having learned how to grow roses, you will very soon want to acquire more and more new varieties in order to create not just a small chaotic flower garden, but a real rose garden. And in order to do it, you need to have information about the reproduction of the "Queen of Flowers". In this case, spending on new bushes will be significantly reduced.

The easiest way to propagate roses is by rooting cuttings, layering or dividing the bush.

Almost all varieties of roses can be propagated by cuttings, the main thing is that the material is lignified, that is, not too young. Green young cuttings take root very difficult.

For rooting, cuttings can be cut in spring and autumn. One-year straight shoots with 3-5 buds, 10-12 cm long are selected. Autumn cuttings hibernate in the basement in a bucket of sand, and are planted only in spring. Spring cuttings are planted immediately in the ground, covering them glass jar to create the required humidity. Even when leaves appear, it is better not to rush to remove the jar, otherwise the seedling may dry out. It is better to wait until autumn, when you are sure that the cutting will take root.

Roses are propagated by layering in the spring, without waiting for buds to open. In this case, the shoots of an adult bush are pressed to the ground and fixed with staples. From above they are sprinkled with earth. Already by autumn, the layers take root, and next spring they can be separated from the mother plant.

It is very easy to propagate a rose by dividing the bush. This method is practiced in autumn or spring, preferably before bud break. To do this, the root system of the bush is taken out of the ground and the plant is cut into several parts with a sharp pruner or knife. Moreover, each received element must have at least one shoot and part of the root system to it.

In addition to those considered by us, there are two more ways to propagate roses - using seeds and grafting. However, these methods are more complex and require certain knowledge and experience.