How to prune young shoots of roses. Pruning roses to make the rose beautiful, it is pruned in spring, summer and autumn

Everyone knows the expressions: "Fresh like a rose" and "Tender like a rose." The noble flower has long been considered the standard of beauty and charm. The most beautiful female representatives are compared with him. Gardeners express different opinions about the complexity of caring for this garden plant. One cannot but agree that the rose bush requires certain maintenance efforts from its owner. A plant left to the mercy of fate is unlikely to please with lush flowering and young shoots.

Pruning roses for the winter is a necessary procedure for their successful wintering and further growth and bud formation. Moreover, both park and garden roses require it, although in different volumes. Beginning gardeners need to figure out what pruning is for and how to do it correctly.

Roses grow well in warm climates. They prefer heat to frost, so for the winter the plants are carefully covered and protected from the cold.

Overgrown bushes with many shoots are difficult to carefully hide under the film. In addition, their branches are intertwined, interfering with air exchange. This threatens them with decay and the subsequent appearance of diseases.

Plants look much more attractive after trimming. Of course, you need to follow the rules for pruning branches and find out in advance what kind of rose will need it. For some varieties, a stronger shortening of the shoots is desirable, for others, a simple pinching is sufficient.

Pruning roses for the winter - is it necessary to do this?

Gardeners argue about the need to prune roses before the onset of cold weather. Many people think that it is better to prune in the spring, when the plant can immediately produce fresh shoots. And yet, the risk of decay of non-lignified shoots is too great to leave them for the winter.

Moreover, weak shoots and unopened buds will still die before spring, and it makes no sense to save them.

How to prune roses for the winter in order to strengthen the bush and make it grow actively with the arrival of heat?

Principal pruning principles

People who have planted flowers and trees on the site probably already have the tools to care for them. Proper preparation for the procedure for pruning plants in the autumn season will help manuals, magazines and gardening tips presented on the Internet. On television, programs are often shown dedicated to work on the plot.

A set of tools for cutting roses can be bought at hardware store, in the gardening department. Often they are sold in greenhouses along with rose seedlings. There you will be able to consult with experts and choose the most suitable tools.

Typically, rose care requires:

• garden knife;
• scissors;
• garden hacksaw;
• secateurs;
• brush cutter

All tools must be sharpened to effortlessly trim rose bushes. The first two are intended for processing young and thin shoots, and the last ones are cut off lignified branches.

The secateurs will cope with branches with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm. The brush cutter is a large secateurs. They can shorten the thickest shoots due to the long handles. They must be held with both hands.

The main convenience of the brush cutter when caring for roses is the ability to avoid pricks of thorns. The blades of the tool will reach the most distant branches, and at the same time it will be possible to keep the hands at some distance from the bush.

All garden tools usually have brightly colored non-slip handles. So they are easier to find in the green grass and use them.

Preparation for the procedure

At the end of September, rose bushes are watered less often so that the growth of young shoots slows down. It is also important to stop active flowering. This is achieved by pinching out new buds. Before the winter cold, plants will need phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in order to accumulate more in the branches. nutrients.

Before pruning the bushes, all tools that are planned to be used should be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. In this way, it will be possible to avoid infection of plants with microbes.

After carefully examining the branches and evaluating the size of the rhizome, you need to try to calculate the scale of the reduction in the volume of the bush. If the top and bottom are approximately equal, the rose will more easily endure the winter and meet the warm season full of strength.

Slicing Rules

Before starting work, it is worth studying the instructions several times to understand how to properly prune roses for the winter. For example, the cut must be made at an angle so that moisture does not accumulate in it. The place where the shoot is cut immediately after the procedure should be treated with Rannet or a special varnish-balm.

The gardener must take into account that the new shoot will go in the direction where the bud looks, over which the branch is decapitated. True, this is of greater importance during spring pruning, when a bush is formed.

Cut roses should be at the onset of cold weather, at least to -2 degrees. Otherwise, the plant will give new buds that will rot over the winter. As a rule, in middle lane gardeners carry out the procedure in late October - early November.

Recently, in the middle lane, the positive temperature persists until the end of December, so summer residents should adhere to the thermometer readings, and not the dates indicated in the manuals.

Types of pruning roses

Each variety of roses requires special pruning, and some do not need it at all. The latter include park and climbing roses. Plants that bloom once a year and give a single shoot are only pinched without pruning.

The traditional way

Traditional pruning of bushes is called rather obligatory procedures for caring for roses. This method is suitable for beginners who have recently begun to learn how to prune roses for the winter.

First of all, diseased, dry branches and root shoots are removed. Thin young shoots are also pruned, as they did not have time to get stronger and will only in vain take away strength from the bush during wintering. In the spring, they are unlikely to continue to grow.

After traditional pruning, the size of the bush decreases, but individual branches may continue to stand out from the total mass. Light, moderate (medium) or heavy pruning will allow you to bring the plant into an acceptable form for the winter season.

Easy pruning

With this method, the branches are shortened by about a third. It is not suitable for use for several years in a row, as the bush must be rejuvenated, otherwise it will bloom worse. It is also better not to apply light pruning to rapidly growing varieties of roses.

moderate pruning

Shrub roses will safely endure wintering after moderate pruning. It is also called the middle one, since the strengthened shoots are cut in half. Young shoots are shortened more strongly, leaving up to 3-4 buds to a lignified branch.

Strong pruning

Strong pruning is used for young seedlings so that they do not weaken during the cold weather, and old bushes that require rejuvenation. With this method, strong branches up to 15 cm long are left on the bush. In the spring, the bush will give good shoots and large buds.

Strong pruning is never used for park and ground cover roses.

Trimming climbing and ground cover bushes

In climbing roses, dried branches are removed. It is better not to leave very short shoots, 1-2 cm long, for the winter. They did not have time to mature and will die off in winter.

Roses for the winter must be securely insulated. Most varieties do not tolerate cold well and may die in winter. in the best way to save plants is to install a special frame around the bush, which is covered with spruce branches.

It will reliably cover the roses, while allowing air to circulate, which will eliminate the formation of condensation on the branches.

A popular protection option for bushes among summer residents is a film or burlap. Their disadvantage is that they do not allow air to pass through, and sawdust that can absorb excess moisture will have to be poured into the structure. In the absence of sawdust, the branches will rot, and a fungus will form on them. It is difficult to get rid of it, and for roses it is fatal.

All cut branches and dried petals of blooming roses must be removed from under the bush and burned. Leaving them on the ground, you can provoke the development of pathogenic microbes that will spread to a growing bush.

According to the rules of care, before sheltering roses for the winter, they should be sprayed with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate. It destroys the microorganisms remaining on the branches.

It is important to let the plant dry after treatment, you can not cover it with damp. In spring, roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate, which is effective at positive temperatures.

Since the ground under the bush does not freeze thanks to the shelter, mice or rats often start in the sawdust. They feed on rose roots and, like moles, pose a serious threat to garden plants. They are scared away with pieces of burnt wool or swabs soaked in Vishnevsky's ointment, placed inside a frame with a film or spruce branches.

Conclusion

Pruning bushes is only a small part of taking care of your suburban area or garden. Roses require top dressing, timely watering and protection from pests. No wonder they say that a gardener can really relax only in winter. And yet, his work pays off when looking at blooming roses with a unique enchanting aroma.

"Queen of Flowers" delights others. She is beautiful, although sometimes she releases her needles. The variety of shades and types of roses is the merit of the selectors, and the care of the seedlings falls on the shoulders of summer residents. Both the health and beauty of the flower depend on their care and love.

In order for the rose garden to please with enduring beauty, you need to know how to properly prune roses. Regular pruning of varietal roses should be carried out in accordance with the rules, it differs depending on the season and variety of flowers.

Trimming roses in summer, spring or autumn is only necessary with a sharp, clean tool. It must be stored in a special dry room, and it is advisable to disinfect it before use. The cut sites must be treated to avoid infection and help the wounds heal; garden pitch is most often used for this. Before cutting roses, you should take care of your own hands - it is better to protect them with thick gloves than to heal wounds from thorns later.

The shoots are cut off, capturing healthy tissue, that is, up to the white core of the branch, the cut must be made 0.5 cm above the healthy eye at an angle of 45 degrees. If the shoot is cut out completely, then it is done at ground level.

Usually pruning roses is carried out in summer, autumn and spring. All the warm season you need to do sanitary pruning: broken, diseased, old or just extra shoots and leaves are removed constantly so that they do not take away strength from the plant. Be sure to prune roses after flowering to stimulate new and maintain the decorativeness of the bush.

If you regularly prune correctly, you can strengthen the roots, achieve an even distribution of nutrients throughout all parts of the plant. This event protects the bush from many fungal diseases, helps to endure winter colds more easily, keep youth longer, and provides the possibility of abundant flowering in summer.

Rose pruning levels

Rose bushes are pruned in three degrees - short (strong or low), medium (moderate), high (long or weak). The choice of each of them is determined by the variety, size, age, growth rate, requirements for the decorativeness of the bush.

With short pruning, no more than a third of the bush is left, and each shoot is shortened to 3-4 buds. So do with new seedlings. Do mature plants need to be pruned that much? , and Floribunda roses are cut like this in the spring, after cleaning the winter shelter.

The average degree of pruning involves shortening the stems to 5-7 healthy buds, that is, approximately half of their growth. So pruned after flowering medium-sized species. This pruning of most roses after the first bloom stimulates subsequent growth and further bud development.

A high degree of pruning allows you to shorten the shoots by no more than a third, up to 8–15 healthy buds. This is how freshly planted bushes are cut in the spring, but this is rarely done with adults in order to prevent thickening or excessive stretching of the branches.

Most often, experienced flower growers use all three types, carrying out complex pruning of plants, which allows you to rejuvenate the bush, stimulate new shoots, promote abundant bud formation, and maintain a given decorative shape.

Pruning schemes for different varieties

It is very important to know how to properly prune different roses after flowering, how to prune in the summer to encourage them to continue blooming. Flowers should not be removed when they have completely faded and crumbled themselves, but as soon as they are grafted, they have lost their decorative effect. It would be wrong to cut the faded roses under the very flower, they are removed, while shortening the shoot somewhat. So, Floribunda, climbers, multi-flowered stems are removed above the first leaf (sometimes even above the second), removing the entire flower brush.

In order for large-flowered varieties to continue to bloom, each withered flower cut along with a segment of the shoot, which includes at least 1 full leaf, consisting of 5 stipules. So do with polyanthus varieties. The main cleaning of polyanthus occurs in the spring: completely thickening, old, diseased shoots are removed, and strong and young ones are shortened by a third. In autumn, only damaged, diseased weak branches are cut out.

Standard flowers are cut in accordance with the variety that is grafted onto the stem, but it is important that the border of the cut segments is above the bud, not directed into the bush. Strong shortening is done just before landing.

Hybrid tea is given the shape of a ball, the main formation occurs in the spring, the side branches are shortened to 2–4 buds, like all shoots of the current year, stimulating the formation of flowers. The inner stems are mercilessly removed so as not to thicken the bush. And in summer, after the first flowering, the shoots are greatly shortened - up to 3-4 leaves, which encourages the growth of new basal shoots.

Floribunda roses are pruned in the spring in a complex way. Some of the shoots are cut off, old stems are cut out from the middle of the bush, and annual shoots are shortened by a third so that there are more flowering branches.

Climbing plants are pruned in spring to give them the desired shape. Lateral shoots are limited to 2-4 buds, in the summer after flowering they are shortened to the first full leaf.

It is in the spring that you need to remove the old shoots, those that have dried up or frozen, thin out the bushes, shorten strong young shoots to stimulate their growth and abundant flowering.

Sanitary, and partly formative pruning continues in the summer. Wild growth emerging from the stem or root below the grafting site should be removed as soon as possible. Withering, broken, diseased or spoiled

How to prune roses correctly depends on their type. Do not forget to take care of a quality tool for the job.

Goals and timing of rose pruning

Roses in horticulture are commonly referred to as cultural forms of plants belonging to the genus rose hips of the rose family. With all the variety of types and varieties of roses, there are several general principles their cuts.

Pruning is one of the most important agricultural activities. Timely pruning of roses is the key to the longevity of the bush, its decorative effect, good and long flowering.

To anyone who is just starting to master the features of pruning roses, this process in many ways will seem simply incomprehensible. And it’s not even about the variety of species and varieties that require individual approach, and in a large number of trim types. Nevertheless, it is possible to single out the main tasks of pruning roses, on the basis of which to decide on the methods of its implementation.

So, pruning roses has the following goals:

• bush rejuvenation. By removing old shoots, the plant can spend all its strength on the formation of large beautiful buds;
• giving the bush the most decorative look. By cutting off excess and unproductive shoots, you can give the bush the desired shape;
• lush and long flowering. Buds are formed only on strong young shoots;
• creation optimal conditions for wintering plants;
• reducing the risk of developing fungal diseases. The fact is that good ventilation, provided by removing excess branches inside the bush, prevents the occurrence of diseases;
• obtaining excellent specimens for cutting.

The basic rules for pruning roses are as follows:

• pruning is carried out to healthy wood;
• pruning is carried out on a kidney located on the outside of the shoot;
• if, after pruning, 2–3 shoots develop from one bud, then only one should be left, the rest should be removed;
• it is necessary to remove all diseased, thin, dead, weak, intersecting shoots to healthy wood or to soil level;
• so many shoots should be left so that there is normal air exchange and good illumination of the bush, this helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Pruning roses is a simple operation, but requires knowledge.

The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner 5-6 mm above the developed bud and at an angle of 45 °. The cut surface must be smooth, without cracks or burrs. It must be covered with garden pitch.

In the first summer after planting Special attention give to the formation of bushes. At this time, when pruning roses, all small, growing inward, thickening shoots, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root neck (in own-rooted ones) are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched. In July, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have time to ripen, freeze slightly and often cause roses to be affected by diseases. In grafted roses, wild shoots are systematically cut to the ground, which in the first summer is especially abundant, with age it becomes less. In order not to weaken the plants, emerging buds can be removed.

In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual shoots that grow too violently, especially in large-flowered rose bushes and stem rose crowns. However, the main task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that a particular variety can give, its correct summer pruning is necessary. You cannot simply remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, i.e. tore off one flower and that's it - this is a big mistake, because a new shoot with a flower will appear very high. It will be elongated, thin and will easily bend, i.e. bend. It is necessary to remove the flower before the petals completely fall off, i.e. as soon as the appearance has lost its appeal. It is necessary to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will be strong and hold tight (when cutting the flower, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye). Probably, disputes between gardeners about the need for pruning will never stop, because someone considers it a panacea for all ills, and someone perceives it as an act of vandalism over the very nature of the tree. However, years of experience show that pruning is necessary in many cases, promoting more vigorous growth and abundant flowering and fruiting, helping in the prevention and treatment of diseases and eliminating pests, and in addition, it prolongs the life garden plants allowing them to delight us with their fragrant fruits or beautiful flowers much longer.

At the same time, one should not start pruning plants thoughtlessly, because each species or even variety requires an individual approach: someone needs a minimum of intervention, and someone is unable to give a bountiful harvest without strong pruning in the spring.

However, remember: even observing the rules for pruning roses and performing this procedure in a timely manner, without proper care for the plant, it still will not bloom as it should. So take care of your garden, take care of the crops, and they will surely thank you with lush flowers and delicious fruits.

Pruning roses to form a bush

The bush is formed in the first summer after planting. Small shoots growing inward, and shoots coming from the root collar or grafting site, are cut into a ring. Too long or intensively growing shoots are pinched. In June, the formation of a bush when pruning roses is completed. Otherwise, the rose will produce new shoots that will not have time to mature before winter.

Removal of wild growth. Most often, roses are propagated by grafting: a varietal form of a rose is grafted to a wild stock. Later, wild shoots grow from the grafting site. Their leaves are smaller, the stems are lighter, they have more thorns. Part of the nutrients intended for cultivated plant. Therefore, such shoots must be immediately disposed of, preventing them from growing. Wild shoots are cut out in May. The earth is raked from the root neck of the bush to expose the place where the shoot grows. The sprout is cut at the base with sharply sharpened scissors or a knife. Together with the shoot, a little bark is removed. Cutting wild shoots near the surface of the soil is useless. Moreover, it will only increase their growth.

Pruning by timing is divided into spring, summer and autumn.

Pruning rose bushes in spring (with video)

After pruning, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter of water, then the bushes are spudded and covered with a film or lutrasil to create a shadow.

If spring night frosts are no longer expected, then the shelter is removed from the roses and unraveled.

Spring pruning is the main one, since the formation of rose bush and its subsequent development. Every year the pruning time may be different due to instability weather conditions in central Russia. But in any case, it must be done on time. If the rose was cut too early, then during the first warm days the buds will begin to swell and grow, but with repeated frosts, which also often happens in the middle lane, they die; if pruned late, the bush will spend too much energy on the formation of new shoots, which will subsequently be removed.

Pruning of rose bushes in the spring is carried out immediately after the removal of the shelter and the clearing of the bush. Roses are pruned in the spring in March - April. It is advisable to wait for the awakening of the kidneys. Then it will be clear which stems are damaged by frost, and which endured the winter normally.

The rose is cut off, thereby creating conditions for the beginning of the formation of a bush, which is typical for this garden group, and as much as possible lush flowering.

The stems are shortened to a height of 20–25 cm. The exception is curly and park species: only old shoots are cut from them.

The growth buds of roses are located in the axils of the leaves. The cut is made as close to the kidney as possible, but so as not to damage it. The cut is made with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45° with an inclination from the kidney and at a distance not exceeding 0.5 cm from it. The bud should be on the outside of the branch.

The shoot is cut to healthy tissue. Determining the state of the branch is simple: if the core is dark, brown, then the tissues are damaged. The healthy core of the branch is painted white or greenish-white.

Sometimes several sprouts develop from strong buds at once. Of these, only one shoot is left, and all the rest are removed as soon as possible.

All varieties of roses need regular sanitary pruning. Broken, dry, diseased and damaged branches, as well as thin and weak growths are cut to the level of the soil or to a healthy shoot.

To facilitate the care of a rose, before planting a bush, you need to check if there are any wild shoots on it. The discovered sprouts are cut off with a sharp knife or scissors at the base, capturing a little bark.

Intersecting branches are cut so that one of them is below the point of intersection.

The rose bush should not be thickened. So many shoots are left on it to ensure normal air exchange and sufficient illumination.

After pruning young roses, the soil under them is mulched with well-rotted manure or compost.

The video "Pruning rose bushes in spring" shows how this procedure is performed:

Proper pruning of roses in summer

To maintain the decorativeness of the rose during the summer, sanitary pruning is carried out. Summer (sanitary) pruning is carried out from the beginning of the first flowering until the autumn. At the same time, flowers that have lost their attractive appearance are removed. No need to wait until all the petals have completely fallen off: this increases the risk of disease.

As you can see in the photo, during the summer pruning of roses, the flowers are cut off as soon as the petals begin to wilt:

Thus, they provide repeated flowering, cut off diseased, yellowed foliage and sluggish shoots.

Proper pruning of roses in the summer allows you to ensure continuous flowering, as well as prevent the consumption of nutrients for the formation of seeds. The cut is made on the 1st strong kidney. If you simply cut off a flower with a pedicel, buds will awaken on the remaining weak part of the stem. They will grow stunted thin shoots.

At the end of summer, the inflorescences cease to be removed. Otherwise, shoots will still actively form on the bush. They will not have time to ripen by winter and will die from frost.

In order to prevent the development of diseases and pests, shoots that are too thick and growing inside the bush are removed.

The only exception is the small-flowered climbing rose of the Rambler subgroup, which blooms once a year, which is cut off immediately after flowering so that replacement shoots appear that can bloom in a year.

Watch a video of pruning roses in the summer to better understand how this agricultural technique is performed:

Rules for pruning roses in autumn (with video)

Autumn pruning of roses is carried out in November. In order not to cause intensive growth of shoots, pruning should be minimal. Usually limited to the removal of flowers and fruits damaged by frost. According to the rules for pruning roses in autumn, the shoots of standard plants are cut off by 1/3, then the crops are covered for the winter. In areas with strong winds, it is advisable to cut stems that are too long by 15–30 cm so that the wind does not shake and damage them.

Autumn pruning is mostly associated with the process of preparing the rose for the winter period and the implementation of the shelter. Before sheltering a plant for wintering, after a negative daytime temperature has been established, it is recommended to remove all flowers, foliage, immature, inferior, diseased and broken shoots. Pruning of the main shoots is carried out in accordance with the garden group of roses. All cut parts are removed from the site and burned, as they can become a source of infection.

Here you can find a video of pruning roses in the fall to prepare plants for winter:

Pruning species and miniature roses

Pruning species (wild) and old roses. A species rose eventually grows into a dense, strong bush. Most of these roses do not really need pruning, and they are not recommended to be touched for about 4 years, so that the bush can build up a powerful base.

Long (light) pruning is necessary if the bush grows too much, if it comes into contact with neighboring bushes and damages its shoots, if some branches have begun to die off. First of all, the oldest shoots that are at least 4 years old, located near the ground, need to be pruned in order to stimulate the young growth that gives abundant flowering. The surviving shoots remontant varieties it is necessary to shorten it by about a third (Fig. 60), in single-flowering plants, the shoots are not subject to cutting at all, since their flower bud is mainly laid precisely at the top of the bush.

Pruning roses patio and miniature. The patio rose, as well as the real miniature rose, are smaller versions of the regular large-flowered and multi-flowered roses.

When planting a miniature rose, only the top and deformed shoots are cut off. In subsequent seasons, it is cut in the same way as hybrid tea.

Pruning ground cover and climbing roses

Pruning a ground cover rose. In the spring, sanitary pruning is carried out, and the ends of the shoots are cut into 2–3 buds.

The ground cover rose does not need autumn pruning, only diseased, damaged branches that have not matured, as well as shoots and branches that have lost their decorative effect, and all the foliage remaining on the bush are cut out. Once every 5–6 years, for the purpose of rejuvenation, the bush is cut short, by 5–7 buds.

Curly roses. In roses that bloom several times during the summer, flowers appear on both old and annual shoots. Withered inflorescences are also removed from plants, side shoots are cut into 2–4 eyes. Rejuvenating and thinning pruning is carried out as needed.

In roses that bloom once a summer, flowers appear on perennial shoots. Such plants need regular rejuvenating pruning and thinning. Climbing roses are pruned immediately after flowering, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before the onset of frost.

In varieties with decorative fruits, wilted flowers are not cut.

wild roses. Practically do not require pruning, with the exception of sanitary. If wild roses are grown as bush roses, pruning is carried out accordingly.

Cascading roses. They only need thinning.

Pruning spray, flower bed and repair roses

Bush roses. Varieties that bloom once are not pruned, but only thinned out. Pruning impairs their flowering.

Constantly flowering varieties are pruned. Strong shoots are shortened only slightly, weak ones are cut into 3-4 buds. Every 3-5 years, the bush is thinned out and anti-aging pruning is carried out. When pruning spray roses remove branches growing inside the bush. Old unproductive shoots are cut off near the ground.

Flower bed roses. Weakly growing varieties are cut into 3-4 buds (10-15 cm) to get strong stems.

Medium-growing varieties are cut into 4–6 buds (15–25 cm).

Strong-growing varieties are cut into 8 buds. To rejuvenate the bush, pruning is carried out in the same way as pruning low-growing varieties.

Repair roses. Roses of these varieties are pruned to stimulate the formation of strong basal shoots. Another goal is to form a spherical bush. Its center should be open, and the peripheral stems should be evenly spaced.

Flowers of such roses appear on the growth of the current year. Therefore, they need annual moderate to heavy pruning. Thick stems are cut to 4-6 buds (about 20 cm from the ground). The remaining stems are shortened to 2-4 buds (about 15 cm from the ground). In an adult plant, 2-3 stems are completely removed annually to rejuvenate the bush.

Proper pruning of standard roses

Pruning of standard roses is carried out similarly to that of spray roses, forming a symmetrical crown shape. Shoots that thicken the crown are especially carefully cut off, since a lot of shoots do not contribute to an abundance of flowering.

For standard roses, depending on the garden groups, heavy or light pruning is used. Strong pruning is used for crowns of hybrid tea, floribunda, grand diflora, polyanthus and miniature roses, and light pruning is used for climbing and ground cover roses.

Pruning of climbing boles is carried out by strongly cleaning the crown. Leave a few young strong branches, pruning them to a powerful outer bud.

Their crown should be compact. Drooping varieties are thinned out. The rest are moderately pruned.

In the spring, after planting, the stem crown is cut short with an indent of 10–15 cm from the base of the bush. In subsequent seasons, pruning will depend on the growth potential of the grafted rose, on its group and on the general condition of the plant after overwintering. If the rose survived this period well, it is pruned, leaving 2-3 more buds than the same varieties of spray roses. If the plant did not survive the winter well, it is cut shorter, by 5–7 buds.

In summer, a hybrid tea rose, a floribunda rose, and a miniature rose grafted onto a trunk form a symmetrical crown due to pinching of shoots by 2–3 buds.

Pruning hybrid tea and polyanthus roses

A hybrid tea rose, as a result of mandatory spring pruning, develops flower shoots that will bloom in the same year. In the year of planting, the plant is cut short, by 2-3 buds.

Subsequently, when pruning hybrid tea roses, it is necessary to take into account the varietal specifics:

• a vigorous variety needs long (light) pruning because short pruning often results in blind (non-blooming) shoots. With it, 5–7 buds are left on the shoot;
• when pruning other varieties, medium (moderate) pruning is used. Each one-year-old shoot is cut to 3-5 buds; a strong mature 2-4-year-old shoot has 2-3 buds, depending on the intensity of growth.

A properly formed bush has a maximum of 5 strong shoots, all the rest are removed. The most valuable is the young shoot growing from the base of the bush. It should be carefully preserved, since at its expense the bush is rejuvenated. During the formation of the shoot, a young root begins to sprout. The root system is growing. If such a shoot is removed, the root will not be able to form. Autumn pruning is carried out at a height of 20–30 cm from the base of the bush, leaving 5–7 buds.

Saplings with two or more shoots are pruned in the spring immediately after planting, keeping 2-3 buds each, weak shoots are cut more strongly. Thanks to this, flowers will appear in the first year. I also shorten the roots to about 30 cm (if they were cut back in the nursery, just refresh the cuts). If a rose is planted in the fall, then the roots are shortened to the same indicators, and the shoots are slightly shortened.

Further pruning is associated with the varietal affiliation of flowers. So, varieties that are characterized by active growth are pruned weakly, since otherwise you can get "blind" shoots, that is, shoots that do not give flowers. Other varieties respond well to moderate pruning.

The most valuable are the shoots that appeared from the root zone, as they help to rejuvenate the bush and increase the mass of the root system. If they are cut off, a new root will not develop either.

To get high-quality cut material, hybrid tea roses are cut into 2-3 buds.

Polyanthus roses. When planting polyanthus roses, all weak shoots are cut off, and strong ones are shortened by about 4 buds. Varieties characterized by low height and weak growth are subjected to heavy pruning in the spring, because thanks to this they give a lot of shoots that bloom in the same summer.

Actively growing varieties for early flowering are lightly pruned in the year of planting. Next spring, weak shoots are cut, strong ones are shortened to a third of their length, and growths on them are 3 buds. Further care involves cutting out all old, weak and thickening shoots, pruning strong shoots also by a third of their length.

Proper pruning of a floribunda rose

In the first season after planting, a strong pruning of floribunda roses is carried out by 3-4 buds. Subsequently, the most optimal pruning for a floribunda group rose is a mixed spring pruning, during which:

• lightly cut some shoots to provoke early flowering others, for 5-7 kidneys;
• strongly cut off other shoots to stimulate the growth process of renewed basal shoots and get a displaced late flowering, by 2-3 buds.

A properly formed bush has no more than five strong shoots, all the rest are subject to mandatory removal. Autumn pruning is important to produce at a height of 30-35 cm from the base of the bush.

Weak pruning does not allow to preserve the decorativeness of the plant, although it contributes to early flowering, strong pruning depletes the bush, due to which the buds are tied at a later date, and moderate pruning does not provide constant flowering. Therefore, they resort to combined pruning, in which some of the shoots are pruned strongly, while others are weakly pruned. This will allow the bush to keep its shape and bloom earlier.

With further care, all shoots directed deep into the bush are necessarily cut out, annual shoots are cut off by a third, lateral growth is cut off on the shoots of the second year of life, and old shoots are removed if young growth is sufficient.

Proper pruning of a climbing rose (with video)

Subgroup rambler (real climbing, small-flowered climbing). This group includes roses with long (up to 3–4 m) elastic shoots and miniature flowers in large inflorescences. They bloom in June - early July, once, for 30-35 days along the entire length of the shoot that survived the winter.

next spring for correct pruning climbing roses, it will be possible to slightly shorten the tops of the shoots, however, the main pruning falls on the period after the flowering of the buds. In the process, all faded shoots are completely removed. If this was not done in the summer, they need to be cut in the spring. With proper and complete care, new shoots form on the bush, which will bloom this year.

As shown in the video of pruning climbing roses, in the first year after planting, the bush is cut to 35–40 cm, which forms great amount root shoots:

Flowering in the first year is absent. In all subsequent years, pruning is performed in the same way. In the spring, only sanitary pruning is recommended.

The main pruning of this species is done immediately after flowering is completed, in the summer. The rose of this group blooms on last year's shoots, so those that have faded are cut off at the base of the bush into a ring. At the same time, many replacement shoots are formed, but only 5-10 of them are required to form a bush, the rest must be removed.

Look at the photo - when pruning climbing roses in the fall, only the very top with underdeveloped buds is removed and then sanitary molding is carried out:

This is done for the reason that the climbing rose blooms on last year's shoot, which must be preserved.

Rules for pruning a park rose

Roses of this species need annual formative and sanitary pruning. Weak pruning of park roses activates the appearance of new shoots, contributing to the rejuvenation of the bush and the emergence of abundant long flowering. Due to the development of basal shoots, the mass of roots also increases, which positively affects the vital activity of the whole plant.

In the first two years, it is necessary to create a strong skeleton of the bush, for which all weak shoots, faded flowers, etc. are cut out. In autumn, young shoots are cut to 5 cm, which will make it easier for them to cope with wintering.

Types of park roses that bloom once in the middle of the season are pruned in the spring, removing up to a third of the length of the basal shoots, because due to the abundant flowering, the branches often break off under their own weight. In autumn, strongly grown shoots are also cut off so that they do not break during strong winds or heavy snowfall.

Pruning other types of roses

Climer subgroup (climbing, climbing large-flowered rose). The flowers of this group reach 2–3 m in height, they have large flowers collected in small inflorescences. It blooms profusely and for a long time, some varieties bloom repeatedly.

The flower is formed on the shoot of the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th order, that is, it blooms for 4 or more years. At the same time, flowering becomes weaker year after year, therefore, when growing roses of this group, it is required to leave 2–4 summer shoots.

Sanitary pruning is carried out in the spring. If possible, some lashes are formed horizontally or at an angle (this technique helps to avoid exposing the bottom of the bush).

During the summer, after the removal of flowers that have lost their decorative effect, the shoot is shortened by 3–4 buds, which stimulates re-blooming.

During the autumn, only the top is shortened at the shoot, and rejuvenating pruning is carried out at the old bush. It is forbidden to cut all shoots: low pruning contributes to a return to the bush form, since most of varieties of this group is one of the climbing varieties of spray roses, and the plant may also stop blooming.

Semi-climbing and spray roses. Before planting, the tops of the shoots and roots are shortened, and unviable growth is also removed. The next year, in the spring, weak shoots are completely cut out, and strong ones are reduced by a third of their length.

Pruning shrub rose, scrub rose and English rose. Such a rose can only bloom on a two-year-old or more mature shoot. In the spring, it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning and make the shoots shorter by 3-4 buds, and also remove the brushes with the fruits of the last season, so that the bush can bloom earlier.

In autumn, you should also remove all thickened, old, sluggish, deformed, diseased shoots at the base of the bush on a ring so that they cannot grow back. After pruning, 3–7 stems will remain, half of which must be shortened by 2 times. Side shoots from all surviving stems are subject to removal, and tops are cut into 3–5 buds. In the end, you will get a bush with shoots of various lengths.

During the spring period, it should grow and continue its flowering from spring to autumn. They rejuvenate the park rose with a strong pruning to the base of the bush, save 3-4 buds to provoke the growth of "sleeping buds".

Rose pruning tools

Many growers don't like to prune roses because they have to deal with thorny stems. However, if pruned correctly, the development of the plant will improve, it will become more abundant and more beautiful to bloom. In young seedlings, pruning improves the formation of the root system, which begins to develop faster.

Also, due to pruning, young shoots appear and vegetate more actively. Removing dry and old parts of the bushes allows you to ensure the correct distribution of nutrients throughout the plant. Pruning also contributes to the flow to all parts of the bush fresh air, which helps prevent the development of diseases, in particular black rot.

This operation requires a lot of time, in addition, it requires some practice and special tools.

To prune roses, first of all, you need to arm yourself with secateurs and gloves to help avoid damaging your hands. In order to get to hard-to-reach stems, as well as to get rid of faded buds from climbing roses, use a long-handled lopper.

All tools should be kept clean and thoroughly washed and dried after each cut. It is also recommended to wash the tools after cutting each individual bush: in this case, the spread of the disease can be prevented if one of them was infected.

How to prune roses in spring, summer and autumn?

Before starting the operation, you need to assess the condition of the bush and decide which pruning method to choose, because the latter depends on the type of rose and the goals for which this manipulation is carried out. So, autumn pruning is carried out more rigidly, as a result of which the bush can be shortened to 40 cm in height. Spring pruning is carried out in order to ensure the penetration of fresh air and sunlight to the stems and leaves.

It is recommended that cuts be made at an angle of 45°, and they should be neat, without torn or chewed edges. When pruning, dry, broken and affected parts of the bushes, as well as thin and weak shoots, should be removed. If the seedlings have whitened and thin shoots after storage, they must also be cut off, otherwise the plant will die. On grafted roses, it is necessary to cut off the shoots that appear below the rootstock, since otherwise the cultivated part of the plant can die.

After trimming, the cut site should be treated with an antiseptic, which will help prevent possible infection. As such an antiseptic, it is permissible to use a solution of brilliant green.

Seven types of pruning roses

There are seven types of rose pruning, which depend on the time they are held and the type of crop.

1. Basic (shaping) pruning. Carried out in the spring. It pursues the following goals: stimulation of the growth of new shoots from the renewal buds; regulation of flowering time; guarantee of abundant and lush flowering throughout the growing season of the plant; maintaining the shape of the bush, which is characteristic of a garden rose. This pruning is carried out taking into account biological features groups and varieties of roses.

2. Sanitary pruning. Carried out in order to form a healthy strong bush with a lush and long flowering as well as to prevent the occurrence of diseases and pests. This type of pruning is performed as needed throughout the growing season (in spring, summer and autumn), it is unchanged for all groups. It implies the following stages: removal of old flowers that have lost their attractiveness and decorativeness, thereby ensuring their subsequent flowering; pruning diseased yellowed foliage in order to prevent the further development of diseases and pests; pruning interfering with each other shoots; removal of shoots that thicken the crown and grow inside the bush, thereby providing excessive ventilation and direct access sunlight to all foliage and buds; spring pruning of all frozen, dry, brown, diseased shoots to a healthy place, autumn pruning of unripened and weak shoots; in case the rose is grafted, the shoots are removed at the very base.

3. Anti-aging pruning. It is carried out in order to rejuvenate the bush, as well as to stimulate the growth of young abundantly flowering growth and to form replacement shoots, which will later become the skeleton of the bush. It is applicable to all types of roses if the plant has slowed down its growth rate, has begun to bloom less abundantly, or has become bare at the bottom. Pruning is carried out on shoots older than 4 years to form strong young shoots. During the procedure, the old hardened shoots are removed completely in the spring or immediately after flowering (species, old and park roses), or cut into 3-4 buds from the bottom of the bush and removed immediately after the formation of replacement shoots.

4. Long pruning. When using long pruning, it is customary to leave at least two-thirds of the stem, in other words, the shoots that have survived after lightening the bush are subjected to slight shortening. This method is widely used in the implementation of pruning species, old, park and English roses, as well as vigorous varieties of tea-hybrid group. If it is necessary to induce earlier flowering of individual shoots, light pruning is applied among other groups. With regular use of long pruning, the bush is very stretched and blooms poorly, although it blooms earlier than it should. For this reason, you can not limit yourself to only light pruning for several years in a row.

Long pruning is used when planting seedlings and after cleaning the winter shelter. Suitable for hybrid tea and garden roses.

5. Moderate pruning. By moderate is meant pruning at about half the height, at which shoots are left at the level of the 4-5th bud from the base of the bush. A weakened shoot is cut short or removed completely. Moderate pruning is used for any group of roses, with the exception of climbing, species, old, English and park roses. In addition, with the help of medium pruning, a bush is formed.

6. Short cut. When performing short pruning, the shoot is cut at the level of the first three buds from the base of the bush, as a result, a shoot 15–20 cm high remains.

It is used in the spring pruning of patio roses, adult hybrid tea roses, miniature roses, and rambler climbing roses a year after planting and as a rejuvenating pruning method for all other rose groups.

Short pruning is carried out during the spring planting of seedlings. It is suitable for climbing roses, if you need to stimulate the growth of new shoots so that they bloom the next year.

7. Combined pruning use, if necessary, to form bushes of some varieties of roses (primarily the type of floribunda). Thanks to this type of pruning, the bush during the flowering period looks more elegant.

Regular pruning of garden roses is necessary for their good growth and abundant flowering.

For different types roses have their own ways of pruning, since roses belonging to different groups differ greatly from each other. Pruning requires certain gardening tools that must be in good condition and well sharpened. These include: garden shears, garden knife, garden saw and side cutters.

The buds of roses are in the axils of the leaves. The upper buds germinate faster than the lower ones. The lowest buds, the so-called "sleeping", germinate later than others. If you do pruning on a kidney that has not yet formed, then the flowering period of the bush is thereby delayed. It is better to prune on the buds that are outside, thereby providing access to sunlight to the flowers and leaves. When more than one shoot is formed in the axil of the leaf, one must be left, removing the rest.

A well-sharpened tool is needed for the cut, if the tool is blunt, then it will not work to make an even cut, it will be torn, from which the branch may simply die. The cut should be made slightly at an angle, at a distance not exceeding 5 mm from the kidney. If the distance to the kidney is less, then it is easy to damage it than to cause infection and infection. An overestimated distance leads to the death of the "hemp".

Correct cut

Wrong cut

As a rule, pruning begins with the removal of damaged, dead or diseased branches, to a healthy stem or to the level of the soil. Pruning is done to healthy tissues, with a white core.

Pruning should be done to thin out a heavily bushed bush to prevent black spot, rust and powdery mildew which often contribute to poor air permeability within the bush. Sick pruned shoots are best burned.

In order to prevent friction between the stems or friction of the stem against the supports, at the points of their intersection, one of the stems is cut to the point of intersection.

To begin with, we will determine the timing of trimming trimming for different groups roses.

For correct formation bush, it is necessary to pinch the ends of the shoots. Garden roses, ground cover roses and climbing roses do not need to be pinched.

Young shoots of a planted seedling are pinched after the fourth leaf. For good bush growth and symmetrical formation correct form in the first year after planting, only the buds that have appeared are cut off, thus, the growth of new shoots is stimulated. By autumn, the plant will get stronger and will be well developed, this will allow it to endure winter frosts.

In the last month of summer, you can stop pruning the buds and let the rose bloom.

There are light, moderate, strong and combined degrees of pruning.

Light pruning - pruning roses at the level of 2/3 of the initial height, approximately at the height of the eighth - twelfth bud from the base. It is also called summer, when faded inflorescences are cut off. Light pruning should be carried out on vigorous shrubs of hybrid tea roses and roses growing in unfavorable conditions with strong air pollution or on sandy soil, it is also the main one for ground cover roses in the first years after planting.

Medium or moderate pruning - pruning roses ½ of the initial height, about the fifth or seventh bud from the base. If there are weak shoots on the bush, then they are cut off more strongly. Medium pruning is the main type of pruning for adult hybrid tea roses. This method allows for high decorativeness and earlier flowering.

Strong degree of pruning - rose pruning at the level of the 3rd - 4th bud from the base. Such pruning is resorted to during the spring planting of a bush. It is also sometimes used if the hybrid tea rose bush is weak or heavily thickened. For adult floribunda roses, this type of pruning is not recommended.

But most often used in horticulture combined pruning. Applying different degrees of pruning, you can observe an almost continuous abundant flowering of the rose. Especially this type of pruning suits the floribunda group.

Depending on the period of pruning, the following types are distinguished: spring, summer and autumn.

spring pruning- the main one, it is carried out annually in the spring, as soon as swollen buds appear. The degree of pruning depends on the condition, variety and group of the plant. Sanitary pruning is also carried out, when damaged and diseased branches are removed after winter.

summer pruning held for roses re-blooming when faded inflorescences are removed to the first developed bud facing outward above the 2nd or 3rd leaf. This pruning prolongs flowering, stimulates the development of new shoots. It can be used to discharge a heavily thickened bush. If there are shoots that do not have buds or the buds on them are underdeveloped, they must be cut off by 1/2. This will allow one or more strong flowering shoots to develop.

By pinching the shoots at the very beginning of bud formation, the flowering period is shifted 20 days ahead, thereby stimulating the development of new shoots.

Starting from the end of summer and autumn, faded flowers are not cut, so as not to stimulate the formation of new shoots.

Autumn pruning - held in the autumn before the cold weather, in order to shelter and protect roses in the winter. It consists in removing undeveloped weak shoots, buds, flowers, foliage, and achieving optimal height for adequate cover. Climbing roses and straight-growing scars cannot be severely pruned for winter, they are bent to the ground and covered.

Often, wild shoots appear from the roots or the place of grafting, which are shoots different from the grafted one, its foliage is small, like that of a wild rose. It grows and multiplies rapidly. It must be removed immediately, because the growth weakens the bush and leads to its "wildness".

Shoots of shoots are removed from the very base, so if it forms from the root, the ground must be cleared to the place of its formation. You need to constantly monitor the formation of new shoots.

The reason for the formation of shoots is often poorly compacted soil or damage to the roots during weeding, as well as improper removal of shoots of shoots (from the ground), which only contributes to the formation of new ones.

Removal of root shoots from grafted roses: 1 - incorrect removal of shoots, contributing to the formation of new shoots; 2- correct removal of root shoots

In roses grafted onto a bole, wild shoots can form on the bole itself below the grafting site from dormant buds, it must also be removed immediately.

Removal of shoots of wild shoots from standard roses

Shrub large roses suffer from the appearance of wild growth much less often than grafted roses, especially polyanthus and miniature.

The purpose of pruning this group of roses is the formation of strong shoots, the formation of the correct spherical shape of the shrub.

In the spring, before planting a hybrid tea rose, the seedlings are heavily pruned, up to 15 cm above the soil level (second or fourth bud), this contributes to the formation of new basal shoots, and in the fall, medium pruning is carried out. If the rose is planted in poor, sandy soil, then it is not worth cutting the rose strongly before planting, moderate pruning is enough (at the level of the fourth or sixth buds, 20 cm), and the next year you can make a stronger pruning.

Roses of this group bloom on the current year's shoots, so they are moderately pruned every year to stimulate the formation of new young shoots. If a hybrid tea rose variety forms a powerful bush, with tall stems over 1.2 m, then it is not recommended to carry out strong pruning, often because of this, non-flowering shoots are formed, and light pruning, which reduces the formation of buds, is also bad. It happens that the bottom of the rose bush is exposed, and flowering occurs only at the top of the shoots, in this case, the younger shoots are cut less than the old ones, some of which are cut off to the very base to allow new ones to develop. Often, to avoid such problems, combined pruning is used. Every year, it is necessary to remove 2-3 of the oldest stems during pruning to rejuvenate the bush.

First year

Before planting a seedling in the fall, pruning of the main stems (at the level of the fourth - sixth bud), damaged and too long roots is carried out.

Second year

1. In the spring in March, each stem is pruned, at the level of the second or third bud.
2. In summer, new shoots form on the shrub.
3. At the beginning of autumn, the flowering stems are shortened, the non-growthy and non-flowering stems are removed.

Third year and beyond

1. In March, pruning of diseased, weak, dead, overlapping and stems growing inside the bush is carried out.
2. The remaining shoots are pruned: strong at the level of the fourth - fifth bud (up to 20 cm), the rest at the level of the second - third (up to 15 cm).

6. In late September - early October, when the growing season comes to an end, cut flowering stems and non-flowering non-flowering stems.

Roses of this group differ from hybrid tea by a stronger developed bush, small flowers that are collected in inflorescences. Often the use of strong pruning harms them, and a weak one stimulates the growth of a bush with thin shoots.

If the roses of this group are planted in areas prone to strong winds, then it is best to use a moderate average pruning, at the level of the sixth to eighth buds (30-45 cm). Unfortunately, this type of pruning sometimes leads to the death of old shoots, without the appearance of new basal ones, and also does not provide continuous flowering.

Therefore, for these roses, a combined type of pruning is often used, when some shoots are cut heavily to enhance the growth of basal ones, while others are cut lightly for earlier flowering.

First year

Before planting, a rose seedling needs to be trimmed a little, to a height of about 15-20 cm (third to fifth bud), and roots that are too long and damaged.

Second year

1. In the spring of next year, you need to cut the stems at the level of the third or fourth bud and remove weak shoots.
2. The formation of new shoots will begin in April.
3. In autumn, in October, there is a strong growth of the tops of the first year. During this period, non-flowering non-woody shoots are pruned and the main shoots are pinched.

Third year

1. In the third year, at the beginning of spring, diseased, weak, dead branches and branches that intersect and thicken the bush are removed. Then rejuvenating pruning is carried out as follows: old stems are shortened to a length of about 15-20 cm from the base (by three to five buds), annual basal by 1/3, lateral remaining up to 10-15 cm (by two to three buds).
2. In October, the non-woody non-flowering shoots are pruned and the main ones are pinched.

Fourth year and beyond

1. In the spring, pruning of diseased, weak, dead, crossing and thickening stems is carried out.
2. Also during this period, rejuvenating pruning is performed as follows: old stems are shortened to a length of about 15-20 cm from the base (by three to five buds), annual basal by 1/3, lateral remaining up to 10-15 cm (by two to three kidneys).

Polyanthus roses are small branched shrubs up to 50-80cm high. Flowers are formed on the shoots of the current and previous year.

First year

1. After planting, light pruning is carried out on the strongest stems by 1/3, thin and weak ones are removed to the “ring”. For vigorous varieties, it is preferable to do light pruning for early flowering.
2. New growths will bloom at the end of the summer period. To prolong the flowering period, regular removal of faded flowers is necessary.

Second year

In the spring, it is necessary to remove weak, diseased and dead branches, pruning of old branches thickening the center of the bush is carried out. Cut back strong stems by 1/3 to maintain a leaderless shrub shape and prolong flowering.

Third year and beyond

In spring, strong shoots are cut by 1/3, branched stems, weak, diseased, old and dead branches are removed, as well as branches that thicken the center of the bush.

Miniature roses are low-growing shrubs with a height of 30 cm to 60 cm, so they do not need much pruning, but there are times when several strong shoots form that spoil the appearance of the bush, making it asymmetric. With the regular appearance of such shoots, it is necessary to prune as for floribunda roses.

First year

Before planting in miniature roses, the stems are cut to a height of 10-15 cm (third - fifth bud), long, damaged roots, weak shoots are removed.

Second year

In summer, buds appear on branched shoots, and strong strong stems grow from the very base.

Third year and beyond

In early spring, the branches are shortened to 10-15 cm (by three to four buds), damaged or weak stems must be removed.

To form a beautiful bush of a climbing rose, it is necessary to carry out pruning, which will stimulate more abundant flowering. Trimming is especially necessary to create a thick covering of a wall or other vertical object.

If a climbing rose is formed horizontally, then the rose blooms more abundantly and more magnificently, as many flowering shoots are formed. Plus, it makes it easier to take care of. With vertical formation, flowering shoots form closer to the top, so they are less numerous, because of this, flowering is not as abundant.

Pruning climbing roses can be divided into 4 groups, depending on the nature of growth and shoot formation.

The first group includes roses blooming from June to July on the shoots of last year's basal stems (variety Dorothy Perkins, Excelza, etc.).

First year

Before planting at a climbing rose seedling, too long and damaged roots are cut, and the stems are cut to a height of 30 cm to stimulate active shoot formation, but this will postpone flowering for the next year.

Second year and beyond

1. On the horizontal shoots of the previous year, buds begin to set abundantly. Growing new ones also continue to form horizontally.
2. In September, faded shoots are pruned, except for 2, 3 last year's ones to form a skeleton. Then the side shoots located on them are cut to 10 cm (for two or three buds).

1. The final appearance of the climbing rose at the end of the second and subsequent years.

The second group of roses is identical to the first, the difference lies in the small number of basal shoots that have grown over the year, due to the formation more shoots at the top of old branches.

First year

Before planting, climbing rose seedlings cut roots that are too long and damaged, and stems to a height of 30 cm, to stimulate active shoot formation, but will postpone flowering until next year.

1. In the spring, young shoots begin to form.
2. New shoots are given a horizontal shape.

Second year

1. In the spring, there is an active growth of new shoots.
2. Flowering will begin in the summer on shoots grown on last year's growth. Basal shoots will also begin to grow, which in the future will be “guides”.

1. Starting from the end of summer, last year's branches are pruned into "guides". Faded side shoots and weak, damaged ones are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds). It is desirable to form new "conductors" horizontally.

Third year and beyond

1. A rose bush blooms on horizontally formed stems from last year and shortened shoots. Basal and replacement shoots begin to grow.

1. From the end of summer, the stems from last year are removed to "guides". Faded side shoots and weak, damaged ones are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds). It is desirable to form new "guides" horizontally, and cut 1-2 last year's stems to a height of 30-40 cm, for the further formation of new basal shoots.

Roses of this group are characterized by flowering on the shoots of the current year, their branches are very flexible, which allows them to be used for pergolas, arches, landscaping vertical walls, fences and arbors. The main skeleton is formed from long flexible stems. It is better to give a horizontal shape, sometimes at a slight angle, so that the lower part of the bush does not become very bare, especially at the initial stage of formation.

First year

Before planting, a rose seedling is cut off too long, damaged roots. Then it is necessary to shorten the side and weak shoots, the developed strong stems are fixed on a support. It is not recommended to cut the rose strongly, as it contributes to the formation of a more bushy shape.

In summer, emerging new basal stems are also tied up. Faded flowers and weak shoots are regularly removed.

Second year

1. New growing skeletal stems are tied up. Flowering will occur on the tops of basal shoots and on lateral growths of branches.
2. By mid-autumn, faded shoots are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to four buds). Remove the weak and sick. New growths continue to tie up.

Third year and beyond

1. In the summer, they continue to tie up new stems that have appeared, and periodically remove faded flowers.

1. By mid-autumn, faded shoots are cut to a height of 15 cm (two to four buds). Remove the weak and sick. If there are old depleted branches, they are also removed to develop new basal stems. New growths continue to tie up.

Roses of the fourth group are pyramidal. Flowers are formed on the shoots of this year. The growth pattern is more moderate, the stems are less flexible, therefore they grow more vertically, their length does not exceed 3 m. They are well suited for vertical gardening.

First year

1. Before planting, a climbing rose seedling is pruned, too long and damaged roots and weak shoots are removed.

2. The existing long stems are tied to a support.

3. The rose will bloom on the shoots of the old branches of the previous year. Faded flowers should be removed periodically. New shoots are starting to appear.

4. In the autumn, pruning is carried out, removing faded branches to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and weak, diseased shoots. To give the bush symmetry, sometimes it is necessary to remove several developed shoots. Young shoots try, if possible, to continue to tie to the support.

Second year and beyond

1. In the spring, pruning of weak, diseased and damaged shoots is carried out.
2. The rose will bloom on the shoots of the old branches of the previous year. Faded flowers should be removed periodically. At the base of the bush, new shoots begin to appear.
3. In the autumn, pruning is carried out, removing faded branches to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and weak, diseased shoots. To give the bush symmetry, sometimes it is necessary to remove several developed shoots. For the development of new basal stems, the old ones are shortened by 2/3 of the length. Young shoots try, if possible, to continue to tie to the support.

Park roses (cultivated wild roses) are one of the most popular groups of roses for landscaping. They are distinguished by a well-developed bush, early abundant flowering and resistance to frost, due to which they winter without shelter on the territory of our country.

They are planted both singly and in groups, to decorate borders, as a hedge.

This group of roses practically does not need pruning, except when, after several years of abundant flowering, the formation of flowers on the bush gradually decreases.

Spray roses bloom on the shoots of past years and this year, some once in the summer months, others until late autumn. By the way, this group of roses is characterized by the formation of bright fruits, respectively, it is recommended to leave faded inflorescences on the bush.

Pruning park roses mainly consists of the following recommendations:

During the summer growing season, it is necessary to form a skeleton of strong shoots, which must be properly positioned and regularly trim weak or damaged growths.

As the rose blooms, wilted flowers are removed to encourage new ones to appear, except for roses that produce attractive bright fruits in the autumn.

At the end of autumn, strong shoots are pinched by 5-10 cm in order to stimulate the formation of new lateral growths in the spring. Besides this species pruning serves as a prevention of such a disease as powdery mildew, since it begins with the defeat of the upper thin parts of the stem.

According to the method of pruning spray roses, 3 groups are distinguished.

Roses included in this group grow a strong dense shrub, regularly forming basal shoots. Flowers appear on lateral shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, growing on old, last year's stems. The pruning of this group is almost minimal. These roses include: wrinkled rose (Riigosa), French rose (Gallica), strongly prickly rose (Spinosissima), musk rose (Moschata) and all their hybrids.

First year

Second year

1. In early spring, strong shoots are pruned, and improperly growing branches are removed.
2. In summer, flowering occurs on shoots growing from last year's old branches, new basal shoots appear.
3. In early autumn, faded flowers, weak growths, diseased, old and damaged stems are removed.

Third year and beyond

4. In the spring, the bush is inspected, if necessary, the branches and shoots are shortened, to stimulate the formation of new basal shoots, 1-2 stems are removed to replace the old weakly flowering ones.

5. In summer, flowering occurs on shoots growing from last year's old branches, new basal shoots appear.

6. At the beginning of autumn, faded flowers, weak growths, diseased, old and damaged stems and branches that violate the symmetry and shape of the shrub are removed.

Roses of the second group bloom only once, with flowers formed on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, growing on old stems older than one year. This group includes the following roses: centifolia rose (Centifolia), moss (Centifolia miiscosa), white (Alba) and many varieties of Damask and park roses with a one-time summer flowering.

First year

Before planting, pruning is not done, only damaged and thick roots, underdeveloped and damaged shoots are removed.

Second year

1. In the spring, long basal stems are cut by 1/3 (since this group is characterized by the formation of too long stems, which, under the weight of buds, often lie on the ground and sometimes break), as well as the removal of branches that violate the symmetrical shape of the bush. Shoots located on faded stems are shortened by two to three buds.
2. In summer, new basal shoots appear. Roses bloom on previously cut off shoots growing from old branches. Summer pruning recommended.
3. In autumn, long stems are cut to prevent damage by strong winds.

Third year and beyond

4. At the beginning of spring, long basal stems are cut by 1/3, shoots on faded branches up to a height of 15 cm (two to three buds) and old weakly flowering and poorly located stems that violate the shape of the bush are removed.

5. In summer, new basal shoots appear. Roses bloom on previously cut off shoots growing from old branches. Summer pruning recommended.

6. Long stems are pruned in autumn to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Roses of the third group are similar to the previous one, only the bush is shorter. This group includes many varieties of park (similar to varieties: Zephyrin Druin, Fontaine, Madame Isaac Pereire), Moyesi roses and tea roses, low varieties of remontant roses.

Unlike the previous group, these roses bloom repeatedly, flowering occurs on shoots of the 1st and 2nd order in summer on stems older than one year, and in autumn on shoots of the current year, characterized by the growth of long basal shoots blooming at the top of the stem.

Flowering is abundant and long, new flowers are formed on the shoots of the 1st and 2nd order, this group is characterized by their dense interlacing, therefore pruning of faded flowers and thinning is recommended.

First year

Similar to the previous groups. Before planting, pruning is not done, only damaged and thick roots, underdeveloped and damaged shoots are removed.

Second year

1. In the spring, it is necessary to cut long annual basal stems by 1/3, shoots on stems that bloomed in the previous year to a height of 8-10 cm (two to four buds), remove weak shoots and break the symmetry of the bush, growing incorrectly.
2. In summer, the rose blooms on shoots growing from last year's stems. New stems are growing. Summer pruning recommended.

3. At the end of summer, shoots of the 2nd order begin to grow on cut stems, flowers form on the shoots of this year.

4. In October, faded flowers, dry, diseased and very long branches are pruned to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

Third year and beyond

5. In the spring, in April - March, shorten the long annual stems by 1/3, the shoots on the stems of flowering in the previous year to a height of 8-10 cm (two to four buds), remove weak shoots and break the symmetry of the bush, growing incorrectly.

6. In summer, the rose blooms on the shoots of the last year's stems. New stems are growing. Recommended summer pruning (removal of faded flowers).

7. At the end of summer, shoots of the 2nd order begin to grow on cut stems, flowers form on the shoots of this year.

8. In October, pruning of faded flowers, dry, diseased and very long branches is carried out to prevent them from being damaged by strong winds.

A rose on a high trunk looks very decorative. This form of roses is obtained by budding on a wild rose or a wrinkled rose. To maintain the bush, the stem must be strong enough. Varieties of hybrid tea roses, ground cover, climbing and floribunda are grafted.

Standard roses are pruned similarly to spray roses. If the bush subsequently grows strongly and becomes heavy for the stem, then strong pruning is applied.

For uniform crown development, grafting is done with an eye on two sides of the trunk.

If a variety of hybrid tea or floribunda rose was grafted onto the trunk, then the bush will grow more upwards and need pruning corresponding to the group of roses to which the variety belonged.

If vaccinated hybrid tea rose as a rule, pruning is reduced to shortening the main branches up to 15 cm from the base (by three to five buds), if the floribunda rose, annual shoots are shortened to 25 cm from the base (by six to eight buds), two-year ones - up to 15 cm from the base (by three - six kidneys).

First year

1. In early spring, strong stems are cut to a height of 15 cm (for three to five buds).
2. In autumn, in the second half of October - early November, the main, flowering and non-flowering non-woody branches are cut off.

Second year and beyond

3. In the spring, diseased, weak, dead and intersecting branches are removed, the middle of the bush should be free.

4. In the spring, young shoots are also pruned to a height of 12-15 cm from the base (for three to four buds), the rest of the side shoots are up to 10 cm from the base (for two to four buds).

To create a beautiful weeping standard rose, you must use it for grafting as ground cover roses, characterized by the growth of strong shoots during the season, and climbing varieties of roses of the first group. For their pruning, use the method corresponding to this group of roses.

Pruning is reduced to shortening faded two-year-old stems into a ring at the end of summer, new shoots of this year are left to bloom next. With their small number, it is recommended to leave a couple of two-year-old stems, which are located most symmetrically relative to the center of the bush, shortening them to a height of 10 cm (by two to three buds).

In order for the rose to have a beautiful well-groomed appearance and regularly bloom profusely, pruning is necessary. Of course, roses can grow and bloom without it, for example, many roses climbing group rarely need pruning, but this is rather an exception. Most rose bushes need regular pruning.

If the shrub is not cut for a long time, if diseased, dried, damaged branches are not removed, it becomes less attractive, moreover, over time, the flowers become smaller, flowering becomes less plentiful.

First year

1. At the beginning of spring, damaged, dry branches are pruned, about half of all main stems per ring. Side shoots are cut to a height of 10-15 cm from the base (two to three buds). Fertilize the soil with compost or rotted manure.
2. In summer, new basal shoots appear, flowering occurs on the shoots of old branches. Approximately once every 3 weeks, it is desirable to foliarly feed in order to promote the formation of new strong stems.

Second year

1. In the spring, in the month of March, the old remaining stems are removed, young shoots growing on last year's branches are shortened to a height of 15 cm from the base (by two to three buds). Apply fertilizer.
2. In summer, the rose will bloom on young annual shoots. The new skeleton of the bush is formed by young stems of the current and last years.

When a rose bush does not have enough internal strength to continue flowering, or when flowering comes to an end, its flowers begin to wither, so they must be removed. This process is known as "dead bud pruning", which is done to maintain an attractive appearance. appearance rose bush and stimulation of continuation of flowering. Pruning causes the rose to form new shoots and buds instead of wasting energy on fading flowers or seed formation. During flowering, you should regularly remove fading flowers from the rose bush until the branches begin to stiffen in preparation for winter.

Steps

Part 1

Preparing for pruning faded buds

Part 2

Pruning for the correct subsequent formation of shoots

Find a rose leaf that faces the direction you want. When examining a rose bush, you should note that its leaves consist of smaller leaves, united on the leaf stalk in groups of three or five. For the correct pruning of a rose, its branch must be cut directly above the desired leaf, consisting of 5 or more small leaves. This five-leaf leaf (called a true leaf) should grow in the direction you want the new shoot to grow. For example, if you want the new shoot to face outward, then cut off the branch above the leaf that also points outward from the bush.

1. Pay attention to the growing point. Directly above the junction of the leaf cutting with the branch, you can notice a dark dot. This point is a growth point from which a new shoot can subsequently grow and bloom. You need to prune the branch above the growing point.

   • If you need to prune and remove wilted flowers from a large number bushes, it is not necessary to check the presence of a growth point each time. Luckily, the growing points of roses are very close to the leaves, so you just need to prune about 5mm above the desired leaf.

2. Cut the branch at a 45 degree angle. In no case should you cut perpendicular to the branch. A beveled cut will help to ensure that the water that falls on it drains quickly and does not provoke the development of a fungal infection on the shoot.

   • There are diametrically opposed opinions about pruning roses at an angle of 45 degrees. Some sources claim that pruning at an angle does not affect the healing process of the cut, nor the subsequent number of flowers on the new shoot.
   • Consider treating each fresh cut with a dab of PVA glue. This will reduce the risk of infection of the bush with any disease through the injured area.

• If you want to reduce the size of a rose bush, cut branches closer to its base. This is especially true for fast growing rose varieties such as David Austin's English roses. However, the lower the pruning is, the more time it will take for the rose to form new shoots with buds.
• If you do not cut off faded roses, then seeds and rose hips will begin to form from them. Pruning will allow you to enjoy the rose for longer in its growing season.
• Cut young and tender rose shoots can be thrown into compost pit. However, stiff, thick branches of roses should not be thrown there, as they will take too long to decompose compared to young branches.