Physicist and astronomer Stefan Feeney of University College London, one of the...
The rose is the acknowledged and undisputed "queen of the garden". Despite such a high title of this beautiful flower, caring for it is not at all difficult. If you are just planning to organize a rose garden in your garden, but do not know exactly how to grow roses, then in this article you will find answers to many of your questions.
There are a lot of types and varieties of roses and many of them have their own characteristics agricultural techniques that must be taken into account when growing. The basic rules of care are about the same - moderate watering, pruning, fertilizing, disease control, pests and shelter for the winter.
Growing climbing roses
How to grow floribunda roses
Planting and caring for ground cover roses
Planting and growing park roses
Rules for growing home roses
Learning to grow roses from cuttings
How to properly cover roses for the winter
The best varieties of climbing roses
The best varieties of floribunda roses
The floribunda rose was developed by crossing musk, polyanthus and hybrid tea roses. Like polyanthus, it is quite resistant to diseases and winter-hardy. Compared to hybrid tea, it has a longer flowering period, although it may be inferior to them in elegance.
However, this the best decoration garden: the peculiarity of this variety lies in the arrangement of flowers. They grow on the shoot not singly, but as a whole inflorescence (several dozen flowers each). It is easy to care for floribunda. Therefore, the floribunda rose is often grown to decorate parks and gardens, especially in group compositions.
The floribunda variety includes roses that have large inflorescences and an almost continuous flowering period. They are most similar to hybrid tea both in the shape of the flower and in the range of colors.
Require increased attention to themselves: you must create optimal conditions for their active growth and flowering.
Growing conditions
Since the plant is not, it needs moderate conditions. So let's figure out how to take care of home rose to this beautiful flower become a real decoration of your interior.
Temperature and humidity
V summer time year the temperature should be moderate, and in the winter season - cool. At home, miniature roses suffer not so much from elevated temperature air, how much from overheating or drying out of the soil in the container. The optimum temperature for keeping summer period- +20-25°C. However, slight daily fluctuations in temperature will only benefit the plant. 
In winter, in order for the rose to rest, it is transferred to a cool place with a temperature of + 10-15 ° C.
Important!On a bright sunny day, try not to splash water directly on the flower. This can lead to damage to the buds and the development of fungal diseases.
Lighting
Home rose, like most, is a light-loving culture. At the same time, overheating of the bushes should not be allowed, so it is customary to place them on the southeast or west window. In order to protect the flower from direct sun rays, it is better to take it out into the open air (balcony or terrace). 
If this is not possible, then it is advisable to transfer the pot to another window or darken it.
pot and soil
Roses can be planted in containers of all shapes and sizes. The only condition is that there must be enough space in the container so that the bush can develop and the air circulates freely. You are required to find a compromise between beauty and functionality. 
It is advisable to transplant overgrown bushes into a larger container. When choosing a pot, the color of the flowers and the style of the surrounding interior should also be taken into account. By container type the best option are wooden or ceramic pots.
Plastic pots are allowed, but they are less reliable. in them in the summer quickly dries out, which leads to the rapid withering of the buds. It is also better to refuse clay pots - they quickly lose water. 
The soil must be air and moisture permeable.
Use the following nutrient substrate:
- sod land (4 parts);
- humus (4 parts);
- sand (1 part).
The pot must have a good drainage system to allow excess moisture to pass freely through the soil. However, the size of the drainage holes should be such that water does not flow out of the container too quickly.
Care rules
Next, we will take a closer look at how to care for roses at home. These flowers love good as the soil dries out, top dressing in phase and timely. 
Watering
Regular watering of rose plants is especially important in summer during flowering and growth. Drying out of the earth is dangerous for them. Therefore, water the flower as soon as the soil dries out (especially in small containers). However, do not overdo it with watering, the soil in the pot should not turn sour.
In spring, the plant should not feel a lack of moisture or light. Sometimes in the evening the plant is sprayed with a cool boiled water from a spray bottle. As soon as the bush outgrows the pot, it must be transferred to a larger container, trying not to disturb the roots. 
After spring frosts and with the establishment of a warm night temperature, it is time to transfer the flower pot to Fresh air(to the garden or loggia). Home plant accustom to the bright sun gradually. For this purpose, the flower is first placed in a shady corner and only after 10-14 days is transferred to a sunny area.
Summer
Summer care room rose consists in regular watering, spraying, fertilizing, as well as removing wilted parts of the plant. So that the flower does not overheat in summer heat, monitor the condition of the plant. It is important to notice signs of diseases and pests in time. 
If you notice that the bush is growing rapidly, and the container is getting too tight, wait until evening and transfer the rose to a new spacious container. If the flower located on the window is illuminated only from one side, then it naturally reaches for the sunlight.
To ensure uniform illumination of the flower, it is necessary to turn the pot from time to time. Thanks to this procedure, you will avoid the problem of developing a one-sided plant.
autumn
In autumn, at low night temperatures (up to 15-12 ° C), transfer the rose from the balcony to the room and place it on the windowsill of the south window. After the flowering phase, start preparing the plant for wintering: water less often (leave the soil dry for 1-2 days before watering) and gradually stop feeding. 
Miniature flowering roses in pots today occupy one of the most honorable places in home gardening. Many flower growers buy and grow these graceful plants, despite their capriciousness, because beautiful rose in a pot is not only an exquisite design element, but also the pride of every housewife. V comfortable conditions it can bloom almost the whole year, but for this the flower needs to be properly cared for. How to care for a home rose and what conditions does it need? You will find answers to these questions in this article.
In a pot culture, as a rule, undersized or represented by several varietal groups are grown:
- Bengal roses. They are not found in the wild, so there is an assumption that they are artificially bred specifically for home growing. Roses were brought to European countries in the 18th century. The bushes are undersized (up to 50 cm), the leaves are small and narrow, the buds are terry, different color palette except for shades. Flowering is long - from spring to the New Year. Plants do not need rest and do not drop leaves for the winter.
- Miniature Chinese. This is a dwarf form of the same Bengal roses, which is very different small flowers(1-2 cm in diameter). They were brought to Europe in early XIX century. The bushes are low (15–25 cm), dense, the leaves are small and openwork, the buds are densely double.
- Mini Flora or Patio. A relatively new group of varieties, occupying an intermediate position between Floribunda and miniature roses. It is a multi-flowered low-growing plant that blooms profusely almost all year round. It is believed that Patio roses were bred by Irish breeders in the 80s of the last century. Today it is one of the most promising directions in pot culture and landscape design.
- Polyanthus roses. Were obtained by crossing dwarf multi-flowered roses with forms in late XIX century. Their height is only 30-40 cm, the bushes are compact, dense and very decorative. Buds can be different sizes(3-5 cm) and color palette, except for yellow.
Location selection
Home roses are photophilous, therefore the best place for them is a window sill on the south or southwest side of the house. In summer, it is better to take the pots out into the air, and if this is not possible, then the plants need to be shaded from the sun. If this is not done, the leaves and petals may get burned, and flowering will occur in an accelerated mode, which will not have the best effect on the decorativeness of the rose. In addition, about once a week, the pot on the window must be rotated, which will ensure uniform development of the crown.
Temperature and lighting
The temperature regime for a room rose should be as close as possible to natural conditions. In summer, it can suffer from excessive heat, overheating and drying of the soil, and in winter from drafts and cold. Optimum temperature during the flowering period, 22-25 ° C is considered and this degree should be maintained at home.
You can not place a rose next to indoor heat sources (batteries, heaters). For the dormant period, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to 10-15 ° C, and if possible, then move the plant to a cool place. also in winter time the flower may need additional lighting.
Watering and humidity
Home rose loves wet air, and since it is usually excessively dry indoors, the plant must be sprayed periodically. During the period of active vegetation and in summer, spraying is carried out with settled water daily. It is necessary to ensure that drops of water do not stagnate in the axils of the leaves. In winter and in cloudy weather, it is not necessary to spray the flower. A comfortable microclimate can be provided by a pallet or any container with water near the plant.
The frequency of watering depends on the growing season. In winter, when the plant is resting and, watering is rarely carried out, only so that the soil does not dry out. In the spring, when the rose wakes up in its pot, you need to water more often. In summer, during flowering, watering is carried out daily or as needed, making sure that the soil is always slightly moist.
Long and abundant flowering takes away a lot of strength from the rose that needs to be replenished. Since liquid fertilizers are preferable for it, during watering the plant can be fed with a solution of litter, mullein, as well as ready-made complex mixtures. With the simultaneous use of mineral and organic fertilizers, we feed the flower alternately 1 time in 2 weeks.
Transfer
A room rose is difficult to adapt to a new place, so a transplant is carried out only as a last resort, when the flower has grown strongly and it is cramped in the same pot. Of course, if you bought a rose in a disposable pot with a substrate, then a transplant is inevitable. However, do not rush. Before, let her adapt for 1-2 weeks, and if during this time the flower does not wither and weaken, you can safely proceed with the transplant. To make the process painless, the bush is moved to new pot along with an earthen clod.
pruning
Formative pruning for a rose in a pot, which is cared for at home, is a must. It is carried out after all the buds have faded, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. This usually happens in October-November, sometimes later. During pruning, thin out the bush, remove all faded buds, damaged and weak branches, and shorten healthy ones to 5–6 buds. Leaves can be left. During the dormant period, it is not necessary to fertilize and water the flower.
Some roses don't need rest. If your beauty blooms continuously, then pruning can be done in the spring, before the next flowering, since the movement of juices slows down during this period. Now that you know how to care for a room rose in a pot, there will be no problems with growing a capricious "queen of flowers".
Video "Home rose care"
From this video you will learn how to care for a home flower.
There are many fans of the rose, but few people decide to plant it in their garden, assuming that they need it special care. But the rose is not so whimsical as it is commonly believed. It is only necessary to follow the rules of its breeding.
Today, rose seedlings are sold in abundance. However, it is not a fact that the plant will take root and will be of the promised color and size, as we would like. Therefore, I would like to know how not to make a mistake and choose the right rose seedlings, based on the fact that not all roses winter well in the conditions of the Moscow region and the northern regions.
Roses successfully grow in one place up to 10 years. For their successful cultivation, it is very important to choose the right place for planting. Best suited sunny places, protected from the winds, with fertile, but not waterlogged soil with acidity close to neutral. You can plant in spring or autumn. Planted in a hole up to 1 m deep, filling it with compost or other rotted organic fertilizer. When planting seedlings, care must be taken that the grafting site is 5 cm underground. Roses do not like alkaline soil and die when high level ground water. Before planting, they are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Then the plants are watered and spud.
After planting, special attention should be paid to agrotechnical care, since many diseases are aggravated by improper agricultural practices (excessive fertilizer, dryness or waterlogging, sudden temperature fluctuations). Agricultural practices and timing of their implementation depend on natural conditions. And the number of irrigations depends on the duration of the growing season, the amount of precipitation, the proximity of groundwater, temperature conditions, soil structure (how much it is able to retain and retain moisture). Roses are watered starting in spring, about once a week. Stop watering in autumn. Sprinkler irrigation is not recommended as it increases disease susceptibility.
Throughout the growing season, roses should be carefully cared for, spring pruning, forming bushes, loosening the soil around the bushes, watering, top dressing, weed control, mulching, pest control, winterization and shelter ... When pruning, you can select suitable shoots for cuttings.
Pruning roses and shaping bushes
Every year, with the onset of spring, roses are pruned. Reasons why roses are pruned:
1. Correction of the shape of the bushes after the previous growing season. Last summer the branches of roses grew in an undesirable direction. To do this, pruning of those branches that have violated the shape of the bushes.
2. Pruning of bushes is carried out in such a way that, according to the plan of the gardener:
- bushes will produce large, single flowers on long stalks;
- bushes will produce many flowers on many shoots. V this case flowers will be smaller, but in large numbers.
3. Rejuvenate the bushes by cutting off old branches and forcing the bushes to produce new young shoots.
After the chance of frost has passed and the buds have not yet opened, it is a good time to prune your roses.
Look closely at the roses first. All branches that have grown inside the bushes must be removed. This will thin out the rose bushes and allow for better ventilation. Then it is necessary to remove branches to living wood that have been damaged or died off during the winter. On strongly tall bushes, all frail shoots are pruned. If the bush is weak, then such shoots are also left, but the branch is shortened by at least one bud. This stimulates growth and strengthens the plant itself. Pruning roses should be such that the existing roots can feed all the branches of the above-ground part of the bushes. This important condition pruning. In this case, the roses will normally grow shoots and bloom well.
How to Properly Prune Roses FOR GROWING LARGE FLOWERS
In addition to sanitary pruning roses with large flowers, they are pruned to grow large cut flowers. In this case, on each branch that you left, you need to cut off the shoot so as to leave 3-4 buds on it. This contributes to the development of powerful shoots from a small number of buds left. On such long shoots large flowers are formed.
Pruning roses for GROWING FLOWERS IN A FLOWER BED
If you want roses to bloom profusely in a flower bed, then pruning must be done so that 3-6 buds are left on the shoots left after preliminary pruning for growth. As a result of such pruning, many flowers will appear, smaller and on smaller pedicels.
Pruning roses type FLORIBUNDA OR HYBRIDS OF TEA ROSES for growing in a flower bed
If you want to create a lush bush of these species, then you need to carry out a formative pruning. Depending on how you imagine this bush in the future, prune in this dependence. First, make a sanitary pruning, and then proceed to the formation of a bush. It is difficult to say how many kidneys should be left at the same time. It can be 3 or 6. It all depends on the bush itself that you decide to form. If the flowering and growth of such bushes suddenly decrease, then later you will have to make a stronger pruning of roses.
Pruning MINIATURE ROSES
In general, miniature rose bushes are pruned in the same way as hybrid tea rose bushes. It is sanitary and shaping pruning. Leave 2-3 buds on the branches. The length of the branch is not more than 4″ (10cm). If you do not cut the plant, then it comes into flowering much later. In summer, faded flowers, dry twigs, wilted leaves are removed. This is done so that pests or diseases do not appear on them, as well as in order to improve the decorative effect of the bush.
CLIMBING ROSES Pruning
Spring pruning of climbing roses is done only at the ends of the branches. If the plant is older than 4 years, then the old shoots are cut out completely to the base of the soil after flowering, the young shoots are not touched and are not pruned during the year, since it is at their ends that roses will bloom next year.
ROSE CUTTING TIPS
1. Early timely pruning stimulates the flowering of rose bushes. Pruning too early before the end of frost will slow down the flowering of roses.
2. Late pruning of roses slows down the beginning of the growing season.
3. Feed rose bushes after pruning.
4. In order for dormant buds to start growing on climbing roses, it is necessary to tie up a young branch in a horizontal or inclined position.
5. All sections larger than 1 cm must be covered with garden pitch or Novikov's liquid.
6. After pruning, the plants should be sprayed with a 1% solution of copper sulphate (100 g per 10 liters of water) or a 1-3% solution of Bordeaux liquid.
Groups of roses such as Spinosissima, Rugosa, Gallica and their hybrids, Moschata almost do not need pruning. Flowers are produced on lateral shoots of biennial and older branches. Pruning of roses is carried out in case of damage to the branches or natural death.
It is best to prune with a knife so as not to crush the branch. The knife for pruning roses must be sharp. Disinfect it before cutting.
Pruning is done at a height of 5-8 mm above the kidney so that the future shoot does not dry out. The cut should be made obliquely from the kidney.
Soil loosening and mulching
Roses need constant care, as well as loosening the soil around the plants (to a depth of 5-10 cm), especially during the hot period, after long rains, when a solid crust forms. As a result, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates the loosened soil, the earth warms up well, and loosening saves water. Deep loosening is dangerous for roses, since even slight damage to the roots harms the plant. Usually loosening begins in May, and ends in July-August in order to avoid encouraging the plant to further growth.
When caring for roses, mulching is used by sprinkling the surface of the earth with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such backfilling with a layer of up to 10 cm allows you to reduce the amount of watering and loosening, improves physical and Chemical properties soil, conditions of vital activity of soil microorganisms. Therefore, in the spring, immediately after spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils decorative look, later it will be possible to seal it into the soil by loosening.
Preparing roses for winter and shelter
An important quality of roses is their resistance to low temperatures. However, when choosing a variety for unfavorable soils and slopes, you need to take into account the characteristics of roses. Large-flowered, multi-flowered varieties should be especially protected, which should be spudded and covered with plastic wrap for the winter.
For the winter, rose bushes are carefully bent to the ground, covered with dry material (peat, spruce branches, leaves, sawdust), an old oilcloth (cellophane film) is placed on top. Then the bushes will reliably cover the snow. In early spring, when it gets a little warmer, the winter cover is gradually removed. Roses are fully opened only after the soil has thawed. Cut off dead branches and, if necessary, shorten the shoots. The variety is chosen taking into account the place of planting - a bed in the garden, a flower bed, a balcony or a pot.
Roses are perennial crops grown in open field. With such cultivation, much attention is paid to both preventive measures and the protection of plants from diseases and pests. Great importance when cultivating roses, it has a selection of varieties that are characterized by increased resistance to diseases.
Fertilizers and dressings for roses
An important part of rose care is proper nutrition. It should be remembered that roses do not like acidic soil, require constant application of organic fertilizers, a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients. To neutralize acidic soils, calcium is needed: dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer are used.
Nitrogen promotes plant growth, roses need it after pruning (in early May), during the formation of new shoots, in preparation for re-flowering. Deadline nitrogen application - early August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic top dressing, "Effekton - C", "Effekton - DC".
Phosphorus is necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate)
Potassium is needed during the period of budding and flowering, as well as when preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is applied from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.
Trace elements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed throughout the growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granular mineral fertilizer) and "Agricola - Rose", any complete fertilizer (always contains trace elements) and wood ash.
In the first year after planting, when filling the soil with fertilizers, there is no need for top dressing. In subsequent years, roses need regular nutrition. Mineral fertilizers, primarily nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate, contribute in early spring following the removal of shelter and pruning. After fertilizing, the soil is dug up to a depth of 10 cm. In the future, top dressing is timed to coincide with the phases of plant growth and development - the beginning of flowering, new growth of shoots.
A common mistake is to add fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil in spring to plant roses. For young seedlings, this is simply fatal. organic fertilizers It is better to give plants in liquid form.
1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted with 10 liters of water. Bird droppings should ferment in a barrel for up to 10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1 liter of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water. Water only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After feeding such unpleasantly smelling nutrients from above, you need to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk, then loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.
Usually in spring, roses get good nutrition from mulching carried out in late autumn, in early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus are poured into the bushes ... These organic matter - great source humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms more intensively in spring root system, and if it is fed with nitrogen at this time (about 1 tablespoon of urea / urea), then the results will be excellent.
An approximate dose of fertilizers per 1 sq.m: ammonium nitrate 20 grams, superphosphate 30 grams, potassium salt 10 grams. In summer, liquid feeding with mullein is effective. Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is completed at the end of July. In August, for better ripening of shoots, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. For the same purpose, watering is limited.
There are many fans of the rose, but few people decide to plant it in their garden, assuming that it needs special care. But the rose is not so whimsical as it is commonly believed. It is only necessary to follow the rules of its breeding.
Today, rose seedlings are sold in abundance. However, it is not a fact that the plant will take root and will be of the promised color and size, as we would like. Therefore, I would like to know how not to make a mistake and choose the right rose seedlings, based on the fact that not all roses winter well in the conditions of the Moscow region and northern regions (see on a separate page).
Roses successfully grow in one place up to 10 years. For their successful cultivation, it is very important to choose the right place for planting. Best suited sunny places, protected from the winds, with fertile, but not waterlogged soil with acidity close to neutral. You can plant in spring or autumn. Planted in a hole up to 1 m deep, filling it with compost or other rotted organic fertilizer. When planting seedlings, care must be taken that the grafting site is 5 cm underground. Roses do not like alkaline soil and die at high groundwater levels. Before planting, they are cut at a height of 15-20 cm. Then the plants are watered and spud.
After planting, special attention should be paid to agrotechnical care, since many diseases are aggravated by improper agricultural practices (excessive fertilizer, dryness or waterlogging, sudden temperature fluctuations). Agricultural practices and timing of their implementation depend on natural conditions. And the number of irrigations depends on the duration of the growing season, the amount of precipitation, the proximity of groundwater, temperature conditions, soil structure (how much it is able to retain and retain moisture). Roses are watered starting in spring, about once a week. Stop watering in autumn. Sprinkler irrigation is not recommended as it increases disease susceptibility.
Throughout the growing season, roses are followed by careful care, spring pruning, shaping the bushes, loosening the soil around the bushes, watering, top dressing, weed control, mulching, pest control, winterization and shelter ... When pruning, you can select suitable shoots for cuttings ... - see "".
Pruning roses and shaping bushes
Pruning roses is a simple operation, but it requires knowledge of some rules. The main pruning is carried out in spring at a height of 20-25 cm, with the exception of curly and park species, in which only old shoots are removed.
The shoots are cut with a sharp pruner at an angle of 45 degrees, to healthy wood, 5-6 cm above the developed bud. The cut surface should be smooth, without cracks and burrs, be sure to cover with garden pitch. Cut to a bud located on the outside of the shoot, so as not to obscure the center of the bush. Sometimes in strong rose plants, after pruning, 2-3 shoots grow from one bud. Leave one, the rest must be deleted. All weak, thin, crossing, diseased, dead shoots are cut to the level of the soil or healthy wood.
A number of shoots are left on the bush, at which air exchange and good illumination of the bush can be ensured. In this case, the development of fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew, black spot, rust and others that occur in stagnant air.
The formation of bushes requires special attention the first summer after planting. All small growing inwards, shoots thickening the plant, as well as those growing from the place of grafting or the root neck (in own-rooted ones) are cut into a ring, strongly growing ones are pinched. In June, the forming prunings are finished so as not to cause the growth of new shoots, which, before they have matured, freeze slightly, often causing roses to be infested with diseases.
During the summer for more decorative and longer abundant flowering faded flowers must be removed. In grafted roses, wild rosehip root shoots are promptly removed to the base, which is especially abundant in the first summer, and should be less in subsequent years.
In subsequent years, summer pruning consists in shortening individual, too violently growing shoots, especially in bushes. large-flowered rose and crown rose standard. However, the most important task of summer pruning is to encourage the plant to bloom again. In order for the bush to give the maximum number of flowers that this or that variety is capable of giving, it is necessary to correctly implement summer pruning. You can’t just remove a faded rose flower with a simple pinch, that is, you tore off one flower and that’s it - this is a big mistake, because new escape with a flower will appear very high. It will be elongated, thin and easily bendable. It is necessary to remove the flower even before the petals fall completely, as soon as the flower loses its attractiveness. You need to cut off the flower below, then the new shoot in this place will grow strong and will hold tight (when pruning, leave a 6-8 mm stump above the eye).
Soil loosening and mulching
Roses need constant care, as well as loosening the soil around the plants (to a depth of 5-10 cm), especially during the hot period, after long rains, when a solid crust forms. As a result, all weeds are destroyed, air easily penetrates the loosened soil, the earth warms up well, and loosening saves water. Deep loosening is dangerous for roses, since even slight damage to the roots harms the plant. Usually loosening begins in May, and ends in July-August in order to avoid encouraging the plant to further growth.
When caring for roses, mulching is used by sprinkling the surface of the earth with peat, humus, peat-manure compost. Such backfilling with a layer of up to 10 cm reduces the amount of irrigation and loosening, improves the physical and chemical properties of the soil, and the conditions for the vital activity of soil microorganisms. Therefore, in the spring, immediately after spring work, you need to pour mulching material between the rose bushes, it is better to do this work before the buds open. If the bedding spoils the decorative look, it will later be possible to embed it into the soil by loosening.
Preparing roses for winter and shelter
An important quality of roses is their resistance to low temperatures. However, when choosing a variety for unfavorable soils and slopes, you need to take into account the characteristics of roses. Large-flowered, multi-flowered varieties should be especially protected, which should be spudded and covered with plastic wrap for the winter.
For the winter, rose bushes are carefully bent to the ground, covered with dry material (peat, spruce branches, leaves, sawdust), an old oilcloth (cellophane film) is placed on top. Then the bushes will reliably cover the snow. In early spring, when it gets a little warmer, the winter cover is gradually removed. Roses are fully opened only after the soil has thawed. Cut off dead branches and, if necessary, shorten the shoots. The variety is chosen taking into account the place of planting - a bed in the garden, a flower bed, a balcony or a pot.
Roses are perennial crops grown outdoors. With such cultivation, much attention is paid to both preventive measures and the protection of plants from diseases and pests. Of great importance in the cultivation of roses is the selection of varieties that are characterized by increased resistance to disease.
Fertilizers and dressings for roses
Proper nutrition is an important part of rose care. It should be remembered that roses do not like acidic soil, require constant application of organic fertilizers, a sufficient amount of a variety of nutrients. To neutralize acidic soils, calcium is needed: dolomite flour, chalk, slaked lime, wood ash, organic fertilizer deoxidizer are used.
Nitrogen promotes plant growth, roses need it after pruning (in early May), during the formation of new shoots, in preparation for re-flowering. The deadline for nitrogen application is the beginning of August (fertilizers that cause growth: urea, liquid organic top dressing, "Effekton - C", "Effekton - DC".
Phosphorus is necessary for the maturation of strong shoots. It affects the intensity and quality of flowering. It is applied from June to September inclusive (simple or double superphosphate)
Potassium is needed during the period of budding and flowering, as well as when preparing roses for winter. Potassium is easily washed out of the soil, it is applied from June to October in the form of potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), potassium chloride.
Trace elements (magnesium, iron, boron, manganese) are needed throughout the growing season. The absence of iron in the soil causes chlorosis, the absence of boron and manganese reduces the immunity of plants. Apply "Agricola for flowering plants" (granular mineral fertilizer) and "Agricola - Rose", any complete fertilizer (always contains trace elements) and wood ash.
In the first year after planting, when filling the soil with fertilizers, there is no need for top dressing. In subsequent years, roses need regular nutrition. Mineral fertilizers, primarily nitrogen in the form of ammonium nitrate, are applied in early spring after the removal of cover and pruning. After fertilizing, the soil is dug up to a depth of 10 cm. In the future, top dressing is timed to coincide with the phases of plant growth and development - the beginning of flowering, new growth of shoots.
A common mistake is to add fresh manure or bird droppings to the soil in spring to plant roses. For young seedlings, this is simply fatal. Organic fertilizers are best given to plants in liquid form.
1 liter of mushy mullein (cow dung) or bird droppings is diluted with 10 liters of water. Bird droppings should ferment in a barrel for up to 10 days, only after that it is used, once again diluted at the rate of 0.5-1 liter of the prepared solution per 10 liters of water. Water only under the bushes so that flies do not start. After top dressing with such unpleasantly smelling nutrients, you need to “powder” the soil with wood ash or chalk from above, then loosen it to a depth of 5-6 cm.
Usually in spring, roses get good nutrition from mulching carried out in late autumn, in early November. Usually, decomposed cow dung or peat-dung humus, or simply well-prepared peat, or vegetable humus are poured into the bushes ... These organic substances are an excellent source of humus. Thanks to this nutrition, the rose forms a root system more intensively in the spring, and if it is fed with nitrogen at this time (about 1 tablespoon of urea / carbamide), then the results will be excellent.
An approximate dose of fertilizers per 1 sq.m: ammonium nitrate 20 grams, superphosphate 30 grams, potassium salt 10 grams. In summer, liquid feeding with mullein is effective. Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is completed at the end of July. In August, for better ripening of shoots, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. For the same purpose, watering is limited ...
