The subtleties of pruning fruit trees. Pruning fruit trees in spring Do-it-yourself high-altitude pruning of trees

" Trees

Tree pruning is the key to success and a must-have procedure that every experienced gardener knows about. Any fruit tree requires constant and careful care. Only in this case it will give a rich harvest.

Fruit trees such as apple, pear and stone fruits need pruning. They are very picky about pruning. Why prune fruit trees?

Pruning gardeners solve several problems at once:

1. Growth and fruiting.
2. Reducing the size of the crown.
3. The phytosanitary task is to create conditions unfavorable for pests and diseases.

The procedure for pruning trees prolongs their life and leads to a rich harvest.

If little light enters the crown, then the branches inside the crown do not bear fruit and eventually die. Fruits are formed only on those branches of the tree where the light hits.

AND if tree pruning was done rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on hard-to-reach branches, located, as a rule, high.

Thanks to the pruning process the crown of the tree is formed correctly. This leads to the growth of side branches and allows you to get more fruit on the available branches.

When and what kind of trees in the garden can be pruned

Pruning fruit trees in a particular season depends on the following factors:

• what goal the gardener wants to achieve with this procedure;
• in what climatic conditions is the garden located;
• from the type of tree.

When is the best time to prune: spring, summer, winter or autumn?

In central and northern regions Russia not recommended to do autumn pruning , because due to severe frosts, the wounds on the trees will not have time to heal.

This also happens because the movement of sap in the tree slows down, as it goes into a state of rest. As a result, the tree can become sick and die.

Therefore, in these regions it is best to do pruning in early spring and not in autumn. It is important to bear in mind that the procedure can be carried out as soon as the air temperature has risen above 0℃.

Besides it is important to start pruning from old trees, since the buds swell faster on them than on young ones, it is recommended that pruning be done strictly before the buds swell.

Pruning fruit trees in spring:

In the southern regions of the country, pruning can be done in winter period . This is due to the fact that in the south the frosts are not as severe as in the north.

Winter pruning is primarily carried out in order to rejuvenate old trees and create the correct crown for young seedlings.

Also winter pruning is often done to reduce the fruiting of young trees. It is believed that a tree that gives rich harvests for 2-3 years in a row should be given a rest.

In addition, from high yield thin branches of a young tree can break. Therefore, it is important to cut off excess branches in winter. In winter, gardeners prune first pome rocks, and then stone fruits.

The ideal dimensions of a fruit tree are 3 m high and 3 m wide. They will collect most harvest without the help of stepladders or ladders.

Some gardeners believe that summer is the best time for pruning.. But in this case We are talking about trees from 3 years and older. They claim that pruning during the summer months results in a thriving growth of new shoots.

In addition, if pruning is done during the fruit filling, the quality of the fruit is noticeably improved.

Another plus summer pruning is the sap secreted by the tree. It covers the wound, which leads to rapid healing, and also acts as a protection against pests.

Majority experienced gardeners It is believed that pruning is best done when the tree is resting. Therefore, they prefer early spring.

At what age should fruit trees be pruned?

This procedure can be started annual shoots for crown formation.

If the tree has already reached 10-15 years of age, it is considered old. In such a tree, the number of growths and productivity are reduced. He needs a rejuvenating pruning.

To do this, cut branches into 3-7-year-old wood. Thus, the crown is reduced. But by next year, young shoots will thicken it. It is important to ensure that the number of cuts on one side of the branch does not exceed three.

Which plants to do and which not

The pruning procedure is required for almost all fruit trees. Since it is it that leads to an increase in yield, allows you to accelerate the growth of a tree, and also protects its many pests and diseases.

Trim, apricot, cherry plum only when leaves appear on the trees. If this is done while the tree is dormant, then pruning can lead to fungal and disease damage to the trees.

In summer, you can remove dried branches, also shorten new shoots and remove branches that interfere with the crown.

Features of the procedure

Trimming trees is important to do carefully and follow the basic rules so as not to harm.

Timing

First of all, you need to decide on the appropriate pruning season. It will depend on the type and age of fruit trees, as well as on the location of the garden and the climate.

Preparing garden tools

The presence of all the tools necessary for carrying out this procedure will play a large role as a result of pruning.

In order to avoid an increase in diameter damaged area on the tree Use only sharp tools for cutting.

• garden hacksaw;
• secateurs;
• air secateurs - secateurs on a long rod, for trimming branches at the top;
• ladder;
• glasses;
• garden pitch or paint on drying oil - the means necessary to process the cut point.

Do not trim with a rusty tool. Otherwise, the tree may get sick and die as a result.

Scheme and technology

Before proceeding with the pruning itself, it is necessary to determine why it is necessary and draw up a plan of action.

Below are the main goals that gardeners achieve with this procedure:

• form the correct crown of the tree;
• strengthen thin young shoots;
• remove crossing branches, defuse the crown to allow sunlight to penetrate it;
• remove diseased branches, making it possible to grow healthy;
• increase in the number of fruiting branches;
• prepare the tree for the winter.

If it is necessary to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.

Once the goal is determined, it is important to learn pruning techniques. Several techniques are known, among which the most popular are three:

1. Cut on the kidney. This technique helps to set the correct direction of branch growth. You should find a branch with good growth. The cutting plastic of the secateurs should be turned towards the remaining part of the branch. The cut is made at a slight angle of 5 mm. in front of the kidney. New branch will grow in the direction the kidney is facing.
2. cut on the ring. This technique is used when it is necessary to remove a full-fledged branch that grows inside the crown, interferes with other branches and creates density. The scheme is as follows: in the place where the branches are connected, it is necessary to cut exactly along the outer ring.
3. Side branch cut. This technique allows you to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Incapacitated branches are cut off, and the side ones take on the function of the main branches.

Good post-care

If the cut diameter is more than 1 cm, the wound should be treated in without fail. To do this, you need to buy or cook your own garden pitch and treat the wound on the tree with it.

If for some reason garden pitch does not lie on the wound, you can use paint on drying oil.

Young fruit trees should only be pruned to form a regular crown. Otherwise, pruning can lead to a deterioration in fruiting properties.

People who take care of their trees and prune correctly and on time always receive gratitude in the form of a good harvest.

If a person first decided to do this procedure, it is very important to follow the recommendations of knowledgeable gardeners, since this process only at first glance seems simple.

But in fact, carelessness and ignorance can lead to the death of the plant.

Without timely and proper pruning of trees, it is quite difficult to form the correct crown and achieve good yields. Many beginner gardeners are intimidated by this procedure, but there is nothing complicated in it. In this article, we will tell you how and when to prune trees.

When to prune trees

Pruning is best done in late winter - early spring, when the leaves have not yet appeared on the trees.

Note: if you notice dried branches on a tree, you do not need to wait for the right time, they can be cut at any time.

If we are talking about fruit trees, you can distinguish dried branches during the flowering period, they simply will not have flowers.

How to prune large trees

It is not recommended to prune large trees on your own, as this is associated with a risk of injury. In this case, it is better to invite specialists. big trees do not require annual pruning.

How to prune small trees

Pruning small trees allows you to form a neat crown, as well as provide better air circulation, access to sunlight. A properly pruned tree will be healthier.

Note: make sure you are using a clean and sharp pruner. If the secateurs are not treated after each tree, fungus and other diseases can be transferred from one plant to another.

First of all, remove all dried and diseased branches. You should not make a cut close to the main branch, but you also do not need to leave a knot that is too large. Below is an example of a correct cut.

You also need to cut off all the crossing branches and those that prevent others from growing normally. If the purpose of pruning is to give the crown a certain shape, step back often and control the process so as not to trim too much.

How to prune fruit trees

When pruning fruit trees, there are some specifics. The main goal of such a procedure is not to give shape to the crown, but to ensure the highest yield. The fruit tree should be as compact as possible, preferably leaving only the healthiest and strongest branches.

You also need to remember to pick off some fruits if there are too many of them. Some experts even say that out of every 20 fruits, only one should be left. But here everything is individual, and you need to act according to the circumstances.

Trim trees at the right time, following correct technique, and your garden will look great and delight you with a generous harvest.

Original article in English.

Free-growing palmette with two tiers of branches is recommended for the formation of pear trees on vigorous rootstocks.

The crown consists of a central conductor and four skeletal branches, placed in the plane of the row in two tiers, two branches each, with the predominant development of branches in the first tier. In the second tier, a single placement of branches is also acceptable, that is, two branches at a distance of 20 cm from each other. During the period of the beginning of fruiting, in the space between the tiers and above the second tier, fruit branches up to 1.2 m long are located.

The height of the bole is 60 cm. For branches of the first tier, shoots with an angle of departure of 45-50 ° are selected.

If the selected branches have sharp departure angles, then by the end of the second growing season they put a spacer on them, and the tops are tied to the central conductor. In order to lay the next tier of crown branches during winter pruning, the central conductor is shortened. The distances between the tiers should be 90-110 cm. The first 4-6 years after planting, green operations are carried out on the branches of the first and second tiers.

At the same time, young, still non-lignified shoots (competitors), which have reached a length of 5-8 cm, are first broken out at the base of the conductors of skeletal branches, and then on the inside of each skeletal branch.

In varieties with weak branching, with a pronounced vertical growth of shoots, if it is necessary to form permanent fruit branches, strongly growing shoots are rejected to a horizontal position and 2-3 vigorous shoots are tied into a horizontally located bundle. There can be 3-4 such beams at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.

During winter pruning, vigorous branches with very sharp angles of discharge are cut out onto the ring, conductors of skeletal branches are removed. In varieties that form fruit buds on two-year-old wood and on the rings of the main branches, a slight shortening of the conductors of the skeletal branches is allowed until the end of the crown formation period, which prevents them from lowering.

During the period of full fruiting, the height of the fruit wall is 2.5-3.5 m, the width is 2-2.5 m. The support can be temporary in the form of wooden poles 1.5 m long, which are installed for the period of crown formation.
Fan palmette is used in trellis-dwarf pear plantations. The crown has five to eight main branches of the first order. The conductor does not dominate. Two or three lower branches can make up a tier, others are placed one by one at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. They are all aligned in a row.

When thinning the crown, competitors are removed, strong branches of the second order, branches with sharp angles of departure. On the 3-4th year after planting, the main branches in summer begin to bend under the mass of fruits, so they are tied to a wire, evenly distributed along the trellis support.

Crown formation systems for trees on low-growing rootstocks in dense stands

In modern horticulture, crown formation systems are most common, which provide the opportunity to increase planting density, regularly restore fruit-forming branches and maintain their optimal age ratio. Such crowns (skeletal part) are represented only by a skeletal conductor or are supplemented by skeletal branches-holders (35-40 cm), depending on the type of crown, on which temporary fruit branches (fruit links) are formed, similar to fruit links of grapes, but with a three-year life cycle. These branches are removed after fruiting.

Slender spindle (grossback): pear is grown on dwarf rootstocks with a planting density of 1250 to 3000 trees per 1 ha and a planting pattern of 3-4 × 1-2 m, width - 1-1.5 m. When forming crowns like a slender spindle , in addition to a common wire support, it is recommended to install long poles near each tree.

In the first year after planting, branched annual seedlings in the spring in the trunk area at a height of 40-50 cm from the soil surface cut out all the branches. Above the trunk (in the crown zone), strong branches are removed with an origin angle of less than 45 °. If there are not enough branches, they are left and tied up obliquely, giving an angle of 60-70 °. Then shorten the center conductor. The more branches on the planted plant, the higher the conductor is shortened. If there are 4-5 suitable branches, it is cut at a height of 100-110 cm from the ground surface, if three - at a height of 90 cm, if two - at a height of 80 cm. 65-70 cm, with a weak one - by 40-50 cm. When shortening unbranched one-year-olds, it is necessary to take into account the degree of shoot formation of varieties and the fact that competitors (from 1 to 3) are attached to the formation process.

How short pruning, the more branches under acute angle appears in the crown zone, which makes shaping difficult. With excessively long pruning, high boles can form and, as a result, tree slopes.
During the growing season, the growths formed on the trunk are removed. At the end of June - beginning of July in the zone
crowns tie up strong shoots, giving them an inclined position. If many lateral branches are formed, then they are given a position close to horizontal with a garter. This allows you to increase the volume of the crown and, accordingly, the area of ​​the leaves, the number of generative formations. When planting with unbranched seedlings, the conductor and the nearest competitor, upon reaching 10-15 cm, are cut off above the lower competitor, leaving it as a conductor. During the growing season, it is pinched, sometimes several times, for better development lower branches.

In the second year of life, if the previous year's pruning was carried out high and the overgrown branches grew much higher than the planned trunk length, the tree should be shortened again by two years of wood above the upper side branch, which leaves at an angle of about 60 °. The extension shoot is cut along with competitors to induce fouling where needed. With normal fouling, the continuation shoot is replaced by one of the lower competitors. With moderate growth in varieties that branch well, the continuation shoot is shortened. It is very important that at the base of the crown there are 3-4 slightly raised, fairly strong branches with an angle of departure of 60-70 °, from which semi-skeletal formations are formed 60 cm long towards the row and up to 1.2 m at an angle to the axis of the row.

Above these branches, semi-skeletal wood is formed in a spiral, and the higher up the trunk, the shorter the branches should be, so that the tree resembles a spindle in shape.

In the third year after planting, all competitors on the central conductor are first removed, that is, the central conductor is removed, and then in the central and lower parts of the crown, strong branches with an acute discharge angle are removed on the trunk, as well as damaged and diseased ones. In varieties with weak branching, all branches are bent, and the conductor is shortened to obtain additional branches.

In the third year, some varieties planted with unbranched annuals begin to bear fruit, and in connection with this, the active growth of shoots slows down a little.

In the fourth year after planting, the nature and sequence of pruning work is practically the same as in the previous year. Along with the separation of the central conductor, the removal of competitors and branches with an acute angle of discharge, parts of the three-year-old branches that have been fertile are removed. In branches older than three years, the fruiting zone moves to the upper part, and the lower part is exposed. In this regard, it is necessary to timely replace fruiting branches already at the age of three and replace them with new one-year growths. Three-year-old branches are now removed to a ring (previously a small knot 1-2 cm long was left), a three-year cycle of growth and fruiting of fruit branches is the most appropriate method for maintaining annual growth in the crown of a tree.
Work on caring for the central conductor is continued until it reaches a height of 2.2-2.4 m, after which it is shortened at a height of 2 m by transferring to a lateral one-year growth. On the 4-5th year after planting, when the growth of the trees weakens, shortening of 2-3 constantly growing fruit branches remaining at the base of the crown is carried out. Semi-skeletal branches should have the largest angle of departure, and the diameter of the base should be equal to half the diameter of the trunk at the points of their departure.

Thinning intensifies in the fifth year of the growing season. Cut out, first of all, strong and too weak branches. After the first years of fruiting, the lower branches sag and the weakest ones are removed, the semi-skeletal ones are cut to the side branches, and if necessary to strengthen them, to the upper branch. Shorten, bringing closer to the trunk, branches in the middle part of the crown. Strong branches are cut out in the upper part of the tree, the length of the remaining ones should not exceed 40-45 cm. If necessary, green operations are carried out during the growing season. During the period of full fruiting, one tree should have 40-60 one-, three-year-old branches.

Further work on Crown care consists in the constant cutting of three-year-old fruiting branches and the cultivation of new rejuvenating growths in their place. If necessary, a light rejuvenating pruning of semi-skeletal branches growing at the base of the crown, which carry the bulk of the crop, is carried out.
Free spindle (freely growing spindle): the crown is formed from a central conductor and 3-4 permanent branches of a semi-skeletal type 40-50 cm long, the progressive growth of which is limited by transfer to lateral branches. Such a crown is created without artificial deviation of the branches.

See also: How to do pruning fruit trees in the garden

Above the tier of permanent branches, fruit branches are formed at the age of up to 3 years. When forming a freely growing spindle, the main requirements are reduced to right choice permanent branches and regulation of the age ratio of fruit-bearing wood. During the fruiting period, thinning of crowns is carried out in places of their thickening, top shoots with a vertical orientation and fruit branches older than three years old, which have already bore fruit, are removed.

In varieties with weak branching, they are cut off by transferring to young wood or a stump (4-6 cm) is left, from the dormant buds of which new shoots are formed. The height of the trees during the period of full fruiting is limited at the level of 2.5-3 m, the diameter of the crown is maintained at such a level that there is a free passage for garden equipment between the rows.

The technology provides a fruit yield of 35-40 t/ha. Planting scheme 4 × 1-2 m. The time of entry into fruiting is the 2-3rd year, the period of productive use is 12-15 years.
Pillar (pillar, column-like form) is a column-like low-volume formation. The crown, formed according to the pillar type, consists of a well-branched central conductor, directly on which the overgrown wood is located, constantly updated so that the age of the fruitful branches does not exceed 3 years. This system is designed for low growing trees. Planting pattern 2×1 m. Constantly renewed fruit wood ensures high commercial quality of fruits.

After planting, annual seedlings are crowned at a height of 80-100 cm, competitors and the strongest branches are cut out, as well as those that form in the bole zone, to a height of 30-40 cm. Annually, 4-5 new annual branches of medium length are left, for which the central conductor in varieties with weak branching is cut annually by 1/3.

Biennial branches are shortened, leaving 2-3 buds. Of the two shoots formed the following year, the weak one is left, and the strong one is again shortened by 2-3 buds. Ringlets with fruit buds are laid on unshortened branches, and two shoots grow again from the left buds on the next cut branch. In the next growing season, a branch with ringlets forms fruits, one of last year's branches is left for fruiting next year. The second branch is cut short again. The next year, the branch that bears fruit is cut out, the branch with the last year's annulus begins to bear fruit, and two shoots are again formed from the two buds of the cut branch. Gradually, the branches of the upper part of the crown are attracted to the formation of such links. So that the bottom of the crown is not exposed, the fruiting branches are cut into a stump 2-2.5 cm long. As a rule, 2-3 shoots grow on it, of which only one is left during pruning, as a branch that replaces the removed one, and a new one is formed by appropriate pruning link. In total, 20-30 links are formed on a tree 2-2.5 m high.
There are no branches older than 3 years in the pillar crown, which makes it possible to maintain a high marketability of fruits.
At the Crimean experimental station developed new technology self-supporting cultivation of apple and pear trees on slo-boros rootstocks - a standard pyramid (author L. B. Tankevich). Planting features allow you to create a stable structure, which consists of three trees, which stimulates the precocity of varieties, provides them high yield. Any support with this method of landing is excluded. The role of supporting devices is performed by the trees themselves, which, after mutual interweaving during planting, create a fairly stable structure.

Physiologically, the advantage of this method lies in the fact that the features of plant placement create the most favorable conditions for active laying of fruit formations due to the redistribution of plastic substances already in the first year after planting.

The biological construction “standard pyramid” does not provide for the use of fruit branches older than three years during the fruiting period. The high efficiency of growing such a garden is achieved by using branched seedlings of varieties that are able to lay fruit buds on the growth of the previous year. When planting using the “standard pyramid” method, from 2.8 to 4.9 thousand trees are placed per 1 ha. When laying such plantations with seedlings of the knip-baum type or with fruit formations and supporting agricultural technology on high level their fruiting is possible already in the first growing season.

Basic techniques for pruning any type

There are two main methods of pruning - shortening the branches and thinning the crown. They are combined with auxiliary shaping techniques: branch tilting, pinching, breaking out shoots, banding, bending branches and shoots, tying, and so on.
When shortening (cutting), a part of a branch or one-year growth is removed.

Shortening weakens the tendencies of apical growth and stimulates branching, reduces the growth of trees in height and width, making them more compact, reduces the frequency of fruiting, and improves the quality of fruits. However, a strong shortening can cause a later entry of trees into commercial fruiting. Therefore, in a young garden, such pruning should be carried out only on individual branches that need to be weakened, and follow the principle - a minimum of pruning before the tree enters fruiting.
Annual growths are shortened depending on the age of the trunk, rootstock, varietal characteristics and natural conditions garden. Shortening by 1/4-1/5 of the length of annual growth is considered weak, by 1/3 - moderate, by 1/2-2/3 of the length - strong.
Heavy pruning is most effective during full fruiting and on aging pear trees that have stopped growing. Shortening branches during this period by 3-5-year-old wood stimulates the rejuvenation of plants and slows down the aging process in them.

Thinning involves the removal of whole growth shoots or branches completely into a ring. This technique improves the illumination in the middle of the crown and, as a result, increases the productivity of the leaf apparatus, the yield of the plant and the quality of its fruits. In addition, thinning improves the conditions for protecting plants from diseases and pests.

Thinning does not stimulate the creation of vegetative shoots on the pods, does not cause noticeable growth of the remaining branches, but is favorable for the formation of stronger, more productive pods, which occurs as a result of the redistribution of nutrients.

thinning can be strong, medium and weak. With a strong one, large skeletal branches or a large number of overgrowing, dried, broken and intertwined branches, competing shoots-wen, branches damaged by pests and diseases, as well as those that grow low and sag, interfering with mechanized soil cultivation, are removed.

With medium thinning, fattening shoots and semi-skeletal branches are cut out, shading the inner part of the crown, with weak thinning, annual shoots and dry branches.

Many > varieties of pear (you can read more about pear varieties for summer cottages in the article “Choosing varieties of pears for planting and propagation in the country”) during the productive period form an excess number of branching annelids and fruitlets (Zolotovorotskaya, Striyskaya, Yablunivska, etc.), which it is necessary to thin out, removing them on the ring so that the remaining ones are located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. First of all, the weak ones, damaged by diseases and pests, located on the lower part of the branch, are removed. This technique facilitates the setting of fruits, they become larger, their taste qualities improve.

When pruning by transfer to perennial wood, a branch or twig is shortened above one of the lateral, external or internal branches in order to give the remaining branch a certain direction of growth. It should be borne in mind that a pear, unlike an apple tree, in young age does not tolerate strong shortening of annual growths and young branches.

Branches that are too pruned tend to give a strong burst of growth at the expense of crown formation, which leads to a delay in commercial fruiting.

Below are other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with your own hands"

The preferred time for pruning is late winter and early spring, before new growth begins. During this period, pruning is carried out in a large number garden plants which include fruit trees.

Pruning trees is necessary to maintain the health of plants, to give them strength and beauty. In fruit-bearing crops, this procedure helps to increase the yield.

The basic rules for pruning any type of tree are: use clean and sharp tools, cut under the diseased areas of the tree, timely processing of the cut.

There are 3 types of pruning:

1. thinning. This method of pruning is characterized by the removal of an entire branch. Its pruning is done where it branches off from a larger branch or trunk. This method is rarely used, since thinning does not stimulate growth and only reduces the weight of the plant. This method is suitable for decorative purposes so that the plant does not look too massive.
2. Non-selective pruning. Its essence lies in cutting the branch anywhere, which will stimulate the dormant buds to grow top shoots. This method helps to increase the density of the plant.
3. Selective pruning. According to her, pruning should be done to the nearest bud or side branch. Remaining branch diameter half shoot diameter. This method reduces the height of the tree.

How to prune fruit trees

My aunt enjoyed a bountiful harvest of apples from her apple tree for many years. suburban area. But time passed, and the harvest became less and less, until the tree ceased to bear fruit at all. Aunt decided that they were guilty climatic conditions, but the problem was different: it didn't prune the branches of the tree.

By pruning the branches of fruitful trees, you relieve the plant of the extra weight of the fruits and allow sunlight to penetrate into the center of the crown. The sun's rays and air penetrating into the center of the crown provide better circulation and do not allow the plant to get sick.

Trimming trees is distinguished by three types of crown:

1. tiered with a central conductor
2. change-leader
3. bowl-shaped

If the tree has not been pruned before fruit formation, then pruning will have to be done more strongly, with cutting and reducing the size of the branches. This is necessary to increase the yield of the tree and create a crown structure that will not bend or break under the weight of the crop.

Trees need to be pruned once a year. Thus, the plant will not suffer from severe pruning after a longer period of time. It is possible to cut as many branches as the tree has grown over the past year.

Important! However, it must be remembered that when cutting off old branches formed after Last year, the number of cut branches should not exceed 1/3 of all branches of the plant.

First of all, it is the old branches that should be deleted. If you are dealing with dwarf trees, then do not get carried away with pruning branches as well as ordinary trees. Trees over small size, than usual, differ in slower growth.

Some varieties of apple, pear and plum trees are distinguished by the formation of fruits on medium-sized branches, so if the crown has become too dense, you can safely cut off old and unproductive branches.

Keep an eye on the growth of horizontal branches, as branches that grow vertically, that is, upwards, give a large increase, but their yield decreases.

If branches, also directed vertically, grow downwards, then their productivity will be low due to lack of sunlight. Therefore, shoots that grow up and down should be cut off, leaving horizontal ones.

For a more complete understanding of the tree pruning process, watch the tutorial video for beginners with step-by-step instructions:

How to prune apple and pear trees

It is necessary to cut the tree according to the tiered type of crown. With age, the main shoot may droop due to the heavy fruit, preventing sunlight from reaching the lower branches. In this case, it is worth cutting the top of the main shoot.

With such a schedule sunlight will penetrate into the center of the crown, and new branches will grow upward, replacing the cut central trunk. Trim side branches as needed to easily reach any part of the plant.

How to prune a plum

Since the plum is predominantly a bushy tree, it is not possible to form a plant with a central stem from it. Another form of trimming is suitable here - cup-shaped.

If you have hybrids from Japan and America at your disposal, then they need to cut off large quantity branches than plum varieties from Europe. The top must be open to free access sun rays to the lower branches. If the branches bend too much towards the ground, then they should be shortened.

How to prune peach and apricot

Such fruitful trees are characterized by a large growth of branches, so it is worth pruning from in large numbers to improve yield quality criteria. To make it convenient to work with these trees in the future, cut off the top of the crown. Do not forget about the branches that grow close to the ground.

After pruning is complete, do not get carried away with excessive feeding, as the tree will quickly grow new branches because of it. Due to the rapid growth of branches in summer, the tree may suffer in winter time of the year.

How to prune cherries

In a newly planted cherry, a crown is created with the main conductor, which, in older plants, is removed, and a modified-leader crown replaces the tiered crown type.

Pruning is done like pruning, but not in such a large amount, otherwise in winter the tree will be damaged by the cold, which will certainly affect the life expectancy of the cherry.

In this article we will talk about how to properly form trees and shrubs. How to avoid uprooting fruit trees through rejuvenation: pruning, thinning and shortening the crown.

Looking at beautiful strong trees, without a single leaf on the ground, many believe that the owner was lucky with the choice of variety or he uses some special preparations that allow him to grow a healthy crop. Actually, important point in garden care is proper tillage and annual pruning. Her goals:

• provide access to light and air to all branches, which will allow the tree to resist diseases and insects;
• timely remove old branches that will break under the weight of the fruit, and weak barren stems;
• to achieve an annual harvest, given that pome species (pears and apple trees), if pruned incorrectly, bear fruit in a year.

Timely pruning is the key to a rich harvest

According to the seasons, there are two types of pruning: summer and winter.

Winter pruning is done with the onset of cold weather (but not frost), when sap flow stops, and in early spring, while the trees are still dormant. All the main trimming procedures fall on this period.

Summer pruning is done during the growing season of plants. This is the removal of excess green shoots and tops, which is carried out without harm to the plant.

In the photo above, we see new branches that began to stretch in the spring. They can be removed in the summer, as they will not bear fruit. This pruning technique can solve specific task- free the tree from unnecessary work, without harm to the plant.

Basic pruning techniques

The formation of the crown begins with the removal of all branches that have stretched inwards, up and down over the summer.

In the photo we see that the branches are intertwined with each other, the skeletal trunk consists of two parts. Such a tree should be pruned in winter.

The more “ruthlessly” we cut off the extra branches, the more high-quality fruits we will get when harvesting. This is an important part of pruning a tree.

The main purpose of pruning (shortening) full-fledged, at first glance, branches that are considered superfluous is visible in the next photo.

Branches with well-developed buds had to be shortened by half. In this case, the fruits pull the stems down and fall off, the supply nutrients the whole tree.

How to cut branches

Experienced gardeners distinguish three main methods of cutting.

Large branches are cut with a garden saw, exactly along the annular influx.

Small branches are cut with secateurs, determining the correct place for the cut - on the ring.

The cutting line of branches that do not have an annular influx is determined visually by dividing the trunk into two lines - parallel to the trunk and perpendicular to the axis of the branch to be cut. The cut should be done along the bisector of the resulting angle.

The breaking of shoots and the removal of buds are also referred to as tenderloin. The procedure is carried out in the spring, when the kidneys begin to fill up. Then you can see which of them will uselessly thicken the crown. They also include tops - kidneys growing from the trunk. They can be removed by hand along with pieces of wood. Minor wounds formed in this case “heal” without additional treatment.

Root growth slows down the activity of tree development. It must be removed several times a season. Above-ground pruning is ineffective, because the shortened sprouts, supplied with moisture and warmed by the sun, begin to stretch again. Its growth will stop for a long time if you remove upper layer soil above the root system, and cut the plant from the root.

How to shorten trees

Tree pruning is the same pruning, divided into several steps:

• pruning on the kidney
• pruning on a stump
• cropping "for translation"
• pinching

Pruning on the kidney- this is the shortening of the stem in a place where there is a healthy bud, in order to change the direction of growth of the branch. It should be located on the part of the stem where you want to direct the future branch. The cut is made with a sharp pruner. It is important to choose the right cutting direction.

Pinching or removal of excess shoots is applied in the summer. After removing the green top, the growth of the branch stops, and the remaining part of the branch turns into a skeletal branch, which will subsequently bear fruit.

Shortening the branch to "translation" means pruning a part of the sprouts on a branched branch, leaving only the one that will “translate” the new trunk in the right direction.

Pruning on a stump used for rejuvenation of shrubs or "dwarf" trees. For fruit trees, such shortening "to the stump" is unacceptable, except in cases where it is required to re-graft on healthy tree, which does not bring high-quality fruits, cuttings of another or several varieties.

The vaccination site should be lubricated with garden pitch, pulled off with electrical tape and wrapped woolen cloth. The most suitable time for grafting another variety is spring, summer, early autumn, while sap flow continues.

Pruning of young trees from 1 to 3 years

In young seedlings, it is necessary to cut off new shoots until the trunk stretches to a meter in length.

The process of pruning young trees is to allow the trunk to grow stronger and form. The first 2 years form only 2-3 skeletal branches growing at an angle of 40 degrees relative to the leading trunk. The procedure is repeated in autumn and spring. Shoots should not exceed 50-70 cm. In the third year, the tree begins to form in the same way as adults.

Pruning and shaping shrubs for rejuvenation

Cutting technology fruit bushes individual for each plant.

Evergreens are shortened as the shoots grow, giving the bushes a certain shape.

Fruit and berry bushes - according to a specially designed scheme. Many species need to be cut out in the fall “on a stump” and wrapped up for the winter, and some are cut to certain sizes. The main procedure for rejuvenating shrubs is spring pruning. It is aimed at freeing the bush from excess shoots intersecting with the main branches, thinning the stems for light access and providing oxygen access.

Tillage after pruning

A properly treated plant requires additional feeding. In autumn, the soil in the garden is mulched with compost or manure. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are required. In summer - potassium-phosphorus supplements.

A well-groomed garden for a long time increases the duration of fruiting, and proper pruning contributes to the development of strong and juicy fruits.