How sheep wool is used to make clothes. "Almost primitive" fabric - wool Wool fibers and fabrics

Reading time: 7 minutes

Natural wool is animal hair collected for processing and exploitation. Mostly woolen fabric is made from sheep. Also used vegetation of camels, goats, llamas, rabbits. Wool consists mainly of keratin protein, which contains a lot of sulfur.

To obtain fluff, animals are combed out, to obtain wool, they are sheared. After collection, it is cleaned and sorted.

Yarn is made from it, which is converted into natural fabrics or with the addition of synthetics. It is used for the manufacture of felted and felt products.

Varieties of wool

According to the method of extraction, it is divided into three types:

• "Living" is sheared from live animals;
• "Dead" is collected from animal skins in slaughterhouses, its quality is worse;
• recovered is obtained by splitting pieces of yarn, woolen scraps.

Fiber types:

• fluff is the softest, thinnest, most delicate and valuable part;
• transitional hair - less crimped, like fluff, harder and thicker;
• dead hair is coarse, fragile.

Fiber origin

Types depending on the animal:

• Camel wool is obtained from the undercoat of a bactrian non-working camel. It is combed out once a year. From one individual, you can collect from 4 to 9 kg. This material is lighter than sheep, better than others it maintains body temperature. Quickly absorbs and evaporates moisture. It does not lend itself to coloring, therefore it is produced in only 14 shades. Such clothing helps in the treatment of many diseases.
• Llama wool can only be found in Peru. Previously, this animal was a beast of burden, and now the quality of vegetation is different for everyone. Only llamas with soft hair are selected for clipping and combing. Down is used to make elite fabrics, hair is also used.
• Alpaca is a rare Peruvian llama. They cut it once a year and get no more than 3.5 kg of wool. Therefore, it is very expensive. Strong and warm, stain resistant. There are 22 natural shades of this material.

Types of woolen fabrics

Various woolen fabrics differ from each other in density, processing method, composition.

In general, they can be divided into three subgroups:

1. Rough cloth fabrics are very coarse, heavy, thick and dense. Mostly they make country-style coats and jackets.
2. Fine cloths are intended for the manufacture of light coats, jackets, suits. They are not very dense.
3. Worsted are smooth and thin. The area of ​​application is for the most part suits.

Depending on the purpose, various woolen fabrics are used.

For business suits

Popular fabrics for the production of women's and men's suits:

1. Single-layer cloth of plain weave with a matte surface. Made from thin, semi-thin or semi-coarse fibers.
2. - the softest variety. From fine hardware yarn, a loose structure and embossed surface is obtained.
3. used for the production of jackets with twill weave. It can be plain dyed. No diagonal rib.

For coat

What are women's and men's coats made of:

1. made from merino wool using a twill weave. Dense, tough, wear-resistant, water-repellent monochromatic material. Does not wrinkle. Suitable for light coats.
2. make a complex weave with the addition of synthetic threads. Warm linen with a fluffy front side. The loose structure contributes to the appearance of dirt. Puffs are formed and threads come out in the area of ​​frequent friction.
3. with obvious pile, dense and heavy. Perfectly retains heat and does not allow air to pass through. Man-made fibers are often added for strength and to reduce static.
4. Cashmere is an expensive fabric, sometimes natural fibers are mixed with artificial ones. It is obtained from a twill weave of the finest fibers.

Baby clothes

To prevent coarse materials from injuring the delicate skin of the child, two soft types are usually used:

1. Thin woolen has a fleece on both sides. Poorly holding its shape, but warm and comfortable, breathable.
2. - wool jersey, soft and comfortable. Elastic and almost wrinkle-free.

Other options

What other fabrics are there:

How to determine the naturalness of wool

Three easy ways:

1. Take a piece of thread and set it on fire. Natural fiber flares quickly and burns slowly. When it goes out, the smell of burnt hair will be felt, and the burnt thread is easily rubbed into dust. Material containing artificial fibers will leave behind a polymer droplet.
2. You need to wrinkle a piece of fabric and listen to your feelings. The synthetic fiber glides and makes a grinding sound that can even give off unpleasant goosebumps. In the process, static electricity appears, a crackling sound is heard. Small flashes are visible in the dark. If you knead a natural canvas, then the skin will only tingle a little.
3. Take a close look at the yarn. Real wool is branched and has an uneven texture. Artificial textiles or with impurities looks smoother, the finest hairs do not climb out. Therefore, synthetic material is not as prickly and softer than natural.

The composition must be indicated on the label. If a thing is made of expensive material, for example, angora or cashmere, it is worth asking for a certificate for the product before buying.

Correct care

• Wash from the wrong side so that the shape of the product is preserved and no pills form. The optimum water temperature is 30 degrees, otherwise the thing shrinks.

• For washing, use special liquid products or regular shampoo. The nursery is suitable for very delicate things.
• Any stains are removed before washing. Most can be removed with rubbing alcohol. dish detergent, ordinary dirt - with a clothes brush.
• Do not soak woolen items. The washing process should not take more than 45 minutes from the moment of immersion in water.
• Woolen textiles can be washed a couple of times a year. Stains are removed separately, odors from such clothes evaporate quickly. It is enough to hang it on the balcony.

• Drying process: roll the clothes into a tube, put on a light towel and unfold. It is necessary to immediately give the correct shape.
• The shrunken thing must be slightly moistened with water and ironed from the inside out through cheesecloth. In the process, the fabric is stretched to give the desired shape. Read the recommendations:.
• The spools cannot be torn off manually; for this, special machines or combs are used.
• Woolen products are stored folded on the shelf. They will stretch on the shoulders.

Handwash

Correct actions:

1. Pour cool water into a basin up to 30 degrees.
2. Dissolve the detergent in it. It should be hand wash, preferably liquid. The packaging contains images of woolen balls.
3. Dip the item into a basin and wait a few seconds until it is saturated with water. Gently move it in different directions several times. Do not rub - this will form pellets.
4. When the water changes color, you can pour it out. It can be repeated if necessary, but more often than not one time is enough.
5. Fill the sink with water at the same temperature as the wash. Rinse the product with gentle movements. The detergent must be removed completely, so it is usually rinsed twice.
6. Drain the water and pick up the clumped clothes. Gently squeeze out some of the water and wrap in a thick towel. It will absorb most of the water.

Various things are produced from wool: outer and casual clothes, shoes, hats and accessories, upholstery for furniture. Woolen clothes can be both business office and cozy home clothes. With good care, the product will last a long time and will not lose its shape and properties.

Mankind had to master the technology of producing yarn and cloth from animal wool as needed. At the same time, the relevance of woolen things does not diminish, because it is the warmest and at the same time natural material. The fields of application of woolen yarn and fabrics are diverse, while it is important to know the marking and characteristics of a particular material in order to correctly adjust its use and further care for the finished product. In the article, consider the main types of wool.

What are the types of wool and their characteristics

Wool refers to the fibers of the cover, sheared or combed from specially raised animals. As such, this is a raw material that must go through several stages of processing before it can be used for sewing clothes, creating home textiles. Wool fibers have unique characteristics that differ significantly from each other. This factor is influenced by the species of animals from which the source material was obtained, the method of "extraction", and the further processing process. Find out about the characteristics of twill fabric.

Fiber types

Sheared wool of sheep and other animals is most often used in production. This is rationally and economically justified, because such a "harvest" can be harvested every year. At the same time, combing wool is becoming a common practice, especially in rare and exotic animals. These fibers are extremely soft and thin, which only adds to the value of the material.

What types of wool fibers exist:

1. Transitional or axial hair. Differs in a thick and rigid structure, as a rule, even, long.
2. Pooh, which creates an additional undercoat, thin and wavy hair that retains heat and is responsible for air exchange.
3. Dead hair. Received in slaughterhouses as a by-product of the slaughter of animals. According to its characteristics, it is significantly inferior to the "live" one (fragile, tough), therefore its value is several times lower.

The most budgetary and popular raw material option is sheep wool. Depending on the region of residence, diet, living conditions and type of these animals, wool has a different structure and value. Read how the texture and density of the footer fabric looks like.

Origin (depending on the animal) - types of wool fibers for knitting

The largest volume of wool is obtained from raising sheep. The largest supplier of sheep wool is Australia, where more than a third of the world's industrial volume of this raw material is produced. During the development of animal husbandry, many species have appeared, specially grown to obtain a high-quality fine fleece. The cutting process is a real art, because further labeling and application (accordingly cost) depend on many factors.

In particular, the best quality fleece is cut only on the sides and withers of the animal. One of the most valuable species is considered to be the wool of the first shearing of lambs.

Also wool is obtained from goats, camels, llamas and other animals. Fibers are classified into "live" and "dead", depending on how they are obtained. The quality of finished fabrics and yarns directly depends on the animal species, wool structure and further processing.

The creation of yarn can be carried out by recovery from production leftovers. According to its characteristics, it is much inferior to natural, therefore, it is most often mixed with synthetic fibers. Modern trends are the processing of old things to make new fabrics with a certain content of wool in the composition.

After clipping, the fibers are sorted, cleaned and leveled. The processing process also includes dyeing (if necessary), the addition of synthetic materials, and the formation of yarns. It is from it that all fabrics are subsequently obtained, but wool also found its use in the creation of industrial or household products in the form of skeins of threads. Woolen knitted products are always attractive and modern, indispensable in bad weather and in winter. It is believed that the unique chemical compounds in the structure of woolen hairs have healing powers and can save a person from many diseases. What kind of insulation is better for winter clothes will tell you.

Types of wool fibers for knitting:

1. Cashmere. The raw material for this yarn is wool from goats, which are found in the highlands. Unlike sheep wool, cashmere goat wool is combed out, getting the most delicate and lightest fluff. Fibers perfectly retain heat, are soft, lightweight. The products are practically weightless, but with careful care they will last for more than one year. Cashmere yarn is used to make women's or men's clothing, coats, hats, scarves.
2. Angora. The threads are made from angora rabbit fluff. Animals are also combed out, and only representatives of this rather rare breed. The delicate structure does not allow the use of yarn without additional "strengthening", therefore, most often on sale there are blended or semi-woolen fibers (with the addition of synthetic materials). One hundred percent angora only needs special care, dry cleaning, minimal mechanical friction.
3. Mohair. The yarn is obtained by processing wool of angora goat. It is extremely thin and soft, has an uneven thickness, and is easy to paint. The finished mohair product is very warm and requires careful care in further wear. The relatively short service life is a critical drawback of this material.
4. Merino wool. Sheep of the breed of merino are specially bred by selection, have the longest, thickest wool with thin fluff. The haircut is carried out in strict compliance with the technology. An expensive quality fleece is obtained by removing the hair from the nape of the animal. One of the biggest advantages of products, such as, is considered to be a soft structure, so the surface does not prick or irritate the skin.
5. Tibetan yak is considered one of the rarest "suppliers" of woolen raw materials. These animals were destroyed for a long time, the situation improved a little, but not a final victory. The fibers of the Tibetan yak wool are distinguished by their amazing strength, while being long and soft, they well regulate the function of heat transfer.
6. Camel's wool perfectly keeps heat and at the same time provides good air exchange. Children or delicate things are not made from these materials due to the rather prickly structure of the threads. At the same time, a camel fleece is much lighter than a sheep's fleece, it has a unique ability to exchange heat, additional healing properties. The wool of specially grown camel breeds is used, haircut is also carried out once a year. Used for sewing.
7. Llama wool considered one of the rarest and most expensive. The fibers are hypoallergenic, durable, and have a natural color scheme of pleasant tones. In the process of wearing, the canvas does not roll, does not fade, does not fall off. In addition to the high cost, such products also have another important drawback. In connection with the threat of the complete extermination of these animals, there is always a risk of acquiring products for the production of which individual individuals were killed. The fight against poachers does not stop, most of the companies in this business have refused to work with unverified suppliers.
8. Alpaca. Animals are close "relatives" of the llama, so wool fibers have similar characteristics. The main difference is the high price due to the low prevalence of this subspecies.

The alpaca is sheared once a year, the fibers are carefully sorted, calibrated, and delivered to weaving factories.

Woolen yarn is distinguished by good hygroscopicity, retains heat well and does not interfere with air circulation. Things made from such yarn retain their original appearance for a long time, but are demanding to care for. It is necessary to wash products at a temperature not higher than 30 degrees, using the minimum spin speed. It is best to dry woolen items in a horizontal position, carefully straightening them on a flat surface.

The most expensive and rare variety is vicuna wool. The price per kilogram can reach $ 850 (for comparison, cashmere is "only" $ 80). These animals were on the verge of extinction mainly due to the valuable qualities of their wool. Now their population, growing conditions, frequency of hair cutting are regulated at the legislative level. Without the proper accompanying documents confirming the legality of obtaining the fleece, no conscientious manufacturer will purchase a batch. It is noteworthy that the collected raw materials are sorted by hand, after which about 25% of the original volume of fibers are used for production.

Types of woolen fabrics

The fabric obtained from woolen fibers has a different structure and density. Depending on this, its purpose is determined. Outerwear, dresses, sweaters, blouses, jackets are made from woolen fabric. Thanks to good heat retention and air access, it is from woolen and semi-woolen materials that sportswear and thermal underwear are sewn.

Varieties of woolen fabrics:

1. Rough cloth fabrics have a spiky surface obtained by creating a rigid weave of threads. Most often, such fabrics are used when sewing outerwear and uniforms.
2. Finely woven fabrics can be recognized by their porous and loose structure. The main plus is good heat retention and light weight, which provides numerous options for use.
3. Worsted or combed canvases. They have a pronounced "pattern" of intertwining threads.

Used worsted fabrics for the manufacture of dresses, suits, blouses, for outerwear use is impractical.

It is extremely difficult to find a completely woolen fabric now. Natural fibers wear out quickly, products lose their original shape. This can be avoided by adding synthetic fibers to the yarn, which increases its strength and performance.

Sheep wool has numerous classification according to certain parameters. The age of the animal is taken into account (the first haircut gives the finest fibers), the method of growing, cleanliness (percentage of dirt or impurities), many additional factors. To the uninitiated, these data will explain little, especially in the final "product" even the most expensive raw materials have undergone a certain processing.

For business suits

The assortment of woolen items is not limited to outerwear and sweaters. This material is used to make excellent business suits that, with proper care, will look perfect for years to come.

Classification of woolen suit fabrics:

1. Single layer cloth. The canvas consists of thin, semi-thin or semi-coarse fibers, has a matte surface.
2. . The relief surface is loose, soft, but retains its shape well. Products can be distinguished by their characteristic texture, uneven color. The classification includes division into types of weaving, many of which are named extremely original ("chicken foot", "herringbone", "dog fang" and others).
3. Cheviot. Obtained from wool of Scottish sheep species. The dense and rigid structure somewhat limits the scope. The main difference between the canvas is the absence of a diagonal scar on the surface. A striking example is the famous British suits and jackets.

Such fabrics are popular when sewing women's or men's suits. A separate, actively developing industry of using such cloths is the production of heat-saving sports equipment - the so-called thermal underwear. The main advantages of these things are light weight, good heat retention and moisture removal. This provides comfort during training, active pastime. When worn, such products retain all the advantages of natural fabrics, but require careful care, special chemicals for washing. If these conditions are not met, the product will quickly become unusable, therefore this moment is extremely important.

Cheviot fabric is used for sewing jackets with twill weave.

For coat

The coat fabric has a dense structure, holds its shape well, and is extremely wear-resistant. The main disadvantage is the rapid absorption of moisture, after which the heat saving rates decrease, and the air exchange decreases. This can be avoided with proper wear, ensuring proper care of the state of things. In particular, it is undesirable to expose the product to strong mechanical stress, to dry it only in a flattened form, away from direct sources of heat. Woolen coats usually serve well over the years, so it's worth taking a closer look at this option.

Resistant and durable coat fabric:

1. Gabardine. The production uses the twill weave method. The blade is extremely durable, hardly wear-resistant, practically does not wrinkle. Scope - light types of outerwear.
2. Boucle. The filaments usually contain synthetic fibers. A complex weave forms a pile on the front part, which, with prolonged wear, makes it difficult to remove dirt. The structure of the material is rather loose; puffs may form on the surface.
3. Drap. Thick, heavy fabric with a fleecy surface. Virtually impermeable to air, retains heat well. A relatively inexpensive and extremely durable canvas.

There is also a cashmere coat fabric on sale, which is obtained by twill weaving of thin lightweight cashmere yarns. This material is extremely wear-resistant, especially with the addition of some synthetics, but it has a high price. At the same time, it is not recommended to wash or remove dirt on the surface yourself. To do this, you will have to contact a dry cleaner, be sure to warn the performers about the composition of the fabric and the possible consequences of improper handling. Find out what bamboo fiber looks like and what it is used for.

To enhance performance, synthetic fibers are often added to the drape composition.

Baby clothes

When creating children's clothes, wool fibers are not used so often due to possible allergies. Also, many woolen fabrics have a rough structure, which is unacceptable for contact with the sensitive skin of a child.

The following fabrics are an exception:

1. Flannel. Brushed, soft, thin fabric on both sides. Poorly retains its shape, but at the same time it keeps heat well, is comfortable to the touch, and provides good air exchange. In the production of flannel, wool or cotton fibers are used.
2. . The soft practical knitted fabric has good elasticity, does not wrinkle, does not lose its appearance after numerous washes.

The wool of rare animals such as llama or vicuña is also excellent for the production of children's clothing. They are very light, thin, and retain heat without an air barrier. The main obstacle is the high price, so it is very difficult to find options. Find out about the composition and density of the linon material.

Other types of woolen fabrics

Depending on the type of woolen fibers, their physical characteristics (thickness, density), processing of raw materials allows you to obtain fabrics that are completely different in structure. The manufacturing process can include knitting the fabric (usually with synthetics for better elasticity), pressing, and shaping the pile on one or both sides of the surface.

Which fabrics are also made from wool fibers:

1. Felt. Coarse felted wool, often used in the manufacture of shoes, and also as a technical material. The main difference is that the raw materials are dumped and pressed, so the structure is homogeneous, without interlacing or individual threads.
2. Felt. Felted rabbit wool is used as a raw material, it belongs to a type of felt material. The areas of application are extremely varied: from hats to stuffed toys.
3. Bike. Warm, brushed fabric on one side. Often used in the manufacture of blankets and blankets, demi-season outerwear.
4. Plaid. Suiting fabric with a characteristic checkered pattern. Fields of application: women's or men's suits, shirts, dresses.
5. Velours... The velvety surface of the fabric makes it very comfortable and comfortable. Velor is used in light industry for sewing men's and women's clothing, blankets, car cladding.
6. Rogozhka. It stands out for its characteristic coarse weave of thick threads.

Matting material is suitable for sewing clothes, lining of car interiors, as furniture fabric.

It is very difficult to list all the varieties and applications of wool fibers. The so-called blended fabrics may contain a certain proportion of wool, but are classified in a completely different way. The addition of synthetics is not always bad, because the fabric acquires additional characteristics, its wear resistance, elasticity, and strength increase.

Woolen fabric markings often include a quantitative measure of the density of the material. According to the international classification, up to 80 s, the most durable and coarse canvases are classified. Up to 100 s, you can also look for a budget option for sewing outerwear or casual suits. From 110s to 130s, the fabric is good workmanship, pleasant to the touch, practically wrinkle-free. The parameter in 150 - 180 s refers to delicate fabrics, thin, easily wrinkled. Blades marked 200 s and above are elite and expensive, but extremely impractical. Costumes made from such a canvas look beautiful, but they wrinkle, shine even after a short wear.

Woolen clothes, blankets and other things necessary in everyday life are natural and good for our health. The process of obtaining these benefits of civilization is extremely long; the final characteristics of products, service life and quality are influenced by many factors, including the type of fibers, the method of obtaining and further processing of raw materials. Sheep wool is most often used in production, but there are completely unique species, for example, llamas, alpacas or vicuñas, the cost of which is extremely high. The main varieties of woolen fibers and fabrics, as well as the features of the production and use of these materials, are considered in the given review.

Video

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conclusions

1. The main advantages of woolen fibers are: hygroscopicity, heat retention, air circulation. This provides a wide range of applications, in particular when sewing clothes or home textiles.
2. Raw materials for the manufacture of wool fibers (fabrics, yarns) are obtained by shearing or combing out specially reared animals. Wool of dead animals is significantly inferior in quality, but is also used in production.
3. The performance of woolen fabrics can be improved by adding synthetic fibers. So the matter will become stronger, it will be less demanding to care for.
4. Depending on the type of wool, weaves, additional processing, there is a classification of the finished fabric, the scope of application, the quality of the fabric is determined. The marking of fabrics includes not only the type of raw material, but also its purity, processing method, and the content of impurities.
5. As a rule, one hundred percent wool is not practical and quickly loses its original appearance even with careful care. This can be avoided by adding a certain proportion of synthetic fibers. In particular, this makes it possible to produce woolen knitwear, which is in great demand in the light industry.

Wool is one of the oldest raw materials for the production of textiles for various purposes, as well as knitted products. Woolen fabric is a material obtained by weaving fibers of animal origin, namely, the hair of various animals. That is, wool is not only the villi themselves, but also the matter that is obtained from them. Natural wool is very expensive, but in high demand. The reason for this is the excellent properties of the wool. But today, half-woolen fabrics with the addition of other fibers, which are somewhat cheaper, are much more widespread.

Types of raw materials

Wool for the production of fabrics is obtained not only from sheep, as most believe. Sheep, though, is by far the most popular and affordable.

The following types of wool can serve as raw materials for woolen textiles.

• Sheep(fine-wool merino wool, lambs wool or coarser shetland and cheviot) - warm, wear-resistant, strong.
• - fibers obtained from the Himalayan goats. One of the most expensive types of wool.
• Camel- elastic and lightweight, usually used in combination with sheep for coat fabrics. A more expensive option is a hand-picked vicuña (for the production of very expensive costume materials).
• Mohair- is produced from the hair of angora goats living in South Africa, USA, Turkey. The fabric is very delicate and requires special care.
• Angora- fibers produced from wool of angora rabbits. The fabric of them is very soft, pleasant to the touch, also one of the most expensive.
• Alpaca (lama, suri)- llama wool. According to its characteristics, it is much warmer than cashmere or merino, it is used in the production of expensive clothes.

All these varieties have different density, hairiness, weight, therefore, woolen fabrics of different characteristics and purposes are obtained from them. And, of course, different price categories.

By the way, the price is significantly influenced by impurities of other fibers, especially synthetic ones, which significantly reduce shrinkage and creasing, extend the service life of things, and facilitate their care. In this case, we are already talking.

Pure wool materials include materials in which up to 10% of other natural or artificial fibers (but not synthetics) can be present.

According to the spinning method, wool fabrics are divided into three main groups.

1. Worsted- from semi-thin or semi-coarse twisted yarn. Woolen worsted fabrics are the thinnest and most common for tailoring suits.
2. Fine cloth- from fine yarn of hardware production. In structure, such materials are fleecy, of varying degrees of deflection. Woolen is obtained from them.
3. Rough cloth- from coarse hardware yarn. Accordingly, the fabrics are coarse, thick and dense. They are used for sewing informal jackets, outerwear for military personnel.

Naturally, technical characteristics, such as density, softness, thickness, strength, are significantly different for all these varieties.

Woolen products perfectly absorb foreign odors. Therefore, the aromas of the perfume will last for a very long time. However, for the same reason, smokers should not wear things made of such fabrics: persistent "amber" of cigarette smoke will accompany them constantly.

Properties of woolen textiles

In each case, fabrics made from woolen raw materials will differ not only in the method of spinning and the thickness of the threads, but also in the type of weave, density, degree of deflection, percentage and type of synthetic or artificial additives.

But in general, if we talk about all woolen fabrics, we can name several properties common to them.

• Very low thermal conductivity. That is, the maximum thermal protection. It is difficult to find another natural equivalent with this degree of human warmth retention.
• Strength and durability. Twisted yarns used in weaving are responsible for them.
• Hygroscopicity. Wool perfectly permeates air and absorbs vapors from the human body.
• Dirt resistance. This is a natural property of natural wool.
• Low creasing, for which a special twist of the threads is responsible. By the way, in order to bring a crumpled product made of such materials into a neat look, it is enough to hang it on a hanger for a while in a damp room.

If things do need ironing, it is better to use a steamer instead of an iron. Or you can iron it from the inside out, not pressing hard - with strong pressure on the surface of the fabric, you can “smooth out” its expressive texture irrevocably!

Of course, like any textile, woolen has a couple of not entirely attractive characteristics.

• Wool absorbs moisture from the environment. Walking through the fog in a woolen coat, you can find yourself in wet outerwear.
• When wet in water (during washing), the material is able to stretch strongly, which requires special delicacy.
• May cause allergic reactions depending on the fiber composition.
• Woolen fabrics, especially those with a high percentage of synthetic impurities, can accumulate static electricity (spark and "shock").

The main types of woolen fabrics, their application

As with most textiles, wool is the name of the fiber type, not the fabric itself. The wide assortment of textiles has many different names. The use of all these types is different. They are used for sewing products for various purposes: from outerwear to bed linen.

• Reps- rather dense suit fabric of the corresponding weave.
• Gabardine- also dense, but at the same time lightweight water-repellent fabric for sewing raincoats, summer coats.
• Boucle- with a surface in the form of "knots".
• Jersey- a kind of knitted fabrics, suitable for sewing dresses and other clothes.
• Velours- a canvas with a uniform dense pile. It is used for the manufacture of upholstery, sewing jackets, jackets, elegant dresses.
• Bike- thin fabric with a fleece on one side for sewing light-season coats or thin blankets.
• Cloth- heavy and very dense, rather coarse fabric for sewing outerwear.
• Flannel- thin, with double-sided fleece. Warm baby clothes and bed linen are sewn from it.
• Tweed- soft. Jackets and demi-season coats are made from it.
• Plaid- woolen checkered material used for sewing women's suits and dresses, men's shirts.
• - heavy, dense material of the coat group.
• Cashmere- dense beautiful fabric for the production of outerwear, stoles, jackets, scarves. Very high quality and expensive.
• Felt- material obtained by felting wool. Not only clothes are made from it, but also shoes and soft toys.

How to care for wool products?

It is logical to assume that coats, suits and jackets should not be machine washed, but rather dry cleaned. Skirts, trousers, dresses can be washed in a delicate mode without wringing it out with your hands. It is preferable to dry such things by spreading them out in a horizontal position. More specific guidelines can be found on clothing labels.

Woolen fabrics are a huge assortment of various textiles that are in constant demand among consumers. The main advantage of such materials is heat preservation. And the main drawback is the need for careful care. But these efforts will pay off a hundredfold with the sensations that woolen products give.

Wool - this material will be discussed, we will present a complete description of the types of woolen fabrics in our article. Products made from natural wool have long been considered one of the most expensive in the world. This is explained by the unique properties of the fabric that no other material possesses.

Description, types of wool and its purpose

Wool (100%) is the name of a group of textile fabrics, in the production of which animal hair is used. From such raw materials, yarn, fabrics, knitwear, and felt products are produced. The most valuable fibers for the production of linen are obtained from animal fluff. They are thin, soft, twisted. From such fibers, a thin woolen fabric is obtained. Angora is produced from the wool of rabbits, from the hair of goats - and mohair, from llamas -.

Most of the existing types of woven wool fabrics are obtained from sheep's hair. These are the following types of woolen fabrics: boston, boucle, gabardine, velor, drape, carpetcoat, plush, ratin, fay, cheviot and others.

Unlike natural, artificial wool is produced chemically and is called whistra. In terms of properties, it is significantly inferior to natural matter, but, nevertheless, it is widely used in the manufacture of children's toys, hosiery and hats.

History

Not a single millennium has passed since the moment when a person learned to produce wool. This was due to the domestication of animals, which, in addition to milk and meat, became a source of valuable fiber. In the Middle Ages, such matter became popular in many European countries, and in England its production was even controlled by the government.

With the advent of synthetics, this material was undeservedly relegated to the background. This lasted until the very time when they began to add to the wool. Thanks to them, the products have become more durable, wear-resistant and stopped shrinking when washed. It is such a canvas that is most popular today.

Characteristics of woolen fabrics

The characteristics of different types of woolen fabrics may differ. It depends on the density of the fabric and on the type of weaving of the fibers.

But some properties of natural 100% wool remain unchanged:

• crease resistance;
• resistance to absorption of dirt and dust;
• high hygroscopicity;
• strength and durability;
• thermal protection;
• hypoallergenic.

Features of production

Depending on which animal is the source of valuable fibers, there is merino, camel, sheep, angora, alpaca wool.

It is harvested in various ways: during the molting of animals, stripped from the skin or restored from scraps of yarn. This is followed by the processing of the resulting wool and the manufacture of spinning threads of different thicknesses from it. Thin yarn is used to produce thin woolen fabric, which is used in sewing women's dresses and suits, and thick yarns are used to produce a coarser fabric, you will find even more information in the "" section.

Application

The assortment of woolen fabrics defines a wide area of ​​their application. Most often, the material is used in sewing clothes and home textiles. Read about how to choose a woolen blanket. A denser woolen fabric is used in the manufacture of outerwear, hats and bags. The thin material is suitable for sewing dresses, suits, home textiles and bedding.

When caring for products based on woolen fibers, there are some difficulties that can be dealt with by drying and ironing this delicate fabric.

And:

We suggest watching a video about this material together:

Wool is a group of tissues that are of natural origin, the source of which is the hairline of animals. Woolen fabrics can be presented in pure form or with various additives, both synthetic and natural. The main task of this canvas is its thermal insulation properties.

A bit of history

Once humans were able to tame animals such as sheep and goats, they learned how to use animal hair to make woolen fabric. They knew how to use this raw material in the most ancient times, but then there were no scissors, and instead of them they used special combs. The archaeological excavations carried out indicate that wool appeared and was actively used as early as 1500 BC. Also, historians claim that wool fibers of wild goats were found in prehistoric caves in Georgia. This find dates back to 34,000 BC.

Back in the days of Ancient Rome wool, like flax, was very much in demand and popular among all classes in Europe. The most popular was wool, which was produced in Tarentum - because of the excellent properties due to the careful care of the animals.

The active trade in wool began only in the Middle Ages, and since the 13th century, the economy of many countries, such as Italy and Benelux. After 100 years, Italy became the most developed in the direction of the manufacture of woolen cloth. Soon, woolen production began to gain momentum in England, and was quite an important aspect of the country's economic development. The first English wool factory was built in Winchester. In England there were quite strict laws on wool production, smugglers were punished for some time with cutting off their hands.

Woolen fabrics have been in great demand for a long time, but with the development of technological progress and the emergence of new synthetic materials that are cheaper and more affordable, the demand for wool has dropped. In this regard, in 1966, wool production was reduced by 40%. In the 1970s, a new technology for the production of washing wool appeared. In the manufacture of such wool, the fiber was treated so that the wool product could be machine washed. In 2009, the United Nations General Assembly proclaimed that year the year of natural fibers, which significantly increased the prestige and demand for natural wool fabrics.

About 270 thousand tons of sheep wool are produced annually in the world, with about a third of this amount accounted for by Australia, and the rest - by the CIS countries, New Zealand, Argentina, South Africa, Uruguay, China, Turkey and USA .

Woolen fabrics, made from a mixture of long and short fibers, are soft (although they do not wrinkle), but do not retain sharp folds. Worsted woolen fabrics, or combed wool fabrics, are made from long fibers only. They are smooth, strong, fairly durable, but get their gloss in the process. socks... Redesigned for the first time wool gives, as a rule, more durable and more elastic textile than other types of wool.

Wool is the hairline of animals (sheep, goats, camels, etc.). The bulk of the wool processed in the industry is sheep. Types of wool fibers: fluff(the most valuable thin, soft crimped fiber), transitional hair, awn (thicker, stiffer and less crimped than fluff, fiber) and "dead hair" (low-strength and hard). Yarn, fabrics are made from wool, jersey, felted-felt products, etc.

Types of elite wool

There are many varieties of wool, but the most popular and significant is the elite wool group.

So, at present, the elite group includes:

Cashmere("Royal yarn") is a rather refined, chic and expensive material, which consists of threads only 13-19 microns thick, which is much thinner than a human hair. Delicate and soft material, looks quite expensive and beautiful, lightweight and able to keep warm. Non-allergenic material. Cashmere is made from the undercoat of a mountain goat, which belongs to the cashmere breed. The animal lives in Tibet and in the province of Kashmir, which is located between Pakistan and India. In addition, this breed of goats is bred in New Zealand, Scotland and Australia. Raw cashmere consists of threads that are only 13-19 microns thick (human hair -50 microns), so touching cashmere creates a feeling of splendor.

Cashmere is so delicate that any shade in which it is painted looks as if through a light haze, very pleasant to the eye.To obtain fluff, the goat is not sheared, but manually combed out once a year, in spring, during molting. At the same time, one goat brings only 100-200 grams of fluff, and for production coat 1.5-1.8 kg of cashmere linen is consumed, that is, 15 animals. This is one of the reasons for the very high prices for 100% cashmere items. Another reason for the popularity and high cost of cashmere is its exceptional softness, lightness, ability to keep warm and the absence of allergic reactions to it.

Cashmere is growing in popularity. Today, buyers choose cashmere as the best available on the market. It may be expensive, but the exceptional comfort it creates attracts more and more fans of this material all over the world.

Alpaca Is a type of wool that is made from wool alpaca(a kind of llama) that lives in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude of 4000 meters. The wool of this animal is very expensive because alpaca- This is a rare animal, and it is sheared only once a year, receiving only 3.5 kg of wool from one animal. This type of wool is characterized by lightness and silkiness, lasts quite a long time and retains its unique properties of silkiness. Possesses high thermoregulatory properties, durability, resistance to pollution and does not cause allergies. The material is quite smooth and pleasant to the body.

ALPACA (ALPACA) is a type of llama. Lives in the Peruvian Andes at an altitude of 4000-5000m. in extreme conditions (bright sun, cold wind, sudden temperature changes). Alpacas are a rare animal; their dear wool is sheared by alpacas, unlike sheep. once a year and get only 3-3.5 kg of wool from one animal. has exceptional properties:

• It is light, soft, homogeneous and silky, retaining a unique silky shine for the entire service life of the product; very warm (7 times warmer than a sheep's), with high thermoregulatory properties (it is warm in the cold and not hot in the warmth);
• durable (3 times stronger than a sheep's), not prone to rolling, dumping and jamming;
• resistant to pollution and does not cause allergic reactions;
• unlike the scaly and therefore prickly fibers of sheep's wool, alpaca fibers are smooth and comfortable to the touch;
• it has the largest range of natural colors (22 shades: from black, gray, burgundy, brown, cream to white).

No other type of wool has similar qualities. All of these properties create a feeling of unique aesthetic and physical comfort for the owners of alpaca wool products.

Suri Is a type of wool that is particularly soft. Derived from the wool of an animal suri (a variety alpaca), very valuable and expensive wool... Many years ago, this wool was used for sewing clothes only for royalty, and a little later for rich people. There are two known alpaca breeds: HUAKAYA and SURI.

Compared to Wakaya, the Suri fleece consists of longer and thinner fibers (19-25 microns) - these are uniform and thick curls, straight along the entire length and slightly curled at the ends, they do not contain guard hairs that reduce the quality of the fleece.

Suri's wool is particularly soft and graceful. In the old days, it was used exclusively for royalty.

Depending on the thickness of the fibers, alpaca fleeces are sorted into five quality categories.

The best quality is wool of the type "BABY" (20 microns). If the original was the Suri fleece, then it represents the best, rarest and most expensive alpaca wool, called "Baby Suri Alpaca" - this is an alpaca of the highest quality in the world.

Angora- This is a type of wool, the material of which has a delicate pile, softness, but has a number of disadvantages, for example, the fragile fixation of rabbit fluff in the yarn leads to rapid abrasion. Angora is produced from the fluff of Angora rabbits, which are bred in China, USA and many European countries. There are currently five breeds of Angora rabbits: Satin, English, German, French and Giant breeds. Their difference is in color, size and length of downy fibers.

ANGORA - These are Angora rabbits.

Once China In response to the overstatement by Turkey of the price of the demanded wool of angora goats, it released a softer and cheaper yarn called "Angora". As it turned out, it was fluff wild rabbits called Angora. Under these conditions, the Turks called the wool of the Angora goats "mohair", which in Arabic means "the chosen one." Subsequently, Angora rabbits began to be bred in Europe and the United States.

Angora rabbits are the most adorable of the rabbits, reminiscent of an animated soft toy. Currently, five breeds of Angora rabbits are industrially bred in the world: English, French, German, Giant and Satin. They differ in size and weight (2.5-5.5 kg), length of downy fibers, thickness of guard hair, color, volume of wool produced annually (0.4-1.3 kg).

Angora wool extremely soft, very warm and fluffy, with a characteristic delicate bristle. Products made from angora wool create unique comfort and are therefore very popular and in demand. But, angora wool has its own drawbacks: the fragile fixing of rabbit fluff in the yarn can cause abrasion of the fabric; the need to protect the angora from excessive moisture and to clean it only by chemical means. Nevertheless, products made from high-quality angora can last for more than one year.

Merino wool- This is a type of wool, the material of which is made using very thin threads of 13.5-23 microns. It is characterized by excellent thermostatic properties, elasticity and does not cause allergic reactions. It is made of wool from the withers of a merino sheep. This animal is common in Asia, Western Europe, North America and Australia.

Camel's wool Is a type of wool that is produced from the downy undercoat of a bactrian camel, which is common in Central and East Asia. Camel's wool possesses softness, silkiness, is also quite strong and elastic. This wool is resistant to dirt, has good thermoregulatory properties and is self-cleaning. Besides, camel's wool does not cause allergies and has a beneficial effect on the skin, joints and blood vessels. They produce wool only in natural colors, since camel fluff not treatable with chemicals.

Mohair Is a type of wool that is produced from the wool of angora goats that live in Turkey, the United States and South Africa. Mohair has strength, lightness and naturalness. It is characterized by a silky sheen, durability and abrasion resistance. Mohair is divided into three types: the hair of a young goat up to 6 months old, the hair of a kid up to 2 years old and the hair of an adult goat. The natural color of mohair is white, but easily stained. Products made of mohair require careful and delicate care and storage. It is not recommended to expose mohair products to high temperatures.

MOHAIR (MOHAIR) - wool of Angora goats living in Turkey (Angora province), South Africa and the USA. Moreover, more than 60% of the world's mohair is produced in South Africa.

Mohair is a luxurious natural fiber. It is one of the warmest and most durable natural materials, while being exceptionally light and silky. Its natural shine is stable and durable, it does not fade after staining. No other wool has such a great long pile with a long lasting natural shine.

Mohair is of three main types:

• Hair of a young kid up to 6 months (Kid Mohair), obtained at the first shearing. It is a thin (23-27 µm) and soft fiber with a length of 100-150 mm. Kid Mohair of the highest selected quality is called Super Kid - the finest and most delicate fiber, silky and luxurious to the touch.
• Goating wool up to 2 years old (Goating Mohair), obtained after the second haircut. She is also soft and thin.
• The wool of adult goats (Adult Mohair), it is thicker (30 microns) and coarser than the rest.

The first two types of mohair are used to produce luxury yarn. Mohair from adult goats is used, in particular, in the production of outerwear.

The wool of Angora goats is uniform and usually white, which is especially appreciated due to its ability to easily dye in any color: from soft pastel to the most juicy.

Dyed mohair looks bright and natural at the same time. Its natural shine does not disappear after staining, and the paints do not fade or fade for many years.

Mohair products require delicate storage and careful care. They must be hung on hangers, in order to avoid the appearance of folds, do not expose to high temperatures and dry at room temperature; clean only dry, not forgetting that chemical treatment can shorten their service life.

Llama Is a type of wool that is made from the wool of a llama native to Peru... It is characterized by softness, lightness, good thermal insulation properties and does not cause allergies and skin irritation. The natural colors of the llama are from white to dark brown, easily stained, but only with natural paints.

LAMA (LAMA) - as well as Alpaca, originally from Peru. It has been used for a long time as a beast of burden, so today there are llamas with both thin elastic hair and coarse hair, which requires the selection of animals before shearing or brushing.

Llama wool is a protein fiber that does not contain natural oils and lanolin. It has a full base structure and consists of two layers: an upper protective hair and an undercoat (down). The top hair is thick and does not curl. Its share is up to 20%. The undercoat is soft and luxurious, 20-40 microns thick. It is used to make high-end clothing. With a full haircut, both layers are removed and the protective hair is removed from the coat. When combing out, I get only the undercoat. During processing, llama wool retains 90-93% of its original weight. The range of wool types, and the population of llamas is very wide, which requires its selection for a specific type of product.

Llama wool is characterized by lightness and softness, the ability to perfectly retain heat (heat capacity) and provide comfort in a wide temperature range (thermostatic). It does not cause allergic reactions, is able to repel water and, unlike other types of wool, regulate its moisture content in a range convenient for humans.

Llama wool has an exceptional variety of natural shades: from white, ash pink, light brown, gray and silver to dark brown and black. White wool dyes well. When painting, only natural paints are used.

Merino wool

MERINOS WOOL (MERINOS) is wool taken from the withers of a merino sheep. Merino, a breed of fine-wooled sheep, whose homeland is considered to be Western Asia. Subsequently, they spread to Western Europe, North America and Australia.

Today, in Australia alone, there are about 150 million merino, with one sheep on average producing up to 15 kg of wool per year (other sheep breeds 6-7 kg). The yield of pure wool is 35-45%.

Merino wool homogeneous and consists of very thin (13.5-23 microns) and soft downy fibers (in coarse-wooled breeds 23-35 microns). It is long (hair length 6-8 cm per year), white, warm, and has excellent thermostatic properties. Due to natural curls, it is elastic. It is important that it does not irritate the skin.

Merino wool is more expensive than regular wool. The price of the best batches of this wool (14-16 microns) at annual auctions reached several thousand dollars per kilogram.

CAMEL (CAMEL) is the downy undercoat of the non-working Bactrian camel (Bactrian), which lives in Central and East Asia. The most valuable is the wool of the Mongolian Bactrian.

The coat of a camel consists of outer coarse hair (25-100 µm) and inner delicate fluff (17-21 µm), accounting for 80-85% of the volume. It is he who is called " camel's wool". Once a year, it is harvested (or combed out) in the amount of 4-9 kg from one camel, sorted by color and composition, after which the thinnest and softest fluff sent to the production of fabrics. For the manufacture of high quality fabrics, the lightest and thinnest is usually used fluff young camels (up to a year).

Camel's wool lightweight (twice as light as a sheep's), soft and silky, but at the same time, the most durable and elastic. It is practical to wear, stain resistant and self-cleaning. It is the warmest and at the same time an excellent heat insulator that maintains a constant body temperature in various conditions. It protects well from moisture, and is also able to absorb and quickly evaporate it, leaving the body dry. You will never sweat in camel hair. In addition, it does not cause allergies and is able to relieve static stress.

Camel wool has unique healing and health-improving properties. Since ancient times, it has served as a cure for many diseases (more than 40). Its dry heat and the organic substances contained in it have a beneficial effect on the skin, muscles and joints, improve blood circulation, promote vasodilation, activate metabolism and regenerative processes in tissues. Colds, osteochondrosis, sciatica, rheumatism, excess weight - this is just a small part of the ailments from which it can protect and relieve

Popular woolen fabrics and their applications

Nowadays there are many woolen fabrics, both pure and mixed. Wool fabrics have a variety of uses, depending on the density of the fabric, the weave, and even the color. The most commonly used fabrics are:

Properties and care of wool

Woolen fabrics have the following characteristics: they practically do not wrinkle, they are a little dirty, and they are quite elastic. In addition, woolen fabrics are wear and abrasion resistant, they perfectly absorb water and steam. Natural wool without synthetic impurities does not burn, but smolders, is considered a light and versatile material.

The woolen fabric is easy to iron - just hang the woolen garment in a room with high humidity. However, woolen fabrics tend to pile fibers, so they must be washed using special detergents, at a water temperature of no more than 300C. Wool fabrics are not recommended to be rubbed or twisted, but should be dried on a flat surface, avoiding direct sunlight and heating appliances. It is necessary to iron wool products with a moisturizing function.

How to care for woolen garments?

Woolen things can not be washed in hot water, since from this they quickly lose their shape, the wool felts. Ideally, the temperature of the water for washing should not be higher than 30 degrees. For washing, use detergents intended for wool products, do not use chlorine bleach or other aggressive detergents. Add conditioner to the water to soften the coat.

It is undesirable to soak woolen things before washing, if there is no urgent need for it, and in general, the less such a product will spend in water, the better. It is better to use soft water for washing, so if you can soften the ph level of the water, be sure to do so. It is impossible to abruptly replace hot water with cold water, both during the wash itself and during rinsing. This can lead to the fact that the thing can strongly "sit down".

Drying, ironing and storage

After washing, wool products are not strongly wrung out or twisted, as this can lead to their deformation. For the same reason, woolen items cannot be dried by hanging them on a rope, as there is a risk that they will stretch too much. Dry the wool in a horizontal position on a towel or sheet. In this case, the thing will not lose its shape. Also, do not dry woolen products in direct sunlight.

You can iron woolen items, but only through a layer of gauze if the iron is normal. If the iron is steam, then iron in a special mode " wool»With the addition of steam. However, you should not get too carried away with ironing, try to do it as little as possible.

Store woolen items in places where there are no moths. From time to time, the wool needs to be ventilated so that it does not get stale. You cannot permanently store such clothes on a hanger, as they can stretch out and lose their shape. It is best to keep it rolled up in a dresser in plastic bags. Remember that if you take care of woolen things correctly, they will not lose their attractive appearance for a long time, and from them socks you will receive only positive emotions.