Spiraea Wangutta - planting and care, as well as pruning (photos and instructions). Proper pruning of spirea, caring for the plant in the fall, preparing for winter Spiraea vangutta description

Garden equipment 13.06.2019
Garden equipment

There is nothing more beautiful than having a garden on your property, albeit small, but stunning in its beauty. Along with the usual cherries, apple trees and apricots, everything more people They strive to bring some variety, a kind of “zest” that will bloom to the delight of the owner and the envy of the neighbors.

Spiraea Wangutta can easily be considered one of these plants.

Ornamental shrubs Spiraea Vangutta is a luxurious and extremely unpretentious plant, which is very often used by gardeners to decorate summer cottages and gardens, as well as parks. The shrub has proven itself flawlessly in single plantings and group plantings, even with bushes and trees of other species.

Individual varieties of spirea differ in size, flowering period, life expectancy, growing speed, as well as the shape and color of the inflorescences. According to the majority, it is the Vangutta spirea, planting and caring for which does not cause any hassle, that is the most beautiful and suitable for decorating your site.

Spiraea Vangutta: description

This shrub, despite its beauty and unpretentiousness, is not so well known among gardeners in our country, but those who nevertheless come across the Vangutta spirea irrevocably fall in love with it. That is why you should understand what Spiraea Vangutta is, a description of which is presented below.

The ornamental shrub of this variety was bred in the middle of the 19th century as a hybrid based on two varieties already known at that time. Thanks to its impressive size (up to 2 meters in height and diameter), the shrub involuntarily attracts the eye. In addition, when the spirea Vangutta blooms, it is covered with lush flowers white, highlighting the bush with its unique beauty among other plants.

Due to the abundance of flowering brushes, as a rule, the shoots of the bush bend towards the soil, forming sweeping arc-cascades. The bush begins to bloom in late spring - early summer and lasts 2-3 weeks. It is not uncommon for spirea Vangutta, after flowering in the spring, to bloom a second time towards the end of summer, but it is worth noting that the second flowering is not so abundant and beautiful. It is noteworthy that spirea can also be planted in apiaries, since bees willingly pollinate the plant and feed on its nectar.

Important! Spiraea Vangutta is one of the plants that prefer an abundance of sunlight, but this shrub easily tolerates prolonged shade, only slightly slowing down in growth rates.

The shoots of the bush are quite long and have a characteristic dark brown color. The white flowers are quite small, but densely cover all branches, giving them noticeable volume. In addition to the classic color, varieties of the variety with a wider range of colors are now being actively developed.

Did you know? IN late XIX centuries, botanists were able to obtain spirea Wangutta with white five-petaled inflorescences. Today you can already find this shrub with pink and double flowers and foliage of decorative shape and color.


Features of planting spirea Vangutta on a summer cottage

Vangutta is quite unpretentious in care and cultivation, however, as in the case of others garden shrubs and trees, the main stage that determines the result is planting spirea in open ground. Therefore, before growing spirea in the country, you should take into account all the recommendations regarding the choice of location and planting technology.

Choice of lighting: where to plant spirea Wangutta

Spiraea is quite dependent on abundant solar lighting. Ensuring this condition allows the shrub to bloom actively and abundantly. It is noteworthy that the plant also tolerates light darkening, slowing down in growth, but without dying, like other sun-loving bushes. But you need to immediately understand that the flowering will be weak and will last a short time.

There are no preferences regarding other factors in choosing a landing site, because the decorative bush Spiraea Vangutta tolerates any neighborhood well.

What should the soil be like for planting?


Like other representatives of the species and family, Spiraea Vangutta prefers mainly fertile, loose soil and organized drainage. It is very important that the soil has an acidity of no more than 7 units. Most the best option creating suitable conditions for growing this shrub is self-study soil and the introduction of component fertilizers into it.

The best soil composition - mixture turf land, sand and peat in a ratio of 2:1:1, respectively. If it is not possible to make such a composition or it is simply irrelevant, then it is enough to add peat or sand separately to the existing soil. In all cases, without exception, before planting the Vangutta spirea, you need to abundantly saturate the soil of the planting pit with mineral and organic fertilizers.

Did you know?In specialized stores they are already offered ready-made mixtures soil for planting ornamental plants. This not only greatly simplifies the task and saves time, but also guarantees a positive result.

How to properly plant spirea Vangutta in the garden


Proper planting of a shrub largely determines not only the growth rate and flowering activity, but also whether the spirea will take root in the chosen location. As mentioned earlier, Vangutta, although one of the unpretentious plants, still has its own preferences regarding soil quality and lighting. Therefore, those gardeners who have decided to grow Vangutta spirea and are wondering how to plant and care for it should know that the key to success lies in making the right choice places for planting, selection of seedlings and compliance with planting technology.

Selection of seedlings and soil preparation

When choosing a seedling of this ornamental plant, you should pay careful attention to the condition of its root system, because it is this factor that determines the durability of the spirea and its life expectancy.

The roots must be strong, without flaws or damage. In addition, their number plays an important role - the more branches, the faster Vangutta will take root in a new place.

The branches of the bush should be smooth and free of cracks. Small buds should be visible on them.

Important! If the purchased seedling has an open root system, it should be visually examined, and then the damaged areas should be removed. In the same way, you need to shorten the excess length of the roots (no more than 20 cm). It is important that the cuts are made smoothly and accurately. After root pruning is completed, damaged top shoots should be checked and removed.


The final stage of preparing seedlings for planting in open ground is keeping them in aqueous solution fertilizers A daily stay of a seedling in such water significantly strengthens it and increases its durability.

The planting hole for spirea should be approximately equal to the total size of the root system and have a depth of about 50 cm. As a rule, the most optimal size is 50 x 50 x 50 cm. Preparing the soil consists primarily of loosening it, clearing roots and weeds, and fertilizing and subsequent watering. In order for the bush to take root faster, you can add peat or sawdust into the hole.

Important! It is better to prepare the size of the planting hole individually for each bush, taking into account the dimensions of the root system. At the time of planting the bush in the hole, at least 5-7 cm should remain on each side from the root to the wall.

Scheme of planting spirea Vangutta seedlings

Quite often, gardeners wonder when to plant spirea Vangutta. It is advisable to note that planting in open ground can be done both in spring and autumn, and it is better to do this when either the buds open or the leaves completely fall off.


White spirea Vangutta is planted in a previously prepared (loose and fertilized) planting hole. Having carefully positioned the root system of the shrub at a depth of 20-30 cm, the purified black soil, sawdust, peat, and again black soil are gradually filled in.

The layer of soil should be at least 10 cm, sawdust and peat 3-5 cm. It is advisable to water and compact each subsequent layer a little. You need to pour until a small mound is formed, which will subsequently settle.

Spiraea Vangutta begins to bloom for the first time in the third or fourth year after planting.

Subtleties of caring for spirea Vangutta

Caring for spirea in spring and autumn is quite simple and straightforward. Every gardener can easily master the basic preferences of this ornamental shrub. The basis of care is proper watering, feeding and timely pruning.

Watering and soil care

All spirea, without exception, can be conditionally classified as plants that are capable of growing on their own, without any human intervention. The entire process of caring for a bush can easily be reduced to moderate watering and minimal soil care.

The location of the root system of this ornamental shrub is shallow, which is why there is a need to mulch the soil and water the spirea bush every 2 weeks, adding 2 buckets of water (20 liters) under the root of each plant.

Important!Spiraea Vangutta categorically does not tolerate cold water, therefore it is necessary to organize watering with infused water (+15...20 °C).

IN mandatory It is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and clear it of weeds. It is worth remembering that the roots are close to the surface, so weeding must be done carefully.

Feeding and fertilizing the plant

For feeding, it is best to use complex mineral or organic fertilizer with the addition of superphosphates. Feeding should be organized at least once a season, and also necessarily after each pruning in spring and autumn.

Spirea pruning

Sooner or later, a moment comes when the size of the bush simply forces you to do “planned” pruning. It is extremely important that the Vangutta spirea bush, which will be pruned, retains its original decorative appearance.

On spirea, which blooms in spring and summer, the flowers are located along the entire length of the branch, so only the damaged and aged tips of the shoots need to be removed. It is recommended to remove the shoots completely no earlier than after 7-8 years. This pruning involves removing the shoot at ground level. It is advisable to leave no more than 6-8 wildly flowering shoots from the young branches of the bush during thorough cleaning. Such pruning should be carried out annually, rejuvenating the entire spirea bush.

The average lifespan of a bush that is regularly and, most importantly, properly rejuvenated, reaches 15-20 years with active annual flowering. Thus, for spirea correct landing and care, feeding and pruning essential components of good growth and long life.

How to propagate spirea Wangutta

Currently, propagation of the ornamental shrub spirea Vangutta is possible in several ways: seeds, cuttings, dividing the bush and layering. Each of them allows you to increase the beauty of your personal plot, but has its own characteristics and tricks.


Propagation by spirea seeds can be considered the most inconvenient way. This is due to the fact that seedlings do not retain varietal qualities. In view of this, seed cultivation is resorted to only when the issue concerns non-hybrid species. In this case, long and labor-intensive, but not always quite effective, seed stratification is required.
  • Propagation by cuttings
It is extremely important to know how to grow spirea from cuttings, since this method is considered the most effective, simple and popular. Such reproduction is distinguished by impeccable results. According to the observations of experts, correct and timely preparation of spirea bush cuttings in 75% of cases allows them to take root even without the use of special means stimulating the formation of roots.

Preparation of cuttings from bushes blooming in spring should be carried out in June, and spirea, blooming in summer, - at the end of July. Harvested cuttings take root by mid-autumn.

For cuttings, select a strong one-year-old shoot and divide it into cuttings with 5-6 buds. Bottom sheets removed from the cuttings, and the rest cut in half. To increase efficiency, it is recommended to soak the resulting cuttings in a solution of Epin and a root growth stimulating agent. The sections remaining on the spirea bush must be treated with garden varnish.


The resulting cuttings are planted in a moist substrate, which can be vermiculite, sand, fertilized soil or perlite. In some cases, it is desirable to create greenhouse conditions by covering the container with seedlings and maintaining a uniform temperature and constant humidity in it.

It is important to periodically let them get enough fresh air, and during cold spells, protect from low temperatures. This can be done with foliage, branches, tops and any available material.

Planting cuttings in open ground is carried out in the spring, when small shoots appear and root system.


It is best to divide the bush in the autumn. To do this, you need to carefully dig out the spirea completely. It is best to clear the root system of the remaining soil in order to determine the most optimal location for separation, that is, the cut. Each divided bush should have at least 3-4 strong shoots.

The resulting Vangutta spirea shrubs should be planted in pre-prepared planting holes in which the soil is fertilized and drainage is provided.

To propagate spirea in this way, you need to carefully bend one of the strongest shoots to the ground in the spring and place it in a specially prepared hole. At the point where the shoot touches the ground, you need to make a small cut and clean the bark. You can secure the branch using pins or staples. After this, the layering is covered with fertilizers and soil.

In autumn, propagation by layering gives results - an additional root system is formed at the site of the cut, and a new seedling can be separated and planted.

Did you know? From long shoots you can get several new cuttings at once by burying the selected branch in several places.

The main diseases and pests of Spiraea Wangutta

Unfortunately for gardeners, spirea Vangutta lovers also include pests; the plant is also susceptible to garden diseases.

Most dangerous pest spirea is considered to be spider mite.The main signs of the formation of its colonies are the appearance of cobwebs, rapid yellowing and falling of leaves, the presence of holes on the leaves and inflorescences of the shrub, as well as a general deterioration in its appearance.

The fight against ticks should begin immediately, using all possible and available funds. Treatment with Phosfamide or Karbofos is most effective. IN in this case the method and dosage of the spraying composition should be selected according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

IN summer period red spirea Wangutta, like its white counterpart, is often attacked aphids, which sucks the juice from mature inflorescences.

Important! "Pirimor" can also be used to combat leaf rollers, miners, caterpillars and other pests.

There are no separate diseases characteristic only of spirea Vangutta, since in most cases these are diseases that affect all garden plants. Regardless of the problem detected: spots on the leaves and their shedding, darkening of the bark, wilting of branches, it is worth immediately removing the affected area, treating the cut with garden varnish, and the entire ornamental shrub process and feed.

Spiraea Vangutta is an amazingly beautiful ornamental shrub that will certainly decorate any garden or garden. personal plot. It does not require constant care and reverent attitude, but at the same time it regularly pleases with amazing flowering. Having decided to plant Vangutta spirea on your site and creating for it optimal conditions, every gardener will receive a bush of mesmerizing beauty, causing delight and envy.

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Spiraea Vanhouttei (lat. Spiraea x vanhouttei)- a fast-growing ornamental shrub of the Rosaceae family, a deciduous hybrid between Spiraea triloba and Spiraea Cantonica. Spiraea Vangutta has been cultivated since 1868.

Planting and caring for spirea Vangutta (in brief)

  • Bloom: several weeks from mid-June or early July, re-blooming possible in August.
  • Landing: in the fall, during the leaf fall period, although planting is possible in the spring, before the sap begins to flow.
  • Lighting: bright light or light partial shade.
  • The soil: any, including too wet and poor, but dry sandy soils are most suitable.
  • Watering: during dry seasons, the soil should be soaked to a depth of 50 cm; the rest of the time, watering should be moderate and not too frequent.
  • Feeding: In spring, complex mineral fertilizer for ornamental plants is applied to the tree trunk circle. If necessary, it can be added before the onset of cold weather.
  • Trimming: sanitary and formative after flowering.
  • Reproduction: cuttings, layering and dividing the bush, less often - seeds.
  • Pests: aphids, bud gall midges and meadowsweet blue sawflies.
  • Diseases: practically not affected.

Read more about growing spirea Vangutta below

Spiraea Wangutta - description

The height of the Vangutta spirea is about 2 m, and approximately the same is the diameter of its cascading spreading crown. The branches of the plant arch downwards. Serrated along the edges, three-to-five-lobed obovate leaves of Spiraea Wangutta, up to 3.5 cm long, are dark green on the upper side, and dull-gray underneath. White flowers are collected in numerous hemispherical inflorescences covering the entire length of the shoots. Flowering begins in mid-June or early July and lasts several weeks. In July or August, spirea Wangutta may re-bloom. The fruits ripen in mid-autumn.

Planting spirea Vangutta in open ground

When to plant Spiraea Wangutta

For this plant it is preferable autumn planting, which is carried out from early to mid-October, but if you did not have time to plant spirea within the specified time frame, do it in the spring before the sap begins to flow. Spiraea Wangutta seedlings with an open root system tolerate transplantation more painfully than those in containers. By the way, seedlings with closed roots can be planted throughout the growing season.

The spirea Wangutta shrub is unpretentious, frost-resistant, and relatively shade-tolerant, although it prefers well-lit areas. Spiraea Vangutta is insensitive to air pollution and tolerates both smoke and smog.

How to plant spirea Wangutta

Spiraea grows best in dry sandy soil, but can also grow well in other soils, including poor or too wet ones.

Before planting, seedlings are placed in water for at least three hours, then damaged, dry or rotten roots are removed, and healthy ones are slightly shortened, as are shoots that are too thin or long. The pit for spirea at a depth of 40-50 cm should be a quarter larger in volume than the root system of the plant. A drainage layer of broken brick (crushed stone) and sand about 15 cm thick is laid at the bottom of the planting pit, and the top layer is fertile layer soil removed from the pit is mixed with compost and sand. The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root collar is level with the surface of the site, and the remaining space is filled with soil mixture. After planting, the soil in the tree trunk circle is compacted and watered abundantly with non-cold water, and as soon as it is absorbed, the surface around the seedling is mulched with a layer of peat 7 cm thick.

Caring for Spirea Vangutta

Planting and caring for spirea Vangutta is simple and not labor-intensive. In dry weather and after pruning, water the plant so as to wet the soil in the circle around the trunk to a depth of about half a meter. The rest of the time, spirea needs moderate and not too abundant watering, after which the soil is loosened and removed. weed around the plant.

Pruning the Vangutta spirea after flowering not only shapes the crown of the bush, but also stimulates the formation of new shoots and the formation of flower buds, as a result of which the spirea will bloom more luxuriantly than before. If you notice that the flowering of adult spirea has become scarce, immediately after dropping the leaves, carry out a radical rejuvenating pruning of the plant.

For normal development and abundant flowering, Spiraea Vangutta requires only one fertilizing with complex fertilizers for ornamental plants, which is applied in the spring, but some gardeners believe that the same fertilizing should be applied to the soil before the onset of cold weather.

Despite the high resistance of spirea Vangutta to diseases and pests, sometimes the plant can be occupied by aphids, bud gall midges and meadowsweet blue sawflies. As soon as you find pests, immediately remove all insect-affected leaves from the bush and burn them, and treat the plant with an insecticide-acaricide.

Reproduction of Spiraea Wangutta

Since the germination rate of Vangutta spirea seeds is only 5%, the plant is propagated by cuttings, layering or dividing the bush.

Spiraea cuttings approximately two weeks after flowering. Choose healthy and strong semi-lignified shoots for cuttings. They are rooted in a box with a substrate made of equal parts of peat and river sand. It is best to place the box with cuttings in a greenhouse, thereby ensuring high level humidity of the substrate and air. A year later, cuttings with a well-developed root system are planted in separate containers for growing.

Most easy way reproduction of spirea - rooting of layering. In the spring, a low-growing, semi-lignified branch is bent to the ground, placed in a pre-made groove, leaving the tip of the shoot on the surface, the branch is fixed with a metal pin, after which the groove is filled up fertile soil. The cuttings are watered throughout the season and covered with dry leaves for the winter. In the spring, the rooted branch is separated from the bush and transplanted to a permanent place.

Dividing the bush can be done by transplanting spirea. The bush is dug up and carefully divided into parts, each of which should have strong roots and developed shoots. The sections are treated with crushed coal, after which the sections are planted in pre-prepared pits.

Varieties of spirea Wangutta

Spiraea Vangutta has several decorative forms:

  • Snow White– white spirea Vangutta;
  • Pink Ice– young leaves of this variety are decorated with white and pink spots, and the apical inflorescences are cream-colored;
  • Renaissance– spirea, characterized by high resistance to diseases;
  • Spiraea Wangutta Gold Fontaine– a new plant variety of Polish selection. This is a spreading, slowly growing shrub up to 120 cm high with a crown diameter of about one and a half meters. The white flowers of plants of this variety are collected in corymbose inflorescences.

Spirea ( Spiraea ) got its name from the Greek word "speira" - bend. The branches are very elegant and in most species they bend beautifully, which was the reason for Latin name kind. But we also have our own popular name for this shrub - meadowsweet (with the emphasis in the south on the last syllable, and in the north on the first). This is completely wrong, since the genus of meadowsweet includes, although similar to spirea, but only herbaceous plants, while all spirea are shrubs of varying sizes.

The genus includes about 90 species, distributed mainly in forest-steppe, steppe and semi-desert zones, and the subalpine mountain belt of the Northern Hemisphere.

Deciduous shrubs, rarely exceeding 2 m in height. The natural shape of the bush is very different, there are: pyramidal, weeping, hemispherical, erect, creeping, cascading, etc. Species differ among themselves in the shape and color of graceful leaves; many change their green attire to orange, yellow or purple-red in the fall. A large number of a wide variety of species allows, with skillful selection, to achieve them continuous flowering from spring to late autumn.

Spiraea are valued for their abundant and long-lasting flowering. Their flowers are small but numerous, collected in inflorescences of various shapes: corymbose, paniculate, spike-shaped or pyramidal. Some have single flowers. The color of the flowers is also varied - from pure white to crimson.

Based on the time of flowering, they are divided into two groups - spring-flowering and summer-flowering. In the former, flowering usually occurs on last year's shoots and the flowers are white; representatives of the second group have pink, red, crimson flowers, and flowering occurs on the shoots of the current year. This division is also reflected in the agricultural technology of caring for spirea; blooming in spring species are pruned immediately after flowering, and those blooming in the second half of summer - only in spring. Plants of the first group bloom together, but not for long; in the second group, flowering is more extended.

All spirea are undemanding to the soil, light-loving, frost-resistant, many types are smoke and gas resistant, and tolerate city conditions well. They are easily propagated by dividing the bush, cuttings, layering, shoots and seeds. They grow quickly and bloom in the third year.

Spiraea Wangutta- Spiraea x vanhouttei (Briot) Zab. A hybrid between Cantonese spirea and three-lobed spirea (S. cantoniensis x S. trilobata).

It is stunning in its size. Its height and crown diameter reach 2 m. It is distinguished by spreading, arching branches that bend downward, forming a beautiful “cascade” crown shape. Leaves are up to 3.5 cm long, obovate, toothed, 3-5-lobed, dark green above, dull-gray below, glabrous. The flowers are pure white, in dense, numerous, hemispherical inflorescences, densely covering the entire shoot.

It blooms for several weeks, all the time enchanting the eye with the whiteness of its numerous flowers, under the weight of which the flexible branches bend almost to the base of the bush. This spirea sometimes blooms again in July-August, but not as abundantly as the first time. It is also beautiful with its foliage. The fruits ripen in October. Flowering time begins at three years of age

Spiraea Wangutta grows quickly, is relatively shade-tolerant, and unpretentious. Although it prefers sunny places and well-drained soils. Frost-resistant, sometimes only the ends of the shoots freeze, which should be cut off in the spring. Very effective in single plantings, low hedges, small groups, and when decorating large flower beds. It will fit well into a landscape with spruce, pine, and fir trees, especially on the banks of streams and ponds. It takes cuttings well. The rooting rate of cuttings without treatment is more than 90%. In culture since 1868.

Location: Meadowsweet grows best in sunny places.

The soil: turf or leaf soil, peat, sand (2:1:1). It grows more luxuriantly on rich soils than on poor ones.

Landing: in a hedge, the distance in rows is 0.4-0.5 m, between rows 0.3-0.4 m. In groups they are planted at a distance of 0.5-0.7 m, rarely about 1 m. The optimal planting time is September, in cloudy or rainy weather The size of the planting hole should be 25-30% larger than the size of the plant’s root system when planting. Planting depth 40-50 cm. Root collar at ground level. Requires drainage from broken bricks and sand. In early spring, they feed with Kemira station wagon at the rate of 100-120 g/sq.m.

Care: moderate watering. Young plantings are loosened when the soil is compacted from watering and when weeding. Mulch with peat after planting in a layer of 7 cm. All meadowsweet tolerate shearing well, so they are used for hedges and borders. After pruning, the crown is quickly restored.

The pruning method depends on the shoots of which year the inflorescences form. According to the place of formation of flower buds, spirea are divided into two groups.

To the first group - early flowering species(May - early June) - include spirea Wangutta, crenate, oakleaf , Nippon, sharp-serrated , average, gray, Thunberg. They form flower buds along almost the entire length of last year's shoots, so they cannot be pruned every year, since this will inevitably remove the flower buds and the plants will not bloom in the year of pruning.

To reduce the size of the bush and improve tillering, you can only slightly shorten the shoots. This group of species is characterized by the formation of numerous tillering shoots. Pruning spireas of this group comes down to the fact that after 7-14 years, outdated shoots are removed, and only the tips of frozen shoots are cut off annually. The bushes are heavily pruned to rejuvenate them. In this case, the entire bush is pruned to a stump, which gives a strong development of shoots from dormant buds located at the root collar. Then a bush is formed from the young shoots, leaving 5-6 of the strongest shoots, and the rest are removed during the first growing season. Every 1-2 years the bushes are thinned out, removing old and weak shoots. To form a bush, pruning is carried out in early spring(March, April). Sanitary pruning can also be done in summer.

To the second group - late flowering species(July - August) - include spirea Billard, birch leaf, Bumalda, Japanese, loosestrife, white, Douglas, white-flowered, in which inflorescences develop on young shoots of the current year, mainly at their ends. They need to be pruned annually in early spring, at the beginning of the plant awakening. The shoot is shortened to well-developed buds. Small shoots are removed completely. After severe pruning, more powerful shoots are formed. If aging shoots are not removed, then from the 4th year the top of the old shoot deviates towards the ground and gradually dries out. The entire stem lives for 6-7 years, but since the plant forms root shoots, it is generally durable. After the 4th year you can prune annually top part at a height of 30 cm from the ground. Periodically, bushes are cut down to stumps. In summer, the inflorescences are removed as they fade, so that the bushes do not become depleted during the formation of seeds. This group of spirea is less durable. If even after pruning the bushes develop weak growth and flowering deteriorates, they must be replaced with younger ones. Such a replacement must be made for late-flowering spirea species after 15-20 years.

The soil is fertilized in early spring after pruning, and in mid-June it is necessary to feed the plants themselves. Fertilizers for spirea are prepared as follows: pour 1 bucket of fresh slurry into 5-6 buckets of water, then add 5-10 g of superphosphate to 1 bucket of solution. To prevent the appearance of weeds, tree trunk circles are mulched with a layer of 6-8 cm. Small shavings and semi-rotten leaves are used as mulch.

Protection from diseases and pests:

Aphid (Aphis spiraephaga) sucks juices from leaves, young shoots and peduncles of spirea. It forms entire colonies: up to 30 aphids are found per 1 cm2. It causes particular harm from June to August.

Rose leaf miner (Agromyza spiracae) appears on the upper side of the leaves at the end of June. In the second half of July it goes into the soil.

Rose leaf roller (Archips rosana) damages leaves. She appears in late May - early June, when average temperature air will reach 13 °C. The caterpillars gather several leaves into a tube and gnaw them out. Typically, caterpillars damage 10-20% of leaves, sometimes up to 60%.

One of the serious pests of spirea is the common spider mite(Tetranychus urticae). Female mites overwinter under fallen leaves; in May they move to the underside of young leaves, weave webs and lay eggs. During the season, the spider mite produces 8-10 generations. There can be up to 300 individuals on one leaf. The affected leaves have whitish panicle-spots on the upper side. Leaves turn yellow prematurely, dry out and fall off. The main damage from ticks occurs in July - August, especially in dry summers.

Various measures must be used to control pests; agrotechnical, chemical and biological. Careful care of plants - timely feeding, watering, spraying the bushes with water in dry summer time gives good results.

To combat aphids at the beginning of the growing season, granular pyrimor is used. In April, a 5% preparation is applied to the soil to a depth of 2-5 cm, at a rate of 15 g/m

2 . Aphids, miner and roseate leaf roller are destroyed with pirimor (0.1%), actellik (0.1%), hostakvik (0.1%), kronefos (0.3%), fozalon (0.1-0.2%) , ethaphosomes (0.2%). The most effective way is to combine biological products with pesticides. In the fight against aphids and roseate leaf rollers, a mixture of 0.7% bitoxybacillin with 0.03% pyrimor gives 95-100% success.

In the fight against spider mites, good results are obtained by treating plants with phosphamide (0.15-0.2%), keltan (0.2%), fozalon (0.1-0.2%), metaphos, karbofos (0.2- 0.3%). Even more effective results are obtained with 0.2% acrex. Treatments should begin when the number of mites is 2-3 individuals per leaf.

In general, spirea are damaged very rarely and insignificantly, without losing their decorative effect.

Reproduction: seeds, spring and summer cuttings, layering. All types of spirea can be propagated by seeds, with the exception of those obtained as a result of hybridization. In the latter, seeds either do not form, or they turn out to be non-germinating, or they grow into plants that deviate in their characteristics towards one of the parent species. Therefore, species of hybrid origin are propagated only vegetatively - by cuttings or layering.

It is better to sow seeds in spring. Soil mixture: leaf soil or well-ventilated high-moor peat. Sow in boxes on a pre-moistened surface. Then the crops are mulched with a thin layer of peat or soil. Shoots will appear in 8-10 days, all together. The germination rate of spirea seeds usually exceeds 50%, and sometimes reaches 100%. To avoid fungal diseases, after the emergence of seedlings, treatment is carried out with potassium permanganate or foundationazole (20 g per 10 l) at the rate of 10 l of solution per 3 square meters. m.

In the first year of life, spirea grown from seeds produce one twisting, unbranched shoot. The root system consists of one tap root, several lateral roots extend from it. 2-3 months after the emergence of seedlings (and if the seedlings are small, then in the second year), it is advisable to pick the seedlings. It is best to do it in cloudy weather or in the evening. To do this, the seedlings are taken out of the ground, their roots are slightly shortened to stimulate tillering, then they are transplanted into a garden bed. The harvested seedlings are watered, loosened, and mulched. In the first year, the length of the seedling reaches only 5-10 cm. From the second year, growth accelerates significantly. The root system of spirea is shallow; when loosening the soil, this should be taken into account so as not to damage the roots.

In the second year, branching of the bush and root system begins. Usually in the 3-4th year the first flowering of plants obtained from seeds occurs. At this time (especially in dry areas), spirea should be watered more often, since a lack of moisture leads to fading of the color of the flowers, their drying out, underdevelopment and shedding of the ovaries.

Most meadowsweet propagates by green or semi-lignified cuttings at the end of intensive shoot growth. Spring flowering meadowsweet (sharp-toothed,

Wangutta ) cuttings are taken from the first half of June, late flowering (Bumalda, Japanese) -from the second half of June -in July. The best substrate: 1 hour of coarse-grained washed river sand and 1 hour of high-moor peat. A prerequisite for obtaining good cuttings - high humidity air (artificial fog or watering 4-5 times a day). Rooted cuttings emerge in the spring.

Cuttings of many types of spirea (white-flowered, densely flowered, low, medium, Nippon, plum-leaved, dwarf, willow-leaved, Wangutta) give over 70% rooting even without treatment with growth stimulants. Cuttings of sharp-toothed spirea give a lower percentage of rooting - about 30%. Cuttings of such types of spirea as birch-leaved and oak-leaved give 100% rooting when treated with a 0.01% solution of indolylbutyric acid (IBA) for 16 hours.

To propagate spirea by layering, the lower branches are bent to the ground in the spring, placed in a pre-prepared hole, pinched and covered with earth. For the winter, cover the shoot with dry leaves. By spring, the shoot takes root and can be planted in a permanent place.

Winter hardiness: Most of the recommended types of spirea are quite winter-hardy in the middle zone and even further north. Only in very severe winters do some species experience minor damage. Absolutely winter-hardy (even in harsh winters) are spirea such as medium, gray, low, three-lobed, and oak-leaved. In these spireas, under experimental freezing conditions, the flower buds are damaged only at a temperature of -50 °C.

In harsh winters, the shoots of last year's spirea white, birch-leaved, Bumald, densely flowered, sharp-toothed, and Emilia are somewhat damaged.

Spiraea such as willow leaf, Douglas, Vangutta, die at a temperature of - 45 - 50 ° C. However, such temperatures in middle lane is practically not observed, so the only technique to prevent their damage will be sufficient - tying the tops of the shoots into a bundle for the winter.

To fully guarantee successful wintering of spirea Nippon, Boumalda, white-flowered, Japanese, whose two-year-old shoots are damaged in severe winters, they are bent to the ground, the shoots are pinned and covered with a dry leaf with a layer of 10 - 15 cm.

Usage: spirea are decorative and differ in the shape and color of the foliage, the size and shape of the bush, the shape and color of the inflorescences. In addition, they bloom at different times, so a beautiful garden decoration can be created only from shrubs of this genus, knowing and skillfully selecting species based on these characteristics. Thanks to such knowledge, you can create a garden of continuous flowering, in which from May to September beautifully flowering bushes will be fragrant, the spring white color of which will be replaced by pink and crimson. Flowering begins with Spiraea sharp-toothed, gray and medium in May and ends with Spiraea tomentosa, which blooms until September.

Thanks to different shapes and the size of the shrubs, they can be used in various types of plantings. Thus, in single plantings, sharp-toothed spirea, Vangutta, medium, gray, white, and Douglas are indispensable. These are tall spirea often with very beautiful shape bush thanks to arched shoots.

Almost all types of spirea can be used in groups. In such cases, several specimens of the same species or variety are planted nearby.

Many not very tall spirea are used for edge planting around trees or more tall bushes. Various red-leaved or golden varieties of spirea look especially beautiful, framing ordinary green-leaved groups of trees and shrubs.

For low curbs Suitable species are birch-leaved, low, Bumalda, Japanese, white-flowered, and dwarf spirea. These same species can be used to create rockeries and planted on a hill. Dwarf spirea is also used as a ground cover plant. Thanks to the abundant formation of root shoots, it forms picturesque clumps.

In hedges that are taller than borders, taller species can be used: white spirea, Douglas spirea, willow spirea, Billiarda.

All spirea are good honey plants. Therefore, in areas where different types of spirea are collected, hives can be kept.

All types of spirea can be used for cutting into bouquets or arranging bouquets of other flowers.

Spiraea has high phytoncidal activity, which increases its sanitary and hygienic role in improving the environment.

There are plants that, when they appear on a site, immediately transform it. These include shrubs planted for decorative purposes - Spiraea Vangutta. No one remains indifferent to its abundant flowering.

Spiraea is a shrub plant belonging to the rose family.

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You've certainly seen the perfect lawn in a movie, on an alley, or perhaps on your neighbor's lawn. Those who have ever tried to grow a green area on their site will no doubt say that it is a huge amount of work. The lawn requires careful planting, care, fertilization, and watering. However, only inexperienced gardeners think this way; professionals have long known about the innovative product - liquid lawn AquaGrazz.

French “Snow White” in Russian spaces

Spiraea is a shrub plant belonging to the rose family. There are 90 species of spirea, one of the species is Vangutta. Since French breeders successfully crossed two well-known wild species of spirea, Cantonese and three-lobed, in 1968, the artificially created species has been decorating garden plots, city squares and boulevards in different parts of the world.

What is so attractive about this particular view?

First of all, its appeal is aesthetic. The shrub, reaching a height of up to two meters, has flexible spreading branches that are not visible during the flowering period: the inflorescences are so densely and densely arranged.

Shrub varieties have a variety of shapes:

  • pyramidal;
  • crying;
  • erect;
  • creeping;
  • hemispherical;
  • cascading.

The most common shape is spherical. This comparison is achieved due to the fact that the branches-twigs hang down to the ground on all sides of the trunk, forming a plant ball.

The leaves of the plant during the flowering period are usually green, although there are also unusual foliage colors: for example, the spirea Wangutta Gold Fontaine has yellow-light green leaves.


Spiraea blooms small flowers

At the end of flowering, in the fall, the shrub changes the color of the foliage: from green to orange, purple-red or yellow, but this does not spoil its appearance, which is especially spectacular in the fall.

Spiraea blooms with small flowers, but due to their abundance, almost the entire bush blooms during the flowering period. The traditional color of flowers is usually white (for example, the Snow White variety), but there are also shrubs of a different color (Pink Ice variety).

Important! For lush flowering Spiraea Wangutta needs a sufficient amount of sunlight. In shady places the shrub will grow just as well as in the sun, but it will bloom less profusely.

Depending on the variety, flowering of the bush occurs in one of two periods:

  • spring - flowering on last year's shoots. Varieties spring bloom have a predominantly white color, bloom together, but have a short flowering period;
  • summer-autumn - flowering on new shoots. The color of these varieties is pink, crimson, red, and they bloom for a long time.


Any variety of Wangutta's spirea will suit the most different areas and will please their owners

Flowering of the Wangutta spirea begins in the second or third year after planting.

Landscape designers choose Wangutta

Experts know how impressive it can look selection variety Location on:

  • Decorative hedge. Spiraea Wangutta, used as a hedge, will protect the garden or country cottage area from the street and at the same time will become its decoration;
  • On the shore of an artificial reservoir, the plant is used as a willow substitute.
  • A lonely growing spirea bush of this species looks great on a lawn or flowerbed.

Both professionals and amateur gardeners are convinced: any variety of Wangutta spirea will suit a wide variety of areas and will bring pleasure to their owners.

We plant Spiraea Wangutta

It is not difficult to grow a beautiful ornamental shrub even for a gardener with little experience, if planting and care are carried out taking into account the advice of experts.

The best place for Wangutta spirea is a well-lit slope or hill with light soil, without stagnant groundwater.

Landing

In the Wangutta spirea, planting corresponds to the flowering period of a particular variety:

  • in the fall, after the leaves have completely fallen, varieties that bloom in spring are planted;
  • In the spring, varieties are planted that bloom in summer-autumn.

At any time of the year, only leafless plants are replanted, before the leaves bloom or after they fall.

Important: when planting, you should prepare the seedling: shorten the branches by a third, trim the roots, remove areas affected by fungal disease.


Gorgeous spirea shrub

The finished seedling must maintain the proportions of the volume of the root system and the ground part. If necessary, thin out the heavily overgrown root system; if the rhizome is weak, to maintain proportions, cut off excess branches.
If the seedling has a closed root system, before planting it is advisable to soak the roots in water for several hours or pour a generous amount of soil on it.

Planting stages

  • Prepare a spacious planting pit (the volume of the pit should be 20-25% greater than the volume of the seedling’s rhizomes);
  • Single plantings: depth and diameter of the hole - from 50 cm;
  • Group plantings: distance between seedlings from 0.7 to 1.5 m;
  • Fence: seedlings are placed at a distance of 0.5 m from each other.

Before planting, fill the hole with drainage mixture (7-20 cm). To do this, combine sand, gravel and pebbles, as well as mixed earth, sand, peat in equal parts.

  • Plant the seedling by placing the root collar slightly lower than the soil level.
  • Compact the hole by trampling down so that the soil level is level with the root collar.
  • Water the plant generously.

Trimming


Bush fence

To rejuvenate and give the bush shape, pruning of the plant is systematically used.

Important: pruning is done at least 2 years after planting the shrub.

The shrub itself tells you that it needs pruning: the branches become bare and partially dry out, the flowers become small.

The timing of pruning of different varieties correlates with the timing of flowering.

Types of pruning:

  • stump pruning;
  • cutting out individual branches. In this case, dry, diseased, old branches are removed.

Reproduction

You can plant spirea Wangutta using several methods:

  • layering. Propagation is carried out in the spring by digging a branch located at the bottom of the plant. Next spring, the shoot that has overwintered under dry foliage can be replanted;
  • cuttings. Harvesting cuttings begins in the summer; after rooting, abundant watering is required (several times a day). Cuttings are planted in the spring;
  • seeds. Seeds are sown in spring in flower containers or greenhouses. Shoots appear after 10 days. Picking seedlings can begin after 2-3 months.

Important: seed propagation rarely used. This is due to the poor germination of spirea Wangutta seeds. If you decide to use this method, use only fresh seeds


The shrub responds well to mulching after planting

Care

This beautiful plant attracts gardeners because it requires little special care.

  • grows on any soil;
  • frost-resistant and drought-resistant;
  • needs fertilizing only on poor soils;
  • Requires even watering as the soil dries.

Important: if the seedlings were planted in the fall, they must be covered for the winter, despite the frost resistance of the adult plant.

The shrub responds well to mulching after planting. Peat is used for this. The optimal mulching depth is 7 cm.

Top dressing

Spiraea Vangutta does not require special feeding. It is done no more than once per season (usually in spring) with complex mineral fertilizer. For better effects, rotted manure is added to the warm solution of mineral fertilizer.

For better flowering You can use double superphosphate, which is added to the soil, making it more nutritious.

Diseases, pests and their control


In addition to aesthetic pleasure, this unique shrub has beneficial properties.

The main damage to Spiraea Wangutta is caused by spider mites, aphids, pink leaf roller, and multicolored leaf miner.

To combat them they are used traditional ways, known to gardeners:

  • biological;
  • chemical (special preparations);
  • agrotechnical (weeding, timely watering and water spraying).

In some cases, an outbreak of fungal infection occurs on plants. The reason for its spread is waterlogging of the soil. Fungicides are used for treatment, as well as watering regulation.

Benefits of shrubs

In addition to aesthetic pleasure, the peculiar shrub has useful properties:

  • honey production. During the flowering period, the shrub is a good honey plant and has a bright sweetish aroma that attracts bees. Placing hives in areas with Wangutta spirea plantings is very effective;


The beautiful meadowsweet (also known as spirea) has been known to people for a very long time, but the high decorative value of this shrub was appreciated only with the advent of landscape design. Gardeners take care of maintaining the lushness of the bush and the luxurious flowering of spirea in the fall, by pruning and providing care in preparation for winter. But not every gardener knows that the cutting technique various types meadowsweet is very different. We will help you understand the nuances of caring for this spectacular plant.

Varieties of spirea

The genus Spiraea is part of the Rosaceae family and includes over 80 species of ornamental deciduous shrubs. The average height of the crop is 90–170 cm, the crown circumference reaches 2.5 m. The openwork crown is made up of thin shoots that bend under the mass of inflorescences almost to the ground. Therefore, spirea is often compared to a snow-white fountain. The first flowering occurs in the 3-4th year of the growing season and is limited to the appearance of individual inflorescences. In subsequent years, the shrub tirelessly pleases gardeners with its splendor. The plant can act as a spectacular soloist or join a group. Due to their hardiness, unpretentiousness, and resistance to dust, spirea are often used as hedges.

If you choose the right cultivars according to flowering time, you can achieve continuity of this process for 3-3.5 months.

The timing and features of pruning shrubs directly depend on its variety. All types of spirea are usually divided according to flowering time into spring-blooming and summer-blooming. Let's look at the main representatives of these groups.

Early flowering (spring) species of meadowsweet

Snow-white flowers with a yellow core and incredibly long stamens are a characteristic characteristic of early-blooming spirea. Dense corymbose or umbrella-shaped inflorescences densely cling to thin shoots, causing them to bend to the ground. The appearance of “snow” on the branches occurs at the end of spring or beginning of summer. Flower buds are formed on last year's shoots and are located along the entire length of the branches. The May “snow storm” lasts only 2-3 weeks, fills the garden with fragrance, attracting a lot of pollinators.

The following spring types of spirea are most often found in cultivation:

  • Wangutta;
  • Nippon;
  • Thunberg;
  • oakleaf;
  • Gray;
  • Arguta;
  • Average;
  • Gorodchataya.

They differ slightly in height, shape of crown and leaves, size of flowers and inflorescences. Some representatives have a snow-white color, others have a cream color. Nippon spirea dresses up in a crimson dress in autumn, and Vangutta burns with an orange flame.

The listed varieties are light-loving, but tolerate light shading. Spiraea are capable of growing in spartan conditions, but without proper pruning and periodic rejuvenation, they first grow and look sloppy, and then begin to wither and lose their decorative effect.

Summer-blooming spirea

Representatives of this group bloom throughout the summer. They are characterized by bright, rich colors of inflorescences - pink, reddish, purple. Inflorescences are formed on the current year's growths and have the shape of panicles or large corymbs.

Summer-flowering spirea include the following species:

  • Birch leaf;
  • Billard;
  • Felt;
  • Willow;
  • Dwarf;
  • Boumalda;
  • Douglas;
  • Densely flowered.

Like their spring sisters, summer-blooming spirea are unpretentious, light-loving, and can withstand gas pollution. The listed crops will fit perfectly into the design of any garden and will decorate a garden bed or mixborder. Gardeners are especially attracted to the Japanese spirea, on the basis of which the mass is obtained beautiful varieties and decorative variegated forms. Cultivars of Japanese meadowsweet can be easily shaped and used to create garden sculptures.

Types and timing of shrub pruning

Throughout the growing season, meadowsweet must be periodically pruned. This plant is so plastic that it can be easily shaped, and reacts very positively to pruning, throwing out more powerful shoots and forming large quantity inflorescences. Thanks to shearing, it is possible to achieve an increase in the decorative value of the crop, because meadowsweet is a fast-growing species. It produces a lot of root shoots and shoots, so without timely trimming it will become a sloppy bush.

Depending on the goals pursued, spirea pruning is divided into the following types:

  • sanitizing;
  • stimulating;
  • formative;
  • rejuvenating.

Meadowsweet shoots are short-lived and after 1-2 years they begin to dry out. If you leave them on the bush, the branches will become a haven for pests and a breeding ground for fungal spores. Some types of shrubs do not tolerate frost very well; the tips of the branches freeze slightly. To protect the crop from diseases and restore its decorative appearance, gardeners remove diseased, dry, broken branches throughout the growing season. Frozen shoots are cut out in the spring before the buds open.

Stimulating haircut is used for early flowering meadowsweet over 3-4 years old. By removing weak shoots, branching is stimulated and flowering is enhanced. This approach will improve illumination and ventilation of the crown, which will have a beneficial effect on the health of the crop. Stimulating haircut is carried out in early autumn.

The formation of shrubs is usually done in spring or autumn. Autumn period Gardeners are less busy with work, so the spirea crown is most often formed in the fall.

A shaping haircut can be moderate or dramatic. In the first case, the silhouette of the bush is simply slightly adjusted, in the second, so many branches are cut off so that the crop takes the desired shape.

Plants older than 15 years will need anti-aging pruning. From this age, biological aging begins, the bush gradually loses its attractiveness. Autumn pruning performed 2-3 weeks before frost, so that the wounds have time to heal.

Pruning early flowering spireas

Early flowering spirea tend to grow large quantity shoots, therefore they require mandatory removal of part of the shoots. If the bush grows alone, gardeners recommend creating a strong skeleton by removing weak shoots. In autumn, cut off a quarter of the shoots at soil level. Over the next season, the bush will expel new young branches.

Early flowering species are pruned after the inflorescences wither, in mid-summer, but more often the event is postponed until autumn, when the crown is clearly visible. You can’t be overzealous with cutting, because the flower buds have already been laid, so gardeners cut off only a third of the annual growth. This stimulates tillering and enhances flowering. Unbranched branches, which are often observed in spirea gray Grefsheim and Vangutta (hybrids), are cut in half, and a third of the growth is cut off at each fork.

In spring, pruning is not carried out so as not to lose some of the inflorescences. Only the frozen tips and branches broken by snow are removed.

Pruning spirea blooming in summer

Summer-flowering varieties of shrubs respond well to pruning. The more shoots are removed, the more intensively the green mass grows. Haircuts are carried out every autumn, starting at the age of 3–4 years. Be sure to cut out all weak growth at the level of the root collar. In autumn or early spring, trim the branches, leaving 2-3 developed buds above the woody part.

Stimulating pruning consists of complete removal of vegetation at a height of 30 cm. The event is carried out in early spring to stimulate tillering. Spiraea, which is cared for according to all the rules, will recover very quickly and will delight abundant flowering already this season.

Pruning after planting, replanting, dividing the bush

Planting and replanting of ornamental shrubs is carried out in the fall. At the same time, it is customary to divide bushes that are 3–4 years old to obtain new specimens. To facilitate the adaptation of the bush in a new place, planting work is combined with pruning.

The work is carried out in early autumn, as soon as there is a change in the color of the foliage. Choose a cloudy or rainy day and follow the following algorithm.

  1. Remove the bush from the soil, having first dug it around the perimeter of half the crown projection.
  2. Rinse the roots thoroughly, divide into several parts so that the division has renewal buds, shoots and a developed network of roots.
  3. In advance (3-4 days in advance), arrange a planting hole with a diameter and depth of 40-50 cm.
  4. Fill the hole with drainage made of broken bricks or crushed stone to a height of 15 cm.
  5. Prepare a peat substrate leaf soil and coarse sand (1:2:1), fill a third of the hole with it.
  6. Place the cutting, seedling or transplanted plant in the hole, add soil so that the root collar is level with the surface of the earth.
  7. Compact the substrate a little, water and mulch with peat chips.
  8. Remove all weak and damaged branches.
  9. Shorten the skeletal shoots to the level of mature wood.
  10. If the bush has old shoots, remove them immediately, since in the spring they will die anyway and attract pests.

The distance between bushes for solo planting should be at least 1.5 m, for group planting - 70-80 cm. If you plan to plant a hedge, reduce the step between specimens to half a meter.

How to rejuvenate a bush?

Mature specimens over 15 years old require anti-aging pruning. The event is held in the fall by complete removal the above-ground part of the bush at the level of the root collar. The same scheme is used for a plant that has been severely damaged by pests. After such a drastic intervention, summer-flowering varieties will bloom next season, and spring varieties only a year later.

Do not leave stumps after cutting. Young thin and weak branches will grow from the dormant buds on the pruning in the spring.

Hedge modeling

Spiraea hedge - perfect solution For garden plot. It will protect your property from dust and exhaust gases, serve as decoration and a screen from prying eyes, without causing strong shading.

After adjusting the shape of the hedge in autumn, be sure to apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizer and mulch the soil. This measure stimulates the healing of wounds and will help prepare for winter.

Systematic trimming of hedges allows you to:

  • achieve density by stimulating shoot branching;
  • give the plant fence compactness, a certain silhouette, height and shape;
  • maintain the health of the hedge by improving ventilation and lighting of the bushes.

Hedge modeling begins a year after planting. Young bushes are pruned, removing a third of the annual growth. After 2-3 years, you can cut off up to half of each branch to maintain the shape of the green fence. As it ages, periodically trim off drying branches inside the crown.

Low pruning of an old fence will lead to the risk of drying out or freezing, since old bushes have an increased tendency to expose the root collar.

Preparing spirea for winter

Autumn care for spirea necessarily includes preparation for the dormant period. Young animals are wrapped up for the winter to avoid freezing. To do this, the branches are loosely tied together with twine and wrapped in covering material. In harsh climates, it is better to build an air-dry shelter.

The root system of spirea lies close to the soil surface, so it is better to insulate even adult bushes. Cover the root collar with a 10–15 cm thick layer of leaf or peat mulch.

With proper care, including systematic pruning and rejuvenation, the ornamental spirea shrub will decorate the garden for 20-25 years. Since spring work takes a lot of time from gardeners, it is convenient to postpone caring for lush bushes until the fall.

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