Various types of cutters for lining, and methods for making panels. Milling cutters for lining - creating a production line

garden equipment 23.06.2020
garden equipment

Wooden lining - a thin cladding board with special cutouts that ensure ease of installation, which is used stably in high demand on the market.

This is a universal material, with its help you can create refined interior, veneer outer wall. The tree is completely harmless, lining is suitable even for a children's room. Planks of any shape can be bought at a hardware store, or you can make it yourself, for this you will need a machine for making lining, material and, of course, desire.

Is it worth buying

It is not difficult to buy lining. There are various types of it on sale, they differ in the wood used, color, texture, shape of the outer surface, so you can choose the material that is ideal for any project. With all this, the lining has a significant drawback - the high price.

When starting a major renovation, it would be useful to consider the option self-manufacturing lining. It is worth noting that even the simplest machine of this type will have a high price, and before deciding to purchase, it is necessary to evaluate its profitability.

Do you need a similar machine in your home workshop or not - it's up to the master himself, you can only give a few arguments in favor of the purchase:

  • the production of lining in a home workshop will significantly save on building material;
  • hand-made products will be obviously of a higher quality than similar ones that go on sale;
  • the machine can become a source of additional income due to the tangible difference in price between edged board and finished lining.

Also, we must not forget that this machine is multifunctional. The scope of its application is not limited to the production of lining. With it, you can make a number of other profiled wood products, among others: trim, skirting boards, curly slats for all kinds of frames.

The principle of the machine

The manufacturing process of lining includes processing the workpiece from four sides. First of all, the board passes circular saws that create smooth edges. Next, the thickness gauge calibrates the workpiece. The last step is milling, as a result of which chamfers and connection elements (thorn and groove) are formed.

In principle, all these actions can be performed on different machines, but this is inefficient. It is much more reasonable to use one machine, which will allow you to get a completely finished product at the output, moreover, in one pass.

The operation of this machine is possible due to the simultaneous installation of several (from 4 to 7) spindles on one tabletop. By adjusting the distance between the saws, it is easy to mark geometric dimensions of the resulting board, changing the milling cutters - to flexibly adjust the profile of the product.

On the manufacturing enterprises use powerful machines with working surfaces up to 12 m, for the manufacture of lining at home, you can choose portable device. At the same time, the power of a small household machine more than enough for the needs of the current repair.

Components of a homemade machine

The machine for the production of lining can be made independently, but it must be borne in mind that it has a complex design. You can take on such work only if you have experience and relevant knowledge.

Blueprints simple machine for a home workshop is easy to find on the Internet. Structurally, it consists of several main devices assembled on a common frame.

bed

The skeleton of the machine is a massive steel structure, which ensures the stability and reliability of fastening of all components and assemblies. The frame must be stationary, for this its center of gravity is located as low as possible. The components of the frame are interconnected by welding.

table top

The best material for a homemade machine table is a polished steel plate. Technological holes are made in it for the exit of the cutting tool, stops are installed on it. The tabletop is made narrow and elongated in length, its task is to support the workpiece during processing.

For a small machine, the tabletop can also be made from sheet materials based on wood. Suitable laminated boards or thick plywood. It is best to beat such a structure with metal or paste over with durable plastic.

Engine

All rotating devices are powered by an electric motor. Even for a small machine, its power should exceed 2 kW. The transmission of rotation is carried out using belts. For the effective operation of various cutting devices, you need different speed rotation, this is achieved by using pulleys of different diameters.

Clamping mechanism

The task of this mechanism is to accurately orient the workpiece and hold it during processing. It is implemented by a set of rollers fixed on the tabletop. They are made removable, which allows the machine to be used for the manufacture of boards of various widths.

Cutting tool

Circular saws and milling cutters form the profile of the product at the exit. The quality of the resulting lining depends primarily on the quality of this node. By changing the cutting tool and its parameters, it is possible to adjust the machine for the production of various products.

By creating homemade machine important to ensure the safety of its operation. All rotating parts must be covered with metal covers. The on/off unit must be located in close proximity to the operator. The off button must be red, easy to press and in no case be recessed into the body of the switch.

Lining with a circular

Often a situation arises when it is not the aesthetics of the material that comes to the fore, but only its practicality, for example, it is necessary to finish the walls or ceiling of a utility room, cellar, workshop. For these purposes, a simple and reliable lining made by hand on a circular is perfect.

The first step is to prepare the lumber. You will need boards 15-20 mm thick, 8-10 cm wide. It is reasonable to assume that the wider the board, the less it will be needed, the faster the work will be done. This is true, but only in part. A large width plus a primitive connection, the grooves for which can be made with a circular, are guaranteed to lead to warping of the board, thereby fragility of the coating.

Workpieces must be aligned in width. For this side stop circular saw set with a ruler, fix. Each board is processed in turn, the width is adjusted to a single value.

Note! In the process of work, you should carefully inspect the workpieces. You should not try to make a lining from a board in which there are a lot of knots, or there are few of them, but they are large. At home, they definitely cannot be fixed, they will soon fall out.

After the boards are leveled, they are cycled. Best suited for this planer, but factory circulars can also perform this function. Of course, you can process the board with a manual or electric planer.

Next, you need to create a groove and a spike for fastening the lining. The easiest way is to make mirror samples at opposite ends of the board. Their accuracy and symmetry is achieved by adjusting the height of the disc exit and the distance from the saw to the stop.

With a board thickness of 20 mm, the output of the disc should be 10 mm, the distance to the ruler is also 10 mm. The first pass is made flat. Pressing the board to the side stop, make a groove in it for half the thickness. Next, the board is placed on the edge, repeat the operation. The same steps, but mirror reflection perform from the other end.

As a result of the described actions, a rough version of the lining is obtained, which is easy to mount, it creates an attractive flat surface.

Using a milling machine

Availability milling machine on wood will allow you to make a lining of a sufficiently high quality. It can be safely faced not only utility rooms, but also living rooms. Using milling cutters of various configurations, you can make any type of lining with your own hands, including eurolining, which is in special demand.

Eurolining advantages:

  • more reliable connection;
  • cuts on the reverse side, allowing the coating to breathe;
  • an abundance of profiles that allow you to create a unique surface;
  • high durability.

Before starting work, you need to prepare the material. Boards should be even and smooth. Blanks with knots on the side faces are immediately rejected - there is a high probability that they will fly out during the milling process. Also discarded boards with darkening, longitudinal cracks, having a visible curvature.

The best milling tool for making lining is a machine with a vertical spindle. A cutter is put on it for making a groove with the simultaneous removal of a decorative chamfer. The cutting tool is set depending on the required processing depth and is securely fixed.

It will be more convenient to work if the machine is improved a little, namely, to install several metal rollers on the tabletop, which will fix the rail, adjusting the processing depth, allowing it to move progressively along the knife.

Note! Before undertaking the manufacture of lining, it is worth testing the machine. To do this, you need to cut a short rail, check it and, if the result suits you, go directly to work.

After one side is processed, the cutter is changed. It is convenient to work with a type-setting tool, cutters assembled from several knives. By changing the configuration of the cutting edge, it is possible to produce different kinds lining.

You can also make grooves on the inside of the lining, for this, the workpiece is placed on the edge, pressed with the help of rollers.

lumber requirements

It is possible to make high-quality lining only from the appropriate lumber. There are several rules about this:

  • it is better to take wood from the bottom of the tree. It has a good texture, it has fewer knots;
  • the workpiece must be even and smooth. The presence of cracks, rot, traces of bark beetle activity is not allowed;
  • the boards from which the lining will be made must be dried, humidity is allowed no more than 12-16%. Otherwise, the lining can lead, and one low-quality board will easily ruin the entire wall.

The type of wood is selected depending on the purpose of the lining. For work, they use the most different wood, most often it is pine, cedar, larch, oak, ash.

Wood is considered the most popular conifers. It is perfect for both interior decoration as well as for external walls. Indoors, it creates a special comfort, filling the air with a barely perceptible resinous aroma.

Linden, due to its softness and suppleness, allows you to make lining of the most complex profile. Oak and larch have excellent consumer characteristics and high durability. Their only drawback is the complexity of processing, it is necessary to use cutters made of hard alloys.

Room decoration wooden clapboard This is a modernized classic. Refined and human-friendly interiors, beautiful and functional exterior - all this can be done by yourself. A mini-machine for the production of lining will save on building material, and a full-fledged stationary one will help you make good money.

Sheathing with wooden clapboard is the classic way residential decoration and external walls low-rise buildings. It is manufactured industrially if in-line and mass production is necessary, for example, for sale in a building materials store. At the same time, there is alternative way production by manual milling of a semi-finished product - edged lumber.

The last phrase is the key here, since in both cases a special cutting tool is used. This is a cutter, and to be precise in the definition of concepts, it is equipped with machines and equipment that are used to select grooves and form a decorative profile on a workpiece. The manual method of production is always preferable if you need a small amount of lining. In this case, money is saved significantly, and, importantly, your own ideas are realized, there is always the opportunity to choose an individual option.

Milling cutters suitable for the manufacture of lining with a manual milling cutter

Regardless of the class of instrument, i.e. professional or amateur hand tool, it uses exclusively the end type of milling cutters. At one of its ends there is a collet (shank) with a diameter of 8 or 12 mm for a rigid grip with a chuck, and at the other end there is directly a profile cutter up to 50 mm wide. The quality of manufacture of the cutters themselves and the service life of the cutting tool depends primarily on the steel grade of the cutter and on the manufacturer. Models famous brands are always equipped with only durable grades of tool steel.

Important! When worn, the cutting part of the cutters in most cases is subject to regrinding, but not more than four times. Cutters and failed bearings are sold in specialized stores.

All cutters for sampling wood are usually divided into two main groups: edge and groove. They are sold both separately and as part of sets. Edge cutters are easy to distinguish from others by characteristic feature- the presence of a bearing in front of the cutter. There are universal milling cutters - it is useful to keep this in mind for the same type of operations - for example, in the case of making lining. They cost slightly more than single models, but allow you to save more production time by reducing the number of passes.

Do-it-yourself eurolining production with a manual milling cutter

Before starting work, you need to stock up necessary quantity blanks. Depending on the selected thickness of the workpiece, a groove and seam cutter is selected, or the required size is set between the cutters in the combined cutter. All machined edges of the workpieces must be even in plane so that the groove and ridge clearly fit together.

Advice. Provide optimal and comfortable conditions work on a manual milling machine will help right choice speed mode. The more, by design and possibility, the depth of the tenon (groove) and the diameter of the cutter, the lower the speed should be. They are easy to adjust on the tool during a test pass. You should also pay attention to the density of the material. On the packaging and documentation for the operation of milling equipment there are instructions in this regard.

All manual routers provide surface treatment of the material with the cutting tool down. Unlike the machine, the workpiece remains stationary, and the cutter is fed for processing, manually taking into account the nature of the milling work profile.

The manufacture of lining is best done using the guide ruler of the milling cutter, which eliminates possible deviations along the planes of the processed edge (end of the board). Usually, a groove is made first, and then a spike is selected. The sequence of operations when milling the lining blanks should be as follows:

  1. We fix the workpiece on the workbench using clamps or self-tapping screws along the edges.
  2. We install the desired cutter in the milling cutter and adjust the height of its penetration.
  3. We turn on the router and make a test run.

These operations are the same for both types of operations. If you have a universal router bit, you won't need to reconfigure the router bit on your router. Another thing is if the width of the planned groove cannot be made in one pass of the cutter. Combined milling cutters for the manufacture of lining are usually sold in pairs, for grooves and tenons, respectively.

The spiked (protruding part) on the other side of the workpiece is performed in one pass with a combined cutter. However, to give your lining a stylized look, for example, with an imitation of a beam or some special profile, it is better to use separate fold cutters with a curly profile. Often the edges of the spikes and grooves of the lining have a rounded shape or a figured cutout.

Important! Try to drive the router in one direction when making contact with the wood, otherwise you risk burning the cutter. ahead of time the intended warranty operation. The groove must be deeper than the working length of the lining spike. This gap carries a compensatory load with increasing humidity, especially when outdoor decoration clapboard.

Conclusion

The use of a manual milling cutter in the manufacture of lining is a great option for home master. The quality of the final product, with proper use of equipment, is in no way inferior to industrial designs, but in some ways it will be superior in terms of decoration. For more accurate processing of edges on workpieces, purchase branded cutters, including well-known Chinese companies.

On the market, it provides truly limitless opportunities for creativity and expression of emotions in wood, stone, and even in creating furniture for home and family, because without this tool it is difficult to do anything worthwhile.

In the age of advanced milling technology, there are a great many, it is hardly possible to describe all their diversity, in this article we will touch on the most popular requests.

What are the types of milling cutters for lining on a manual milling cutter?

To understand this issue, you need to understand what lining is. It differs in appearance (profile) and material.

Of course, everything is made of wood, but the dimensions and moisture content of the wood are different, since eurolining is made according to DIN 68126, and the domestic version, in everyday life, lining, according to GOST 8242-88. The photo shows the variety of board processing.

various configurations of the appearance of the lining

That is, the lining is, in fact, a high-quality processed board, which, no matter what the external contour is on it, has a groove and tongue for joining the boards to each other.

Tool with two discs for sheet pile

And consequently, cutters for the manufacture of tongues and grooves of lining have strictly defined dimensions and appearance. In the first photo, a sample for making a tongue, in the second for making a groove.

also double-disk, but for cutting a groove

The cutters are made in two versions, with a shank of 8 mm and 12 mm for the ability to work with them on cutters of different capacities. They consist of two disks with knives, a bearing between them and an axle with a fixing nut. Knives are made of carbide material VK8, which can be sharpened independently up to 4 times. Got it sorted out.

For stone work

There are a lot of cutters for processing artificial stone, it all depends on the specific operation performed when working with the surface, profile, radius, overrunning or intended for inlay.

They are made of carbide material brazed to a steel base, but there are more expensive options, for example, collapsible interchangeable knives or diamond plating.

Since the imagination of a person is unlimited, the shaping cutter is very diverse and constantly improves its forms. The leader in the production of various cutters, including artificial stone is the company CERATIZIT.

diamond cutters for stone work

Diamond cutters are sintered and electrogalvanized. In sintered, several layers of diamond grit are baked, which increases the tool life due to the wear of one layer and the development of the next, exposing new diamond grains. This tool requires careful maintenance. Since the grains are reliably sintered together, the cleaning of such cutters is carried out with an abrasive bar, which has an extremely negative effect on conventional diamond tools.

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At industrial production lining, powerful woodworking machines are used, which make it possible to obtain products of excellent quality, but not all users can afford it. Is it possible to make a lining on your own and what is needed for this? We will talk about this in this article.

Lining - what kind of material is it

You will need this knowledge in order to independently take optimal solutions during the manufacture of lining at home. Process industrial production lining consists of several stages.


That's the whole technology, there is nothing complicated, modern equipment allows you to automate production to the maximum. At home, this cannot be achieved, you will have to spend much more time to make distillation.

Table. Lining classes and their description.

class or gradeDescription

No cracks, knots or other defects. The surface is perfectly smooth and even.

The surface is smooth or slightly rough. There are 1 healthy bitch for 1 running meter(knot diameter not more than 1.5 cm). There may be cracks: hairline - no more than ½ of the panel long, non-through - less than 9.5 cm long (the exit of cracks is directed to the end of the panel), which appeared during drying - no more than the width of the panel. There can be pitchers and resin pockets of 2 pcs. at 1 m p.

A lot of knots, of which there can be no more than 2 pieces falling out. per 1 meter. Can be through cracks up to 1 mm wide and up to 15-30 cm long, hairline cracks are allowed along the entire length of the board. The presence of wormholes (3 pcs per 1 meter) and rot (no more than 1/10 of the panel) is allowed. Grade B lining is suitable for painting.

The quality is low. Lots of different defects. This lining is suitable for upholstery technical premises or draft work.

Prices for lining

List of minimum set of tools and equipment

First of all, you must have a special separate room for the production of work, woodworking machines create a lot of noise and dust. You will have to comply with the requirements of the sanitary authorities. Another condition is that the electrical wiring must withstand additional loads, and they, depending on the brand of machines and their number, can increase significantly.

On a note! With your own hands, you can make both the simplest and rather complex lining, we will consider both manufacturing options. But there are a few prerequisites for all options.

General requirements

On what machines and no matter how difficult you try to make lining, you must comply with the following requirements.

  1. lumber quality. Boards should only be edged, with the same thickness and width. Wide planes must be passed through the thickness gauge from at least one, and preferably from two sides. For these purposes, it is better to have a double-sided thicknesser at home, and if not, then at least an elementary planer.

If there are no such machines, then you can work with a manual electric planer. These works are quite difficult and long, and the quality will always be much lower than during the processing of lumber on machines.

Practical advice! We strongly recommend that you do not plan boards with a manual electric planer. It is much more profitable to take the lumber to a friend who has a double-sided thicknesser, in an hour or two of work you will miss 1-2 m 3 of boards - this amount is enough to finish a small village house. You will have to plan them manually for more than one day, while, as we have already mentioned, there will be no quality. Such lining can only be used for finishing auxiliary premises.


What machines and equipment are needed for the manufacture of do-it-yourself lining, we will tell in the course of the article. The point is that there is a large number of technologies, taking into account existing machines, it is impossible to describe everything in one article. Let's start with the manufacture of the simplest lining - such work is available to most inexperienced craftsmen.

Price for a model range of jointers

This is the simplest version of the circular saw, others have additional calipers for fixing other woodworking mechanisms, which greatly expands their capabilities.

Step 1. Prepare lumber, decide on their quantity. For work, you will need boards about 15–20 mm thick and up to 10 cm wide, planed on both sides. You don’t need to do it wider, this is due to the fact that the lining has the most elementary profile, and it cannot guarantee the absence of warpage during operation. The lining will be connected in a quarter, and such a lock cannot completely eliminate warping. The wider the lining, the greater value may have warping, in this regard, it is not recommended to make it more than 8 cm.

Step 2 take away workplace. Workpieces should be located on one side of the saw, finished goods need to be stored with another.

Important! Nothing should get in your way under your feet, all attention will be paid to the working saw, there is no time to look under your feet - this increases the risk of injury. If the boards are longer than a meter, then do not work on your own, because it is difficult and very dangerous. In addition, the risks of serious injury increase significantly, and the amount of waste increases. The fact is that you will not be able to press it normally against the ruler at the exit of the board from the cutter, the linearity of milling is violated at the ends.

Step 3 Trim all the boards in length, inspect their surfaces. If there are black rotten loose knots, discard the lumber. At home, such knots cannot be processed, they will definitely fall out.

When storing blanks, pay attention to the location of the fibers, especially carefully monitor the location of defects in the development of wood. Loose areas are very difficult to process. Position the boards so that the grain is in the direction of rotation of the cutting tool, otherwise the surface finish will be unsatisfactory. On industrial machines, such problems almost do not arise, they work at high speeds, have at least four knives on one head, mechanical clamps eliminate the possibility of the board swaying during processing. Due to this, cutting conditions are observed perfectly, the quality of processing complex surfaces is significantly improved.

Important! Never remove the guard and wedge from the saw. They are not needed to keep sawdust flying into the eyes, as inexperienced carpenters think. Their main purpose is to prevent the board from hitting back, with such a departure it can pierce the abdominal cavity.

Step 4 Pull out the circular saw. If the width of the boards is not the same, then you first need to align them. To do this, set the saw ruler at the desired distance from the teeth and fasten it firmly. Make sure the line is parallel saw, it is very important. Factory machines have special marks, for home-made ones you will have to use a square. Checking the correctness of the position is done empirically. Take a small piece of board and saw through it, check the width and parallelism of the ruler. Repeat the installation if necessary.

Step 5 A simple lining has a quarter connection, it can be made on an ordinary circular.

To do this, you need to adjust the height of the saw table and its distance from the ruler. How it's done? To simplify the example, let's take a board thickness of 20 mm. Accordingly, the quarter will be 10 × 10 mm.

  1. Release the ruler holder and slide it towards the saw. The distance between them should be 10 mm, carefully monitor the parallelism of the planes. Fix the ruler and check the correct installation. To do this, use any segments, skip a few for the test.
  2. Adjust the position of the circular table so that the saw teeth at the maximum point are at a height of 10 mm.

After adjustment, your saw height and its distance to the ruler should be 10 mm. If the boards have other parameters, then the distances must be adjusted in accordance with them.

Step 6 Start making the connection at a quarter. The first pass - the board is flat, side surface tightly pressed against the line. After completion, the board has a cut along the entire length.

Important! Do not press the boards near the saw with your hand, use wooden block. So that it does not slip off the end of the board, saw through a recess - it should simultaneously rest against the board from above and against the end. butt long board never rest on your stomach, hold it only with your hands, and the body should be located on the side.

Step 7 Set the board on edge, the cut should be on the side of the ruler, cut out a quarter. Immediately remove the cut rail from the table, do not litter the workplace.

Step 8 Rotate the board 180° and repeat the operation on the other side. The lining should have a mirror arrangement of quarters. If on one side the recess is located on top, then on the opposite side it should be on the bottom. During the installation of the lining, the joints overlap and close the joints.

Step 9 If possible, it is recommended to mill the visible side faces with a hand mill. Choose the cutter profile you like, firmly fix the board in an upright position and make a pass with the tool. How to work with manual cutters is described in detail in the manufacturer's instructions. By the way, the presence of a manual cutter greatly expands the possibilities, such a tool is recommended for everyone involved in carpentry.

If you use serviceable saws with victorious soldering, and the machine has sufficient stability, then in the manufacture of such a simple lining, you can completely do without a thickness gauge and a milling cutter. Properly selected saw speed and optimum feed rate ensure a good surface finish. If necessary, the latter can be processed in some places with sandpaper or grinder, and external surfaces lining on the quality will be quite satisfactory.

Now let's look at how you can make eurolining on your own.

Prices for the popular range of circular saws

A circular saw

It's over complex work, you will need solid experience with woodworking machines. We will talk about the technology, and choose the dimensions of the lining and the profiles of the front surfaces yourself, taking into account the availability of tools and personal preferences.

What is the difference between eurolining and ordinary lining?

  1. The tongue/groove connection is deeper. This eliminates the risk of translucent seams during significant reduction the width of the boards, simplifies the installation of the sheathing. It is easier to insert hardware for fastening into a deep groove.
  2. The reverse side has one or two slots - the wall surfaces can breathe, static forces are reduced during the change in the linear dimensions of the lining. It is as a result of strong static forces that the cladding of the house can warp.

We take for the initial data that the boards the right sizes already prepared, material sorted and stacked in the proper place.

Step 1. Mount the cutter for making a groove and a side decorative chamfer on the machine, adjust the depth. To do this, release the ruler, put the end of the board to the knife and, moving the ruler closer or further, find the desired position. Secure the cutter head and ruler with great force.

In order to correctly set all the knives on the head, you need to cut a piece of the board for testing. Next, put it back on the cutter and, slowly turning the head in the opposite direction, check if all the knives work. You can recognize this by sound, if everything is fine, then the number of minor touches on the board should correspond to the number of cutters. For example, if the head has four knives, and you only feel three touches, then this means that one knife does not work. Find which one, adjust its position. This is quite difficult to do, it will take several attempts. Make sure that the expansion wedges of the knives are strongly pressed against the head.

Step 2 Attach the top and side clamps, install desired distance. Such stops greatly facilitate the milling process, improve quality and increase safety. Skip all the boards on one side.

Step 3 Change the cutter to a new one, it should cut a groove and remove the decorative chamfer. The clamps do not need to be re-adjusted, the width of all boards is the same and did not change during the first pass.

Step 4 Remove the cutter for side surfaces, release the ruler and clamps. Install the recess cutter with inside lining. The size and number of grooves do not matter, select them at your discretion.

Practical advice! If you don't have special grooving knives, no problem, you can use the same ones that were used for grooving. Raise the head so that the groove knife is in the middle of the board. The groove knife is longer than the chamfer knives, set the distance to the ruler so that only it works. The depth of the groove in this case will be approximately 3-5 mm, which is quite enough for the groove.

Prices for the popular range of milling machines

What determines the quality of homemade lining

Working with lumber is much more difficult than working with metal. In nature, there are no two completely identical boards, not to mention the different properties of soft and hard rocks. The metal does not have knots, does not absorb moisture, has no malformations, etc. And these indicators affect the processing technology. Industrial equipment allows you to greatly simplify the process due to the large mass of machines, the accuracy of adjustments, stable mechanical feed and strong pressure.

At home, all cutting parameters must be observed independently and quickly changed depending on the characteristics of the board and the capabilities of the machine. What should be remembered?

  1. Pay attention to the location of the fibers, never process lumber "against the grain".
  2. Check the condition of the bearings. The slightest beating will certainly affect the roughness of the surfaces. As soon as it is found that the machine shaft is slightly staggering, the bearing must be urgently changed or, if possible, adjusted. Tenths of a millimeter of vibration noticeably worsen the final quality.
  3. serviceability cutting tools- one of the important components of surface cleanliness. Saws and cutters must be sharp. If you make cutters yourself, then use only durable grades of tool steel. The geometry of all cutters must be the same. Otherwise, some of them will not work, and this is a very undesirable phenomenon.
  4. Accurately set the cutters, do not rush. It is very difficult for an inexperienced master to set all the cutters at once, do not be discouraged. Lose more time, but achieve the desired result. The time lost will be repaid in the long run.

  5. The more cutters, the better. If the head allows you to set four, then do so, do not work with two. Four cutters slightly increase the installation time, but then the machine works more time - they become less blunt.

  6. Always use exactly the same wedges to secure the knives. Even small differences in weight cause the head to vibrate. Vibration not only impairs the quality of processing, but also causes rapid wear of bearings, increases the risk of injury.
  7. Observe the cutting conditions for lumber. This is very important condition. The cutting conditions include the number of revolutions of the shaft, the number of cutting planes, the feed rate and the sharpening angle. You can talk on this topic for a very long time, cutting modes have great amount options. Beginning craftsmen need to get at least a little familiar with the theory, and in the future it all depends on the ability to practically learn and the desire to work with woodworking machines.
  8. Before feeding the board to the machine, inspect it, select the optimal cutting direction, taking into account the characteristics of the surfaces, the presence and type of knots and other defects.
  9. Fold the finished lining in even stacks, do not put it vertically, do not scatter it throughout the workshop. Cleanliness and order are evidence of the professionalism of the master.

  10. If there is little experience, then the entry / exit of the board may be defective due to a slight change in direction of movement and non-parallelism with the ruler. Keep this in mind when determining the length of the lining, make a margin in length.

Fasteners must securely hold the lining and at the same time be completely invisible. To fix the panels to the crate, self-tapping screws, kleimers, screws are used, but the most practical option- this is . But the nails for lining are not ordinary, but finishing, differing in the shape of the hat and some characteristics.

Video - The simplest do-it-yourself lining

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Everyone spends their leisure time in their own way, but it is best to do it with benefit. We offer you to make your own material for finishing your house or apartment. To do this, you will first need milling cutters for lining on a manual milling cutter. Imagine how convenient it is to make material for home repairs, you will agree that it is not only exciting, but also useful.

We make lining at home

Note! The lining cutter shown in the photo above is universal due to the fact that it is convenient to use it both on the machine and in a manual milling machine. The diameter of such parts can range from 35 to 59 millimeters, depending on the length of the shank.


  1. The cutter for making lining, which is shown in the photo, will help you with any sheet pile. It is important to set up the machine correctly, namely to choose a cutter in diameter and depth.

Self-manufacturing process

  • It's not an easy task, but that doesn't mean you can't do it. The main thing in this case is attentiveness and compliance with safety regulations;
  • First, make jointed blanks so that they are even. Make a cut immediately on one side of the uncut board, and then proceed to determine the width of the panel;
  • Before you finally decide on the width of the panel, you need to look at the width of all your boards so that in the end they all turn out the same. detailed instructions will help you to do everything consistently and without errors, most importantly, be careful;

  • When planing the material, you should be extremely careful, because it is in the process of planing boards that even professionals get injured. In order for the resulting material to be identical in thickness, it is necessary to count the phase passes, that is, their number.

Important! In order for the processing of boards to be simple and uncomplicated, to pass without problems, it is necessary to take material whose length does not exceed two meters. It is convenient to work with such boards, they are easy to handle. If the boards are very short, then their processing is facilitated if this process is carried out with a manual milling cutter.


Remember! When you cut the wane, very often there is enough material left that you should not throw it away. From these wastes it will be possible to make small connecting rails.


In the photo - the process of cutting a groove
  • In the case when the board has already been processed, you only need to make a spike and, of course, a groove. We set the table so that it is convenient for you to work on it and groove the board. Do not forget that it is constantly necessary to adjust the depth of the groove and the workpiece must always be firmly pressed against the table;

  • How to make a lining manual router you probably understood, but it will still be necessary to talk about the details and nuances of this case, because each case has its own characteristics that you need to know. Remember that if you need a calibrated board, you will need a thickness gauge to make it, manual machine for this will not pass;

  • When working with a manual router, you need to be extremely careful. Because this device is considered dangerous. Sometimes even the masters of their craft make a mistake and get injured, so beginners need to be always on the alert. Do not forget about safety precautions, and also monitor the thickness of the product so that your material is even;
  • Even a novice can make a lining with a manual milling cutter, if he familiarizes himself with all the rules for working with this device before starting work. Do not forget about what guarantees you the safety of work, you should not save on this.

Outcome

On the construction market today you can find all types and sizes building materials. Do not forget that the price for them is much higher than the cost of the material from which you yourself will make the lining. In the proposed video, you can see the individual stages of making wood panels with your own hands on the machine.

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