Holding the insulation with twine when insulating the ceiling from the inside. How to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof

Insulation of the ceiling and walls is an important component of home improvement. Every owner of a private home faces this question. Most of the heat comes out through the ceiling, so insulating it is very important. Modern market building materials today presents big choice various insulation materials. But, first of all, you need to decide how to carry out thermal insulation.

There are two methods, indoors or outdoors. Both bring good results. You should choose the one that is more convenient in a particular situation. If we talk about differences, they differ in technology and materials.

Selecting a thermal insulator

To insulate the ceiling in a private home, it is important which material to choose. Vapor-permeable heat insulator produce insulation from the inside. Vapor-tight insulation is perfect for working outside.

When purchasing material for insulation, you need to pay attention to the following qualities:

• Environmental friendliness and safety;
• Flexibility, the ability of insulation to restore its shape;
• Susceptibility to external influences or compressive strength;
• The density or weight of the insulator allows you to calculate the load on the attic floor;
• Fire resistance. There are 4 flammability classes in total, the least flammable materials are class G1.

One more nuance when choosing insulation. It is worth considering what the floors in the house are made of. Almost any insulation material is suitable for wood with planks. But for concrete slabs mainly used heavy bulk materials or slabs with good density. Thick thermal insulators in rolls and mats are also suitable. All this is important to know before you start insulating the ceiling.

How to insulate a ceiling in a private house

What insulation is better for the ceiling? It depends on many factors. Their choice today is wide. It is worth dwelling on their qualities in more detail.

Expanded clay is lightweight bulk material. It is made from special clay. As a result of processing, porous granules are obtained. Suitable for external insulation. He non-flammable, retains heat well and does not absorb moisture. It also does not harbor rodents. Therefore, when the question arises of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, many prefer expanded clay.

Fiberglass-based insulation is light in weight. They have all the properties necessary for thermal insulation. But they need a special coating that repels moisture. They are less resistant to its effects than others.

Mineral wool is not flammable, but its moisture resistance is average. This is fiber insulation. Available in rolls or slabs. It has good thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has excellent wear resistance. Suitable for insulating the ceiling in a private house from the inside. Its advantages also include:

However, mineral wool can cake and lose its properties. Glass wool is also classified as fiber insulation. It is quite strong and elastic, but is subject to shrinkage.

Modern heat insulators such as polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, and penofol are not inferior to traditional materials. They are made from foamed polymer. They can be produced with foil. This is additional protection against water. Foil also increases the thermal insulation qualities of the material. When insulating the ceiling, the material may be good choice.

Insulation materials made from extruded polystyrene foam are also lightweight and have low thermal conductivity. They have good mechanical strength and are affordable. They can warm the attic, which is planned to be used. Disadvantages include low vapor permeability. Therefore, when using them, you will have to take care of ventilation. They are not suitable for ceilings with complex configurations.

Penoizol is another one polymer material. It is durable. Has an almost unlimited service life.

Polystyrene foam is fireproof, weighs little and does not place a large load on the floors. Good thermal insulator. It does not absorb moisture, but does not allow air to pass through. Additional ventilation will be required. Available in slab form. It keeps its shape well. It can be combined with mineral wool.

This combination for ceiling insulation has its pros and cons. The properties of both insulation materials do not provide warm air go outside. However, the disadvantages include low level fire safety polystyrene foam and the fact that rodents can live in it.

There are natural cork insulation materials. These materials are made from compressed cork chips and resin. They allow air to pass through well, but are flammable.

Ecowool is considered harmless to health and has low thermal conductivity. It is made from cellulose. To reduce flammability she's being processed boric acid or fire retardants. When using it, a layer of waterproofing is not needed, because ecowool absorbs moisture. Suitable for all types of floors.

How to insulate ceilings in a private house from the outside

In a private house, insulation of the ceiling from the outside, that is, from the attic side, is done by laying a heat insulator on the ceiling or in its voids. This eliminates the need to disassemble the ceiling and do the repairs again. Probably the best option for a new or recently renovated home.

How to insulate ceilings from the outside, insulating the ceiling with sheets of polystyrene foam or polystyrene. It is better to choose thick foam, about 40 mm.

First, the attic must be cleared of debris. Then measurements are taken. Sheets of insulation are laid on the floor of the attic. They are fastened together polyurethane foam. If you plan to use the room as an attic, for example, then you need a concrete screed. A reinforcing mesh made of metal is placed on the insulation, and the screed solution is already poured onto it.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is also used for external insulation. After all the necessary measurements, the floor joists are installed. Then vapor barrier layer. You can also use glassine. The insulation is laid loosely, but without gaps between the joists. The next stage is flooring.

For outdoor insulation is suitable and expanded clay. If the floors are made of concrete, then the insulation process comes down to the following:

• A layer of waterproofing is laid on the slabs. Expanded clay is poured on top. The layer should be about 10 cm;
• Reinforcing mesh is laid on it. Plywood is laid on top as protection;
• Next, a screed is poured onto the reinforcing mesh;
• When the screed is completely dry, you can install the finishing coating.

It is important to take expanded clay of different fractions. This will prevent the insulation from shrinking.

Insulation with expanded clay wooden house done in the space between the beams. A layer of waterproofing is placed between the load-bearing beams. Typically, it is made of polyethylene. It needs to be secured. In between Expanded clay is poured between the beams. It is lightly compacted. Fiberboard is placed on top of it. Now it's time for the finishing coat.

To work with polystyrene foam you also need a vapor barrier. Foam boards fit tightly. It is important here that the heat insulator elements are hermetically connected at the joints. For this purpose, polyurethane foam is used.

Combined option insulation with polystyrene foam and expanded clay gives good results. Polystyrene foam is placed underneath, and the slabs are covered with expanded clay on top. I combine polystyrene foam with mineral wool. In this case, it is placed on foam boards.

A very old and proven method is insulating the attic with sawdust. But they are flammable. Therefore, they are often mixed with cement.

Penoplex modern insulation. Durable and quite suitable for insulating concrete floors in a private house. First, the surface of the ceiling is leveled and a layer of vapor barrier is laid. Penoplex is attached to the surface with dowels. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.

Insulation from the inside

Internal ceiling insulation in a private house is usually carried out with mineral heat insulators. For example, basalt wool. From the inside, the insulation is hidden behind suspended plasterboard ceilings.

1. First, a metal frame is attached to the ceiling;
2. Insulation is glued between the profiles;
3. Sheets of plasterboard are sewn onto the frame. Then the final finishing of the ceiling is done.

If mineral wool is chosen as insulation, then it is better to use tile adhesive. Mineral wool cannot be compressed; this causes it to lose its properties. When insulating with mineral wool in suspended ceiling no vapor barrier needed. This can lead to fungus.

The ceiling is insulated from the inside of the house using polystyrene foam. It is important to consider the density of the material here. For internal insulation Density 15 kg/sq. is suitable. m. or 25 kg/sq. m. Sheets of foam plastic are attached to the ceiling with glue. They can be coated with plaster.

We insulate the walls from the inside

It is also important to insulate walls in a private house. In principle, the heat insulators used are almost the same as for the ceiling.

• Foiled polyethylene foam;
• Polyplex;
• Mineral wool;
• Expanded polystyrene;
• Polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam is considered the most environmentally friendly thermal insulator. Therefore, quite often they insulate walls from the inside. But it is not suitable for do-it-yourself insulation. This requires special equipment.

Basalt wool and fiberglass are also used.

Wall insulation technology

In addition to insulation, you will also need materials such as timber. If you plan to use mineral wool. Necessary and slats for fastening material. Can be used as a vapor barrier plastic film or membrane. We also need material for finishing walls

The walls must be dry before work. It wouldn't hurt to treat it with an antiseptic to avoid fungus.

Insulation with mineral wool requires the presence of a frame. Its elements are installed vertically. Insulation boards fit tightly, leaving no gaps. You can secure them with special dowels to the surface. A waterproofing material is pulled over the insulation. It can be taped at the joints. Next comes the finishing of the walls.

Expanded polystyrene requires leveling of the working surface. After priming, it is treated with an antiseptic. When the walls are dry, you can install insulation. It is installed frameless way, attached with glue. They insulate with polystyrene foam in the same way. After the heat insulator is glued, small seams are sealed with foam. Wider cracks are insulated with strips of material. Then the finishing coat is applied.

Insulation is very important not only for saving energy resources. This procedure will make your home comfortable and cozy.

Compared to city apartments in multi-storey buildings, private houses have large area contact with external environment, so the issue of high-quality thermal insulation is much more pressing here. About 35% of the heat escapes into the surrounding air through an uninsulated ceiling if the roof and attic are not insulated with a thermal barrier. Wasting so much thermal energy is an unaffordable luxury, so we will consider optimal options thermal insulation ceilings.

Insulation from the inside or from the attic - which is preferable?

Modern construction technologies provide for the installation of thermal insulation layers simultaneously with the construction of the building. In this case, the most convenient and effective insulation installation schemes are selected at the design stage, taking into account the type of floor, the total load on building construction, heat saving needs in this climatic zone. This happens ideally if it is built new house in compliance with construction requirements and regulations.

If private building whether it was built a long time ago, or recently, but on its own, it is quite possible that the house may not have high-quality thermal insulation, including ceilings. In such a situation, homeowners have to independently solve the problem of insulation, selecting methods that meet the needs for heat conservation, the features of the building in general and the type of floors in particular. The first question that arises on the way to solving the identified problem is the side of the ceilings, on which it is more convenient and expedient to install a thermal insulation barrier.

You can insulate the floors on each side, and in any case it will be correct. But when choosing a method of insulation, you need to take into account some nuances. The first of these is the height of the ceilings. If the ceilings are low, continue to hide usable space there is no desire, insulation from the attic side definitely suggests itself, because a layer of insulation (at least 5-6 cm) plus finishing (2-3 cm) will make the ceilings even lower. Another situation is that the rooms have already been decorated, the interior has been decorated, and it suits the household quite well. Insulating the ceiling from the inside will lead to the need to make repairs again, which is impractical in all respects. Here, too, it is preferable to lay a heat-insulating barrier on top of the floors.

It only makes sense to insulate ceilings from the inside in a situation where the house is being major renovation. In this case, it is envisaged to implement one of the methods of internal thermal insulation of ceilings, which is carried out during the repair finishing works. Although recently, homeowners are increasingly choosing to insulate the ceiling from the attic side. This is much more convenient, less expensive and, moreover, easy. And this is a strong factor if you plan to construct a thermal insulation barrier yourself.

There is an option to insulate the floors on both sides. This is what those who want to turn their home into an impregnable fortress for the winter cold do. summer heat in order to then constantly save on energy bills.

Looking for a suitable material – polymers or fiber?

Now there is a sufficient choice that can be applied for our purposes. Along with the use of modern thermal insulation materials, traditional insulation materials are often used, which have been serving this purpose for centuries. These include wood shavings and sawdust, as well as materials based on them (sawdust concrete, a mixture of wood waste and clay). Some people cover the attic floor with a layer of dry leaves or paws coniferous trees. Our ancestors used such methods of insulating floors, but nothing prevents us from using such completely natural and often free materials in our time. Although modern technologies and materials are preferred by consumers, so let’s briefly consider their variety and main characteristics.

When classifying materials used for insulating ceilings, they can be divided into several groups:

• polymer heat insulators;
• fiber insulation;
• sprayed materials;
• bulk substances.

Polymers include the well-known polystyrene foam and the rapidly gaining popularity of extruded polystyrene, known to many under the commercial name “penoplex”. Polystyrene foam is used very widely for thermal insulation purposes in construction. The popularity of the material is ensured by two factors - very affordable cost and good thermal insulation properties. A high-quality material with a density of at least 35 kg/m 3 also has sufficient hydrophobicity so that there is no need to install water and vapor barriers when installing an insulating layer. Everything would be fine, but there are some problems, the main one of which is flammability, accompanied by extreme toxicity. The smoke released when this polymer burns can send anyone who inhales it 2-3 times to their forefathers. For this reason, in many developed countries This insulation is prohibited for thermal insulation work in residential buildings.

Penoplex does not have many of the disadvantages of polystyrene foam. It belongs to the class of materials that do not support combustion or are self-extinguishing, so its use in residential construction is not limited. In addition, polystyrene is completely insensitive to moisture and is not susceptible to bacterial and fungal microflora. The strength of penoplex is one of the highest when compared with other thermal insulators, therefore polystyrene is often used where strength characteristics play an important role (under screed, thermal insulation of building basements, basements). In terms of thermal insulation properties, polystyrene is approximately the same as polystyrene foam - to create a reliable thermal barrier, an insulation layer of 5-10 cm is sufficient (depending on the geography of the region).

Fibrous materials for thermal insulation work in construction include varieties of mineral wool. The material differs in the nature of the raw materials that are used to manufacture the material. All types of mineral wool are produced by melting minerals and forming fibers held together with organic adhesives. If the fibers are formed from molten glass, the end result is glass wool. Slag wool is made in the same way from blast furnace slag and other mineral waste from metallurgical production. Basalt wool, considered the highest quality material in this category, is formed by thermal exposure of certain types of rocks.

All fiber insulation materials are manufactured in varying densities. Highest specific gravity have mats that are used primarily for facade thermal insulation before plastering. Such a heat insulator is strong and rigid, therefore it forms a hard surface for finishing work on it. Medium-density mineral wool is also produced in the form of mats, but the material is looser and does not differ high strength. Mineral wool with the lowest specific gravity is sold rolled into rolls. To insulate the ceiling in a house, you can use medium- and low-density mineral wool, and the former will be more appropriate for thermal insulation from the attic side with cold roof, the second - for installing a thermal barrier from the inside.

Sprayed and bulk options - there are plenty to choose from

The last word in insulation technology building surfaces– sprayed heat insulators. These include polyurethane foam and ecowool. The first material is a polymer, the second is made from natural raw materials (cellulose). Both heat insulators are applied to the insulated surfaces by spraying, although in some cases ecowool is poured dry into the existing gaps, followed by compaction.

Polyurethane foam chemical nature, method of application and structure finished thermal insulation very close to regular polyurethane foam. To prepare a foam material having excellent adhesive properties, two components are used, which are dismounted and then applied using special equipment. The advantage of sprayed insulation is that it is seamless, which prevents the formation of cold bridges. Polyurethane foam in a polymerized (frozen) state is not flammable and has 1.3 times better thermal insulation characteristics than polystyrene foam. The disadvantage of a heat insulator is its gradual destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation (it needs to be protected) and the impossibility of working with it with your own hands (the equipment is expensive and it is not advisable to purchase it for one-time use).

The most commonly used bulk heat insulator is expanded clay - porous granules of various fractions. The raw material for the production of expanded clay is ordinary clay, so this insulation is environmentally friendly and natural. This insulation does not burn, has moderate hygroscopicity and good thermal insulation properties. The ability to withstand heat loss depends on the size of the granules - the smaller the fraction, the higher the thermal conductivity.

To insulate the attic floor, it is advisable to use expanded clay of a fraction of 5-10 mm.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling from the living rooms

There are two ways to insulate floors from the inside. The first involves installing heat-insulating boards or mats directly on the floor surface using glue and additional fixation with special dowels. This method is best used if a reinforced concrete slab is used as the floor. The second technology involves installing lathing for subsequent sheathing with sheets of plasterboard, plastic panels or clapboard. In this case, the insulation is laid between the load-bearing elements of the frame. This method is feasible for any type of ceiling. Both methods give a good thermal insulation effect, although the thickness of the layer is often limited due to the desire to preserve maximum usable space.

To implement the technology of direct installation of insulation on slabs, extruded polystyrene is most often used, although mineral wool mats with a high specific gravity can also be used. Preference is given to polystyrene for several reasons:

• the material is lighter, more convenient to use during installation;
• the thermal conductivity of polystyrene of the same thickness is approximately one and a half times lower than that of high-density mineral wool;
• To form finishing layers on the surface of mineral wool, you need to have skills in such activities, while plastering on polystyrene is no more difficult than on plasterboard.

In general, the installation of these insulation differs little. The only difference is in the polymer-cement mixtures used for gluing the heat-insulating sheets. The sequence of actions for this method of insulation is as follows:

• treat the floor slab with a primer mixture;
• prepare polymer cement glue (according to the instructions on the package);
• Apply the adhesive mixture to the insulation sheet (along the perimeter and in the center), after which we press the polystyrene plate to the concrete surface and place it in a horizontal plane;
• After the glue has set (after about a day), we additionally fix the insulation sheets with “umbrellas” - special dowels with a wide round cap.

All that remains is to plaster the insulation using reinforcing mesh and apply the finishing layers. If the second method is used, which involves laying insulation in the spaces between slats or profiles, we use medium or low density mineral wool as a heat-insulating material. Thermal insulation is placed between the frame elements and is slightly fixed with bent strips of direct hangers, with which the profiles are attached to the ceiling, after which the sheathing is covered with sheathing.

Installing a thermal barrier along the attic floor - available methods

To install a thermal barrier on the attic side, all of the materials mentioned above are applicable. If you need to hire specialized teams for insulation with ecowool or polyurethane foam, forming thermal insulation layers with expanded clay, mineral wool or polymer sheet insulation will not be difficult for any home craftsman.

If the floor is made of reinforced concrete slab, it is more advisable to use expanded clay, filling it with a layer of up to 15 cm, or lay penoplex, filling the seams between the sheets of polymer insulation with polyurethane foam. It is better to use mineral wool, since its ability to transmit water vapor is similar to wood. Fiber insulation is laid in the spaces between load-bearing structures. wooden beams, after which a vapor barrier is installed from the appropriate film. Then counter-battens are sewn along the beams, which will be the basis for laying the attic floor boards.

If you have easy access to waste lumber, you can reduce the cost of the event as much as possible by filling the spaces between the beams with a mixture of small shavings and sawdust. This method of thermal insulation will be the most environmentally friendly and natural for floors made of wood materials.

From 25 to 40% of heat is lost through the uninsulated covering of a house. A thrifty owner who seeks to optimize heating costs understands that insulating the roof or attic floor is a direct way to save money. In this article we will look at how to properly insulate a ceiling under a cold roof.

Insulate attic floor can be done in two ways:

1. Insulating the ceiling on the room side.
2. Insulating the ceiling from the cold attic side.

Professionals consider insulating the ceiling from below not the best solution for the following reasons:

• Installation of forced ventilation will be required.
• To insulate the ceiling, you need efficient slab materials with high cost.
• Carrying out the work is technically difficult.

The advantage of this method is that work can be performed in any weather.

Insulating the ceiling from above has the following advantages:

• It is more competent from the point of view of building thermal physics.
• Wider choice of insulation materials.
• The work is much easier to complete.

The disadvantage is the dependence on the outside air temperature when working with some insulation materials.

Choice of insulation

When choosing how to insulate a ceiling, you must take into account the following indicators:

• Thermal resistance.
• Vapor permeability.
• Hygroscopicity.
• Flammability group.
• Volume weight.
• UV resistance.
• Durability.
• Safety for human health.
• Price.
• Possibility of installation without involving a team of builders and renting special equipment.

To insulate the ceiling from below, you can use the following materials:

• mineral wool insulation – rigid, semi-rigid slabs or soft mats based on basalt or stone fiber;
• expanded polystyrene boards - foamed or extruded;
• polyurethane foam boards;
• flax slabs.

Insulation from the attic side gives the widest possible choice of materials. This:

• All types of mineral wool insulation - from stone, basalt wool, slag wool, glass wool.
• Thermal insulation materials made from flax - boards and mats.
• Plates made of expanded polystyrene - foamed, extruded, graphite-containing.
• Polyurethane thermal insulation – slabs and liquid polyurethane foam.
• Bulk insulation – expanded clay, vermiculite, gas silicate.
• Sprayed liquid compositions – ecowool, polystyrene.
• Environmentally friendly natural insulation materials - sawdust, straw, reeds, clay.

Mineral wool insulation

These insulation materials are effective, non-flammable, vapor permeable, and resistant to sunlight, are durable, but absorb moisture and lose their thermal insulation qualities. When laying on top of a ceiling or insulating a ceiling, vapor barrier of the material is required from below and waterproofing from above.

Slag wool is a very cheap TIM, but it is produced from blast furnace waste and may contain residual radiation. Radiation testing of the material is required before purchase.

Glass wool is effective, but its threads during installation form a dangerous respiratory system and skin dust, its use in housing is extremely undesirable.

Thermal insulation made of flax

TIM from flax waste – environmentally friendly pure material, which is similar in performance to mineral wool, but has an undeniable advantage - even absorbing up to 30% of moisture, it does not lose its heat-insulating qualities.

The only negative is the cost is higher than that of a mini-slab.

Expanded polystyrene

Different kinds expanded polystyrene is an excellent thermal insulation material that has two unpleasant qualities - rodents live in it, and therefore it requires special protection, and in the event of a fire it emits toxic smoke, although it does not support combustion. The use of expanded polystyrene indoors requires protection with non-combustible cladding.

Polyurethane foam

Plates and sprayed insulation made of polyurethane foam are by far the most effective heat insulator: they do not absorb moisture, are not afraid of rodents, and are environmentally friendly. Disadvantages include high cost and the need to rent special equipment for spraying.

Bulk insulation

Expanded clay, vermiculite, gas silicate are non-flammable bulk thermal insulation materials, widespread and low cost. Disadvantages - they absorb moisture, are not effective enough and are heavy.

For thermal insulation of the attic floor in a residential building in middle lane Russia will have to pour a layer 40…50 cm thick with a volumetric weight of 200–300 kg/m3. The reinforced concrete slab will withstand such a load, and the floor wooden joists will have to be strengthened.

Liquid insulation

Ecowool is used for attic thermal insulation quite often - the material has proven itself well, although it requires special equipment for spraying.

The introduction of fire retardants into ecowool and polystyrene reduces the flammability of the materials, which makes them safer.

Natural insulation materials

Natural insulation materials of local origin, such as straw, reeds, flax, sawdust, clay, do not cost anything, or only a penny, this is their main advantage. The use of these materials will not harm nature or humans, but they are ineffective - you have to lay a thick layer, they rot, mice infest them, and they are short-lived.

It is advisable to use these materials as a last resort.

Insulating the ceiling from below

How to properly insulate the ceiling in a house? There are several ways to perform insulation from below:

• Using wooden sheathing.

• On anchors followed by plastering over the mesh.

• On anchors with plasterboard lining.

The layer-by-layer structure with the sheathing device looks like this:

1. Load-bearing beams of the attic floor.
2. Rough floor.
3. A waterproofing membrane secured to the beams with lathing installed in a direction perpendicular to the beams.
4. Plates of insulating material on glue are placed in the cells of the sheathing.
5. A vapor barrier layer is attached to double-sided vapor-permeable tape.
6. The filing is carried out with plasterboard, chipboards, OSB or clapboard.

For insulation from below reinforced concrete slab you can use the second technology:

1. Anchors are placed on the ceiling with dowels in checkerboard pattern after 300 mm.
2. The insulation boards are wrapped in vapor barrier material, securing the edges with double-sided vapor-permeable tape.
3. The insulation is placed over the anchors, and the anchors are folded back.
4. Install the plaster mesh, tying it with wire to the anchors.
5. Perform plastering on the mesh.

The third technology differs from the second in that guides are attached to the anchors after installing the heat insulator metal frame for plasterboard covering.

Technologies for insulating the attic floor from above

In the case of insulation from the attic side, the design looks like this:

1. Load-bearing floor beams, if necessary, increasing the height of the beams by installing additional wooden blocks.
2. Rough floor.
3. Laying the vapor barrier layer as a continuous sheet, with an overlap of 10...15 cm, secured with double-sided vapor-permeable tape.
4. Laying TIM - slabs, mats or bulk.
5. The waterproofing layer is a membrane or bitumen-polymer based material.
6. Air gap – 40 mm.
7. Laying walking decks.

The height of the load-bearing floor beams in this structure must be no less than 40 mm higher than the thermal insulation.

Insulation with bulk material on the floor will have the following form:

1. Floor slab.
2. Vapor barrier.
3. Bulk thermal insulation.
4. Polyethylene film.
5. Boardwalk.

You can insulate the attic floor with a mixture of clay and sawdust. To preserve heat in the house, you will need a layer of TIM 20...30 cm thick. To prepare the sawdust-clay mixture, you will need a concrete mixer.

• pour 4...5 buckets of clay into a barrel of water or another container, stir until completely dissolved;
• the mixture is poured into a concrete mixer, sawdust is added;
• stir by adding water;
• the mixture is poured onto a layer of vapor barrier material.

When drying, the mixture may crack; the cracks are covered with clay.

Conclusion

Exists a large number of technologies for insulating cold floors, for work you can use the most different materials. There is nothing difficult or impossible in insulating a floor with your own hands, although you may need an assistant.

In order to insulate a ceiling yourself, you do not need university-level knowledge. It is enough to understand the floor plan, know the types of heat insulators used and how to install them.

How to choose the right material for ceiling insulation

Insulating the ceiling will significantly reduce the cost of heating residential premises. The main heat loss occurs through the upper and lower floors of the house, so you need to pay attention to both of them. It should be understood that insulating the attic floor requires a more careful approach than interfloor insulation. The fact is that the first one will always be colder, since there is a roof next to it.

When choosing thermal insulation materials the following characteristics must be taken into account:

• thermal conductivity (the lower it is, the better the insulation will be);
• water absorption coefficient (an important indicator that allows you to choose the least hygroscopic material);
• density and weight;
• flammability class (optimal G1);
• environmental friendliness.

In a private house, the ceiling can be either concrete or wood. In the first case, bulk materials, foam plastic, sprayed heat insulators, and dense mineral wool boards are used. For insulation wooden floor you can use any available materials with a low thermal conductivity coefficient. It is easier and easier to work with such ceilings. Methods for installing the same materials for concrete and wooden floors may be different.

GOST R 52952-2008. Thermal insulation materials and products. File for download.

In order to quickly determine the type of insulation, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the table.

Table. Characteristics of the most popular thermal insulation materials.

Video - How and how to insulate the ceiling of a private house

Methods of ceiling insulation, their pros and cons

There are two ways to insulate the ceiling in a private house:

• internal;
• external

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. If possible, both can be used to achieve the best results.

Internal

Insulating the ceiling from inside the room will require a device hanging frame from metal profiles or wooden blocks. This method is disadvantageous in that it significantly reduces the space of the room. Another disadvantage is that you will have to work at heights, holding tools and materials suspended. This will require significant labor costs.

Internal insulation requires a high-quality vapor barrier, since steam always rises and must certainly leave the room. Otherwise, the ceiling will inevitably become damp and mold or mildew will appear on it. Therefore, when choosing thermal insulation materials, it is important to take into account their vapor permeability coefficient.

External

External ceiling insulation is easier to perform, since in this case the construction of an expensive and bulky suspended frame is not required. You can use any bulk materials with low thermal conductivity: sawdust, expanded clay, slag, foam chips, ecowool. This method is often used when insulating attic floors if you do not plan to use the space under the roof.

In the event that the premises are equipped mansard type, external insulation of the ceiling will simultaneously serve as a floor structure. Therefore, to complete this task, you will need to install the frame and then cover it with suitable durable materials: boards, OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood.

Technology of internal insulation of a concrete ceiling in a private house

The easiest way to insulate a concrete floor is from the attic side. The fact is that to install a frame inside a living space, you will need to perform a complex of very labor-intensive work, including drilling numerous holes.

But if there is no other way out, you should prepare all the necessary tools:

• drill or hammer drill;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• construction bubble level;
• twine and marker for marking.

Materials you will need:

• metal profile for working with drywall (can be replaced with wooden blocks with a cross section of 40/40 mm);
• hangers for fixing metal profiles (narrow perforated metal strips);
• connecting elements - “crabs”, used when installing frames for suspended ceilings;
• insulation (foam sheets, rolled materials, mineral wool boards);
• panels for covering the frame (moisture-resistant plywood, OSB, plasterboard);
• vapor barrier membrane (film).

Stages of constructing a suspended frame and insulation

Step 1. Marking. In order to perform this task correctly, you need to understand what the frame layout is. It consists of longitudinal and transverse posts connected to each other by crabs and fixed to the ceiling using hangers.

In order to make it easier for yourself to insulate a concrete floor, you need to choose such a distance between the longitudinal posts so that insulation sheets can be laid in the openings between them without additional cutting. But it should be taken into account that it should not exceed 80 cm, since in this case the structure will be unstable.

Markings are applied to all four walls adjacent to the ceiling. The easiest way is to stretch the cord from corner to corner, checking the correct direction using a bubble level. After this, markings are applied directly to the ceiling itself.

Step 2. Installation of guides. To install the frame, two types of metal profiles are used: PN 28/27 and PP 60/27. The first is the guide. It is attached in accordance with the marking lines along the walls.

Step 3. Installation of hangers. In order for the frame to be firmly attached to the ceiling, the suspensions are installed at a distance of 80-90 cm from each other. The required number of holes is drilled on the ceiling in the right places.

Step 4. Installation of longitudinal and transverse frame posts. Install the PP 60/27 metal profile so that the location of each rack corresponds to the markings.

Step 5. Laying the heat insulator. To support the material laid between the posts, the legs of the suspensions are used, bending them in the desired direction.

Step 6. Laying a vapor barrier membrane. At this stage of work, it is important not to damage the integrity of the film. sharp objects. You need to pull it carefully, fixing it on the metal frame posts using double-sided tape.

Step 7 Frame covering. When performing this work, it is important to install the sheathing panels so that the gaps between them are minimal. Solid sheets must be fastened perpendicular to long guide profiles. The joining of sheets should be done in the middle of the profile. For high-quality fastening It is better to do the work together. The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the latter are recessed into the sheathing material by 2-3 mm. The pitch between the screws should be 25-30 cm (3-4 cm from each corner of the sheets).

Chips should not form on the edges of the sheets when screwing in the screws. If damage does occur, the self-tapping screw must be removed and a new one screwed in 3-4 cm.

Important point! There must be a ventilation gap of at least 1 cm between the insulation and the sheathing. Otherwise, moisture will accumulate under the film.

External ceiling insulation technology in a private house

External insulation of the upper floor can be single-layer or multi-layer. Regardless of the chosen option for landscaping the attic space, it is recommended to use materials with low weight. This applies to both wooden and concrete ceilings.

If you plan to use bulk material, it is necessary to correctly calculate the layer thickness. For sawdust 20-30 cm is enough, for expanded clay 10-15 cm. In order to attic space it was convenient to move, they mount a frame, on top of which they lay floorboard, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

To construct the frame for external insulation of the ceiling, it is recommended to use wooden blocks or boards. The first ones are suitable if the layer is not very thick.

Stages of work on constructing a frame for external ceiling insulation

Step 1. Based on the dimensions of the insulation sheets, the distance between the frame (sheathing) posts is determined.

Step 2. Draw up a diagram for laying longitudinal and transverse crossbars.

Step 3. The boards are installed at the ends.

Step 4. The boards are secured to the floor using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Selection of material for external insulation

There are a few possible options, let's get acquainted with the installation features of each of them.

Styrofoam

The following can be placed in the openings between the frame posts:

• mineral wool in rolls and mats;
• foam sheets;
• bulk thermal insulation.

The choice depends on the financial capabilities of the home owner and his preferences. The least troublesome floor insulation is using polystyrene foam. If this particular material is chosen, the frame must be built so that the sheet can be laid without preliminary cutting. In the case of polystyrene foam, this is not entirely simple. Manufacturers offer canvases with a width of 50 cm and 1 m. You can use any.

The most preferred brand for attic floor insulation is C25. This is a denser foam compared to C15, therefore it has lower thermal conductivity. Polystyrene foam C35 and polyurethane foam are expensive materials, but the most beneficial for regions with harsh climates, as they provide the highest quality insulation.

Mineral wool

Manufacturers offer a wide selection of fibrous thermal insulation materials. The most popular: “Isover”, “Rockwool”, “Ursa”, “Parok”. These materials have many advantages, but have only one drawback: hygroscopicity. If the roof is not sufficiently waterproofed, mineral wool cannot be used to insulate the attic. Over time, it will inevitably absorb moisture and lose most its thermal insulation properties.

Sawdust

The cheapest and easiest way to insulate the ceiling from the outside is to use sawdust. When choosing this material, it should be taken into account that it is also very hygroscopic. To prevent wood rotting, sawdust is mixed with lime. Building materials stores sell fluffed lime that is ideal for this purpose.

Another way to insulate with sawdust is to prepare a mixture consisting of the following ingredients:

• sawdust;
• cement;
• water.

Optimal proportions: 10:1:1. The mass is mixed manually in a container of suitable volume or in a concrete mixer. Ready-made composition fill the space between the sheathing posts and allow time to dry.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay is the most convenient bulk insulation. When using it, there is one nuance, knowledge of which will allow you to obtain better insulation. When filling expanded clay, you need to ensure that granules of different diameters are present. This will eliminate large voids.

The name of this material should not be misleading: it has nothing to do with high environmental friendliness. Ecowool is made from recycled materials: newspapers, cardboard, bags. All components are mixed with brown and boric acid. These additives are needed to ensure a low flammability coefficient of the material and prevent its rotting.

The advantage of ecowool is that it has low thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability. We can say about this material that it “breathes”, so mold or mildew never forms under it.

Ecowool is extremely easy to install and apply. All insulation work can be done with your own hands, without the involvement of assistants.

There are three ways to lay ecowool:

• dry;
• wet;
• adhesive.

In the first case, ecowool is placed in the openings of the sheathing and compacted. To insulate using the last two methods (wet and glue), you will need a special machine consisting of a hopper, a sprayer and a compressor. A mixture based on water or PVA glue is prepared in a hopper, after which ecowool is fed under pressure into a hose from which spraying is carried out.

Ceiling insulation using polyurethane foam

A modern method of ceiling insulation is spraying polyurethane foam (PPU). This lightweight foam material is quickly applied to any surface. At the same time, it does not need to be attached to the wall or ceiling, as it firmly adheres to them.

PPU has the following advantages:

• has low flammability;
• non-toxic;
• resistant to chemicals;
• has low hygroscopicity;
• durable.

When sprayed, a continuous layer without gaps is formed. This eliminates the formation of cold bridges, which makes the insulation better. Polyurethane foam has excellent vapor permeability, so the ceiling does not require additional vapor barrier. This allows you to save on the cost of insulating the ceiling.

Before applying polyurethane foam, it is important to make sure that the condition of the surfaces meets the requirements for them. Humidity level concrete ceiling should not exceed 4%, wooden - 12%.

Before starting work, all surfaces not intended for insulation are covered with paper, polyethylene or thick fabric. Polyurethane foam is applied in layers, constantly monitoring the thickness of the spray. Before applying the next layer, make sure that the previous one is completely dry and hardened. The application density of polyurethane foam is 30-50 kg per 1 m3. This method of insulating the ceiling in a private house is the most expensive, but at the same time the most convenient.

Video - Ceiling insulation with polyurethane foam

Insulating the ceiling in a private house is a guarantee of warm rooms in winter and a cool climate in summer. You need to take care of this even at the stage of building a house. But if you got the house ready-made, you can still insulate the ceiling with minimal effort.

School knowledge of physics can still be useful in life. So, due to convection, when cold air goes down, and the hot one goes up, all the heat accumulated in the room will penetrate through the uninsulated ceiling into the unheated attic. Because of this, you have to increase the boiler power and, as a result, incur additional heating costs.

For the same reason, ceiling insulation requires a more serious approach than wall insulation - due to air flows, heat loss wooden ceiling can reach 3 W/m2/K. For brick or concrete floors the figure is even higher. At the same time, there is no need to insulate the ceilings between living spaces if the temperature in them is the same. It is enough to take care of sound insulation and save money on thermal insulation of the attic and roof.

In summer, it is also better to have an insulated ceiling - the roof heated by the sun transfers heat into the room, negating the operation of air conditioners. Having spent once on thermal insulation, you can enjoy a comfortable microclimate in your home for many years.

What to look for when choosing insulation?

First of all, you need to decide where to lay the insulation - inside or outside living rooms. The first option is extremely undesirable for several reasons:

• ceiling height decreases;
• it is impossible to use bulk insulation;
• the cooling point moves closer to the inside of the ceilings;
• inevitable repairs due to dismantling the old ceiling.

Attic insulation is devoid of all these negative features. But if an attic is not provided, or the project includes an attic floor, the roof must be insulated immediately.

Choosing materials for insulation with your own hands

Polystyrene foam or EPS, as well as mineral wool and its analogs are suitable for insulation from the inside and outside. Such materials are laid between beams or in a specially constructed frame and covered with plasterboard, OSB boards or clapboard.

But if there is a sauna in the house, then it is better not to insulate the ceiling above it with polystyrene foam - due to high temperatures, it can begin to release substances harmful to humans.

Aerated concrete slabs are also excellent for internal insulation due to their low weight and ease of installation. Their thickness of up to 10 cm will not “eat up” very much height, and additional cladding will not be required. Polystyrene board adhesive is applied to the boards with a notched trowel and pressed against the ceiling.

The insulation is puttied and painted.

Bulk insulation materials such as shavings, ecowool or expanded clay are quite economical. True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing. Such insulation is poured between the beams on the attic side in a layer of about 15 cm, and for ease of movement in the attic it is covered with OSB boards.

True, having high hygroscopicity, they require good waterproofing.

What kind of insulation is not chewed by mice?

Mice chew any insulation. But not as food, but to expand their moves. You may hear claims that mice eat styrofoam. This is not entirely true - they gnaw through it and build nests in it. But the same fate will befall mineral wool, albeit a little later.

Due to its flowability, ecowool can help a little - but rodents will simply endure it until they can settle and move normally in the insulation. The most rodent-resistant expanded clay is strong “pebbles”, large enough so that mice and even rats cannot carry them away, and at the same time small enough to fill their passages.

But there is a catch here - mice will arrange “beds” there. Therefore, the only way to protect the insulation is to prevent rodents from entering it in principle. Everything else is only a temporary and very unreliable solution.

How to insulate an attic ceiling?

Do-it-yourself insulation from the attic side is quite simple. First, space is freed and completely removed flooring(if it was). The work is carried out step by step:

To insulate a concrete floor, the technology is exactly the same - it is enough to lay logs on top of the concrete. You can also use sprayed materials, but this requires special equipment and certain skills.

How to insulate a ceiling from the inside?

By using suspended ceiling You can insulate the room from the inside. For this:

Due to lack of ventilation Spotlights It is not advisable to use them in an insulated ceiling - they heat up and quickly fail. And upon contact with polystyrene foam, the insulation may begin to melt.

There are three ways to solve the problem. The first is to use only pendant chandeliers and Wall lights. The second is to remove the layer of thermal insulation around the lamps built into the ceiling. At the same time, do not forget about the vapor barrier - it should cover the mineral wool without gaps. And the third is to lower the ceiling a few more centimeters, sufficient to install spotlights.

How to insulate an attic floor and ceiling attic floor, described in detail in the video: