Do-it-yourself frame baths. Do-it-yourself brick bath How to build a frame bath drawings

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Waterproofing of the structure with roofing material.
2. Wall marking and laying out along the outer contours of the boards (outer side). You need to connect them to each other with nails.
3. Connection by means of basement piping supports. Horizontal laying control.
4. Insert log for subsequent flooring. The distance between them is about 0.5 m.
5. Treatment of the entire structure with a composition that prevents wood decay.

Advice. The strapping and logs can be attached to the foundation pipes using pre-walled metal plates. This will give additional strength to the future bath. Expanded clay blocks can be placed under the logs to strengthen the entire structure.

At this stage, it is advisable to start laying the floor. It can be wooden or concrete, leaking or not. It all depends on whether you are going to use the bath only in summer time or all year round. In the first case, you can get by with a simple wooden flooring laid at intervals through which water escapes - this is the leaking structure. If you want to make a solid warm floor, then you must first equip the draft layer: stuff plywood on the logs, put an insulating film and insulation on top. Then you need to lay out the top, fine floor covering, and fix it with nails.

Advice. Boards for floor covering must be processed in advance so that the smallest roughness does not cause discomfort for vacationers in the bath.

Wall building rules. Top framing and roofing

Before assembling the base of the bath - the frame - 2 conditions must be met:

• dry the material well;
• make markings for future frame racks.

After that, you can proceed with the installation:

The construction of the walls of the bath

1. Install 2 corner and several intermediate racks. The distance between them directly depends on the dimensions of windows and doors and should be: 40 cm - if docking with other walls and arrangement of the opening is planned; 60 cm - if adhesion to other walls is not provided.
2. Check if the structure is in the shape of a rectangle.
3. Sheathe the frame with particle boards (from the selected corner). Attach with screws.
4. Put a few more racks and sheathe them in the same way.
5. Make the top harness and attach it to the uprights.

Then you can proceed to the installation of the roof. Prepare bars 150x150 mm - these will be ceiling beams. Place them on the top trim, keeping a distance of 0.5x0.6 m. Mount a temporary boardwalk 5 cm thick on top. Collect the rafters on the ground and install them on the roof. If the height of the roof ridge is small, then installation can be done directly at the top.

Advice. Before installing the last truss structure, make a markup on it particle boards with which the pediment will be sheathed.

Depending on what material you are going to use as roofing, you need to decide on appearance battens installed on the rafters:

• for iron or soft roof(for example, roofing felt) you need to make a continuous surface;
• for metal tiles, gaps with a distance of 35 cm are permissible;
• for slate or ondulin, you can take steps of 60 cm;
• when using natural tiles, you must first consider its size.

Assembling the walls of the bath

After installing the crate, you need to lay the coating, and then install the windows and doors.

Outside, the bath can be plastered, sheathed with boards or siding, inside - make an imitation of natural wood. It is better to lay out the wall that separates the steam room from the rest room with bricks - in order to fire safety. It is not worth painting and varnishing the internal surfaces: due to the high temperature, they will begin to release toxins. Engage in construction thoroughly - and the bath will serve you for many years.

Construction of a frame bath: video

Frame bath: photo

You can quickly and inexpensively build a bath in only one way - frame. If you follow the basic rules, then the building will be in no way inferior to brick and timber counterparts.

We design a bath - different options for the area

We start work on the bath with design. At this stage, it is necessary to determine the size and configuration of the future structure. If your requirements are minimal, you can build a 3x4 m bath. It has enough space for a steam room for several people with an area of ​​​​6 m 2. The remaining space can be taken under the rest room. If you donate a rest room, then there will be enough space for a locker room and a vestibule. And if you equip such a bath with an attic floor, then you won’t have to give up the rest room.

If the bath will be used as a place to spend time with friends, it is better to make it larger, for example, 6x4. In this case, you can equip it with a fairly spacious rest room with an area of ​​\u200b\u200babout 14 m 2, as well as a steam room for 5 m 2 and a small bathroom.

And if you make a 4x6 bath with an attic, then the steam room and washing room, as well as a relaxation room and a terrace, can be placed on the ground floor. Whole attic floor, and this is about 20 m 2, can be set aside for a rest room.

If the size of your site allows, and the budget is not very limited, make attic bath size 6x6 m, so as not to deny yourself anything. It has a place for everyone necessary premises, as well as for the terrace and spacious balcony.

Large steam rooms are much more difficult to heat up to the required temperature and then maintain temperature regime on the same level. Therefore, if there is no need for a large steam room, it is more expedient to allocate no more than 4-5 m 2 for it. This will save fuel and time to warm up the room.

In order not to puzzle over the layout, you can take as a basis finished projects offered on our website. Adjust the layout as needed if necessary. When the plan is ready, be sure to draw up a drawing of the frame of the walls and roof.

The frame of the walls is quite simple - it is based on racks, which are located in increments of 600 mm, if measured from the centers, or 575 mm, if measured between the racks. Above and below the racks are connected by strapping - a horizontally located beam or board. In the corners of the rack are reinforced with braces. Above doorways and above and below window openings horizontal jumpers are located. Floor beams are calculated and laid in the same way as in the construction of ordinary houses.

Having such a drawing in front of you, you will not make mistakes in the process of assembling the structure. In addition, it will allow you to calculate in advance required amount lumber.

Column foundation - building the foundation

Since the frame bath is light in weight, in most cases a columnar, shallow foundation is sufficient for it, provided that the soil is stable. On unstable soils, it is better to perform a pile-screw foundation. If you are planning a cellar or equip other premises, you will need strip foundation. In other cases, it is better to refuse it, since the construction of such a foundation is very costly and time-consuming.

Regardless of what kind of foundation you are going to build, first prepare the site - first of all, you need to correctly outline it. Be sure to make sure that the diagonals of the site are the same length. Then get rid of the plant layer. So that plants do not germinate under the bath in the future, treat the soil with fungicides.

Now you can start building the foundation itself. If the base is columnar, you will need the following materials:

• sand;
• crushed stone;
• cement mortar;
• concrete foundation blocks (can be replaced with bricks);
• bituminous mastic;
• ruberoid;
• timber 150x150 mm.

After preparing the materials, mark the area for the posts, which should be located in increments of 1.5–2 m. Then dig holes to a depth of about 40 cm. Fill the bottom of the holes with crushed stone and sand 10 cm thick. Tamp each layer carefully. Align the surface of the embankment in a horizontal plane.

Put two in the holes concrete blocks, then apply the solution and lay two more blocks with dressing on top. In the process of laying blocks, make sure that the posts are installed strictly vertically. Then, treat the blocks with bituminous mastic on top and lay a couple of layers of roofing material.

After that, you need to perform a grillage, i.e. lay a beam along the perimeter of the foundation and fasten it together. In the process of laying, make sure that the corners of the grillage are 90 degrees. Gusset it is desirable to perform the grillage beam "in the paw" or at least "in half a tree". Then you need to lay the floor beams on the columns and cut them into the grillage.

The pile-screw foundation is even simpler - piles are screwed into the ground according to the principle of a conventional drill. The level of their penetration should be at least two meters. In the process of deepening, it is necessary to ensure that the piles are located vertically.

Then the top of the piles is cut so that the edges are at the same horizontal level. After that, a grillage is welded to the piles, which is usually made of I-beams. The same beams are used for overlapping.

On metal beams, you need to fix a beam of 150x150 mm with bolts. It will serve as a strapping for the frame racks.

Assembling the frame - materials and installation

For the construction of the wall frame, you will need the following lumber:

• timber 150x150 mm;
• timber 100x150 mm;
• board 150x40 mm;
• steel corners;
• wooden dowels.

Be sure to treat all lumber with antiseptic impregnations. They will protect the tree from negative biological influences, as well as make it more resistant to moisture.

Work begins with the installation of racks at the corners of the building, which are made of timber 150x150 mm. At the end of each post, drill a hole for the dowel with a depth of 80-100 mm. Make the same holes in the grillage at the corners of the building. Then hammer the dowels themselves into the grillage and put the racks on them. Additionally, strengthen the racks with steel corners and self-tapping screws.

Then the racks must be strengthened with braces, as shown in the diagram above. For the manufacture of braces, use boards 150x40 mm. Cut the ends of the braces at an angle with which they will adjoin the harness and uprights. To fix the boards, use self-tapping screws and corners.

Next, install intermediate wall racks with a pitch of 600 mm, made from a board 150x40 mm. To fasten the racks, use steel corners, which should be located on both sides of the brace. In addition, connect the intermediate posts to each other, as well as to the corner posts, using jumpers made from the same boards. Place jumpers in checkerboard pattern, i.e. at different levels.

From above, tie all the racks with a strapping, which is made of a beam of 100x150 mm, it will also serve as a Mauerlat for the roof. Then install horizontal strips above and below the openings. Use the same board for the planks as for the uprights.

Then install the racks in the same way. interior partitions- connect them from above and below with a strapping, and also strengthen them with braces and jumpers. This completes the construction of the frame.

Now you need to lay the floor beams, which can be used as a timber 100x150 mm. Place them with an edge on the strapping and secure with corners. The step of the beams must match the step of the rafters - this is usually 900–1000 mm.

We mount the mansard roof

As an example, consider how the roof, since it allows, with a minimum increase financial costs get practically full second floor. If you are interested in or, check out other articles on our portal.

For the attic roof you will need the following materials:

• timber 100x150 mm for racks;
• boards 150x50 mm for rafters;
• boards 150x20 mm;
• slats;
• super diffuse membrane;
• roofing material.

Work begins with the installation of the supporting structure. For each roof truss, two racks are installed, which are connected from above by beams. Those. under each roof truss there is a U-shaped supporting structure.

When installing the support structure, it is necessary to correctly determine the position of the racks. Since the rack with the lower rafter and the Mauerlat (floor beam) forms a rectangle, the distance from the wall to the rack depends on the height of the attic and the angle of inclination of the lower rafter. Knowing the angle of the rafter and the height of the rack (determines the height attic space), you can calculate at what distance from the edge the rack is installed using the Pythagorean theorem, i.e. you need to know the length of the smaller leg.

Fix the racks on the strapping and floor beams with self-tapping screws and corners. Also, reinforce them with braces. Then connect both racks with beams. According to this principle, install U-shaped parts on all floor beams. Connect all the resulting load-bearing elements along the edges with runs, as shown in the diagram above.

Now you can install the lower rafters. From below, they are slaughtered and attached to the strapping, and from above - to the run, in which the grooves are pre-cut. Next, you need to fix the racks in the center of the jumpers of the U-shaped parts. The height of the racks determines the angle of inclination of the upper rafters. Tie all racks with a ridge run.

At the end of work on the attic frame, install the upper rafters, which rest on the lower and ridge runs. Pre-cut grooves for the rafters in the runs. Immediately waterproof the roof - fix the super-diffuse membrane to the rafters with a stapler. Stick a special self-adhesive tape over the brackets, which will ensure the tightness of the connection. Please note that the membrane webs should overlap each other by 20–25 centimeters.

The superdiffuse membrane is able to pass moisture in one direction. Therefore, it should be located on the roof with the smooth side outward, and the rough side inward. If you fix it incorrectly, moisture can penetrate deep into the insulation, as a result of which it will lose its thermal insulation properties.

On top of the rafters, be sure to fasten the slats that will serve as a counter-lattice. Then fix the boards 150x20 mm perpendicular to the rails. As for the crate step, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. roofing material that you purchased for the bath.

Mounted on top of the frame roofing according to the standard scheme - sheets of material must necessarily overlap each other along and across. Screws or nails are located on the crest of the wave.

We insulate the walls, roof and floor of the bath

To insulate walls you will need:

• basalt wool with a thickness of 150 mm and a density of 25-35 kg / m 3;
• vapor barrier film;
• moisture-windproof membrane (super diffuse);
• wooden slats.

For steam insulation, it is more expedient to use a foil vapor barrier material. It will not only protect the structure from moisture, but will also reflect heat into the room.

Warming will start with the vapor barrier of the walls from the inside. To do this, stick self-adhesive double-sided sealing tape on the racks. Then glue the waterproofing film to the tape. Be sure to place the canvases with an overlap of at least 15 centimeters. Glue the joints with double-sided sealing tape. Additionally fix the foam with a stapler. As a result, an absolutely sealed circuit should be obtained, otherwise moisture will penetrate inside the walls and the frame will quickly become unusable.

Then lay mineral wool slabs in the space of the frame. Make sure that the insulation fits snugly to the structural elements and to each other. Carefully fill all the formed cracks with scraps of cotton wool.

Next, you need to fix the moisture-windproof membrane on the outside of the walls. It is mounted according to the same principle as a vapor barrier - a sealant is glued to the racks, then the membrane itself is attached with a stapler. On top of the film on the racks, it is imperative to fix the rails with a thickness of at least 20 mm. Stuff the same rails on the racks with inside walls, they will serve as a crate for lining.

The roof is insulated using the same technology - mineral wool is laid between the rafters, then it is closed from the inside with a vapor barrier. A crate for lining or other finishing materials is mounted on top of the vapor barrier.

The floor is insulated a little differently - first of all, you need to make a rough flooring between the floor beams from the boards. Then it is laid on the beams and flooring waterproofing film(you can use the usual vapor barrier). Logs are laid on top of the film as when installing a conventional floor.

A heater is placed in the space between the lags. You can use any material, both slab and loose, such as ecowool or expanded clay. Another layer of film is laid on top of the lag and then the flooring is made of boards.

To insulate the ceiling, fix the vapor barrier from the side of the first floor, and then make a draft ceiling from the boards. Then, from the side of the second floor, you need to fill the space between the beams with insulation. A vapor barrier and plank flooring are laid on top of the beams.

We sheathe the walls - the final stage

For wall cladding on the outside, it is best to use OSB-4 with a thickness of 12-15 mm. The sheets must be cut so that the edges lie on the rack. There should be no hanging edges. At the locations of window and door openings, it is necessary to make cutouts using a jigsaw or a hacksaw.

To fasten the sheets, use phosphated self-tapping screws 60-70 mm long. The distance from the edge of the sheet to the screw should be 10 mm. The step of fasteners along the edges should not exceed 150 mm. In the center of the sheets, the pitch of the screws can be increased up to 300 mm.

Between the edges of the sheets, be sure to provide a distance of about 5 mm, i.e. so-called expansion joint. If it is not done, the sheathing sheets may be deformed as a result of thermal expansion. All seams must be filled with mounting foam.

Similarly, sheathe the gables of the building. Then the walls can be finished with any "dry" facade finishing materials, such as lining, siding, thermal panels, etc. From the inside, sheathe the walls with clapboard. If you do not know how, dedicated to the topic.

That's all the main points. Even if you are a beginner, erect a box small bath you can in one or two weeks.

Every owner of a suburban area knows about the benefits and pleasure that bath procedures bring. That is why many strive to ensure that they have this building in their own use. But not everyone has the opportunity, time and finances to build this structure of brick or logs. Construction will be the way out. frame bath with your own hands. If you correctly approach the issues of insulation and waterproofing, then it will serve for a very long time.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Construction design and material selection

Any construction begins with planning and procurement of materials. To start shopping, you need to develop a plan.

To draw up a drawing you need:

• decide on a place;
• study the soil in this place, as it affects the choice of foundation;
• determine for yourself which design will be optimal for you.

Include in your project the standard bath rooms: dressing room, vestibule, shower room and steam room. The location of the stove should also be indicated on the schematic image of the bath.

making out project documentation don't miss a single detail. Indicate absolutely everything - from the type of ventilation and features of the chimney to the materials used for interior, exterior and roofing.

At the design stage, determine the dimensions of each of the rooms, indicate them on the diagram. At the same time, consider how many people will be in the steam room at the same time. It should not be too crowded, but it will be difficult to warm up an overly large bath.

The optimal steam room is considered to be with dimensions of 2400x2000 mm with a ceiling height of 2200 mm.

Often lovers of steam make projects with additional premises: recreation room, billiard room, swimming pool, etc. A bathroom in the bath will bring additional convenience during the adoption of bath procedures.

Video: how to draw a frame bath for a summer residence

Do-it-yourself foundation building technology

For a frame bath, you can use any type of foundation.

pile

Very easy to build and reliable. Used for small and light structures. Gained its popularity due to low cost and quick construction. When choosing foundations, important parameters are the depth of soil freezing and occurrence ground water. Piles should be placed deeper than this level. In addition, for greater reliability, reduce the distance between the support points as much as possible. Get ready to dig deep.

There are certain subtleties of use pile foundation:

1. This type of foundation is best suited for unstable soil (sand, peat). In this case, the supports are dug into the soil to the depth where there is a solid stable support. Thus, the weight of the structure will fall on good soil.
2. Where the soil freezes below 1500 cm, piles are an excellent foundation option.
3. If the ground surface is uneven and very hilly, then the construction on a columnar base will also be the only way out. In this case, you don't have to do a large number of site leveling work.
4. Another type of soil that is ideal for pile foundations is dense. In order to dig a trench or a foundation pit in it, you will have to make a lot of effort. And drilling wells for piles is much easier.

Table: types of piles

Photo gallery: types of piles

Bored piles are most often used in the construction of baths. Screw metal piles can be mounted independently
Driven reinforced concrete piles are not suitable for a bath

Location and dimensions of piles

The key locations for piling are the corners of the building, the places where outer wall connects to the wall and, of course, it is necessary to install intermediate pillars along the length of the walls. The distance between the supports must be at least 2 m, so that the bearing capacity of the foundation is not violated.

Do not make pillars with a diameter of less than 20 cm. The larger this parameter, the better the bearing capacity of the foundation will be.

To understand how long the posts are needed, you need to know:

• how deep does the soil freeze?
• at what depth does reliable non-floating soil begin.

The level of freezing for a certain region is practically unchanged. But in order to deal with the state of the soil, test drilling will come to the rescue, which will show everything.

Step-by-step instructions for building brick piles

Rubble stone or bricks are also often used to create a foundation. They are fixed to each other concrete mortar. It is worth placing such pillars using the same technology as piles. This also applies to the distances between them. The corner posts are made square (380x380 mm), and the intermediate ones are rectangular (380x250 mm). They should rise 300–400 mm above the soil and go 250–300 mm deep.

All work on the construction of the foundation takes place in several stages:

This is the most common foundation option. And not only for the construction of a bath. He gained his popularity due to the ease of construction. Ideal for non-flowing immovable soils, with deep groundwater.

To build a bath, it does not need to be deepened too much, especially if the soil does not freeze much.

If the bath stove requires a separate foundation, then it is better to start building it together with the foundation for the entire building.

Follow the steps in the following sequence:

Pour concrete from a height of 500 mm or less. This way the concrete won't break.

Formation of the floor structure and its thermal insulation

You can increase the service life of the bath if you follow detailed instructions for floor installation. This will avoid heat leaks and rotting floorboards, as well as minutes of other unpleasant consequences.

To install the bath, follow the instructions below:

The floor for the shower is done a little differently:

1. Make a separate foundation for washing room. This ensures that the floor in it will always be warm and dry quickly.
2. Remove the soil layer (0.5 m), make a sand and gravel cushion 10 cm thick in this pit.
3. Make floor logs from asbestos-cement pipes, whose diameter is 100 mm. They can be laid on the foundation and poured with concrete mortar, which will keep them from moving.
4. Lay a round edged board 40-50 mm thick on the pipes. Leave gaps between them for rubber gaskets of about 6–7 mm. They are attached to the boards with nails.
5. Press the floor with skirting boards.

Video: how to make a drain in the bath floor

How to calculate and build walls

Now that the base has hardened, the floor is done, you can begin to build the skeleton of the walls of the bath. To start this work, the wood must be well dried. It is not recommended to take birch for these purposes, since it is subject to rapid decay.

Before proceeding directly to the construction of walls, it is recommended to carry out estimation material. At the same time, remember that it must be purchased with a margin. The construction of the walls takes place in the following order:

1. Start with the bottom strap. For its installation, purchase strong bars, the cross section of which is 100x100 mm. Connect them at the corners in a quarter, fasten them well with nails. To bottom trim and the attached corner posts did not work, place them on 20 mm thick steel pins that need to be embedded in concrete.
2. The beam of the same section is used to create the upper trim.
3. For greater rigidity of the frame, install eight braces in the corners of the bath.
4. Along the perimeter of the walls, place intermediate racks from the same beam that was used to make the strapping.

In order not to work at height, experts recommend constructing and fastening the frame of the walls on the ground, and then simply lift them, insert them into place and secure. It's much more convenient and faster.

How to install a truss system

For the construction of the roof frame, it is necessary to prepare boards with a section of 150x50 mm. They are placed on the edge and fastened to each other. The distance between the rafters should be 100–120 mm. In a vertical position, fix them with “kerchiefs”, connect them from above with a ridge.

Outside, about 400 mm of beams must be left.

For the roof sheathing, boards of 250 mm are suitable. Fix them in the direction from the ridge down.

The rafters are fastened with special metal plates.

For ease of installation, assemble the entire "skeleton" of the roof on the ground, and then hoist it into place, as is the case with walls.

Proper and practical insulation: detailed instructions

The frame structure is very light, therefore, the insulation must also be appropriate in order to avoid deformation of the walls.

When choosing a heater for a bath, you must adhere to several rules:

• the material must have good thermal insulation properties;
• its properties should not disappear when exposed to high temperature and humidity;
• there should be no release of toxic substances;
• it must be fireproof.

Table: which insulation to choose

Photo gallery: types of thermal insulation material

Expanded polystyrene cannot be used near the oven. You can make sawdust-gypsum mixture yourself Reed slabs are natural insulation Mineral wool slabs do not change their properties under the influence of high temperature and humidity

Bath warming steps

It is worth insulating the walls of the bath at the stage of building walls. Thermal insulation material is laid in the gaps between the load-bearing parts of the building frame. Waterproofing is laid on top of it. Thus, a “pie” is obtained, in the center of which there is a heater, outside - waterproofing, on both sides - lining.

Experts advise laying insulation in two layers, one of which comes in the form of plates, and the second in a roll. Thus, all unnecessary gaps are removed, and the bath will be really well insulated. It should be noted that these materials have an inner and outer side.

Insulation options around the stove

This is the place where the temperature reaches its highest point. Therefore, the walls here should be additionally protected from fire. Some use asbestos plates for this. Others feel that this material is not very useful for human body and recommend using basalt or isolon. But all types of materials perfectly cope with exposure to high temperatures, protect the walls of the bath from unpleasant consequences.

Floor and ceiling insulation

This work can be done in several steps:

1. Tamp the soil carefully. Pour a concrete screed base on it.
2. Lay a layer waterproofing material(roofing material or dense polyethylene).
3. Install thermal insulation.
4. Cover again with a layer of waterproofing.
5. Pour upper layer concrete screed.

Thus, you will make a draft floor. It can be additionally worked out with waterproofing solutions, after complete solidification. This will additionally protect the floor from moisture ingress through microcracks in the concrete and extend the service life.

The ceiling is insulated using the same technology as the walls:

Waterproofing

In addition to the fact that the walls need to be insulated, they also need to be protected from moisture. Two reasons contribute to this:

1. From exposure to moisture, any insulation to varying degrees begins to lose its thermal insulation qualities. And for a bath, this is not very good.
2. Heat-insulating materials dry for a long time after contact with moisture. From this, mold and rot can appear, which can go to the frame.

As a vapor barrier material, you can use:

• aluminum foil (it not only protects against moisture, but also reflects heat);
• glassine, which is environmentally friendly, is inexpensive;
• polyethylene.

Roofing material can be used as waterproofing. But it is not recommended for finishing the bath, because under the influence of high temperatures it begins to smell unpleasant.

The vapor barrier material must be laid with an overlap, and the joints must be glued with metallized adhesive tape.

Video: what mistakes can be made when laying vapor barrier

External and internal decoration of a summer or winter bath

The frame should not only serve you for a long time, but also be beautiful in appearance.

The interior lining must not only be beautiful, but also withstand high temperatures and humidity. Lining from conifers wood works great for this. Just don't use it in a steam room as it can release tar. Larch lining is more suitable here.

Linden is a great option for finishing the ceiling and making shelves and deck chairs.

Video: how much and what you need to spend money on when building a bath

From what to build a bath? Many, without hesitation, will answer that from a bar or a log. Indeed, this material has been tested for centuries, but it has a number of features that must be kept in mind before construction. Firstly, high-quality wood is not cheap now, and saving on its quality means dooming yourself to constant filling of gaps. Secondly, construction becomes more expensive due to the need monolithic foundation for a heavy building. Thirdly, you will have to wait a year until the bath shrinks, and only after that you start Finishing work. It won't be long before you get steamed up. Is there an alternative? Yes, this is a frame bath, which is easy to build with your own hands.

Benefits of frame construction

A frame bath has several advantages over those built from timber or logs.

1. Construction will cost about 2 times cheaper. Savings will be on almost everything, from to the purchase of materials.
2. In addition to material, there is a saving of time and labor costs. A bath using frame technology in the warm season can be built in a few weeks. It is also not necessary to involve a professional team: you can get by with 1-2 assistants.
3. Frame construction does not shrink as much as wood. You can finish and use it immediately, and not wait 1-1.5 years.
4. A properly insulated frame bath is, in fact, a thermos, since the thermal conductivity coefficient y modern heaters 5-6 times lower than that of wood. The heat in it remains for a long time, and there are no cracks through which the wind can blow. Additional benefit - modern materials, used for sheathing, do not burn, therefore, the likelihood of a fire is lower.
5. Thanks to excellent thermal insulation, it warms up faster, in just 2-3 hours. Wood needs twice as much time to warm up. This entails significant savings in firewood, especially if you estimate their number per year.
6. The frame can be sheathed inside and out large quantity materials, so that the bath can be given unique look or, conversely, harmoniously combine it with other buildings on the site.

Bath plan

For the construction of a frame bath, it is important to draw up exact plan, as this will allow more rational use of materials and avoid errors.

• Before compiling it, you need to decide whether the steam room will be built-in or separate, for how many people it should be designed for. All other proportions of the structure will depend on the size of the steam room.
• First you need to take into account the location of the furnace and its type, since a separate foundation must be poured under it, in the case of a brick one, or the floor frame must be strengthened, in the case.
• Take into account the connection of communications to the bath. Decide whether you will connect it to the sewer on the site. If there is no possibility of supplying water, then you need to consider a place for the tank.
• Plan auxiliary rooms, as their area and number will affect the thermal insulation of the steam room.
• Choose a roofing material in advance, as its type will affect the thickness and number of rafters.

After all these questions have been answered, a plan can be drawn up. Usually a frame bath consists of a vestibule, a dressing room, a washing room and a steam room. If the area allows, you can equip a rest room. When designing, it must be taken into account that in order to preserve heat, all doors must open inwards. Can be used ready standard plan, of which there are many on the Internet, or purchase a professionally designed one from construction companies.

Preparatory work and foundation

Like any construction, the construction of a bath begins with the removal of the fertile layer of soil, tamping the rest and marking under the foundation. At the same stage, it is necessary to lay water pipes, and if it is decided to connect to the sewer, then sewer.

The type of foundation frame bath is selected taking into account several factors: the soil on the site, the number of floors in the building and total weight buildings, which depends on the material chosen for the roof and frame beams. For a structure with a corrugated roof and a frame made of timber on the ground with slight heaving, they are limited to pile or, for example, using plastic or asbestos-cement pipes.

materials

For the construction of a frame bath, a not too extensive list of materials is required.

1. To assemble the frame, you can use a bar or a special metal profile. The construction of the timber is more popular, it weighs less and is easier to assemble. The most optimal one is with a section of 5 * 10 cm for intermediate supports and 10 * 10 for corner posts and two strapping belts. The quantity is calculated according to the drawing. Boards 2-3 cm thick and 10-15 cm wide for interior cladding and ceilings.

2. The frame is sheathed with OSB or DSP, preferably moisture resistant. It is worth deciding on the sheathing material even during the design, since the frame racks are located at a distance of one plate from each other, so that the joint falls on the beam. OSB is preferred due to the fact that working with them will require the same material as for wood, while DSP is cut only with a grinder.

3. Use as a heater mineral wool(URSA 100 mm or equivalent), fiberglass or styrofoam. The latter can be used only for those rooms where strong heating does not occur (dressing room, rest room), since when the temperature rises, it releases harmful substances. The thickness of the insulation must match the thickness of the timber used for the frame.

4. In addition to insulation, steam and waterproofing is needed. It is not recommended to use roofing material, since when heated, it begins to smell specifically. The roofing material is used only for laying between the foundation and the lower trim and for external waterproofing.

5. It is better to choose natural material for interior lining - wooden lining, it will create the effect of a steam room in a bath from natural wood — .

6. Outside, the frame bath can be sheathed with a block house, clapboard, stone or lined with brick.

7. Brick or metal sheets to protect the wall and floor near the stove from sparks.

8. Fasteners (corners, plates), wood screws, nails.

Frame erection

The frame is erected after the foundation has completely frozen. Roofing material and logs for the subfloor are laid on it, and then they begin to assemble the lower strapping belt. Previously, the timber must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic. The evenness of the walls depends on how horizontal the bottom trim is, so you must constantly use the level when laying beams and laying from thin boards or roofing. Between themselves, the timber is fastened with metal plates, and it is attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. The correct assembly of the lower harness can be checked by comparing both diagonals, they should be equal.

Walls, exterior and interior, are easier to build from frames that are assembled on the ground. The corners and sides of each frame are carefully measured. The parts are fastened “in half a tree” and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws and corners and metal plates. In the logs, grooves are made for the installation of intermediate beams. The distance between the beams is affected by the width of the material with which the frame will be sheathed. So, for OSB sheets 120 cm wide, the gap between the beams will be 60 cm. Additional racks are mounted under the windows and near the doorways. The frames are attached to the bottom trim and interconnected. Another strapping belt is assembled from above, and boards for overlapping are laid on top of it.

warm walls

Wall "pie" for a frame bath is as follows:

• lining,
• inner lining,
• vapor barrier,
• stop heater,
• waterproofing,
• outer skin of the frame,
• facing material for walls.

After the frame is erected, the inner lining is made of boards 2-3 cm thick. The preferred species are linden, aspen, larch, they are not subject to decay and are not deformed by moisture. Boards are nailed with two nails to vertical beams. As a finishing material, wooden lining is most often used, which, among other advantages, strengthens the structure.

For vapor barrier, you can use glassine or a special film coated on one side with foil. The foil is placed towards the room, so it will warm up faster. Vapor barrier during the construction of a frame bath is necessary, since it is necessary to prevent condensation and moisture from entering the walls from the inside of the structure.

Behind the vapor barrier is located. It must completely fill the space between the beams and be equal in thickness to them, so thermal insulation will be provided at the proper level. Further, waterproofing is attached to the beams, for which a special film is used. The roofing material is also acceptable, since with well-thermally insulated walls, the heating from the steam room will not affect it.

Then it is sheathed from the outside. Sheets of DSP or OSB are attached to the beams. If the project is drawn up correctly, there are no problems at this stage. Outside, the bath can be sheathed with clapboard, siding, block house or boards to give it a traditional look.

Roof and floor

The roof can be of any design, but is traditionally built gable with truss system. When building a bath, it is desirable to provide good ventilation roofs. If a vertical racks located every 60 cm, then the frame can withstand such a load. The insulation of the ceiling is also whitened Special attention, the space between the floors is filled with mineral wool, expanded clay or sawdust. Like walls, the ceiling must be protected by a layer of vapor barrier.

In a frame bath, the floor is made using the same technology as in a wooden one.

Important note

Although modern materials are characterized by low flammability, a lot of wood is still used in the bath. Fire safety requirements must be taken into account: the wall near which the stove will be located must be made of bricks, they also need to lay out a platform around it or close the adjacent walls and floor with metal sheets.

Frame technology is a great option for those who want to build a bath at low cost, but without sacrificing functionality and durability.

Certainly, ideal option the construction of the bath is a bath from wooden log cabins, but if this option is too expensive or complicated for you, you can go the simpler way and use frame technology construction.

This "democratic" option will make it possible to save on materials, and the construction process itself will last about 10 days and will not require any special knowledge and skills from you. Have frame structure and other benefits that make it increasingly popular with private sector homeowners:

• firstly, the frame structure is much lighter than brick or log buildings, therefore it does not require the construction of a reinforced foundation even on wet soils;
• secondly, the materials used for the construction of the frame retain heat in the premises;
• thirdly, the construction of the frame, as well as its sheathing and finishing, takes a minimum of time;
• fourthly, the materials for a frame bath are much cheaper than, for example, for a log bath.

Below will be described some features and the sequence of erection of a frame bath. Subject to the installation technology, such a bath will not be inferior in quality even to chopped or brick.

We build a frame bath with our own hands. Construction stages

First you need to decide on the location of the building and its plan and size. For a steam room, an area of ​​\u200b\u200b2.5x2.5 m2 is considered to be the minimum; it makes no sense to make it smaller, because otherwise it will be cramped and inconvenient to use. To determine the size of the dressing room and sink, the placement of a bench and a shower in them, respectively, are taken into account. Also, the size of the building depends on the number of people who can simultaneously accommodate it.

We make the foundation of the bath and the lower harness

As mentioned earlier, the foundation for a frame bath, you can choose the simplest design - columnar. For its arrangement, asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 100 or 200 mm and a length of 4 m are suitable. The number of such pipes depends on the building area and amounts to several tens. Pipes cut in half are installed in the ground in wells previously made with a gas drill. The diameter of the wells is 200 mm, and their depth is about 1.5 m. The pipes installed in the wells are covered with sand, and the sand is carefully compacted. Next, the pipes must be poured with concrete mortar. To prepare it, you need to mix 1 bucket of M200 cement, 4 buckets of pre-sifted sand, 7-8 buckets of fine crushed stone and water. The resulting solution is filled with wells with pipes installed in them.

After arranging the foundation, a lower trim of the structure is installed on it, made of timber 150x150 or 150x100 mm, interconnected with nails. We install logs on the finished harness, which are made of boards 150x50 mm. Since the harness is not located high above the ground, it is necessary to take care of its waterproofing. To do this, a waterproofing layer of roofing material is laid under the strapping and logs. The dimensions of individual pieces of roofing material are about 0.2x0.2 m. To obtain a more rigid and solid construction strapping boards and logs are attached directly to the foundation pipes. To do this, metal plates must be attached to the pipes in advance. After installing the log and strapping, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic to protect against moisture and insects. Impregnation is applied in several layers according to the instructions. The resulting design is left for some time until completely dry. Only after that you can start building the walls of the bath.

From boards with a section of 150x50 mm, racks of the structure frame and details of the future truss system are made. They are made according to a pre-designed scheme and installed in designated places.

The wall installation sequence has three stages:

• two racks are installed in the corners, and several intermediate ones between them;
• starting from the corner, the installation of sheathing material, for example, sheets of oriented strand boards (OSB), begins. Installation consists in fastening the sheets to the frame racks with screws. The position of the sheets is constantly monitored by the building level;
• in parallel with the installation of the sheets, the subsequent racks are being installed, to which the sheathing is also attached.

Thus, installing racks and fixing OSB sheets on them, and the installation of the entire frame structure is carried out. Do not forget about window and doorways within the walls of the building.

To equip the roof of the bath, they are first assembled on the ground roof structures according to the developed template, which then rise up and are attached to the frame racks. To create more comfortable conditions work on installing the roof structure, a temporary ceiling is attached to the beams. On the last truss, obtained in this way, the fastenings of the OSB sheets for the pediment of the building are marked. To ventilate the roof between the rafters and the counter beam, you need to lay a layer of a special film. The roof sheathing must be attached directly to the rafters. As a roofing material, you can choose slate, metal profile or ondulin. When rafter system and roofing material are mounted, OSB sheets of the desired shape are attached to the gables of the building.

Finishing the frame bath

After the construction of the main frame of the bath is completed, windows and doors are mounted in the corresponding openings in the walls.

Next, proceed to the interior decoration. The ceiling can be made from OSB sheets, which are attached to the beams from below. The ceiling is insulated with a layer of the selected insulation, which is cut into sheets, 50x600x1000 mm in size, in three layers. In the same way, the walls around the perimeter are also insulated. In the walls of the steam room, in addition to the insulation, a layer of “screen” foil is also laid. From above, the insulation is closed with glassine.

For the floor, you can use boards that were previously used for temporary overlap during the installation of the roof. They are removed from the beams and nailed to the logs.

The steam room is usually equipped with a stove-heater, and is located in the dressing room near the common wall with the steam room. Between the premises of the steam room and the rest room there should be Brick wall as required by fire safety regulations. Brick is used ordinary building.

Finishing inside the bath and outside can be carried out in parallel, which saves time and effort. Already at the construction stage, frames can be made internal partitions and mount materials on them finishing, such as a wagon or a blockhouse. Interior decoration depends on the purpose of the room: a blockhouse is suitable for a rest room, for other rooms - wooden lining. In the dressing room, you can organize an exit to the attic by making a hatch in the ceiling and installing a ladder.

In the steam room, the ceiling is additionally insulated and upholstered with clapboard made of natural wood. This will significantly reduce the height of the ceiling, which, according to the norms, can drop to 2.1 m. When choosing a material for lining, it is better to give preference to linden. From it you can also make shelves in the steam room.

The whole construction process will not take too much time. For a team of 3 people, 10 days will be enough to build their own bathhouse.

If you break it down by day, you get:

• the first 3 days will be spent on arranging the foundation;
• 3 more days - for mounting the harness and log;
• 2 days - for the installation of the truss system;
• 2 days - installation of roofing material, windows and doors, finishing work.

Small frame bath in the country. Video