How to build a budget bath in the country. Do-it-yourself frame bath construction with a photo report How to make a do-it-yourself bath photo report

A fireplace is a heating device that can not only warm its owner, but also give the room a very cozy atmosphere. But given heating equipment It has a rather complex structure that requires careful maintenance. In addition, the device is powered by either fire or electricity, so if handled incorrectly, it can lead to a serious accident. In this regard, I would like to talk about the basic rules for using a fireplace, as well as discuss some options for cleaning it.

Increasingly, the owners of private houses prefer to install a fireplace for heating and for decorative purposes. Someone tries to build a fireplace with their own hands, others hire specialists who do the work from scratch. Finishing the fireplace is the final stage in the construction of the stove, which anyone who has minimal experience in construction work is able to handle. BUT ceramic tile- the most popular and correct choice of finishing material for the fireplace.

The traditional form of kiln decoration is currently brick. However, the brick has one drawback: the brick is not suitable for every interior. There is another way to decorate the stove, adding to it not only decorative qualities, but also practicality and functionality: finishing the stove with tiled tiles. If you - creative person, it will not be difficult for you to make a tile tile with your own hands. In other cases, the owner of the house always has the opportunity to purchase ready-made tiles, all that remains is to install the tiled tiles.

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If you have your own piece of land, then one of the objects can be a do-it-yourself bath. Projects, photos and features of construction work are presented on our website. For construction, you can choose any interesting option or project from our review.

So, in order to build a quality building, you need to consider the following points:

• pick the perfect project
• think over each stage of work;
• purchase suitable material;
• plan all communications;
• important point is the interior decoration.

A beautiful bathhouse on the site can be not only a functional building, but also a luxurious element. landscape design

To make the bath correctly and correctly choose the place of its placement, you need to adhere to all the norms of SNiP. Important attention should be paid to the material for the construction of the building. The choice of location must be made taking into account certain distances in relation to other objects.

Before building a bath, consider the features of the site: design, climatic conditions and soil characteristics features of the local landscape area and soil properties. If the territory is uneven, then it is better to build on an elevated area, as this will ensure optimal water flow. It is not necessary to install such a building on sandy ground. In any case, the foundation should be strengthened. The harder the soil layer, the better. Most often, the construction of such buildings is planned on the leeward side of the main buildings. This placement protects from heavy rainfall.

• often used and budget wood concrete. At the same time, the building is warm and durable.

Bath from a bar

How to build such buildings depends on the material options. Projects can be carried out from the following materials:

• natural wood;
• edged timber;
• glued beam;
• profiled timber;
• rounded log.

There are several ways to build a bath with your own hands. A simple version can be seen in the video:

Most often, construction is carried out with the help of rounded logs and timber. A log bath is a simpler option than rounded logs. is a cheaper material than logs. The construction of the timber is carried out using.

When deciding how to make a building out of timber, you must follow some rules. This building is related to light buildings, so you can use a shallow or non-buried foundation.

How to properly and what kind of foundation to make depends on the type of soil. For clay and swampy soil the columnar option will not work. In this case, or are used.

Before deciding how to lay the timber, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing. To do this, a layer is distributed on the surface of the foundation, and a sheet of roofing material on top. Then the second layer is applied. And the boards adjacent to the foundation are treated with antiseptic solutions. So we build a bath, regardless of whether it is small or large. A common type of construction work small bath from a half-beam.

When deciding how to build a sauna yourself, you must first choose high-quality wood. The material is most often harvested from December to March. Blanks 150×150 or 100×150 are made from felled trees. At the same time, they must be cleaned of bark. It is important to inspect the material before construction work. It should not show signs of decay or cracks. The wood should be smooth and even. When choosing bars, drawings and dimensions must be prepared in advance. In this case, the purpose of the material is important, for example, a floor made of edged boards. At self erection you need to know how step-by-step construction is carried out and how to connect logs 3x4 or 4x4.

It is important to know how to install 50x150 boards on edge, as well as options for increasing the length. There are such connection options as in the paw and in the oblo. For a structure made of profiled timber, the oblo method is suitable, in which the connection is made when creating lock grooves.

Frame bath in the country

Consider a variety of projects on . The walls are lattice structures. For the walls you will need:

How to build such a structure depends on the main project. This construction technology has many advantages. This is a high installation speed and low labor intensity. According to the reviews - this is an economical construction. The finished building is characterized by rapid heating of the premises. A mini bath or even a 4x6 or 6x6 design does not require prolonged shrinkage. There is also a large selection of materials, both for interior and for exterior finish. Can be used different option foundations, for example, tape or on piles.

How to make such a design demonstrates a photo report, where the photo shows detailed diagram and features of the construction of such buildings. Such structures also have certain disadvantages. First of all, careful thermal insulation of such structures is required. Also, such structures have a short service life. Depending on the projects: 3×4, 2×4 or 3×5, drawings are selected. Finished project must contain working drawings with correct assembly constructions, with engineering communications and specification of materials.

We build a bath with our own hands: a brief description of the stages of construction

Any construction of a bath in the country requires careful planning. Before starting construction, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, you need a project, according to which marks are made on the ground. Where to start marking out the dimensions depends on where the corner of the building is located. This place is reporting from scratch. In this case, a peg is hammered, and the lengths of the sides are measured from it. Then compact pegs are installed and other walls are also measured.

The design of the bath and the dimensions are indicated in accordance with the project data. After that, the markup is made depending on the . When building a bath with your own hands from stone, brick or blocks, you need to level the foundation. At the same time, the roofing material is laid, and then on top.

How to build a building will depend on what material it will be built from - from boards or from. Specialists can show installation features. Useful videos can be found on YouTube.

If used brickwork, it should start from the corners. At the same time, on cement mortar the first blocks are placed. They must be in the same plane. If you don't know how to do this correctly, use a twine as a guide.

In the video below you can see a phased demonstration of construction work:

After installing the jumpers above the windows or doors, it is mounted, and then an armored belt is made. Foundation bolts are attached to this part. A simple or panel structure involves the construction of a wood frame. This element is sheathed and insulated with various types of finishing materials. To make the frame, boards made of aspen, linden or larch are used, since these options are characterized by low.

Wooden strapping from a bar is made on the foundation. At the same time, cuts are made at the ends of the bars and fastened to each other with self-tapping screws. For small bars, metal corners are used.

We note the main stages in the manufacture of the frame base:

Any sauna is exposed high humidity, so the steam room is treated with a vapor barrier film. This will protect against the accumulation of moisture from the inside. Fiberglass can be used as the insulating material. mineral wool. Such options provide an excellent level of sealing. Insulation and wall cladding is carried out after the installation of the roof. This approach will protect wood and insulation materials from getting wet.

Particular attention should be paid. Before choosing equipment for a bath, it is necessary to complete the construction work. The finished building is equipped with furniture and everything necessary equipment. A rustic bath can be made from various materials, but not from the croaker.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a bath: step by step instructions

How to build a sauna building depends on the type of foundation used. It is worth noting the following options:

• slab foundation is not often done. It is suitable for massive and complex buildings. The markup is made according to the dimensions of the building or a little more;
• can be done strip foundation for a bath 4 × 4 with your own hands. In this case, the marking is done so that the tape runs along the perimeter of the building;
• columnar is used for mounting wooden structures. Depending on the dimensions 3×4, 3×5 or 3×6, the marking is made according to the number of supports;
• . The advantage of this option is the ease of installation. With its help, installation on the foundation is possible even with an inclined section. Marking is carried out according to the number of piles.

It is even possible to build without a foundation. A shallow strip foundation can be used when the soil is hard and dry and the level is low. groundwater and the buildings are not very heavy. The shallow version is the simplest. Here are the main points to consider:

How the screw foundation is mounted can be seen in the video below:

Bath with a shower in the country: how to bring and drain water

Exist different ways how to equip a shower inside the bath with your own hands. There is even a dedicated step-by-step guide. The photo report demonstrates different options for installing a shower. The easiest option for cooling is to mount a simple wooden bucket on the wall. Water can be poured through water pipe with a faucet. In this case, no special heating is required. In the photo below you can see a shower with hydromassage jets. In this case, it is necessary to consider water heating, as well as pressure using pumping equipment.

The shower does not require a large area, it is enough to allocate a little space in the dressing room. Necessarily . It is necessary to equip the drain for the bath. You can also make an outdoor shower inside the bath. In this case, you do not need to equip a separate booth in the yard. Even in an already built building, you can find a corner for a washing room. But at the same time, you will need to build a drain in the bath.

Do-it-yourself instructions for building a bathhouse roof

When building a bath, you need to figure out how to mount the roof. The stages of such construction can be seen below:

Options for creating a roof may be different, but in any case, you need to consider waterproofing and thermal insulation. Without waterproofing, steam will pass into the attic, and settle on the rafters and beams. In this case, condensate can drain onto the insulation, which will affect the durability of the material. It is important to take into account some features of the buildings:

Organization of the internal equipment of the bath in the country

An important point is the arrangement of the interior. A variety of indoor photos will help you decide how to make the interior inside. Any projects should start with the installation. This design will reduce the concentration of hot air.

After the construction is completed, it is also done outside with your own hands. Another important point is . With insufficient ventilation, electrical heating will cause a decrease in oxygen levels.

It is necessary to remember about constant temperature control. Mercury thermometer must not be installed. Better buy a bath thermometer. To control the humidity is used -.

special attention deserves finishing inside. The most suitable material is wood. A good solution and an economy option is lining. Wall decoration should be done in pastel colors. It is worth considering the floor in the bath.

Step-by-step instructions include the stages of finishing work, as well as the layout of lighting and ventilation. should be of good quality. Also consider bathroom accessories. Walkthrough also provides for the arrangement of good sound insulation.

Article

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided on our own at our dacha. We already have a capital house there, and besides, there are no problems with electrification and water supply. The choice was made on frame construction, as it is not only economical, but also built in a matter of days.

Having prepared a project for a 4.5 x 4.5 m bath, I began to purchase timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro and vapor barrier. I also ordered the delivery of fireclay and ordinary red bricks, refractory clay for the furnace. By the way, I designed the sauna stove myself. An experienced master stove-maker helped me in laying, nevertheless, I wanted the stove to be as efficient and safe as possible. I drew up a scheme of the furnace on a sheet in a cage, I tried to shoot the construction process (including the construction of a house) in as much detail as possible so that my experience would be useful to other people.

Of course, building a bathhouse together is quite difficult, so at some points two more brave workers helped my son and me.

layout

To begin with, a draft of our future bath was drawn up. We thought over the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, and the location of the stove. According to the project, we calculated the location of the water supply and sewer pipes, the places for laying electrical cables. We decided to build a gable roof with a window on the pediment. There should be a place for an attic under the roof, where we will store tools or bath brooms. There will be two windows in total, not taking into account what is under the roof. One - as a light source in the relaxation room (120 x 120 cm), the other two for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and washing (90 x 60 cm). We will install a metal door, for greater security of property during our absence in the country.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden stairs and a gable canopy, also made of wood.

It was decided to build the foundation from asbestos-cement pipes. There are 24 columns in total, and 5 of them will hold the stove. In the future, a blind area will be laid around the foundation of the bath and a stormwater drain will be equipped, because I am not eager to go out into the damp, dirty yard after pleasant procedures.

We placed the bath in one of the corners of the site. Near a high fence and trees. An ideal place, in my opinion, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a font or a small font on the lawn near the bathhouse.

Foundation

The foundation, as I said, under our bath is columnar. First, with the help of mercenaries, we removed with shovels a layer of soil with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which markings began.

The first corner was marked by sticking a peg into the ground and aligning it with a plumb line. For further marking, a square and a five-meter tape measure came in handy. They tied a cord to the first peg, measured 450 mm, checked the angle and stuck two more pegs, respectively, denoting the second and third corners of the bath. Similarly, pulling the cord, set the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that we checked the corners with a square, the measurement of the diagonals showed slight inaccuracies. I had to correct them by slightly shifting the stakes and clearly leveling them.

The next step in the work was marking the location of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply sticking the reinforcement bars shallowly.

There will be one in the bath interior partition connected to the corner of the oven. Using a tape measure, my son and I took measurements and marked the position of one column, which will hold the partition and four more columns, which will later be under the stove.

After all the calculations and markings, it's time to drill holes for the foundation pillars. Under the ground, they will go one and a half meters and stick out of the ground for another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The pits were dug out quite quickly - the workers drilled with a gas drill, the son helped to carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was about 30 cm, that is, 5 cm more than the diameter of the asbestos-cement pipes.

To make the posts stand firmly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the pits, after which I tamped this backfill manual tamper. I made it myself, nailing a bar-handle perpendicularly to a long birch log. The principle is simple - he fell asleep gravel, took a log, lowered it into a pit and knocked it several times.

Sand and gravel were poured into each pit, tamped and placed pillars, under the stove - 5 pieces

The cement for the posts, my son and I kneaded in a small electric. They poured cement, sand, a little crushed stone, mixed and poured water. The columns were filled according to all the rules. First, the pipe was lowered into the pit, then the first layer of mortar was poured into it. We raised the pipe so that part of the glass solution was at the bottom of the pit, after which we lowered it, leveled it, and even then filled it with layers of 20-30 cm to the top. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Fortunately, the diameter of the log was smaller than the diameter of the pipes. In order not to stain the poles, concrete was poured through a narrow chute and a plastic funnel. It turned out neat enough. After pouring, we drove reinforcement rods (threaded studs) into the concrete. The top edge was left sticking out a little above the concrete in order to attach the bars later. bottom strapping. Lastly, sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and pipes. At this point, the construction work was temporarily completed.

After two days, having had a good rest, I took up the foundation for the furnace. I cut the chipboard sheet into 5 parts - 4 for the formwork walls and 1 for the bottom. I tried on the largest sheet on the support posts, then went to drill holes in it for the studs, and at the same time nailed the sides with nails. I put the resulting box with holes on the studs, prepared the nuts with washers and, leveling the sheet, slowly tightened the fasteners. From below, the formwork was supported by boards.

To make the foundation under the furnace stronger, I made a reinforcing cage. I found a welded mesh, cut out two pieces almost to the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be voluminous. Look at the diagram, it shows how the bars are arranged. Of course, ideally, not to use a welded mesh, but to independently tie individual rebars with soft wire. Such a connection is more plastic and almost never collapses.

In the formwork with laid reinforcing cage poured, mixed with a portion of fine gravel. There is nothing special to tell here - they filled it in, drove out air bubbles with a wire, rammed it, covered it with a film and left it to harden. This process is long, takes a whole month. My son and I did not wait, deciding during this time to make the frame of the bathhouse, the roof and some related work.

Before starting to lay the beams, I dug between the pillars of the sewerage and water supply pipes, so that later I would not have to crawl under the logs.

Bottom trim and subfloors

The bottom trim is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation posts. I took a well-dried beam, 15 x 15 cm, and processed Senezh. The humidity in the bathhouse is quite high, the wood without impregnation will simply begin to rot.

I connected the bars using the “paw” method. For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions. In the work I used a hacksaw and a grinder. First, he cut down all the ends, then laid out the beams in a clearing in front of the bathhouse and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying waterproofing on the foundation - he coated the tops of the pillars with bituminous mastic and glued pieces of roofing material on it.

To lay the harness on the foundation, I had to drill holes for the studs sticking out of the concrete. The beam was laid directly on the poles, markings were made in place, after which I already drilled. Having marked the first two beams, they laid them on the supports, checked with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, only after that they tightened the fixing nuts. By the way, we didn’t drill holes for intermediate pillars, we cut down the reinforcement so as not to interfere. The timber was screwed with nuts only at the corners of the bath. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition would be.

The time has come for laying the floor joists. To once again not to suffer with cutting down the bars, I purchased plates with holes for anchors.

I took the boards with a section of 150 x 50, sawed them and fastened them to the beams using the mentioned fasteners, self-tapping screws and a screwdriver.

From above, I sewed up the logs with OSB sheets. It turned out quite a solid draft floor.

Zero ready, subfloor - 22 mm OSB

Prices for OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

OSB (Oriented Strand Board)

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together with metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the posts should be from 60 cm to one meter, we did it, except for the fact that above and below the window lintels, the boards were installed somewhat closer to each other.

The walls are assembled on corners and iron self-tapping screws 45 mm

We made the assembly on the lawn near the bathhouse, so it was much more convenient to measure, cut and fix. The assembly is very simple - first the two upper and two lower boards are fastened, then the window rectangles are assembled, after which the missing lintels and supports are added. In addition, we strengthened the structure of the walls with braces. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, over three window and one door lintels we attached with self-tapping screws (we took galvanized, 45 mm) one more board (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed one by one, starting from the front. Alone and even together, it is very difficult to install the structure without distortions, so the assembly was carried out by five people - me, my son and three assistants. The walls were fastened to each other and from the floors with stainless nails 100 mm long, driven in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of strapping boards was laid and nailed over the walls. Such a method frame construction resembles a children's designer. We assembled and installed the walls in just three days.

rafters

The roof of our bath is gable with hanging rafters. In total, we made 11 trusses. The photo shows how we raised them to the roof.

Farms were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one truss and fastening the elements with perforated plates, I continued to work, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of the roof of my bath will be based on the boards of the upper trim, attached to it with corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in the places where the rafters will be in contact with the top trim, as well as to the ends of the rafters, where I cut off a corner for a more aesthetic appearance of the overhangs.

roof trusses

The truss truss, which acts as a pediment, was reinforced with four vertical slats, and I nailed two lintels in the center in order to install a ventilation window in the future.

Two extreme farms were assembled from only two boards each. We fixed these farms last. The photo shows the straps holding them. Thus, on the back of the bath and above the facade, we created small canopies.

Frame and almost finished roof

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Fasteners for rafters

Installation of metal tiles

I decided to cover the bath with Finnish metal tiles Pural matt, because its matte finish is the most resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Before installing the metal tile, I laid a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I fixed with thin slats directly to the rafters. Next, with a small gap, he fastened the boards of the crate.

On the crate, I nailed sheets of metal. Ordinary self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so I purchased special ones, painted to match the coating. I laid the metal tile in one row, adhering to the following scheme:

• the leaf was lifted to the roof with ropes;
• work began from the lower right corner. The first was aligned with the cornice and attached with special screws, and they were not screwed in completely so that it was possible to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed to the crate with screws;
• the last sheet of the row was fixed when the second row was laid.

Immediately, in order not to return to the roof several times, he cut the lining and hemmed the cornices.

Installation of a drainage system

Gutter mounted with assistants. I chose metal gutters because they are the most durable, although plastic ones are cheaper. I bought gutters with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bath is 5 meters each, the distance from the cornice to the blind area is 2.5 meters. Based on these data, I purchased two pipes with a length of 2.2 meters, two outlet funnels that fit the gutters, two drain elbows, 4 gutter plugs. Another 4 knees were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

The pipes are attached to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and 10 brackets, I will mount them on the eaves every meter. It also took four locks to fasten the three-meter gutters.

Work began with markup. I took a ladder, a tape measure, a marker, a thread and climbed under the roof. I needed to tighten the thread so that I can attach a gutter with a slope of 5 mm per 1 m, that is, with general bias 25 mm.

I attached two extreme adjustable brackets to the crate (15 cm retreated from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The remaining brackets were fixed so that they touched the thread. Next, I nailed the cornice bar to the crate.

By the way, I did all this work even before the installation of the metal tile, and laid the gutters directly when the entire coating was installed. I connected the pipes when they made the outer cladding of the walls of the house.

The gutters were connected with locks. I applied a sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of about 3 mm between the ends of the joined elements. Such a gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

In the gutters, I sawed holes in the shape of the letter V with a hacksaw, took the funnels and connected each, simply bringing the edges under the outer bend of the gutter, and then bending the flange to the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the gutter.

Installed plugs on the ends of the gutters. The drain elbow was fastened to the pipe with rivets. I didn’t buy the spider that is inserted into the funnel, I bent the wire myself so that it would trap debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and fastened with clamps, which are pre-nailed to the wall with dowels.

Bath wall cladding

For the external cladding of the walls of the bath, I chose Isoplaat slabs. They have good vapor permeability, and the material is natural. Plus, these plates are a stiffener for the walls of the bath. "Isoplaat" I took a thickness of 25 mm, cut it with a jigsaw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

Green plates - Isoplaat, vapor-permeable. Roof - metal tile Pural Matt

On top of the Isoplaat plates, I pulled the Izospan film. This material is also hydro- and windproof, but at the same time passes steam. I fastened the material with a stapler, overlapping horizontally and vertically by about 10 cm.

From the inside, I insulated the bath with basalt wool. The slabs had to be cut in places, because they did not fit into the space between the uprights. Additionally, I didn’t fasten the cotton wool with anything, it already lay quite tightly.

Already at this stage, my assistants began to make plumbing from polypropylene. This is clearly visible in the photo. I chose this hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, all of them will be hidden under the finish lining.

The outer decorative lining of the bath was made with clapboard. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, the bath, lined with wood, has a presentable appearance, and secondly, wooden lining allows the walls to “breathe” and condensate does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I stuffed thin wooden slats 3 cm wide and only half a centimeter thick directly onto the vapor barrier.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Drains for plinth

By the way, it was after I filled the slats and before the start of the installation of the lining that I began to install the ebb for the base. I took the green metal strips. I chose a width of only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bath. To fix the ebbs evenly, I first pulled the thread, checked the line with a level, and then proceeded with the installation from the far corner of the bath.

I took the first bar, in the center I marked a line across the profile with a pencil. 5 cm retreated from this line to the right and left, put dots and connected them so that a triangle formed. This triangle was cut out with scissors for metal, after which he bent the bar, attached it to the wall of the house and screwed in special self-tapping screws with washers. To make it clearer, I am attaching a schematic that I found on the Web.

The rest of the profiles around the perimeter fastened in the same way - just screwing in the screws and simultaneously checking the horizontal position. All joints were coated with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the slats, I additionally strengthened the basement ebbs with mounting foam - I applied it in a small amount under the slats.

Installation of lining

I decided to mount the lining using clamps. Of course, you can just nail the boards, but this is rather ugly.

My son and I simply pressed the first board against the wall, leveled it and fixed it with self-tapping screws, screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, clamps were inserted from above into the grooves of the first board of the lining (they were inserted next to the laths of the crate stuffed over the vapor barrier) and nails were driven into the existing holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Through the intermediate bar, both boards were tapped with a hammer so that they were tightly connected. Next, the clamps were inserted again and secured with nails. The rest of the boards were fastened in the same way, sawing off the excess in the window and doorways.

I just nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When I finished with the walls, I built a small over front door. In the future, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable, sheathed with metal tiles and installed a street lamp under a canopy.

Window

Windows are a different story. You need to install them, observing the technology and avoiding distortions. In the bath, windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also retain heat well.

I ordered the windows themselves in advance from one company, but installed everything. To begin with, I took a vapor barrier and waterproofing tape. I fixed the first one along the perimeter of the window frame from its inner side, the second - from the outside, that is, from the street. In the future, I will glue the edges of these tapes to Izospan.

I installed the frame, knocked out the plastic wedges-spacers to form a two-centimeter gap for the foam. Included with the windows were mounting anchor plates with holes, into which I screwed long self-tapping screws. After I foamed the gaps and checked everything with a level again.

By the way, when installing the sash, I shot only from one window - the largest one. I installed small windows without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a metal door so that ill-wishers would not enter my bathhouse in winter.

First, I took the door off its hinges to try on the box in the opening. All measurements were accurate and the box fit perfectly. I fastened the box with self-tapping screws through the eyes, after knocking wedges under it for alignment. The gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame filled with mounting foam, when it dried up, hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To arrange the ceiling, I took an ordinary larch edged board and carefully nailed it to the floor beams. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, I cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued already in the attic and after the sauna stove was built. I laid foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, basalt wool slabs on it, tightly inserting them between the floor beams. Over the cotton I pulled polyethylene film and secured it with tape. To finish, just nailed another layer edged boards. It remains only to make a hatch cover and fix the ladder. Fasteners were included, but I just screwed all the details to the floor beams.

I purchased a solid, retractable ladder, equipped with a ready-made manhole cover. However, so that this cover does not stand out on the ceiling, I carefully trimmed it with slats. It turned out well, the hatch in the closed form became almost imperceptible.

Wiring

I dealt with the issue of electricity thoroughly, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that I made the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, hidden, laying the wires at the stage of internal insulation of the walls of the bath and before finishing.

All wiring is in metal hoses, connections are in boxes at the terminals. In the shield, a common RCD for 30 mA, then 3 circuits

Electricity was pulled from the house through the air, since the distance is small. I screwed a hook into one of the walls of the bath, screwed the same one into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable was wrapped around.

The photo shows the clips that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted like this:

• the SIP wire is moved apart, a place is being prepared for the clamp;
• the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• wires "wedged";
• the anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

Sockets, switches (class IP-44) and a shield I installed in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets was 90 cm. In the steam room and washing room, I pulled wires only for lamps (I tried to do everything away from the stove), because it is too humid in these rooms and it is simply impossible to install sockets.

He took copper cables, pulled them through a non-combustible metal corrugation, which he fastened with clamps. In some places it was necessary to drill holes in the support beams in order to carry out the corrugation. I installed socket boxes when I sheathed the walls with clapboard. And the sockets themselves, switches and beautiful lamps (for the steam room I took with a heat-resistant cover, class IP-54) were installed last.

I do grounding. Grounding was done as expected - a triangle, vertical corners were scalded with a strip of 40 mm. RCD works "on time"

Grounding was done as expected - a triangle, vertical half-meter corners were scalded with a strip of 40 mm. To do this, I had to enlist the help of a familiar electrician, who found welding machine. A triangular trench was dug near the bathhouse. They drove a triangle welded from the corners into the ground. Then another section of the steel strip was welded, which was brought above the ground near the wall of the bath. An M10 bolt was welded to the end of the strip. Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the bath in order to lay a copper grounding conductor (I had 8 mm in diameter) from the ground to the switchboard. We wound the conductor on a bolt, closed the whole thing with a terminal box, and already a qualified electrician and part-time friend of mine was working on the shield.

The whole thing took about two hours. metal strip I treated it with bitumen so that it would not rust. I dug the ditches, tamped them down, next summer I will sow a lawn there.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and it is planned in the steam room water procedures, therefore, the installation of sewerage is a necessity. As an end point for collecting effluents, I provided drain well. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, tamped the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings in the pit. The joint of the rings was smeared with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - on the bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and the steam room. Another pipe was carried out from the position of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor, pipes were inserted into them. Three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe under a slight slope along a dug trench was laid to the well. The length of one pipe was not enough, I had to connect two straight segments with a coupling. All joints are silicone. At the bottom of the trench, I first poured sand, and I also filled the pipe with it after laying.

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. The neck was built of brick, and instead of a lid, he attached a metal hatch for gas cock. It is of small diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the level of runoff in the well and for pumping wastewater with a sewer. And there is no need to completely climb inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for a gas valve was installed. You can see the level and download. And there is no need to climb inside

Drainage ladders with siphons and filters were installed in the premises. Compact piece that fits right into sewer pipe. When choosing, I gave preference to a product with a metal grate, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grate itself is square with a round hole in the center; when laying the tiles, I did not have to fiddle with cutting for a long time. The drain was equipped in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.

Machine for sawing bricks - a grinder on a Chinese bed

Developed and designed by myself. The laying was carried out by the stove-maker, starting from my sketches. Work began before the finishing floors were arranged, the reasons, I think, are clear.

Roofing material was laid on the previously poured foundation and the first row of bricks was laid. In order to prevent distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. A level was used to check horizontality. Plumb lines were also stretched to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks, forming an ash chamber and an "appendix" needed to warm the bottom of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency of classic furnaces with an ash chamber, the area equal to the firebox.

Before installation, I wrapped the doors with asbestos cord and sealed with masking tape. I inserted a knitting wire into the existing holes, twisted it. The stove maker, in the process of laying bricks, placed the long ends of the twisted wire between the rows, which guaranteed a reliable installation of the doors.

In the fourth row, the ash pan was covered, the doors were finally fixed and part of the “appendix” was blocked. Here they laid a cast-iron grate, sawing rectangular cuts in bricks under it. The lattice (size 20 x 30 cm) lay down freely, with a gap of about 2 cm, necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

To make the overlap strong enough, the bricks were cut under the wedge. Metal corners were not used in the arrangement of the ceiling.

Between the fourth and fifth rows, and then every two rows, the stove maker advised to lay a reinforcing steel mesh.

Next, the master laid out the firebox, using yellow fireclay bricks for its walls. The ceilings and the firebox door were equipped according to the principle described above. The detailed laying process is visible in the photo. Fireclay bricks with triangular cuts were also installed in the furnace. These openings are necessary for the supply of secondary air, without which the afterburning of wood gases is impossible.

When laying gas (smoke) channels, as well as between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace, asbestos cardboard was laid. Note the overlap of the fireclay core. Bricks are hewn and installed "on edge".

Also in the photo are visible ledges of red brick, on which cast-iron bricks will be laid. And on top there will be stove stones. To make it clearer, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core indicating the position of the cast-iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. A fireplace portal facing the steam room will be installed on the right side of the stove. And the doors for cleaning and loading fuel go into the dressing room. Thus, smoke will never enter the steam room and carbon monoxide, and it will be possible to splash some water on the hot stones - “turn on the steam”.

Bath stove. Transition frame

Bath stove. fireplace portal

After covering the fireclay core and installing the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued without changes. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one on the 20-21st row. An overlap was formed over the distant smoke channel, a valve frame (bypass view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which ensured the free movement of gases, and above the near smoke channel, the stove-maker installed a chimney valve instead of overlap. The part was laid in pre-prepared cuts in bricks and fixed with chamotte clay and two dowels (holes in the bricks were drilled with a Pobedite drill).

Two rows later, another valve for the pipe was installed. There are three valves in total - two of them for the chimney and one bypass valve installed between the smoke channels (forward running).

Three gate valves - two per pipe and one bypass (forward stroke)

The photo shows the transition to a ceramic pipe, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each of the rows partially overhanging the one below. Above the fourth overhanging row of bricks, three more rows are laid out - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition, a cut is visible round shape in which the ceramic chimney, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

Also on the side machines of the furnace there are brick ledges necessary for the further arrangement of interior partitions.

Overlapping of the furnace was carried out under the ceiling. Metal corners were used, on which the final row of bricks was laid. Sheet asbestos was laid between the ceiling and the bricks.

The installation of the chimney itself (I took a ceramic Italian, Effi Domus for a bath) took quite a bit of time. The blocks were simply installed on top of each other, fixing was carried out with sealant and building clay mortar. A deflector was installed on top of the chimney to protect against precipitation.

The sauna stove was tested a few days later - several newspapers were burned. The traction is just great.

Later, when I was making a finishing floor, I laid a steel sheet with an ash receiver in front of the firebox. It’s easier to sweep this way, and the floor will not catch fire if an ember accidentally falls out.

All the brick that is left 🙂

Refractory brick prices

Refractory brick

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

We warmed up. The steam room and shower are tiled, and the dressing room is covered with laminate. First, I’ll tell you about the steam room and the shower room, there are much more important nuances.

tiling

The tile was bought with a matte finish and rough so that it does not slip. We decided that the tile is much better than the wooden floor - it does not rot, and it is easy to clean. Glue was purchased with the best indicators of moisture resistance.

Waterproofing was laid on the subfloor, overlapping the walls. On top of the waterproofing, insulation was laid - EPS (thickness 30 mm). For better adhesion of XPS with waterproofing, assembly glue was used.

A screed was poured over the insulation along the beacons with a slope towards the drain funnel. Before pouring the mortar, a reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid. The photo shows that we did not attach the beacons to the floor, but to the asbestos mortar - we laid out piles and pressed profiles into them. The solution (cement with sand) was mixed in a rented concrete mixer, because. it was important to pour the entire floor in one day. The solution was laid out from the bucket with a trowel on the grid between the beacons and leveled with a wooden plank - the rule. The floor was finally leveled with a wide spatula and grout.

The tiles were laid from the drain gutter to make it easier to observe the slope. Each was pre-soaked in water. The adhesive was applied with a notched trowel onto the dried and primed screed. At the same time, the entire surface of the floor was not immediately smeared with glue, but only the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The adhesive hardens quickly and should not be covered immediately. large area gender. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. I collected excess glue around the stacked elements with a simple narrow spatula.

First, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then parts along the walls. Cut the tiles with a manual tile cutter. By the way, for the accuracy of laying, we pulled the fishing line and used crosses for seams. And for better contact of the tile surface with the binder, immediately after laying, I lightly tapped each square of the tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

Installed very quickly. They laid the floor over the insulation with a film, nailed moisture-resistant plywood, rolled out the substrate.

Opened the package with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it, turning it with a small ledge to the wall. Inserted 2 plastic wedges between the wall and the plank. He took the second bar, snapped it into the end groove of the first. Aligned, again framed the wedges. When I got to opposite wall, cut off an extra piece of laminate panel with a circular saw. From the cut and started next row. The second row was assembled in the same way as the first, after which he lifted the entire floorboard at an angle of 45 degrees and carefully connected it to the latch of the first row, and then knocked it out with a mallet through the bar. The last row had to be cut lengthwise, accurately measuring the cut line.

Walls

The walls, as can be seen in the photo report, are lined with clapboard or tiled. About everything in order.

tiling

We sheathed the walls over the insulation with moisture-resistant GVL. Self-tapping screws were taken for fastening. They were screwed in with a step of 25 cm and retreating slightly from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints fell on the beams of the frame.

In the steam room, it was decided to make a plinth from tiles, so I had to purchase two sheets moisture resistant drywall, cut them neatly into strips and screw along the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the drywall was already attached to the fixed foil (vapor barrier).

In the shower, the first row was laid from floor tiles. I had to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

He applied glue with a spatula to the wall, applied and tapped the tile with a mallet. I inserted crosses between adjacent tiles so that the seams were the same. The plane and horizontality were checked with a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were already laid from tiles of a different color.

In some tiles it was necessary for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made markings with a pencil, checked the accuracy of the position of the hole with a ruler and square, after which the drill went into action. First, I drilled a hole with a spear-shaped drill. To prevent the tile from cracking, I glued a piece of masking tape on top. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle to a circular one. I immediately purchased a tungsten carbide crown for this purpose. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the entire finishing process.

Excess glue was immediately removed with a rag during the masonry process until the composition dried up. The seams under the grout turned out to be even and neat.

A day after finishing the walls with tiles, he took up the seams. To begin with, I pulled out all the crosses. The grout took two colors - white and dark brown. For the bath, I picked up a two-component epoxy composition. It's not the cheapest, but it's perfect for wet areas. I mixed the grout components in one bucket, I did not add water.

Before application epoxy grout I slightly moistened the wall with a spray bottle. He collected the mass on a spatula, after which he distributed it along the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula was held at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. I leveled the grout 30 minutes after its application, using a rubber spatula. Well, in the end, when the seams dried up, I washed the walls with soap and water.

Lining - installation

The walls in the GVL steam room were not sheathed. They pulled the foil vapor barrier, fixed it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I also glued the joint of the ventilation pipe with foil well with tape. On top of the foil, I carefully stuffed the slats - the crate.

I want to draw readers' attention to the horizontal position of the wooden planks. I deliberately arranged them so as to avoid capillary rise of moisture along wooden wall and achieve good air circulation, necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if, from constant dampness, the lining led or it rotted after a couple of years. Still, we build a bath from the heart and for a long time. I also want to say that horizontal mount allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining is located vertically on the walls, you will have to disassemble half of the wall.

At first I just wanted to nail the boards, but then the choice again fell on the kleimers. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, there will be black smudges on the walls.

I treated all the planks with Neomid impregnation so that the wood would not rot. And for fastening the first and last planks, I purchased copper-plated finishing studs.

Installation started from the ceiling. Stepped back 3 cm, attached a bar, nailed a nail to the center. I drove one more nail on both sides of the board, after which I checked the horizontal level with a level. I assembled the lining so that the spike was on top and the groove was on the bottom. This is important, because if you sheathe the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and lead it.

From below, I inserted clamps into the groove of the first board, each of them was nailed with three nails to the crate. I inserted the second forcing panel with a spike into the groove. Lightly tapped with a hammer from the bottom up so that there were no gaps, after which I inserted the kleimers and nailed them. So collected to the floor. I cut the last bottom plank lengthwise so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. I inserted the board into the spike of the penultimate board, nailed it. Along the way, I drilled holes for wiring and often checked the levelness. I closed all the nails of the first and last panels wooden plinth, and installed vertical strips in the corners for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I talked about how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the stove is ready, it remains to make the shelves in the bath. For work, I took lime boards and pine blocks. I drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long self-tapping screws, metal mounting angles, a hammer and nails.

First, I marked the bars, cut them with a grinder. The ends of the horizontal bars, which will be connected to the front vertical struts, I cut off according to the tenon-groove principle. That is, he made a “thorn” on the horizontal bars, and on vertical racks"groove".

First I screwed the support posts to the wall. I want to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor, it is necessary to leave a gap of up to two centimeters. I attached the crossbars to the support posts. I just took the mounting bracket and nailed it under the horizontal bars at the point of their connection with the support posts. Thus, I nailed the bars on which the boards and bars will lie for stability.

Similarly, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which I laid the boards on the frame and fixed them with self-tapping screws. For convenience, I cut off the protruding sharp edges, carefully sanded the boards and the frame so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

By its principle, it is similar to the installation of the front door. There is a glass door in the steam room, a wooden one in the dressing room. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The joints are sawn at an angle of 90 degrees. First fixed side planks and top using nails. Then I inserted plastic wedges and several spacers between the elements of the box, blew mounting foam. When it dried up a little, I carefully nailed the side strips of the door frame with carnations, which closed the gap and a layer of foam.

I did not photograph the process itself, so I am attaching a picture-diagram for clarity.

The hinges were included, I attached them to the box and the canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs evenly. Then it remains only to hang the door on the hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a bucket for pouring on the wall, there is a urinal, a shower and a faucet with a spout. The sewerage and hot/cold water pipes were installed at the stage of laying the foundation and building the walls. Now we will talk directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower room, urinal

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose a compact wall-mounted model with a faucet instead of a cistern, brought it in, unpacked it, put it against the wall to make markings. The urinal has mounting holes, it was their location, as well as the outline, that we marked on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product was evenly attached to the wall.

According to the markup, holes for dowels were drilled.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we tried it on for the outlet of the sewer pipe, after which we connected the pipe and the siphon with a special pipe. The end of the pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped with linen thread and smeared with red lead.

The urinal faucet is very easy to install. The part is joined to the urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is adjusted by rotating the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewage, I missed the joint between the faience and the wall with plumbing sealant and checked the performance of the entire system.

A little about the pouring bucket. This is a wonderful device that rotates when you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket does not allow it to overflow. The frame of the bucket is fixed with dowels, and the water is supplied through a flexible hose.

They are installed according to the same principle. The package already has everything you need, you only need an adjustable wrench and a Unipack or Moment plumbing tape. I took the eccentrics out of the box, screwed them into the hot / cold water pipes, then took the level and adjusted them horizontally, while bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next step was the installation of the product itself. A thread was wound on the eccentrics, rubber gaskets were put on, then I put the mixer on and screwed the union nuts on the eccentrics.

Sharing another video that I watched before installing the faucets.

basement siding

To make the bath look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to cover the foundation posts with basement siding panels. To fix it, metal strips are required to create the crate. Even a drywall profile will do. I want to note that at first I filled in the blind area and made a boardwalk from the side of the facade, and only then I fixed the crate and panels. Otherwise, it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

To fasten the crate (the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring), I used self-tapping screws and corners (I just cut pieces of the drywall profile to make corners). With a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled in a matter of hours, the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and fix the horizontal profiles according to the level (for convenience, I used a level and pulled a guide cord).

I fastened the panels with self-tapping screws, screwing them in about every half meter. Masking elements are fixed in the corners in the same way. In the panels, I immediately made square cuts and installed ventilation grilles (fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners) - 2 grilles on each side of the bath.

blind area

I poured between the foundation of the bath and the fence. Immediately laid a drainage gutter with a grate. The order is as follows:

We have plank flooring in front of the front door. They just stuffed boards into three parallel bars, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and laid them at the front door.

Larch flooring. Plinth - plastic panels "under the stone".

Finishing touches

In order for the bathhouse to take on a finished look, we equipped the porch with a canopy and a makeshift staircase. The height of the steps at the stairs is 18 cm, the parts were assembled on mounting brackets and self-tapping screws.

From the gate to the entrance I made, near the bath I managed to collect a compost box and a decent firewood rack. We brought furniture inside the bathhouse, hung shelves and curtains there, hung brooms. In the future, I plan to equip a front garden near the bathhouse and build an outdoor barbecue.

When there is not enough money, but there is an irresistible desire to have your own steam room, then self-assembly frame bath- perfect solution. The quality and design of such a structure practically does not differ from classical structures made of wood, stone or brick. Due to the presence of some advantages, this design causes an increase in demand for frame-panel products. Probably any owner own house wants to build a practical and high-quality bath as quickly as possible with a small financial investment, which for many years will fulfill its purpose.The following is a photo report on the construction of a frame bath.

1. Advantages of a frame bath.

2. Details requiring special attention.

3. Building a frame bath with your own hands:

3.1. We lay the foundation.

3.2. We build walls.

3.3. We install the roof.

3.4. We carry out interior and exterior decoration.

Advantages of a frame bath

Chopped wood has been used for the construction of baths since time immemorial. Today this traditional way has lost its relevance, because it was replaced by a completely different technology: the construction of frame baths with their own hands, which have a number of advantages. Let's designate them:

• maximum erection speed;
• minimum financial investments for construction and further maintenance;
• the ability to install in any season;
• no shrinkage of the foundation;
• excellent masking of electrical consumers, cables and pipes;
• all sorts of ways of internal, external design.

Details requiring special attention

Firstly, when building a frame-panel bath, you should choose high-quality wood. You need to make sure that the boards are properly dried. They use such types of wood that have low thermal conductivity: aspen, larch, linden and others. During operation, boards made of this wood are not subject to deformation.

Secondly, when installing a frame-panel bath, it is necessary to take care of high-quality vapor barrier, because a significant drawback of frame construction is the presence of condensate: moisture from rains and snowfalls penetrates into the structure through cracks and joints. Therefore, you need to worry about the arrangement of vapor barrier in advance. As an insulating material, waterproofing films or glassine are used, mounted between the outer skin and the insulation. It is not recommended to use roofing material, because when the temperature rises, it emits an unpleasant odor.

Thirdly, it is impossible to build such a structure without arranging thermal insulation. High-quality thermal insulation is a guarantee of ensuring normal air exchange in the room, as well as its sealing. Mineral wool or fiberglass is used as the main material. They effectively cope with their duties, because they have excellent performance characteristics.

Building a frame bath with your own hands

It is necessary to carefully work out a plan for future construction, because half the success depends on it. After determining the place for the building, analyze the soil, mark the location of the stove, chimney, ventilation system on the diagram, select the material that will be used to equip the roof.

Laying the foundation

Due to the fact that the weight of such a structure is relatively small, its base is simple. It is economically feasible to make a columnar foundation, which is based on asbestos pipes filled with cement mortar.

Direct production of the base:

• need to purchase asbestos-cement pipes diameter 100 mm2, length 40 m;
• wells are being drilled with a depth of 1.5 m and a diameter of 200 mm2;
• pipes are cut in half;
• sand is poured into the wells;
• preparing a cement mortar;
• the resulting mixture is poured into the pipes.

Strapping is the first stage in the construction of a bath. For its implementation, boards with a size of 50X 100 mm are needed. They must be pre-treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. Then the marking of the walls is carried out, after which they are laid. The boards are laid on the outside and fastened with nails. Using supports, basement strapping is carried out. Wooden boards are used for the upper and lower trim, while the latter is removed before the roofing material is laid.

The horizontal laying is controlled by the building level. If any irregularities appear, they can be corrected with the help of roofing felt. Intermediate racks are installed taking into account the arrangement of the skin and the installation of thermal insulation.

To make the structure more durable, the logs and strappings are fastened with metal plates immured in the base. Such strapping must be treated with a special solution that prevents the structure from rotting.

Building walls

In the process of building walls, special importance is given to the distance between their axes. If the arrangement of the opening and docking with other walls is not provided, then this distance is approximately 0.6 m. If any, then this size increases by 0.4 m. The spacing between the racks depends on the size of the doors and windows.

Assembly begins with the formation of a corner, after which a wall is mounted, which will then be in contact with the strapping. The walls are checked for verticality, connected using special slopes. After that, other frames are installed at a right angle. The harnesses are fastened with boards, and the sheathing itself is started after the arrangement of the bath frame is completed.

In places where walls and frames are attached, as well as at joints, it is advisable to mount an additional rack. After the final fastening of all structural elements, the frame must be checked for squareness.

We mount the roof

On the ground is going roof structure, after which it rises to the roof and each is located above its rack. For safe performance of work, thick boards are laid on the floor. The roof must be ventilated. The crate is mounted directly on the beams, and a waterproofing film is laid between the rafters and the counter beam. When conducting roofing works widely used ondulin. The pediments of the structure are covered with sheets, after which they begin to finish the bath.

We carry out interior and exterior decoration

After frame bath will be built, it is necessary to start finishing work. do not paint, since paintwork products emit harmful substances. The draft ceiling is made using OSB-plate, which is attached to the floor beam from below. Inside the room, all walls are covered with glassine, and in the steam room - with foil. The ceiling can be lowered to a height of 2.2 m, which makes it possible to cover it with linden clapboard and perform insulation.

The frame bath is sheathed on the outside with siding, tiles, pine or spruce boards, block-house. Waterproofing is mounted under the skin, and the voids are filled thermal insulation materials. After completing all the facing work, the frame bath is plastered from the outside.

So, the frame bath, erected independently, is ready for operation. If all the rules and recommendations are followed correctly, then the bath will be durable, cozy, warm.

Photo report:

A fireplace is a heating device that can not only warm its owner, but also give the room a very cozy atmosphere. But this heating equipment has a rather complex design that requires careful maintenance. In addition, the device is powered by either fire or electricity, so if handled incorrectly, it can lead to a serious accident. In this regard, I would like to talk about the basic rules for using a fireplace, as well as discuss some options for cleaning it.

Increasingly, the owners of private houses prefer to install a fireplace for heating and for decorative purposes. Someone tries to build a fireplace with their own hands, others hire specialists who do the work from scratch. Finishing the fireplace is the final stage in the construction of the stove, which anyone who has minimal experience in construction work is able to handle. And ceramic tiles are the most popular and correct choice of finishing material for a fireplace.

The traditional form of kiln decoration is currently brick. However, the brick has one drawback: the brick is not suitable for every interior. There is another way to decorate the stove, adding to it not only decorative qualities, but also practicality and functionality: finishing the stove with tiled tiles. If you are a creative person, it will not be difficult for you to make tile tiles with your own hands. In other cases, the owner of the house always has the opportunity to purchase ready-made tiles, all that remains is to install the tiled tiles.