How to insulate a wooden house from the outside. Features of warming a wooden house outside with modern materials How can you warm a wooden house

It happens that the walls wooden house do a poor job of keeping warm.

The solution to this problem lies in the insulation of the walls.

The insulation layer will act as a barrier between the street and interior spaces at home.

When the question arises about the insulation of the walls of the log house, it is necessary to decide on the choice of thermal insulation method, which can be carried out both outside and inside.

Many homeowners lean towards the first option. This is obvious, because this method is much more efficient.

• External walls are additionally protected from moisture and solar activity, which increases their service life;
• Removing the dew point to the outside without the likelihood of condensation;
• Ensuring highly efficient thermal insulation;
• Preservation of the volume of the premises;
• Possibility of sealing external holes and cracks;

Flaws:

• Changing the appearance of the facade of the building;
• high cost of work;
• dependence of work on the season and on weather conditions;

External insulation under siding

• low cost;
• the possibility of leveling the walls;
• independence of work from the season and weather conditions;

Flaws:

• The shift of the dew point inside the room and the likelihood of condensation and mold;
• Reducing the volume of the room;
• Possible interior change for the worse;

Internal insulation

Types of external insulation:

• Strengthening heat insulators on the wall surface with adhesive mortars and finishing with plaster;
• Non-ventilated walls in three layers. The insulation material is fixed with a mortar and a single-brick outer wall in compliance with the air gap;
• Ventilated facade. The walls are protected with a waterproofing material, on top of which an insulating material is mounted. Then a windscreen is installed, and the frame is sheathed with clapboard or any other siding. This method allows installation even in winter period due to the lack of need for the use of adhesive solutions.

Main secret right home lies in the arrangement of its walls. The so-called wall "pie" causes a healthy microclimate and longevity of the structure.

wall pie

The “pie” of the wall consists of the following elements:

• Exterior finish protects all subsequent layers from aggressive external influences, moisture and temperature fluctuations. It can be performed various materials. Siding, facade plaster, decorative stones, facing bricks - the choice depends only on your imagination;
• waterproofing membrane located under exterior trim or wall cladding. It creates conditions for a favorable microclimate of the room and ensures the safety of wooden frame elements from moisture. Waterproofing releases water vapor to the outside, but does not let moisture in;
• insulation is one of the most important components. It is laid between I-beams - in cells formed with the help of horizontally located connecting links;
• Vapor barrier membrane prevents the penetration of vapors into the interior of the walls. Its installation is carried out on wooden frame from the inside of the walls. Its installation is necessary in places with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, toilet). Waxed paper often acts as a vapor barrier.
• Interior decoration- the closing layer of the "pie". The inner surface of the wall, if desired, can be sheathed with drywall, clapboard, etc.

The choice of insulation for a wooden house

Thermal insulation of walls from a bar can be carried out using facing brick, concrete or ceramic stones, small blocks. The only thing between the cladding and the surface of the wooden wall should be the designed air gap, which is provided in order to remove excess moisture from their wood.

As heat-insulating materials can also be used:

• stone wool is a heat and sound insulating material that made mainly from molten rock. Is a variety. Gabbro-basalt rock is the raw material for the manufacture of material fibers;
• is an inexpensive, hygienically and sanitary safe, light but rigid material. Its insulating properties fully satisfy common requirements, but the possibility of cracking from thermal expansion to which the walls are exposed does not allow us to call it best solution for warming;
• Ecowool is absolutely natural, environmentally friendly, ideal soundproofing material , which is made up of cellulose and antiseptics, which are based on borax and boric acid. The material is moisture resistant, hypoallergenic, its laying is carried out without forming seams and voids. Does not require the use of a vapor barrier layer when insulating timber walls;
• Basalt wool is characterized by excellent vapor permeability. Basalt is a non-combustible material, which provides fire protection for wooden log house. The material has good soundproofing characteristics;
• Foam glass is foamed glass, which is made up of thousands of glass cells.. The material is elastic, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly, fireproof, very durable and able to withstand any temperature fluctuations. It does not attract insects and does not allow mold and mildew to form. Among the shortcomings, one can note the lack of vapor conductivity, high fragility and high cost of the material;
• In the case of wooden walls, mineral wool is ideal as a heat insulator. It meets almost all the requirements for a heater, namely, it has a high coefficient of thermal insulation, a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity and low hygroscopicity. She is not afraid of high temperatures, fungus, mold, insects and rodents. It perfectly copes with the removal of vapors to the outside, non-toxic, non-flammable, breathable and, importantly, durable and can last from 30 to 60 years, based on the declared characteristics of the material.

Materials such as:

Types of heaters

Spectrum modern heaters very rich and varied, that the question of choosing the heat-insulating material accordingly technical features premises, requirements and budget of the buyer, will not be difficult.

Preparatory work

NOTE!

First of all, the walls are treated with antiseptic preparations., which protect wood from fungus, rot, mold, woodworms, and fire-fighting substances that improve the protective characteristics of the building.

Before installation, carry out the following steps:

• It's time to seal the cracks and gaps. They are sealed with sealants or jute fibers;
• Next, proceed to the installation of the crate. To do this, they are attached to the surface of the walls with self-tapping screws. bars 50×50 mm or 50×100 mm- they are selected according to the number of layers of insulation.
• The crate is installed in the form of horizontally and vertically arranged guides with a distance between them almost equal to the width of the insulation- less than one cm, in order to more tightly join the material.

Seal cracks with tow

Sealing cracks with sealant

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house outside with mineral wool

Do-it-yourself insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house is not like that difficult process, as it seems at first glance, mineral wool is well suited for these purposes.

CAREFULLY!

Before installing the insulation on the crate, it is necessary to attach a vapor barrier membrane. It will let the water vapor of the premises go outside, and it will hold back the moisture rushing into the room from the outside, preventing it from being absorbed into the insulation layer and protecting its thermal insulation characteristics.

• Having fixed the vapor barrier, begin to lay slabs of insulating material using construction stapler . In addition, the space between the rails is fixed to the wall. using umbrella dowels.
• A waterproofing membrane is mounted on top of the laid insulation, which will not let moisture in from the outside, but will remove a small amount of condensate that has penetrated the insulation layer;
• Further, installation of rails under facing materials, which perform not only the role of the frame and decoration of the facade, but also form ventilation gaps necessary for ventilation of the heat-insulating layer;
• As facing materials wooden houses often used siding, lining, blockhouse.

Installation of the crate on the beam

Ways of timber insulation

Mineral wool insulation scheme

Installation of insulation from the outside using expanded polystyrene as an example

Expanded polystyrene sheets begin to be fixed in the frame from the bottom up using glue specially designed for this purpose. If some sheets do not hold well in place, you can use foam wedges to secure them or ordinary nails.

Further, styrofoam is sheltered diffusion membrane . It must be laid in horizontally running strips from the bottom of the wall to the top, while the resulting polystyrene foam joints should be overlapped by 10 - 15 cm.

The membrane is fastened with a stapler, and the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

After fixing the membrane, the structure is clad. For these purposes, lining, thin-layer plaster or siding is used.

NOTE!

No gaps should be left between the sheets to avoid the formation of “bridges” of cold.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Styrofoam laying

vapor barrier

The vapor barrier serves to protect the insulation from the penetration of steam from the side of the wooden wall. It is only necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane on the wall if mineral thermal insulation materials and/or their external surfaces go out into the street.

The film is installed between the heat-insulating material and bearing walls at home. The function of the vapor barrier is to protect the heat-insulating layer from getting wet.

It is necessary to accurately determine the side of the film fastening, since its incorrect installation in the future will lead to uncontrolled access of moisture.

For example:

• The foam propylene membrane is fixed with the rough side to the under-roof space.. If the membrane is polyethylene, the question of which side to attach will not matter
• The two-layer membrane is laid with a smooth surface to the heat-insulating layer.
• One-sided laminated polypropylene film is also directed with its smooth side to the insulating layer;
• The foil surface of the special film turns towards the heat-insulating layer;

vapor barrier

Installation of vapor barrier:

• Turn the film to the appropriate side and carefully, avoiding damage, fasten it to the crate;
• Carefully glue punctures, overlaps, likely gaps and cracks;
• Mount the crate using bars with a section of 3 × 5 cm in order to ensure ventilation;
• Cover the structure with finishing materials;

Waterproofing

• Waterproofing protects the walls of the house from the damaging effects of moisture, fungus, mold.
• It is reinforced between the thermal insulation material and the siding.
• Installation of a waterproofing membrane is carried out with an overlap of 10-15 cm.
• The canvases are attached with a stapler to the surface of the crate, while the joints are sealed with special tapes.
• Ventilation gaps are formed using a crate with a bar 25 × 50;
• From below, a protective metal mesh is installed

waterproofing membrane

In conclusion, it is worth saying that it is quite possible to perform the insulation of the walls of a house from a bar on your own. All you need is your patience and some expenses, which will more than pay off in the future.

Useful video

Insulation of a wooden house outside under siding in the video below:

In contact with

Log houses are the warmest and most environmentally friendly. Wooden walls perfectly retain and accumulate heat and regulate the level of humidity. On every corner we hear that a wooden wall with a thickness of only 240 mm has the same thermal conductivity as Brick wall 1 m thick. Impressive, right? But there are situations when they built or bought a new log house, lived in it, and with the onset of the first serious cold weather, they realized that it was cool in the house and drafts were walking. Then we seriously think about the insulation of the building, even to the detriment of beauty. But there may be more banal situations: they bought an old wooden house, which is already rather “worn out” and requires serious measures for warming. So the serious question arises, how to perform insulation log house what materials can be used, and what absolutely cannot be done.

Why is it cold in a log house - a little theory

What are the most common problems owners face? log houses who complain that it is cold in winter? Firstly, these are drafts in the rooms. Secondly, it blows on the legs. Thirdly, the house cools down quickly if the heating is turned off. Fourth, the walls are too cold. And many related nuances, from which it is concluded that the house must be urgently insulated, and it is imperative to start from the floor, since it is the coldest. Let's see what happens in the room when it is heated.

Imagine that we have a log house that we heat with some kind of heat source. What we have involved in heat transfer: heat source, air, ceiling, walls and floor. How does this happen? Let's remember school course physics. Heating up from the heat source, the air rushes up - to the ceiling. Resting against the surface of the ceiling, it spreads over it, giving off heat and cooling. As a result, we get the ceiling - the warmest surface in the room. Further, the air flow reaches the walls and descends along them. Since our walls are much colder than the ceiling, the air cools much faster and its speed increases. Now the air has already reached the floor, having fairly accelerated, and rushes along it at such a speed that an illusion of such a strong cold draft is created, as if there is no floor, and you are standing right on the snow.

If you place a heat source near the inner walls, as is usually done by heating with a fireplace or a portable radiator, then the heat transfer rate increases significantly. There is a constant draft in the room, it turns out that we ourselves are to blame for the fact that it is cold in the house.

No wonder there are norms that heating radiators should be located under the windows. The outer walls are initially the coldest, in contrast to the inner ones, which are quite inert. If a heat source is located near outer wall, then the air will rise up, then again fall on the walls, but now not at such a speed and will not cool so quickly. After all internal walls quite warm, so passing them, the air will not be cooled too much. And descending along the outer walls, it will rest against the heat source again, where it will heat up and rise up. As a result: the room warms up faster, the structures retain heat better, since it is accumulated rather than wasted.

What you need to check to eliminate unnecessary heat loss:

1. Ceiling. The very first outpost to check for leaks, as up to 70% of heat can escape through it. Be sure to insulate the attic or attic floor to keep the heat inside.
2. Walls. The second outpost is the outer walls and everything that is in them: windows, doors, etc. Not properly installed windows and doors are the scourge of log houses. Through them, the lion's share of heat can go away, without even having time to heat the room. Immediately from the radiator and into the gap under / above the window. Plus, do not forget to check whether the walls are carefully caulked, maybe cracks have already formed somewhere.
3. Floor. The last thing that can be a source of cold is the floor. It should be checked for serviceability and insulated in a standard way. Also for the winter it is worth reducing the ventilation of the underground by blocking most air.

I would also like to note that in order to make the heating of a log house better, it is possible to equip the house with “warm floors”, in addition to existing system heating. Then warm air will be distributed more evenly throughout the room, due to which drafts near the floor will disappear and the house will cool more slowly.

By the way, too thin walls can also cause cold in the house. For example, for a climate with a cold harsh winter, but low humidity, walls 200 - 240 mm thick are sufficient. But for regions with wet winters, even if the temperature does not fall below -20 ° C, it is advisable to use logs with a diameter of at least 400 mm, and preferably 480 mm. Such regions, for example, include Moscow and the Moscow region, St. Petersburg and Leningrad region. Be sure to take this into account when developing a log house project so that it does not hurt excruciatingly later.

What materials can be used to insulate a log house

The standard procedure for insulating a log house includes insulating the ceiling or attic, caulking the walls and insulating window and door frames, and insulating the floor. If everything is done correctly, then no additional measures will be needed.

Taking into account the fact that log houses are built in order to create a dwelling from natural ecologically clean materials, then it would be foolish to use polystyrene for insulation. Then all meaning is lost.

For attic insulation log house can be used sawdust, ecowool(cellulose cotton), seaweed, straw. In extreme cases, you can insulate mineral wool.

Caulker walls produced only with natural materials: moss, tow, hemp, jute, flax-based tape heaters and jute. The main requirement for the material is that it must have properties similar to wood.

For wooden floor insulation on logs you can use natural backfill materials, and you can mineral wool in rolls. But concrete floor will require a denser material, fit polystyrene foam, extruded polystyrene foam, cork and basalt wool in slabs with a density of more than 160 kg/m3.

If, after all the standard procedures, the house is cold, maybe because the thickness of the logs was chosen incorrectly, maybe the house is already very old, or maybe the heating was calculated incorrectly, and you decided that without such a procedure as warming the walls of a log house , you can not do, then you should know some of the nuances.

The material that can be used to insulate log walls should have the following properties:

• To be vapor-permeable on a par with wood or to a greater extent if it is laid outside the building.
• Be moisture resistant so as not to accumulate moisture, which can lead to rotting of the tree.
• Be fireproof and resistant to the appearance of pathogenic fungi.
• It is easy to pass air.
• Have a sufficiently loose structure to fit snugly against a rounded log wall and leave no gaps.

Considering all of the above, to insulate a log house from the outside, you can use:

• Ecowool.

• Mineral wool (although it is not natural, it is easy to install and publicly available).
• Sawdust or sawdust-granules (filling material).
• Expanded clay (filling material).

The tree is unusual construction material. It not only “breathes”, but is also a kind of air recuperator. And if someone will assure you that the vapor permeability of wood across the fibers is slightly greater than that of reinforced concrete, know that you can object. Entering the thickness of the wood across the fibers, then the air is distributed along the fibers and exits through the end. In other words, the tree "breathes" with its ends.

It is precisely because the wooden walls are “living” that the following materials cannot be used:

• Styrofoam.
• Extruded polystyrene foam.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Mounting foam for sealing gaps.
• Sealants.

Using vapor barrier materials will cause the wood to rot, or if you protect it from the inside with a vapor barrier, you will turn a wooden house into a thermos. In this case, the whole point of building a house from a log will be lost. But the choice is still yours.

How to insulate a log house from the outside

As we have already found out, it is necessary to insulate the walls of a log house only when all other measures for insulation have not brought the desired result.

If you are interested in the question of how to properly insulate a log house from the outside or from the inside, then here is a definite answer for you - outside. This is due to the properties of the tree to breathe, accumulate moisture and give it away. In the case of an external location of the insulation, air and moisture will freely exit the tree and ventilate.

You can start warming only a year and a half after the completion of the construction, when the log house sits down.

Log wall caulk

Even if you have already made the final decision to insulate the house, the first step is to carefully caulk it. We examine all the walls for visible cracks. Then, in calm weather, we pass through the house with a candle, holding it close to the walls. If the flame leans towards the wall, then there is a gap in this place from which it blows in winter.

One of the most effective ways search for cracks in the logs - in winter, when the house is heated, it is necessary to go around and inspect all the walls. If you notice frost, it is sometimes also called a “bunny”, which means that heat is leaking from the room in this place.

Caulking should be done in dry, warm weather, using tow, jute, hemp or roll insulation. We put the material in the gap between the crowns and push it with a special tool - a caulk.

Ventilated facade device

Insulation of a log house from the outside is carried out by installing a ventilated facade. This design allows wooden wall"breathe" and release moisture.

First, we treat the walls with an antiseptic and flame retardant to protect the tree from fire and mold. On top of the walls we fill the crate, which will hold the insulation. To do this, we use a bar with a section of 50 mm. We fill vertically with a step equal to the width of the insulation boards minus 2 - 3 cm.

As a heater, we will use mineral wool in slabs with a density of 35 - 50 kg / m3, 50 mm thick.

Important! When installing insulation on a log wall, we encounter some inconvenience. The fact is that the wall is uneven, laying the insulation close without gaps is almost impossible. Therefore, we put insulation into the gaps (openings) between the wall and the battens of the crate. To do this, you can use "Basaltin" in rolls or interventional insulation - jute, lnovatin.

We insert mineral wool slabs between the crate, pushing them tightly into the opening. We do this from the bottom up.

On top of the insulation we mount a windproof waterproofing superdiffusion membrane. It must have a vapor permeability equal to at least 1400 g/m2 per day or higher.

Important! Properly selected wind protection for a ventilated log wall facade is almost the most important thing in insulation. This membrane will not allow moisture and wind to pass through from the outside into the thickness of the insulation and walls, but at the same time it will release moisture and air from the inside to the outside, thus giving the walls the opportunity to “breathe”.

On top of the windshield we stuff a crate of 50 mm bars. We mount siding on the crate. It could be vinyl siding imitating a tree, or you can use a block house, then the wall will have the same log profile as the real one.

For the entire thickness of the crate (50 mm), a ventilation gap is formed between the membrane and the facade. Air vents must be provided at the bottom and at the top so that air can circulate freely.

How to insulate a log house from the inside

The option of insulating the house inside must be considered before performing a ventilated facade. Perhaps standard insulation measures will be enough, and you won’t have to spoil appearance walls.

The following procedures can be attributed to the insulation of a log house from the inside: insulation of the floor, ceiling, roof and walls. Moreover, experts are categorically against installing insulation inside the walls, since in this case the tree will dampen and rot.

Ceiling and roof insulation

The first thing, as soon as they found that it was cold in the house, we insulated the ceiling and roof.

If the house is one-story with an attic, then on attic floor laying waterproofing film, on top we pour insulation with a layer of 150 to 250 mm. It can be ecowool, sawdust, seaweed or ordinary mineral or glass wool in rolls. It is not necessary to cover the heater. From above, you can lay boards for ease of movement around the attic, but you do not need to equip the floor.

If the house has an attic floor instead of an attic, then it is necessary to insulate both the ceiling between the floors and the roof slope. It is enough to lay 50 - 100 mm of insulation (any) in the ceiling. If the attic floor is wooden, then we fill up the insulation between the lags. If the floor is concrete, then we use basalt wool in slabs or, in extreme cases, foam. To insulate the roof slope, we lay a waterproofing film directly under the roof, then lay the insulation (mineral wool) with a layer of 150 - 200 mm. We lay a vapor-tight membrane on top of the insulation so that the material is not saturated with moisture from the room. We mount the crate and trim for the attic.

The above procedures should be enough to make the house warmer.

Insulation of the walls of a log house

Let's go to the walls. Since it is impossible to mount insulation inside log walls, what we can do is to caulk well from the inside, insulate all window and door openings.

To insulate the openings, we use a rolled interventional insulation or, in extreme cases, mineral wool, but in no case do we blow out the cracks mounting foam, it will quickly become unusable, since the walls of a log house are constantly in motion, and foam is a non-plastic material.

To finish the walls of a log house from the inside, you can upholster them with wooden clapboard. In this case, the insulation between the wall and the finish cannot be mounted. The house will become a little warmer due to the fact that the wall will have a slightly greater thickness, as well as air gaps from the side of the heated room between the flat lining and the curved surface of the log walls.

Insulation of the floor of a log house

In order for the floor in a wooden house to be warm, it must be equipped, observing the entire technology of laying the floor on the ground. Be sure to perform backfilling, waterproofing and insulation. If the floor is wooden, we lay insulation between the lags with a layer of 100 - 150 mm. Top rough and finish floor.

If the floor is concrete, then between the layer of "lean" concrete and the main layer we lay polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam in slabs with a thickness of 50 - 80 mm.

Before insulating a log house with a ventilated facade, equip the house with a “warm floor” system. Perhaps this will be more than enough to ensure a comfortable stay in it. Then you don’t have to sew up beautiful log walls, because such houses are being built because of their primitive beauty. What's the use of covering the walls with siding?

Insulation of a log house is whole complex measures. If everything is done correctly, start from the ceiling and roof, then caulk the walls well, insulate the windows and doors, the floor, there will be no need to sheathe the house from the outside. If this does not help, there is another way to keep warm in a log house, which is not described here - to build a glazed veranda on the coldest side of the house, thereby expanding the area and forming an air barrier.

Often there are situations when the walls in a wooden house lose one of their tasks, such as heat retention. In this case, they resort to warming the walls of the house from the outside. The insulation becomes a protection against cold air.

This approach also has several other advantages: the wall of the building gains additional protection from sun rays and dampness and will last longer.

Advantages of external thermal insulation

External insulation of the house has several advantages:

1. The main one, of course, is the preservation of heat. This type of insulation prevents a sudden drop in temperature. The wall, reinforced from the outside, retains high thermal protection.
2. Unlike internal insulation, with external insulation there are no zones in which there is no heat, the so-called "cold bridges" since with this type of insulation it is possible to install heat-insulating material at the junction of the ceiling to the outer walls.
3. Also, external insulation prevents the penetration of moisture into the walls of the house.

Do not forget about the shortcomings of external insulation. This warming process wooden houses quite complex and labor intensive.

Warming methods

There are several types of insulation:

1. The insulator is attached to the wall with adhesive solution.
2. Facade ventilation. The wall is protected by waterproofing, a heater is attached on top, a windscreen is installed, after which the sheathing with siding or other material is installed on the frame.
3. Three-layer non-ventilated wall. The insulation is fixed with mortar, the outer wall is mounted in one brick, while observing the air gap.

It is natural that for each type of material there are subtleties in execution. It should not be ruled out that there are combined insulating materials on the market of insulating products or such materials for which it is necessary to adhere to the technology developed in-house.

The big plus is safety. Such a heater is environmentally friendly. The only downsides are high price.

Styrofoam

A material filled with gas, like polyurethane foam. It is obtained from polystyrene and its derivatives. Such material is vapor permeable, absorbs water well, biologically stable, long service life. These are definitely positives.

Of the minuses - highly flammable, which makes it a rather dangerous material.

Styrofoam

The most popular material for external insulation of wooden houses. It has a cellular structure. cells are isolated, polystyrene has good thermal insulation, which is definitely a plus.

Also foam insulation gives good sound insulation, no need for additional waterproofing, ease of installation and durability.

Like all materials, polystyrene also has its drawbacks: it is unsafe. when burned, caustic substances are released, has low strength.

When choosing a thermal insulation material, you should pay attention to its service life, safety. The choice of material for insulation should be approached responsibly, to study all the pros and cons. Preference should be given fireproof and environmentally friendly materials.

Do you know what is the best way to sheathe a wooden house from the outside? Read in this article.

We warm a wooden house with our own hands

The insulation technology begins with the installation of a frame on which the insulation will lie.

Bars are nailed to the wall being processed made of wood measuring 50x50 mm, keep in mind that the distance should be no more and no less than 580 mm of security. The material must be laid so that there are no gaps between the wall and the bars.

Next stage - providing vapor barrier. For this, aluminum foil is used, polyethylene film or vapor barrier film. The need for vapor barrier is eliminated if the house is made of round timber.

When the plane is smooth, then the slats are stuffed, on which a layer of vapor barrier is mounted. It must be taken into account that between the slats from below and above there should be a stomata of 20 cm in diameter for ventilation. The fastening points of the vapor barrier material are sealed with adhesive tape in order to protect against moisture.

The stage of vapor barrier is followed by the stage of thermal insulation. The material must be installed so that there are no gaps or gaps between the frame boards. The material is laid in two layers of 50 mm each. so that the joints of the first layer are aligned with the middle of the second.

For the secondary layer of thermal insulation bars are nailed across walls, perpendicular to the main row of the frame.

Next is waterproofing. The waterproofing film must easy to pass steam and hold water well. The waterproofing layer is superimposed on the heat insulator layer. It is nailed to the frame.

Next is the stage of installing a secondary layer of the frame. On the first layer (on top of the waterproofing layer), slats 50 mm wide and 30 mm thick are stuffed.

The installation of the next layer of the frame is carried out for free air movement between the vapor barrier layer and the skin, so that the moisture that has fallen on the waterproofing layer is dried.

The space formed below must be closed with a dense metal mesh from the penetration of rodents and insects.

At the last stage, the house is sheathed with appropriate material (siding, lining, facade panels and others). It should be taken into account that wall thickness will increase by 20-25 cm and accordingly, it is necessary to think over the protection of the insulation from the window openings.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside: video instruction.

Follow the technology insulation of a wooden house from the outside, perform the work carefully and in the indicated sequence:

• the first layer is a film for vapor barrier of walls;
• installation of a frame crate;
• direct installation of the selected insulation;
• fastening to the frame of the waterproofing layer;
• installation of facade cladding.

The choice of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a wooden house? Get to know the popular materials for protecting a wooden structure.

Mineral wool

Many owners choose mineral wool. Quite reasonable. This lightweight material:

• retains heat well;
• not subject to combustion;
• it is soft and elastic;
• it is easy to work with him;
• withstands temperature changes;
• cold bridges are absent.

External wall insulation with mineral wool is often used by owners of new and old log houses. First, equip the frame and fill it with rolls of mineral wool. The material fills the voids well.

The supporting structures of the frame tightly hold the mineral wool. Additional fastening is not required. They produce material in rolls, plates or mats.

New boards are laid on top and sheathed with plastic siding. The building will acquire modern look.

Ecowool

This insulation came to us from Finland. In harsh conditions, the material, consisting of cellulose and antiseptics, successfully withstood the test of severe frosts and icy winds.

Advantages:

• eco-friendly, natural material;
• prevents the appearance of mold;
• mice do not gnaw ecowool;
• excellent noise and heat insulation;
• used for external and internal insulation;
• the walls "breathe" well;
• when smoldering does not emit toxic substances.

Installation of ecowool does not require the arrangement of a vapor barrier layer. Methods for applying the cellulose mixture: wet-glue, bulk, by blowing using a special machine.

Qualitative, monolithic layer 10 cm thick will allow you to create reliable protection from the cold. Suitable for use in various climatic zones.

Styrofoam

This material insulates the house from the inside. Outside, insulate a house from a bar with polystyrene foam Not recommended. Cause? The material does not breathe well. The result - the appearance of condensate, wood decay, the development of mold fungi.

Cold bridges inevitably form between the base and polystyrene foam in places of loose fit. Some of the heat will be wasted.

For internal thermal insulation, with the help of foam, the rack frame is first stuffed to provide an air gap. Plates up to 5 cm thick are fixed with adhesive mortars or special fasteners.

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the outside

Have you already decided on the type of insulation? Mineral wool or ecowool - you decide. It remains to consider stages of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house.

In the photo you see one of the insulation options, the order of work.

vapor barrier

The purpose of this layer is ensure adequate ventilation of the facade under the foil. If the facade is made of round logs, you can fix the material directly on the tree. The gaps will be sufficient.

On the smooth surface first you need to hit wooden slats. Thickness - 2.5 cm. Keep the distance between them - within a meter.

You will need aluminum foil, roofing felt, a special vapor barrier film. Attach the vapor barrier layer to the rails. Cut a hole in the top and bottom for ventilation. Diameter - 2 cm.

Important: where nails or staples are driven in, glue the surface with adhesive tape to seal.

Arrangement of a wooden frame

You will need a regular board. Width - no more than 10 cm, thickness - no more than 5 cm. Thinner ones are not suitable for this design.

Nail the boards vertically. Make sure that the distance between them is 1-2 cm less than the width of the insulation. So you prevent the appearance of cracks and voids.

thermal insulation

If you chose ecowool, use a blower to apply the cellulose mixture to the wall. Remember- No vapor barrier needed!

Lay the mineral wool slabs in the prepared frame, achieving a snug fit. Choose semi-rigid boards with a density of 120kg/m3. Additional fastening is not required.

waterproofing layer

To you special film required with vapor permeability over 1300g/sq.m. its task is to let steam through, but prevent it from getting on the insulation layer. Installation is carried out in the same way as when installing a vapor barrier layer.

It remains to fill the frame with boards to dry the condensate that has fallen on the waterproofing layer. Suitable boards with a thickness of 2.3 to 3 cm and a width of 5 cm.

To protect against insects and rodents, install a metal mesh with small cells from below. Special attention pay attention to the arrangement of a protective layer when insulating a log house with mineral wool.

outer skin

What will your house look like after insulation? Can be stuffed wooden lining or euro lining made of larch, oak or pine. Treat the boards, open them with varnish.

Think about the design of doors and windows. Insulation will increase the thickness of the walls up to 25cm. You can move them to another place and equip new ones. wooden frames, platbands, window sills.

The second option is to give the house a stylish, modern look. You will need a block how, vinyl or metal siding. Work is carried out from the bottom up. Attach the cladding with screws or nails.

To your attention is a video about the insulation of a wooden house from the outside. What is the best way to insulate?

Prices for insulation

Warming of private houses and cottages can be done independently. This option only costs material.

Many owners turn to construction firms. In the absence of skills, time and desire to carry out the insulation of your home, allocate some money to pay for the work of professionals. These are the average rates.

A full range of works on the arrangement of thermal insulation: from 1080 to 4000 rubles. per sq.m. The total cost depends on the chosen insulation and the method of installation of the protective layer.

Insulation of a wooden house from the outside - a process that requires a balanced approach to all stages of work. Buy high-quality materials, listen to the advice of experts, follow the technology - and your log house will be warm. New decorative facade will create a mood.