"The woman is created for a man, not a man for a woman" - such a postulate ...
A source:Painting and varnishing. Wooden Boat Series.
DOUG TEMPLIN.
Abbreviated translation S.B.
What is polyurethanes
Although polyurethane compounds surround us for quite a long time, they still represent advanced technologies, because in all this time there is little moved towards the development of more progressive paint systems.
Immediately after the appearance of the first two-component polyurethane paints, the reputation of durable, chemical and wear-resistant, well-preserving their color was entrenched behind them. They were immediately taken to armared in aviation, where protection against corrosion is of paramount importance, and aesthetics are important, and the cost of painting works is extremely high. Consisting of themselves in aviation, polyurethane paints quickly moved into the sphere of "marine" paints on the same reasons. The following in the queue was the automotive industry and the sphere of industrial coatings, where the high cost of polyurethane paint and varnish coating justifies itself with increased resistance and durability. To date, there are infinite sets of polyurethane applications.
Self chemical process Curing polyurethanes relatively simple. It is a reaction of two compounds: one of them is called isocyanate, another - polyol, or high molecular weight alcohol. Isocyanate consists of chemical groups containing nitrogen, carbon and oxygen atoms, connected to each other in a special way, which gives them a high reactivity. The process of producing isocyanates was developed by the German company Bayer (the one that is known as the invention aspirin), the production license was sold to Monsanto in the United States. Later, they purchased her shares and created the company Mobay Chemical, to this day the cleaner and high-tech isocyanates from existing ones.
Over the past years, much has managed to improve: reduce the volatility of isocyanates, make them more secure and improve the characteristics. Despite the fact that the word "isocyanate" itself carries an ominous shade, it has nothing to do with cyanide, known to the poison. Isocyanate is an irritant of respiratory organs, and its solvents posses to the toxic effect.
A component called "polyol" is usually an alcohol with a high molecular weight with additive pigments, fillers, and other components that are all called "pigmented basis". The polyol has reactive hydroxyl groups (it), precisely the same in the water molecule H 2 O (H-OH). In alcohols, which are used for the formation of polyurethane, they have very high activity, and their large amount leads to the formation of numerous reactionary pairs with isocyanate and, with mixing components, a very dense three-dimensional mesh structure is formed.
The number of existing polyols is as large as the number of existing manufacturers of varnishes and paints, each was developed for a certain purpose or to fill the highly specialized niche of the market. The objectives of their development can be efficiency, resistance to temperature and chemicals, the formation of thick film coating, corrosion protection. Those alcohols that we apply in the area of \u200b\u200b"sea" paintwork coatings are developed based on the high degree of source gloss and its long-term resistance.
Sea polyurethane coatings
Let's take a closer look at the fact that polyurethanes are intended for operation in the "marine" environment. A certain difference between them consists in two types of polyols used - those containing an acrylic resin and those who have a polyester base. It is the resin that determines the internal structure and allows you to predict pre-predicted that the film coating will be capable of, and what - no. Systems on acrylic resin are usually referred to in modified polyurethanes, while polyester systems are considered "purely" polyurethane.
The paintwork systems based on acrylic resin are usually developed with the calculation at the minimum curing time, a solid surface and the ability to polish. They are more vulnerable to temperature and chemicals, However, this does not prevent them from dominating the auto industry and others. vehiclewhere the possibility of polishing is important. Acrylic systems, as a rule, do not have such elasticity and resistance to abrasion, like their polyester fellow.
Among the acrylo - modified systems used for the painting of vehicles dominates the imron system of the company Dupont (DuPont) and it is quite obvious that it is also leading among the similar type of "marine" systems. However, under the conditions of the high-corrosive environment and in the southern latitudes, Imron, apparently, cannot boast such a gloss and light-resistance as high-quality polyester systems. Since the recent elasticity of the coating is higher, it seems to me that imron is more suitable for metal and fiberglass boatsrather than wooden. Its use also prevents the fact that when painting brush, the result cannot be considered satisfactory.
Polyester systems can more often meet in the sphere of reactive aviation, where solvent resistance and elasticity are mandatory requirements. Sterling (Sterling System), US Paint (AWLGRIP), International (Interthane) and Koppers (Z-SPAR) are leading in this market. All these systems have a polyester foundation and are quite different from each other, although they can be considered approximately equivalent to their end-consumer qualities. Each of these firms have their own paint brand, which can be applied with a brush, which attracts quite wide attention to them lately.
Conditions for coloring
Stories about how one or another paint behaves, there is a great set - we all heard about luck and complete fiasco, and when it was about the same paint brand. It is quite natural that any of us wants to achieve a good result when painting a boat, so you should know in advance some of important conditionsCompliance with which will help you achieve.
Dry wood. Polyurethane paints can be applied only on wood, which is evenly sucked and is in a state of equilibrium humidity with the environment. On its surface there should be no areas of manifestation of increased moisture content that outstanding themselves and bubble. If the enamel paint holds on the case just one season - probable reason There may be precisely elevated wood moisture. With wet wood, you will not work with polyurethane paints.
Suitable candidate for applying polyurethane paint - It is a healthy wood, well dried and stable in size, although in practice there is more chances to get a good result with wood hardwood. Problems may arise from the type of resinous pine, in which numerous bitchings are constantly "will be watched."
Hard base. If the housing or the cutting of your boat is experiencing significant deformations for a shift between the impoverishing, it is impossible to use polyurethane paints. The older the boat age, the more weakened its fasteners and the more likely, the larger shift relative to his friend experience the plates of the sheath. This can be caused by dynamic loads arising from the movement of a boat in aquatic environment, or simply when moving a boat from a very hot climate in a very cold, from very moist in dry and vice versa.
Any hull, with seams of which it happened in the past, guaranteed to behave the same way With any paint, whether it is a polyurethane or oil, thereby reducing the alleged life of its service. When cracks begin to appear in the coating, it loses its integrity, begins to skip water to itself and no longer performs its function.
If the goal is to achieve from polyurethane paint maximum period Services, it should be applied only on such a wooden boat that is not exposed to bending strains - it can be a high-quality trimmed corpus in perfect condition, a boat with a rush-cutting and cocked resin seams, a housing with plywood, with a diagonal trim or a fiberglass-eyed.
The slots of the folding (wedge-shaped groove) left open and filled with putty are the most likely place for the development of shear deformations even on the strongest buildings. Not to all owners of this kind of groove deliver aesthetic satisfaction, but if they are there, it is only for benefit. Unfortunately, these V-shaped grooves hide starting microcracks in the coating, which are much less noticeable with them than on the housing, which the adjacent boards are joined.
Connection density. Wooden housing It is necessary to examine carefully to make sure that all end and arm joints, grooves and cracks are tightly embedded and water is prevented to access the hull design elements, where it can penetrate along the gaps and wood fibers. Nothing destroys the paintwork faster than the water absorbed and often this process passes unnoticed by the naive owners of wooden boats, which in the end with anxiety detect unsightly bubbles in places where the water penetrated the surface. The polymer film is opposed to this no more than ordinary oil enamel, in fact - it is even more vulnerable, because moisture from the inside trying to enter the surface, unable to pass through the impenetrable film of the polymer, as it occurs in the case of a less dense film of the enamel coating. Therefore, the moisture has a property of tearing off the film from the surface, forming a bubble in this place.
About security
Polyurethane and epoxy coatings, as a rule, contain more toxic components in their composition than ordinary enamels. The latter should also be treated with a matter of caution, because manufacturers constantly work on their improvement and modern enamels may contain primer compositions, solvents and diluents, which are also toxic when inhaled or hitting the skin, as well as those that we find in polyurethane paints and varnish Materials. Epoxy compositions, as everyone known, contain many components capable of causeing skin allergies and other reactions. It should be avoided by their skin and work only in respiratory protection tools - at least in a tightly adjacent respirator with fresh filters with activated carbon.
When applying polyurethane paints from the collapse complex, the isocyanate component of polyurethane turns into an aerosol and can easily get into the lungs. When painting with a brush, this process is not so pronounced, because the large molecular weight of isocyanate does not give it molecules to actively evaporate. Regardless of the selected method of applying, a person when working with polyurethane paints is exposed to the strong and toxic solvents contained in them, which are easily destroyed and found in the lungs. We need personal protective equipment.
When operating outdoors, the necessary protection can provide a carbon filter respirator. If you are a beard owner, you should understand that the mask to achieve a tight fit will be difficult and this kind of respirator will not provide you with due protection. When working in close contact with polyurethane, if you have a beard or if more reliable protection - You should use the respirator with excess pressure and air supply from the outside. The respirator and gloves must necessarily be at the time of mixing, applying paint and cleaning from its chemical components. If at some point you felt in the respirator the smell of paint, concentration toxic substances In the air presents danger and measures are required. Do not forget to read hygienic certificates (MSDS) on all applicable chemical productsDo not limit yourself to reading just what is written on the label.
Applying polyurethane paints
Polyurethane paints and varnish materials are thin, durable and possessing high gloss covers that look well only being applied on perfectly smooth surface (no matter, paint is or varnish). Even the most meager scratches with hair thickness will peck through the film. Therefore, the preparation of the surface under the color has no less important than the coloring process itself, which, in turn, proceeds differently for paint and for varnish.
If the old enamel boat coating has no damage and is in good condition, it is perfectly suitable as the basis for applying polyurethane paint and it is only required to sand it with a grain 180, pollute to the brilliance and in front of the painting to primed polyurethane soil. It should be very critical to assess the condition of the existing coating. If enamel is not in very good condition, much better results you will be able to achieve, removing all the paint to clean wood and starting everything "from scratch."
There are two most well-known surface preparation methods, both include applying epoxy materials on top of pure wood. The first method is to use to protect wood and filling its texture of any decent waterproof epoxy resin that does not contain fillers, such as Chemtech, Coldcure, Detco, System3, Travaco or West System (names are given in alphabetical order). Two or three of its layers can be applied using a roller, then fought a rough skin and wash according to the manufacturer's recommendations. This will be the basis for soils applied subsequently.
As an alternative way, the pure surface of the wood can be covered with several layers of epoxy soil using a brush, roller or a paint (if it and you have and you own the experience of it). The soil layers are applied and polished after each other until the flush is filled with the surface of all the depressions and failures. Epoxy resins applied in the form of a thick layer have very high strength and are poorly grinding, but it is precisely this feature that allows you to strengthen the surface of the wood and reduce its susceptibility to impacts and scratches. Think well before using epoxy soils, the surface of which is easily grinding - they have very low stroke resistance. It should be remembered to a simple thing: what is easily grinding, it will also be easily susceptible to dents, and the surface will be laid with the greatest strength.
When applying epoxy soils, the roller turns out to be covered with a noticeable pumped texture surface that is quite difficult to smoothly poll. It would be noticeable to save time in this situation the paintopult in several passes. The soil at the same time aligns itself and the necessary thickness is gained in a more compressed duration.
After the wood surface is securely protected (and the best of all this function is performed by epoxy resins), the next step should be shtlocking the surface. The putty for this can be prepared by the epoxy resin itself, microspheres and aerosal, applying it with a spatula. You can also take advantage of the putty low density of factory manufacture.
When screaming places are treated with a skin on the grater, there are no noticeable depressions, the whole sliced \u200b\u200bsurface must be re-covered with epoxy soil to close the pores of the microspheres destroyed during grinding. After priming the roller, brush or paint and the subsequent drying, the surface should be treated with a neck with grain 100-150.
Epoxy soils to improve bottling on the surface contain in its composition solvents, which, as the composition is cured, they will disappear from the drying film. When evaporation of solvents from the surface, the coating film receives a shrinkage, and this process continues to their full evaporation. Therefore, it is not worthwhile to hurry with the grinding of the thick layer of epoxy soil (especially in cold weather), and even more so if the layers have been applied somewhat and not waiting for the full volatile solvents from the previous layer.
Epoxy powders containing fine fillers (such as Interlux Red Hand) can also be used for sealing remaining pores of wood and minor scratches. The surface after them is treated with an eye with grain 150-180.
I do not advise you to use for sealing surface defects wooden boat Automobile polyester putty. Polyester resin. It is a water absorbent material, and these putty are very porous and contain a significant amount of solvent, when changing the surrounding humidity, they have the property to give shrinkage and swell.
Even now still early to attach paint. It's time for finishing soil. I prefer to use the polyurethane soil Sterling U-1000 for these purposes, diluted to the necessary consistency depending on the method of application (brush, roller or spray). This is a quick-drying polyurethane, it is elastic enough, it has excellent adhesion to all types of surfaces and is perfectly polished. It must be applied by a smooth layer, suitable for finishing grinding with grain 220.
After finishing grinding, the quality of the prepared surface is checked by conducting the tips of the fingers - the touch should not detect tangible defects. The perfect coating is needed the ideal basis.
And now, finally, everything is ready. Pigmented paint base is mixed with a catalyst, usually adding to them another small amount of accelerator to accelerate the curing of the film. The accelerator also avoids the cloud of a gloss, which may occur when working on the street, when incompletely cured surface comes into contact with high humidity.
After mixing, give the paint 30-45 minutes to start the reaction and the formation of the polymer structure began. This will help the coating film to behave more predictably after applying to the surface.
After this time, the diluent is added to the paint, the amount and brand of which depends on climatic conditions and method of applying paint (brush or paintopult). It is necessary to dilute the paint, otherwise it is guaranteed a bad filling it. Excessive addition of the diluent does not allow to achieve the desired film thickness and reduces the duration of the preservation of paint gloss in the future.
For work, use a good brush - not necessarily the most expensive, and combined, pork bristles and bull wool type Corona, Redtree, Linzer, or more expensive Hamilton, if you want. Keep them always a few pieces in stock, because most likely one thing will not cost.
Brushes should be thoroughly cleaned immediately after work, then rinse and clean the scraper or metal brush to remove all traces of cured paint. The brush should rinse several times in the solvent with pressing after each time. As a rule, after a two-day use, the brush is more non-suitable for applying the finish layer due to the accumulation of cured paint at its climax. Post aside it - it can still come in handy for applying soils.
Working on the color of large areas like walls of rubbing and sides, we came to the conclusion that foam rollers with phenolic coating are an ideal tool for applying polyurethane paint (for protection against solvent). One person with a roller rolling the area with dimensions from the edge to the edge vertically and 30-45 cm horizontally, a moderately perch roller and distributing the paint in the form of a thin layer. His partner with a brush goes immediately followed and flotsing the surface with two and three movements in the vertical and horizontal direction. Some argue that the last movement of the flushing should be vertical, since it turns out a smaller number of amuses and inclines. Others follow a more traditional technique, spending the last time with flirts in the direction of the side of the side. It seems to me that with the completed vertical movement, the flushing flows are still eliminated yet. In the course of the work, if the paint begins to seem inert, it may be necessary to need additional dilution, as in the case of a brush with an ordinary enamel.
After the first passage of the entire surface and spraying the binder layer, the coating should have a good gloss without clouds. Paints should be applied so much so that with rosy it gave a beautiful mirror surface. Many materials, being applied in the form of a layer of such a thickness at a time, quickly form leaks.
It is necessary to wait until the first layer of paint does not rise to the state of "on the low" (from half an hour to an hour), then apply the second layer. It should also be such a thickness so that a few minutes after applying the surface of the paint stretched and acquired a beautiful gloss. Two passes of the collapse, as a rule, make it possible to achieve sufficient coating thickness.
Various decorative stripes can be applied to the painted surface as soon as the paint acquires sufficient hardness so that it does not damage the malarious tape. This is usually possible the day after the color, although in the conditions of a cold climate of time may require more.
The tool cleaning is easily produced by the solvent of IEC, do not forget about gloves and respirator.
Applying polyurethane varnish
We have a huge experience of applying polyurethane varnishes in any situations, and my advice reflect some important foundations accumulated by the price of many years of experiments and failures.
As in the case of paint, our goal is to obtain a solid film on a solid dry surface. However, in a situation with lacquer, it is also necessary to take into account the effect of exposure to solar radiation on wood. It is best to cover a polyurethane already existing lacquer coating sufficient thickness. Amber color particles and ultraviolet inhibitors contained in varnish, protect the surface of wood from destruction. By itself, the varnish does not have sufficient hardness, its surface is easily scratched and under the influence of the Sun quickly purves. In contrast to him, the polyurethane is solid, has a high gloss and very racks to scratches. It will protect the lacquer and combine the beneficial properties of the other coating. This combination, according to our observations, extends the service life of an ordinary varnish at least 4-5 times, and we are talking about regions such as Florida, South California or tropics.
After a film of the ordinary varnish of the desired thickness was obtained on the surface of the wood, allowing you to hide the surface defects (usually about eight layers), give the last layer to dry and dial hardness. Collect the surface with a glass with grain 220 and cover it with two or three layers of transparent polyurethane varnish, preferably within two or three days, one layer per day. Before applying the subsequent layer, the surface is polished only to remove the adhesive dust and eliminate minor defects. The lacquer film does not have chemical resistance of at least 48 hours after applying, so if the next layer of varnish is applied in this time interval, it is not required to grind the entire surface. If more than two days have passed since the application of polyurethane varnish, the surface should be thoroughly sanded until the gloss is completely eliminated.
In a similar way, we have successfully covered with polyurethane lacquer tick, oak, spruce, pine, cedar, pink tree, hollow, eucalyptus, ash and many other wood breeds. Inside the housing, where there is no ultraviolet radiation, polyurethane varnish can be applied directly to the wood surface, which allows you to create a practically unreal "armor" on the surface of wooden flooring, rundocks, galley and in many other places subject to intensive wear.
Due to the fact that there is nothing easier than laundering the glossy surface of polyurethane, we tried to cover them (with indispensable success) holds, engine compartments and polished brass parts. Polyurethane varnish has proven itself in the form protective coating Epoxy resin on housings with laminated diagonal trim. Polyurethane reduces oxidative processes caused by solar radiation in epoxy resin and its challenge.
Care and repair
Caring for the painted linear polyurethane surface is simple - from time to time wash it with water with soap. The lubricant, oil, paint from other boats, buoys and berths is easily removed from the surface of polyurethane with strong solvents without harming the polyurethane film.
Carefully follow the appearance of any cracks and dents in the coating where water can get and immediately carry out their repair. Remember - water in no case should penetrate the film.
After the completion of all heartbreaking history, the painting inevitable is still destined to happen. A collision with a buoy, the actions of a careless steering or the formation of a bubble lead to the fact that the brilliant appearance of the boat gradually ceases to be the center of universal attention.
A small scratch or chip can be eliminated by mixing a small amount of pigmented paint base with a catalyst. Give her to stand at about an hour after mixing, so that it acquires a more dense consistency. Then take a small brush and use it to fill in the place of defect. If necessary, repeat this procedure several times before filling the scratches flush with the surface.
More significant scratches can be corrected by professional painters owning the spray gun. At the same time, the repair point will be almost different visually. Repair of the damaged area is carried out (preferably) using epoxy putty, the surrounding area is stuck to protect. The surface is grounded with a very thin layer of collapse, polished and paints. If you do not pour the paint all the open area up to the missed border, it will be possible to avoid an unsightly transition. After a couple of days to dry out the surface of the dry aerosol particles along the perimeter of the site, 1500th grain (dry or humid) are slightly polished, then polished with the fine-grained polishing composition, and at the end - the polyrolol for the plexiglass. After that, the surface acquires almost the perfect look.
The owner can repair a damaged area with a brush. In terms of its level, it will look approximately as in the case of repair using conventional enamel paint and will not be as little hot as the professional method described above. I managed to achieve the best results by treating the perimeter of the freshly mounted area with a dry brush, trying to smooth out his flush with the same, as possible. If everything is done correctly, this kind of patchwork is barely noticeable from a distance of several feet.
Is there any benefit?
If the boat was in good condition, and the preparation, painting itself and the subsequent care was carried out correctly - the polyurethane coating is able to serve you for 3-5 years. During this period, the painted surface will be easier to wash and more resist scratches and abrasive wear than the usual enamel coating. Dirt, oil and fuel will pester it much less, and the color is stripped brighter and alive. Losses in the form of two times large expenses on painting are addressed for the third year, even if we consider only the cost of materials.
We all know how much time-consuming the process of raising and painting the boat can be, so after two years later, a polyurethane paint system begins to recoup. The difference in labor costs during priming and painting with polyurethane over a durable existing coating is very small compared to conventional enamel. If you start everything from scratch, i.e. With naked wood - the cost of the color will be undoubtedly more expensive. However, taking into account the fact that over the next ten years, the boat will have only two or two, it is easy to calculate savings. Therefore, you should not fall into depression from counting the cost of the materials necessary for this, take into account the potential of polyurethane capabilities.
The union of wood with polyurethane may be the best combination. The result of the work is completely great and for durability is much higher than the traditional "yacht" enamel. This is my opinion about the packaging of a tree in "Plastics".
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The importance of solvents and their role in the work not only on a tree forces any home master better to know their types, types and properties, as well as what they are made.
Although the terms "solvent" and "diluent" are often used as synonyms, these liquids have completely different properties. (Nevertheless, for simplifications, we will mainly use the word "solvent".) The solvent is a liquid dissolving solids, such as dried varnish. Diluent is a liquid that dilute the veil, paint or varnish to reduce viscosity.
Sometimes liquid only dilutes the finishing composition; In other cases, it is capable of not only to dilute varnish, but also dissolve the drying film of the coating. For example, White-spirited can dilute thick alkyd-oil or polyurethane varnish, but after drying, these varnishes are no longer dissolved in it. On the contrary, alcohol-denature can be dissolved and diluted with shellac (see table at the end of the article).
Learn to understand these substances, without which most of the trim ways are impossible. First, combine all fluids into the main groups and learn what one group differs from the other. Then consider the fluid that are included in each group and find out the differences between them. Having become acquainted with S. basic properties, It can be understood how complex diluents, consisting of different substances work.
Basic groups of solvents
We will not consider special solvents that make up the washes for varnishes and paints, as well as water that is used to dilute the finishing agents on water based And dissolves water dyes. In addition, there are five major solvent groups used in finishing processes: petfoldistillates (oil distillation products), alcohols, ketones, ethers and glycol ethers.
Skipidar could be found to the sixth group, but it is very close to oil profits on the working properties, and it is better to include it in their group. Each of the five groups has its own characteristics. The most common are petrofilants, also called hydrocarbons, since molecules of these substances consist of carbon and hydrogen atoms. The fluid included in this group is obtained by the method of separating oil on fractions at different temperatures. Skipidar is also a product of distillation, but instead of oil, the raw material is used to obtain a resin coniferous trees.
Oil distillates are used to dissolve and dilute wax, oils and oil-based lacquers (including polyurethane). Many of them (for example, White Spirit, Kerosene, Vaseline Oil and Paraffin) have properties that make them similar to wax or oil, and are often used as components of lubricating substance and furniture care compositions. Less oily distillates, such as toluene or xylene, easily remove oil and lubricants and are used for degreasing.
All oil industry and turpentine can be mixed in any proportions. Compared to White Spirit, turpentine more oil and slower evaporates. Toluene and xylene are part of complex (integrated) solvents and diluents for varnish, washes for acrylic paints and diluents for some two-component varnishes. With their help, you can delete even dried glue IVA. Neftelates are used for dilution of industrialized oil-based vehicles.
Alcohol Applied as diluents and solvents of shellac and alcohol dyes, as well as components of diluents for varnishes. Ketones and ethers are used as solvents and diluents for nitroelulous varnishes and paints.
Glycolic esters (for example, the cellullev - the trade name of ethylene glycol) is also diluted and dissolved nitrolac and are often used as a binding supplement in veneers and water-based finishing compositions. Thanks to these solvents, the latex particles of the composition are connected and form a protective film on the wood surface after water evaporates from the coating.
Differences within each group
The essence of the differences between the liquids of each group is the same: the smaller the molecule of the substance, the faster they disappear (evaporated), and vice versa, the liquid consisting of large molecules dries slowly. In addition, large molecules after drying are often left on the surface of the fat or wax flare, and smaller molecules are destroyed, as a rule, without a trace. Visually represent the differences in the substances of the same group, with whom most often have to deal, will help the "oil distillates" scheme. The smallest molecules in this group have methane, which evaporates so quickly that at a conventional temperature is in a gaseous state.
Following methane, ethane, propane, butane, etc., up to octane - quickly evaporating fluid, serving the main component of the automotive fuel are followed by the degree of increasing dimensions of molecules. Then they follow solvent and white spirit (oil solvent less oily and faster evaporates than White spirit). Toluene and xylene - volatile fluids with a sharp smell - get from solvent and White Spirit. Manufacturers are isolated toluene and xylene, and the residue is sold as a white-spirited spire, which is weaker than ordinary White spirit, but wax dissolves in it and it is suitable for diluting oils and oil varnishes. Toluene and xylene evaporate very quickly, not leaving traces. Next liquid with even larger molecules - kerosene. It is very oily and almost not evaporate at room temperature. After kerosene there is mineral oil, which has all the properties of real oils, which practically do not evaporate. And finally, oil wax, or paraffin, is one of the main products of oil distillation. At room temperature it is not a liquid, but solidMelting when heated.
So, we listed almost all major substances included in the oil distillate group. Alcohols, ketones, ethers and glycol ethers differ in each other in the same way - the smaller the molecule, the faster they disappear, and the liquids consisting of large molecules evaporate slowly. Of these four groups, only alcohols and ketones are available and widely used in the finish. In the group of alcohol, methanol (wood alcohol) evaporates the most quickly, much faster than ethanol - alcohol contained in alcoholic beverages and also called wine alcohol. Ethanol as food alcohol is subject to high excise duties, and to avoid taxation, poisonous substances are added to it (usually methanol), making it unsuitable for drinking. Such a mixture is called alcohol-denatuloma or solvent for shellac. Methanol itself is very poisonous, and it should only work with it on the street or in a special picking chamber With powerful ventilation.
In the group of ketones, acetone evaporates faster than methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). The remaining ketones disappear slowly. Solvent can be recognized using a suffix in its name. Alcohols have a suffix "-ol" (methanol, ethanol), ketones - suffix "-on" (acetone, methyl ethyl ketone), Ether -Suffix "-At" (methyl acetate, ethyl cetatat, etc.). In the names of liquids from the group of glycol esters, as a rule, the word "ether" is present. But do not give all these names to mislead or deceive. In most cases, you only need to recall the five basic groups, each of which is used to dissolve or dilute certain substances. Inside each group, the differences between liquids included in it are not so significant and are mainly concluded, only in the speed of their evaporation.
Solvent for nitrolac
After reading the main properties of various groups, you can understand how a combined solvent for nitronelulose varnishes is valid. Being a mixture of several substances, it can have different evaporation speed, and its properties depend on the composition and proportions of components included in it.
The main substance of the lacquer is the mine molecules of nitrocellulose, with a strong magnification under the microscope similar to Spaghetti. So that they do not stick together with each other and more convenient to apply lacquered by spraying, a large amount of fluid is required. If the molecules face, being too close to each other, varnish becomes viscous, and when it is applied with spraying on the surface of the film, a so-called shagreen is formed, resembling the skin of an orange.
For the application of the sprayer, the varnish should not be viscous; A sufficiently small amount of solvent to separate the nitrocellulose molecules from each other. The composition of the nitroquacure solvent is usually contained about 40-50% of the active substance, which is a solvent of varnish molecules: acetone, ether or glycolic ether. The rest can be any liquid serving a kind of "diluent for solvent." Typics are commonly used, which do not dissolve varnish, but only dilute it even more. These fluids are usually relatively cheap and allow to reduce the price of the combined solvent for nitrolacs. Approximately 50-60% of such a combined solvent is a diluent. Toluene, xylene, or mixture thereof, and sometimes the oil solvent is included in the solvent. The cost of the combined solvent can be reduced even more by replacing the part of the active solvent with alcohol, the mixture bowl. Although alcohols themselves do not dissolve nitrolac, they sharply reduce its viscosity, being mixed with acetone or another active solvent. Therefore, in combined solvents, in addition to the active solvent and diluent, there is often some alcohol, which serves as the so-called latent (hidden) diluent.
Knowing these properties, it is possible to find out what is sold under the name of the washing for nitroqua and shellac, which amateurs often use to update finishing coatings Furniture. As a rule, this is an ordinary combined solvent. You can make sure that by reading the names of the components on the label. For use, a combined solvent must have a thoroughly selected composition as a thinner nitrol. A sufficient amount of active solvent and latent diluent is needed to fully dissolve the nitrocellulose molecules. Otherwise, the molecules stick into tiny lumps, and a whitish flask is often formed on the lacquer film, well known to many joiners using nitrolac for finishing. If you encountered this phenomenon and put the lacquer turned, to correct the situation will help lightly grinding a dry lacquer film and spraying on top of it solvent, which will return to her shine and transparency. (Combined solvents in retail sale, as a rule, contain an insufficient percentage of an active solvent. For successful correction of the Whole nitrolak film, we recommend adding a little pure acetone to the purchased solvent to be completely dissolved to completely dissolve varnish particles.)
Manufacturers often declare that only the combined solvent is suitable for working with their nitrolac. However, if you do not have any problems with the behavior of the lacquer film, then there is no reason to go to the solvent recommended by the manufacturer. If you apply a nitrolac with a sprayer, then surely managed to notice its unique property well to hold on vertical surfaces. It does not flow down like oil varnish, Shellac or water formulations, and with neat work, the drums are not formed. The reason for this property lies in long molecules of nitrocellulose and the rapid evaporation of the diluent. As soon as the jet of diluted lacquer flies out of the nozzle of the paint pistol and turns into the smallest fog droplets, the diluent evaporates, and the molecules begin to stick together with each other. Having achieved the surface of the product, the varnish acquires a greater viscosity and does not drain. The remaining solvent is enough only on the leveling of the lacquer film, then these remnants evaporate.
The percentage of active solvent in products of different manufacturers may be different; For this reason, the properties of combined solvents may differ greatly, since they affect them mainly, the rate of evaporation of the active solvent. Survived combined solvents can be divided into three categories: standard solvents for nitrol and nitroemali, evaporating with "normal" speed; so-called leveling, which evaporate slowly more than standard; And fast (sold usually in autocostectors), wealthy faster than everyone else. Unfortunately, manufacturers do not have mandatory standards, therefore it is necessary to experiment, selecting a combined solvent with an optimal evaporation rate among all three categories. However, mixing solvents from different categories, You can achieve the desired result. Under normal conditions (at a temperature of 24 ° C and air humidity, 40%), the rate of evaporation of a standard combined solvent is optimal, but in cold weather (5 ° -15 ° C), the nitroquac diluted with this solvent dries very slowly. With a long drying to the surface of the lacquer, it time to settle more dust, and they are embedded in varnish. The finish process slows down significantly. You can speed up drying with a rapid solvent or partially adding it to the standard. In hot weather, NITROLAK's droplets simply do not have time to crush over the surface to form a smooth film. Sometimes they can even dry in the air before they fall on the surface.
The coating is obtained by rough and dim. If the ambient air is not only hot, but also wet, the droplets of the varnish are captured by moisture, and the coating film becomes whites. You can get rid of three problems at once (poor spraying, premature drying and whiteness) using a slow solvent or adding it to the standard one. If you live in a very wet climate and the slow solvent you use does not help get rid of the lacquer command, experience the products of other manufacturers to find more suitable. Slow solvents can be used to combat shaggy, to apply a varnish with a brush, as well as for finishing complex products, such as chairs or inner walls of cabinets and boxes, when part of the varnish is settled on already dried surfaces. It is often possible to achieve an optimal result with combined solvents only with the help of experiments, since manufacturers do not inform the speed of evaporation of their solvents, and the drying time of the nitroquone coating has to be determined by the patriot and errors. But, having some experience and using the same grades of solvents, you will be able to fully control the finish process.
Safety when working with chemical solvents and diluents
In recent years, more and more finishing compositions on water-based and safe washes appear, and this makes many carefully look at organic solvents and their influence on environment. Undoubtedly, the future of carpentry finishes - in water compositions, but time is required for the full transition. However proper use and storing solvents remains an acute problem for small workshops.
In fact, many of us are aware that solvent pairs are a more serious threat than liquids? Having learned some information, you will be more attentive to potentially dangerous substances and you can reduce the risk to a minimum.
White Spirit - Liquid oil distillation product, used as a diluent and means for removing wax and oils, as well as rinsing of brushes. It reduces viscosity, providing deeper penetration into wood and accelerating the drying of the compositions on an oil basis. At the rate of evaporation occupies an intermediate position between slowly evaporating turpentine and quickly volatile solvent. Almost no smell, which makes it difficult to determine the excessive amount of its vapors in the air. Fortunately, White Spirit is considered one of the safest solvents.
Turpentine - Liquid obtained by distillation resin coniferous trees. Used as a diluent and cleaning agent for removing oil pollution. Due to slow drying, the White Spirit may be preferable in some cases. It has strong unpleasant odor. If you get on the skin relatively safe, with the exception of people with increased sensitivity. However, it is firewood and sometimes can ignite spontaneously. Never keep a rag in the workshop, soaked with turpentine, even moistened with water.
Oil solvent - Quickly evaporates that in some cases it can be useful, but it is also easily flammable. Remember the main rule: if the solvent evaporates rapidly, it has a low flash point, so fire hazardous. Do not use indoors with flammable liquids, such as solvent or combined solvent, whose pairs can flash from the slightest spark in the electrical outlet or switch. Solvent is usually used to remove traces of wax and oil, as well as for softening and polishing mastic based on shellac.
Solvents for nitrolac - a mixture of several liquids, whose properties differ depending on the brand. For best compatibility It is usually recommended to use a solvent and varnish of one manufacturer. Solvents have a sharp smell, and it does work with them unpleasant. Being added to nitrolac, they improve the spreadability and leveling of the coating film, making the shine more uniform. They also provide better adhesion due to deeper penetration into wood and accelerate drying. Like solvent, not recommended for use in premises due to high fire hazard.
Methanol. - a very effective solvent and sllake diluent and other compositions on alcohol basisBut it causes corrosion of many metals and damage already ready-made coatings. Despite the excellent work properties, it is one of the most dangerous solvents. It is better to replace it with ethyl or isopropyl alcohol for safety. Methanol, like methylene chloride, requires a very careful appeal. Normal coal filters Respirators do not delay the pairs of these solvents. When buying a respirator, find out whether it is designed to work with these substances. Remember - not all respirators are the same.
When working with any organic solvents and diluents, comply with the rules fire safety And personal hygiene, so as not to at risk their health and life. Make a workshop place where you can work without fear of trouble.
Which solvent what to breed, dilute - Table
SUBSTANCE | Dissolves | Dilute |
White Spirit Solvent Turpentine | Wax | Wax Butter Oil varnish Polyurethane |
Toluene Xylene. | Wax Water based coatings | Wax Butter Oil varnish Polyurethane Modified lacquer |
Alcohol | Shellac | Shellac |
Polyurethane paints and varnishes Widely used in the furniture industry, and in construction supermarkets you can easily find these paints and varnish materials for domestic use. Therefore, we believe that it makes sense to get in detail with the properties of polyurethane paints and varnishes.
Polyurethane paints and varnishes (paints, varnishes, primers) are a large group of polymers:
- The main component of polyurethane resins are polyols, synthesized on the basis of substances traditionally used for alkyd LKM, therefore the price of polyurethane materials is relatively low. Polyols are oligomers consisting of sufficiently large molecules that have about several tens of active sites.
- The second component of polyurethane are hardeners based on diisocyanates consisting of small molecules with two active sections. Under the film formation, the active sections of diisocyanates are associated with active areas of polyols, while the urethane connection is formed.
- One polyol molecule can be associated with diisocyanates with many other polyol molecules and so on. Thus, polyurethane lkm films are obtained, having a branched three-dimensional mesh structure. Such films are resistant to water, acids, mineral and organic oils, gasoline, oxidizing agents.
Parry permeability of polyurethane paints, varnishes, soils are an order lower than that of nitrocellulosic.
Polyurethane paints, varnishes, soils are used mainly to finish wooden products indoors.
The ratio of components in polyurethane paints and varnish
The components of the working mixture of polyurethane paints and varnishes are usually mixed up two parts of the resin plus one part of the hardener immediately before use, since the lifetime of polyurethane materials is small: 3-6 hours.
The ratio of the base and hardener in the working mixture is obtained, such that the number of bonds between molecules is obtained equal to 60-90% of the maximum possible.
Deviations of the amount of hardener in the working mixture from a given proportion within ± 10% do not lead to a significant change in the properties of the coating.
Solvents for polyurethane varnishes and paints
The solvents of polyurethane materials are mixtures of liquids with a low boiling point, impurities of alcohols and water in them are unacceptable.
For polyurethane materials, a cultivation paste system has been developed that can be added to varnishes in a significant amount - up to 30% without deteriorating the operational properties of materials.
Using a variety of polyurethane materials, you can get finishes of almost any given type: from a simple single-layer to exclusive.
In the domestic technical literature, the decorative properties of polyurethane coatings are made to distinguish with the term "silkiness".
Dried polyurethane coatings are deprived of any toxicity, allow contact with them, produced polyurethane materials Certified in a strict European standard relating to the safety of toys.
Chemistry for parquet is a group of goods used to protect and decorate wood floor, wall-mounted and ceiling coatings. This includes varnishes and paints, primer mixtures and putty, simulation and tinting, adhesives, antiseptic means, solvents and diluents. A large number of Varnishes purchased in the shop in most cases a liquid, already ready for applying a mixture. The question appears: is it possible, and how to dilute varnish if he is viscous through CHUR?
When diluting a varnish, the main thing is to execute the correct proportions
To answer this question, several factors should be taken into account. The very first, pay attention to the key composition of the mixture. Second, choose the required solvent. Third, with stirring, we observe the proportion so as not to reduce the quality of the material. Consider more detailed than you can dilute the thickened varnish and how to perform it according to the rules? And also, what to use to remove an old coating with a protective effect from wood and what tool care?
Dilute, divorce or dissolve
At first glance, no difference. With the help of a special means, we give a varnish substance in the "Work Status". The solvent is referred to as a liquid that dissolves dried varnish, leading it from a solid state into liquid. We use the diluent if you need to adjust (reduce) the viscosity of the paints.
Specific types of organic eluents protrude in two roles, but some can be effective in one task and are completely useless to another. So, for example, White-spirit can be diluted with the compositions of polyurethane, alkyd and oil groups. However, if the lacquer dust, dissolve his White spirit will not be released.
Using White Spirit, you can dilute certain varnishes
But the shellats, on the contrary, are equally dissolved and diluted with denatants. However, I will not go into such subtle details.
If a council is required about how to dilute varnish or, to apply for breeding paints, it is better to take advice with specialists.
Polyurethane mixes
As part of varnishes on a polyurethane, paints, primer mixtures, adhesives and another containing polyurethane - modern polymeric material. The totality of its parameters is superior to such famous materials like rubber, plastic, rubber, metal. To obtain paints and adhesive solutions of high strength, in the commodity production, it (polyurethane) is mixed with special chemical extensions.
A lot of varnishes on a polyurethane-based basis and water-based. This chemistry for the parquet varies with environmental friendliness and non-toxicity.
If necessary, make a substance more liquid, you can use the diluent of the compositions on a polyurethane basis:
- toluene;
- xylene;
- acetone;
- eluents type P-4, P-5.
Acetone - a modern means for diluting varnishes on a polyurethane basis
Alkyd mixes
Alkyd compositions have good adhesion, moisture resistance, insensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, reliability. They can be used for internal and external work. In alkyd mixtures there is a main element, organic solvents, seeds (for speedy grasp), additives. The key element may be:
- pentafthalic resin;
- glyphthalic resin with cotton oil;
- a mixture of melamine-formaldehyde and alkyd resins.
To enhance the parameters of materials, the parts of alkyd resins are often included in the composition of multicomponent varnishes, paints, enamels. A classic diluent here is the White Spirit.
Bituminous mixes
Bituminous varnish is a mixture of a bitumen of a specialized brand, a variety of resins and oils. After drying on the surface, a strong black film will appear, moisture-resistant, insensitive to the effects of chemistry. He is considered new enough in household use material. Refers to the category of inexpensive. It is often used as an anti-corrosion layer for protection.
For surface surfaces, it is used when it is not necessary to highlight the natural texture of the base (instead of the paints). The bitumen material found use as a decorative coating for the surface composition (patina) effect. Another original characteristic of bitumen mixtures is a cool gluing. A solution based on bitumen White Spirit is diluted.
So that it does not thicken during storage, the packaging is obliged to be hermetic. The storage place should be dark (without direct radiation of the Sun), with moderate temperature and humidity.
Bituminous varnish very reliably protects the surface from the manifestation of moisture and influences of chemistry, diluted with White Spirit
Yacht varnish
The yacht (or yacht) varnish is considered one of the very effective means of protecting the surface of a natural tree. Already from the name, the specifics of the sphere where it is used is clear. In addition, the yacht is suitable for wood work outside and inside any objects (not only boats, boats, yachts). It is insensitive to the manifestations of moisture, temperatures, aggressive environments.
Yacht varnish. Important characteristics:
- greater degree of protection of wood structures;
- physical and mechanical immunity to the effects of ambient media;
- durability, an increase in the service life of the wood.
To achieve such results, poisonous elements of chemistry (toluene, xylene) are used during the manufacture of material. Multiple production technologies are distinguished:
- alkyd yacht (based on organic solvent White spirit);
- uretan-alkyd yacht (eluent is the same, but in smaller quantities);
- alkyd-urethane yacht (dissolving additives own strong volatility);
- acrylates (water-based compositions).
Delivens the yacht lacquer White spirititis, no more than 5% of the total volume. The solvent acts on the substance is extremely fresh. After drying, the lacquered coating from the parquet will become immune.
Lacquer for yachts, boats, boats have greater wear resistance and also diluted with White Spirit
How to remove dried varnish
Above, mostly, listed ways to make a better consistency, if the lacquer thickened. And what should be done to remove varnishes and paints from painting tools? Is it possible to remove material based on synthetics from wood after applying?
Outdated furniture or parquet lacquer remove from the surface of the tree just will not come out. In most cases, where it is real, cycling or grinding is used. For non-mechanical removal, the type of dissolving substance is chosen personally. The key composition and chemical properties varnishing.
The easiest method of removing unsuitable already parquet coating With a protective effect - the use of a specialized washing. The substance is a chemical mixture. You can use liquid, gel or powder. Acetone copes with the simplest types of paints and varnishes. For shooting, the shellac is more suitable for denaturates.
First, the liquid, gel or powder are applied to the lacquer surface. Then it is necessary to wait softening the film. To accelerate the process, it is recommended to cover the trimmed surface with polymer ethylene. After time (from 40 minutes to 4 hours), the outdated varnish will begin to swear, darken. What to do next?
To remove the softened varnish, it is convenient to use the spatula. It is necessary to work carefully not to damage the surface of the tree. What to do if from the first time an old coating for protection was not fully deleted? If it is necessary to repeat the finish.
To remove the remains of the substance with painting tools apply:
- Warm water and soap solution is washed off with water-based parquet;
- White spirit, kerosene, terrentin are suitable for many paints based on organic solvent solvents. The remains of the substances are perfectly broken, then the tool is washed with some means home chemistry And it is pretty rugged in water.
Selecting the type of eluent for breeding paints and varnishes, the main thing is to carefully study the composition, and also use the tips of the manufacturer specified on the packaging.
It must be remembered about the means of personal protection, especially if work is to be working with strongly smelling, quick-drying compositions. Air ventilation during and after work will save from poisoning toxic couples. Save these materials need further from the kids.
From this article you will learn:
Such surfaces in the apartment, like floors, concrete walls, furniture, interior items, constantly threatens many aggressive external factors: hot dishes, spilled liquids and food, heels and others acute subjects, household chemicals. As a means of protection that maintains integrity and appearance Surfaces are used polyurethane varnish. It is easily applied and forms a durable quick-drying film, and the diluent for polyurethane varnishes provides the remedy for the necessary consistency.
What is the diluent for polyurethane varnishes
Sometimes the term "solvent" is used in the "diluent" value, but it is not entirely correct: these liquids are different in composition and functions. The solvent is a liquid that dissolves the solidified substance (polyurethane or other varnish, for example), and the diluent is a liquid used to reduce the viscosity of any means (varnish, paints, veneers, etc.).
Some fluids are capable only to dilute the means for finishing the premises, others are not only diluted, but also can dissolve the dried film of varnish or some other coating. Thus, the White spirit can serve as a diluent for a polyurethane or dense alkyd-oil varnish, however, the striking, these compositions cease to dissolve in it. But the denatured alcohol is simultaneously with a solvent, and a sllake diluator.
Polyurethane varnishes are a mixture of a polyurethane oligomer solution and organic solvents. When selecting a diluent for polyurethane varnish, it is necessary to ensure that the lacquer contains alcohols, gasolines and nitrogen components and at the same time contained acetates or aromatic hydrocarbons.
Aromatics (toluene, xylene), estrices (ethyl acetates, butyl acetates, ethyl glycol acetate), ketones (acetone, methyl ethyl ketone, methylisobutyl-ketone, cyclohexanone) are used for solvents and diluents for polyurethane varnishes. All components of polyurethane varnishes, as well as diluents for them, should not have in their composition hydroxyl-containing compounds (for example, alcohols, water), which react with isocyanates.
In addition, the presence in solvents and diluents for polyurethane varnishes of benzene, pyrobenzene and methanol is eliminated.
Give preference to diluents famous brandsIn this case, you can not worry about the quality of the coating.
As thinners for polyurethane varnishes to the desired viscosity, solvents are usually used solvents P-4, P-4A (GOST 7827-7), in which 10-30% (for applying a varnish with a brush) or all 100% solvent (if the paintopult works) .
Processing the surface with polyurethane varnishes, consider their low viability: after the lacquer was mixed with the diluent and the rest of the ingredients, you can work with it for only 12 hours (at a temperature of +20 ° C).
Characteristics of diluents for polyurethane varnishes
Solvent R-4
It consists of:
- 26% acetone;
- 62% toluene;
- 12% butyl acetate.
The diluent (solvent) P-4 for polyurethane varnishes has a form of a transparent colorless or a little yellowish liquid of homogeneous consistency (without visible precipitate and floating particles).
Specification of the diluent P-4: The mass fraction of water in it is 0.7%, the frequency coefficient is 5-15, coagulation - no more than 24%, and an acid number - up to 0.07 mg of con / g.
Solvent R-4A
Composition of funds:
- 38% acetone;
- 62% toluene.
This diluent for polyurethane varnishes looks the same as the previous one. According to the specification, it is also similar to the diluent P-4.
Solvent R-189
It is a mixture of compounds:
- 37% of ethylene glycol acetate;
- 37% methyleletics;
- 13% xylene;
- 13% butyl acetate.
This means used when working with polyurethane varnish, also looks like a light yellow or colorless liquid.
Specification of the diluent (solvent) R-189: Water is not more than 0.7% of the mass of matter, the relative volatility of xylene is 1.2-1.6.
This diluent is used for lacquer brands such as the UR-293, UR-294.
It has the following standards for the working area: the limit threshold concentration (in the USA denoted by TLV) - 750 ppm; 1780 mg / m 3 (ACGIH 1993-1993).
RL-176 solvent
Includes:
- ½ cyclohexanone;
- ½ solvent.
It has a liquid consistency, not painted (but in some cases has a light yellowish tint).
Specification of the RL-176 solvent for polyurethane varnishes: no more than 2% of water from the entire mass of the means, volatility by xylene - 1.5-4.5.
We are necessary for working with such a paintwork, like varnish AC-176.
Characterized by the following standards for the working area: TLV 750 PPM; 1780 mg / m 3 (ACGIH 1993-1993).
RL-176 Solvent
The composition of the solvent for polyurethane varnishes RL-176 ur brand A:
- 50% ethylene glycol acetate;
- 50% cyclohexanone.
Brands b:
- 50% ethylene glycol acetate;
- 50% methyleletics.
Brands in:
- 50% ethylene glycol acetate;
- 50% methyleletics.
The tool looks like transparent, sometimes with a yellowish tinge, a liquid, homogeneous and without suspended particles.
The solvent has the following specification: up to 2% of water in total mass, volatility for xylene - 1.5-4.5.
Used together with Laca UR-277, UR-277 M, UR-277 P, UR-268 P.
Safety technique when working with a diluent for polyurethane varnishes
Solvents and diluents are gradually torn to polyurethane varnish, gently stirring it and bringing to the required consistency. Before that, you need to wear a special protective mask and rubber gloves - all these compositions are dangerous for health, therefore compliance with safety technicians. The room in which varnish is mixed must be well ventilated.
If the diluent fell on the skin, immediately rinse the affected area with warm water. Capacities with polyurethane varnish and diluent closed tight after work, and then the diluent is referred to dark place. The mixture is kept in reliably protected from ultraviolet rays, fireproof and inaccessible to children room.
Danger for man
Using solvents and diluents in working with paint materials, know that almost any construction and household chemicals are toxic, so do not forget to take the necessary security measures.
Even a single effect of a concentrated diluent for polyurethane varnish (or rather, his evaporation) on the human body is dangerous for the eyes and respiratory tract, as well as for the skin. CNS, liver and kidney, digestive system can be amazed.
Long-term contact of the skin with a diluent (solvent) can lead to dermatitis, and in heavy cases - To the problems with the bone marrow and blood.
Using diluents for polyurethane varnishes, in the workplace follow the rules of GOST 12.1.005.
The concentration of poisonous substances in the air in the workplace is measured using the techniques described in GOST 12.1.005 and 12.1.016, approved by government health authorities.
Fire danger
The diluent for polyurethane varnishes is a flammable and flammable substance (class 3.1 LVZ, the flare point is less than +23 ° C), so it needs to be stored in a safe place, away from sources open fire and sparks. It is impossible to smoke near the container with a diluent. A mixture of evaporation of diluent with air is explosive.
At temperatures from +20 ° C, the diluent for polyurethane varnishes rather quickly pollutes the ambient air (and if the means is sprayed, then even faster).
The diluent pairs are heavier than atmospheric air, they are stealing along the ground and can cause a fire at some distance from the tank with the substance.
Interacting S. strong oxidizing agents - nitric or acetic acid, hydrogen peroxide - the diluent is capable of forming explosive substances. Under normal conditions, react with bromophorm and chloroform, which is fraught with explosions and fires. Also, the diluent destroys some types of plastic materials.
It is possible to carry out the tanned diluent for polyurethane varnish with:
- chemical foam;
- carbon dioxide;
- water (dispersion spray);
- air (mechanical way).
Transportation
Solvents and diluents for polyurethane varnishes are supplied to a glass or metal of 0.5-10 liters. You can only transport these formulations in a tightly closed dish protected from heating, direct sun ray and moisture ingress. Transportation is allowed only in specialized railway tanks or vehicles. Such precautions are due to the fact that the dissolving mixtures of explosion and fires are highly large.
For the transportation of dissolving compositions, in particular, the diluent for polyurethane varnish, the tanks belonging to the supplier or the buyer are used by rail, or rental according to the transportation rules rail transport Cargo in bulk in tank wagons and bunker wagons for the transportation of the petrochetum. It is also allowed to transport the diluent in special containers-tanks for hazardous liquid goods of class 3 (see "Transport Rules dangerous cargo by railways»).
Diluents for polyurethane varnishes, filled into containers for transportation, transported in covered freight cars or in universal containers (see "Rules for the transport of dangerous goods by rail" and " Technical conditions Placement and fastening of goods in cars and containers ").
Environmental Protection Requirements
Production of diluents for polyurethane varnishes is associated with the formation of gaseous or liquid waste representing the environmental hazard for the atmosphere and reservoirs.
To protect the atmospheric air from toxic impurities, compliance with the maximum permissible emissions (PDV) established by GOST 17.2.3.02. The procedure for the implementation of this control is determined by the relevant executive authorities of the Russian Federation.
As for the protection of water (in particular, fishery reservoirs) from poisonous drains, then for them there are also extremely permissible concentrations and approximately safe levels of exposure, which is monitored by government instances.
Liquid waste, which are contaminated solvent mixtures (including diluents for polyurethane varnishes), or drained into claiming facilitiesOr return to production, where they are collected and then processed for reuse.
Where to buy diluent for polyurethane varnishes
You can purchase high-quality and safe paintwork materials, including a diluent for polyurethane varnishes, you can in our company - Rainbow JSC.
Rainbow JSC has been operating since 1991 (former "centermebelkomplekt", "Decor-1"). The company was organized for the supply of enterprises that are part of CJSC Centrholebel.
Today, the company's permanent business partners are not only russian manufacturersBut also leading companies in Germany, Austria, France, Italy, Switzerland, Finland, Poland, Sweden. Our office is located in the center of Moscow, as well as its own warehouse complex with an exhibition hall with an area of \u200b\u200b200 m².
On our warehouses located in the near Moscow region, always in stock big choice Raw materials, materials and components for the production of furniture and joinery. In the range of more than 300 names of varnishes and 400 dyes names, focus on selling varnishes and dyes with a dry residue.
At the request of buyers, our team makes polyurethane enamels of almost all colors for one or two days. We offer glues from five leading manufacturers of Europe, veneer Natural and lumber - more than 60 names of ordinary, exotic and exclusive rocks. In stock There are constantly facial and fastening accessories - more than 4,000 items from manufacturers from Europe: Austria, Poland, Germany, etc.
Every month we process applications more than 1,800 clients. These include both large furniture factories and private entrepreneurs.
Deliveries of goods are carried out throughout Russia. Our company is free of charge products in Moscow. Products are sent by road throughout the regions of Russia.
Our company is serious about the preparation of their own specialists. Managers systematically undergo internships in engagement finishing materials Germany, Italy, Austria, Finland. Our company's employees provide technical assistance to customers.
We invite you to cooperate on mutually beneficial terms! We value our customers and try to find an individual approach to each buyer.
