"The woman is created for a man, not a man for a woman" - such a postulate ...
Build a boat from fiberglass with their own hands
From the editorial office: the article offered to the attention of readers. The article introduces the method of independent construction of small vessels from fiberglass recommended by Bruce Roberts-Hudzon * for boats and yachts of relatively large dimensions (7.5-18 m long). For example, for the construction of the boat "Waverunner-285", the drawings of the general location and the sketch of the buildings of the body of which are given here. This is a fairly seaside glissing boat that can be used for marine walks and tourism. The vessel has an increased surface board and a significant width, which allows you to place in the bow - a comfortable salon with a galley and a toilet, and in a fodder, - under the cockpit, double sleeping cabin. The office is placed on a motor compartment; It is protected by inclined windshield, which creates a wind shadow as well as in the feed cockpit equipped with soft sofas.
Thanks to the big width of the cheekbone, the boat has a high stability in the parking lot, and the increased keystroke the bottom in the feed contributes to a gentle course on the excitement. All the outdoor sheets are easily unfolded onto the plane, so water-resistant phaneer can be applied to the trim. Drawings are designed in two options - plastic and wooden design.
Basic data of the boat "Waverunner-285"
The length is the highest, m 8,73
Quality length, m 7,33
The width is the largest, m 3,05
Precipitate, m 0,51
Engine power, l. from. 250-500
Speed, km / h 28-56
General view of the boat, the technology of construction of which is considered in the article
General location of the boat
The boat is designed to install one or two engines with a total capacity of 250 to 500 liters. from. With direct reverse gear, which allows you to develop a speed of 15 to 30 knots (28-56 km / h). The boat can also be installed propulsive complexes with angular swivel columns or powerful suspended motors.
This boat is called "Scandinavian express" - thousands of such family boats are furiously by the water of traditional places of recreation of Swedish, Norwegian and Danish yachtsmen.
The experience of foreign shipbuilders of amateurs indicates that the ship, built on its own, costs the owner by 50% and even 75% cheaper than acquired in the shipyard. But the main incentive for many lovers remains the joy of creativity and the knowledge of the subtleties of a variety of professions that need to master the builder of the Small Ship.
The proposed technology of building buildings from fiberglass is not the last word in a small shipbuilding - it simply reflects the experience gained by many fans shipbuilders in the independent construction of single ships or a small series of united owners. The method provides for the manufacture of the necessary snap-ins with minimal cost Materials and labor and most suitable for construction of boats up to 18 m or yachts with simplified knowledge, the outer covering of which is unfolded to the plane.
As with the construction of vessels from other materials, it is necessary to start with breakdown on a plywood shield or a sheet of cardboard theoretical splits and an obligation of the belt in full size. The shield or plas must have a width equal to the width of the building of the housing plus 300 mm; Its height should be greater than the body height of about 400 mm. This will make it right on the plasma breakdown to collect the transverse patterns of the splits and the Forstev. The top ends of all the splits must be extended to a certain height, which is shown on the plaza, the horizontal line perpendicular to the DP line and called Shergen Lini. The position of this line should be chosen given that after assembling the matrix for molding the case, it will have to work in it and it is important that the scorch-planks be at the top did not create inconvenience. Scherga-planks significantly simplify the installation of lecop on the basis of the matrix and verify the correctness of the regimens.
When plasoic marking, globe should take into account the thickness of the rails and sheet material that the inner surface of the matrix will be affected. That is, it is necessary from the theoretical line of each spline to postpone the length of the thickness of the plates and the skin and already on this markup, it is necessary to cut the details of the patterns and make them assembly. To transfer the line with a plaza to the material, you can use tracking or by posting the nails hts along the line, impose a blank and press it to get a print of hats on wood (see, for example, p. 132 of the books "15 projects of ships for amateur buildings" , 1985, Ld, "Shipbuilding" - ed.).
Separate parts of the transverse patterns are connected using linings and books from plywood pieces with a thickness of 8-10 mm, if we are talking about a case with a length of about 10 m. The lining is better to glue to the patterns and secure on nails or screws. When setting the lining should be taken into account that it may later be necessary to remove the Malka from the edge, so the edges of plywood and metal fasteners should be positioned at a sufficient distance from the working edge.
Before collecting flowed into the matrix, it is worth thinking about the convenience of molding outdoor. To this end, it is necessary to provide for the opportunity to tilt the matrix on both boards so that it is possible to conduct work while standing on the floor, or to fix two round rims of large diameters on the matrix, which will allow it to be converted into any position by rolling through the floor. In any case, the matrix must be a sufficiently strong and rigid construction so that when the construction is not distorted, the shape of the hull provided for by the project. Large matrices are harvested on longitudinal beams that form a horizontal base, inside the windows are mounted for ease of work on the case.
By installing the longitudinal bars of the base of the matrix, it is necessary to place the position of all patterns on them and pull along the steel wire - the string denoting the DP of the vessel. The second string can be pulled at the height of the Shergen-line. On the Shergen-Planka of each mocked and on the bottoms of it should be in advance the risks of the DP, for which each melon is installed on the base. At the same time, with the help of a plumb, the verticality of each pattern is controlled, and for controlling their perpendicularity of the DP of the ship, you need to make a large carpentry right triangle. Simultaneously establishes molds of the belt.
Panting the splint sets, located in the nose from the Middle Spangout, we advise you to put the markup on line so that the nasal edge began to coincide with this line, and the feed patterns are combined with their feed edge with the theoretical line of the spline. In this case, you can avoid malalags or significantly reduce its volume when the matrix is \u200b\u200btrimmed by longitudinal rails.
Matrix design for the manufacture of plastic hull boat
1 - longitudinal bars of foundations; 2 - plywood books; 3 - TRANCE sewing with rails;
4 - transverse patterns of the tricks; 5 - Trana rack in DP; 6 - sewing rails;
7 - Upper stripping timber at Shergen-line level; 8 - pamped on the splits; 9 - Rake on the upper edge of the side; 10 - plywood lining in the intervals between the patterns;
11 - dilation; 12 - Laman Forstevnya; 13 - milestone keel; 14 - Reiki, drawing up Sklu;
15 - Boards struck on the splits; 16 - bars of suspended forests; 17 - flooring used in molding the hull; 18 - radius of rounding cheekbones formed by epoxy putty with filler; 19 - sheet material (plywood, organitis);
20 - notch for the keel matrix; 21 - Shergen-Planck Pekal.
Breasing on the plaza plazov lecturer Matrix
1 - rough line; 2 - the scan of the leaf of the convex transaction; 3 - the size that should be postponed from the intensity of the theoretical swarthhum (the thickness of the leaf firmware matrix plus the thickness of the ridges); 4 - leaf; 5 - the main line.
Starting the installation of globes is best with Middle Spangout. Making sure that it was made vertically and perpendicular to the DP, secure it reliably to the bases of the ground, put the breakdown in order to use it as a base for the installation of melts of other spangles. Having established everything patterns, including the mandrels of the belt, and the rack located in the DP of the Trana, which shifting them with disconsees to exclude any movement, can begin to cover the inner surface of the matrix with longitudinal rails.
For this purpose, racks are used with a thickness of 12-15 mm and a width of 50 mm. For the bottoms may be more comfortable racks up to 100 mm wide. The length of the rail must exceed the length of the housing by 100-150 mm for the convenience of fitting. First, you install two rains on the cheekbone - one is allowed on board, and the second on the bottom. Then they put the rails along the top edge of the side. Elevative ends of the rivers are released for the corps of the body - they are used when installing the transom. If the trauma has die, then you need to install one or more templates located across the transom and fixed to the rack in the DP. Then the surface of the future transnta is trimmed with vertical slats. Usually there is no need to mount on-board and transit rails together - it is enough to put overlays from plywood outside near the place of their docking to get a smooth pairing of surfaces. It will not be superfluous to check the correctness of the transmission of the transaction, putting it from the inside of the matrix pattern, carved from the cardboard on theoretical drawing.
String design with single-layer trim:
a - designer (can be made of one or more polyfoam bars depending on the size of the cross section of the Stringer); b - a typical cross section of a stringer in the form of a trapezium; B - the shelf decks (inner private bar); g - basement beam under the engine
1 - foam designer; 2 - Stroke from fiberglass layers; 3 - outdoor casing; 4 - falsebort; 5 - "Wet Square"; 6 - informing the shelf to the sides of the side; 7 - Country of the foundation; 8 - metal sleeve, preventing crumpled of foam under the bolt; 9 - bolt; 10 - rubber gasket.
With a different method, you can collect the transom matrix in the form of a separate node and to hind it in its place. Simultaneously with the trim, the rails are starting to formulates on board and the bottom of the matrix. In order not to get a skew of the matrix and twisting of the housing, the rails need to be put alternately from one and other sides, scoring nails in the edge of the pattern. When all the rails are delivered, from the outdoor side they put the transverse plywood strips with a thickness of 10-12 mm, which provide the relationship between all the rails and the smoothness of the regiments between the patterns. One part of the bands is located on the cheekbones to the keel, and the other - from the cheekbones to the top edge of the side. Rakes are attached to these strips with nails, which are clogged through each rail. At the same time, one person scores nails, and the second supports the inside the plywood bar with a massive blank to ensure a dense link of the rail with the lining.
After making sure the smoothness of the regiments indicated by the rails, you can proceed to the inner firmware of the surface of the matrix over the rails sheet Material - three to four millimeter plywood, organota, etc. Sheet material must be glued to the slats with any glue, for example, a bustilate and try to use as little nails as possible. Their heads leave a trace on the surface of the body, filmed from the matrix, and their putty requires a lot of effort. Sewing sheets should be set consistently small sites. Sending one sheet at the place, coil the surfaces adjacent to it with glue, then lay the sheet into place and press it with sand bags, bricks, etc. separate sheets Carefully customize and after hardening the glue is putty. The epoxy putty is also used in all pairs to perform them along the radius, which can be put on the reinforcement glass material.
Constructive housing knots with three-layer trim:
a - shelf decks; b - the connection of the deck, with a side without a falseboard; in - installation of the deck panel to the shelf; M - forming a deck and a falseboard; d - section of cheek
1 - Wooden aggregate; 2 - the designer of the shelf of three polyfoam bars; 3 - body cover; 4 - outer layer of fiberglass; 5 - inner layer of fiberglass; 6 - "Wet Square" - a deck forming to board; 7 - foam insert; 8 - the transition of a three-layer covering of the board to a raisedbort; 9 - width of the gluing of the inner and outer layers of fiberglass of a three-layer deck; 10 - beep edges of the deck panel under 45 °; 11 - forming 100 mm wide; 12 - folding fiberglass boilers; 13 - "Wet Caller" with a 125 mm width shelf; 14 - epoxy putty with filler; 15 - Filler of the three-layer deck, bald; 16 - matrix; 17 - reinforcing layers of cheek
The quality of the outer surface of the future case is dependent on the quality of the surface of the matrix. Therefore, the surface of plywood needs to be carefully sharpened, to take it, and then paint the two-three layers of pentaphthalic paint. Before the last layer is well polished "in the wet" surface with a shallow waterproof skin. It should be remembered that any negligence in the preparation of the matrix will manifest itself with the corresponding defects on the finished body.
During the day before the outdoor clamping, the matrix surface is covered with a separating layer, which prevents the laminate to the matrix. As this layer, amateurs most often used Vaksu for floors, wax, vaseline, etc.
It is very important to provide good quality The decorative (painted) layer of the binder and the first layer of fiberglass. If the hull is built under a canopy, it is necessary to apply to their application in warm dry weather at a temperature of 20-25 ° C and humidity not more than 65%. The decorative layer is applied with a brush or a sprayer, its thickness should be in the range of 0.4-0.6 mm. If it is supposed to be painted in the future, it is recommended to apply a layer of unpainted resin anyway - it will give the surface of the plating glossyness, smooth the texture of the fiberglass, which manifests itself in fiberglass.
Best work on molding the corps lead two-three people. When building a boat 10-15 m in one day, it is recommended to apply no more than two layers of laminate to avoid deformation of the matrix or detaching fiberglass from it. Thin fiberglass is stacked as the first layer, which is thoroughly rolled up with rollers to the surface of the matrix. It is very important to exclude the appearance of air bubbles, which will create a lot of problems after removing the finished body from the matrix and in the further operation of the boat.
Laying two layers of glass materials per day is a kind of form of temperature control and provides high quality fiberglass. Working in this way, two people can shoot the hull of the 15-meter boat in a few days.
Cross section of the matrix on the lecture
1 - Rake firmware matrix; 2 - Laman Forstevnya; 3 - sheet material; 4 - roundings by radius (epoxy putty with aggregate).
The number of layers and grades of glass materials are usually indicated in the drawings. After the required number of layers will be laid throughout the surface of the case, the additional layers of the keel are placed in other places that are indicated in the drawings. It should be observed that the edges of the layers of glass materials overlap each other on the cheekbone, keel and the edges of the transom and the length, if short pieces are used. Every day, it is necessary to cut the surplus fiberglass on the upper edge of the side not later than a couple of hours after the end of the latch of the next layers, when the binder is gently selected. You should not leave this operation for another day, since the "oblast" will have to saw and, moreover, it creates inconvenience to form the subsequent layers.
If a three-layer (sandwich) case is built, then before you put the plates of the aggregate, it is necessary to put all the additional layers of the glass. The best method of gluing foam in such structures is the method of the "vacuum bag", in which a rubber-free cloth is placed on the surface of the foam, it is sealed over the edges and then air is pumped out with a vacuum pump.
Cross section of the matrix with a housing made in it with a longitudinal set
On the right - the hull of the sandwich design, on the left - with a single-layer trim.
Atmospheric pressure tightly crimps the "bag" and with it laminate. Single-layer casing is necessarily supported by a system of a set consisting of stringers, spline, floors and bulkheads. With a three-layer trim, it may be necessary to install stringers and frame splines, as well as ribs of stiffness in certain places. Stringer and the splits have usually have an identical design consisting of a foam aggregate of the required cross-section and stacking from fiberglass. Usually, the longitudinal stringers are first installed on the trim, then the splits are pasted between them (or interchangeable, as sometimes shipbuilders call intermittent connections) of the splint sets. Typically, the spangling goes from the top edge of the side to the lower stringer, which serves as a support of the Pioles. It is recommended to first put foam decorates of all beams of the set, and then bold them in one taking the strips of fiberglass. Of course, carefulness is required at all movements inside the case with the designers supplied, so as not to move them from the place. To accelerate the hardening of the binder, which is used for gluing the designers, you can use local heating with small electrical pumps.
To simplify the work, it is desirable to apply foam plates with a thickness equal to the height of the stringer's profile or the patch, cutting from it the maximum possible length on the ribbon saw (in its absence it is possible to make this work with manual hacksaw). The lateral edges of these bars are processed to the trapezoid cross section, if necessary, the base is adjusted by the bottom of the bottom. The cross section of the set details may be different depending on the role performed by the connection, and its location in the case. For example, Stringer - Piol's support should have a flat upper edge to which the plywood flooring is stacked, and the lateral edge is cut for a dense adjacent to the outer trim. Thus, this stringer may have a triangular cross section. The longitudinal beams of the engine foundation can have vertical walls on the inside and inclined, facing sides. Separate bars of dialing bonds are joined among themselves on the epoxy binder.
Matrix deck
1 - bars of the base 60x100; 2 - rails 20x51;
3 - Delicated decks; 4 - leaf coating of the matrix, plywood, organite; 5 - sticky tape - contour limiter of the deck panel formulated;
6 - Fastening with nails of sheet material around the perimeter of matrices.
Gillaring and fiberglass applied to glossing stringers and splits. In some cases, in order to obtain the effect of the brake of the brake, more durable and rigid during bending, the additional layers of the reinforcing material are placed on the upper edge of the stringer. The width of the formulations adjacent to the housing can be different - from 40 to 120 mm - usually these parts are indicated in the drawings of the housings.
Frame flora and semideraborks are used to reinforce the bottom and setting various equipment. Semi-welded can be made of waterproof plywood or preformed flat sheets of fiberglass, which are then customized on the casing intensities and are attached to the trim using "wet squares" - L-shaped formulations from several layers of fiberglass. The first should be installed on the bottom of the bottom stringers and, first of all, the foundation beams of the engine. This work must be done with all thoroughness, since it depends on the correct location of the engine in the case and the subsequent installation of the shaft line.
Cross section of the 8.5-meter boat
1 - seat molded by a special matrix; 2, 3 - rounding by a radius of 50 mm;
4 - coach-tank of fresh water; 5 - reinforced flora; 6 - braces of foundation for the engine;
7 - fuel tank; 8 - Engine
Transverse bulkheads are installed when all the stringers and the splits are pasted. Most often, they are performed from one or two layers of plywood, and the two-layer is most often used in case the width of the plywood sheet is not enough to overlap the entire width of the boat. The bulkhead is informed to the housing on both sides by "wet coals" with a shelf with a width of about 100 mm. To enhance the connection at the edge of the bulkhead along its perimeter, it is recommended to drill through holes with a diameter of 30-40 mm with a distance of about 150 mm between the centers, then remove the chamfer from the edges of the holes and then to form a form. In the edge of the bulkhead can be chosen over the thickness of fiberglass forming in order for the connection after the overlooking the bulkhead becomes invisible. Some builders fasten the bulkheads to the spangles molded to the body using bolts. In the open part, all these compounds and bolts are closed with decorative planks made of wood. The main bulkheads are recommended to do on their full height, including parts protruding over the deck. This will simplify the manufacture of logging and deck. In the span between the bulkheads, the reinforced flora is set, and in the engine compartment they put additional in order to continuously determine the longitudinal beams of the foundation under the engine and maintain fuel tanks that are most often installed in sides. By the way, you should warn on the fuel tank device built into the fiberglass housing. As a rule, such capacities are not hermetic, and the search and elimination of leaks during the operation of the boat is difficult to perform the task. It is best to make these tanks to contribute to the installation in a boat thoroughly test on the tightness of the bulk of those liquids for which they are intended.
Additional reinforcements are installed under the Helmport and steering, pumps and gallun. After that, the entire inner surface of the housing is recommended to be coated with a layer of binder, you can with a pigment.
At this stage, before making a deck and superstructure, it is advisable to install the most cumbersome equipment, the engine, fuel tanks, fresh water tanks, etc. Installation of pipelines and side mains, it is better to postpone on that period when the deck and add-in will be mounted . With a single and small construction of the boats, the deck and the superstructure are collected on the spot from the pre-made fiberglass sections - panels and individual details. There are two versions of the deck design - a single-layer or sandwich, with a slight aggregate between the outer and internal layers of fiberglass. The three-layer deck has a number of advantages, for example, it is good thermally isolating cabins from external environment due to the foam layer, it has high rigidity and strength when minimum Dress beams. Single-layer design is more suitable for large workers and fishing boats, where heavy and a complex system Sideboard recruitment, perceiving heavy loads from deck equipment.
Case section 12,5-meter boat
1 - matrix; 2, 6 - carlers; 3 - deck of fiberglass; 4 - removable plywood flooring over a motor compartment; 5 - Wooden BearS;
7 - shelf; 8 - wall cutting, from fiberglass, made in a flat matrix; 9 - Roof of cutting made in the deck matrix.
A rigid foam or end-seases of wood balsa are used as a light foil filler or end-seases of Balsa wood (in the domestic shipbuilding of balza does not apply, since it is an exotic material that is inaccessible even for shipping - approx. Ed.). On the drawings of the vessel, the thickness of the aggregate is indicated, as well as the system of sublocking set. Usually on boats up to 12 m long, there are quite some bims, and the decks of the courts of greater length are also supported by a pair of longitudinal connections - carlers.
Getting started to make a deck, it is necessary to cut out wide boards, the width length of the case, the template and counterclaims are killed bims. Using this template, manufactures the matrix for the panels of the deck panels and the roof of the cutting. The width of this matrix is \u200b\u200bequal to the maximum width of the boat casing along the deck, the length is 300-400 mm more than the longest deck panel. For boats up to 18 m long, the matrix is \u200b\u200babout 5 m long. The deck matrix is \u200b\u200bdone without the side of the side of the side of the side - the molded panel is recommended to be put in the housing during the time when the plastic has not yet turned completely and can be easily curved on the side of the board, if there is .
The matrix is \u200b\u200bmade in the same way as for the main body. First collect several transverse patterns, for the markup of which the counterclaries are used by Bims. Pekal is installed on the longitudinal bars (like crosspoints), they are securely fixed and reached first by the rails, then the leaf material that is put on the glue, fastening the nails only on the outer edges. The surface of the matrix is \u200b\u200bputty, squeak and stain.
Several temporary bims in those places that are supposed to be closed with deck in the boat housing. Using plywood strips, bonded with nails, with these places, remove the deck flooring patterns, moved on them outline of the line of the side. Usually such patterns are made only for one half of the DP panel, since the second half of the other is symmetric. Then the template is placed on the deck matrix and limit the contours of the future panel of the floor with the help of a sticky tape sticking to the surface of the matrix. Further, the designated layer (VAKSU, wax, etc.) and decorative (or not painted) layer of the binder are applied to the designated portion of the matrix.
So that the panel is not overclocked, no more than two layers of laminate are soldered daily. At the end of the gelatinization of the last layers, the fiberglass panel is removed from the matrix and transferred to the body until the plastic finally hardened. Here the panel must have sufficient support in the form of temporary bims installed in 0.8-1 m, and one - two longitudinal plates, in them embedded. It is important that the deck panel does not receive an unplanned deflection.
The sublift set provided for by the drawings of the boat is made similar to the stringers and the splits until the panel is still in the matrix. Then the inner surface of the panel is covered with a layer of painted or pure binder. At the same time, it should be avoided from entering this binder to the place, which will be informed to the main corpus or designs of the cutting. If the deck of the three-layer design, then the filler must be cut on the edges of the panel at an angle to form the carrier layers of fiberglass to sides. All deck panels are informing outside and from the inside, and the width of the forming is 75-100 mm from the connection site. Part of the layers of informing can be made narrower to avoid excessive thickening at the edges of the "wet salt". You should carefully remove all traces of the separation layer from the surface of fiberglass in places of forming, as well as from the rest of the panels before they are painted.
The side walls of the cuttings can most often be sealed on flat matrices and tables and are collected on the deck in a single design with the help of "wet squares".
In conclusion, it should be reminded about safety technician when working with fiberglass, components of which are far from harmless to health. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves, use protective masks when molding and especially - during Okarivania.
Using the technology described, the amateur shipbuilder can build a boat less than 50% of the cost of the finished vessel of the same size and quality built on shipyard.
G.V. Lipovetsky, "Boats and Yachts" №83.
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The article provides detailed description The process of manufacturing a plastic boat with the steps of work and materials used.
In the manufacture of the boat housing, the reinforcing filler is impregnated with a polymer composition by the method of contact molding. This approach is widely used to make overall products of any relief, based on polymer composite materials. This method is especially popular thanks to the budget and simplicity. technological process. Subject to the exact compliance with the technological stages and the accuracy of the work performed, to make a boat from fiberglass can not even be too experienced.
Speaking of raw materials, it is worth noting that as a reinforcing filler for a boat frame is used:
- roving fiberglass brands TR-07, TP-03, TR-056, which are needed as the basis of the case and quick thickening of the walls;
- structural fiberglass brands T-11 and T-13. They are used for local strengthening of individual sections.
Ashland TM polyester resin is indispensable for gluing reinforcing material. The gelkout of the same brand is used to create a decorative protective surface of the boat housing. Moisture-resistant plywood is used to enhance the frame.
If you lower the work on the creation of the drawing and the matrix, but to dwell directly on the production process, then it is possible to distinguish several fundamental stages of manufacturing boats from fiberglass.
- Preparation of the matrix. At this stage, the form is cleared of pollution and degreases. After that, an anti-adhesion composition is applied to its surface. This layer will not allow the resin to stick to the surface of the form, that is, conditionally will serve as a separator.
- Cutting fiberglass. For cutting fiberglass, which is a reinforcing filler, you can use special templates, which will significantly simplify work.
- Application of gelcoat. This decorative coating will allow not only to create a beautiful surface of the future vessel, but will provide long-term protection of the hull from scratches, scratching and burnout in the sun. Helcoat's application is a very responsible case, because of the flaws at this stage may suffer appearance Products. You can apply the composition with a soft varnishing brush, or using a special pulverizer. The main thing is that Gelcoat is uniformly, without drills and air bubbles. Then you need to give a gelet to dry. To the dry surface, fingers do not stick.
- Forming case. The cutting parts of the reinforcing filler are stacked on a gelkuty layer. A binder polymer resin is uniformly applied on fiberglass of roller. From above, the surface is resurrected by another layer of fiberglass. And so consistently applies the number of layers that needed. In this case, it is necessary to carefully remove bubbles of air from under fiberglass and evenly distribute the binder composition with the help of a quadrup roller. This is the main condition for creating a solid and reliable hull. After all, in places where unsopitable cavities will remain, voids are formed, which weaken the whole design.
- Creating a power frame. To enhance the vessel body along the shape, three wooden Bruck. For each of which two layers of fiberglass are applied. Then every 30cm they mount the swarthhums, also in two layers treated with fiberglass.
- Installing floor. The sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are attached to the ladded spangles using self-supersans. The plywood floor is consistently covered with two layers of reinforcing tissue, not forgetting to fasten them with a polymer resin. This procedure allows you to create a sealed double bottom of the vessel, which makes it practically unsinkable even when turning. After that, it is necessary to leave the product to the point that the binder resin will completely freeze.
- Build a boat. At the final stage, the boat is extracted from the form. Then you need to trim the allowances and thoroughly glue the surface of the boat. After that, the roof and a bar is mounted on the housing to protect the sides.
Obviously, in the presence of the necessary knowledge and simple tools, it is possible to simply make a reliable and beautiful boat.
Experience building boats From fiberglass with impregnation with its synthetic resins (for example, epoxy or polyester) showed that it is possible to make housings any, the most complex form, and the "shell" obtained at the same time has very high physicochemical properties. For a number of indicators such boatit turned out to be better metallic, not to mention wooden.
Disadvantages of wood As shipbuilding material is well known: it swells, increasing in weight, rotates, destroyed by the wanders-tree. With long-term storage, wooden hulls of ships are breathing. To a large extent, these disadvantages of wood can be eliminated if it is saked fiberglass. Feature such the buildingsit is that all materials (wood, metal fasteners and plywood or cardboard) are subsequently closed between the inner and outer layers of fiberglass and, being reliably connected to these layers, are organically included in the structure of the case. Besides protective properties, fiberglass increases the strength of the housing, simplifies the spring repair of the vessel.
For protective pasting of the vessel case, the fabrics of grades T 1 or T 2 or fiberglass of rare interlocks are the so-called "grid" of SE (SSTE-6 or SSTE-9). Due to low density, they are easily impregnated with resin and thanks to their elasticity, the body is fitted well. The fiberglass of satin weaving of the ASTT brand (b) with 2 and hardened fiberglass brands of TZ-07 and TZHS-06-0 are also suitable. Fiberglass Aviation stamps A and speakers are recommended to be used only for pasting housings from light alloys.
Electrical insulating fabrics of LSM LSM, LSMI, LSE, LSB, LSK produce already impregnated with synthetic resins, which are almost impossible to clean them. The presence of resin limits the selection of glue (only perchlorvinyl adhesive can be used) and complicates the application of paintwork coatings. For this reason, electrical insulating tissues are applied only in the absence of any other tissues.
Wooden housings can be covered with epoxy compounds and polyester resins that are cheaper than epoxy. For the manufacture of fiberglass use unsaturated polyester resins: Mon-1, Mon-2, Mon-3, Mon-1c, PN-3C, 911-MS, NPS-609-21, NPS-609-22, NPS-609-22M and Others curable at t \u003d 18-25 ° C. Styrene-in-resin in the manufacture of fiberglass is released, having a harmful effect on the human body. The least toxic NPS-609-21 and NPS-609-22m and NPS-609-22 m and NPS-609-22 m, so they are best used in amateur shipbuilding. Binding compositions on the basis of unsaturated polyester resin. Cold curing are given in table. 3.
Table 3. Compositions of binding cold curing based on unsaturated polyester resins
|
Mark polyester resin |
Initiator and accelerator |
The number of weight parts by 100 weights of the resin |
|
Isopropylbenzene hydraulic (hyperiz) |
||
|
Naphthenate cobalt (10% solution in strirling) |
||
|
Nafthenate Cobalt |
||
|
Nafthenate Cobalt |
||
|
Nafthenate Cobalt |
||
|
Nafthenate Cobalt |
||
|
Nafthenate Cobalt |
||
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Benzol peroxide |
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Dimethylaniline |
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Nafthenate Cobalt |
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T-1 brand saucer |
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Polyetrarillalate 7-70 |
Camping is performed at a temperature not lower than +18 ° C and relative air humidity not higher than 65%. As an initiator that provides a resin transition from liquid into a solid state, use isopropyl benzene hydraulic (hyperiz). At room temperature, the resin with the hyperiz entered in it is polymerized for several days. Additional administration of nofttenate cobalt accelerates the process, since it activates the effect of hyperiza, and the curing of the resin occurs within a few hours.
Preparation of wooden housing
Before pasting wooden housing It is necessary to round all sharp edges and angles on which fiberglass due to a sharp fracture of the threads, does not rest. It is necessary to drown fasteners into the trim and sharpen the deepening over it, remove the existing leaks. Uneven, rough surface should be rolled. Splits and jackets to cut through a chisel or sharp knife. The trim is treated with shallow skin and rasp. Then to impregnate with hot oil or ethinole varnishes: in this case, wood is less to absorb water. Olife must dry well: it is better to withstand the body for several days.
In 2-3 hours before the pasting, the housing is wiped with White spirit (or gasoline) to remove dust and degreasing. It should be remembered that even the slightest traces of fat worsen adhesion.
Preparation and cutting fiberglass
In the manufacture fiberglass To reduce dust formation is wetted by special oil, oil emulsion or paraffin solution. To provide best impregnation Tissue with binding when the case is covered, this grinder must be removed. Paraffin flavor removes gasoline. Other types of grommetors remove White spirit or acetone, in compliance with all safety precautions and safety regulations. Washed tissue should be dried for 2-4 hours, better on draft.
When starting fabric, it is necessary to strive to cut off pieces equal to the length corps. It is desirable that the strips stacked along the keel and waterline do not have junctions: on the edge of the joint when the obstacle is hitting the obstacle, the material may wrap up and detachable at a considerable distance; The whole cloth in this case will break through. When laying fabrics, it is necessary to give an allowance for those edges that will fall in Vnakroy.
To obtain the desired length, you can sew the pieces of fabric, trying to make the seams not accounted for the most complete, milking part of the case. When crossing the edge of the fabric, the bending should not be edged, the threads can be used linen, impregnated with olifa, or glass, rolled out of the edge of the cloth. Sewing panels along the longitudinal edges is not recommended to avoid formation of folds and distortions due to uneven thread tension in each tissue band. When working with fiberglass, you need to wear safety glasses so that fiberglass particles do not fall into the eyes, and on the face - a gauze bandage or a respirator to protect the respiratory organs. The room where the work is made, it is necessary to constantly ventilate, and better if the temperature allows operating outdoors.
Preparation of binding
Binders should be prepared in an amount that can be spent in 1.5-2 hours of operation. Prepare binder B. enameled dishes. It is impossible to use copper, brass or gummed dishes, since these materials may adversely affect its curing.
The components of the binder are mixed in a specific sequence. If the vertical board or the bottom of the boat standing down the boat down, then a few hours before the start of the pasting in the resin, the prepared dose of thixotropic filler was injected with a thorough stirring - White Saw MO-333 or A - 5-7% of the weight of the resin or Aerosyl - 1-1.5%. The filler increases the viscosity of the resin, prevents the links of the binder. After 2 hours, the resin with the entered filler is still thoroughly mixed. Before the start of pasting required amount Resins and separate accelerator and initiator. For polyester resins, the PN brands first introduce an accelerator and only after good (wage 10-15 minutes) of mixing - hyperiz. The composition is well mixed again.
Attention!The accelerator and initiator should not be connected directly, since the explosion may occur. Using epoxy resin. ED-5 and ED-6 in them add dibutyl phthalate - 15 weight. per 100 weight. resin with which it can be stored for a long time. The accelerator serves as polyethylenepolyamine (10 wt.h.), which is administered immediately before the pasting of the case. When mixing the binder with polyethylene polyamine, heat is highlighted, as a result of which the mixture can quickly operate. Therefore, the accelerator is recommended to introduce parts, mixing well. If the pasting is carried out at temperatures below + 18 ° C, the binder can be introduced as a diemethylaniline in an amount of 0.025-0.1% of the weight of the resin. It sharply speeds up the gelatinization of the resin. It is necessary to work in rubber gloves. After the end of the pasting, wash the face with hot water with soap and lubricate with nutrient cream.
Order of pasting housing
Before work, you need to prepare tools: a sharp knife, tailor scissors for cutting fabrics, end brushes, spatulas, roller for tissue tissue and enameled dishes. The treated surface of the outer sheathing is grounded with a thin layer of a binder prepared without a thixotroy filler. The size of the site is determined so that it can be saved no more than a hour and a half.
After 30 minutes, another layer of the binder is applied (if necessary - styxotropic filler), and immediately the first layer of fiberglass is stacked right on it, which is carefully smoothed, is confrontated by eating brushes from the middle of the panel to the edges until the air bubbles are completely removed and the uniform impregnation is completely removed. Similarly, subsequent layers are stacked until the protective layer of the required thickness is obtained. It can be estimated that four layers of fiberglass form protective covering 1-1.5 mm thick. Thick fiberglass creates sufficient protection of the housing in 1-2 layers.
Body pasting usually lead from top to bottom, i.e., from the side to the keel. The first layer must overlap by 50-70 mm zilly bar, goes on the bottom, and the same value - deck. The subsequent layers must fall so that it is bold along the edges of the fabric to be at least 20-30 mm. The most vulnerable places of the housing, such as a cheekbone, connecting the side of the deck, it is advisable to protect the additional layer of fiberglass, placing the band with a width of 50-100 mm on the main layer.
With the bottom of the bottom overlap the bottom of the onboard pasting. Similarly, they come at the pasting of the deck, transnta and the belt. The lower edges of the bottom panels by 20-30 mm are displayed on the outer bar keel (if it is), but it is usually not completely covered. The edges of the fabric on a wooden keel and on the Forstevna it is best to close the rack with a metal lining. The pasting must be carried out continuously until the protective layer of the thickness of the desired thickness is obtained, otherwise the binder will clarify and to continue work the surface will have to be cleaned. In the event that you have to take the bottom in the ceiling position, the fiberglass is pre-impregnated by the binding on the tables. After the impregnation of the panels are wound on round rods with a diameter of about 70 mm, and no later than after 30-40 minutes they are unpacked and stacked on the body, punching the formed bubbles with end brushes and rolling the tissue with rollers. From the inside the case is usually not covered; Enough trim and set to cover the binder layer. For bonding backed plywood, the epoxy resins binder should be used, since polyester binders in this case do not provide sufficiently durable clutch.
While the glue is still not dry, perform the "wet putty". Orthodox (risks, glue influx) smooth, wetting solvent. It is often necessary to apply putty and after the fiberglass will clarify. For putty, use the same glue to whip cloth, with the addition of filler - quartz sand or Marshallite (chalk and cement is not applied). The spacure surface is aligned and immediately wipe the tampon moistened in the solvent. After complete drying, the putty can begin to prepare the body under the color - to eliminate the gloss glass skurt. The paint sticks to the matte surface, especially enamel.
In the process of operation of vessels fiberglass, protective layer may be damaged. Repair of damaged areas is also carried out as the application of the layer fiberglasson the body, only more careful surface preparation is required, since it may be oil, dirt or wood itself will be wet.
Since the most ancient times, our ancestors have been fishing. They caught fish wooden edge standing knee-deep in the water. Since then, a lot has changed, methods of fishing, guns, places changed. Now, all who can afford it, believe that fishing must be sent on the boat, they say, they will catch the fish more. Partly, such a decision is justified, because many fish are found at a depth, and who would not want to swim away from the shore alone with the fishing rod?
So, then we consider the method of building a boat from fiberglass. Why precisely from it, and not from wood, or rubber - yes, because it is the cheapest and relatively simple way to build a boat with your own hands. In addition, the fiberglass boat will be extremely reliable and durable. Properly glued fiber makes a boat completely waterproof, without cracks and holes. Fiberglass does not rot, it is not covered with mold and does not eat it, which is very important during garage storage.
Let's start building a boat from fiberglass with your own hands with the search for drawings. There are two options to get it. If you have a gift engineer, you can try to make a drawing in AutoCAD, well, and whether God has awarded you with other talents, use ready-made drawings. They can be found on the Internet, or order on specialized sites.
As soon as you have a drawing in your hands, you can proceed to the manufacture of the matrix. No, not the one in which the famous Kiana Reeves starred. In order to make the matrix, you can first make a blank, and you can and mold for the matrix. We will look at the second option, i.e. To begin with, make a mold.
To do this, we build a framework, and install the splintings on it. Then the swarthhums are hunted plywood. Having trimmed plywood plywood, do it as fashionable carefully so that there is no irregularities anywhere, because As a result, the quality of the future boat will depend on this.
The edges of the boat should be made as hard as possible plywood should be a minimum thickness of 1.2 cm, and for sides, use a double layer of plywood. Edges need to align and clean emery paperso that the boat is symmetrical. After the mold assembly is completed, align it with a putty, we will need a polyester putty.
This is perhaps one of the tall and long stages - putty, because As a result, to level the boards will have long and carefully. The slightest deviation and boat will be either uneven or unstable. Therefore, all errors are recommended to fix at this stage, especially since it will be easy to detect them, just make symmetrical marking. When you study sweeping putty, put on glasses and a respirator flying small particles Dust can cause serious harm to your health.
Well, here, alone, the side is aligned, the mold is cleaned, you can lay fiberglass. It starts everything like this, lubricate the mold 4 layers of wax. This is necessary in order to then get a boat from the shape whole and unharmed. Do not neglect this operation, because As practice shows, the sake of time saving is often trying to neglect the applying wax, and then you have to look for time. To remake everything as needed. After applying the wax, you need to apply gelkout, it will be an outer layer of the boat. It is applied gelcoat only on dried wax.
Preparatory work Completed, it is possible to stack fiberglass. In principle, this will be the most important and responsible part of the work, it was to her all previous steps were reduced.
But there is nothing supernatural in this, everything that will need is a fiberglass, which is applied with a thin layer on the matrix, soaked with a mixture. After above, it is located up to 5 layers of fiberglass on the same scheme.
More detailed instructionsAlas, not provided, it all depends on what kind of fiberglass you buy. When you put fiberglass, carefully ensure that anywhere else has the slightest air bubble. For additional beauty, last layer You can do with the help of a special "top" fiberglass. When you are purchased by materials, ask about it from the seller. Everything, after complete drying, your fiberglass boat is fully ready. You can put out and paint!
An additionally in the same way to the boat can be installed seats from fiberglass, drawers, fasteners for fun and so on. Fiberglass - universal material, and with due skills to work with it, you can make anything. But again, you should not overload the boat with unnecessary things, remember that this is just a boat, and not a cargo tanker and not a pleasure yacht.
If all the steps were fulfilled correctly, there should be no problems in any way. The only thing I urge you is attentive and patient, do not "ababy how", all the same, the boat will go to the water, and the water of errors and laziness does not forgive.
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One of the common materials for the construction of the boat with their own hands was the fiberglass. With this raw material, you can independently construct the boat quite large sizes: from 7.5 to 18 m in length.
General
One of the most common models of boats from such a material as fiberglass was the Waverunner-285 boat. It is considered a full-fledged glissing ship, which is quite suitable for walking in the sea or tourism. The ship, which is characterized by the fact that he has an increased surface board, as well as a rather large width, is also convenient because it is possible to place a comfortable interior with a surrounding toilet and a galley. In the stern part of the boat, you can make a double cabin, the location of which will be strictly under the cockpit. The aggregate management department will be placed on a motor compartment, and it will also be protected from wind and aqueous spray with inclined glass.
Boat power
When equipped with a boat, you need to consider what engine will be installed on it later. Specifically, this model is designed to install or one or two motors. However, it is important here to take into account that the total capacity for the normal functioning of the object should be in the range from 250 to 500 liters. from. They should also have a direct reverse gear, which will allow to develop a speed of 15-30 nodes, which is in km / h range from 28 to 56. In addition, the vessel may also have propulsive complexes or additional suspended motors.
It is worth noting that the construction of a boat does with their own hands saves from 50 to 75% of the material resources from the amount that would be spent if the unit would have been purchased at the shipyard, and not built on his own. It is also worth noting that the reduced technology of building a small ship is not the last word in shipbuilding. This is only a proven practice, a well-established method, which will allow properly construct an acceptable boat from fiberglass.
Beginning of work
The beginning of the construction of a small vessel from fiberglass is no different from construction from any other material. The first step is to be broken down on the plywood shield or on a sheet of cardboard theoretical spangouts, as well as the obligations of the belt. The breakdown should be carried out on the full amount of these parts.
It is also important to note that the shield or plas on which the breakdown is underway must have a width corresponding to the width of the boat, plus 300 mm. The height of this object should be higher than the estimated height of the housing by 400 mm. Experts recommend first to create drawings of boats on which all the necessary parts will be marked with the size of the sizes. This is done in order not to make a mistake in the manufacturing process.
One more important detail - The upper ends of all the splits must be extended to that height, which is depicted as a horizontal line, plaza. It is the perpendicular line of DP and is called Shergel Line.
Assembly of lecture
During the work on the placement markup, the lecturer is very important to take into account such factors as the thickness of the rivers and the thickness sheet metalwhich will be used as a casing of the inner surface of the matrix. In other words, when drawing up a boat drawing and subsequent assembly, it is necessary to postpone the theoretical line of each of the splints inside that the distance that the thickness of the rivers and sheet metal in the amount will correspond. It is this version of the markup should be used when cutting with globes and their further assembly.
Separate parts of transverse patterns, it is necessary to combine with the help of materials such as lining and books made from plywood pieces from 8 to 10 mm thick. Such an indicator is suitable for the boat, the length of which will be in the region of 10 m. The lining is best glued to the patterns, and then additionally fasten them with screws or nail to nails.
How to make a boat: trim and matrix
Next, before collecting the available patterns in the matrix, it is necessary to take care of the creation of the outdoor construction of the structure. In order to create the most comfortable conditions When working with the outer cover of the boat, it is necessary to provide a detail that provides the slope of the matrix on both board of the ship.
If you do everything right, then the possibility of working, standing on the floor next to the billets. The matrix itself, in any case, should have a very durable and rigid design. This is necessary so that when the unit is built, the shape of its hull is distorted.
How to make a boat with a solid matrix? Large structures are collected from longitudinal beams that will be a horizontal base of the boat. Inside the resulting frame, you need to install a packer, which will make it easier to work on the casing. After the longitudinal bars were installed, which are the basis of the matrix, they are placed on them the future position of all patterns, and the steel wire is stretched along the beams, which will be a string, denoting DP of the ship.
Installation of lecture
Start the process of installing blanks is recommended from the Middle Spangout. Before reliably fasten this element, it is very important to make sure that the leases stands strictly vertically and perpendicular to the DP. It is attached to the bases that are the basis. After all the other blanks were mounted, a rack is installed in the TRANT DP, and all the elements were separated by the disconsection to avoid any movement, it is possible to proceed to this step as the casing of the inner surface of the matrix with the help of longitudinal plates.
To perform this problem, the material is most often used with a thickness of 12 to 15 mm and a width of 50 mm. For the equipment of the bottom of the boat, it is better to use rail with the same thickness, but more wide - up to 100 mm.
Aluminum water boat
The low cost of the starting materials, as well as turning machines led to the fact that many owners sewed to what they independently make certain parts and metal elements. It is believed that the production of an aluminum boat is one of the most complex tasks, which is practically impossible, and in the factory they are created without difficulty, as they have special tools for this. However, this is not the case.
The most difficult thing in the manufacture of this type of boat independently is the production of its metal patterns. Under this term understand the markup of how it is necessary to cut the desired parts from aluminum.
In the manufacture of such an aggregate of metal, the entire process is reduced to assembling a peculiar constructor. This is relevant if the workpieces are not cut on your own, as it is still necessary to need a large skill of work and high-precision equipment, and a computerized model of the boat is purchased. Yes, the cost of such a model will also be quite high, but if you compare with the purchase of a ready-made vessel, there will be significant savings.
Speed \u200b\u200bsmall vessels
Another version of the vessel, which can be made independently is a high-speed boat. A rather important part in the construction of a personal type of unit is a choice of engine and its location. You can place this item in the ship's cockpit, and the part that will perform, you can close the hood.
This definition of the place was not chosen by chance. It will allow you to expand the circle of devices suitable for installation. You can use engines from such cars as "Zhiguli" or "Volga". In addition to these models, it is quite realistic to install a diesel engine from the tractor. However, this is possible only if an additional hot air is provided. To do this, you can use a fake chimney.
Air-cooled engines can also be installed. Since the high-speed boat should have good stability with rapid movement on water, it is recommended to place this item closer to the center of the severity of the entire vessel. Big weight The engine will give greater stability of the entire design.
