If you adhere to proper nutrition, then avocados are probably in ...
Epoxy resin. Lessons, trials, mistakes. Part 1.
In a pancake, I would not have guessed in life))))!
Live and learn.
I also used for "amba" and "huaba" coal dust from the usual barbecue. with an elephant is a little more difficult. resin already with yellowness. With ordinary paints or with concrete where white is needed, titanium white can be used on their basis to try to knead?
I prepared for this process for a long time, as I understood that it would be a big job. As a result, everything took more than a month. But now I have a clear experience.
Before taking on the practical part, I read a lot of different texts with reviews and experience of the craftswomen. Therefore, please heed the safety tips, because no one wants to lose their eyesight.
Epoxy resin for decorative works- this is modern material, allowing you to make many discoveries and accomplishments. But on it enough one-sided and limited information. Therefore, when I decided to create a report on technical operation and exploring possibilities, I really missed a single source where you can find maximum amount answers. I hope now I will be able to do something that will create a more complete picture of the possibilities and technical features in working with epoxy.
Introduction
despite the fact that in the phrase "epoxy" there is a word _resin_ associated with a natural material, in fact it is actually very chemical product. In order not to go into details and chemistry lessons, I will simply explain some of the safety features.
Since "epoxy" is used in both construction and finishing work, I propose to share which of the resins for which work. Modern epoxy resin for decorative work from trusted manufacturers does not harm your health (subject to safety precautions), while technical resin has a pronounced chemical aroma, fumes irritate mucous tissues and, unfortunately, cases of visual impairment and other health complications after work with epoxy resin for technical purposes. Therefore, do not skimp on the material for creativity and do not ignore the contents of your resin package and you will be fine.
Chapter 1.
We study the content.
The material for my experiments was kindly provided by the store-
hobby center "Creative Hands" And I will experiment with this product:
Epoxy Crystal Resin. Two-component.
PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES:
- Avoid contact with the skin of the hands and mucous membranes. In case of contact, remove the resin with a napkin or cloth, rinse the place of contact.
- Do not use on items that come into contact with food.
- Virtually odorless, does not irritate the eyes and mucous membranes of the nose, but how general recommendation However, it is best to work in a well-ventilated area.
Package content:
Two bottles: the resin itself and a fixative to it.
- two measuring cups
- two wooden sticks for mixing elements
- plastic gloves for safe work.
Well, in fact, you see that the manufacturer has taken care of our health and safety from the very beginning.
Description of features and applications:
Allows you to achieve the effect of a glass surface, transparent and durable. Used to create jewelry, decoration various surfaces. The recommended maximum allowable layer is 5 cm. A thin layer creates the effect of a glossy surface on the product. Used on plastic, glass, faience, metal, silicone, painted wood. Resistant to light and water. It can also be used as glue, after drying it proved to be one of the strongest adhesive substances, much stronger than any super-glues and just glues; firmly glues metal parts, porcelain, stone.
Hardening time: surface -12 hours. full - 24 hours. During curing, air must be allowed to enter the coated article (i.e., curing does not occur in a tightly closed space).
Store the components in closed vials for 6 months after opening, at a temperature of 15°C - 25°C. Mixed components are no longer subject to storage. Protect from exposure to low temperatures. To clean the decorated surface, you can use ordinary soap and water.
Chapter 2
Let's get to work.
Manufacturer's instructions:
1. Dry and clean dishes place 1 dose of Cristal B fixer, then 2 doses of Cristal A epoxy.
2. Mix well throughout the container (incomplete mixing does not guarantee curing, mixing too fast may cause air bubbles).
3. Pour into a mold or onto a surface, depending on the application.
4. Leave to dry for 24 hours. Fixing occurs gradually and depends on the ambient temperature.
I used a clean plastic cup, in which, as recommended by the manufacturer, I added (measured with measuring cups included in the package) 1 serving of fixer (bottle "B") and 2 servings of epoxy (bottle "A"). For information, after you have finished the work, the tools (mixing stick, measuring cups, as well as the dishes in which you mixed it all) can be wiped with a dry cloth, after which your tools can be reused. But only of course we will no longer use them for eating or cooking.
Why is it important to keep proportions right?
In case of violation of proportions, our resin simply will not harden. It may remain sticky to the touch or cloudy. Cracks and other things may appear on the surface. Therefore, if you are afraid that the dosage with measuring cups may let you down, you can use plastic disposable syringes for greater accuracy.
As soon as I started mixing the resin components, my contents looked a little unsettling:
A liquid has a denser or more viscous substance than plain water, therefore, when mixing (let it be long, slow and tedious), you really should not rush. I sat, watching TV, making smooth stirring movements with a stick inside the dish with the mixture. Sometimes, with careless movement, air bubbles appeared in the liquid, but I squeezed them out with the same stick and continued mixing.
After 15 minutes of gentle stirring, my mixture had already reached the diffusion stage I needed:
At this point in my work, my mixture is too thin for my goals, so I put the cup aside and wait about 40 minutes - 1 hour. During this time, the mixture becomes more viscous, similar to jelly of medium density.
Well, then I'll get to work.
Chapter 3
Surface application. Filling out forms.
Application / filling option No. 1. Using molds to fill.
In shops with goods for hobbies and needlework, you can find special silicone molds for pouring epoxy resin. For example like these:
They are good because they are made of a plastic material that makes it easier to take out the frozen form, and the material itself does not react with epoxy and does not stick together.
There is also the experience of other craftsmen that you can process the shape you need with various preparations that will not allow the resin to stick together with your shape. For example - vaseline, but after it the surface becomes cloudy and bumps from your "spreading" may remain. Or use the contents of colorless gel candles. They also protect against sticking and contribute to the further unhindered removal of your workpiece from the mold.
I didn’t have such “aggregates”, so I experimented.
To begin with, I tried the silicone molds I had available for working with plastic.
It looks like this:
Since I am not sure that this form is suitable for epoxy, I fill a small area with the finished liquid mass at my own peril and risk.
Later I will find out that this experiment was successful. But more on that later.
In the meantime, I leave the mold with resin and proceed to the next stage of the experiment.
Application / filling option No. 2. Filling in the given forms.
Attention. Forms to fill out polymer clay I prepared in advance, i.e. before mixing the epoxy resin components.
I really like glass because it retains its transparency and purity, while at the same time I can work with color filling. And when I was making a plan for myself to experiment with epoxy resin, I decided to make an imitation of stained glass figures.
To do this, I climbed into the Internet and began to google suitable pictures for myself.
Having found what I need, I print them out and use them as a stencil, placing them under glass. Now I'm starting to work with polymer clay. I squeeze out the plastic cords from the extruder syringe (if you don’t have one, roll out the cords with your hands, you can directly on the glass) and lay out the cord (slightly pressing down on my glass surface) along the lines of my stencil.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
It is very important that the forms laid out by me are evenly and tightly pressed against the glass, because. in a subsequent experiment, we will need their even base. But you just can't smudge them, because we also need some even height of the sides of our forms.
After the work on laying out the forms is completed, I send everything to bake right on the glass. The temperature for baking polymer clay is 110-130 degrees. Baking time 20-25 minutes.
After the molds are baked and cooled down (we observe safety precautions, don’t grab onto something hot and wait for it to cool completely), our polymer clay is very easy to remove from smooth surface glass.
Our blanks:
1.
2.
3.
Now after all this big preparatory phase Let's start filling :)
Thanks to Maria Glukhova for her lesson.
To do this, I stretch on the surface (my old glass, on which I sculpted polymer clay molds) the usual wide adhesive tape sticky side up and start laying out my forms to fill.
Can be used for filling different forms. For example (you can see it in the top picture) I used a round flat metal base with wood inside. I pressed it against our tapered surface, inserted metal flowers there.
I also use other suitable forms. For example, for more than 2 years I have had furniture frames hanging around idle, which I did not know where to attach. Looks like they have a use now :)
Filling for these frames can be anything. I took small charms with a flower, removed the eye for fastening with pliers and put them in the frames.
1.
2.
I do the filling with the same mixing stick. My epoxy resin, which has settled for about an hour, is already quite thick, so I scoop up the amount I need with a stick and apply it.
"Epoxy does not contain solvents, so it does not shrink when cured. In addition, it is viscous, so if you pour it "with a slide", it will leak to the edge and stop there. But it is important not to overdo it here."
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Well, now I will tell you about my mistakes during the experiment.
Well, firstly, we must fill the fill on a horizontal surface. It should not have any slopes and irregularities, otherwise after we apply our liquid, it will flow over the edge.
Secondly, my mistake, which occurred when applying adhesive tape to the surface. I didn't check the duct tape. Where the joints were weakly glued, the epoxy leaked out under the tape.
Thirdly, using the forms glued to the surface of the adhesive tape, I did not control or simply accidentally missed the snug fit and gluing of the form.
This is what my mistakes look like:
1.
2.
I left everything as it is. It's too late to correct the situation at this stage. I will return to this later.
I also continued to experiment.
On the tape surface, I drew a shape with a stained glass outline.
Then I filled it with epoxy. Looking ahead, I’ll say that this experiment was a success, outwardly, the bead after solidification looks the same as in the photo just filled in. But since I gave it a stupid and sloppy look from the very beginning, it does not represent a great aesthetic value. So I won't go back to her. Just know that this option is also quite possible.
I continue to experiment.
I was told that epoxy resin can be dyed stained glass paints. I'm doing an experiment.
I dip the tip of the toothpick into the paint, and then I color my liquid.
1.
2.
3.
Application / filling option No. 3. surface coating.
Epoxy resin is very popular as a coating on a product. It creates extra thickness and gloss.
For the experiment, I took one of the ready-made beads made of polymer clay. Made a drawing. After you've dripped your epoxy, you can help it spread over the surface using a toothpick. Just stretch it by moving the tip, the resin will obediently "run" where you need it.
After curing, my bead looked the same as after application - the surface of the bead is covered with a lens.
I also checked this theory, so I will not return to this bead anymore, everything seems to be clear with it.
More interesting, it seems to me, will be the next experiment. I had a theory in my head that I wanted to test.
For this we need the so-called. "skeletonized leaves" (these are real leaves, from which the "pulp" is removed, and the skeleton of the leaf is dried and tinted with paints. They are sold in shops with goods for hobbies and needlework). I cut out smaller leaves from them, the size I need. Then I cover them with nail polish (so that the porous surface of the sheet does not conflict with the epoxy and do not form unnecessary air bubbles) and leave to dry.
1.
After the varnish on the leaves is completely dry, I glue them to my tapered surface. And then I put epoxy on them. Next - I leave to harden along with all my blanks.
Application / filling option No. 4. Filling of vessels.
I had small glass bottles left after the glitters. Very pretty little cutesies. Also, I messed up a little. home flower. Well, as you can already guess, filled it all with epoxy.
I left this jar to harden in a slightly tilted state. We will see what happened later.
Well, now I would like to additionally say about this method of filling natural materials. Over time, they fade and lose their color. And it doesn't matter if you poured epoxy resin on a "live" object or already dried one.
The first major theoretical part of the experiments is over. Now I'm waiting for the epoxy to cure.
To be continued.
» What is EPOXYCON, or how to color epoxy
EPOXY RESIN. MIX, COLOR, FILL
SPECIAL FOR website
Hi all! My name is Yulianna Volkova, I am a jewelry designer and maker.
In this master class, I want to tell you what an amazing material it is - epoxy resin, and how many different styles and shapes of jewelry you can make from it! But first, we'll look at what this outlandish substance is and how to manage it.
Firstly, when working with epoxy, I recommend that you follow some safety measures:
1. Work in a well ventilated area
2. Wear gloves
3. Use for mixing components only disposable tableware to be thrown away after use.
4. If you intend to often work with epoxy, you should use a respirator.
Once cured, epoxy is completely non-toxic, unless eaten, of course.
Epoxy resin itself consists of two components that must be mixed in strict proportions indicated on the package. Mixing instructions are always included, follow them carefully.
For mixing, I use a disposable transparent cup, a disposable coffee spoon (you can use wooden stick from ice cream) and a couple of syringes of various sizes. Each syringe should only be used for the same component. I do not throw them away, but store them in a zip bag in a box along with epoxy.
Now let's get down to the fun part - the process of creating the jewelry itself!
INGREDIENTS
We will need the following materials:
Pictures suitable in size for our blanks and printed on a laser printer or on professional photo paper (this is important, I'll explain why later).
STEP 1
First, mix component A and B in the proportions indicated on the package, typing into each syringe right amount component A and B. I mixed in double volume. That is, not 4:1, but 8:2.
STEP 2
It is better not to knead too large portions at once, otherwise it will be difficult to bring it to a homogeneous state, and it is important for us that both components mix very well with each other.
To do this, I heat some water (up to about 70 degrees), do not boil!
Then I take a deep dish and pour this water into it. There, very carefully, I immerse a glass with already mixed components and heat the epoxy in this water bath for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally. As a result of this procedure, bubbles come out that we do not need in the process of work, and the mass becomes more homogeneous. Be careful not to get water into the epoxy cup, otherwise the mixture can be thrown away - it will lose its transparency!
STEP 3
Then I pour the resulting amount of the mixture into three cups (a transparent mixture should remain, and we will add epoxycone to the other two cups. For the master class, I chose Epoxycon yellow and blue sparkling shimmering.
STEP 4
To give the necessary color to component A of the adhesive compound, a concentrate of organic dyes (fluorescent or pearlescent pigments) EPOXICON is added so that the ratio of the total mass of the colored mixture to the mass of component B remains 80:20.
STEP 5
Pearlescent dye must be mixed before adding to the bulk. You can do this with a knitting needle or a wooden stick.
Now the cups with epoxy must be set aside for 2-3 hours. I also set it to 5 (at a temperature of 24-25 degrees). Then the liquid becomes more viscous and a high lens can be formed from it.
ADVICE: For pouring rings, earrings and pendants, do not use epoxy immediately after dilution - it is still too liquid! We need a slightly convex coating, so we wait until it thickens to a state of viscous honey. If you pour epoxy into a silicone mold, you can safely use it right away.
STEP 6
While our epoxy resin acquires the desired consistency, we will prepare the molds for pouring, cut out the pictures and - most importantly - make a retainer for rings and earrings.
Everything is clear with the pictures: it is better to print them on a laser printer, because the ink lays down in a dense layer on the paper, and does not penetrate into the fibers of the paper, like ink in inkjet printer. Because we will need to cover the picture acrylic varnish, this is a prerequisite. After all, epoxy applied to an unprotected picture will leave on it greasy spot. When protected with varnish, a dense film is formed. It is better to apply varnish in 2-3 layers and dry properly.
We cut the picture in shape, then paste it into the base (you can use PVA glue, you can use the same varnish), then varnish it. This is the best algorithm to follow. We also carefully coat the junction of the picture and the base. For this I use a soft brush.
STEP 7
Now let's make a holder for rings and earrings. It is needed so that our molds are well fixed. We take a piece of foam, it should be even on all faces. With a clerical knife, we cut out rectangular grooves into which our ring-earrings will subsequently be fixed.
These are the rings I got after about 2 days. This is how long it takes for the resin to cure. Will have to be patient!
But such earrings, similar to lollipops, turned out when poured into molds.
And some more inspiration
You can experiment with fillers, shapes and use of ready-made jewelry items. Various dry glitters, potal, colored foil, which is sold in nail art stores, dry pigments, dried blades of grass, flowers, leaves, can be added to the resin, and even tinted with old unnecessary eye shadow, pouring them a little into the finished mixture.
Epoxy resin, which usually does not have its own color, in some cases needs to be tinted, and it’s not even just about casting decorative items. In these cases, special colors are used.
A variety of dyes can be used to color epoxy resin. It is only important to make sure that they do not react with the resin and do not change color when interacting with them. You can use dyes in the form of a powder or emulsion, but the paints on water based will not mix with epoxy. Various unexpected effects, achieved by using such "handicraft" dyes, are actively used in the manufacture of decorative castings. However, when uniform coloring of epoxy resin is required, it is most reliable to use special colors. Their use ensures staining over the entire thickness, while the physical and mechanical characteristics of the product do not change or change slightly.
Specialized epoxy colors are supplied as pastes. Such pastes are colored viscous mass. It has a color corresponding to the color of the pigment, the shade of which does not change when working with epoxy. The paste contains microscopic particles of pigment dispersed in some kind of binder that is mixed with epoxy resin. Dyes can be very diverse and you can always find the right one or mix several available to get the desired shade. At a concentration of less than 0.5%, the color will be light and transparent. When adding large quantities dye, the color becomes more saturated. As a rule, the content of tinting pastes does not exceed 6% of the volume of the mixture. In order to accurately assess the appearance of the product, it is better to prepare the solution in a transparent container, so that you can see the transparency of a layer of the same thickness as the thickness of the planned casting.
The resin is colored before the hardener is added to the mixture. An exception can be made for special decorative resins - they have a long "life" after adding a hardener, so you can tint an already prepared mixture, which makes the final result more accurate. It is recommended to do this immediately before starting the curing procedure and not to store the resulting colored resin. Color is added to the resin in the desired amount and mixed thoroughly. Before use, just in case, you should check the instructions for the color to clarify whether it affects the rate of curing of the resin, as is the case with some coloring pastes.
Heretic 02-05-2007 10:35
Here, in fact, it took "radical black" epoxy. Quite a lot, so the option with scraping pencils had to be postponed as a spare. What else can be mixed in to tint? some soot gas? In powder or directly paint from the art store?
Help, who can ... Who can, help ..
Sincerely.
EgorB 02-05-2007 11:06
Powder toner for printers will help
Gadyukin 02-05-2007 11:46
I made a handle out of ebony, there was a bunch of this dye. Probably any loose filler in the form of powder.
AE 02-05-2007 13:17
On all sorts of demobilization crafts, epoxy was tinted with paste from ballpoint pens.
Konstantinovich 02-05-2007 13:25
You can get any color by mixing epoxy with nitro paint. A long time ago, for example, I imitated "mammoth bone" inlay like this (epoxy + white nitro enamel: 1: 4).
bigdad 02-05-2007 13:39
Udod 02-05-2007 13:45
Modern tinting compounds are mixed with almost all types of paints. I just don't know if it's black.
Heretic 02-05-2007 14:34
quote: Originally posted by bigdad:
By mixing epoxy with artistic oil paints, you can get almost any color. Checked multiple times.
quote: Originally posted by Konstantinych:
You can get any color by mixing epoxy with nitro paint. A long time ago, for example, I imitated "mammoth bone" inlay like this (epoxy + white nitro enamel: 1: 4)
and the curing time/strength of cured varies greatly?
Sincerely.
Konstantinovich 02-05-2007 15:39
The polymerization time is accelerated by an order of magnitude.
The strength of the composition after that is excellent, like a bone.
sleep 02-05-2007 17:23
I used activated charcoal powder for black - very successful, and flour for white - it came out like a bone, the epoxy was yellow
sergeant 02-05-2007 19:46
When they cast a stock for a rifle (pneuma), they used the simplest recipe.
interfered with epoxy and poured ink from a conventional rod. prerequisite is very thorough mixing. The color was simply controlled by a drop of ink and mixed. what kind of flowers did not achieve
The rifle has been serving faithfully for 8 years already, the epoxy stays dead, does not paint anything, the rifle is actively used as a screw for entertaining.
Ryabov 10-10-2014 12:41
Hello!
Can you tell me how to paint epoxy? Or maybe somewhere they sell a multi-colored one.
I need black and ivory colors.
ASDER_K 10-10-2014 12:45
black - toner powder from a laser printer or ink from a refill from a black gel pen
veterok-iug 10-10-2014 04:16
There are some sort of special toners. I can’t tell you exactly, they took it in Germany. But Ivory did not meet among them.
And before toners, they used oil paint, in tubes, for artists. Maybe the white from there can be used in a mixture with something for the desired shade. Only with the amount of "oil" you can not overdo it, it also works as a plasticizer.
PLATYAN 10-10-2014 04:23
added acrylic paints
KSV75 10-10-2014 04:26
liquid toners for printers, but I won’t tell you with white.
val58 10-10-2014 05:16
ivory effect - titanium white
Advisor_666 10-10-2014 07:25
talc or baby powder
yuriikjl 10-10-2014 08:43
Black is available at auto parts stores. American in syringes.
Max_CM 10-10-2014 09:11
Pigments are sold in art salons, there is delivery by mail.
Produced somewhere in Novosibirsk.
I met almost everywhere I went.
Any colors, the price tag is visible.
if you don’t have what you need, well Lord! colors mix!
I don’t recommend using paints (everything that is already liquid and pasty), the paint consists of a pigment and a binder (acrylic oil or something else) why do you need it in epoxy?
For "ivory" I would just mix these two.
Crouching in the shadows 10-10-2014 09:16
color for paints in any hardware store
po_pespredelu 10-10-2014 09:50
Mazak 10-10-2014 10:09
quote: crushed Activated carbon, from available to black. Mows well for carbon, checked
In a pancake, I would not have guessed in life))))!
Live and learn.
dast 10-10-2014 10:54
quote: Originally posted by po_pespredelu:
Powdered activated charcoal, available in black. Mows well for carbon, checked
I also used for "amba" and "huaba" coal dust from the usual barbecue. with an elephant is a little more difficult. resin already with yellowness. With ordinary paints or with concrete where white is needed, titanium white can be used on their basis to try to knead?
Dr. Watson 10-10-2014 13:24
The white dye for epoxies is just titanium dioxide. But it's white. But if you shift the excess - the result becomes gray.
Sharman 10-10-2014 15:47
Will baby crayons work?
masterVAN73 10-10-2014 16:42
No. Children's crayons will not fit checked.
Max SM is right. Pigment them any artist shop
vityuxa 10-10-2014 17:03
vityuxa 10-10-2014 17:03
Epoxy turns white if water gets in, I think it’s not difficult to add yellowness, the usual stylus of children’s pencils, a little yellow, even less brown, grind on water, and a couple of drops when kneading ... not a plowed field for colorful creativity at all.
planetaplan 10-10-2014 17:23
Shlif 10-10-2014 23:52
Simply artistic oil paints in small tubes. dobovlyat literally pea-sized. Including black.
I use and observe for 3 years. The flight is normal.
From features. Due to the hardener, the red color turns into a dark crimson, orange into an incomprehensibly red. the rest is the norm. There is no splitting yet.
It is very convenient to seal up holes in trees. pointed with a toothpick desired color, a soiled toothpick gets wet in a drop of epoxy, stirs, and in the end it turns out more than worthy.
