How to tint for a pine facade. How to paint pine furniture? Water-based wood stain and alcohol stains

dyed in White color tree, looks at the same time very simple, stylish, and cozy. This type of staining while preserving the texture of wood has become one of the most popular styles interior and exterior!

In this article, we will look at 3 simple method painting wood with the effects of wear or aging, as well as beautiful and inspiring examples of floors, walls, doors and furniture painted with them.

Traditionally, whitewashing has been used as a cheap and easy way to protect wood (lime has antibacterial properties) and give it a neat appearance. Now, when we recreate the whitewash, this is usually done with any white water-based or acrylic-based interior or exterior paint external works (which is exactly what we will do in the methods described here).

Odorless water or acrylic paints!! and can be used indoors

Wood and necessary materials:

Different painting methods will show how much it can change appearance wood, be it a smooth pine board or an unsanded pallet. All three methods are very easy, fast and with great results!

• white paint on water based For interior and exterior use
• Paint mixing container
• Rag
• Brush
• Scraper or piece of hard plastic for Method #2
• Candle for method number 3

No. 1: Painting with a rag

Many types of wood that are sold in hardware stores are already sanded and have smooth surface (for example, boards or sheets of plywood), but there are also raw boards.

This bleaching method Suitable for both smooth and unsanded wood. It creates a neat and refreshing look, great for modern, farmhouse or Scandinavian style.

White paint makes the wood more refined, while leaving the opportunity to see the structure of the boards, their natural pattern.

How to do:

1. First dilute the white paint special solvent.
2. After that, dip a rag into the resulting paint mixture and wipe the wooden surface with it, making an even layer.

Apply 1-2 more coats of paint if you want the color to look more white. Let the paint dry after each new coat.

Of course, you can use a brush, but it leaves strokes, and the surface is perfectly smooth from a rag.

#2 Paint Fill Method

This method works best on unsanded wood with a slightly rough surface (e.g. wooden fence). With it, the tree can be given a rustic look and the effect of antiquity.

Step by step:

1. Clean the wood with soapy water and a brush and leave to dry.
2. If your paint is too saturated, dilute it with thinner.
3. After that, pour some paint on the wooden surface, and then take a scraper and spread the paint over the wood.

On unpolished, that is, not quite smooth wooden surface, the paint layer will not be the same everywhere. A little more paint will flow along the depressions and less on the bulges, that is, in some places the white color will be more saturated, and in some places more transparent, which will create the effect of antiquity.

You can evaluate the result of painting the wall with this method at the top.

No. 3 Method of painting with a candle

shabby White paint, through which the wood itself in its natural color is visible in some places, it is wonderfully suitable for the restoration of antique furniture or the creation of a new one, but in the same style.

In the photo below you can see an example of such wood painting with wonderful designer handles laid out on it.

Instruction:

1. Take a clean wooden board(it doesn't matter if it's polished or not) and a candle. Rub the candle on the surface of the wood in several places. You need to press on the candle quite hard so that a clear trace of wax or paraffin remains on the tree.
2. After that, paint the wood with white paint and let it dry completely.
3. Wipe the dry painted surface with a rag, and with some pressure. In those places where there was a trace of a candle, the paint will lag behind the surface.

Below is an example of a white wood floor painted in this way. It is worth noting that with this use it is better to apply a layer of protective varnish on top of the paint for more durable use.

Antique wooden furniture always serves as an interior decoration. But what if you want to update the situation a little? Yes, and the natural color of the wood seems to be completely bored ... Solid wood furniture tinting- great way out! Do-it-yourself tinting is not so difficult. The main thing to pick up necessary materials and be extremely careful in the process.

Choosing materials

For tinting wood, several types of coatings are suitable on their own. Their choice depends on what result you want to achieve in the end. Here are the most common coloring compositions:

• acrylic paint. You can buy it not only in hardware stores. It impregnates the surface well, but there is a significant minus - when the tree strongly absorbs the tinting composition, the fibers of its structure rise strongly. Therefore, it is better to mix acrylic with other decorating materials. For example, with molding or glazing.
• Mordant. This is a dry pigment that is diluted with water before application. A big plus is that such a dye does not impregnate the surface, but simply clogs small particles of wood. Toning with this composition will help to avoid irregularities and roughness of the structure. The mordant does not just color, it penetrates deep and acts chemically. So, the brightness of the resulting colors is guaranteed! But after tinting the wood with this method, the array must be varnished. Otherwise, if moisture gets on the furniture, stains may remain.
• wood stain. Most best option for tinting wood with your own hands. It does not pick up the fibers and does not require an additional layer of varnish. You can also purchase patination - this is almost the same as stain, but its shades can be adjusted.

Together with dye Buy a special woodworking brush or roller, swab, and lint-free cloth. It is better if the brush is made of natural bristles, although synthetic materials- nylon or polyester.

Getting Started with Toning

Toning can be done in several ways. Paint by hand, spray or dip into solution. The most common method that can be successfully applied at home is brush painting. So, the old wooden bedside table is already ready for its color transformation. And here's what she's up to:

• Cleaning and grinding. Before painting, it is important to level the surface and make the wood structure as smooth as possible. An ordinary skin will help with this.
• Stain application. Using a roller or brush, spread the paint evenly over the wood along the grain. And to remove the excess, simply rub the stain with a dry cloth or swab.
• Paint drying. This step is extremely important. It is better to be patient and wait until the layer dries well. Only in this case it is possible to evaluate the final result of the work and the resulting shade. If it is not saturated enough, then you can apply the stain again.
• Lacquering. This completion of tinting prolongs the wear resistance of a colored wooden product.

Do-it-yourself wood tinting- the process is quite laborious. However, if you love creativity and are not afraid to try new things, then such work will certainly bring maximum pleasure. And bright wooden interior items will delight every day!

Pigment stains are the least sensitive to chemical composition the finishing layer applied over them. Almost any finish can be applied to the dried stain, such as oil or water varnish for wood finishing, tinted water or oil stain. The stain must be completely dry before applying the varnish. The drying rate is affected by temperature, as well as the humidity of the surrounding air and the wood itself, so you should not pay attention special attention bank instructions. Use your nose: if you smell solvent, then the stain has not dried yet. Dyes are more capricious. If you apply a varnish containing the same solvent with a brush or swab, you can leave streaks and partially mix the dye with the varnish. Sometimes this can achieve greater color depth, but more often the quality of the coating is reduced. With the proper equipment, it is best to apply the varnish by spraying to avoid problems.

Dyes, pigments and methods for obtaining the desired color

You put together another project and carefully sanded all the surfaces. A can of varnish is already there, but this time you do not want the wood to have its usual color. You want this item to match the old decor of your living room or be indistinguishable from expensive furniture sold in interior salons. However, perhaps you just need to color-match the different boards from which the project is made, imitate exotic species, or make the texture of the wood more expressive and its usual color richer. If you are facing one of these tasks, it's time to start toning.

Toning is based on two types of colorants - pigments and dyes. We'll help you choose the right tool for your project and show you how to work with it.

How to choose one option from many possible

What type of dye do you prefer? You have a wide choice (photo below). The decision depends on what kind of wood you use, what kind of look you want to give it, and what kind of coating will be applied at the final stage of finishing.

For regular toning, use pigment stain or dyes. These dyes work in different ways. (photo below), and the results of their work will differ, as can be seen in the above photographs. Pigment stains are sold in stores selling paintwork materials, and dyes can be found in specialized stores or ordered from catalogs.

Pigment stains unevenly stain wood with areas of varying density, such as maple, birch, cherry or pine. Dyes penetrate deep into the surface, regardless of the density of the wood. After choosing the desired shade, remember that all dyes fade over time. Pigment stains retain their color the longest. Among the dyes, the most resistant are water-soluble, and oil or alcohol solutions of dyes fade rather quickly. Do not use dyes for tinting if the wood will get sunlight, - in such conditions they fade very quickly.

Ease of application

The technique of tinting with pigment stains and dyes is almost the same. Test it out on a trial cut, then generously apply the coloring compound to the surface of your product and wipe off the excess to even out the color.

Then let the surface dry completely, then wipe it again to remove the plaque that forms in some places. Remember that the color of the surface changes when the composition dries, and then changes again when applying a clear varnish (photo bottom left). Dyes for wood tinting can be purchased as a ready-made solution or dry powder. Thoroughly dissolve the powdered dye and strain ready solution (photo bottom right). Typically, the color of wood stained with dyes does not change with an increase in the number of layers of the coloring composition. It becomes darker, but remains transparent. Each new layer of pigment stain further darkens the surface color and reduces transparency.

Possible defects and their elimination

Although tinting is considered a simple operation, problems sometimes arise. But many of them can be avoided if you know what can happen.

Raising the pile. The main disadvantage of aqueous compounds is that they raise the pile on the wood. You should be prepared for this, and it is better to lift the pile in advance and carefully remove it. (photo bottom left) and then start toning.

wood color difference. Even good board sometimes it has patches and stripes of different colors, and most coloring compositions cannot hide this difference. Working with such boards is shown in photo on the rightat the bottom.Spotting. The wood of some species is stained unevenly. By pre-treating the surface with conditioner, you can achieve a more uniform toning.

On the next page (photo below) examples of such processing are shown. Darkening of the ends. The end surfaces absorb more stain than the rest of the board. To reduce color differences, sand the ends one step finer than the rest of the surfaces. Then treat them with conditioner. Tinting with dyes instead of pigment stains also helps to reduce the difference in surface color without resorting to the use of a conditioner.

Color mismatch. Sometimes the color of painted wood is different from what you expected. If the shade matches your plans, but it is too light, apply another layer of the same coloring composition. If the resulting shade is not as desired, it can be covered with a darker stain.

If the color is too dark and the surface is not yet dry, it can be lightened slightly by wiping with a suitable solvent. Water stains are washed off with water, and for oil stains you need to use white spirit.

If the water stain is already dry, you can partially remove it with an ox and re-tint the surface. Dried oil stain can often be removed organic solvents for varnishes and enamels. If this is not enough, use a wash, then lighten the remaining stains with bleach, and then proceed to tint again.

It is possible to slightly lighten the painted surface by wiping it gently with a suitable solvent, but care must be taken to keep the shade even and to avoid spots and streaks.

Variations on a theme

We have focused your attention on pigment stains and dyes, but there are five more products that can be used to tone wood. In some cases, it is better to prefer combined coloring compositions containing pigments and dyes, colored oil-lacquer mixtures, gel stain, universal finishing compositions or the so-called "lint-free" stains (that is, stains that do not cause lint to rise). The most convenient to use are combined coloring compositions. (photo above). However, in some situations, gel stain can achieve better results. (photo below).

Colored oil-lacquer mixtures, which include the so-called "Danish" oil, contain oil, varnish, thinner and colorants. Such compositions are easy to apply, penetrate deeper into the wood and, thanks to a moderately resistant binder, can serve as an independent finishing agent.

Universal finishing compositions, used as a final finishing layer, contain a varnish (for example, polyurethane) with coloring agents. The thinner for such compositions is white spirit or ox, and the coloring matter is a dye or pigment. With their help, the finishing coating is applied simultaneously with toning. They practically do not penetrate deep into the wood and are similar in properties to paints. Because of fast drying working with them requires certain skills to apply a uniformly thin layer. Additional layers darken the color and make it less transparent. When applied with a brush, it is difficult to avoid overlapping areas that will stand out as dark spots. As a rule, the use of such compositions in the finishing in the workshop should be avoided.

"lint-free" wave-based stains can be diluted with alcohol or varnish thinner, and used on top of them finishing coatings oil based. They dry too quickly, making them less comfortable than regular water stains, and most of amateur carpenters do just fine without them.

Expand your color palette

Most carpenters buy ready-made compounds for tinting wood, the standard range of which is available in many stores. But if you want to go beyond the usual colors or just want to experiment, learn how to change these colors to your liking. One way is to mix standard colors, but first you need to make sure that the mixes are compatible. They must use the same solvent.

Much more possibilities provides the addition of primary colors to finished formulations or their application directly to the surface of the wood. Use artistic oil paints or so-called Japanese paints if stain and oil-based varnish will be applied afterwards. If the product is covered with stain and water-based varnish, you can use acrylic paints diluted with an aqueous solution of glue. Such paints are sold in art salons and art stores.

The color wheel will tell you how to get the desired color. The most famous color wheels show how to use red, yellow and blue paints to get all the other colors.

Nevertheless, restrained shades of the so-called "earthy" range traditionally dominate in the decoration of furniture. (see photo below). Various combinations of natural and burnt umber, sienna, ocher, black and white pigments give a rich palette beautiful shades which are used in the furniture business. Experiment on scraps and, having achieved the desired result, do not forget to write down the recipe.

If you want to achieve a special shade, use the available options that most carpenters are not even aware of. Acrylic and oil artistic paints and the color wheel will help you get any shade that will turn the most ordinary project into something special.

We used acrylic glazes and art-shop paints to get these results on oak wood. On the left sample, natural sienna was applied, the middle one was covered with burnt umber, and on the right sample, both paints were mixed together.

You can see the difference between dyes and pigment stains. The oak board on the right was stained with golden brown, and the board below was stained with the same color stain.

Like paints, pigment stains remain on the surface of the wood, almost without penetrating into the depths. because of high content paint pigments are opaque. Stains contain the same pigments, but in smaller quantities, so they are relatively transparent (they can be considered highly diluted paints).

The smallest pigment particles are mixed with a binder - a substance that holds the pigment after drying on the surface. The most famous oil-type binder is drying oil. Other substances are used in water stains. All pigment stains should be thoroughly mixed before application to evenly distribute the settled pigment particles in the liquid and prevent the appearance of multi-colored streaks.

Dyes are very different from pigments. They are transparent, penetrate deep into any wood, and it is easier to achieve color uniformity with them.

You can purchase ready-made dye solutions, dry powders or liquid concentrates. Powders and concentrates are diluted with an appropriate solvent: water, alcohol or one of the petroleum solvents, for example, a solvent. Important to use for each type of dye suitable solvent. Water dye, as a rule, cannot be diluted with alcohol.

Liquid dye concentrates can often be diluted with several solvents. Alcohol dyes are the fastest drying (perhaps too fast drying, making them difficult to work with). Water-soluble dyes are safe and most convenient to use.

When toning, it is most important to consider how the color changes when the coloring composition dries. Often the carpenter, seeing the dried surface, considers it necessary to apply a few more layers to enhance the color, but this usually leads to an error. If the color of the raw surface was as desired, nothing needs to be done. This color will come back after clear coat is applied as shown in the picture. . Some colorants dry faster than others, and if the stain is already dry, it will be more difficult to remove excess stain. Water stains dry faster than oil stains. Often the dry surface will appear dusty and dull in color, but this is nothing to worry about.

By mixing dry dye powder with alcohol or water, you will not be able to completely dissolve all its particles, despite the thoroughness of mixing. Let the solution stand, then stir again, and then strain through a paper coffee filter, cheesecloth or nylon stocking to get rid of undissolved particles. Always wear a dust mask when working with dry powder, as it is very dusty and can cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems. To achieve the desired shade, you can mix pigment stains with dyes, if they are diluted in the same solvent. For best results, mix products from the same manufacturer. You should also dilute each coloring agent separately before mixing them with each other. Do not add a powder or concentrate of one color to a ready-made solution of another color.

Water stains and dyes raise the pile on the wood. The tiny fibers swell and remain raised like bristles. If you apply a layer finishing composition(varnish or paint), the surface will resemble sandpaper.

The easiest way to deal with this phenomenon (before applying a stain or water-based dye) is to lift the pile and then remove it. Moisten the surface with clean water from a spray bottle and let it dry completely. Now, by grinding or scraping, remove the raised villi. Simple and effective scrapers are obtained from replacement blades for craft knives. Hold the blade almost vertically, as shown in the photo, and carefully scrape the surface.

The wood may have different colour, and it is not always possible to completely correct this difference with a single layer of stain. It is most difficult to do this on woods such as cherry or walnut, in which the sapwood is much lighter than the heartwood.

If you want the whole surface to be dark, apply stain only to the sapwood, as shown in this cherry plank example. After drying, apply another layer of the same stain, covering the entire part with it. If you want to achieve a uniform coloration of the entire surface, the color of the stain should match the color of the heartwood. Use this stain only on sapwood areas.

Pine, cherry, maple and birch wood on the surface of the same board has areas of different density. Such heterogeneity is the cause of uneven toning when using pigment stains. Soft areas absorb more stain than hard areas and appear darker after toning.

You can reduce the effect of heterogeneity with the help of a conditioner, applying it before toning. Conditioner is a type of binder that closes wood pores, and you can see the result of its application in the photo on the left.

We used Minwax conditioner and a red-brown stain to treat the left pine board, and the right board is covered only with stain.

You can make your own conditioner. If for upper layers coatings chosen polyurethane varnish, make a conditioner from one part of varnish diluted with five parts of thinner. Apply this mixture to the surface, dry, lightly sand sandpaper No. 220, and then tint with stain.

Combined formulations containing dye and pigment stain usually delaminate during long-term storage on the store shelf. The dye remains in solution, and the pigments settle to the bottom of the jar. To obtain the original color, the composition should be thoroughly mixed. You can determine such compositions with a stick by lowering its end to the bottom of the jar. If there is a clot on it, and the stick itself becomes colored (see. photo below) you are dealing with a combined composition. The dye stains dense areas of the wooden surface, and the pigment accumulates in the pores. Such compositions tint problematic rocks more evenly, but in order to further reduce color heterogeneity, it is better to apply a conditioner first. Combined formulations are applied in different ways.

At the top of the jar, when left unstirred, is a dye solution that can be used directly to tint wood or added to a compatible varnish to make a toner (more on that in the next article in this series).

By slightly mixing the contents of the can, you will get a slightly different shade of the same color. Thorough mixing will give another shade. Finally, the pigment residue, if not stirred, is excellent for use as a patina, which will be discussed in the next article.

Stain-gel consists of a pigment, a dye or a mixture thereof and an oil- or water-based binder. Strictly speaking, it is a kind of paint that covers the surface without being absorbed into it. Such stains hide the texture pattern a little, but it is easier to achieve color uniformity with them (see photo). photo below). The left sample was coated with a conventional water stain, and a gel stain was used to tint the right sample. Stain-gel is great for applying the so-called patina. The patination technique allows you to add colored layers between the layers of the base coat and imitate a texture pattern on any surface. For example, you can do two different boards similar to each other and turn the hardboard into oak.

Internal staircase - functional element and a noticeable accent in the interior of the house. Most often it is built from pine wood. The task of the designer is to make sure that the architectural component blends harmoniously into the environment and performs its tasks for as long as possible. To do this, a pine staircase is treated with special products and painted in accordance with the overall design.

What are the advantages of making stairs from pine

During the construction and decoration of budget wooden houses pine wood is used. This wood is not as durable as oak, cedar or larch, but is quite durable, more common, cheap and available. Pine is better than spruce because it has a denser texture and much less knots that reduce the strength of lumber.

Pine products are distinguished by a pleasant light golden or almost white color and a unique pattern.

Pine has a pleasant light golden or almost white color.

Features of pine wood

Pine is somewhat more difficult to work with than cedar or oak. Soft wood needs fine sanding and careful selection of processing agents.

The density of the material depends on the growing conditions of the tree:

• In warm periods, intensely growing fibers form a loose array. Cold years provide hard and dense wood.
• Pine harvested in the mountains has a dense and uniform texture, while pine grown on sandy soils has a light, loose, fibrous texture.
• The northern pine is better than the material obtained in the southern latitudes.

Therefore, most of the resulting lumber absorbs the processing agents unevenly. Under transparent coating unsightly spots appear, which for aesthetic reasons is extremely unpleasant. Gum (resin) contributes to the appearance of color spots on the surface of pine products. If the raw material is prepared in winter period, when the bulk of the resin is pumped by the tree into root system, the fibers remain drier, cleaner and stronger. They evenly absorb processing agents. On wood cut down during the spring-summer sap flow, stains and stains appear. Brought into a warm, dry room, it begins to push the resin out.

steps interior stairs usually built from edged massive board. But often they use a glued board, which has greater strength and wear resistance. The difference in the color of the lamellas from which such a board is assembled is especially noticeable. In addition, due to changes in humidity, the lamellas begin to warp over time, gaps form between them.

On a glued board, the difference in the color of the lamellas is especially noticeable

If you wish to leave the interfloor wooden stairs its original natural color, you will have to use special means processing: primer, mastic, wax, stain. A simpler option is to apply a decorative opaque coating to a pine staircase.

Why you need to paint your home

The statement that a tree is beautiful and does not need to be painted is fundamentally wrong. Wood does have an attractive appearance, but it is very vulnerable to insects, mold, hard shoe soles, dirt, and fire. Steps wear out especially quickly.

Stair rungs wear out the fastest

Therefore, it is necessary to paint a pine staircase. If you want to see the natural pattern of wood, paint at least with a colorless varnish, but be sure to paint!

The paint creates a solid protective covering, which does not allow premature "wearing out" wood fibers. It is inedible for the bug and unsuitable for the settlement of rot and mold. Impregnation at times enhance protection and extend the life of the product.

How to paint

For the processing of pine stairs are used:

In order for the coating to turn out to be of high quality and durable, cover the wood only with high-quality materials purchased in specialized stores or from manufacturers.

Which coloring material to choose: a comparison table

For stairs, use matte or semi-gloss paints. Glossy steps and railings from constant use lose their luster over time and look untidy. It will not be possible to quickly refresh the color, you will have to grind and repaint all surfaces.

Materials and tools

• Primer
• Thinner, paint cleaner
• Paint, enamel, varnish
• Putty on wood
• sealant
• masking tape
• Protective film
• Putty knife
• Napkins, rags, rags
• Scraper
• Sanding tool, sandpaper
• Mini rollers, brushes
• Protective equipment: gloves, respirator ("petal" or others).

How to work with paint or enamel

All work with paints and solvents should be carried out in the warm season to ensure constant ventilation of the room.

Video: How to paint steps with paint

The procedure for working with varnish

Preparation and coating of stairs with wood stain + video

1. Perform all preliminary work: protection of adjacent surfaces, cleaning, puttying, sealing, grinding.
2. Use a paint brush to apply stain to one step. Leave on for 2-3 minutes to absorb. With a dry, lint-free cotton cloth, carefully wipe off excess material, moving it only in the longitudinal direction.
3. Treat all steps, balusters, railings in the same way.
4. If the color of the impregnation turned out to be uneven, repeat the treatment. In order for the stain to lay down more evenly, not to leave stains, to better emphasize the texture of the wood, moisten the surface with water before applying it. When working with stain, wear rubber gloves, since contact with soiled rags is inevitable.

Before staining the entire staircase, experiment with the tone in a small, inconspicuous area.

Finishing varnish (with video instructions)

• For stairs, it is desirable to use matte and semi-gloss varnishes. They do not show signs of wear, and the slip coefficient of the matte surface is lower, which makes the stairs safer.

Glossy surface wear looks especially unsightly

• Combined coatingFor painting the internal stairs, you can use the combined method. For example, paint the vertical parts of the steps and balusters with paint, and protect the more worn horizontal parts of the steps and railings with parquet varnish.

The best varnish for steps is polyurethane parquet. It is expensive, but extremely durable.

When working with a spray gun, the use of a respirator is mandatory.

Painting interior stairs is not difficult and is quite affordable. home master. If you have purchased high-quality materials and followed the technology while working, your staircase will fulfill its tasks and look brilliant for a very long time.

Pine furniture is very popular due to its pleasant texture, reasonable cost, and is distinguished long term operation. It is clear that wood requires appropriate care, which will increase its strength and extend its service life. In most cases wooden crafts from pine they are not tinted or stained, but simply varnished. There are several reasons for this:

• You can buy furniture from different manufacturers, and it will still look good in the complex.
• The varnish, spreading evenly over the surface, emphasizes the beauty of the wood.
• Pine is considered an inexpensive material and varnishing increases its final cost.

In addition to varnish, paints and stains are also used to paint pine furniture. So what is the best way to paint pine furniture? Let's deal with this in the article.

What does painting furniture do?

Wood staining is done for various purposes:

• To give the furniture the desired color;
• To improve the quality characteristics;
• To improve moisture and heat resistance.

Today, pine furniture is produced, tinted under other types of wood, for example, oak, cherry, walnut, etc. But this is an assortment color schemes cannot satisfy all consumer groups.

How can you paint a pine shield?

Many prefer self-coloring wooden furniture. And here the natural question arises, with what and how to paint furniture board from pine?

There are three main wood processing technologies:

• Toning.
• Application of varnish and paint.

Furniture tinting

Pine has a beautiful amber-golden color. Such furniture fits into any interior, from the living room to the children's room. What can be achieved by tinting:

• highlight the structure of wood and improve its natural color;
• hide surface defects by painting in a darker shade;
• make pine furniture look valuable breed tree;
• hide color heterogeneity;
• get a color unusual for a tree, for example, green or blue.

Important! Aniline dyes are used for tinting. aqueous solutions tannins, salts, acids. They are perfectly absorbed by wood, quickly dissolve in water.

Technology features

When processing wood, you need to consider several important points:

1. The surface of the wood must be sanded before processing, as well as after it.
2. Before tinting, the surface must be primed.
3. You need to get rid of dark spots or streaks, as they will ruin the final result.
4. After applying the stain, the wood should dry out.
5. Then the wood is covered with translucent paint or varnished.

Lacquering and painting of pine wood

At the very beginning, the surface of the wood is cleaned of old paint or varnish, all knots are removed. Due to the presence of resinous substances on the surface, a lot of difficulties arise, therefore, for competent painting of pine furniture, it must be deresined.

Wood deresining

Pine furniture requires special attention and additional processing. This happens for several reasons:

• Areas where resin accumulates darken over time, spoiling the appearance.
• The resin creates a sticky film on the surface that prevents the primer from being absorbed.
• Due to the resin, the dyes are applied unevenly.

Resin removal is the process of completely or partially removing resin from the surface of wood. For this, a special composition is prepared:

• 200 g 25% technical solution acetone;
• 50 g of potash;
• 40-50 g of baking soda;
• 40 g soap flakes;
• 10 g of technical alcohol;
• 1 liter of hot water.

All components are mixed, the composition is applied with a brush. Then the surface is washed and dried.

Important! If there is large plots resin, it is better to cut them with a knife, and then close these recesses with putty.

Priming, painting

After deresining, a primer is applied. It can be applied using wide brush or roller. Then a layer of paint or varnish is applied, cleaned with sandpaper, and then another layer of colorant is applied.

Important! Varnish or paint is better to choose good quality, but not necessarily imported - domestic solutions are also great, and cheaper. When choosing a specific type of solution, give preference to a safer, non-toxic mixture, based on the component composition.