How to properly plaster walls: the necessary materials and tools, the technology of applying the solution. Proper plastering and plastering of the wall with your own hands How to plaster the walls with your own hands for a beginner

Plastering works are performed not only to level the surface, but also to give it various decorative properties.
It is only important to know how to properly plaster with cement mortar. Having studied the technology of preparatory and plastering works, it allows to obtain a high quality surface and for many years.

But what do you need to know in order to properly apply plaster on the walls?
The work is divided into several stages.
The stage of surface preparation, tools and materials.
Installing beacons. The installation of beacons is written on the website in the article.
Preparation of the composition and application of plaster on the surface.

Initial stage of work

Every surface must pass.
Surface preparation for plastering includes cleaning the surface from old paint, wallpaper, dirt and greasy spots.

To facilitate the removal of old wallpaper, apply a special solution to the surface that lifts the material. After a short exposure, lift the old wallpaper with a spatula, winding it under the wallpaper.
Old paint is scraped off with a spatula or a wire brush.

A cleaned and dried surface is a must.
A primer is a liquid, which includes substances that increase the adhesion (adhesion) of building materials.
Be sure to follow the rule, use finishing materials from one manufacturer.
If you bought a dry plaster mixture from a certain manufacturer, then buy a primer from the same manufacturer.
A primer called Betokontakt, which is a polymer dispersion with increased resistance to alkali, is in high demand. The composition of the liquid includes quartz sand, which several times increases the adhesion of the primer.

Applying plaster

The process of applying plaster is subject to the following requirements:

• the temperature in the premises should be in the range of + 5 ... 30ºС, and the relative humidity of the air cannot be higher than 60%;
• a special tool is used;
• the plaster mortar is applied in stages using special techniques.
  The most requested tools are:
• spatulas and trowels of various sizes;
• wide bast brush;
• duralumin or wooden falcon;
• trowel, grater, rule.

How to prepare a mortar for plaster

The selected plaster mixture is prepared according to certain rules and strictly according to the attached instructions.
Pour into a clean plastic bucket right amount water according to the instructions supplied with the dry plaster mixture. Then pour the dry mix in the desired parts.
To mix the mixture, use a special mixer.

You need to prepare such an amount of solution that you can process during the life of the solution. It is indicated on the packaging of dry plaster and is less than 1 hour.

How to apply plaster correctly

Before applying the solution, it is necessary to fix the reinforcing mesh on the wall or fill the shingles. The seams on the brick must be cut, a notch is applied to the concrete surface. The depth of cut seams on bricks must be at least 5 mm. The concrete surface is wetted with water.

To apply putty on the wall, use two spatulas: up to 50 cm long and a spatula up to 10 cm wide.
Using a small spatula, the solution is superimposed on a large one, and already large is applied to the wall.
The solution can be applied with a trowel, trowel.

Throw the solution between the beacons from below, and go up. The solution is leveled by a rule that constantly moves in a horizontal plane and moves up.
Remove the remaining putty from the rule with a small spatula, applying it to the desired place on the wall.
Always clean the container from the remnants of the solution after it has been produced. The new solution is mixed only in a clean container without traces of the previous solution.

The remaining defects on the wall are eliminated after the solution dries. The formed nodules or furrows are best removed with a spatula.

The ceiling is plastered first, and then the walls.

The classic way of applying plaster

The plaster solution is applied in several layers.
The first layer is applied by spray. The second layer is . The third layer is the lining. The adhesive strength of the plaster on the wall depends on the application of the first layer.
The spray is applied with a liquid solution that fills the cells of the reinforcing mesh, shingles, notches on concrete, joints in brickwork.
The layer thickness on concrete and brick does not exceed 5 mm, on mesh or shingles up to 10 mm.
A trowel is used for spraying.
The surface is rough and does not require leveling.

It is necessary to prime the spray layer after hardening, but still wet layer. It is determined by an open palm applied to a rough surface. The surface is quite hard, but also wet at the same time.
The primer solution is somewhat thicker than the solution for spraying, it is well smeared with a spatula.
A solution is applied to the middle of the falcon and, using a wide spatula, the composition is thrown onto the wall. Each portion of the solution must be smoothed with a spatula. The mortar is applied with an overlap and immediately smoothed out.
A falcon is called a square wooden plank, in the middle of which a plaster mortar is applied.
The primer layer is covered with a finishing layer of plaster and is designed to eliminate the smallest defects. The thickness of the finishing layer does not exceed 2 mm. The top coat is applied to the wet primer coat with a wide spatula in an arc, pressing the bottom edge against the primed coat.

New progressive methods and nano-technologies appearing almost daily in production and in everyday life never cease to amaze both ordinary people and professionals. Take at least the same building. How could, say, in Soviet time some foreman, almost with tears in his eyes, knocking out the notorious plan from his workers, to dream that there were not only special devices for plastering walls, but at least more or less acceptable finishing materials, and not just sand and cement . Of course not. But they did work. They erected houses, handed over the keys to the apartments to happy new settlers. And they followed the same plan. And they overfulfilled. True, the quality of work left much to be desired, but these are trifles. Therefore, today, when there is great amount all kinds of finishing materials, at times facilitating the work of the master, it is a sin not to use this. Houses are being built today, the same crooked, Soviet-era walls that the current owners would like to bring to mind remain. Yes, you never know where required Finishing work. And they are oh so expensive if you invite professionals. That is why home craftsmen are increasingly thinking about how to learn how to plaster walls, whether it is possible to cope with this work on their own, what materials are better for what surfaces. We will try to give an exhaustive answer to these and other questions in our review. And at the same time, we will tell you in detail how to plaster walls on lighthouses, what types of finishing materials are, how to properly prepare the surface, and much more. Reading, learning, learning. And we plaster the walls with our own hands.

Ways

Since no one can plaster walls without at least rudimentary skills and knowledge of the basics of the process, let's start, as they say, from the very beginning. By and large, there are only two ways to finish. This is plaster, so to speak, in a plane, using special device- regulations. And with the exposure (necessarily under the building level) beacons. The first option is used in cases where the curvature of the surface is not too striking, and the defects and differences existing on it are not particularly significant. The second is used for finishing draft walls. Or so crooked that it is possible to bring them to mind only by applying a thick layer of finishing material. It is much easier to work in a plane, but with beacons it is much more difficult. Therefore, before looking for an answer to the question of how to properly plaster walls, reasonably evaluate the surface to be updated. Perhaps it will be possible to manage, so to speak, with little blood.

Kinds

The question "how to plaster walls" cannot be answered unambiguously. Because this type of finishing work can be done in different ways and using different materials. In addition, the walls themselves are also far from all and not everywhere the same. They can be either internal or external. Both facade and surfaces are subject to plastering. utility rooms. Agree, it is difficult to compare the walls of the pantry with those, say, in the living room or bedroom. In this regard, when we plaster the walls with our own hands, without having, quite understandably, the necessary professional skills, we should remember the following. AT non-residential premises that do not require additional finishing (the same wallpapering or ceramic tiling) - pantries, garages, sheds, etc. - the usual method of plastering walls is used. With this form, the solution is applied only in two layers, as a rule, by eye. With an improved finish, they are plastered in three layers, in addition, the walls, after applying and drying the mortar, are subject to puttying. High-quality finishes involve the use of beacons and expensive blends from well-known brands.

In addition, anyone who decides to thoroughly study how to plaster walls correctly should remember one more thing: you should not confuse ordinary decoration with decorative. Venetian, flock, textured and other types of plaster are not intended for leveling walls. This is the final stage of finishing work, followed by only painting.

materials

It is quite clear that every novice master has a natural question: “What is the best way to plaster walls?” Today, few people prepare solutions on their own, because you can buy ready-made mixtures that you just need to dilute with water. The main thing is to choose them correctly. So, for example, cement-lime mixtures are excellent for walls made of aerated concrete, brick, concrete. I make them from sand, lime, cement and various additives that contribute to better adhesion of the mortar and improve its quality characteristics. There are also universal mixtures suitable for finishing any walls, both inside and outside. They are called cement-sand, and what they consist of is clear from the name. Plus, of course, the same additives, without which, by the way, not a single mixture for finishing work can do today. The last type - gypsum plasters - is the most popular. But these mixtures are also the most expensive. But they are easy to work with, and the quality of finishing with gypsum mortars is always excellent. True, they dry out very quickly, in addition, they cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, for example, if the question is “how to plaster the walls in the bathroom”, then the best answer to it will be the choice of a cement-sand mortar, which is not afraid of any water.

Instruments

When wondering how to plaster walls, you need to understand that you can’t do without special tools here. Therefore, every novice finisher must certainly acquire the following materials and tools:

Training

Since it is impossible to plaster walls without preliminary preparation, let's say a few words about this simple, but very important process. First of all, the old coating existing on it must be removed from the surface. First of all, this applies to wallpaper, oil paint, whitewash. And you need to get rid of them very diligently, to the maximum. If you find impressive cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, then they must be expanded, and then cleaned of existing sand, primed and sealed with mortar. You also need to check the surface for internal defects, in particular, voids. Why does the wall need to be knocked out. The presence of a dull sound will be evidence that in this place the old plaster has not adhered well to the base surface. It must be beaten off, and then also repaired. If the pits obtained after beating are very deep, then for better adhesion of the solution used to fill the defects, it is necessary to put some filler into them - foam plastic, pieces of reinforcing mesh, etc. It is also better to beat off the bumps protruding above the surface, which will make it possible to significantly save the amount used finishing material.

A prerequisite is that the surface must be carefully primed before starting work. Each finishing material has its own type of primer (information about this can be found on the packaging in which the mixture is stored). If there is no way to purchase exactly the one recommended by the manufacturer, take acrylic. The primer is applied either with a roller or a brush. If you have a sprayer, even better. You can use it.

What should be feared

Even high-class professionals, not like beginners, often have “blunders”. What should be feared when starting plastering walls, what defects are most common and how to avoid them?

Shrinkage cracks most often occur due to the fact that the mortar used for work has dried too quickly. Most often this happens when the room temperature is very high. Or a draft walks through it. Another reason for the appearance of such cracks is the application of a subsequent layer of mortar on the previous one that has not yet had time to dry.

It also happens that in some places the new plaster begins to simply peel off. All this is due to the fact that the preliminary preparation of the walls was carried out incorrectly (or carelessly). Let's say the base surface was either too dry or very dirty.

Sometimes, on freshly finished walls, in some areas, the mortar seems to swell. Cause? The original base surface was very raw.

Quite often, novice craftsmen are not very satisfied with their work, because the plastered surface turns out to be rough. Well, it was necessary to conscientiously carry out the final procedure - grouting.

The occurrence of all these shortcomings may be due to another reason: the discrepancy between the material from which the walls are built and the mortar used for finishing. But we will cover this issue in more detail below.

Gypsum

By and large, the process of plastering walls is almost always the same. The only but - there may be some nuances when using a finishing material that has different basis. As we said above, all solutions are usually prepared from gypsum or cement. Therefore, a few words about their features.

So, how to plaster walls with gypsum plaster? Firstly, such mixtures are very rarely used to level walls, which are characterized by a large curvature. Gypsum plasters cannot be called bad. On the contrary, they are very good. But, as we have already mentioned, firstly, expensive ones, and secondly, they dry very quickly. In this regard, they are most often used only where, in order to obtain a high-quality final result, it is required to apply a small layer of finishing material. Due to the fact that the gypsum mortar dries quickly, it is ideal for sealing impressive local defects. As for the peculiarities of working with it, one thing must be remembered: it needs to be kneaded quickly, and not very much. As much as it takes to process a wall section within an hour. Naturally, it is impossible to compare the speed of work of a professional and a novice master. Therefore, knead the solution in small portions and quickly, using a special mixer (the so-called nozzle on an electric drill). Spray with a small spatula all the prepared mixture at once, and then with a large one (about forty or fifty centimeters long) level it over the surface. The first layer is aligned horizontally. If you need to apply another layer, then you should wait for the absolute drying of the first. The second is already aligned vertically.

Cement

Modern cement mortars, due to the presence of various additives and modifiers in them, are very plastic, easy to work with, and do not harden for a long time. How to plaster walls with cement mortar? Yes, just like plaster. The only difference is that cement mixtures do not dry out as quickly, and therefore they are great for finishing large areas. In addition, if it is necessary to apply the solution in several layers, it is necessary to increase the exposure time (the solution dries for six or even eight hours).

When you, after a little practice, realize that you have already filled your hand enough, you can work with the help of the rule. First throw on cement mixture on a significant section of the wall, and then align it by drawing the rule from top to bottom.

corners

One of the most painful questions. How to plaster wall corners? Indeed, this can be a problem. Especially when you consider that the corners in our apartments are far from exemplary. In order to make them straight, you can use a little trick. You need to stock up on a good straight board, and its length should be the same as the height of the room. Then fix it with screws directly into the corner perpendicularly standing wall, departing from its edge a distance equal to the thickness of the applied layer of plaster. The procedure must be carried out using (this is a prerequisite) level and plumb. After the plastered surface has dried, fix the board in the same way on the already processed surface in order to bring the entire corner to mind. As for the outer corners, everything is much simpler here. For their finishing, a special metal perforated profile is sold, which is attached to the corner to be leveled with a mortar. The correctness of the work is controlled by the same level.

As you can see, the devil is not so terrible ... Well, now about a more complicated procedure. About how to plaster walls on lighthouses.

We work with lighthouses

This method allows you to get an almost flat surface at the exit. When working with lighthouses, a cement-based mixture is used for plastering, but it is necessary to fix the profile on the wall with a gypsum mortar, as it dries faster. So, the algorithm of actions.

Lighthouses are special metal profiles that can be purchased at almost any hardware store. Before buying them, measure the height and area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room to be finished. And then do the calculations. The profile must be installed every one and a half meters. The distance from the first beacon to the corner is no more than fifteen, a maximum of twenty centimeters. As for the length, it can be different, but not less than two and a half meters.

So, the description of the process. Vertically, we apply on the wall every thirty centimeters, as it were, tubercles from a gypsum mortar. Then carefully insert the beacon into them (its length should correspond to the height of the room). And then, checking the level, we press the profile into the solution in such a way that in the end result it stands perfectly even. First, we install two beacons in the corners in this way. Then we stretch the thread between them (under the ceiling and closer to the floor). It will serve as a guide for installing beacons in the middle of the wall. Now it is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the solution. Experienced craftsmen often take alabaster to strengthen lighthouses. But this method is not entirely suitable for a beginner, since such a solution dries almost instantly. So it's best to be patient.

Next, you need to plaster the gaps between the beacons. Starting from the floor, we throw the solution. And then as a rule, passing them along the beacons (almost like on rails), we tighten and align it. Filling gaps should be carried out in parts. Professionals recommend that after the gap is completely filled, draw the rule several times and in the vertical direction. This will make the wall appear smoother.

At the end of the work and after the solution has dried, some then break out the profile, and the resulting cavities are closed up again. By and large, apart from additional difficulties, this will bring nothing. So beacons can be safely left in the wall. They are made of stainless steel, and therefore they will not present any unpleasant surprises in the process of further finishing.

slopes

As a rule, if such global work is carried out indoors, then everything is finished. And therefore, the novice master is interested in how to plaster slopes. We answer. Just like everything else. Using mortar and level. As you know, slopes (it doesn’t matter if they are door or window) have external corners. For their finishing, a special profile is used. We have already mentioned it above. As for the material used, if the defects on the slopes are large, then it is preferable to take cement mortars, since it will be necessary to apply the plaster in several stages. If not, gypsum will do. The algorithm of actions is similar. Surface preparation, throwing the solution, leveling it with a spatula. The final stage is finishing with putty, painting.

Various surfaces

Everyone knows that wall surfaces are different. It can also be drywall, which, by the way, does not need to be plastered, since the walls made of it are already even, and brick, and wood, and blocks. The finishing of each of the surfaces has its own nuances. About what in a few words - further.

How to plaster walls from foam blocks? For these purposes, a cement mixture is usually taken. You can use the usual one, or you can purchase a special one, created for finishing this particular material. True, its cost is much higher. Let's talk right away. The plastering process itself - regardless of what the base surface is made of - is the same in all cases. The difference lies only in the presence or absence of any additional stages. So, for example, for plastering foam blocks, it is necessary to first strengthen the surface with a reinforcing mesh. It is mounted on special hooks. And then carry out finishing work. How to plaster aerated concrete walls? The same as from foam blocks - cement mortar. Only here it is already possible to do without reinforcement, it is enough to put a polyurethane painting mesh under the mortar.

The question of how to plaster brick walls can be answered as follows. If they are very uneven, then you also need to carry out reinforcement first. And use the same as the material cement mortar. With almost perfect brickwork, it is quite possible to work with gypsum mixture. But, as already mentioned, it is more expensive, and therefore not very acceptable for large areas (for reasons of economy). As for how to plaster wooden walls, everything is clear here. Only on the crate, and only with gypsum mortar. Much has already been said about the latter, so we will not repeat ourselves. As for the so-called shingles, it is made from slats, nailed crosswise. Then I treat it with an antiseptic, and then apply a plaster solution to the surface.

Proper plaster do-it-yourself walls require some experience and skills in working with the tool. Finishing work in a new house or a thorough renovation of an apartment suggests that plastering walls is a process in which careful step-by-step work from start to finish is important. First you need to calculate the required amount of materials, select their brand in accordance with the conditions of the room, determine which coating technology will be used. A beginner should practice small area walls.

Preparation rules

Types of mortars and methods of plastering internal walls are selected depending on the base material that is going to be plastered. The quality of the resulting surface is also important, sufficient for the expected operating conditions in which the plastered walls will be located.

The current requirements of SNiP III-21-73 classify the performance of plastering works according to 3 quality indicators:

1. Low quality. This type of coating is suitable for walls in non-residential premises. Tolerances in horizontal and vertical deviations reach 3 mm per 1 m. For every 4 m² of area, 3 smooth irregularities are allowed, with a depth of more than 5 mm. It is allowed to use cheap starting mixtures for wall plastering.
2. The average. Requirements for surface quality are increasing: deviations should not be more than 2 mm per 1 m. Smooth irregularities are limited to 2 pieces, their depth is up to 3 mm. With this view, you can plaster the outer walls (facade).
3. High. For this type of coating, the performance requirements are the most stringent. Permissible horizontal and vertical deviations are 1 mm / m, and not more than 2 smooth irregularities, with a depth of not more than 2 mm.

Irregularities on the walls after setting the mortar reveals a rule applied to the beacons verified during installation, as in this photo:

The appearance of waves is caused not so much by the uneven movements of the master, but by the fluidity of the solution itself, its shrinkage during drying and the uneven thickness of the layer. These indicators, in turn, depend on the components used for preparation.

The latest ready-made dry mixes practically do not shrink if the basics of plastering technology and the manufacturer's recommendations are followed.

Types of solutions

In the case when, when repairing an apartment, we plaster the walls ourselves, the wall plastering technology is usually based on self-cooking mortars applied to surfaces by hand.

Large areas that need to be plastered quickly and a sufficient construction budget allow the use of a mechanized method of throwing mortar, which gives a significant advantage in how to level the walls with plaster, shown in this photo:

In order to apply the prepared solution yourself or with the help of special equipment, it must be of the desired consistency, you must observe the proportions of all components.

The recipe for plaster mixtures that are prepared independently, immediately before plastering the walls, can be found in the following table:

Differences in the dosage of ingredients mean that the technology of plastering works on surfaces made of various materials (brick, concrete and its derivatives, wood, solid insulation) will also be slightly different.

The right tool

Most of the fixtures and tools needed to plaster a wall are usually available at home for people who are used to doing DIY repairs. Consumables that provide the required plastering work are available at any hardware store.

The presence of electric manual equipment determines how quickly certain operations will be performed, but is not mandatory - the old guard did everything by hand.

List of tools needed for plastering walls and Supplies includes the following items:

• building level, tape measure, plumb;
• twine, pencil (marker);
• narrow and wide spatulas, brush (paint roller), as a rule, stroked;
• perforator with a mixer nozzle, a tank for preparing a solution;
• painting beacons (as an option - self-tapping screws or dowels);
• hammer, screwdriver, grinder or metal scissors;
• mortar, primer, putty.

Be sure to observe the safety conditions for work: comfortable work clothes, a hat, protective gloves and goggles.

Plastering walls from different materials

Not every kind building material can be plastered with the same mortar with the same long-term result. Therefore, you should first figure out how to properly plaster the walls with your own hands in order to justify the hopes placed on it.

Brickwork

First of all, you need to study the sequence of how to plaster brick walls so that, due to an attempt to save insignificant funds, you do not lose the quality of the resulting finish.

For brickwork, as a rule, cement-based mixtures are used, sometimes a small% of lime is added to ensure the desired plasticity. In rooms with high humidity, lime must be used for exterior decoration of buildings.

On brick walls, a layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of not more than 30 mm. With a thickness of more than 20 mm, a reinforcing mesh is required - a chain-link to prevent the runoff of the uncured mass and subsequent cracking when moisture is lost.

Red brick masonry can have significant differences between individual bars and deep seams, so you will first need to level the walls with plaster - the so-called rough wall finish, which will subsequently serve as the base for leveling plaster for the finish coat.

The most difficult thing to work with is facing bricks, as they have a very smooth (almost glazed) surface. The solution sticks to such a gloss very poorly, it can peel off even when installing a plaster mesh. These grades of materials must be thoroughly impregnated with a special primer composition, maximizing its adhesive capacity.

See how to lay plaster in a thin layer on a pre-opened ground brickwork, you can in this photo:

In the absence of experience with complex surfaces such as facing brick, it is better to invite specialists to plaster with high quality and without subsequent problems in operation.

Concrete

When working with concrete products, there is also a procedure for how to properly level the walls with plaster, depending on the roughness of the base surface.

Concrete bases can be of 2 main types:

• smooth (factory floor slabs, wall panels);
• porous, bumpy (foam concrete products, blocks, monolithic with formwork texture).

A smooth surface can first be passed with a painting hatchet, a chisel and a hammer, a percussion puncher and notches can be made to better fix the mortar on the plane. Then the entire area is treated with penetrating primers containing quartz sand or flour. These materials create a rough layer on the concrete surface, which significantly increases its adhesion and ensures reliable contact of the plaster solution with the wall material.

For factory panels installed without significant distortions, do-it-yourself rough plastering is most likely not required. In performing plaster work on such concrete surfaces, either cement-based mixtures with the addition of a small amount of gypsum, or lime-gypsum compositions are used.

Rough smooth concrete walls are enough to plaster with ordinary cement plaster mortar without the addition of additional components.

The technology used for plastering walls made of foam concrete blocks also includes the need for deep penetration primer treatment. If necessary, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh-serpyanka is fixed along the entire plane of the wall.

If the house is built or insulated inside aerated concrete blocks, then leveling the walls with plaster with your own hands will be easy and fast. The preliminary stage of preparation includes only dedusting, sealing possible cracks and treating the wall with deep penetration primer impregnation. Surfaces of this material can be covered with gypsum plaster, cement and lime mortars.

Surfaces made of poured concrete (expanded concrete blocks), which have large deviations from the horizontal and vertical levels, need a rough base plaster of the walls in the apartment and further leveling of the walls with gypsum plaster for finishing.

The creation of the first draft layer, which aims to level the walls for the plaster of the second layer, is shown in this photo:

By purchasing dry mixes or ready-made compositions (primer, plaster, putty) for self-production full cycle plastering, it is necessary, even before leveling the walls in full, to check their quality and compatibility on a separate small section of the characteristic surface of the room.

Wood

In private houses, some apartments, the outer perimeter and partitions are made of wood. There is a need to learn how to plaster walls made of wood materials so that the plastered area confidently and for a long time stays on such a surface. To firmly fix the solution on the plane, a crate of thin raw laths (shingles) is stuffed. It simultaneously holds a thick solution well and serves as beacons when leveling the mixture on the surface prepared in this way.

To carry out, if necessary, partial repairs in a small area, the old applied plaster is upholstered with wooden planks and is again ready for plastering with lime or gypsum mortars, as in this photo:

A prerequisite for preparation is the impregnation of the wooden wall (before filling the crate) with antiseptic solutions to protect the natural material from the appearance of mold, the spread of pests and insects.

The shingle itself is also subjected to such processing.

If instead of a shingle, a metal mesh is used for reinforcement - a chain-link, then it must be fastened not to the wall plane itself, but to strips of rails, the thickness of which is at least 3 mm.

General points

Regardless of the number of layers that the plaster will have to level the walls, at the end of each stage of applying the material (priming, spraying, roughing, covering, smoothing, puttying), the surface must dry for the time set by the technological requirements. Recommendations for these indicators are applied by the manufacturer on the packaging of the building product.

In case of self-preparation of solutions according to one's own recipe, the average time intervals according to GOSTs are indicated in the reference tables:

Before starting directly plastering work, you need to carefully prepare the surface - clean it from dust, poorly fixed fragments, and old finishing material.

Walls, the construction of which consists of materials of different structure, need a thoughtful individual approach for cleaning and coating solutions.

If there are cracks on the surface, they must be repaired, since the plaster mass may crack later in the same place.

Dry factory mix plaster must be prepared strictly according to the manufacturer's instructions printed on the package.

The calculation of the amount of materials, the use of laser measuring tools, as well as how to level the walls with new plaster with your own hands, step-by-step instructions are presented in this video:

The mixing container must be of sufficient size and no more than 2/3 filled so as not to splash the contents when working with the mixer. The amount and temperature of the added water is strictly observed, since after the solution has matured, it is impossible to dilute the swollen plaster mixture with a thick consistency, too liquid solution will drain from the vertical plane even if there is a grid.

How and with what to plaster the walls?

When performing measures for the overhaul of residential or production premises inevitably there is a need to eliminate irregularities and ensure flatness. Knowing how to plaster walls, you can do the work yourself, while saving financial resources. It is important to choose the right type of mixture, understand the technological subtleties, and learn how to work with the tool. The recommendations given in the material of the article will help to perform the work correctly, ensure the quality of the surface and avoid unforeseen errors.

What kind of plaster is better to plaster the walls

The implementation of finishing activities requires vocational training and needs a qualified selection of materials. It is advisable to entrust the selection of the plaster composition and finishing to specialists. At self-fulfillment it is important to study the events, before mixing the components and plastering the walls, the better it is to perform finishing work.

Depending on the specifics of the work, various types of working mixtures are used for plastering. Consider the types of compositions used:

• sand-cement. It is used when it is necessary to apply plaster in a thick layer on the outer or inner side of buildings. The mixture is made from affordable ingredients that provide increased reliability at an affordable price. finish coating. The preparation process is quite simple. It involves mixing Portland cement with river sand, with the gradual introduction of water to the desired consistency. Depending on the brand of cement, its ratio with sand ranges from 1:2 to 1:5. A feature of the cement-sand composition is a long hardening period, due to which the mixture can be prepared in an increased amount. This makes it easier to finish on larger areas. ready mix can be purchased in specialized stores, then mixed independently according to the recipe indicated on the package;
• gypsum-lime, as well as gypsum-clay with the addition of lime. Used to ensure flatness wooden walls, as well as the implementation of finishing activities from the inside of the premises. The preparation technology involves mixing gypsum and lime in a ratio of 1: 3 with the addition of clay to improve bonding. The gypsum composition is prepared in a separate container with water, into which gypsum is quickly poured and thoroughly mixed. It remains to add dissolved lime - the plaster composition is ready. A feature of the gypsum composition is rapid hardening, reduced thermal conductivity, increased adhesion. Disadvantages include susceptibility to increased moisture concentration and the need to prepare small portions due to accelerated curing. Gypsum plaster hardens for 7 days with a layer thickness of up to 5 cm;

The better to plaster the walls depends on the wallet of the owner of the house, as well as on the characteristics of the room in which repairs are required.

• calcareous. Lime-cement is prepared from cement, lime paste and sand in a ratio of 1:2:7. Sand is mixed with dry cement with the introduction of lime "milk" and the addition of water. Clay-lime is prepared by combining lime dough with clay with the gradual introduction of sand. Clay dough in a liquid consistency, lime mortar and sand are mixed in a ratio of 1:3:5. Sand-and-lime plaster involves the addition of 1 to 5 parts of sand to one part of lime. The consistency of the sand-lime mixture should be pasty. The mixture should slightly stick to the working tool. Using plaster compositions based on lime, it is possible to significantly reduce the concentration of moisture in the room, which contributes to the formation of dampness, as well as to insulate the walls.

The final decision on the better to plaster the walls when performing finishing measures, the developers make individually, depending on the following factors:

• building material;
• humidity level;
• availability of ingredients;
• financial opportunities;
• deadlines for the implementation of activities;
• assigned tasks.

Each of the presented finishing compositions has its advantages and disadvantages, which should be taken into account when solving the problem of choice.

Cement-sand mortar. Can be used for leveling interior and exterior surfaces

How to plaster walls - tools and application rules

Every homeowner wants to have high-quality plastered walls after completing the finishing measures in the room. This is achieved by using a professional tool, following the technology.

Initially, it is necessary to prepare a tool for performing work:

• a medium-hard steel wire brush used to ensure a clean surface;
• gears resembling a chisel with a toothed working part that facilitates the application of grooves to improve adhesion;
• a falcon, which is a square shield with a handle, which is used as a platform for the plaster composition;
• a spatula designed for mixing the plaster composition and applying it to the surface, followed by rubbing;
• a trowel, which is a platform up to 1 m long with a handle, which facilitates leveling the plaster composition;
• a grater used in finishing operations, facilitating grinding and finishing;
• a rule in the form of a lath made of wood or metal up to 2 m long, designed to ensure the flatness of the applied layer;
• plumb or building level, facilitating the control of work in the horizontal and vertical plane.

Everyone can learn to plaster walls, although it will be more difficult for a beginner than a professional plasterer.

After preparing the tool necessary to perform the work, you should study the technological sequence of operations. The standard finishing technology includes the following steps:

1. Preparatory work to ensure the cleanliness of the treated surface and improve adhesion.
2. Installation of guides (beacons), which are a guideline when ensuring flatness.
3. Application of the plaster composition and pre-finishing, forming a clean surface.
4. Removing the guide elements with filling the cavities with cement and preliminary grouting the surface.
5. Finishing, which is carried out on a hardening array and is cyclically performed with radius movements.

Everyone building object has its own characteristics, according to which the developer determines the feasibility of performing certain stages. Let's dwell on the main technological points.

Getting ready to plaster the walls: how to ensure adhesion

Take measures to prepare the surface for plastering according to the following algorithm:

• Inspect and clean the walls with the obligatory removal of plaster residues, sagging, grease stains, fasteners and dirt.

If you find impressive cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, then they must be expanded and then cleaned of existing sand

• Seal cracks in the brick surface and crevices that degrade sound insulation and increase heat loss.
• Treat the work area with a deep penetrating primer that makes it difficult to absorb moisture, providing improved adhesion.
• Complete impact method, using a gear, on a smooth surface, three-millimeter notches, followed by cleaning the wall and moisturizing it.
• Stuff a diagonal crate or chain-link mesh on a wooden base, and, if necessary, reinforce with a plastic mesh.
• Prepare the required amount of working composition for plastering by selecting the appropriate recipe.

After completing the surface preparation, you can start applying the mixture.

Learning to plaster: how to apply the mortar correctly

Carry out the operations for applying the plaster composition, observing the following sequence:

1. Check the readiness of the tool and the consistency of the solution.
2. Lightly dampen the base until moisture is absorbed.
3. Dial a portion of the mixture that fits on the surface of the falcon.
4. Take the solution with a plaster spatula, sketch it.

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   Plastering in a plane (using a rule) is a good option if the walls are relatively flat

   Form a layer 30–40 mm thick on the surface.

   Plan the plastered surface with a trowel.

   Check the flatness with the rule, removing excess mixture.

   Fill the plaster defects with the mixture and level.

   Make a circular grout with a float, making cyclic movements.

   When performing work, pay attention to the following points:

   • the correctness of the sketch with the help of the hand;
   • preventing splashing of the mixture;
   • control of the thickness of the applied composition;
   • layered layout with a trowel;
   • reuse of the solution removed by the rule;
   • sealing small gaps with a spatula.

   How to plaster on lighthouses

   With significant defects in the treated surface, the presence of height differences, it is necessary to carry out plastering measures using beacons, which guarantee the ideal flatness of the plaster.

   

   This method allows you to get an almost flat surface at the exit.

   Can be used as guides:

   • wooden planks, which are nailed to the walls of wood;
   • standard beacons from aluminum alloy or steel fixed with cement.

   Perform work on the installation of beacons according to the following algorithm:

   1. Trim the rails according to the dimensions of the room.
   2. Prepare the walls, clean them of dirt, moisten with water.
   3. Repel the vertical 20 cm from the corner zone of the room.
   4. Mark the areas for installing guides in increments of 50–100 cm.
   5. Prepare a binder solution based on cement or alabaster with a mixer.
   6. Pour small portions of the mixture over the marked areas.
   7. Take the guides, attach to the piles and immerse in cement.
   8. Check the location and ensure a distance of 1.5–2 cm from the wall.
   9. Fix the final position of the beacons with concrete mortar.
   10. Fill the space between the guides with plaster mortar.
   11. Ensure the layer height is a couple of millimeters above the edges of the guides.
   12. Attach the rule, lightly press down and move, removing excess mixture.
   13. Fill in voids and level until flat.
   14. Allow 10-14 days for final hardening.

   After the plaster has dried, you can finish it or apply a finish coat.

   

   How to plaster slopes?

   The most time-consuming and critical stage in the implementation of plastering activities is to ensure the plane of slopes, the formation of corner zones, as well as surface treatment window openings. The use of guides greatly facilitates the plastering process.

   Providing marketable condition slopes, perform operations in compliance with the following recommendations:

   1. Cut the beacons according to the dimensions of the slopes.
   2. Fix the guides in the traditional way.
   3. Fill the junction areas of the ceiling sections and walls with mortar.
   4. Grout the slopes with a trowel.
   5. Eliminate defects, check the thickness of the mortar layer as a rule.

   If you have the appropriate qualifications, you can plaster slopes without using guides - only with the help of a rule. According to the above technology, all internal and external sections are processed at horizontal as well as vertical joints. Please note that measures for finishing slopes from the street side should be carried out only at positive temperatures. After the mortar has hardened, the final grouting is carried out, the correct application of the mixture is controlled.

   Conclusion

   Plastering walls of various materials is a responsible operation that affects the presentation and durability building structures. It is necessary to choose the right composition for finishing work, strictly comply with the requirements of the technology, and also master the rules for working with a special tool. The advice of professionals given in the article will help in the selection of material, as well as in the performance of work.

One of the main types construction works which is used to level the surface. Regardless of whether the walls are plastered from the inside or outside, the technology of work will be approximately the same.

Do-it-yourself plastering is quite possible even without the experience of such work, but it takes time, methodicality and adherence to technology if you want to get a result at the level of professional craftsmen.

Plastered walls are the basis for finishing: whether you will then paint the wall, stick wallpaper, tile or use decorative types of plaster - in any interior solution for final finishing you need a flat surface, which is obtained by plastering.

Types of plasters

Consider the better to plaster the walls. The type of plaster composition depends on the material of the wall and the purpose of the room, it is called by the main binder:

• Cement-sand plaster (TsPSh), despite the abundance of other compositions, remains the most popular, as it is universal. It is indispensable for rough finishing in rooms with wet and damp operating conditions - baths, saunas, laundries, bathrooms, showers and toilets. The solution is kneaded from 1 part of cement and 2.5 ... 4 parts of sand, or ready-made dry building mixtures (CCC) are diluted. TsPSh differs in cheapness, convenience in work as long time drying allows you to correct flaws. Among the shortcomings, we can mention the laboriousness, the possible formation of cracks, and long drying.

• Lime plaster sets faster than TsPSH, can be applied on different surfaces. Prepared from 1 part of lime dough and 3 parts of sand. To strengthen the composition, PVA glue is added. Lime plaster is easy to apply and rub over, it is more plastic than cement plaster, but it can crumble as a result of mechanical damage. Also not expensive.
• The cement-lime composition sets faster and is more plastic than TsPSH, more resistant to mechanical damage than pure lime, and therefore is often used for interior decoration apartments.
• Lime-gypsum composition is used for plastering living rooms, the solution is prepared from 1 part of dry gypsum, which is closed with water to the consistency of batter, and 3 parts of lime mortar. The advantage of the composition is a quick setting, it is also the biggest drawback, as it requires speed when working.

As a filler, pure river or sea sand with different grain fractions is used, for decorative compositions- crushed shell rock or marble chips, quartz sand.

According to the quality of the surface, the following types of plasters are distinguished:

• simple, consisting of two layers - a spray and a covering layer, with a total thickness of 10 mm, is performed in non-residential premises and under tiling;
• improved is carried out in 3–4 layers - spray, primer and coating layers, total thickness 15–20 mm, most often used in residential and office premises;
• high-quality, carried out according to beacons, in 5 layers, 20–30 mm thick, for especially responsible interiors, decorative compositions are often applied as the last layer.

For simple cement-sand plaster, in order to save money, thin-layer plasters from polymer compositions are also performed.

The process of applying plaster on the walls

In order for the plaster to adhere well to the wall, it is necessary to carry out high-quality preparatory work. All finishing work is carried out at positive temperatures (at least 12 ° C), in winter with the heating turned on.

Preparatory work

On the preparatory stage it is necessary to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwork, the type of plaster, the required amount of materials. Further, the purchase of materials, tools, necessary equipment, fixtures and workwear is carried out.

Materials:

• adhesive primer to improve the adhesion of the plaster layer to the base;
• ready-made CCC for mortar or components for mixing;
• putty - for painting and wallpaper;
• beacons for high-quality plaster - metal, plastic or drywall for making yourself;
• perforated corners for corners and slopes;
• cobweb mesh;
• sanding skin.

Instruments:

• bush hammer for hammering irregularities on concrete;
• Master OK;
• trowel;
• falcon;
• trowel;
• rule;
• plumb line, cord;
• maklovitsa;
• building level.

Instrument name	View	Material	Purpose
rule		Lath length from 0.5 to 2 m from metal or wood	Checking the correct application of the solution and leveling the surface
Trowel		Metal or wood plate with handle	Throwing mortar on the wall
Falcon		Analogue of a trowel of a different size	Portion set of solution
Poluterok		Wooden or plastic plate	Smoothing the mixture on the surface
Grater		Wooden or metal plate with handle	Grouting a leveled surface, creating a relief
Scraper		Metal	Surface cleaning
Buchard		metal hammer	Roughening
Maklovitsa		Brush	Primer application
plumb line		Cord, cargo	Definition of vertical
Level		Metal	Definition of vertical and horizontal
square		Metal	Surface leveling
Corner Leveler		Metal, type of grater	Alignment of corners, varieties - for external and internal corners
Putty knife		Metal, plastic, rubber	surface spatula, various sizes and varieties

Technique and fixtures:

• drill with nozzles;
• construction mixer;
• scaffolds for working at height;
• containers for solution and washing tools.

Overalls - goggles, gloves, overalls, shoes.

Surface cleaning

Cleaning old walls consists in cleaning the surface of all compositions - paint and plaster. Training new wall depends on the material (concrete, brick, gas silicate, wood). Cleaning is done mechanically or chemically.

A special chemical solution is used to wash off the paint on a large concrete surface, in individual construction, separate sections are cleaned with scrapers, then the surface is cleaned with brushes with metal teeth and dusted by blowing a vacuum cleaner or washing with water.

Wall preparation

The washed and dried surface is primed with an adhesive solution using or manually, with a brush. Moisturize the wall before spraying.

Surfaces that slightly absorb moisture - drywall, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB are dedusted and primed before plastering to increase adhesion.

Installation of beacons

Performing high-quality plaster is possible without, but it requires a stuffed, confident hand. If you do not have experience, then plastering on lighthouses will give the best result.

Beacons are used from galvanized metal, plastic or own production from moisture resistant drywall. Metal is durable, but can rust, and rust can seep to the surface, leaving red spots.

Plastic ones do not have this drawback, but they are made from expensive material, and therefore this is an expensive pleasure. An economical option is to cut strips of moisture-resistant drywall with an electric jigsaw to the required thickness of the plaster layer, but installing them is more difficult.

Finished beacons are mounted on self-tapping screws, checking the vertical and horizontal levels. is carried out from the left corner of the room, the first fastening is at a distance of 320 cm from the ceiling and the corner of the wall. The second set the beacon on opposite side walls, then pull the cords along the lower and upper faces of the lighthouse and install intermediate cords along them, in increments of 10–15 cm less than the length of the rule.

Solution preparation

Proper preparation of the solution is troublesome, to get the best result there are a few simple rules:

• for a better setting, a little PVA glue can be added to the cement-sand and lime mortar;
• for lime mortar, it is better to use lime dough, since slaking lime on your own is not safe;
• the binder is introduced into the solution in a thin stream with continuous stirring.

Stages of preparing a mixture for plaster

Various manufacturers produce dry mixes in bags different sizes, which eliminate the need for self-screening of sand, measuring out the binder and filler in the required proportion, for example, a rotband from Knauf.

splatter

Spray - the initial layer, obtained by throwing the solution with a trowel on the wall. The solution should lie flat. The wrapped edges of a portion of the spray indicate a lack of water in the solution, flowing down indicates an excess of moisture. Then the applied solution is spread over the surface with a grater.

Spraying is carried out with grabs up to 1 m high and wide, after 20-30 minutes the excess solution is removed by the rule, in zigzag movements based on beacons.

For thin-layer plasters and even surfaces with good adhesion (gas silicate, foam concrete), spraying is not required.

Priming

The primer is the second layer, applied in the same way, but with a layer of no more than 1.5 mm. After 2 hours, the surface is brought to perfect evenness with a trowel, then the wall is moistened with water and smoothed again with a trowel.

Nakryvka

Nakryvka - the finishing layer of plaster, for subsequent cladding or sheathing is not needed. The coating is applied with a layer of 1–2 mm, after the solution has set, the surface is rubbed with a falcon in a circular motion in a run, then vertically and horizontally.

Difficult to remove areas

The corners of the room and the ceiling require special attention. Sections of the walls along the boundaries of adjacent surfaces are plastered last, leveled with a trowel with a right angle or a special tool.

The wall behind the radiator, if there is not enough space to work, can be filled and leveled with a short rule in one run.

After the plaster has matured for 3-4 weeks, depending on the composition used, the final coating is performed - wallpapering, painting, cladding or applying a decorative composition.

Plastering of external walls

For guard external walls from bad weather, plaster has long been used. For plastering external walls, solutions with different binders are used:

• cement;
• acrylic;
• silicone;
• silicate;
• lime.

Previously popular compositions based on clay and lime, the advantage of which was availability and low price, have now practically ceased to be used due to fragility and instability to mechanical damage.

Work is carried out at positive temperatures, including in winter, manufacturers of finished compositions require temperatures above 5 ° C, in the absence of sun, strong wind and precipitation.

Types of facade plaster

There are many types of facade plaster:

• protective;
• adhesive compositions for insulation systems;
• decorative, which is structural, textured, terrazitic.

Formulations can be ready-to-use from dry mixes and building preparation, the latter are more difficult to prepare, and precise dosing of ingredients is required. Solutions can be tinted and not tinted, for subsequent painting with facade paints.

Preparatory work

Preparatory work is similar to work during internal plastering:

• calculation of the need for materials;
• purchase of materials, tools and fixtures;
• wall surface preparation.

We will not dwell on the first two points, they are described above.

Brick wall preparation

Prepare brick wall: clean from mortar residues, dust and dirt, open the masonry seams for better adhesion to the new plaster layer, rinse and prime with adhesive primer.

Instead, jointing for better adhesion, you can fill a notch on the wall or fix a plaster mesh, which is desirable in case of poor masonry preservation.

If plastering of a new wall is provided, then bricklaying should be carried out in a wasteland. Before starting work, clean the wall from dust and dirt, mortar stains and oils, rinse and primer.

How is a concrete wall prepared?

The preparation of even concrete walls, especially factory panels, consists in notching recesses for better adhesion or installing a plaster mesh. Metal is attached to the wall with plates and anchors in checkerboard pattern with a step of 600x600 mm in width and height.

Substrate preparation for lightweight concrete

The laying of walls from cellular blocks - gas silicate, expanded clay, foam block or cinder block is taken out exactly according to the level, and therefore the surface of the walls from large-sized blocks turns out to be even and does not require thick-layer plaster for finishing.

Lightweight concrete is a porous material with excellent adhesion; before plastering, such walls are cleaned of dirt, mortar stains, oils and primed with adhesive primer.

Wood wall preparation

Before plastering, it is necessary to protect the walls from fire and pests, to perform a water-repellent impregnation of the wall with a special compound to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture from the solution.

Then the surface of the walls is protected with kraft paper or special membrane films, on top of which a plaster mesh is fixed with a stapler or wooden shingles crosswise at an angle of 45 °.

Methods for applying plaster

If thin-layer plaster is performed without using a plaster mesh, the work is done in one pass: the prepared mortar is applied to the wall with a trowel, leveled with a trowel and a rule, then we apply the required texture using a plastic trowel. The depth of the texture depends on the size of the sand grains and the force of pressure on the grater, the pattern of the texture depends on the direction of movement of the grater:

• bark beetle requires up and down movements;
• rain is received by movements at an angle;
• lamb give circular movements with a grater;
• performed using a special roller.

Thick-layer plasters are applied to the wall in the same way as for interior work.

Wall insulation with plaster systems

For fixing insulation boards made of polystyrene foam (polystyrene), extruded polystyrene foam (foam) or mineral plates, cement-based adhesives with plasticizing additives are used.

Work order:

1. Insulation plates are attached to the prepared surface with a fixed starting profile using an adhesive composition.
2. After the mixture has hardened, the plates are additionally shot with dowel screws.
3. On the surface of the plates with a layer of 3–4 mm, the same adhesive composition, into which a reinforcing mesh is embedded with a spatula.
4. The wall is re-plastered.
5. Perform the finishing coat decorative plaster or coloration.

How to plaster slopes

Slopes have some expansion, obtuse angles of slopes form wooden lath the right size or special beacons. To get an even obtuse angle between the wall and the slope it is better to use a special metal tool - a kind of falcon.

Painting

Both exterior and interior walls are often painted with paint as a finishing touch. For outdoor use, frost-resistant paint is used that is resistant to UV radiation and bad weather with a durability of at least 10 years. For outdoor decoration, it is undesirable to use bright colors and saturated shades of blue, since this pigment fades most quickly under sunlight.

Painting is carried out manually or mechanized - with an airbrush. Mechanized painting gives the best result - lie down more evenly, consumption is less.

Interior painting is done in the same way.

Approximate prices for plastering work

Prices plastering work depends on the type and quality wall material, the composition of the solution, the type of plaster, the method of application and the class of the performer.

Average prices in Moscow for plaster (in rubles / m2):

• layer up to 30 mm - 380;
• layer over 30 mm - 420;
• slopes in m / n - 440;
• decorative plaster - from 620;
• Venetian plaster (first layer) - from 1320, (second layer) - from 540.

Above this price, high-class specialists ask, prices below - should alert.

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself plastering requires a steady hand, time and consistency. There is nothing supernatural in the work, but if you doubt your abilities, it is better to hire professionals.