Cove the floor from the fiberboard. Laying fiberboard on the floor

What is the Fiberboard and which types of plates exist, pros and cons of the material, features of use and the rule of choice, wood installation technology on the floor with wooden Lag., glue and mastic.

Description and types of dvp for sex

Wood-fibrous plates (Fiberboard) is a leaf building material. The facial side of the product is smooth, invented with a mesh structure.

Raw materials for the production of DVP are waste from sawmill and tree treatments, wood wood, as well as technological chips. After it is stepping and grinding, fibers are formed, which are fragments of wood tissue, individual cells, cell groups. Fiberboard is obtained from such a wood fiber, which is formed in the form of a carpet.

Fiberboard can be of different density. For this criterion, the plates are divided into such groups:

• Soft fiberg. Their density is not higher than 350 kg per meter cubic. Such plates have high porosity, low density and suitable for insulation works, floor insulation, walls. They have low sound and heat resistance. They are divided into three types: M-1, M-2 and M-3.
• Semi-solid dvp.. Have a density of at least 850 kg per cubic meter. They are used in the manufacture of the rear walls of furniture, drawers.
• Solid Fibergis. Their density is 800-1000 kg per meter cubic. Have low porosity and are used in the production of shield doors, furniture. There are such types: T, T-C, T-P, T-SP.
• Superhard fiberboard. They have a density of at least 950 kg per cubic meter. Their level of porosity is very low. Used in construction and finishing works, creating partitions, floors, in the manufacture of furniture, doors, temporary buildings. Have a smooth front side, covered with paint, varnish or primer. In addition, the initial materials in the production of such plates are treated with a penny, increasing Fiberboard strength by 20%.

Walp sheets have standard factory sizes. The length is from 1220 to 3000 millimeters. Width - 1220-1700 millimeters. Such sheets are quite uncomfortable manually transported, so you will need a cargo taxi service or a trailer machine.

As for the thickness, this indicator may vary from 2.5 to 40 millimeters, depending on the type of plate and its density. Fiberboard most often happens to thickness 8, 12, 16 and 25 millimeters. These are plates of medium and low density, which are usually not used for finishing works. Semi-solid plates are thicknesses 6, 8 and 12 millimeters. Solid, as well as superhard DVPs produce 2.5, 3.2, 4.5, 6 millimeters thick. Such materials can be facing walls and gender.

Advantages and disadvantages of flooring from DVP

Often, the fiberboard is used as a stacked material for roughing. They are suitable for mounting almost all surfaces. Be observed certain rulesYou can easily fix the sheets even on the old coating.

Laying fiberboard on the floor has many advantages:

1. Low price of this building material. This species is Chernova outdoor coating - Budget, and the cost of installation work is minimal.
2. No labor-intensive work - the process of laying the plates is very simple. Some problems may occur when installing the lag, but for avoiding them you need to carefully calculate the layout chart on the floor.
3. Absolute environmental friendliness plates. Based on sheets natural wood. Therefore, they can be used when creating an outdoor coating in bedrooms, children's and gaming rooms.
4. The strength and durability of DVP, subject to the use of plates of appropriate density loads. However, such a coating should not be subjected to strong loads and prevent direct exposure to it on it.

The disadvantages of this building material include the following:

• Low fire resistance. With the slightest interaction with fire, the coating will quickly light up.
• Relatively low wear resistance. To strengthen over the plates, the finish coating is applied so that they wear out so quickly and rubbed. In addition finish finish Add the flooring of aesthetics.
• Low level of moisture resistance. WHP sheets transfer the impact of moisture better than, for example, chipboard, but, nevertheless, it is not recommended to install them in the bathroom or in the kitchen, because so the coating is quickly deformed. For decoration in such premises, it is better to use aquapanel, dryard or moisture-resistant faeer.

Features of the use of wood plates

DVP is not recommended to lay in rooms, where water can fall on the board, aggressive chemical exercises. But today, thanks to the development of technologies, the operational qualities of these plates are improved, which helps to significantly expand the scope of the use of material.

Modern Fiberboard on the floor has excellent performance, but it is worth noting small restrictions when installing indoors:

1. You can lay in dry rooms with a small level of humidity (no more than 60%) and temperature indicators more than +10 degrees.
2. The plates can not be put on the floor indoors, where a large power load will be provided for them, for example, in stores or in warehouses. In mechanical exposure, such an outdoor coating will quickly collapse.
3. Wood slabs are practically not used as a fingerboard, but for roughing it is excellent. Floor coating DVP is the ideal base for laying parquet, laminate. Also using these plates can be aligned or insulated the floor.

Remember the safety of the use of plates: if you have purchased them more than twenty years ago, and before that they were kept in an unbelievable place, the material can be dangerous. Previously, the technology of manufacturing sheets DVP was different. In order for fibers in the boards, unsafe funds were used. Such plates install in a residential building can not!

How to choose the focus for the floor

To buy high-quality material, you need to know several main plates selection criteria:

• Be sure to explore the certificate of fiberboard for harmful components. Some manufacturers to improve density and moisture resistance indicators are added to the stoves (or rather in their fiber) hazardous components, such as formaldehyde. The presence of this substance suggests that the material is not intended for laying in residential premises. It is extremely dangerous! To determine to the eye whether this component is in the panels, it is almost impossible. Therefore, ask the consultant documents for building materials. They should be clearly indicated that the fiberboard has passed sanitary and epidemiological control. When buying, stop your choice on verified manufacturers.
• Carefully inspect each tree panel, it should not be visible production or transport damage and marriage. Production defects include spots of oil or paraffin, bloating and bubbles on the coating of boards. The only drawback that is allowed on the sheets of DVP is a small stain size of no more than two centimeters. Remember that in combination with oil or paraffin stains of the panels become easily flammable.
• Note special attention on the technical specifications Material and labeling sheets. To be able to exploit it for a long time, thickness and density are important. wood slabs. Also important is the level of moisture resistance. All Fiberboard should be selected according to technical indicators, based on what room you will lay them.

Montage technology DVP on lags

If you put the wood plates on the lags, the floor will be warmer than when working with screeds. Also, working with such a type of flooring, traces of fastening Fiberboard to lags will be practically not visible.

Preparatory work before laying fiberboard

Before you get the DVP on the floor, you need to spend some preparatory work According to such a scheme:

1. As soon as you brought the panels to the room, moisten them with a small amount of water, fold on each other. To the installation you can start the next day. Thus, you will save the material from possible deformation.
2. Next, if necessary, dismantle the old coating and plinths. All paint should be removed from the floor, removed all the garbage.
3. The resulting gaps between the coating and the wall fill with mounting foam. After it freezes, the protruding residues cut.
4. Also, the slots can be sealing with a putty for mobile bases.
5. We study the old flooring for the presence of fungus or mold, if necessary, we replace these places, as they do not have to remain under new panels. After replacing the damaged areas, the surface is treated with a fungicidal primer or a special antiseptic solution for wooden materials.

Installing lags on the floor

With the help of lags, it is possible to correct a small curvature of the floor, to align its differences, slopes or irregularities. Previously, they are recommended to treat special compositions that will protect them from pests, fungi and rotting.

It is necessary to fix them according to such a scheme:

• Dry and smooth bars with a thickness of about 30-50 millimeters set to the main coating in a step of about 50 centimeters.
• All lags should be located strictly horizontally. You can check their evenness using building level or long line.
• As a collection of lags, we use special lock nuts from zinc, which will not let fasteners freely shift on the thread. Thanks to these devices, the nuts will not be unwound and overwhelm the entire design. The locknut itself should be a little delved into the structure of the wood.
• Bars fix on old coating, and where wooden boards There are no, under the lags lay the segments of the bar or pieces of wood.

Rules for fastening fiberboard on lags

Installation of plates on the lags is recommended to start with an angle, which is the opposite of the entrance to the room. Before laying the fiberboard to the floor, read the work scheme:

1. Fiberboard is attached to lags by screwing, screws or nails. The step is around a centimeter along the edge and a half centimeter in the center.
2. Do not forget to leave between the wall and the coating of 5-10 millimeters on the thermal expansion. In the future it will be possible to close the plinth.
3. Stove seams must be condensed on bars.
4. The following series of material should fit tightly, leaving a small clearance to a maximum of two or three millimeters.
5. Similarly, all subsequent panels are stacked.

When installing the Fiberboard, their trimming will be needed. Make it simply using a hacksaw, a jigsaw, a hand saw. To get holes in a sheet for a pipe, you can apply a conventional sharp knife. If you need a more complex cutting, then it is recommended to pre-make a cardboard pattern and cut it off on it.

Technology laying fiberboard on glue

You can install wood plates on the pre-aligned surface of the base with the help of glue. Preparatory stage In this case, it is identical to the one that preceded the fastening of the Fiberboard to the lags.

We work according to the instructions:

• The glue is applied to the entire surface of the material, it must be well and evenly distributed, without spreading.
• We give sheets for about 30-40 for drying.
• The adhesive composition is also applied to the preloaded and well-dried surface of the base.
• The sheet is pressed in a horizontal position.
• The following product is tightly pressed to the previous one.
• Be sure to check each fixed sheet on evenness and horizontality using a level.

Note! Putting the next row of DVP, you need to displace the joints of the plates of 40-50 centimeters relative to the previous row. So you give the floor more strength, and the load will be uniformly distributed.

Fiberboard fixation technology with mastic

Installation of plates on a concrete screed is much easier than lagows. But the main thing is, this laying must be carried out on an ideally level surface. If the base with small irregularities, they must be aligned with a cement solution. For laying on concrete floor, durable and thick fiberboard are used. Also in the paper will need a mastic.

Installation carry out according to such a scheme:

1. Thoroughly ground the surface of the screed.
2. For half an hour before the start of the installation process, we applied cold mastic on the lower side of the wood plates and leave them aside.
3. We cultivate the entire surface of the screed with mastic. The thickness of the composition should not be greater than 0.6 mm.
4. Hot mastic is applied immediately before fixing so that she does not have time to cool. The layer of means is not more than one millimeter, spread it over the surface of the sheet and screed using a rubber comb.
5. The final stage of installation - it is necessary to firmly press the fiberboard to the base.

Features of the finishing of the floor covering from the fiberboard

The final treatment of the floor from the fiberboard helps increase the service life of the plates. The main thing is to carefully prepare the surface so that it is perfectly smooth and smooth, since it will be impossible to correct defects after painting.

We work on such instructions:

• Clean the floor from the remnants of glue or primer.
• All gaps between the panels close with a putty or reinforcing tape.
• Thoroughly rub the shallow sandpaper all the seams.
• If there are stains, they are processed by a degreaser.
• All dust from the surface remove with a vacuum cleaner.
• Cover the plates with paint or varnish in two layers. We apply with kraskopultum, roller or brush.

How to put a fiberboard on the floor - look at the video:

Through wood plates, you can collect high-quality flooring with a minimum of effort. Before aligning the floor DVP, you need to carefully study specifications Plate and choose suitable material For repaired premises, and then it remains to comply with the technology of installation work.

June 1, 2016
Specialization: Master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, finishing of facades, installation of electricians, plumbing and heating - for all types of work I can give detailed consultation.

Among the many developers there is an erroneous opinion that Linoleum Laying on Feds is not the most the best way, Say, the surface is deformed through short term. In fact, if the styling is made according to the technology, then such a reason will serve you not one dozen years. In the review, I will cut the workflow in detail, and if you do all the recommendations, the result will be excellent.

Description of the workflow

Tell me what you need when working, how to choose best Material And from what stages is the Fiberboard location on different types of surfaces. Everything is quite simple, the main thing is to understand all the nuances and not to allow the mistakes that most developers do.

Preliminary stage

At this stage, you need to perform the following actions.:

• First of all it is necessary to carry out measurements, to determine required amount material. It is important to do it not on the eye, otherwise it may be that you did not have enough 1-2 sheets or, on the contrary, there are several elements left and they just have nowhere. Best to do sample plan each room, so you can make a layout of sheets, it will allow them to be placed so as to minimize the amount of waste;

• As for the fiberboard, the material is made of chopped wood with the addition of natural adhesive compositions: paraffin, rosin - it provides environmental safety material, it can be used in rooms with the highest hygiene and safety requirements;

With all its merits, the DVP has one big drawback - the plates are afraid of moisture.
Therefore, use this option to prepare the surface under linoleum indoors with high humidity Not recommended.

• The thickness of the material ranges from 2.5 to 6 mm. If there is a choice, then it is better to purchase an option with a maximum thickness, since the Fiberboard has high thermal insulating and sound insulation properties and use fine options inexpedient. In addition, the rigidity of the elements is also important, and it also depends on the thickness, the minimum allowable indicator is 3.2 mm;
• As for the size of the sheets, they can vary, the width can be from 100 to 180 cm, and the length is from 120 to 274.5 cm. When choosing a specific option, use a simple rule - the more, the better: the fewer the seams on the surface, the more reliable and the easier for you to spend work;

• You must decide how the chipboard is mounted, there are three options here - glue composition, nails or screws. Choice concrete solution depends on the type of base and your preferences, below we will tell about all methods of fastening and affect their advantages and disadvantages;
• As for the tool, you will need a hard construction knife and a metal line of 1 meter for cutting, so that when cutting the line, it turned out perfectly smooth.

The price depends on the size of the sheet, so the option 2140x1220 3.2 mm will cost 140-180 rubles, the plate size 2745x1700 will cost 360-420 rubles. As you can see, the solution is quite budget.

Preparation of the foundation

From this stage directly depends on how much Fiberboard will fall, therefore it is important to carry out work qualitatively, the process consists of a number of actions.

Let's start considering this type of base as a wooden floor, the process here is as follows:

• First of all, it is necessary to free the room from all items, then you need to remove dust and dirt from the surface and to take careful inspection for damage and slots between the floorboards. Special attention is paid to the hats of nails and self-tapping screws, if they stick out, they must be dried into the surface, otherwise you later get a plurality of flaws on the surface of the Fiberboard;
• Next, you need to check the floor plane level, very often elements have a semicircular shape. If such a deficiency is detected, then you will have to grind the surface. If the problems are insignificant, then you can do the electrrubank or grinding machinebut if you need to remove significant irregularities, it is better to use the cyclical;

• After the alignment is over, you can proceed to seal cracks, damage and recesses from nails and self-tapping hats. It uses either a special putty on wood, or an acrylic sealant, this composition is great for sealing the slots, it has good adhesion and perfectly grinding;

• When the putty dry, the surface grinding is performed, after which you need to remove the garbage and spend wet cleaningTo remove even small particles from the surface.

Concerning concrete groundsThe preparation has its differences:

• Initially, it is necessary to free the room, after which the whole garbage is removed from the surface and wet cleaning is carried out;
• Then the rule is taken and the plane is checked for curvature and drop drops. If any, then they need to close cement mortarif irregularities are significant, it is easier to use a self-deed composition;

If you work with a solution on cement basedKeep in mind that it needs for at least 2 weeks for a set of strength, so pre-training is better to spend in advance.

• After all the work, you need to hold a wet cleaning to remove all dust and dirt. After that, the base is processed by a hydrophobic primer, it strengthens the surface and creates a reliable barrier for the penetration of moisture. Works can be continued after complete drying of the composition.

Laying dvp.

To qualitatively, to put the fiberboard on the floor under linoleum, it is necessary to comply with a number of conditions:

• Most importantly, what should be remembered - the Fiberboard very badly tolerate moisture, so you need to take care of the protection of the material, it is best to pre-treat the surface. For work, a olive is used, which perfectly protects the material, its application will not cause difficulties - the work is performed by a conventional brush;

• After processing, it is necessary to dry off the sheets, then you need to add them indoors in a stack so that they are aligned as much as possible. If necessary, you can put weightlifiers, so that the elements have become perfectly smooth under their impact, it will simplify the workflow and make the end result much better;
• If the humidity is small in the room, then you can not carry out the processing of the olifa, but you need to align the elements. For this, the WHP is processed with water, after which the sheets are put in a smoked side to each other and so fit into the stack. After two days, you can start working on laying.

As for the workflow, it is made differently depending on the type of base, start with this option as a concrete screed:

• First of all, you need to apply special glue to the surface for fixing the Fiberboard on the surface, if the bitumen was used earlier for these purposes, then in our time there are many compositions that are very well suited for these purposes. As an option, you can use bilateral scotch, it fits the elements well and at the same time, if necessary, remove sheets is much simpler;

• Next is neatly placed and pressed the sheet, do not forget that the material we considers has an extension property, so a gap of 5-7 mm should be left between tree fiber plates and the wall;
• Work begins with far from the input of the angle of the room, all the whole sheets are first fit, and then you need to attach an extreme element that neatly applied to the surface to determine the cutting line. After that, with the help of a metal line and a durable construction knife, DVP is cut and rehearsed;

• After the adhesive composition is dry, you can proceed to the processing of the joints, if there are irregularities in their place, then they need to be removed by grinding. After that, the dust is removed from the surface, and the seams are closed with a putty on a tree or acrylic sealant. When the surface dries, the final grinding is carried out, after which you need to thoroughly spend the surface before laying linoleum.

Now we will deal with how to fix the Fiberboard on.

The instructions for conducting work looks like this:

• As for the alignment, the process is described above, therefore it does not make sense in detail. It is worth noting that if you do not want to wipe sheets, it is better to bring them to the room and folded into a stack at least a week before the start of work, during this time the material is acclimatized and leveled;
• The method of fastening is only two - the use of nails 16-25 mm long or the use of screws 3x20 or 3-25. You choose that option that is more convenient for you, but it is worth noting that working with nails is much faster and easier, so it is most often the nail method of fixing Fiberboard is used;
• The work is carried out like this: In the old corner, the plate with incisions of 5-7 mm from the walls are stacked, after which the mount is carried out. Nails are clogged in increments of 100 mm at the edges and 150 mm in the places of the sheets of sheets to each other. Self-tapping screws are located with a step of 150 mm around the perimeter and 200 mm by adjoining;

When fastening, special attention is paid to the fastener's caps in the surface, or were slightly recessed into it, otherwise after laying a linoleum sticking caps will appeal.

• The cutting is made as described above, if there are protruding areas around the perimeter, then in the sheets of the Fiberboard, the necessary configurations are made. Remember the simple rule: if the laying interferes with the platband, then it is necessary to cut it, and not a fibrous plate. All recommendations are collected in the scheme below so that you are even easier to figure out in the process;

• All protruding areas are grained by Bru with sandpaper, after which the surface is cleaned of dust and put off, the less irregularities, the better the linoleum will lie, remember this. After drying the putty, it also grinds, on this work can be considered successfully completed.

It is worth noting that Linoleum laying on the chipboard is made in a similar way. The only difference is that the chickens are much thicker and harder and cutting it better knife or electric saw.

Recommendations for laying linoleum on the basis of the Fiberboard

We'll figure it out how to put the linoleum on the prepared grounds, this process is simple, so you can easily handle it with your own hands. We will look at the three main ways to conduct work:

Without fastening the material	If the area is less than 12 square meters, then the linoleum can not be fixed on the floor surface. In this case, you need to cut the cloth on the room configuration and gently lay it. Fixation is made at the expense of plinths, which are located around the perimeter, and the metal melting, which is attached to doorway, it is these elements that must press the material and not to give it to move.
Using bilateral scotch	This option appeared relatively recently, but has already gained great popularity due to the simplicity of the workflow and high-quality fixation of the material on the surface. The work is done like this: first the tape is glued across the area in the form of a lattice in a step of 30-50 centimeters, the top protective layer It does not remove. After the upper protective tape is removed from one edge at a distance of about 50 cm, linoleum is stacked and so on
Adhesive fastening method	A classic solution that involves the use of special adhesive composition. This option is used in rooms with an area of \u200b\u200bover 20 m.kv, its essence is simple: you smear a portion of the surface with adhesive composition, after which the linoleum is gently pressed. Work is made gradually - the surface is lubricated, the roll is unwound and so to the end of the room

As for the connection on the seams in the Besleless method, it is easiest to glit on the base of two-way tape, it will reliably fix the connection, and you do not have to acquire the glue composition. From above the metal plank is attached, which protects the joint and additionally fixes it.

Output

Fiberboard is great for preparing the base under linoleum, it is important to choose high-quality material and properly conduct work on its laying. The video in this article will clearly show the workflow, and if something is unclear, then ask questions in the comments under the article.

Fiberboard (fibreboard) is the most affordable and popular sheet material. It is actively used in repair and construction work, as well as in the fields of the national economy. Fiberboard is very often made on the floor, as a base or a final version.

To save costs for such a construction or repair, the home masters perform all the work independently, without attracting expensive specialists. Laying fiberboard on the wooden floor is relative simple procedurewhich can be done with your own hands.

Preparatory work

Before any repair and construction work requires a kind of preparation. It concerns and flooring. The first condition is the same humidity of sheets with the surrounding environment. If it is not taken into account, they immediately after the flooring deform.

In the case of flooring sheets in the room, which is heated irregularly, it is necessary to moisten sheets on the reverse side with warm water. After that, lay down to each other with the back side and leave to dry for a day. With flooring indoors with regular heating, the sheets are put on the edge and are in this position.

Such a floor can be laid out on a screed of sand and cement, but a more popular option is to lay fiberboard on the wooden floor.

Laying dvp.

A day or two, depending on the type of room, the sheets are stacked on the wooden floor with a small ventilation gap. Laying the first sheet is made in the corner of the room and is fixed to the base with nails. On the edge line, the step should be 10 cm with parallel rows of 15 cm.

Subsequent sheets are fixed to the floor accordingly. Previously, they should be carefully docked, not allowing the gap between sheets of more than 2-3 mm. In the process of installation, it is also necessary to observe fire safety. Where the sheets of fiberboard come into contact with vertical pipes heating system, It is necessary to leave the gaps. These places are poured with a special solution of sand and cement. When heating up to 80 degrees, the gap can be 1-2 cm if a more thorough degree of heating is planned - cementing should be up to 5 cm of the gap.

The last leaf in the row is fixed to the floor, taking into account its reign under the remaining area and the curvature of the wall. Excess parts of the Fiberboard can be sprinkled with a jigsaw or cutter, pre-decisive them.

The next row is laid out, as well as the first, but now with a fit for already existing wood fiber plates. When installing near the doorway, it will be easier to cut a little platband than the leaf itself. This will not only give a greater aesthetic surface, but also will retain the integrity of the floor covering.

The popularity of the plates of the fiberboard is due to the simplicity of their installation, so having studied all the nuances, you can also start work.

Laying of tree fiber plates (Fiberboard) on the floor

Warm plates (Fiberboard) - popular finishing materialused in many areas of construction and repair of premises. Very often, the Fiberboard is used to mount the rough floor. It is noteworthy that they can be stacked almost on any surface. The main thing is to be respected by some conditions, and then these sheets can be resolved even on old coatings. In this article, we just consider the entire process of laying fiberboard to the floor with your own hands.

• Price: First of all, what is the difference between the draft floors from the fiberboard from other options - this is the cost of materials and installation work. Such an outdoor coating is one of the most budget.
• Work intensity: the installation process itself is fairly simple. Some difficulties may arise when creating lag for the floor: they must be accurately placed over the entire surface. But all this we will look at the following.
• Ecology: Fiberboard is based on wood - natural material - Therefore, it can be used to finish the floor in residential premises.
• Strength: the draft floor from this material will be quite strong and durable, unless, of course, it is not subjected to excessive loads and protect against direct exposure to water.

Disadvantages of floors

• Ecology: This item concerns those plates that were purchased more than 20 years ago and kept you somewhere in the garage. Previously, the manufacturer's technology was different, in particular for gluing fibers of the material, not completely safe substances were used. Therefore, such plates use for flooring at home is not recommended.
• Moisture resistance: despite the fact that the Fiberboard plates are much better tolerant of water exposure than sheets of chipboard or GLK, however, they are better not to lay in rooms with high humidity. Otherwise, the likelihood of deformation of the coating is large. In such rooms, it is preferable to lay the plates of the aquapanel, gypsum fiber or moisture-resistant plywood.
• Fire resistance: such a floor covering during a fire will flame quickly.
• Wear resistance: as a rule, on top of the Fiberboard it is necessary to apply the finish floor covering, otherwise their surface will be quickly wear out, swaying. Yes, and the material itself does not differ in some particular appearance.

Floor Mounting Technology

1. Preparatory work

Fiberboard plates are used to equalize the surface having small levels of levels (up to 1 cm). If the base of the floor has more significant irregularities, they must be either eliminated (for example, the fill of the leveling mixture), or to fill the Fiberboard to lags.

In any case, start all the work is necessary from the inspection of the floor surface. If it has such damage such as mold or fungus, they need to be eliminated using a special antiseptic primer.

Next, check the old floor covering. If it is in a decent state, that is, the boards on the floor do not creak, the surface does not have large drops, and the coating itself has whole viewthen the Fiberboard can be laid right on the old finish, without removing it. Otherwise, the floor is cleaned from all unnecessary, up to the base.

Further work will depend on the choice of the method of installation of the Fiber Plays. If they are laid on the glue, the surface of the floor base must be thoroughly brew and wait until it dry (6-8 hours). If old lags are already on the floor, they only need to examine and, if necessary, repaired (link).

Well, if you decide to make lags from scratch, then go to the next item.

2. Installation of lag for floor from Feds

In essence, the lags for any sheets of wood are stacked in a similar way. For the beginning, the size of the Fiberboard sheets used is determined, after which the lag installation is marked on the entire floor surface.

As a rule, as a material for the device, the lag is taken wooden barswhich are attached directly to the base. To put them in one level, you can use various lining, for example, from chipboard. About what size to take bars than to secure them to the floor, and what a surface markup should be, you can learn from the article "Installing Lag for Paul".

After everything is mounted, you can start the flooring of the Fiberboard.

3. Laying fiberboard on the floor

To create a draft floor it is worth using plates with a thickness of at least 6 mm. Before starting the installation, all the material must be left for 48 hours indoors. And for better acclimatization of fiberboard, their backsight can be mixed with warm water, but in small quantities (not more than 0.7 liters per 1 m2). For these purposes, you can use a conventional brush.

Before starting to lay fiberboard on the floor, a number of recommendations should be read:

• First, start the installation is best with the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.
• Secondly, when laying sheets, it is necessary to leave the gaps of 5-10 mm from the walls. This is required to form a "temperature" seam. Subsequently, it can be closed with floor plinth.

3.1. Method 1: Filling DVP on Laggers

First, the sheet is placed on the lags and is aligned so that all the edges accounted for the middle of the bars. After that, the fiberboard is fixed to lags with nails, screws or screws on a tree with a length of about 30-40 mm and a diameter of 2.5-3.0 mm. At the same time, the fastener step should be 80-100 mm along the edges of the sheet, and 120-150 mm in the central part.

The next plate is also aligned first, then snugs closely with the first, and after being nailed to lags. Seam between sheets should turn out no more than 2 mm. In the same way, the whole range of fiberboard is mounted.

When laying next row The Fiberboard needs to make the displacement of the sheets of sheets in 30-40 cm relative to the previous row. This will give greater strength to the entire floor, and will allow you to more evenly distribute the load.

During the installation of the plates, it will necessarily be necessary in their trimming. This is done quite just with the help of hacksaw, jigsaw or hand saw. To create holes in the fiberboard, for example, under the pipes, cuts can be made by a conventional sharp knife. For a more complex cutting, you can first make a template from cardboard or paper, and then it is already cut on it.

3.2. Method 2: Filling Fiberboard for glue

A glue can be used as fasteners to the base of the floor. It is applied and smoothed over the entire surface of the sheet, after which the slab must be left for 20-30 minutes. To ensure greater strength of the coating, the adhesive should also be applied to the preloaded base base.

Next, the sheet is fastened to the surface, after which it presses the cloth. After laying each Fiberboard, the slab must not forget to check its horizontal and evenness. Flooring two adjacent rows, and the cropping of the extreme sheets is carried out in the same way as p. 3.1.

4. Final work

The finishing floor treatment of the Fiberboard is as follows. First you need to carefully examine all the seams: the remnants of the adopted adhesive should be removed with a cloth, and in those places where the gap between the sheets was too large (more than 2-3 mm), it should be embedded with putty. To increase the strength of the connection of the plates, their joints can be sampled by the reinforcing ribbon.

Next, it can be followed by grinding and (or) primer surface of the rough floor surface, but these operations are not mandatory. Everything will depend mainly on the finish coating that you are going to apply over the Fiberboard. And it can be painting, and laying parquet or laminate, and flooring linoleum or carpet, and many other options that you can find out on the pages of our site.

On this, all the work on the installation of fiberboard on the floor is handicapped with their own hands.

DVP on the wooden floor: the choice and technology of mounting

Main features of DVP
Fastening
Waterproofing
Concrete floor
Wooden floor mount
Preparation for laying
Installation

The practice of laying a linoleum on the fiberboard is no longer the first decade. Such a solution is particularly attractive, as it is the most optimal way of equalizing surface irregularities. Today there are other methods, but so far many are interested in how to properly put the linoleum on the fiberboard.

One of the main requirements for laying a linoleum is an even base.

It is for this that fibrillers are used, but they are also one of the additions to the insulation of the floor in private houses. Also, the solution also shows the solution on the first floors of high-rise buildings, where many placed fiberboard on the floor under linoleum.

Main features of DVP

Before you know how to string a linoleum on the fiberboard should learn a couple of features this materialthat will help you better understand the process:

• For the manufacture of DVP, crushed wood, paraffin, rosin.
• In comparison with the chipboard or chipboard, the material is much more durable, but at the same time heifies in strength.
• The production of the Fiberboard is carried out in plates with a length of 1.2-2.7 m, 1-1.8 m wide and a thickness of 2.5 to 6 mm.
• Laying DVP under the linoleum on the concrete floor is one of the most durable options, but analogs based on a chipboard will cost cheaper.

It will be reasonably chosen to work the most available sizes. In this case, the joints between them will be the minimum quantity, and this in turn will turn into an increase in the strength and reliability of the floor covering.

A couple of words about an alternative. The chipboard is also perfectly handled, its ends can always be engaged, and it is just perfect for the leg and cutting. Important moment: In the case of chipboard, you should use precisely.

It is used in this case a shoemaker, and as a support - a metal line or wooden rail. This allows you to get the most flat line.

Fastening

Today, many use special glue for linoleum on Feds (in stores you can find huge range how to glue the linoleum to fiberboard), however it will be much easier to nail the material to wooden semi Using conventional minor carnations by 15 mm.

Installation is quite simple and hard to make difficulties even in non-professional.

Waterproofing

One of the most important points in laying fibrous plates is high-quality waterproofing. because of characteristic features Material often brends from contact with moisture. A sufficiently small flood, so that half a year the floor was noticeable. In order to avoid similar trouble and uses waterproofing. It should be thoroughly dry by the floor after each stage of the work, the material must be profiled, and under the sheets of the Fiberboard laying polyethylene.

In the latter case, the laying is carried out with an overlap at 5-10 cm.

Upon completion of the process, it should be given an abnormal material to fly out. It should be done about 4 days - during this time the sheets must be fully aligned.

Upon completion of the procedure, you can proceed to their direct mount. Depending on the basis of the floor, the procedure has its own nuances.

Concrete floor

For fastening used boiled olif or tar. The first option is of greater speed, but later problems may occur, since it is necessary to remove the alley that sticks to the floor is quite problematic.

Alternatively, DVP under the linoleum on the concrete floor can be attached and with the help of dowels.

This approach has an obvious advantage - if necessary, dismantling will be simple.

However, with this approach, additional irregularities will be created on the plates, which ultimately appear on linoleum. To avoid this, it should be done in advance in the Fiberboard a small deepening, which will fit the dowel head.

Orthodoxy is additionally close to putty.

Wooden floor mount

Before starting the laying of DVP under the linoleum on the wooden floor, it should be prepared to prepare it - make alignment. All the bugs need to be treated with a planer, and the yamki fill with putty.

To the base of the plate are fastened with the help of self-samples or nails.

Preparation for laying

Now that the flooring is ready, you can prepare for the direct laying of the Fiberboard on the floor under the linoleum.

Very important once again Make sure that sheets of sheets are not bored anywhere - otherwise irregularities should be eliminated - sandpaper or putty. Today on the Internet you can find great amount Photos of such work, so that difficulties will not be as follows. Also: "How to make flooring under linoleum - the optimal way."

Specialists recommend slightly moisten the plates before the start of the process. The calculation of water is 0.5 liters per square. m., This should be done with the help of an ordinary painting brush. Upon completion, it will remain to fold the sheets in pairwise wet sides inside, and after leaving them indoors for 48 hours.

Installation

Despite the seeming simplicity of the operation, there are a number of nuances:

• Works should be started from the angle, the gap between the fiberboard and the wall is made equal to the gap between the coating and the wall.
• Sick the nails or screw the screws follows the step of about 10 cm along the edge. Between the rows, the interval must be 15 cm.
• Each next plate DVP under linoleum is stacked.
• Plates should be gripped tightly. The only exception becomes the penultimate in a row, which is nailed after the last.
• Before to stick last pageOne should first spend along the edge of the line with the help of drying, which will allow you to designate the desired clearance.

  Laying fiberboard on the floor

  Superior is cut with a knife, and the slab is mounted.

• The ranks are joined with each other by the "brickwork" method.

Finally

As you can see from all of the foregoing - to independently prepare the floor to laying the linoleum of special problems. There may not even be the most experienced person with this business, but even a newcomer, just follow the instructions only. Another question is how to put the linoleum on the Fiberboard, but this is a topic for a different material.

One of best ways Align the wooden floor - it is fiber on it. In this article we will tell you how to do it right, and what is DVP.

Brief information about the fibrous plate

The idea of \u200b\u200busing chips remaining after sawing wood has long been used.

Already in 1858, the first patent for the production of tree fiber plates was reached, and six years later, the technology was improved, and modern method The manufacture of this material was developed in 1924. To date, there are three types of such plates:

• soft;
• solid and semi-solid;
• super hard.

Advantages and disadvantages

Sometimes the fibers are compared with the tree, which is actually not the case, because in fact it is a completely different material with various properties and appearance.

The main advantages of this fee are:

• durability;
• good sound and thermal insulation;
• simplicity in processing and installation;
• low mass;
• low cost;
• good environmental characteristics.

It should also be noted that some varieties of this material have high resistance to moisture and are successfully used for external treatments.

As for the shortcomings, there are two on this panel:

• low fire resistance;
• toxicity of certain varieties in which formaldehyde is used.

Installation instructions

Wooden panels can be folded in three ways:

• Above existing floor coatings without isolation;
• in prisons without heating;
• on heating logs.

Laying existing flooring without insulation

This procedure begins with the fact that the floor surface is carefully cleaned from old paint, soil and preparation.

After that leaves wooden panel Fixed in such a way that there are several millimeters between them. To make the corners of the material well attached to the substrate, it is better to place heavy items on them.

Laying without delay

Bearing bands are made of a square high-quality wooden bar, processed by special compositions from microorganisms.

Fibers on the floor - coatings, surface preparation and other shades of work

The distance between them depends on factors such as a cross-section of the carrier, the size of the fiber sheets and the degree of till the soil. Level levels are installed at the first level of laying.

Then they are attached to galvanized supports with nylon rings.

Only after this board are installed. Their fixation is designed in such a way that all the joints are on uneven rods. The size of the gap between the plates should be about 2-3 mm, and the distance between the plates and walls is 4-6 millimeters. To secure sheets, nails, bolts or screws are used.

Laying on insulated logs

This procedure is practically no different from installation without isolation, but during the delay before the start of this procedure there is a lag.

Experienced masters advise:

• technological and technological material only in well-ventilated premises or outdoors using personal protective equipment;
• good prepare a place to be stylized;
• start fit from the walls opposite the entrance door;
• if the laying is performed on the floor, first replace the flicker;
• Before decoking the coatings on the folding fibrous plate, the covers are good.

In this article we will talk about popular building material - DVP, consider the features of its use as an outdoor coating. You will learn about the differences in brands and installation features. The article contains information about the mechanical, consumer and operational properties of the Floor DVP.

Fiberboard is a fibrous stove, which in modern Russian-speaking terminology is also called MDF (from the English MDF - Medium Density Fibreboard - the medium density fiber plate).

It is made by pressing the groundwater material (ground sawdust, chips, chips - natural fiber) and cellulose. Additions to the mixture are added to the mixture in the mixture.

1. Synthetic resins for particle welding.
2. Hydropobicators (rosin, paraffin) for resistance to wetting.
3. Antipirens and antiseptics.
4. Impregnating by the penaltol for hardening.

Soft plates of brands M-1, M-2 and M-3 are filled with a "wet way" - moistened with water raw materials are sent under the hot press without adding additives.

The material is known for a long time and is widely used in construction, household goods, furniture manufacturing and packaging throughout the world. Accordingly, the variety of this slab is used for different needs. Total twelve varieties are known, which in the context of this article can be consecrated into two categories.

Solid plates (brands T, T-S, T-P, T-SP, T-B, T-SV, NT, ST, ST-C)

Laminated DVP - pressed plates with a coated with a finely dispersed polymer-wood mass. It has relatively high strength and fire safety. This is a well-known laminate or parquet board Low classes (6-12 mm). Thin thin panels (3-5 mm) go to the walls of the walls and the ceiling. From this material also make elements of furniture (facades), packaging, decorative products, (Good to handle).

Soft plates (M-1, M-2, M-3 brands)

It is this material that is the object of interest of our article. In the people, it is often called "organit" or "pressed cardboard" and there is a large proportion of truth. Up to 60% of the material of the recycling - waste paper, chips, bark, used to the production of soft plates (sheets). It is widely used in construction, furniture industry and for packaging.

Characteristics of DVP M-1

As a sample, we will take the optimal distribution option DVP M-1 brands (GOST 4598-86). Distinctive feature - With its manufacture, glue or resin (biologically pure material) is not used. Its indicators:

1. Density - 400 kg / cube. m.
2. Bending strength - 1.8 MPa.
3. Compressive strength (10% deformation) - 35 MPa.
4. Tensile strength - not rationed.
5. The coefficient of thermal conductivity is 0.09 W / m · ° C.
6. Release form - sheets up to 3 m long and 1.2 or 1.8 m wide.
7. Grinding, decorative (paintwork) or protective hydrophobic coatings - from one or two sides.

As can be seen from the source data, the Fiberboard is rather towards insulation than to constructive materials. For comparison, the thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam, suitable for similar applications, 0.032 W / m · ° C. At the same time, the strength of the bending plates is significantly inferior to even relatively weak wood - pine (79.3 MPa). However, the fibers of no accident are formed precisely in the form of a plate - this gives the necessary advantages to apply this material on the floor.

Using fiberboard when finishing

The form of a sheet or plate makes it easy and quickly aligning the surfaces, cover the slit and create an intermediate preparatory layer. Fuel and fragility of material during bending tests, breaking and gap in this case do not play roles - on semi Fiberg Works on compression. In this sense, the MDF is closer to the wood - strength to compress pine pine 44 MPa (versus 35 MPa in DVP).

With all the advantages mentioned above, one significant disadvantage does not allow it to be used fully as facing material For floors - low density. It becomes the cause of low abrasion resistance, which is unacceptable for flooring. In addition, soft plates are "afraid of" water and quickly swell during wetting. Therefore, DVP M-1, used on the floor, should be well protected from abrasion and moisture, which leaves them the role of an exclusively intermediate layer. In this capacity, the MDF perform the following functions:

1. Overlapping slots up to 5 mm. This often enjoy unscrupulous builders, performing repair "quickly". The draft is blocked, but the floor remains cold. For high-quality thermal insulation, be sure to check the sealing of the slots before laying.
2. Alignment plane. Fiberboard well smoothes millimeter steps old board Floor. This must be done before laying a new coating, especially linoleum. Otherwise, the step sticks out on it and the linoleum will break through with time.
3. Noise isolation. It is due to its softness and relative looseness of the Fiberboard absorbs noise and vibration. According to this indicator, it is also appropriate to compare with basalt wool.

It should also make a reservation that the Fiberboard is rather demanding. It does not tolerate moisture drops and is designed not just for interior decoration, And for residential and constantly heated premises. 10 cycles of a substantial moisture drop will lead to an irreversible warping, even if the sheet is fixed.

FEATURES OF MAINTAGE OF DVP on the wooden basis

Because of the low tensile strength and shift, the stove cannot reliably hold the force at one point - the nails and self-tapping caps are pushing the material. The low thickness of the sheet does not allow to make a sweat to hide the hat. From here, the conclusion - methods of fastening the sheet remains only two - a variety of small points or glue.

Mounting for a variety of points - effective methodBut rather time consuming. In this case, the sheet is fixed on fine thin nails (12x1.5 mm) in increments of 100 to 250 mm. Nails create a uniform clamp of the entire sheet, and the force is distributed not at 20-30, but by 200-250 points. In addition, their small hats are not released on the surface of the Fiberboard.

This method has one critical contraindication - a shaky base. If there is even a poor backlash, it will definitely become a gradual output of nails from seats and a gap of linoleum. Apply the tapping screw is not possible due to the size of the Hat. The method of multiple points is relevant only on a wooden basis.

Installation on glue. Fiberboard in the base version (polished on one side) is well suited for working with PVA glue on the rough side. The glue perfectly connects the material with wood surface. If you need to align the old wooden floor, it is better to apply the combined method - to lubricate the PVA with glue and strengthen the minor nails. The cost of PVA glue is 1.2-1.5 y. e. per 1 kg.

Installation of fiberboard on concrete (tie)

When installing on a concrete or screed there are nuances that need to be considered in advance:

1. The base should be smooth, without drops.
2. The moisture content of the cement base is unacceptable (blocked by special compositions - primers).
3. A uniform clamp must be provided.
4. Concrete factory slabs overlap has extremely low adhesion.

The subspecies of this method is the installation of double-sided industrial tape, designed specifically for gluing wood, PVC, PPR to concrete. The bay of such a tape with a length of 460 m and 12.5 cm wide costs about 10 y. e. (Dk Film, Duraco, USA).

When laying on glue along concrete, it is recommended to arrange more than one layer - the cold concrete is better to reliably block. The clamp can be organized like this: to put the boards on the surface and strengthen them with a dowel to the screed (the sheet is already laid on the glue). After drying the glue of the boards, remove the mounting holes to fill with liquid nails.

Operation of fiberboard on the floor

It makes it possible that if you paint the fiberboard enamel, it will be good flooring. This is not the case, since the ground surface has bad adhesion. In addition, the surface is sometimes covered with a thin layer of the hydrophobizer.

Even impregnated with the hydrophobizer sheet should be protected from moisture in all means. The easiest and affordable - impregnation of the olifa pure surface (to which the finishing layer will be laid). Cost of olifa 1-1.2 y. e. / liter.

Also, the material is well suited for the draft heaters of the insulation (from the inside!), Especially the minvati - the Fiberboard vapor permeable and allows the insulation to "breathe". The stove is processed very easily - literally cuts the knife. The cost of DVP in the baseline:

• with a thickness of 2.5 mm - 1.5 y. E. / m 2
• with a thickness of 3.2 mm - 2 y. E. / m 2

Oddly enough, but among the most modern materials Alternatives of DVP M-1 have not yet found. Manufacturers remain only experimenting with its composition, adding hardensions and antipyrenes, and vary consumer properties. This cheap, light and comfortable Material Indispensable as an intermediate leveling layer when finishing the floor.