Fiberboard on the floor: how to properly put fiberboard on a wooden floor, installation technology. Basic conditions for laying fiberboard on a wooden floor How to lay fiberboard on a concrete floor

June 1, 2016
Specialization: master in construction drywall constructions, finishing works and laying of floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

There is an erroneous opinion among many developers that laying linoleum on fiberboard is not the best option, they say, the surface is deformed through short term. In fact, if the laying is done in accordance with the technology, then such a base will serve you for more than a dozen years. In the review, I will describe the workflow in detail, and if you follow all the recommendations, the result will be excellent.

Description of the workflow

Let's figure out what you need when working, how to choose best material and what are the stages of laying fiberboard on different types surfaces. Everything is quite simple, the main thing is to understand all the nuances and avoid the mistakes that most developers make.

preliminary stage

At this stage, you need to do the following:

• The first step is to take measurements, to determine required amount material. It is important to do this not by eye, otherwise it may turn out that you did not have enough 1-2 sheets or, conversely, there are several elements left and there is simply nowhere to put them. The best thing to do rough plan each room, so you can lay out the sheets, this will allow you to arrange them so as to minimize the amount of waste;

• As for fiberboard, the material is made from chopped wood with the addition of natural adhesives: paraffin, rosin - this provides environmental safety material, it can be used in rooms with the highest requirements for hygiene and safety;

For all its advantages, fiberboard has one big drawback - the plates are afraid of moisture.
Therefore, use this option to prepare the surface for linoleum in rooms with high humidity Not recommended.

• The thickness of the material is from 2.5 to 6 mm. If there is a choice, then it is better to purchase the option with the maximum thickness, since fiberboard has high thermal and sound insulation properties and it is not advisable to use thin options. In addition, the rigidity of the elements also matters, and it also depends on the thickness, the minimum allowable indicator is 3.2 mm;
• As for the size of the sheets, they can vary, the width can be from 100 to 180 cm, and the length - from 120 to 274.5 cm. When choosing a specific option, use simple rule- the more, the better: the fewer seams on the surface, the more reliable it is and the easier it is for you to work;

• You must decide how the chipboard will be attached, there are three options - adhesive composition, nails or screws. Choice specific solution depends on the type of base and your preferences, below we will talk about all the methods of fastening and touch on their advantages and disadvantages;
• As for the tool, for cutting you will need a hard construction knife and a metal ruler 1 meter longso that when cutting the lines are perfectly even.

The price depends on the size of the sheet, so the 2140x1220 3.2 mm option will cost 140-180 rubles, the 2745x1700 slab will cost 360-420 rubles. As you can see, the solution is quite budgetary.

Foundation preparation

How evenly the fiberboard will lie directly depends on this stage, therefore it is important to carry out the work in a quality manner, the process consists of a number of actions.

Let's start with this type of base as a wooden floor, here the process is as follows:

• First of all, you need to free the room from all objects, after that you need to remove dust and dirt from the surface and conduct a careful inspection for damage and gaps between the floorboards. Pay special attention to the heads of nails and self-tapping screws, if they stick out, then they must be drowned into the surface, otherwise you will subsequently get a lot of flaws on the surface of the fiberboard;
• Next, you need to check the floor plane using the level, very often the elements have a semicircular shape. If such a flaw is found, then you will have to grind the surface. If the problems are minor, then you can get by with an electric planer or grinder, but if you need to remove significant irregularities, then it is better to use scraping;

• After the alignment is completed, you can begin to repair cracks, damage and indentations from nail heads and self-tapping screws. For work, either a special putty on wood or an acrylic sealant is used, this composition is excellent for sealing gaps, it has good adhesion and lends itself perfectly to grinding;

• When the putty dries, the surface is polished, after which you need to remove debris and carry out wet cleaning to remove even the smallest particles from the surface.

As for concrete bases, the preparation has its own differences:

• First, it is necessary to vacate the premises, after which all debris is removed from the surface and wet cleaning is carried out;
• Then the rule is taken and the plane is checked for curvature and level differences. If there are, then they need to be sealed. cement mortar if the irregularities are significant, then it is easier to use a self-leveling composition;

If you are working with a solution cement base, keep in mind that he needs at least 2 weeks to gain strength, so it is better to do preliminary preparation in advance.

• After carrying out all the work, you need to carry out a wet cleaning to remove all dust and dirt. After that, the base is treated with a water-repellent primer, it strengthens the surface and creates a reliable barrier to moisture penetration. Work can be continued after complete drying of the composition.

Laying fiberboard

In order to qualitatively lay fiberboard on the floor under linoleum, a number of conditions must be met:

• The most important thing to remember is that fiberboard does not tolerate moisture very well, so you need to take care of protecting the material, it is best to pre-treat the surface. Drying oil is used for work, which perfectly protects the material, its application will not cause difficulties - the work is done with an ordinary brush;

• After processing, the sheets should be allowed to dry, after which they should be stacked indoors so that they align as best as possible. If necessary, weighting agents can be placed on top so that under their influence the elements become perfectly even, this will simplify the workflow and make the final result much better;
• If the humidity in the room is low, then drying oil can be omitted, but the elements still need to be leveled. To do this, the wrong side of the fiberboard is treated with water, after which the sheets are placed with the wetted side to each other and so stacked. After two days, laying work can begin.

As for the workflow, it is done differently depending on the type of base, let's start with such an option as a concrete screed:

• First of all, you need to apply a special glue to the surface to fix the fiberboard on the surface, if earlier bitumen was used for these purposes, then nowadays there are many compositions that are very well suited for these purposes. Alternatively, you can use double-sided tape, it fixes the elements well and, if necessary, it is much easier to remove the sheets;

• Next, the sheet is carefully placed and pressed, do not forget that the material we are considering tends to expand, so a gap of 5-7 mm should be left between the fibreboard and the wall;
• Work begins from the farthest corner of the room from the entrance, first all whole sheets are laid, and then you need to attach the extreme element, which is carefully applied to the surface to determine the cutting line. After that, using a metal ruler and durable construction knife Fiberboard is notched and broken;

• After the adhesive has dried, you can start processing the joints, if there are irregularities in their place, then they must be removed by grinding. After that, the dust is removed from the surface, and the seams are sealed with wood putty or acrylic sealant. When the surface is dry, the final sanding is carried out, after which the surface must be thoroughly vacuumed before laying the linoleum.

Now let's figure out how to mount fiberboard on.

The work instructions are as follows:

• As for alignment, the process is described above, so it does not make sense to consider it in detail. It is worth noting that if you do not want to wet the sheets, then it is better to bring them into the room and stack them in a pile at least a week before the start of work, during which time the material will acclimatize and level out;
• There are only two ways of fastening - using nails 16-25 mm long or using self-tapping screws 3x20 or 3-25. You choose the option that is more convenient for you, but it is worth noting that working with nails is much faster and easier, so the nail method of fixing fiberboard is most often used;
• The work is carried out as follows: in the farthest corner, a slab is laid with indents of 5-7 mm from the walls, after which the fastening is carried out. Nails are hammered in increments of 100 mm along the edges and 150 mm at the junction of sheets to each other. Self-tapping screws are located in increments of 150 mm along the perimeter and 200 mm along the junctions;

When fastening Special attention make sure that the fastener caps are flush with the surface or are slightly recessed into it, otherwise, after laying the linoleum, the protruding caps will show through.

• Cutting is carried out as described above, if there are protruding sections along the perimeter, then cuts of the desired configuration are made in the fiberboard sheets. Remember a simple rule: if the platband interferes with the installation, then you need to cut it, and not the fibreboard. All recommendations are collected in the diagram below to make it even easier for you to understand the process;

• All protruding areas are polished with a bar with sandpaper, after which the surface is cleaned of dust and puttied, the fewer irregularities there are, the better the linoleum will lie, remember this. After the putty dries, it is also polished, on this the work can be considered successfully completed.

It is worth noting that laying linoleum on chipboard is done in a similar way. The only difference is that particle board is much thicker and heavier, and cutting it better with a hacksaw or an electric saw.

Recommendations for laying linoleum on a fiberboard base

Let's figure out how to properly lay linoleum on a prepared base, this process is simple, so you can easily handle it with your own hands. We will consider three main ways of doing work:

Without fixing material	If the area of ​​​​the room is less than 12 square meters, then linoleum can not be fixed on the floor surface. In this case, you need to cut the canvas according to the configuration of the room and carefully lay it. Fixation is carried out by skirting boards, which are located around the perimeter, and a metal threshold, which is attached to doorway, it is these elements that should press the material and prevent it from moving
Using double sided tape	This option appeared relatively recently, but has already gained great popularity due to the simplicity of the workflow and high-quality fixation of the material on the surface. The work is done as follows: first, the adhesive tape is glued over the entire area in the form of a lattice in increments of 30-50 centimeters, the upper protective layer while not being removed. After that, the top protective tape is removed from one edge at a distance of about 50 cm, linoleum is laid, and so on.
Adhesive fastening method	The classic solution, which involves the use of a special adhesive composition. This option is used in rooms with an area of ​​​​more than 20 square meters, its essence is simple: you smear part of the surface with adhesive, and then gently press the linoleum. Work is done gradually - part of the surface is lubricated, the roll is unwound, and so on until the end of the room

As for the joint at the seams with the glueless method, the easiest way is to stick double-sided tape on the base, it will securely fix the joint, and you do not have to purchase an adhesive composition. A metal bar is attached from above, which protects the joint and additionally fixes it.

Conclusion

Fiberboard is great for preparing the base for linoleum, it is important to choose high-quality material and properly carry out laying work. The video in this article will clearly show the workflow, and if something is unclear to you, then ask questions in the comments below the article.

Among different options leveling and finishing the floor is as cheap and simple as possible. One of them is laying fiberboard on the floor. It's practical and affordable option, which will save the surface from minor irregularities. Fiberboard has its own characteristics and contraindications for use - about all this, as well as how to properly lay the material, will be discussed in this article.

Fiberboard as a material is known to everyone. Sheets are used for upholstery of the back wall of cabinet furniture and for various other purposes. Fiberboard is a sheet product made on the basis of waste from wood processing enterprises. These wastes are subjected to steaming, grinding, mixed with resins, water repellents and antiseptics, and pressed under high pressure. The result is flat and even, but at the same time quite soft sheets.

On a note! The abbreviation "DVP" stands for simply - it is a fiberboard.

The dimensions of the fiberboard sheet are standard - 3.2x1700x2745 mm, although the thickness can vary from 2.5 to 4 mm. On the front side, the material is smooth, but on the wrong side it is rough to the touch, having a mesh pattern, which appears due to the fact that during production the material is laid and dried on a special mesh with small cells. There is always a demand for fiberboard, you can buy sheets at any hardware or hardware store.

Fiberboard is also used for finishing and leveling floors. Especially often it can be found in old apartments and houses, where the subfloor is usually made of wood, not concrete. Here it acts as a leveling material before laying finishing floor coverings - carpet, linoleum, etc. Also, fiberboard can act directly as finishing material, however, it needs a final decorative layer - for example, paint.

Description and types of fiberboard for the floor

There are several types of fiberboard. Basically, they differ from each other in terms of density.

Table. The main types of fiberboard.

Types	Characteristics and description
	These types of fiberboard have a low density - it is equal to no more than 350 kg / m3. They do not have good soundproofing properties. Typically, such sheets are used as the back walls of cabinet furniture, are used to make the bottom of furniture drawers, etc. Types of soft fiberboard: M1, M2, M3.
	The density of these types of wood sheets is already higher - at least 850 kg / m3. Similar to the soft types, these fiberboards are used in the manufacture of furniture, but are more durable and less flexible. Marked with the abbreviation NT.
	The density of these sheets ranges from 850-1000 kg/m3. They are low porosity and can be used in the manufacture of some types of doors, as well as for the manufacture of furniture. Types: T, T-S, T-P, T-SP; T has the usual coverage, y T-S external side covered with wood fibers, T-P sheets dyed, T-SP also have a slight tint. There is also T-B sheets, which are highly resistant to moisture, while not having tinting on the front side.
	Sheets with a maximum density - over 1000 kg / m3. Raw materials must be processed with pectol, a substance that increases their strength by 20%. It is these sheets that are used in construction: partitions are created from them, floors are covered with them or walls are sheathed, they are used for various finishing works. Also suitable for making furniture and door leaf. The front side can be coated with paint, primer, varnish. They are marked as CT having a standard front side, and CT-C having a finely dispersed front layer.

Fiberboard grades T, T-S, T-P, T-SP may be marked with a quality group (A or B), their front side may be of the 1st or 2nd grade. By the way, T is hardboard, which is produced by the wet method. Hardboard can be used for wall cladding, as a substrate for laminate and other floor coverings, for sound and heat insulation of floors, and interior decoration.

Advantages and disadvantages of hardboard flooring

Fiberboard is often used to level a subfloor or base and is suitable for almost all surfaces. This material has a lot of advantages, and therefore is in great demand.

Advantages of laying fiberboard on the subfloor.

Disadvantages of hardboard as a floor covering.

1. The material is afraid of water. When moisture gets in, the fiberboard begins to deform - it rises and swells. Thus, the sheet completely loses its appearance, the paint on it and other finishes are also deformed. Do not use fiberboard in the kitchen or bathroom.
2. fragility. If there are cavities under the fiberboard sheets, then with a strong mechanical impact, the material is easily destroyed. It also breaks easily when the sheet is strongly bent.
3. High fire hazard. In the event of a fire, fiberboard will be quickly engulfed in flames and burned.
4. Front wears out quickly. If the fiberboard is not covered with a finishing material, then it quickly shuffles off and loses its appearance.
5. If fiberboard sheets are laid in an unheated and damp room, then they deform, begin to exfoliate.

How to choose the right fiberboard for the floor

In order for the final work to please the owner for a long time and serve without complaints, it is important to approach the choice of material with all responsibility and buy a quality option. There are several criteria that will allow you to choose the fiberboard that is ideal for each specific case.

Let's first briefly recall what a fiberboard (MDF) is. It consists of pieces of wood impregnated with a special adhesive and pressed under high pressure and at high temperature. This production technology is typical for all types of fiberboard. Each specific type differs in density, impregnation materials and surface grinding (drawing). In this article, we will consider such an application of this material as a fiberboard ceiling finish. In order to make ceilings from fiberboard with your own hands, you do not need to have any special skills or special knowledge.

For each room you need to select the appropriate type of material. For a living room, you can take soft grades of fiberboard, which will better let air through, in other words, “breathable”. To sheathe a fiberboard ceiling in rooms with high humidity, it is recommended to order sheets of increased density (they absorb moisture much less) and impregnated with a special antifungal solution that will prevent the appearance.

Some "specialists" practically do not pay attention to the mass of the wood fiber board, and it sometimes reaches 30 kg. Imagine what kind of load is created on the ceiling, sheathed with such "weightless" fiberboard boards! Therefore, we remind you once again - pay attention to the brand of the plate: the lower the density, the lighter the plate. It should be noted that the density of the material is directly proportional to the degree of moisture resistance and strength.

Fiberboard ceiling cladding technology

Let's look at how to sheathe a fiberboard ceiling. The sheathing process is divided into two milestones:

So you've completed preparatory work and purchased fiberboard sheets. They must be laid on a flat surface and these sheets should be left in the room in which the fiberboard ceiling will be sheathed for about a day or two in order to equalize the temperature and humidity of the sheets with the microclimate in the room.

Installation work is best done by two people - this is best option. It’s not worth doing the work alone - you can break the sheet or the fiberboard sheet will fall on you or along with you.

Mounting methods

For fixing to the crate, you can use construction staples(in the case of mounting on a wooden beam and using a construction stapler), nails or self-tapping screws. Please note that in the latter case, you need to countersink each "breakdown" (make a recess under the hat). Ways of fastening to the ceiling depend on the density of the sheet. We remember that the denser the fiberboard sheet, the heavier it is, and accordingly, the more strong materials for fastening. Protruding iron from staples or nails must be carefully puttied, because over time these iron parts will rust and show through paint or wallpaper.

The procedure for fixing a fiberboard sheet

First you need to fix the sheet according to the guide rails. To do this, the sheet must be lifted, pressed against the guide profiles and fixed with several fasteners along the edges of the sheet. Important detail: This is a pre-commit. Therefore, do not use staples for this. Fix sheets long nails or thin screws that will protrude from the fiberboard. That is, do not completely hammer them, so that you can then painlessly pull them out. The sheet fixed in this way is checked with a rope, which is pulled across the entire room. If the sheet is unevenly attached, then it is relatively easy to pull out the nails and trim it.

Now we move on to fixing the aligned sheet. To finally nail the sheet to the ceiling, you need to start from one edge with a step of 15 cm. In this way, we gradually go through the entire sheet, and there will be no bulges on the material.

Finishing work:

Finally, you have finished mounting the fiberboard ceiling, everything turned out smoothly and without cracks. Now, with a clear conscience, we proceed to the finishing work.

Fiberboard ceiling, look at the video:

In conclusion, we will take a closer look at the third option, how to paint fiberboard on the ceiling with paint.

If you do not know how to paint the fiberboard on the ceiling, then we recommend using a foam roller. It will paint over the microrelief of the surface well, evenly distribute the paint and the hairs will not leave it. If you buy a fur roller, then there is no guarantee of its quality. In addition, the fur roller leaves a micro-pattern of hairs, which does not always resolve on the ceiling, but, on the contrary, becomes more convex and noticeable under the force of gravity. Use the special telescopic handle and it will be easier for you to work.

Fibreboard is one of the most sought after products these days. sheet materials. Widely used in various fields National economy, Fiberboard is often used in construction and repair work. In particular, the laying of fiberboard on a wooden floor as a base or finishing floor has gained wide popularity.

In order to save on expensive specialist services, most home craftsmen carry out such work with their own hands. This is a fairly simple procedure and right approach it allows you to achieve truly high results. How to attach fiberboard to wooden floor we will talk in this article.

Advantages of laying fiberboard on the base

Fibreboards are made by hot pressing woodworking and sawmill waste with the addition of antiseptics, synthetic resins, and various stabilizing agents.

Such a composition and manufacturing technology cause a number of serious advantages compared to natural wood, namely:

1. Acceptable price.
2. A dense structure in which nails, self-tapping screws, screws are perfectly “held”.
3. Lacquered surface that does not require any additional processing.
4. High strength.

Flaws:

1. Fiberboard loses to wood in terms of appearance.
2. Such coatings are wiped quickly enough, so it is undesirable to lay them as finishing floors.

Advice! Despite the presence of water repellents in the composition of the material, in order to avoid deformation, such sheets should be protected from moisture. Therefore, they cannot be used as a finishing floor in rooms with increased level humidity.

Mounting technology

As mentioned above, making floors from fiberboard is generally not difficult, but in order to achieve high results, you need to take into account all the features of working with this material. The work is carried out in several stages, and an important aspect in their implementation is proper preparation surfaces.

Preparing the base for fiberboard

The following instructions will help you prepare:

1. Having purchased the material, you need to bring its humidity as close as possible to the humidity of the room. Otherwise, the sheets will warp during installation, and the base will need to be dismantled. To prevent this from happening, you need to moisten the reverse side of each sheet with warm water, after which the sheets should be turned back to each other and left in this form for a day.

Advice! If the room is regularly heated, then it is not necessary to wet the sheets. It is enough just to put them on edge, leaving them in this position for two days.

1. The fiberboard for the floor is laid on wooden base or sand-cement screed. The screed must be pre-treated with a primer mixture.

Advice! As a primer, it is desirable to use bitumen dissolved in gasoline, in a ratio of 6: 1.

1. Before applying the primer, the substrate must be cleaned of dust and dirt.
2. A construction vacuum cleaner can be used to remove dust.
3. If laying is carried out along the lags, then it is not necessary to level the base. In places of irregularities, you should only put under the logs wooden bars or pieces of plywood.

Laying on lags

If you decide to mount the floor from fiberboard with your own hands along the logs, then you need to pre-purchase wooden bars. It is they who will be used as a lag. The advantage of this method is that heat-insulating mats can be laid between the lags.

Installation instructions:

1. According to the length of the base, we cut off the bars of the desired size.
2. We lay a waterproofing film on the base. It can be either a specialized waterproofer or an ordinary one. polyethylene film, 150-200 microns thick. We close the joints between the sheets with construction tape.
3. Laying the log starts 30 cm from the wall, then the step between them is 60-80 cm.

1. Logs are strengthened on the basis by means of anchors.
2. Between the lags we lay heat-insulating mats. Best suited for this mineral wool. The insulation should fit snugly between the lags. If joints occur, seal them with foam.
3. Now let's move on to how to nail the fiberboard to the floor. In the case of lags, fixation is carried out by means of ordinary self-tapping screws. It is undesirable to use nails, as over time such a coating will loosen.

Advice! Plates should be laid in such a way that the distance from the walls is 5-10 mm.

Laying on a screed

Process

It is easier than jogging, but only if it is done on a perfectly leveled base.

So let's start with alignment:

1. If significant irregularities are found on the base, then The best way level the floor screed - use beacons. Profiles for drywall are taken as beacons, which are cut according to the width of the room.
2. Lighthouses are laid parallel to each other in a small amount of mortar.
3. When the solution hardens a little and the beacons "grab" - you can start pouring the screed.

laying on a concrete floor screed is simpler than installation on logs, but only if it is done on a perfectly leveled base.

So let's start with alignment:

1. If significant irregularities are found on the base, then the best way to level the floor screed is to use beacons. Profiles for drywall are taken as beacons, which are cut according to the width of the room.
2. Lighthouses are laid parallel to each other in a small amount of mortar.
3. When the solution hardens a little and the beacons "grab" - you can start pouring the screed.

Concrete floor screed: step by step guide on creation, and the nuances of the process "href =" https://shkolapola.club/ustroystvo/styazhka/577-betonnaya-styazhka-pola "> laying on a concrete floor screed is simpler than installation on logs, but only if if it is produced on a perfectly leveled base.

So let's start with alignment:

1. If significant irregularities are found on the base, then the best way to level the floor screed is to use beacons. Profiles for drywall are taken as beacons, which are cut according to the width of the room.
2. Lighthouses are laid parallel to each other in a small amount of mortar.
3. When the solution hardens a little and the beacons "grab" - you can start pouring the screed.

We prepare the mastic according to the recommendations on the label.

We apply mask.

There are two application options, depending on the type of composition:

• cold mastic applied to the entire surface of the screed (previously primed), while the thickness of the mastic is not more than 0.6 mm, and the adhesive layer is not more than 0.3 mm. 30 minutes before the start of work, it is necessary to lubricate the lower surface of the plates with glue.
• hot mastic should only be applied to the area where the slab will be laid. This is necessary so that the temperature of the mastic does not fall below 140 degrees. The layer should not exceed 1 mm in thickness, so the mastic must be leveled with rubber combs.

1. We firmly press the plates to the base.

There can be several reasons for repairing the floor: unevenness of the base, various damages, the need for insulation, and the like. Today, there are many materials on the market, which makes it very difficult to choose one or another floor covering.

However, no matter what material you choose, be it laminate or parquet boards, in any case, you can not do without solid foundation for new flooring. It is also used to create different materials, but the best option will become hardboard. The material is one of the varieties of fiberboard (wood fiber boards).

Hardboard

Manufacturing technology

For the manufacture of hardboard, woodworking waste is used: shavings, sawdust. During production, these wastes are mixed with a binder and then sent to a hot press. The final product comes out in the form of a long strip, then it is cut into individual plates, which are delivered to the store.

When laying, the sheets are cut along the right size. On the one hand, the hardboard has a corrugated surface, and on the other, it is smooth. This is the front side, which has an attractive appearance, while the wrong side of the hardboard provides a reliable bond with adhesives.

The back and front surface of the hardboard

In addition to polymers that give hardboard good strength characteristics, paraffin and rosin enter the composition, these components provide the material with water-repellent qualities. The material belongs to the line of environmentally friendly products, it will not emit substances hazardous to health.

Right choice

Today, all hardboard, which is on the market, is marked depending on the method of its manufacture and the type of finish. if the letter T is in its marking, this means that the sheet is solid, and based on what kind of front surface it has, the material is divided into two types - processed and unprocessed. If the letter C is indicated in the designation, this means that given type hardboard "superhard".

In addition to the usual fiberboard, which has a corrugated back side and a brown tint on the front, manufacturers offer laminated hardboard. The surface of such a sheet imitates different natural materials. The texture can be structured, which looks very nice, or smooth.

Laminated hardboard

Therefore, when choosing such a material, it is worth understanding for what work it is needed. If the hardboard will act as a substrate for linoleum, in this case you can purchase unennobled material, it is inexpensive and at the same time copes with its task. According to the characteristics of such hardboard is similar to natural wood, which is used in its manufacture. It's material good quality so it will last for quite a long time.

As soon as you buy and bring home the material, do not immediately start laying, let it lie down for two or three days in the room where it is supposed to be installed. During this time, hardboard will acclimatize. Sheets should not be left in an upright position, they are carefully laid on a flat surface, while it is important that the place where they are stored is dry.

Important! If the hardboard is laid without acclimatization, after a while the material will deform in the form of swelling and warping, then it will be necessary to dismantle the damaged plates and lay new ones in their place.

Although special additives are added to the composition during the manufacture of hardboard, which provide the material with moisture resistance, it is not necessary to lay it in places where there is a risk of flooding. And even if the installation is carried out in a dry room, it is recommended to additionally process the material with special moisture-resistant agents. You can buy hardboard at any building materials store.

Laying

The installation of sheets will not present any particular difficulty, such work can be done independently, the main thing is to know the installation technology and perform the actions in the desired sequence. Laying is divided into several stages, we will talk about this in more detail.

Hardboard installation instructions

Surface preparation and hardboard slabs

First of all, the surface for mounting the material is cleaned of debris. Laying sheets is carried out on the surface of the concrete floor only if it is even. If there are height differences, then you must first make a screed, then wait for it to dry completely. If hardboard is laid on a wet screed, the material will absorb moisture from the concrete and quickly warp.

After the screed dries, it must be primed, such a step will extend the service life of the hardboard. For the same purpose, immediately before installation, the material can be impregnated with drying oil. In the room where the material is laid, the humidity should be no more than 55%, and the temperature should not be lower than +5 degrees. When the material is prepared, and concrete base aligned, you can proceed to the second stage of work.

Fit

The sheets are laid out on the floor. In those places where they do not match, you will need to adjust them. It's easy to do. Next is laying, with the fiberboard fixed to the floor, this will help to avoid damage to the sheets, because the fit is easier to do when they are not fixed. The laying of the hardboard is carried out in a run, while all four corners should not converge in one place.

cutting fiberboard

Laying

So, the surface has been cleaned and leveled, the sheets have been adjusted, now they need to be properly laid and fixed. In the event that they are mounted on a concrete base, the sheets can be glued using the construction adhesive KN 3 or BOSTIK kp2 (kp5). There is another method of fixation - the use of highly heated bitumen. After heating to 180 degrees, the composition is left to stand for a couple of hours, this time is enough for moisture to evaporate from the bitumen. Then it is applied to the concrete floor and then the hardboard is glued.

Bitumen laying

Important! Adhesive compositions for fixing hardboard should not have a water base.

When gluing the sheets, small through cuts are made in them, such a step will eliminate the risk of deformation. In addition, as soon as the sheet is laid on the bitumen, it is pressed down with a heavy object. After the adhesive has completely dried, you can lay the next layer of sheets, if necessary. After that you can mount flooring on hardboard base.

The best option is to install fiberboard on wooden logs. In this case, first cover the floor surface waterproofing film, then dowels fix the logs to the floor at a distance of thirty to thirty-five centimeters. On the uneven areas leveling pads are laid under the logs.

After that, a transverse crate is performed. It is important that the cell size of the crate does not exceed 30 × 30 cm. As soon as the crate is ready, fiberboard is fixed to it using self-tapping screws with a certain step. Along the perimeter of the sheet, the step is 15 cm, and on the inner plane - 25-30 cm.

Laying work will be greatly simplified, and the time costs will be small if you install the sheets on a wooden floor. Here you only need to adjust the hardboard to the size of the room and then fix it with nails or screws. As you can see, the method of attaching hardboard to a laid wooden floor is the easiest.

Finishing

When the laying of fiberboard is completed, it remains to seal the seams between the laid sheets. For this purpose putty is used. If self-tapping screws are used to fix the sheets, their caps are also puttied. After redecorating completed, a floor covering is laid on the surface of the hardboard.

To better understand how the sheets are stacked, watch the video presented here: