Do-it-yourself wooden frame garage. We build a garage with our own hands: a step-by-step guide from scratch, how I build a garage What kind of wooden garage do I have

For the construction of this type of building, it is not at all necessary to use expensive building materials. When building a garage with your own hands, slag or foam blocks are most often used. In our article, we will describe the stages of planning the construction of a garage.

Depth and type of foundation

When choosing it, the weight of the structure and the type of soil must be taken into account. When erecting walls from cinder blocks, it is sufficient to equip a shallowly buried tape or columnar base. It can be poured from concrete or built from the same blocks.

But, if hollow structures are used to build walls, then for arranging the foundation you will need solid cinder blocks. The foundation of them is able to withstand a structure weighing up to 100 tons.

trench preparation

Marking the foundation for the garage

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the width and length of the structure. There are a lot of drawings and photos of a self-built garage on the net. For a passenger car of standard sizes, it will be enough to erect a building measuring 3x6 m. In width, it is necessary to leave a margin of 70 cm for ease of passage and arrangement of shelving. If it is planned to attach a workshop to the garage, then the length or width will increase accordingly. The acceptable height of such a structure is 2.3 m.

When choosing a place for a garage, be sure to check the communications plan so as not to damage the water and gas pipes. To mark the future trench, metal rods or strong wooden stakes with pointed ends are used. They are placed in the corners and sides of the future foundation every 1.5-2 m. A strong cord is pulled tightly between them. To get a perfect rectangle, it should also be stretched from the corners - the diagonals should turn out to be equal in size and have the same intersection angles.

The trench is dug by hand - when using the technique, the soil will crumble. After its excavation to a depth of 70-80 cm (on clay soils by 150 cm), the earth should be carefully compacted. For problem-free soils, this is not very necessary. On weak soils, this procedure is mandatory. With good compaction of sandy soil, sandy loam or loam, the drawdown can be up to 0.5 m.

If a viewing hole is provided in the garage, a foundation pit is first prepared for it. Such a pit is strengthened with temporary formwork, and only then they begin to prepare a trench for the foundation.

Laying blocks for the foundation

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Types of strip foundation

Laying is done in a checkerboard pattern so that each of the blocks of the next row falls on the seam of the row of the previous one. To obtain a reliable design, the verticality and horizontality of the rows are verified by the building level. The height of the foundation must be calculated so that it rises above the surface by 0.7 m.

The laid out base must be strengthened with a plaster mesh. It is attached to a cement mortar 2 cm thick. To protect the base from moisture, it is covered with liquid bitumen. A double layer of roofing material or other rolled waterproofing is attached on top of it. After the foundation is completely ready, the space between it and the ground is covered with earth and compacted tightly.

For heaving soils and with a close location of groundwater, the use of a block foundation is undesirable. After all, when the soil moves in a horizontal direction, the masonry, and the cinder blocks themselves, can collapse.

Gate installation

They are mounted before the construction of the building begins. For the manufacture of the frame of the gate, a metal corner is used. An I-beam is laid on top so that it goes into the walls by 20 cm.

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Ready-made swing, metal gates

For a strong fastening of the door frame, it is necessary to weld metal 12-mm rods 40 cm long to it, which will later be laid into the seams of the walls. To do this, you need to accurately calculate at what distance you need to attach the bars.

After leveling the structure and checking the horizontal and vertical position, it is embedded in cement and temporarily fixed with wooden braces. Before installing the gate, be sure to check if there are any obstacles to opening in the form of buildings or trees.

Calculation of the required number of blocks

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First you need to know the perimeter of the walls. We need to add the length and width of the building and multiply their sum by 2. For a garage of standard sizes 3x6 m, the perimeter will be (3 + 6) x 2 = 18 m.

Now you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. Let's say their height is 2.3 m. We multiply the perimeter of the walls by the height of the building. The area will be equal to 18 x 2.3 \u003d 41.4 square meters. m.

The standard size of a cinder block is 0.19 x 0.39 m. We multiply these numbers. Its lateral area will be 0.0741 sq. m. Now it remains to find out the number of blocks required for laying the walls of a garage measuring 3x6 m. The perimeter is 41.4 square meters. m divided by the area of ​​one block of 0.0741 sq. m. We get 558.7 pieces. We round the number up to 559. It is necessary to take cinder blocks with a margin of 5-10% for cutting and marriage. We add 56 more blocks to the resulting number 559. We get 615 pieces. Please note that this calculation is carried out without taking into account solid blocks going to the construction of the foundation. For him, the calculation should be done separately.

You can also use online calculators to calculate the required number of cinder blocks. For example, this one:

When erecting walls in heated rooms, cinder blocks that can quickly absorb moisture require additional lining and insulation. Otherwise, in winter, the condensate formed at the junction of heat and cold, freezing, will quickly destroy the walls.

Walling

A building made of high-quality cinder blocks can last 50 years or more. You can lay out walls from them quite quickly. But, since such blocks are quite heavy, you will need an assistant in your work.

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Construction of the walls of the garage from cinder blocks

1. Before purchasing blocks, be sure to check their quality. To do this, install a pair of randomly selected products on top of each other. There shouldn't be a gap between them.
2. Products from fine-grained slag are more expensive, but they also last much longer. However, their thermal insulation properties will be lower
3. To fasten cinder blocks, it is better to take not a standard cement mortar, but a special adhesive mixture. The seams in this case will be thinner and stronger. When using a cement mortar, the proportions for mixing are standard: 3 to 1 (sand, cement). Frost resistance and strength of the solution can be enhanced by adding plasticizers to it.
4. When using cement mortar, the thickness of the joints is 1.5 cm. When laying on glue, this parameter must be specified in the instructions.
5. Dilute the solution gradually after all, after setting, it will no longer be possible to use it. It should be enough for 1-1.5 hours of work. Keep in mind that for 4 blocks it will take you about a bucket of mortar
6. For the walls of an unheated garage, half-stone masonry is enough when the blocks are laid along, and not across the wall
7. Block laying should begin from the corners with checking the verticality and horizontality of the rows with a building level. To do this, a string is stretched between the two extreme blocks, which will serve as a guide.
8. Hollow blocks have only holes down
9. To get a checkerboard laying, the next row starts with a half of the block. In this case, the next row will move, and the cinder blocks of the first row will close the seams of the blocks of the previous row. In order not to engage in cutting, you can purchase ready-made corner cinder blocks
10. To strengthen the structure, it is better to use reinforcement(metal mesh). It is laid in the seams between the rows. The first row is reinforced necessarily. Then the grid is laid in every 4th row. Window and door openings must also be reinforced. The grid is laid in the last 2 rows

If you want to change the colors of the joints, add carbon black to the solution to darken, lime to lighten or blue copper sulphate to obtain a blue tint. Or use special additives that you can buy at a hardware store.

garage floor

The cost of cinder blocks for building walls is only 1/3 of the cost. Material investments will also be needed for arranging the roof, foundation, gates, decoration, etc. But still, a block building will cost less than any other material.

To cover the roof, I-beams are used, which are laid across the building every 80 cm. Their length should be 25 cm more than the total width of the garage. In places where they rest on the walls, cinder blocks must be replaced with more durable ones. concrete blocks.

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Thick, durable boards are attached to the bottom of the beams. Their thickness should be 4-5 cm. They are waterproofed with roofing felt with a small 10-centimeter run on the walls.

To protect the foundation from rain and melting snow, 4 cm long visors should be attached to the edges of the roof. You can insulate the roof with slag, which is poured on top of the roofing material, foam plastic or mineral wool. They are protected from moisture with a layer of 30 mm cement screed. In the future, it is treated with bitumen, and then covered with roofing material with an overlap of sheets of 10-15 cm. They also need to close the visors.

For the roof of the garage, you can use any material: from slate, metal profiles to tiles. It is necessary that it protrudes 20 cm beyond the walls. Then, during rain or snowmelt, moisture will not flow down the walls.

When constructing a shed roof, the walls must have a slope - for each meter of length, it should be about 50 mm.

viewing hole

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viewing hole

Its arrangement is possible only when the groundwater rises below the level of 2.5 m. If they rise a little higher, drainage can be arranged in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe pit. However, this will require additional labor and capital investments. With a high groundwater approach to the surface level, it is better to refuse to build a viewing hole - it will simply be flooded.

Standard sizes

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For a comfortable inspection and repair of a passenger car, the dimensions of the pit should be as follows:

• length: to determine this parameter, 1 m¸ is added to the length of the vehicle, for example, (4.5 + 1) = 5.5 m
• width, 200 mm less than the standard gauge of the car (the distance between the wheels), in this case the car can easily drive into the pit without the risk of falling down; You can check this information in the technical documentation.
• depth: so that an adult can stand in it, straightening up, this parameter should be 1.85-2.0 m

The pit for the viewing hole needs to be done a little more so that there is room for concreting or laying brick walls. It is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the hydro- and heat-insulating layers. If necessary, niches for placing tools can be provided in the walls of the pit.

Finishing the walls of the pit with concrete

To protect against moisture, crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the prepared pit, and then sand. From above, such a pillow is covered with a layer of wet clay and compacted. Further, reinforcement is laid on the bottom, and it is concreted or laid out with bricks. In order for the concrete to set well, the pit must be left for a week to dry.

After the specified time has elapsed, waterproofing is laid on the bottom, then a layer of foam (heat insulator), and it is again filled with a layer of concrete mortar of small thickness. Enough 15-20 mm.

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It is also desirable to pre-coat the walls with clay, which is a natural waterproofing agent. A thick film or roofing material is attached on top. You can replace it with bitumen, liquid rubber or plastic plates. Next, a heat insulator is attached.

The thickness of the walls when pouring concrete is 15 cm. When installing the formwork, reinforcement in the form of a metal mesh or bars is placed in it.

The concrete solution is poured in stages of 0.3-0.4 m, followed by drying for several hours. At each stage of pouring, it is well bayoneted to remove voids.

When laying lighting, the wires should be hidden in the corrugation. It is attached to the reinforcing mesh using plastic ties before pouring concrete. It is necessary to provide for natural or forced ventilation of the inspection pit.

You can protect the walls from shedding with the help of a metal corner, laid around the perimeter at the top. It is advisable to make a durable metal or wooden cover to eliminate the possibility of falling.

Finished base of the garage with a viewing hole

To make the floors even, when arranging a garage with your own hands, you first need to prepare beacons - metal or wooden slats installed on thick mortar slaps. The distance between the slats should be slightly more than the length of the rule - a tool in the form of a long ruler used to level the mortar.

The horizontal alignment of the beacons is done using the building level. If necessary, a solution is reported under them or, on the contrary, it is pressed into the surface more strongly. After leveling the concrete, it must be covered with a film and left to dry for a week.

wall decoration

Porous cinder blocks are able to reliably retain heat in the building. But at the same time it is also a disadvantage. Since porous cinder blocks quickly absorb water, the walls of it require additional finishing. They can be plastered or protected with a ventilated façade. Otherwise, when freezing wet walls, the material will begin to collapse.

Wall decoration must be done immediately after construction is completed. The best time for this is summer.

Many people believe that the garage should be a kind of fortress, built from familiar but expensive building materials. Nowadays, it is possible to choose a less expensive method of erecting structures - this is a frame construction technology. If you follow all the requirements, then the garage will turn out not only warm, but also durable. Despite the apparent fragility of the structure, it has several advantages:

• Due to the low weight of the structure, there is no need to build a powerful foundation, which can be made on any type of soil.
• With a small thickness of the walls, they perfectly keep the heat inside the garage, so you do not have to spend a lot of money on heating.
• No need to plaster. In addition, for both exterior and interior decoration, there are many relatively inexpensive materials on sale.
• The dirtiest job is the installation of the foundation. All other works do not lead to pollution of the site.
• From the start of construction to its completion, a maximum of 2 months will pass, and half of this period is allotted for the solidification of the concrete foundation.

Is it possible to build a strong frame garage with your own hands? Of course, even alone, which is not always convenient, but quite feasible. Let's take a look at all the stages of the work together.

What is the skeleton made of?

Since we are talking about frame construction, it is quite understandable that it is necessary to carefully consider what material it is made of. For this, wood or metal can be used. In each case, the work on the manufacture of the skeleton will be different, so we will dwell on the choice of material in more detail.

bar

Consider the advantages and disadvantages of a wooden frame.

pros

• The frame will cost a little less.
• If there is no electricity, then all work can be done with ordinary carpentry tools. This option is extremely laborious, and it will take more time.

Minuses

The disadvantages include:

• High level of fire danger, in comparison with other materials (the only exception is the structure of logs).
• Various insects and bugs like to feast on wood.
• The material does not tolerate prolonged exposure to moisture.

Many of these shortcomings are not so significant with the appropriate processing of the material. When it comes to fire hazards, there are usually many other items and liquids in the garage that are flammable, so the design features of the room do not play a big role.

Metal

In this case, in the manufacture of the skeleton can be used:

1. Metal profile or LSTK.
2. profile pipe.
3. Metal corner.

It is also worth dwelling on the features in more detail.

• The material itself is not combustible, but after a fire it becomes unsuitable for further use.
• Any design can be made collapsible, but when working with thick metal parts, it is better to use electric welding.
• The frame is subject to corrosion.

At this stage, you must clearly decide on the choice - you will have to choose the right project.

How about a project?

Many people believe that when building simple structures, you can do without paperwork, but in our case, not a small temporary structure will be erected, but a garage that must withstand a large mass of snow on the roof and not warp under the weight of the gate. Therefore, it is better not to take risks, but to use a ready-made project or make your own. In this case, you will see how much and what material you need to purchase.

We bring to your attention a garage project, but if for some reason it does not fit, then it can be redone by making your own adjustments.

Scheme

Preparatory work

So, we figured out the project, purchased the materials, now let's start the preparatory work.

Construction site

Most often, the place where the garage will be built is determined in advance, but on closer examination it may turn out to be inconvenient, as it is located on a slope. In some cases, it is easier to start construction elsewhere than to take out tons of land, attracting a variety of equipment for this.

Having finally decided on the site, mark the dimensions of the garage with pegs. Check again if the entry will be convenient.

What will be the foundation?

Depending on the type of foundation chosen, the site is prepared.

• When pouring a shallow strip foundation, part of the soil is removed in those places where it will pass.
• Under the monolithic slab, excavation is carried out along the entire perimeter to a depth of at least 50 cm.
• In the case of the manufacture of a columnar foundation, pits 50 × 50 cm in size are pulled out to a solid base.
• If a decision is made to make a pile-screw foundation, then we do not touch the soil at all.

Let's start making the foundation

We will consider the manufacturing process of the most expensive, but the most practical type of foundation - this is the pouring of a monolithic slab. Such a base will not push through the wheels of the car, and there will be no problems in the manufacture of a viewing hole. You can choose the most suitable or less expensive type of foundation, using the recommendations from the video collections on the relevant topic.

foundation type:

When constructing a slab foundation, the procedure will be as follows:

	The soil is sampled to a depth of 50 cm.
	The bottom is thoroughly rammed.
	It is covered with sand so that it does not reach 20 cm to the top of the pit.
	Sand also needs to be well compacted.
	Geotextile is laid on top.
	The next layer of the pie will be crushed stone of the middle fraction, which fills the pit to the brim. It also needs to be well tamped.
	Now it's up to the formwork. It is best if it is set flush with the level of the slab fill - this is less likely to allow drops. As for the thickness of the concrete layer, then 20 cm will be enough for a car. For a truck, it is better to increase the thickness to 30 cm.
	Having exposed the formwork, it is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the structure by securing the supports from all sides. It is best if a thick board is used for formwork. If this is not the case, then more supports will be needed.
	On top of the crushed stone with an overlap, waterproofing is laid on the formwork, which is used as bitumen-based roll materials or a thick polyethylene film.
	Now the first layer of reinforcement Ø10–14 mm is installed. It should not touch the bottom, so you need to provide the necessary clearance. For this purpose, it is not necessary to use bricks and other objects, as they can pierce the waterproofing, and some are not at all suitable for laying in a screed.
	Use plastic clamps for fittings.
	Then another layer of reinforcement is laid.
	Having poured concrete, you need to vibrate it (the process is shown in the photo), while trying not to touch the frame and formwork. Bayoneting with a stick is tedious and ineffective.
	The edges of the formwork served as the level of pouring and leveling the concrete pad.
	Now you have to wait almost a whole month until the concrete gains the necessary strength. In the summer, the pillow should be periodically watered with water and covered with a material that prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture. Also, the foundation needs protection if made in the fall and left until spring.

Frame erection

Since we are talking about a wooden structure, all parts must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition. We need bars and boards of these sizes:

• For the lower part of the garage, we use bars 100 × 40 or 100 × 50 mm.
• The size of the corner bars and racks is 100 × 100 mm.
• Rafters and additional racks - 100 × 50 mm.
• The distance between the uprights is 110–120 mm.
• The optimal length of the boards is 3 m. You can purchase six-meter blanks and cut them in half.
• For the roof we will use boards 100 × 25 mm.
• The crate is best made from bars 30 × 30 or 40 × 40 mm.

	So, the foundation is ready, you can start building the frame. We will start assembling it on a plane, and then we will lift it, install it and fix it. Let's start with the back wall. To give the frame strength in the corners, struts should be installed.
	The next to be mounted is the reinforced part of the frame in which the gate will be installed.
	Then fix the opposite wall from the door.
	Let's start assembling the front wall.
	Now it can be installed and fixed. From a metal corner (65 mm) we will make the outer and inner frames of the gate and fix them with each other with metal strips.
	Let's start making rafters. Having made the first section, you can check how accurately it is made.
	After making sure that everything is done correctly, we will make the rest of the rafters and install them.
	We fix the vapor barrier and nail the crate.
	We used ondulin as a roofing material.
	The frame was sheathed with OSB.
	Inserted plastic windows. The gate frames were welded from a profile pipe 40 × 25 mm and, observing fire safety precautions, welded to the frame.
	This is how the garage turned out.
	Swing gates are easier to manufacture, but not very convenient. There were cases when a strong gust of wind tore the sash from the locking device, which led to damage to the car body. Therefore, now you can often find various devices that close the entrance.

Arrangement of a garage with an attic

If the dimensions of the building allow, then the attic space can be converted into an attic. Of course, it would be best to provide for an attic at the design stage, but this is far from always the case, because the need for additional usable space arises during the operation of the premises.

Refurbishment process

One of the points that will have to be taken into account is the placement of the stairs and cutting out part of the ceiling for the passage so as not to violate its load-bearing capacity, which is not always possible. If this happens in your case, then you can make an extension to the existing building, through which you will rise to the living quarters.

In some cases, gases from a running engine enter the room on the second floor. This can be especially felt when starting a cold engine (especially diesel). Therefore, ventilation must be provided in the garage itself. It is also necessary to install a door to the living room.

Everything is taken into account when planning

If the manufacture of the attic is planned in advance, then the project already provides for where and how the staircase will be installed. In order to maximize the use of the available area, the roof is made broken.

How to insulate?

The living space should be warm, and if the garage is not insulated, then it will be necessary to deal not only with the walls of the attic, but also with the floor. First, let's talk about the walls, discussing the basic rules of insulation.

	Experts strongly recommend using a nylon thread, as it will save the insulation from sagging and slipping. A kind of web is made from the thread, which is stretched and securely fixed. It is important to remember that not the entire attic is insulated, but only the living space.
	When working with the walls of the attic, the insulation is first laid, and then the thread is pulled. The same is done with the ceiling, if then it will not be possible to lay the insulation on top. It is important to note that the minimum layer of insulation to be laid should not be less than 200 mm. In areas with severe winters, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the insulation to 300 mm.
	When laying the insulation, it is important to take care that there are no cold bridges left. As for mineral wool, it can accumulate water in itself, so opinions differ on the advisability of its use. Many people prefer to use penoplex, as it is not hygroscopic.
	To do this, the next row of insulation is laid in such a way that it overlaps the seams of the laid material.
	At the joints, it is necessary to glue the vapor barrier. For this, it is best to use silver reinforced tape. It is not only durable, but also sticks well.
	In the attic, the vapor barrier is mounted with a reverse overlap, so its installation is carried out from top to bottom. Reverse overlap means that the next layer of vapor barrier will lie on top of the layer. Thus, the vapors rising from the bottom of the room will not go to the joints, but to the top of the roof and will be ventilated due to ventilation.
	After installing the insulation from the side of the room (as well as from the outside), counter rails must be nailed.
	On the ceiling, the role of the counter-rail and the crate will be performed by boards with a thickness of 25 mm. The board can perform such a dual function only on a flat ceiling.
	The scheme of the roofing pie of the attic roof will help to present everything in detail.

Video: the nuances and technology of mansard roof insulation

As for the methods of floor insulation, the only limitation in the choice of material may be its large weight.

Video: ways to insulate the attic floor

Is it possible to make a garage for two cars?

If there are 2 cars in the family, then the frame can be made such that even 4 cars can fit in the garage. In this case, you will have to calculate the dimensions and bearing capacity of the material used, let it be wood or metal. The following video demonstrates the construction process of such a structure.

Video: building a frame garage for 2 cars

Building a frame is cheaper, but such a structure cannot be called a budget option. Subject to the construction technology of such a structure, it will serve the owner and his car for decades.

Every car owner dreams of a small cozy garage. This dream is easy to turn into reality with your own hands by building a garage yourself.

Construction features

Before you start making a garage, you need to carefully consider and disassemble the construction plan. First of all, you need to obtain a building permit.

Pay special attention to the following documents:

• SNiP 2.07.01-89 “Urban planning. Planning and development of urban and rural settlements”;
• SNiP 21.01.97 "Fire safety of buildings and structures".

If fire regulations are not met, then the building can be declared illegal and demolished.

You also need to decide what kind of building will be. It is divided into several types:

• temporary - has a short service life;
• mobile - requires a frame structure;
• combined - suitable for subsiding soils;
• capital - has a long service life, but will be expensive.

It is necessary to consider protection against intruders. It is better to spend money on an alarm system than to calculate the losses due to stolen property and a stolen car later.

Dimensions

In order to calculate the required dimensions, you should decide on the number and size of machines that will "live" in the building. You should also understand whether any other things will be stored in the garage. It is necessary to consider whether a large car will be bought in the near future. For example, if in the near future the owner is going to purchase a large truck, then building a passenger car is pointless, it is better to immediately consider the option of building a large garage.

For one car, the size will be calculated based on its dimensions. To this value you need to add half a meter on each side. This is necessary for a comfortable exit from the car and free movement around the garage. It should be remembered that with such small sizes for tires and various devices there will be no room. Therefore, it is worth increasing the length by 3 meters and adding a few more meters to the width. The height of the building must be more than half a meter from the height of the car.

All measurements are best done with the trunk open.

For several cars, it will be more difficult to calculate the size. Between them you need to create a distance of a fully open door, you can add 30-40 cm for comfortable parking. Between the wall and the door, the distance should be more than half a meter. The front and rear of the vehicle must be positioned so that a person can pass freely. The distance should be left at about one meter.

As for the gate, here you need to take the width of the car and add 60 cm on both sides. If there are two cars, then it is better to take the width of the gate from 2.5 meters and 20 cm in reserve on each side. The height of the building is calculated in the same way as in the case of a single machine.

These were examples of the simplest small boxes. If the owner wants to use the garage space not only for storing his "iron horse", but also for other purposes, it will be enough to calculate the dimensions of the items and take into account the space for a free approach to them. Then add the data obtained to the existing dimensions of the garage, which were calculated from above.

A drawing will help determine the dimensions., it is performed on paper or in a special program. For advice, you can turn to professionals, they will help and tell you how best to fulfill this or that idea. You can take the finished scheme. The main thing is its presence. The drawing is very important for subsequent work.

Location selection

If the garage is located in a summer cottage, you can consider the option of adding a structure to the house. There is no need to obtain permission here, construction does not require special conditions, because such a building is considered part of the house. Here it is possible to make the exit as close to the gate as possible or immediately to the street.

You will have to tinker with a detached type of garage. The SNiP states that there must be a distance of at least one meter between the garage and the boundary of the site if there are no buildings on neighboring land plots. In the case when they are, then the distance should be at least 6 meters. When erecting a building, make sure that there are no sewer pipes, heating pipes, water pipes and power lines nearby. Construction in lowlands should be avoided - this can lead to flooding. The best option would be a small hill.

If there is not enough space on the site, then the way out of the situation is to build a garage underground. Departure must be done on the street. It is impossible to have a garage directly under the house itself; it would be more rational to make an extension to the strip foundation. The area under which the building is located should not be used for the installation of structures with a foundation depth of more than 55 cm. But if there are underground springs or wetlands at the site of the future building, then it is better to refuse construction, such soil will require an extremely expensive drainage system.

The premises must be located as close as possible to the exit and the motorway, but without sharp turns.

If there is no cottage, but a garage is needed, you can buy a privatized plot of land in the city. After that, having received permission, start construction. This process is very lengthy, so be patient. You should choose a place as close as possible to the house, but you need to be prepared for the fact that there may not be free land for building within the city, but only on the outskirts or outside the city. Such a garage needs careful protection from intruders.

Design Options

There are many types of garages, for every taste and budget. The simplest and cheapest options are “shell” and “pencil case”. They can be easily made with your own hands, and the “shell” can even be moved. But they are not durable.

The next type is one-story, it can be made with a pit or a hozblok. In the city, most often they build a monolithic version, and although it does not look very attractive, it is very durable. No thief will be able to get into it. If the garage is located in a summer cottage, then a panel frame garage can be an inexpensive option. It is built many times faster than monolithic and brick.

A two-story building can serve not only for storing cars, but also suitable for living in the summer. The residential floor should be warm, equipped with light, a toilet and a kitchen. And the second floor with a gable roof can turn into a cozy attic.

The garage can also be an extension to the main house. The advantages of such a building are that you do not need to think additionally about heating and other communications, the entrance to the extension can be made directly from home. But a significant disadvantage is that exhaust gases enter the house upon arrival and departure of a car. This option is suitable for those owners who have not completed the main house, because an extension to an already finished building requires large investments and thorough preparation.

For the construction of an underground room, several conditions must be met:

• When building a deep garage, its waterproofing is considered the biggest problem. It will require the arrangement of a drainage system for the roof of the garage and enhanced waterproofing of all supporting structures.
• The garage roof frame must be made using concrete slabs with a mandatory support system.
• The room must have an emergency exit in the event of a house collapse or fire.
• After choosing a garage design, you should decide on the material and find good suppliers of all the necessary attributes for construction.

materials

The market offers a huge range of quality materials that will last a long time. Each has its own pros and cons, you should remember this and choose the option with which it will be comfortable to work.

Polycarbonate is a lightweight and cheap material, but should only be used for a small garage. For example, for shells.

If the owner prefers metal, then you can opt for sandwich panels or corrugated board. Sandwich panels in a section resemble a sandwich: there is a heater between two metal sheets. Construction is carried out in a very short time, and the design is lightweight and lends itself to any upgrades. Their price is very low, and installation can be carried out at any time of the year. But such material is short-lived, the metal frame requires rust treatment, and the wooden base must be treated with antiseptic substances.

Decking is a cheap, high-quality and beautiful material. Garages from corrugated board are built quite quickly. You should pay attention to the brand: it is better to choose S-20 or PS 0.5 mm thick. In no case should you take grades -8, these sheets will not last long due to poor wind resistance and low frost resistance.

A red brick construction will be much more reliable than a metal one. Such material has high frost resistance, low thermal conductivity. From an aesthetic point of view, brickwork looks pretty decent, but the material is expensive.

The foam block is cheap and light in weight, so one person can build from it. The only catch is that the gray blocks don't look very attractive. This problem can be solved with the help of finishing materials.

Gas silicate blocks are gaining great popularity. Despite their low weight, they have high strength, they are easy to process. Also, the blocks have low thermal conductivity, do not require additional treatment with antiseptics. With such material, you can not be afraid of the appearance of mold, bacteria and fungus.

According to environmental characteristics, gas silicate blocks are on a par with natural materials.

Minus gas silicate blocks - high water absorption. The plaster layer on the walls can crack and flake off. This problem can be solved by treating the walls with penetrating primers. Since blocks are a weak basis for fasteners, it will be problematic to fix massive objects. They do not have high frost resistance. The material has high rates of free lime, which allows you to activate the corrosion processes of metal inclusions: fittings, pipelines, frames and others.

Another artificial, but environmentally friendly material is cinder block. You can buy it or make it yourself. The second will require a vibroforming machine. When buying, you should pay attention to the filler. It is better to choose crushed stone, sawdust, shell rock, expanded clay. A cinder block garage is not afraid of natural disasters, it has a high fire safety, and is easily repaired. With this material, you can vary the thickness of the walls. In addition, it is not amenable to biological destruction, its price is quite small, and its service life is about 100 years. Reduces the dignity of the cinder block unpresentable appearance, complex laying of pipes and cables, high thermal conductivity.

Arbolite has been known since the times of the USSR. It is light in weight and has low thermal conductivity. It is a flame-retardant material, resistant to stretching. He is not afraid of cracks and deformations during foundation movements. It is immune to rot and mildew. The material is distinguished by high frost resistance. It is also easy to fix various designs on it. In such a garage there will be good sound absorption. Of the minuses - a high coefficient of water absorption - from 40 to 85%, and a rather high price.

Expanded clay block will be an assistant in the embodiment of bold design and architectural ideas. Almost all types of finishes, both internal and external, are suitable for it. The material has low thermal conductivity, it is strong and durable, with high sound insulation. The vapor permeability of the blocks creates a favorable microclimate inside the building. The process of building a garage will move quickly due to the large size of the block. And simple production contributes to an affordable price.

The downside of expanded clay blocks is the formation of cold bridges, but with the help of cladding and additional thermal insulation, the problem can be solved. The material has low water resistance, is quite heavy and requires a strong foundation, but this building material cannot be used as a foundation.

A more natural material is wood. The material is inexpensive, beautiful and allows you to make bold design decisions. With the help of various impregnations, fire resistance can be achieved. Minus - a short service life and high thermal conductivity.

Railway sleepers are bars made of trees. A special blend that works as an antiseptic helps protect your garage from rot, bacteria, sun, moisture and small rodents. You can buy sleepers at the nearest railway department, where the tracks are being repaired. A garage made of such material will turn out to be dry and warm, able to withstand even an earthquake. But you should never build a garage from new sleepers. The smell of creosote is very dangerous, it can cause chemical burns and poisoning. The period of their use in the air should be 12-30 years, during this period the mixture is washed off and loses its unpleasant odor.

The methods of manufacturing and processing sleepers are different, some products are impregnated through, while others are 2.75 centimeters. It is better to use the last option. Such a building requires careful processing inside, which reduces the risk of contact with creosote residues. Outside, it is necessary to make a well-ventilated facade.

Many building materials do not have high frost resistance, so the garage needs to be insulated. The cheapest insulation is foam. It is very easy to install. But you need to remember that this is a fragile material that wears out quickly.

Another cheap insulation is mineral wool. It is safe for health, has high thermal insulation and a high level of sound absorption. Such material must be covered with an additional layer of vapor barrier.

A more serious insulation is reflective thermal insulation. The material consists of a layer of heat insulator, covered with a metallized film on top. Of the advantages - low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation, low weight, immunity to moisture. This material is easy to install. The disadvantage is that the material has been used not so long ago and all its properties have not been studied. It is only known that this insulation is susceptible to corrosion.

Basalt cardboard is a durable material that is highly resistant to temperature extremes, deformation and moisture. The material has low heat capacity and good sound absorption, is not afraid of fire. It is not cheap, but very high quality and will last for many years.

In addition, heat-insulating paint and “warm” plaster will help to insulate the garage.

Finishing outside the building should combine resistance to external environmental influences and have a presentable appearance. The modern market offers a wide range of options that meet these conditions. The simplest and cheapest ways are jointing, plastering, siding. More expensive ways are wooden lining, natural or artificial stones.

If the garage is two-story, the space between the first and second floors is covered with reinforced concrete slabs. It is desirable to do this with a hollow-core slab, because it is easier to install and low in price.

Roof covering materials can be divided into two groups: soft and hard. The former are suitable for a flat roof, and the latter for a gable roof.

The soft ones are:

• Flexible tiles. The material serves up to 55 years, is resistant to corrosion and decay and can be of any color. It is better not to use the material in the northern regions - under the influence of frost, it becomes brittle.
• Ruberoid. Service life - about 15 years. The material is cheap, resistant to frost and sun exposure.

• The self-leveling roof serves 22 years, is easily and quickly installed, and can be repaired. The application surface must be perfectly smooth.
• The built-up rolled roof (gidroizol, stekloizol) has been in operation for about 50 years. The material is durable, does not burn, it has good sound insulation, and is immune to temperature extremes. The only negative is the high price.

The hard ones are:

• Reinforced concrete slab - has a long service life, suitable for flat roofs, can withstand a lot of weight. On such a roof, you can even set up a garden.
• Flat slate - easy to install, inexpensive, does not lose its qualities in any climatic conditions. Its very easy to fix.

• Polycarbonate - serves for about 25 years, does not burn and does not react with solvents, low in price. Such material is easy to install, resistant to temperature extremes, but under their influence it can slightly change shape.
• Seam roof - does not require a powerful frame, durable, resistant to mechanical damage and temperature extremes. Cons of the material - high price, difficult installation, low sound absorption.

• SIP-3 is used for overhead power lines;
• SIP-4 is resistant to ultraviolet rays;
• SIP-5 is suitable for temperate and cold climates, resistant to high temperatures.

For the storage and safe movement of building materials, wooden pallets are required. A good choice would be a pallet made of white acacia, birch or boxwood.

To save money, you can buy a used pallet, the main thing is good quality.

Construction process: main stages

After creating a drawing, choosing building materials and compiling step-by-step instructions, construction can begin.

"Penal" and "shell" do not require a solid foundation. First you need to make several separate sections and then assemble them.

Assembly steps:

• it is necessary to drill technological holes in the structure;
• cover the finished elements with an anti-corrosion agent and paint them;
• assemble the segments into a common structure and fix;
• protect and paint all welding defects.

Electricity is available in the garage. To do this, a lamp and two sockets are installed, then the wires are passed through the corrugation. For work, copper wires with double insulation are taken.

The construction of a more complex structure begins with the installation of a strong foundation. For a garage, options such as a monolithic slab, pile material, tape shallow or buried foundation are suitable. If a pit or cellar is planned, then the best choice is a recessed tape. A garage with a quality foundation will last a long time and will not bring problems, so more attention should be paid to this stage.

Separately, it is worth considering the construction of the pit. The size depends on the car itself. For a passenger car, a width of about 70 cm is suitable, for a truck, you need to add 20-25 cm to the standard size. The height depends on the height of the owner of the garage, but, in any case, it is better to make the garage a little deeper.

An important element is the plinth, its height ranges from 0.5 to 2 meters. There are two types of plinth: protruding and sinking. The first option is more elegant, but it will require the construction of an additional ebb along the protruding upper edge - this prevents moisture from entering. The second option is more practical and the building receives maximum protection from moisture.

When building walls, two methods are used, it all depends on the chosen material. The first way is block building. With it, the garage will not need to be heavily insulated, but additional finishing on the outside will be required. The second way is wireframe. The frame is made of a metal profile pipe or a wooden beam. The advantage of this method is the rapid construction of the premises.

The next step is preparing the gate for installation. First you need to take measurements. It is necessary to measure the opening, paying attention to the distance from the right edge to the left. It is also necessary to measure the height of the lintel.

There are various types of gates for garages: simple swing, sectional, automatic or manual. Most car owners prefer sectional. Such products are very comfortable, take up less space, sealed and strong. But they are high in price and have a complex device.

Before equipping the gate, you need to carefully read the instructions and properly prepare the opening. If the material is light, the opening is reinforced with a special metal frame. For a brick garage, such a frame is not required.

The room needs to be vacated, this will help to cope with the assembly and installation of the gate much faster and easier.

The next stage depends on the number of floors: if the garage is two-story, then it is necessary to overlap between the first and second floors with a reinforced concrete slab and re-erect the walls.

When building a roof, you need to be careful and observe safety precautions. The easiest way is a flat roof with a slight slope, about 15 cm. So it will be better to go down and drain the precipitation. The only disadvantage of such a roof is the lack of an attic.

The use of frame technology will significantly reduce the cost of building a garage. After all, the small mass of the building reduces the requirements for the foundation, and the use of boards and oriented strand boards (OSB) as the main building material reduces delivery costs. After all, you can bring boards and OSB in a small car with a low carrying capacity, and to deliver bricks, sand and cement in the right quantities, you will need a serious truck and a crane with a lifting capacity of at least 2 tons. In this article, we will tell you about how to build a frame garage with your own hands from choosing a site and creating a project to roofing and connecting communications.

Choosing a place for a garage

An ideal place for a garage would be a platform on a hillock near the house. The hillock will protect the garage, the inspection hole and the car from the water that has risen during a heavy downpour. If there is no such site near the house, then you will have to choose a place, focusing on proximity to the road and elevation relative to ground level. Never build a garage in hollows and depressions, otherwise even a little rain will cause the water level in it to rise. It is desirable that a 220 or 380 volt line pass next to the garage, this will facilitate construction and equip the garage with electric heating.

Create a project

The creation of a garage construction project has the following goals:

• determination of the sequence of construction stages;
• determining the course of action during each stage;
• determining the amount of materials needed to build a garage.

If you are drafting a project yourself, then you will have to carefully consider the entire process of building a garage, from the supply and storage of material to the length and order of installation of frame boards. It helps a lot in this drawing, with strict adherence to scale. With it, you can determine the dimensions of the garage, the best ways to stiffen the structure, the length of the load-bearing boards and the number of fasteners. There are many different programs (for example, AutoCAD) that facilitate the design of any structure, but they all require a certain amount of experience. Therefore, it is easier to get by with a paper drawing and an explanatory note to it. Or use the services of professional design engineers or builders. In this case, the project will take into account various little things that an unprepared person does not even know about. For example, the choice of wood by moisture, the choice of boards by width, the features of construction from raw boards, the assembly order of the wall frame, and so on.

Material selection

Most often, garages are built from unplaned boards with a moisture content of 12–14%, but lumber of natural moisture is also often used. The latter will cost a little less, but a garage made of such boards cannot be sheathed for finishing in the first year, which leads to an overrun of the material. Therefore, experienced builders use only well-dried boards.

As load-bearing elements, a bar with a section of 100x100 mm or a board with a section of 50x250 mm is used. As an internal frame of the walls, a board with a section of 25x100 mm is used. For insulation, foam plastic or mineral wool up to 5 cm thick is used, and in cold regions up to 10 cm. For external cladding, waterproof OSB 15–20 mm thick, wagon board or metal corrugated board are used. For interior cladding, fiberboard, plywood 5-10 mm thick or the same OSB thickness are used. This combination of materials allows you to create a durable and inexpensive garage.

Foundation construction

Having drawn up a project or drawing and tied it to the terrain, bring in all the necessary materials to create the foundation. When creating a foundation, keep in mind that a viewing hole significantly increases the functionality of the garage, allowing not only to store, but also to service and repair the car. If you don’t need a viewing hole, then you can choose and build a foundation using the information from the articles Which foundation is best for a house made of timber - calculation features and Attaching a timber to different types of foundation.

If you decide to build a pit, then the technology for creating the foundation will have to be changed by digging a foundation pit under it. Determine the depth of the pit based on your height and needs. You can make a lying pit, equipping it with a cart, you can make a sitting or standing pit. The only difference is in height and in the fact that in a standing pit you can perform any kind of work, in a sitting pit you cannot normally remove the engine and gearbox, and a lying pit is suitable only for minor car maintenance. Here are the approximate depths of the pit and the pit for it:

• recumbent 50/80 cm;
• seated 130/170 cm;
• standing 170/210 cm.

For concreting the pit, use the same technology as for pouring concrete grillage. In the pit, you can provide niches for the tool. The width of the finished pit should be 5-10 cm less than the distance between the inner side of the wheels of the same axle. On the surface of the pit, fix corners or steel pipes that will not allow the car to fall into it.

If you are going to install iron gates, then provide fasteners for them. Depending on the gate model, it can be either 2 vertical poles with fasteners (canopies), or 4-6 poles. If you are going to install roller shutters, then you can use wooden walls and a ceiling for their fastening.

Delivery and storage of material

Having prepared the foundation and letting it stand, bring in the boards. The frame structure allows the use of boards of natural moisture, but you must understand that by saving on them, you will seriously lose on construction time. After all, it will not be possible to sheathe the garage for finishing due to the very large shrinkage of the board of natural humidity. Therefore, it is desirable to purchase a dried board with a moisture content of 12-14%. To store such a board, you will need a canopy that is protected from the rain. It can be made from wooden bars or aluminum tubes and polyethylene. Be sure to provide ventilation boards under a canopy.

First you need to assemble the side walls on the ground. To do this, in accordance with the project, cut the vertical, horizontal and diagonal elements, and then proceed with the assembly. You can perform this operation yourself. To fasten the boards to each other, use metal corners and powerful self-tapping screws. These accessories are sold in most hardware stores. Be sure to check the corners of the edge boards, because the shape of the garage depends on them. The optimal distance between vertical boards is 70–100 cm, and between horizontal boards 120–150 cm. Pay special attention to the mounting holes, because even a small mistake will lead to the fact that you will not be able to install the wall in place the first time.

The installation of the wall must be carried out by two or three people, and if the length of the wall is more than 6 meters, or the height is more than 3 meters, then you will either have to call more people or use a crane.

If you can't gather more than two people or use a crane, then first assemble a box for each wall, consisting of two vertical and two horizontal boards. You can install such a box by two people. Install both side boxes, then connect them with vertical boards to form the back box. Then assemble the front box. Now you can install portable small-sized scaffolding and fill all the boxes with vertical and horizontal boards. Remember, vertical boards can only be cut if you plan to install a window. In all other cases, they must be integer. But cut the horizontal boards based on the distance between the vertical boards. Connect the entire structure using corners and self-tapping screws. Do not forget to install diagonal boards in every fifth cell.

Roof installation

If possible, invite an experienced carpenter or roofer to create a roof, because one article can only give general principles for this work. First install the boards (logs) of the ceiling at a distance of 80–140 cm from each other. If you plan to use the attic as a pantry, then the distance must be reduced, otherwise increase. To install a log in them and the upper horizontal boards of the frame, cut holes whose width is equal to the thickness of the board, and the depth is equal to half the width of the board. Thanks to this, the logs will become flush with the upper edge of the frame. The lags should protrude sideways by 50-60 centimeters. After installing the roof rafters, you will use a circular saw or chain saw to cut them to the required length.

If you work together and there is no way to call for help, then instead of the log you will have to install a complex structure (triangle), which includes logs, rafters and vertical supports. In this case, you can do without cuts in the boards and put these triangles directly on the frame, which will greatly facilitate installation. After that, install a vertical board that connects the upper parts of the triangles, as well as a bottom board that connects the lower parts to each other. Be sure to install at least 2 (preferably 4) diagonal braces to protect the roof from strong winds.

Sheathing and insulation

For sheathing, use corrugated board. Start sheathing from the bottom, laying the sheets with an overlap, so that during rain the water will drain without getting inside. When sheathing a garage with a wagon board or its analogues, lay the board horizontally, so it will look more beautiful. If you decide to sheathe the OSB garage, then the sheets will need to be adjusted so tightly and clearly that the gap between them in any place does not exceed 0.5 mm, and after the sheathing is completed, the joints must be covered with a mixture of PVA and fine wood dust.

Lastly, sheathe the roof, do not forget to install gutters. It is desirable that the roof metal profile protrudes 30-40 cm beyond the walls, this will increase the protection of the walls from water. Having finished with the outer skin, proceed to the insulation, for this, place pieces of foam plastic or mineral wool cut to size into the wall cells, then sew them up with plywood or OSB. Fiberboard can also be used, but its strength is insufficient, so the material will quickly become scratched. To insulate the attic, it is enough to lay the insulating material in the cells formed by the lags, this is several times easier than insulating the roof along the rafters.

Gate installation

If you install metal gates, then the hinges on them must fully correspond to the hinges on the supporting elements. For the installation of roller shutters, you need to invite a specialist. Therefore, the best choice for a frame garage is a wagon board gate. Even the most modern steel gates will not help against car theft, so their function is rather decorative. The most beautiful garage is obtained if it is sheathed with a wagon board and a gate is made from it, reinforcing each leaf from the inside with two horizontal and one diagonal board. Decorative hinges (canopies), which are sold in hardware stores, will add a special touch to the garage.

Power supply and heating

If it is possible to connect the garage to the power supply line, then be sure to get the technical conditions and install the meter in accordance with them. This will save you from problems with the electricity supplier. For heating insulated garages, wall-mounted infrared electric heaters are the most effective. Be sure to install a separate circuit breaker and temperature controller for heaters.

Many vehicle owners are wondering how to quickly build a garage from inexpensive building materials. A car that stands in the open air is exposed to various atmospheric influences. This not only burns out the paintwork, but also quickly corrodes the body, assemblies and parts under the hood.

The cheapest garage is the metal “shell” famous in the 90s or a ready-made prefabricated metal one. But this is not at all the best option, since condensate collects there, there are temperature drops, which also negatively affects the car, but it is better to build a warm room.

Today there are many building materials for the construction of the building. They differ from each other not only in cost, but also in specific gravity, which determines the type of foundation for the structure. The lighter the structure, the less powerful the foundation can be made.

Foundation laying

Under a heavy structure, it is better to make a strip foundation; for a light one, it is enough to make a columnar one. The only thing that must not be forgotten is that even if an inexpensive columnar foundation is being built, it must be laid to the freezing depth. In our latitudes, this is at least 80 cm. A columnar foundation, of course, will reduce the cost of building a garage. Some argue that the foundation can be laid in a trench 40 cm deep. But then it can be excruciatingly painful when, after a cold winter, the structure “leads” due to the fact that the foundation will crack and begin to collapse. This effect may not be noticed immediately - only after a few years.

Before you start building, you need to carefully calculate all the costs and weigh your financial capabilities.

Only after that you can decide what to build a cheap option from.

Construction materials

What is needed for construction

1. Used brick - the material is quite cheap, warm and reliable. But it is worth considering that often its surface does not have an attractive or even decent appearance. This means that walls made of such material will either have to be plastered or covered with other finishing materials. And this will make the whole structure more expensive than some of the new materials.
2. Sandwich panels are a modern building material. It is distinguished by low weight, ease and speed of installation of structures from it. Most types of these panels do not require exterior and interior decoration. These are three-layer slabs with an internal insulation layer and a coating on the outer sides of metal, expanded polystyrene or magnesite board. They are quite large (from 1000 × 2000 mm), which speeds up the installation of structures made of them. It is worth noting that for the construction of such panels you need to make a frame. It can be made of wood, metal and even reinforced concrete structures. The most commonly used metal frame. It is strong and durable, does not give, unlike wood, shrinkage and shrinkage. And yet you can build a frame out of wood. Such wall material as "sandwiches" allows you to carry out all stages of the construction of the structure yourself.
3. Decking can also be attributed to those building materials from which you can build a garage at low cost. This design is arranged on a metal or wooden frame. In this case, you must not forget to take into account the costs of warming the building. Since without wall and ceiling insulation, it will be the same tin can with all its shortcomings as the finished prefabricated one.
4. OSB boards are also popular today among those who build lightweight structures. The advantage of OSB is that it is not affected by moisture like other lumber. OSB acquired this property due to its three-layer structure, where in the outer layers the chips are located horizontally on the surface of the plate, and in the inner layer - vertically. From this material, you can build a fairly cheap room for a car. Its construction will not take much time, because. also performed on the frame, and the dimensions of the plate are quite large. The spans between the racks of the frame should not exceed 1.2 m, because OSB-plates - the material is quite flexible. Large spans will make the structure fragile. The thickness of the wall plates must be at least 18 mm. On sale there are also plates with a thickness of 22 mm. Outside, the walls of this material can be finished with siding. But this operation should not be done immediately if there are not enough funds. It is allowed to begin with covering the walls with plastic wrap, because OSB boards resist moisture well. Warming from the inside is not necessary. But if you still want to insulate the room, you can do it over time, when additional financial opportunities appear. Inside the room, there will be a space between the racks of the frame that can be filled with mineral wool or foam.

To build this structure with your own hands, it is not necessary to own a profession. It is enough to have elementary skills: the ability to work with a hammer, screwdriver, electric saw.

The first and obligatory stage is the creation of the project. For this, you can also not resort to the services of a designer. After all, the garage is a simple rectangular box. The best option is 4x6 m with a height of 2 m. If you build it for a minibus, then you can make the width and length a little larger (although this is not necessary), and the height - 2.5 m.

Construction project

To optimize construction costs, there is nothing left but to build a frame garage. In accordance with the dimensions, you need to calculate the number of racks. At the same time, do not forget that the spans between them must correspond to the width of the wall panels, taking into account the fact that they are fastened end-to-end, and the sandwich panels are overlapped (they have special locks for this purpose).

Today it is prestigious to have automatic lifting gates, but they are expensive. Therefore, if you decide to meet the minimum budget, then choose the cheaper option. You can purchase the same in appearance, but with a mechanical (manual) lifting of the gate leaf. But still, this element should not be neglected.

Automatic lifting gates

There is another constructive element that will help optimize the cost of construction. Instead of a gable roof, which requires the construction of a rather complex truss system, you can make a single-pitched roof. Under it, the truss system is much simpler. But do not neglect its strength, as this may affect the strength of the entire structure. The slope of a shed roof must be at least 25 ° so that an excessive snow load is not created on the structure and it does not collapse.

During construction, one should not forget that the floor must be above ground level so that neither rain nor ground water gets inside. To do this, it is not necessary to immediately make a concrete screed. You can strew the floor with rubble and tamp it down. Over time, when funds appear, it will be possible to make a screed on this crushed stone base.

Video: foam block construction

Sometimes new vehicle owners start thinking about how to quickly build a garage when rains and then colds are coming. You can quickly build a frame and sheathe it. This will take 2-3 weeks. But it is important to remember that the foundation, which is mandatory for any stationary structure, must be defended for at least 3 weeks until it gains 70% strength. Therefore, if you want to build a room for the rainy and cold season, you need to start work in the spring, as soon as the ground has completely thawed.