White royal pelargonium. Proper care of royal geraniums at home

Engineering systems 28.05.2019
Engineering systems

Royal pelargonium is a beautifully flowering houseplant. The flower is often called geranium, but this is an erroneous name. With a general similarity, these are 2 different plants.

Royal Pelargonium belongs to the genus Pelargonium, which has 250 plant species. Most members of the genus are undemanding plants, which develop well in rooms, open ground and on balconies.

Pelargonium royal, or large-flowered, is often grown in a flowerpot in room conditions. This is due to the capriciousness of culture. The flowering period of Pelargonium grandiflorum is much shorter than that of geraniums, and improper care leads to its complete absence.

Neat bushes with large flowers serve as a decoration for any room. Pelargonium flower resembles viola flowers. Viola is called pansies. The upper petals of the flower are larger and have spots and strokes of dark color. The lower 3 petals, arranged in a fan, may be a lighter shade and without dark spots. Color range: pink, purple, white, burgundy and red. The diameter of the flowers is 7-8 cm, and in some species it reaches 15-16 cm. They are simple or double. The edge of the petal can be wavy or corrugated.

The plant is a compact shrub 50-70 cm high. Pelargonium branches well, but the branches are rather fragile, they should be handled carefully so as not to damage them.

Pelargonium grandiflorum has serrated and rough leaves. They are shaped like maple leaves, the colors are solid green. The royal pelargonium lacks the smell characteristic of geraniums.

Pelargonium is planted in balcony containers, but it feels better in cramped pots. Therefore, it is better to plant it in hanging planters. One of the varieties of the flower, royal geranium is called angelic pelargonium, it is not higher than 30 cm.

Home care

Royal Pelargonium blooms less than other types of geraniums, 2-4 months. At the same time, the plant is so capricious that if the conditions for its wintering are not met, then it will not bloom. On winter days, pelargonium should organize additional lighting and temperature. environment+15 °С. This culture does not like rainy and windy weather. Therefore, it is better to grow it on a balcony, veranda or terrace, where there is no wind and a lot of fresh air.

Pelargonium royal loves lighting, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. Any bright places and windows will suit her, except for the north side.

AT winter period the culture needs to rest, the pots are set in a bright and cool place, they make additional lighting. Otherwise, the shoots will stretch and the plant will not give buds.

To ensure the flower grows normally, it should be regularly and properly watered. The culture does not tolerate waterlogging. In summer, the soil in the pot should be moist. Watering, focusing on upper layer soil. If it is dry, then the plant can be watered. In winter, water 2 times a month. The water is defended, its temperature should be room temperature or higher. Pelargonium is watered through the pan, she will take it herself right amount water. Before the appearance of buds, the leaves are sprayed 1-2 times a week.

All species of the genus Pelargonium do not like spacious pots. New planting dishes are chosen only 1.5 cm larger in diameter than the old one.

The soil mixture for planting royal pelargoniums consists of sod land, peat and sand. Fertilize the flower with a special fertilizer for pelargoniums. During the growing season, top dressing is applied 2 times a month, the rest of the time - 1 time per month.

Pruning Pelargonium grandiflorum

You can get a lush flowering bush with correct pruning. The main mistake of many beginner flower growers is pruning in the spring. Most best time for the formation of the crown of room pelargonium - late autumn and early winter.

Incorrect pruning leads to the growth of very long stems, due to which the bush loses its decorative effect.

For correct formation crowns must follow these rules:

  • pruning is done as close as possible to the place where the branch begins to grow;
  • shorten the branches with a pruner or a sharp disinfected knife at the level of the leaf node;
  • pinch the bushes with clean hands;
  • slices and places of pinching are treated with ground cinnamon or charcoal;
  • the stems growing inside the bush are cut off completely; cuttings can be made from them for planting pelargonium.

The plant should rest for at least 2-3 months. During this period, it can not be cut and pinched.

Reproduction and transplant

The plant does not like frequent transplants, because of them flowering becomes not plentiful and its period is reduced. Experienced flower growers recommend replanting the crop every 2-3 years. Transplantation is best done in the spring, after a dormant period.

You can propagate a flower in 2 ways:

  • stem cuttings;
  • seeds.

Seeds are best sown in spring. Seeds are purchased in specialized stores. They are sown in peat. Shoots appear within 7 days. After the appearance of the first leaves, the seedlings are transplanted into pots of a suitable diameter. So that the plant does not damage the roots and takes root faster, it is transplanted with a clod of earth.

Flower cuttings can be propagated throughout the year. The material is the cuttings obtained by pinching the royal pelargonium. The cutting for planting should have a length of 5-7 cm and 2-3 leaves. The cut of the cutting is treated with charcoal or ground cinnamon. Planting material is preliminarily dried in the open air for 2-12 hours. The pot for planting the cutting should be small so that the plant does not grow a large root system, but forms a bush.

Since Pelargonium grandiflorum does not tolerate high humidity, cuttings should not be soaked in water to grow roots. In the water they turn black and disappear. Plants planted by cuttings bloom the following year.

Growing problems

The main problems that flower growers may face when breeding a crop:

  • stretching of the stems, the bush becomes unattractive, weakened, growth and budding stop;
  • high soil moisture leads to yellow leaves and their fall, to the black leg, as a result, the pelargonium disappears;
  • overdrying the earthy coma leads to yellowing of the leaves and the cessation of flowering;
  • the appearance of rust spots on the leaves is the first sign of an aphid or whitefly infestation, or sunburn, so the plant should be protected from direct sun rays.

Before planting the royal pelargonium, the pots should be washed with laundry soap, the used containers should be washed especially carefully. Pots should have one or more drainage holes. Clay containers are more suitable for pelargoniums.

A layer of drainage from clay shards is poured at the bottom of the pot. Cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand or a mixture of peat and perlite in equal amounts. Can be used peat tablets. Plants are transplanted into permanent pots in a mixture of soddy and leafy soil, peat and sand.

The capriciousness of royal pelargonium is not a reason to refuse to grow it. By following the rules of care, you can enjoy up to 4 months of its flowering.

The royal geranium, which is otherwise called pelargonium, has received such a majestic name for a reason. This plant is distinguished by its amazing beauty, elegance and grace. However, it also requires royal care. Unlike fellows of other varieties, this representative of the flora needs specific care and constant attention. If you do not give the flower the required, lush buds can never wait.

The beautiful royal is a native South America where the climate is humid and hot. That is why she feels great in warm rooms with high humidity. To Europe amazing flower brought only to late XVIII century. In the shortest possible time, he gained immense popularity among gardeners. From the same moment, breeders have been continuously working, as a result of which more and more new varieties of royal pelargonium are born. It is difficult to name the exact number of species known today.

At home, a noble representative of the flora grows to a height of 60-80 cm. Growing taller bushes is not considered appropriate, since flowers appear only at the highest points of growth. If a geranium reaches 1 m in height, it completely loses its decorative qualities. However, if you are a fan of the experiment, you can try to grow a 1.5 m high bush in the open field. It will be an excellent backdrop for undersized garden dwellers.


Description of the royal plant

home distinguishing feature royal geranium - chic inflorescences. In width, they can reach 25 cm. But in order to achieve such magnificence, it is necessary to ensure proper care of the plant. The more fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus you make during the preparation for flowering, the larger the buds will be. Usually there are inflorescences of medium size - about 15 cm.

All royals have oval spots in the central part of the petal. They are darker and more saturated than the rest of the areas. There are both classic and terry royal pelargoniums. The latter look more advantageous. Shades of buds amaze with their diversity. There are instances of yellow, dazzling white, purple, red, pink and even orange flowers.


The petals of plants are both flat concave and slightly wavy. Varieties of corrugated flowers of the royal plant are rare. The leaves are toothed, oval or rounded. Their surface is usually rough, quite pleasant to the touch. The shade of the leaves depends on the general condition of the royal. If the flower is healthy and provided with everything necessary, its foliage has a rich emerald color. The central trunk and all shoots are tightly covered. And if the plant feels bad, the foliage fades, and parts of the bush are exposed.

Unlike other geranium varieties, the royal individual has a rather short flowering period. As a rule, it does not exceed six months. A houseplant blooms in early spring.

Royal Pelargonium (video)

What conditions does the flower need?

Like all representatives of the nobility, the royal geranium makes high demands on the conditions of detention. To make your pet feel comfortable, you should follow 4 basic rules.

  1. Royal geranium absolutely does not tolerate both waterlogging and overdrying of the soil. In addition, it suffers from direct sunlight and winds. Therefore, experienced gardeners strongly do not recommend planting this flower in summer for the summer period. open ground. Unlike relatives, he will not be happy with such hardening. The only thing that can be done in the summer is to take out the pelargonium right in the pot on the balcony or garden. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the plant is in partial shade and does not stand in a draft. Geranium living on the windowsill needs shading in summer. If this is not done, sunburn may form on the leaves.
  2. Another rule that the gardener should write down in his diary: the royal individual should not experience a shortage of light throughout the year. Unlike zonal geraniums, which accumulate over the summer sunlight for the whole coming year and winter well even in rooms with poor lighting, the royal plant cannot live in the dark. With a lack of lighting, it stretches up, and also does not have the strength to lay buds for the next flowering. Therefore, for the lush flowering of a fastidious beauty, flower growers are advised to purchase special fluorescent lamps.
  3. In order for the geranium to begin to bloom, care must be taken to maintain a special temperature regime. In winter, the plant feels great at 12-15°C. In such conditions, it lays buds for flowering in the next season. If the temperature is elevated and exceeds 24 ° C, the flower begins to experience discomfort. At best, it stops blooming, at worst, it stops growth completely.
  4. Particular attention in the care of the royal specimen must be given to watering. It is necessary to choose the intensity of soil moisture taking into account the temperature regime. In summer, watering should be moderate and regular, in winter - sparing and rather rare. Experienced gardeners recommend not pouring liquid from above, but pouring it into the pan. This is due to the fact that royal geranium does not tolerate soil compaction quite well. For irrigation, it is better to take rainwater, or a clean settled liquid.


When and how to transplant a plant?

Unlike their counterparts, who endure the annual transplant to and from the garden, the royal specimen is not a fan of such movements. Better not disturb him with a transplant once again. You need to change the pot only if the overgrown root system no longer fits into the old one. Up to this point, you can limit yourself to only periodically adding fresh earth to the container.

It is recommended to transplant pelargonium once every 2 years. If this procedure is not performed in time, the plant may not bloom or there will be very few flowers on the bush. It is better to transplant as soon as possible. The optimal time is the beginning of February. After the flower buds begin to form, and it blooms.

The soil for the royal is no different from the soil that suits other members of the species. It can be prepared independently by mixing in equal proportions:

  • sod land;
  • peat;
  • deciduous land;
  • river sand.

Be sure to take care of creating a drainage layer. Otherwise, the plant risks dying due to stagnant water at the roots. Expanded clay, crushed stone, crushed sand can be used as drainage. Ceramic pots are best for growing hydrangeas. They provide an even distribution of air and maintain a suitable temperature of the earthen coma. After transplantation, attention to the flower should be increased.


What fertilizer does geranium need?

The need for fertilizers royal geranium is experiencing during the period of active growth, bud formation, flowering. Nutrients need to be applied every 2 weeks from late March to mid-November. It is better to use liquid top dressings, for example, a good remedy is a solution of iodine. To prepare it, 1 drop of the substance is added to 1 liter of water. About 50 ml of the prepared composition is carefully poured over the walls of the pot. When demolishing a larger amount of top dressing, there is a risk of damage to the root system.

Purchased mineral fertilizers can also be used to feed the plant. However, it is important to ensure that nitrogen does not predominate in their composition. Otherwise, the stems and leaves will grow actively, but the buds will become noticeably smaller. It is better to choose mixtures with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. They will provide long and abundant flowering.

It is not recommended to use fresh organics as fertilizers for geraniums. The royal plant simply does not perceive such top dressing.


When and how is pruning done?

Incorrect pruning is one of the most common beginner mistakes when growing royal geraniums at home. Most flower growers believe that the optimal time for this procedure is the beginning of spring. However, this opinion is erroneous. It is better if pruning is carried out immediately after flowering is completed, that is, in late August or early September. If you process the bush in the spring, next season it is unlikely to bloom.

It is optimal if pruning is carried out in 2 doses with an interval between sessions of 1-1.5 months. In this case, the royal person will experience less stress and endure the procedure more easily. After removing the excess parts of the plant, be sure to pamper the geranium with fertilizers.

If pruning is carried out correctly and on time, young shoots will begin to appear on the geranium in the fall. They must be pinched over 4-5 pairs of leaves. In this case, new stems will grow even more actively. Professional flower growers who form excellent exhibition specimens spend an average of 3-4 pinching per season. As a result, by spring, the decorative bush acquires a compact shape and blooms profusely. The number of pinches from amateur gardeners largely depends on the conditions of the plant. At the same time, do not forget: in any case, the last procedure must be carried out no later than at the beginning of February. If, during the winter period, the bush is very stretched out, it will be better if, instead of the final pinching, the overgrown shoots are pruned.

Proper care of geraniums (video)

Plant propagation methods

Cuttings are the simplest, most effective and common method of propagating royal geraniums. For it, you can use tops with 3-4 pairs of leaves obtained during pruning. It is necessary to know that the cuttings of this plant cannot be rooted in water. In conditions high humidity they do not grow roots, but only rot.

To propagate the bush, it is necessary to form cut points with charcoal, dry it a little and immediately plant the cuttings in the ground. The optimal composition of the soil: a mixture of equal parts of perlite and peat. It is recommended to immediately plant young plants in separate pots; peat cups can also be used. This will eliminate the mass death of green pets in the event that care and reproduction were carried out incorrectly.


After about 1-2 months, the plants will take root completely, after which they can be transplanted into a nutrient mixture consisting of sod and hardwood, sand and peat, mixed in equal proportions. It is not necessary to cover the cuttings with banks or polyethylene, it is enough to keep them in a warm room with moderate lighting, ensuring timely watering.

For lush flowering and full growth during the growing season, young bushes must be periodically fed. It is better to use mineral fertilizers with a low nitrogen content. During flowering, which in case of proper care occurs approximately 6-9 months after rooting, it is recommended to use fertilizers for flowering houseplants. You can buy them at any specialized store.

The royal individual, unlike other types of pelargonium, does not like to propagate by seeds. Usually, when using this method, the signs of doubleness and semi-doubleness of the finest mother varieties are not transmitted. However, if you are a fan of experiments, be sure to try growing marvelous geraniums from seeds. You may be able to create a new view.

Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Amateur flower growers who have become owners of a beautiful royal geranium are looking forward to the moment when a beautiful green pet will bloom. However, they often have to experience disappointment: instead of the most beautiful large inflorescences, the fastidious royal geranium gives only abundant foliage, and the rapidly growing shoots stretch out and spoil the whole look. Why is this happening? Most likely, when caring for the plant, the basic rules were violated:

  • the bush suffers from a lack of lighting or due to an incorrectly selected temperature regime;
  • the flower lives in a too large pot;
  • applied fertilizers have an unbalanced composition;
  • the transplant was not made on time;
  • pruning was performed in violation of the basic rules or was completely absent.

All reasons for the lack of flowering can be eliminated quite easily. After this is done, marvelous royalty will please your lush flowering.

What diseases and pests are dangerous for geraniums?

Like any other indoor plants, royal pelargonium is prone to diseases and pests. Usually, ailments attack a green pet due to violations of the conditions of detention. However, if you constantly monitor the plant and take action in time, the dangerous consequences of the invasion can be avoided.

  1. If the leaves of a room beauty turn yellow, she may suffer from a lack of moisture or nutritional deficiencies. The same symptom indicates too tight a pot and even overfeeding fertilizers with nitrogen.
  2. Have the leaves become limp and drooping, have mold or brown spots formed on them? Look for the cause in excessive watering. Excessive moisture can also provoke the appearance of depressed dark spots on the stems.
  3. The fall of the lower foliage, the exposure of the stem and the extension of the top of the bush are clear signs that the green pet is suffering from a lack of lighting. If an incorrectly chosen temperature regime, lush flowering of geraniums can not be expected.

Sick and oppressed plants become easy prey for pests. Royal pelargonium can be attacked by whiteflies, aphids,. Action must be taken immediately after uninvited guests are discovered. It is necessary to isolate the affected plant from other pets and treat its leaves with soapy water. If this does not help, spraying with insecticides is required.

If you turn to specialized literature, you can find out that royal pelargonium is also known under a number of other names - royal geranium, large-flowered pelargonium. For scientists, the name of the plant is more familiar as - Regal Pelargonium, Pelargonium grandiflorum. Pelargonium is a member of the Geraniaceae family and can grow up to 25–50 cm in height. However, this plant is most famous as an indoor flower, which can be explained by its long period flowering and unpretentious care. The reproduction of royal pelargonium is simple and effective, since cuttings are most often used for it.

Types and varieties of royal pelargonium

Zonal pelargoniums.

Tulip-shaped. Highly beautiful variety pelargonium. This subgroup got its name due to half-open flowers, shaped like mini-tulips. They are collected in dense inflorescences, resembling small boutonnieres. They were bred in the USA in the late 60s. Most of all I liked such varieties from this category as: Red Pandora, Lilian Andrea, Marbacka Tulpan, Emmafran Bengtsbo, Patricia Andrea.

Rosebud. The flowers of this variety look like roses, the petals of which are neatly folded into buds. BUT a large number of terry flowers in one inflorescence forms a beautiful, fluffy ball. Such rose pelargoniums appeared at the end of the nineteenth century, and have since been bred great amount their varieties.

Carnations. The flowers of such pelargoniums are framed by petals with jagged edges. One gets the impression that the bush is dotted with tiny carnations.

Cactus. An interesting and extremely rare group of pelargoniums, which was released at the end of the nineteenth century. Their peculiarity is that each petal is wrapped in a kind of bundle, from which the flower caps take on a slightly disheveled look.

Ivy Pelargoniums.

Ivy (ampel) pelargoniums have long occupied their niche among numerous species and varieties. Their peculiarity lies in the fact that their stems are not erect, but long and hanging down (their height can vary from 30 to 100 cm).

Unique.

Unique - "elder" among pelargoniums. In the second half of the 18th century, this specimen was bred with carved leaves, beautiful flowers and a fragrant smell. The view became especially widespread in the Victorian era, when almost no garden of the nobility could do without several representatives of this variety.

Fragrant pelargoniums.

Not everyone will like the smell of pelargonium, which it emits if you accidentally touch its leaves. But there are varieties that simply smell fragrant, filling the house with a variety of wonderful aromas. At first glance, these are completely nondescript plants, with rare, modest flowers. But this group is valued not for beauty, but for the ability to refresh and flavor the air. If you want to smell spruce or pine, you can put a pot of Orsett, Clorinda, Fernleaf, Fair Ellen in the room.

Care for royal pelargonium at home

Pelargonium loves good lighting However, it should be kept out of direct sunlight. If there is little light, then its inflorescences will be small. It can be located in any bright place in the apartment with the exception of the north side.

In winter, due to lack of light, pelargonium is kept at a low temperature (about 15 degrees). It must be placed in the light in a cool room so that the pelargonium rests. If she is not allowed to rest in the winter, then her shoots will stretch, and she will stop blooming, which over time can lead to the death of the plant.

Growing royal pelargonium implies careful attention to watering the plant, because if the soil dries out strongly, it will stop blooming. If the soil is too wet, then the pelargonium may begin to hurt. For irrigation use settled water at room temperature. It is necessary to water the flower when the top earthen layer is already dry. Additionally, you need to spray the leaves of pelargonium before it begins to bloom.

Pelargonium is planted in sod land, to which peat and sand are added. As additional fertilizers, products that contain a smaller amount of nitrogen are used.

In spring and summer, the plant is fed once a month.

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Watering royal pelargonium at home

As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not let the water stagnate, she is very afraid of him. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots began to rot, then the plant is almost impossible to save. And do not forget to pamper your beauty regularly. nutrients especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the dormant period, it is better to refuse top dressing.

Fertilizer for royal pelargonium at home

At home, geraniums can be fed with milk formula by dissolving 100 ml of milk in a liter of water. Use alternating with regular watering. Ash mixed dry with soil will help replenish potassium reserves; or ash solution added as an auxiliary top dressing. For the abundant flowering of the plant, complex means and feeding systems are not required. It is enough to provide the flower with nutrient soil, and in the spring and summer, give a full range of mineral fertilizers, paying close attention to watering with iodine. Reasonably dosed top dressing, which includes, in addition to the three main components, also magnesium, calcium, sulfur, zinc, iron, iodine, will provide the owner of the geranium abundant flowering at home throughout the year.

Transplantation of royal pelargonium at home

First of all, we look at the state of the flower. If it is in the flowering stage, you should wait for the end of the process and replant 4-5 days after completion.

If the pelargonium does not bloom, we take new pot of a suitable size, since the plants are usually sold in small shipping containers and the flower is transplanted into it. We also replace the soil with a new one, because in stores they mainly use a temporary substitute in which the plant will not be able to fully develop.

Light is suitable for pelargonium fertile soil, it is best to mix sand, turf and leaf soil and humus in a ratio of 1:2:2:2. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay out a drainage layer of expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles or other coastal pebbles. Pelargonium is carefully removed from the old container, without rinsing and not strongly shaking off the roots, and placed in new ground. Sprinkle with earth on top, carefully closing the root system. At the end of the procedure, water the plant.

Reproduction of royal pelargonium

Like all types of geranium, the royal one is propagated by cuttings. But unlike other geraniums, the royal geranium does not tolerate reproduction and begins to act up. Therefore, certain conditions must be created.

Propagation by cuttings is carried out in spring and summer. It is important that the air temperature in spring be 18–20 degrees, and in summer a maximum of 25. At other temperatures, rooting problems may occur.

Prepare the ground ahead of time. In soddy soil, add sand one to one or peat, sand and perlite, also in equal proportions. Pour the previously prepared soil with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Using a sharp knife, cut the stems and leave a small margin under the bottom leaf. Cut the cuttings so that each has 2-3 buds. trim bottom sheet by making an oblique cut.

Dry the cutting and plant in the soil. After planting, the cuttings are usually not watered. You can just spray with warm water. After about 3 weeks, the cutting takes root. After that, pinch the central stem, and the plant will begin to branch. Top dressing can be carried out two weeks after rooting.

It is not necessary to repot the plant often. It does not like this because of its capriciousness.

So, here are the basic rules for caring for this beautiful geranium:

  • place geranium pots in well-lit areas;
  • do not overheat, observe the temperature regime;
  • do not expose to direct sunlight;
  • do not leave in the rain;
  • ventilate the room;
  • water moderately, avoiding getting water on the leaves and the flowers themselves;
  • feed before each flowering;
  • do not repot often;
  • The plant affected by the whitefly must be isolated from warm, dry air. If the flower is heavily infested, shed the soil with actara three times in 6 to 7 days. In the future, for the purpose of prevention, it is necessary to inspect the leaves from the underside.

    At the initial stage, the whitefly can be easily washed off with water. To prevent its spread, you need to wash the leaves with laundry soap, and then cover the flower with a bag for half an hour. To prevent soapy water from running into the pot, cover the surface of the soil with polyethylene.

    Among the diseases of royal pelargoniums, the black leg is most common. The reasons for its appearance may be: low temperature, dense, waterlogged soil, too large a pot. This disease is most susceptible to cuttings, as well as young plants that have not yet lignified stems. Since it is almost impossible to save the plant, it is necessary to re-root it.

Royal geranium, royal pelargonium, pelargonium grandiflora - the most beautiful plant from South America, brought to Europe in the 17th century.
The royal pelargonium flower is loved for its beautiful flowers, but it is difficult to care for it, unlike fragrant and zonal geraniums.

Fans who decide to have this flower at home will enjoy the beautiful flowering of geraniums on the balcony or in the apartment all summer and spring.

Pelargonium flowers are a small plant, about 60 cm tall. It can be placed on a windowsill or hung in a planter. Royal pelargonium is often planted on the balcony in the summer in a tray. Its stems are herbaceous, erect. The foliage is emerald green and completely covers the bush. The leaves have a rough surface, with fluff.

The royal geranium is most valued for its blooms. Pelargonium is large-flowered, the inflorescences are very large and form at the top of the stem.

In inflorescences the average size it is 15 cm. If properly cared for, their diameter can reach 25 cm. The flowers are 5 to 10 cm long, and their size is usually proportional to the size of the inflorescences.

The diameter of the flower is about seven centimeters. The upper petals in the bud are superimposed on the lower ones, which becomes like a fan. The color and shape is very diverse: there are white, lilac and purple varieties. There is no shade of red that royal geranium flowers would not be painted in. Her buds come with contrasting inclusions or the same type. They can be terry and simple in shape, with wavy smooth or corrugated edges. Flowers look great in photos.

Geranium blooms for about 3 months if it has the right care and good nutrition. The flowering period is much shorter than other species. You can extend it by removing dried buds, applying fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, and some flower growers also graft royal geraniums to other species. During flowering, there is almost no smell, and this is considered by many to be a great advantage, because not everyone likes the rich aroma of flowers.

Gallery: royal pelargonium (25 photos)





















Home care

look after royal geranium quite difficult at home. With any violation of the rules of care, it may stop blooming. Pelargonium does not grow well in the shade, but it also does not like direct sun, because the leaves can get burned. Overfilling or underfilling has a detrimental effect on flowers. Geraniums can be affected by pests and diseases. The basic rules of care that Royal Pelargonium requires at home:

  • Light. Royal geranium loves the light, then it blooms profusely and for a long time. It can be placed on the southern windowsill, but care must be taken that direct rays do not burn the leaves. In winter, the flower needs to be additionally highlighted, because due to the lack of light, the stems will stretch out a lot.
  • Temperature. In summer, the temperature in the room should not exceed 25 degrees. Geraniums need a rest period in winter, it is possible only at 15 degrees. Plants will not bloom unless this period is observed. With a draft or overheating, the same thing can happen.
  • Watering. Geranium loves moisture very much, so it needs to be watered abundantly. The layer of earth on top should dry out between two waterings. Some advise pouring water into a pan rather than a pot. Use boiled water for irrigation.
  • Humidity. Spray geraniums only if the room is very dry. She is afraid of water on flowers and leaves.
  • Fertilizer. Top dressing should be carried out in summer and spring during the flowering period. Use fertilizers with a high content of phosphorus and potassium to prolong flowering for several weeks. Fertilizer should be applied every 14 days.
  • The soil. Royal Pelargonium loves neutral soil or with a weak alkali reaction. Add ashes to the pot to reduce acidity. Provide proper drainage so that water does not stagnate.

If you provide proper care at home for pelargonium, then it will bloom for several months every year. Despite the difficulties, many owners of the plant are very satisfied, because all the beauty of geranium flowers is worth the effort to grow this species.

Royal geranium loves propagation by cuttings. Cuttings of royal pelargonium is the most popular and easiest way. Remember that rooting in water is most often unsuccessful, the cutting rots and does not take root, so immediately plant it in the ground. Usually the procedure is carried out from mid-August, or at the beginning of September, but no later. A branch up to 10 cm long is cut from the top.

The cutting must have 2-3 knots. After cutting, leave it for a few hours to dry out, and then plant it in soil with good drainage.

To protect against diseases, roast the soil in the oven or treat with a solution of potassium permanganate. After such treatment, the cuttings are planted in the ground no earlier than two days later, so prepare the soil in advance. When rooting is complete, after a few weeks, plant the plant in its permanent pot. To speed up the process, carefully unhook the leaves on the branch so that all the energy of the plant goes to the formation of roots.

Propagating plants by seeds is a very laborious process, but in this way hardy plants with a long flowering period are obtained. Seeds are bought in the store - they are oblong and small. They are planted in a deep container.

As a soil, it is better to take a mixture of sand and peat with the addition of ash. Landing takes place in mid-February. Seeds are planted half a centimeter in the ground. A month later, the first shoots appear. When two leaves are already visible, the sprouts dive into a small pot.

Pruning and grafting

In winter, pelargonium stretches because it does not have enough light. Before the flowering season, the plant needs pruning. It is held at the end of February. Carefully cut off the tops of the branches to form a beautiful crown. Use them for breeding. Do not cut radically, because the plant may stop flowering because of this. Royal pelargonium should be transplanted infrequently, once every 3 years. Remember, it blooms only in a cramped pot, too spacious will not suit her.

Pelargonium can be made to bloom longer by grafting onto other species. Fragrant geranium is best suited for this. For grafting, take twigs with three or two leaves, make a cut about a centimeter long. Make exactly the same cut on the second plant, combine them and tie with a woolen thread. Do all this in almost sterile clean conditions, otherwise the vaccine will not take root.

Difficulties in growing

When growing royal geraniums, various difficulties may arise:

  • The plant sometimes turns yellow leaves. If this happens at the tips, then most likely the flower lacks moisture. If the leaves rot, wither, then overflow may be the cause.
  • With abundant soil moisture, water pads will appear on the leaves.
  • When cold, the leaves may turn reddish. In this case, put the flower further from the window.
  • With a lack of light, the leaves will fall off.

Plants are susceptible to disease. If a flower has a blackened leg, it will no longer be possible to save it. Throw away such a plant along with the ground, and treat the window sill and pot with bleach. A gray fluff may appear on the sheets from an excess of moisture, it is caused by a fungus. Urgently remove this gray mold and adjust watering. Of the pests, geranium weevil and whitefly are most often affected. Carefully collect the insects or kill them with insecticides.

Many are interested in why the royal pelargonium does not bloom. The reason for this may be imperceptible fungal infections. Carefully inspect the stems, leaves and root zone. Remove diseased parts of the plant and reduce watering.

If the flowers fall too quickly, this may be due to an excess of nitrogen in the soil or dry indoor air. Problems can also arise when the shoulder straps become very long, at which point the flower stalks do not develop. Low temperatures in winter and spring can also prevent flowering, as can overheating in summer. Also, frequent transplantation is harmful to the plant.

Pelargonium royal, or as it is also called royal geranium, is a very beautiful flower (plant), whose history begins in South America. As you already know, there is a tropical climate. Royal pelargonium was brought to Europe around the eighteenth century, it was from that very moment that breeders began to breed a huge number of varieties given flower.

This plant is very popular for its the most beautiful flowers, however, for this it is necessary to look after him very closely.

If you correctly and carefully monitor and care for the royal pelargonium, then the diameter of the inflorescences can reach as much as twenty-five centimeters. But basically the average size of inflorescences is fifteen centimeters.

Peduncles have different lengths, about five to ten centimeters, and the size is inversely proportional to the area (size) of the inflorescences.

The diameter of the flower is from five to seven centimeters. In the bud itself, the leaves overlap those below them in the form of a fan. Color and shape come out randomly.

You can also find a variety with purple, lilac and white flowers. Most likely there is no such color of a red tint in which the flowers of the flower simply were not painted.

The buds themselves come with contrasting inclusions in the center or the same type. In their form, they can be terry and simple with wavy, even or corrugated edges. Flowers just look great in photos.

Flowering will last from three to four months, unless of course the royal pelargonium is very well cared for, and provided with excellent top dressing.

Flowering is much shorter than other types of pelargonium. You can extend this period only with the timely removal of dried buds, as well as the application of fertilizers (mineral) with phosphorus and potassium, some people who work with flowers for this make a special inoculation of royal pelargonium on other types of this flower.

The smell during the flowering period is not observed, in any case, a sharp one, so most consider this more an advantage than a disadvantage, because not everyone likes the rich aroma of pelargonium (due to allergies, for example).

Care for royal pelargonium at home

As we have said, caring for royal pelargonium at home is enough difficult process. Even with the smallest violations of the rules for caring for a plant, flowering simply disappears.

Royal pelargonium grows very poorly in the shade, however, it also does not approve of the direct rays of the sun, the leaves can get a so-called burn.

Overfilling or underfilling will approximately equally badly affect the royal pelargonium. The flower can also be affected by various kinds of pests and diseases. Here are some of the most important rules for caring for a royal pelargonium plant at home.

Light - Royal Pelargonium loves sunlight in the right proportions, then it will bloom very plentifully and for a long time. You can also put the plant on the south window sill, but you will need to keep an eye on it so that the direct rays of the sun do not fall on the leaves, otherwise they will burn.

In winter, it is necessary to highlight the royal pelargonium additionally, because if the plant does not have enough light, then the stems will be very much stretched in length.

Temperature - In summer, the temperature in the room where the flower is located should not reach the limits of twenty-four degrees. In winter, the flower should be given the necessary rest, such a period of calm is possible only at a temperature of twelve to fifteen degrees.

If this is not observed, then the royal pelargonium simply will not bloom. Exactly the same can happen when the pelargonium is overheated, or even if you just put the flower in a pot in a draft.

Watering - The flower loves moisture, so pelargonium needs to be watered very often and plentifully. Let the topsoil dry between every two waterings. Some flower growers advise others to water the royal pelargonium in the pan, and not in the pot itself. Water must be sufficiently settled before watering, you can also use boiled water.

Humidity - If the room is very dry, then there is no need to spray pelargonium. The flower is very afraid of water getting on flowers and leaves.

Fertilizers - Top dressing should be carried out in the summer and spring periods (when flowering takes place). the best way there will be the use of fertilizers with a sufficient content of phosphorus and potassium (mineral fertilizer), in which case you can extend the flowering period of royal pelargonium for another ten to fifteen days. Fertilizers need to be applied once every two weeks.

The soil - royal pelargonium strongly loves soil with a weak alkaline reaction or simple (neutral). In order to reduce acidity, you need to pour ash into the pot, since ash is also considered fertilizer.

It is important to provide good, and that there is no proper drainage for pelargonium, this is necessary so that water does not stagnate in the so-called flowerpot.

If you can provide the royal pelargonium with the maximum proper care, then your flower will be able to go through a flowering period absolutely every year for two to three months (if there is excellent fertilizer, you can extend flowering even longer).

Most people who have royal pelargonium, despite the huge number of difficulties and factors, are simply happy and satisfied with the presence of this flower in their home, because the beauty of pelargonium is worth the effort that people made when growing this species.

Reproduction, as well as pruning and grafting

Royal pelargonium really likes propagation by cuttings - this is the most popular, simple and effective way.

However, it should be remembered that rooting in water is generally unsuccessful, because the cutting simply rots and then never takes root, so it should be planted directly into the ground.

So to speak, cuttings are carried out mainly in the second half of the last month of the summer period (August), or at the beginning of the month of the autumn period (September). A branch is cut from the very top, seven to ten centimeters long.

The cutting must have at least two or three knots. After cutting it, it is left alone for a couple of hours, so that everything dries out a little, after which it is planted in moderately moist soil with fairly good drainage. We recommend mixing the soil with sand (coarse). The stalk does not need to be covered with a film.

In order to protect the sprout from all sorts of diseases, the soil is fried in the oven or treated with a special concentrated solution with the addition of potassium permanganate.

After such a special treatment, all cuttings of royal pelargonium are planted in the ground, however, it is necessary to land no earlier than forty-eight hours, because the ground must be prepared in advance.

After fourteen days (or more), when the rooting period ends, the plant is planted in a pot. In order to speed up this process, we recommend very carefully pinching off the leaves on the branch, in which case absolutely all the energy of the pelargonium will go to the formation of new roots.

Reproduction by seeds- probably the most time-consuming process, but if you still succeed, then you can bring out very hardy pelargonium plants with a sufficiently extended flowering period.

Special seed material is purchased in stores. Seeds are oblong, but somewhat small. These seeds are planted in a small shallow container.

The soil must be somewhat structural, most the best option there will be a mixture of sand and peat, plus ash will be a plus. Seeds are deepened into the ground by half a centimeter.

The landing itself is carried out in the middle of the winter period (February, preferably in its middle). The very first shoots appear after about thirty days. At the moment when two real leaves are already observed on the sprouts, they carry out the so-called picking into a smaller pot.

In winter, the royal pelargonium is drawn out, because it does not have enough light. We advise you to cut it before the flowering period begins. Around the end of February. The tops of the branches must be cut very carefully in order to form a very beautiful crown.

They can also be used for plant propagation. The pruning process itself should not be radical, because the flower will stop blooming.

Pelargonium royal is rarely transplanted, once every two to three years. It must be remembered that pelargonium blooms only in a cramped pot; a very spacious flowerpot will not work.

You can force the royal pelargonium to bloom a little longer only with the help of a special vaccination for other species. The best choice there will be a fragrant pelargonium or a unique species. On the zonal pelargonium, the royal simply does not take root.

For vaccination, you need to take a twig with three or two leaves, make a cut (necessarily oblique) in length from one centimeter to one and a half.

You must make exactly the same cut on pelargonium, after which you need to correctly combine the plant with a twig, then you can tie it with a woolen thread or simply wrap it with plastic wrap.

Difficulties

Pelargonium royal loves careful cultivation, but all sorts of difficulties often appear. For example, in some cases, pelargonium leaves turn yellow. We will explain why this happens.

If the yellowing is just at the tips, and the rest of the leaf is elastic, then your royal pelargonium probably does not have enough moisture. However, if the leaves simply rot and wither, then the reason for this yellowing is proportional, that is, overflow.

Also, if you moisten the soil too much, then the so-called water cushions may appear on the leaves. At very low air temperatures in winter, the leaves may take on a red color.

In such cases, pelargonium should be placed a little further from the window. And with a lack of lighting, the leaves of the royal pelargonium may generally fall off.

Royal pelargonium is susceptible to various kinds of diseases. For example, it is very dangerous when your royal plant has a blackened leg, in such cases it is simply impossible to save pelargonium.

You just have to throw out the pelargonium along with the soil, and the pot itself should be treated with bleach. If there is an excess of moisture, then gray mold will appear on the leaves, caused by a fungus.

Such leaves must be removed as quickly as possible and after that, neat and proper watering should be established.

Of the pests, royal pelargonium is often affected by whitefly and weevil. You can destroy such pests with special insecticides, and if there are just a lot of such pests, we advise you to simply collect them.

Most flower growers are wondering why the royal pelargonium does not bloom. The reasons may be different, for example, imperceptible rot or fungal infections. It is necessary to carefully examine the leaves and stems, as well as the basal region.

Sick areas of pelargonium are removed and treated with so-called fungicides, while watering the plant must be significantly reduced.

The rapid fall of flowers will be associated with an excess of nitrogen in the soil or very dry air in the room. Pelargonium will not want to bloom in a very spacious pot.

The problem can also manifest itself due to the fact that there will be little lighting, in such cases the pagons become very long, and the flower stalks simply will not develop.

The temperature in winter and spring can also interfere with the flowering period, overheating in the summer is also included. Pelargonium is also harmed by a very frequent transplant.

Types of royal pelargonium

The list of species of such a flower as pelargonium is very large, we will highlight only the most popular. These include the following:

  • Sallymunro. Incredibly beautiful plant with rather large flowers. The upper leaves are red, one might say burgundy in color with a dark tint, almost black with a white edging around the edges. The undersides are pink like apple blossom. Such a plant will bloom several times in one season.
  • German series candy flowers and its variety Candy Flowers Pink with Eye. The so-called large-flowered plant with a pink tint. The leaves will have black spots.
  • Candy Flowers Bright Red all the same german line candy flowers. The flowers are cherry in color with black blurred spots on the leaves. Plants branch quite well, and thus are able to form a beautiful crown, and also its advantage is long flowering.
  • Pelargonium royal Mona Lisa. Variety with incredibly large flowers of a beautiful white hue. In the very center, next to the red stamens, in some cases you can find thin strokes Pink colour. The edges of these leaves are wavy.
  • BlackPrince. An insignificant plant in size, up to forty centimeters in height. The flowers are plum-colored and the petals are silver-edged.
  • GeorginaBlythe. The plant is very small, a maximum of thirty-five centimeters in height. Flowers at this height are strangely large enough, with a bright red color and an orange tint. The throat itself is white. The edge of the sheet is wavy, in the form of ruffles.
  • Morwenna. The variety is quite compact. The flowers are large with a rich red color with a dark tint. The edge of the leaves resembles lace. This variety of pelargonium looks amazing in photographs.
  • WhiteGlory. This variety bears huge flowers from seven centimeters in diameter, white color. Plant height up to forty-five centimeters.
  • LavenderGrandSlam. The plant is of medium height with purple flowers. The uppermost petals will have dark feathers with a purple-dark tint.
  • Carisbrooke. This variety has light pink flowers. On the upper leaves you can see a thin marble pattern, it is made in the form of strokes and spots.
  • Regaliachocolate. The variety has large flowers with a dark red color and a chocolate tint. The leaves are very wide open, and their edge is even.
  • Mandarin variety. Incredible medium sized plant with delicate orange color. In the center are white buds. The edge of the leaves is smooth with white edges.

It is better for you to choose a plant to your taste, while taking into account the characteristics of absolutely each variety. The most correct and accurate care, then it will delight you with flowering every year. The most important thing is to love pelargonium.

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