Royal geranium: rules of care and methods of reproduction. Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

From the article you will learn how to properly care for royal pelargonium at home so that your flower does not dry out and wilted, you will learn all the subtleties of geranium content, how to feed, replant and propagate.

This unpretentious plant, brought to us from India and South Africa, has more than three hundred varieties and has long been widely distributed as a sophisticated hanging decoration of residential premises and private courtyards.

You will also learn the etymology of the names geranium and pelargonium, as well as what it is connected with.
And many more interesting facts about this charming flower.

Cultivation and care

Growing and caring for royal geraniums is not particularly difficult, but in order to achieve long-term flowering, you need to know some of the features of the plant. Pelargonium in winter is very short of light and it stretches out, therefore, in the spring, formative pruning should be carried out, while replacing upper layer soil on a fresh substrate, without transplanting.

In summer, this aristocrat should not be taken out into the garden, she does not tolerate strong streams fresh air and rain. Nevertheless, it can be put on closed areas: a balcony, a terrace or a veranda.

Watering

Royal geranium often gets sick from waterlogging, but it is also impossible to allow the earth to dry out. Watering should be done only with settled water at room temperature, and even better - boiled. To avoid compaction of the earth, which this plant does not like so much, it should be watered through the pan, the roots will absorb exactly as much moisture as the plant needs.

winter calm

Growing and caring for royal geraniums should include a winter dormant period with a temperature of no higher than 15 degrees and poor watering. It is at this time that flower buds are laid. There will be no winter dormancy - there will be no flowering.

Transfer

The royal geranium is transplanted in the spring, but not every year, but only when the root system of the plant begins to climb out through the drainage hole of the pot. The new pot should not be much larger than the old one, because the royal geranium, like all geraniums, blooms best in cramped containers. During the growing season, the plant should be fed with a special fertilizer for pelargoniums twice a month.

• When transplanting your queen to the bottom of the planting container, be sure to put a decent layer of drainage.
• If you do not use special purchased soils, then prepare the planting mixture yourself: take garden soil, add peat and sand.
• Geranium does not like dense soils. Before transplanting, it is advisable to scald the prepared substrate.

pruning

In winter, due to the lack of sunlight, the shoots of the royal pelargonium are drawn out. To maintain the shape of the bush and increase bushiness, it should be pinched, and if the shoot has already stretched out, then cut it off. By March, pinching and pruning must be stopped, as in April the plant will begin to pick up buds.

In summer, pinching is carried out to maintain the compactness of the shape of the bush after flowering. And during flowering, faded flowers are carefully removed.

reproduction

The queen of pelargoniums is propagated vegetatively by cuttings. And, if our grandmothers rooted zonal pelargonium in a glass of water, then this aristocrat will not be accepted like that, her stems will soften and then rot.

The most suitable period is the end of August, the beginning of September, when summer heat. The tops of the shoots are cut off by about three knots and let them weather for a couple of hours. Then they are sprinkled with peat-sand mixture or sand, watered with heteroauxin or root. Cassettes or bowls are placed in partial shade.

• Watering rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium should be carried out moderately, only when the substrate dries.
• It is impossible to pour on the stems, it is better to direct a trickle of water around the perimeter of the pot.
• When the cuttings are accepted, an increase will appear, which should be pinched over 3-4 pairs of leaves.
• Then they are transplanted into the prepared planting mixture, looked after according to the rules and wait for flowering the next summer.

Increasing flowering time with grafting

The flowering period of the queens is shorter than that of the zonal ones. Their bush is also not so tall. And it is known that inoculations of plants of different strength of growth change the nature of growth. So, by grafting medium-sized varieties of fruit-bearing plants onto a dwarf rootstock, we can achieve earlier fruiting than on our own roots.

In addition, the grafted stalk, as a rule, is less inclined to stretch and more inclined to branch, growing a compact bush. These qualities are needed for grafting royal pelargonium onto a very tall zonal one.

At the zonal pelargonium, the crown is cut off at a height of about 60 cm. This remaining bole must be mature. At the scion (royal pelargonium stalk about 10 cm), the lower end is cut off with a wedge with a sharp knife. Both branches should be approximately the same diameter.

• In the zonal bole, a V-shaped incision of 2 cm is made at the top.
• A pointed scion is inserted into this split, the branches are aligned flush with each other along the edges of the split.
• Then the resulting joint is wrapped with a grafting film.
• It is better to start wrapping from top to bottom with a slight overlap, capturing a little both the scion and the bole.

For the growth of the grafted bush, it is desirable to establish a support, constantly remove the kidneys on the bole. If suddenly the royal pelargonium immediately picked up buds, then it is better to pinch them off, otherwise all the forces will be spent on flowering, and not fusion.

So, having considered the features of caring for royal pelargonium at home, we focused on the differences in cultivation and reproduction from the previously common type of zonal pelargonium.

An interesting way to increase the duration of flowering is proposed - grafting.

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Royal Geranium Care

I bought a royal geranium in the market from one grandmother. I really liked its flowering, which lasted quite a long time and, most importantly, this flower did not cause me any trouble. But despite this, there are still some rules that must be observed. True, there are very few of them.

Brief information about the care of royal geraniums

• Temperature: normal;
• Lighting: loves when there is a lot of light. Even prefers direct sunlight.
• Watering: plentiful. But between watering, the topsoil should dry out.
• Humidity: not demanding. Even afraid of getting water on the leaves.
• Transplant: in the spring, if necessary.
• Reproduction: cuttings. You can use seeds if you have the patience for it.

Possible diseases of royal geranium

• Lower leaves turning yellow

There may be two options here. First, if the leaves are elastic, but their tips dry, then there is not enough moisture. Well, if the leaves, on the contrary, are sluggish and even begin to rot, then in this case there is an excess of moisture.

• The leaves of the royal geranium turn red

The reason may be low temperature. If the winter is cold and your windows are wooden, then remove the plants from the window for a while.

• Stem darkened

• Unfortunately, the cause is such a dangerous disease as the black leg. Unfortunately, the plant can no longer be saved. And to avoid infecting other flowers, ruthlessly discard the plant and soil. Be sure to treat the pot with bleach, or another means. You can also boil.

• The lower leaves fall off and the stem becomes bare

Royal geraniums lack sunlight.

• Watery pads appeared on the leaves

The reason is waterlogging of the soil. Just reduce watering and soon everything will be fine.

• Gray mold appeared on the leaves

The cause is infection with a fungus due to an excess of moisture. Unfortunately, the disease is contagious and urgent action needs to be taken. It is not necessary to throw out the plant, but remove the affected leaves as soon as possible and treat the plant with a special preparation.

Of the pests of royal geranium, whitefly and weevil love.

Royal geranium care and reproduction

The royal geranium differs from its sister zonal geranium in that it has a dormant period during which it is important to provide the plant with a cool temperature.

• If this is not done, then for a long time you will not see her beautiful, in truth, royal flowers.
• The thing is that during the dormant period the plant recuperates and if it is hot in the room, then all its forces are spent on somehow existing.
• As a result, forces are spent in winter and they simply do not remain for flowering.
• Also, this type of pelargonium is afraid of heat. If the room is very hot, then the flowers may wither, and if there are buds, they will fade without opening.

If possible, plant your beauty outside in the summer. However, it is important that the rain does not fall on her, and the wind does not blow, of which she is very afraid. Place the flower in a windless place protected from rain, such as on a terrace or balcony.

Watering royal pelargonium

As for watering, the plant loves water. Therefore, water it abundantly, but do not let the water stagnate, she is very afraid of him. In addition, waterlogging is more dangerous than drying out the soil. If the soil dries out, then there is a better chance of saving the plant. But frequent waterlogging causes root rot. And if the roots began to rot, then the plant is almost impossible to save.

Make it a rule to water the royal geranium only when the topsoil dries out..

And do not forget to regularly pamper your beauty with nutrients, especially during flowering. Therefore, during the active period, pelargonium is fed every 10 days. But during the dormant period, it is better to refuse top dressing.

Royal geranium propagation by cuttings

Of course, if you are determined and have the patience and strength, you can try growing pelargonium from seeds that you can buy at the store, or harvest from the plant when it begins to fade.

• But I personally have recently chosen the simplest methods that save time, and most importantly, nerves.
• In general, now I try to propagate any plants by cuttings.
• In most cases, you can also go two ways: plant the cutting in the ground or put it in water and wait for the roots to appear and only then plant it in the ground (unfortunately, this method is not suitable for royal pelargonium).
• Cut for propagation is better apical cuttings(you can take them during pruning) at the end of August and until September. Choose cuttings that have 2-3 internodes. Leave the stalk for a couple of hours to let it dry, and then place it in the ground.

To speed up the formation of roots, I cut off the leaves from the cuttings, leaving 2-3 upper leaves each. Thus, the plant does not need to expend energy to provide nutrition to the leaves. It is not necessary to cover the rooting stalk with oilcloth. Also, try not to over-moisten the stalk.

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Features of large-flowered pelargonium

As befits a plant with such a big name, at home, the royal pelargonium, in the photo, is more demanding for care than the common varieties of zonal geranium, and it does not bloom for such a long time. But, having seen only once the huge flowers of the most different forms and colors, it is impossible not to get excited about growing an equally beautiful plant on your windowsill.

Royal pelargonium, reaching a height of 30–60 cm, differs from other varieties:

• folded leaves with a dense, rough to the touch leaf plate and serrated edges;
• large, up to 7 cm in diameter, simple and double flowers.

The multi-colored color of the petals adds decorativeness to the inflorescences, but if the flowering period of the zonal geranium ends in autumn, then the last inflorescences on the royal pelargonium wither in the second half of summer.

As a result, you can admire the caps of airy bright flowers for 3 to 5 months, and it is doubly insulting if buds do not appear on the bush in spring.

Why doesn't royal pelargonium bloom?

Having planted a young plant in the ground, amateur flower growers look forward to the appearance of spectacular inflorescences over the greenery, but sometimes they have to face disappointment.

Instead of flowers, large-flowered geranium gives only greenery, and fast-growing shoots soon lose their appearance and stretch out.

What mistakes were made when caring for royal pelargonium at home, and why, as in the photo, the plant was left almost without flowers?

Indeed, if pelargonium does not bloom on time, this may say:

• about incorrectly selected temperature conditions or lack of lighting;
• that the plant is planted in an overly voluminous pot or receives fertilizers of inharmonious composition;
• about untimely transplantation;
• about illiterate pruning or its complete absence.

How to care for royal pelargonium so that the plant blooms regularly, is healthy and does not lose its decorative effect all year round?

Summer care for royal pelargonium at home

Speaking about the unpretentiousness of pelargoniums, connoisseurs of this species are not disingenuous at all.

In order for the royal pelargonium to feel comfortable and delight the owners with abundant flowering, the grower needs to follow only a few rules that will ensure the success of the entire cultivation.

Large-flowered varieties of pelargonium are demanding on lighting and love to be put on the brightest sunny windows. Only on the hottest days do plants need a shading that protects against burns, in other cases, limiting light is a risk:

• stretching and exposure of shoots;
• reducing the intensity of flowering;
• dropping buds that have already appeared.

Unlike related varieties, royal pelargonium does not tolerate drafts and cold winds, if such a plant is planted in a garden, it will probably not please with inflorescences either. Therefore, royal pelargoniums are grown at home, and care in the summer includes protection from drafts. Plants feel great and bloom profusely on glazed sunny terraces and loggias.

With excessive dryness of the air in summer, pelargonium can be sprayed with water at room temperature, making sure that direct sunlight does not fall on wet leaves and inflorescences.

At the same time, do not forget about watering and fertilizing flower plants. Although Pelargonium easily tolerates dry periods and is not too demanding on the composition of the soil, without water and nutrition, it will undoubtedly not produce the proper amount of flowers. During the warm season large-flowered varieties require especially abundant watering, which is carried out when the topsoil dries out a little.

Features of winter care for large-flowered geraniums

After the luxurious flowers wither, the pelargonium should recover, but if you leave it until next spring on a warm windowsill, you can not wait for the next flowering. How to care for pelargonium in autumn and winter? With the onset of autumn, when the temperature drops, the care of royal pelargonium at home changes. The plant for three months is provided with:

• temperature of the order of 12-15 ° C;
• rare watering, only supporting the decreased activity of pelargonium;
• sufficient lighting.

Top dressing for the entire period of wintering is stopped. If all the conditions of care are met, the plant lays a sufficient number of flower buds and, with the exit from the winter stupor, it will surely bloom luxuriously.

Carrying out transplantation and feeding of royal pelargonium

All types of pelargonium are distinguished by the rapid growth of the aerial part of the plant. If a bush that has grown considerably over the summer, along with the soil removed from the pot, has completely covered the roots with an earthen ball, at the end of winter the royal geranium is transplanted.

• The soil for this crop should be loose, well breathable and retain moisture.
• When thinking about why the royal pelargonium does not bloom, the grower must also take into account the correct selection of the soil mixture.
• A good option is a mixture of equal parts of disinfected garden soil, sand and peat.

Since the root system of the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture, a powerful drainage layer is required for pelargonium, and no less attention is paid to the selection of a pot when planting. It is because of the transplant into too large dishes that many flower growers are disappointed in the culture, and the royal pelargonium does not bloom.

Getting into a voluminous pot, the plant rapidly increases its green mass, but completely “forgets” about the set of buds.

A similar process occurs with the wrong mixture of fertilizers. If nitrogen predominates in top dressing during the formation of buds and flowering, the stems and leaves grow, and the buds become less and less. Best Blends for top dressing, pelargoniums are distinguished by a high content of potassium and phosphorus, which ensures abundant and long flowering.

Pelargonium pruning

The reason why royal pelargonium does not bloom may be incorrect or insufficient pruning. Since the plants grow rapidly and the buds are formed on the tops of the shoots, it is easy to increase pure flower buds by pinching or cutting the tops of overgrown stems in July and August. This measure will:

• use the resulting cuttings for propagation;
• achieve lush flowering next season;
• stimulate the growth of young shoots;
• give the bush a compact attractive shape.

It is better to trim the plant gradually, without seriously injuring the pelargonium, and after the operation, the plant must be fed. At the end of winter, with the beginning of a new formation of buds, pruning is completed.

Cuttings of pelargoniums

The resulting cuttings can be rooted all year round, but in the warm season it is much easier to do this.

As planting material take strong shoot tips that have at least two pairs of leaves and are cut 5 mm below the node. It is better to cut off the lower leaves immediately and leave no more than 3 upper leaf plates. After that, the places of cuts on the cuttings are treated with crushed charcoal and left in the air for 18–24 hours.

True, there is another way. Already 10 minutes after separation from the mother plant, cut cuttings:

• treated with root;
• planted in a mixture of sand, humus and peat;
• cover with non-woven material for 2-3 days.

Good results are obtained by planting cuttings in moistened peat tablets.

In any case, plantings are watered with a solution of phytosporin, which will protect the cuts from the development of rot. And how to care for pelargonium after the cuttings have given roots?

Until the moment when the cuttings, which are at a temperature of 19–23 ° C, take root well, it will take from 8 to 12 weeks. After this time:

• young plants are planted in a permanent place;
• pinch the main shoot over the third pair of leaves, which will force the bush to give new side stems.

If at home the care for royal pelargonium, as in the photo, is good, young plants develop well, and next spring small neat bushes give the first inflorescences.

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Royal Geranium Care

timely and proper care behind the royal geranium, it allows you to form a regular and strong bush during the first year of life, which in the second year of its life will give you lush bright buds.

• Caring for royal pelargonium begins from the moment you decide to house this plant. You need to choose the right place to land.
• Royal geranium does not bring drafts, dry air and direct sunlight. Also, the plant does not like the high air temperature and insufficient watering.
• However, waterlogging of an earthen coma will not do anything good.

As you understand, the optimal place for growing is the northern or eastern window, under which there is no central heating battery and which is not used to ventilate the room during the cold season. In spring, summer and autumn periods royal geranium feels great in a glazed loggia. However, when the threat of the first frost appears, the plant should be removed to the room.

In the spring and summer, ambient temperatures up to 25 degrees Celsius are suitable for the growth of geraniums. In autumn and winter, you should not allow the temperature to rise above 20 degrees Celsius.
Landing

To organize the proper care of royal geraniums at home, planting is important. For growing, choose ceramic pots. They maintain the optimum temperature of the earthen coma and provide uniform distribution air. There must be a drainage hole to eliminate excess moisture.

• Pour expanded clay or any other drains at the bottom of the pot. Next, fill the container with soddy soil with a high organic content.
• You can immediately apply 1 tablespoon of nitrogen fertilizers to ensure sufficient plant nutrition during the period of green mass gain.
• After planting, keep the royal pelargonium for 2 weeks in a shady place and water 2 times a day.

Royal geraniums should be transplanted no more than 1 time in 3 years. And it is best to refrain from this event. This indoor flower tolerates a transplant extremely painfully and may even die.

Also, caring for royal geraniums includes the timely application of top dressing. In spring and summer, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers once a week. Potassium and phosphorus should predominate. In autumn and winter periods make nitrogen and organic fertilizers 1 time per month.

Be sure to shape the plant by pinching. The first pruning is carried out at the moment when the plant reaches a stem height of 15 cm. All tops are cut off by 2 cm. The second pinching is needed at the moment when the side shoots reach a length of 5 cm. Cut off all their tops by 1 cm.

After that, you will get a spherical shape of a bush, which, with proper care for royal geraniums, will give abundant flowering for the second year.

Propagation by cuttings of royal geranium

At home, it is advisable to propagate royal geraniums by cuttings. Although propagation by seeds is not ruled out. In this case, sowing is carried out in the first half of February in structured loose soil to a depth of 0.5 cm. Floors as needed. Picking in the phase when the seedlings have 2 true leaves.

• Reproduction by cuttings of royal pelargonium is available to every grower, if any mature plant. In spring or autumn, cuttings up to 10 cm long are cut.
• For this, it is better to use a sharp knife. Cut at a 45 degree angle.
• Immediately after cutting, 2 leaves are removed from below, and the cuttings are placed in water at room temperature for 7-10 days until the roots appear.

After that, the cuttings are rooted in light structured soil in containers of small diameter. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out after 2 months. To improve the rooting process, it is important to prepare the soil mixture. Add the same amount of building or river sand to any soil. After mixing, pour all the soil with boiling water. A strong solution of manganese is also suitable for disinfection. But after watering them, plants can be planted after 48 hours.

When rooting has passed, the growth of the top begins. Be sure to cut it back by 1 cm. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots.

Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Many beginner flower growers are wondering why the royal geranium does not bloom. This may be due to improper care, frequent transplants and the presence of bacterial and fungal infections.

First of all, carefully inspect the plant for dark spots on the leaves, fluff on the stems and rot in the basal part. If signs of the disease are found, then the entire root system should be cleaned from the ground, rinsed under running water and placed for 2-3 days in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Clean up or remove all affected parts of the plant.

Prepare fresh soil. The pot, if the same one will be used, is disinfected with a solution of bleach. The soil before transplanting is also disinfected with boiling water. Replant the plant and carefully observe the appearance of new signs of disease.

Signs of illness:

• Also, royal geraniums do not bloom if improper care and growth conditions are provided.
• For example, excessive dryness of the air leads to the systematic fall of buds and peduncles.
• Their laying occurs only if the soil contains sufficient amounts of phosphorus, potassium and manganese.
• With excessive nitrogen application, a rapid set of green mass occurs and there is no flowering.

Another option why royal geranium pelargonium does not bloom is too large a container in which the plant grows. Tall, but not wide pots are more suitable for this indoor flower. This ensures long-term abundant flowering. big pot leads to the growth of green mass and the absence of budding.

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Royal Pelargonium Care

Among the huge variety of pelargoniums, this is a real "aristocrat" - royal pelargonium (Regal Pelargonium) . For large flowers, it is also called: large-flowered pelargonium (Pelargonium grandiflorum). It differs from other varieties of room geranium (pelargonium) primarily in large flowers. It is also deprived of the aroma characteristic of geraniums, which not everyone likes. And most importantly, unlike their "relatives", royal pelargonium at home is capricious and whimsical.

Breeders over the past decades have bred many varieties of royal pelargonium.

They differ in shape, size and color of flowers.

• For example, the flower that I bought then in the greenhouse has pale pink petals with small dark spots. This is Pink Mikado Pelargonium.
• But its other varieties are also beautiful: Aristo Schoko (pale red with light brown spots), Barkarole (variegated with silver edging), Imperial (white and pink).
• And how gorgeous are the dark royal pelargoniums: Black Berry and Black Butterfly.

In a word, today the royal pelargonium flower is represented by a mass of shades: from white to inky purple. And the shape of the flowers is most often not simple, but terry, and the petals of some varieties are wavy or corrugated.

The leaves of the royal pelargonium are jagged, rough, rather large. Although among the new varieties there are varieties with small leaves and small flowers, the shape of the leaves of the royal pelargonium remains unchanged.

Light and warmth for royal pelargonium

I brought my beauty of royal blood home in bloom and did not dare to transplant it right away. I wanted to fall in love. I put an ugly temporary flowerpot in a spacious elegant planter (for a queen, the design should be appropriate) and put it on a stand near the window, where diffused sunlight fell on it, and it was warm all the time.

• After the pelargonium faded, I transplanted it. The soil used is the same as for other types of geraniums: well-drained, light, slightly acidic substrate for flowering plants.
• It is a pity, but the royal pelargonium blooms for a very short time. Approximately from April to August.
• In addition, in order for it to bloom at all (and for many lovers it does not want to release buds), it needs to be cool for several months.
• Flowers of royal pelargonium generally require a temperature of 10-15 degrees during the dormant period, so try to find the coolest place in the apartment for it in autumn and winter.

In summer, when the royal pelargonium blooms, it needs warmth. But not hot! From the heat, the leaves can dry, and the buds will not open. When growing royal pelargonium, diseases can appear - pests (aphids or whiteflies) or sunburn spots appear on the leaves.

In the warm season, royal pelargonium can be planted in open ground (the coolness of the night will only contribute to flowering). In any case, that's exactly what I do. But the royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind - do not forget about its effeminacy. Place it on a veranda or terrace protected from the wind. In the conditions of the apartment, the ideal place for the summer period is a closed balcony.

And in order for the royal pelargonium to bloom and bush, you need to pinch the top shoots in advance (from February-March to April).

Watering and fertilizing royal pelargonium

Beauty royal pelargonium is not against abundant watering during flowering.

• You can water directly into the ground.
• But we must not allow stagnation of moisture or, on the contrary, the drying of an earthen coma.
• Leaves and buds will immediately wilt and may begin to crumble.
• If waterlogged, root rot is possible.
• I water the royal pelargonium as the soil dries.

Like any geranium at home, royal pelargonium will grow and bloom better if it is fed on time. This should be done only in spring and summer, but not during the dormant period. For top dressing, I use liquid fertilizers with a high content of potassium (for flowers) and trace elements.

Reproduction of royal pelargonium

• Believe my experience: in no case should you put cuttings of royal pelargonium for germination in water - it will rot or simply will not take root. And the young sprout also needs to be watered moderately.
• I planted the rooted sprout in permanent pots filled from the bottom with a drainage mixture and topped with a light substrate.
• The first year, royal pelargonium is just settling in its palace- builds up the root system and drives out shoots. But already in the second year, truly royal flowers will bloom in you.

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The main varieties of pelargonium

• Zonal(non-double, terry, star-shaped and others) - the most undemanding varietal pelargoniums in care.
• royal geranium- This is a variety of flowers with large showy flowers.
• Ampel, fragrant and succulent pelargoniums have leaves of an interesting shape.
• Fragrant pelargoniums exude, when touching the leaves, the smells of lemon, wormwood, mint, pine and other aromas.

Geranium and Pelargonium - why two names?

Why are flowers called differently - Geranium, Pelargonium? The names of the flower, both of which are associated with birds. The name "geranium" from the Greek geranios translates as "crane", and "pelargonium" (pelargos) as "stork". The fruits of the plant are similar to the beaks of these birds, hence the names.

• That heat-loving perennial that grows at home and does not tolerate cold is pelargonium. And frost-resistant geranium grows calmly and winters in gardens and flower beds.
• Pelargonium seeds actually resemble the beak of a stork or crane, and are also very similar to the Tari bird.
• But we often call home pelargonium geranium. It's not that important. The main thing is that the plant brings a lot of joy to its owners.
• Growing geraniums at home is easy: easy to care for, easy to breed. And as a gift for your care - colorful flowers of zonal, ampelous, royal pelargoniums or juicy greens of fragrant geraniums.

Unlike room geraniums, garden geraniums are practically not afraid of frost at all and quietly grow on our backyards and summer cottages, delighting gardeners with their modest flowers.

On our windowsills you can often see the beautiful Azalea, which gives the owner flowers with truly royal generosity.

Care is easy and simple

A lot of light and space, optimal watering and compliance with the temperature regime are the components of success in caring for a flower.

Accommodation

Pelargonium feels good on windowsills facing south. In the absence of lighting, blooms worse and the stem is exposed.

• But on hot days it must be shaded from the direct rays of the luminary.
• Geranium loves space.
• When placing it, it is necessary to make sure that neighboring flowers do not interfere with it.
• On the southern windowsills, indoor geranium feels great.

Temperature and watering

The temperature at the location of the geranium must be maintained not lower than +10-15°C. Temperatures below these values ​​provoke the exposure of the stems and the cessation of flowering. If during the frosty period the edges of the leaves of the geranium standing on the windowsill turn red, then you need to move the pot with the plant away from the window.
Like all ampelous plants This type of geranium is best grown in a hanging basket.

Although geranium and drought resistant flower, the soil in the pot should not dry out too much otherwise flowering will be poor. As soon as the soil in the pot begins to dry out, it's time to water. If the room is sunny or hot from heating, then it is better to water daily or once every 2 days, and when it is cool or cloudy, then after 3-4 days. But it’s also not worth pouring a flower, otherwise the root neck will begin to rot. Then the plant may die.

We plant and transplant - what kind of soil and pots

Pelargonium undemanding to soil. Required good layer drainage at the bottom of the pot. It is needed so that excess water does not accumulate in the soil: this leads to rotting of the roots.
The pot is usually chosen not very large.

Indoor flower grows well on neutral and slightly alkaline soils. As an example, there are three compositions of earthen mixtures for planting homemade geraniums:

• humus, sheet, sod land, sand (2:2:2:1);
• peat, garden soil, sand (1:1:1);
• compost, peat, humus soil, sand (1:1:1:1).

Young plants are transplanted every year or every other year in March-April.
The pot should be small.. root system in the ground should, if possible, occupy the entire volume. When the roots are in some tightness, pelargoniums bloom more profusely.
Cuttings on an industrial scale.

We propagate the beauty

• Seeds. They are sown at the beginning of the year, spread out on wet soil and sprinkled with a small layer of soil for seedlings. Put in a warm place, covering the container with pelargonium seeds with glass. Moisten the soil from time to time. The shoots that have appeared are seated and grown for a couple of months in a place that is well lit. Then the seedlings are planted in permanent pots.
• cuttings. When the roots grow at the cutting, placed in the spring or in the middle of summer in a bowl of water, it is transplanted into a pot with soil. The water is changed periodically during the process. You can plant cut cuttings in a loose earthen mixture, which is periodically slightly moistened during the rooting process. Greenhouses in order to avoid decay do not need to be arranged.
• The division of the bush. In February-March or July-August, the earth, along with pelargonium, is pulled out of the pot, turning it upside down. Then the stems of the flower are carefully pulled apart and planted in new pots.

Flower growers know that indoor plants can be grown
not only for the sake of aesthetics, but also for the sake of health. bright representative such medicinal indoor plants is Kalanchoe.

Aloe is another equally important medicinal plant that can be successfully grown on a windowsill.

And fans of Feng Shui prefer the family of fat women. Everything about money tree see here

How to crop

Bold and a lot. Especially when there is nothing to save - with bare stems. Better - in the fall. In the spring, too, you can - when transplanting a plant. To form good branching and a lower crown, adult stems are cut so that only stumps no more than 4-7 cm high from the ground are preserved.

The main thing is that two to five buds remain on the stumps. In any season, to improve the branching of the stems, young branches can also be pinched.

It can be seen how, after such a bold pruning, several new shoots have already appeared.

Typical diseases

Pelargonium gets sick most often due to over watering and lack of fresh air. If a dark spot appears near the rhizome, then the tissues of the stem begin to soften. The plant is not easy to save in this case. To prevent gray rot, "black leg" and other fungal diseases, the soil is sterilized before planting pelargonium, the growing place is ventilated more often, and the plants are treated with a fungicide once a year.
Most likely, these flowers cannot be saved, they were watered too generously.

If the leaves turn yellow, then you need to put the plant in a place where there is more light in the room, and adjust the watering mode. The appearance of pads with watery contents on the leaves indicates waterlogging of the soil in the pot.

Control of winged and crawling pests(aphids, mites, weevils, whiteflies) is reduced to the use of fungicides and formulations containing permethrin.
The plant does not have enough light, the leaves began to turn yellow.

Victoria Glendinning, British writer, speaks of Pelargonium as a living being. She writes that geranium blooms better if they talk kindly to her from time to time. And too much attention, loosening and fertilizing oppress and confuse her.
Geranium essential oil with its aroma soothes and harmonizes thoughts and space.

Breathe medicinal smell of pelargonium
useful when high blood pressure. Pelargonium juice has useful antiseptic properties: attach a crushed leaf to the wound and bandage it - it will quickly heal. Mashed geranium leaves are effective for ear inflammation, radiculitis and osteochondrosis. The smell of pelargonium repels flies and plant pests. A leaf placed in the ear of a domestic dog or cat will rid animals of ticks.

You can’t wait for fragrant flowers, but the smell is amazing!

Royal pelargonium is the most beautiful plant which attracts attention with its charming flowers and insanely beautiful blooms. In the people, this geranium is also called royal, English large-flowered, domestic and noble. This type of pelargonium is unpretentious in care, but it requires attention and special growing conditions, which are important to observe if you want to grow truly magnificent beauty on your windowsill.

flower description

Pelargonium grandiflora is bush about 60 cm high, which is distinguished by herbaceous erect stems, rich green leaves and large inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter. Royal pelargonium flowers can reach 7 cm in diameter. They consist of petals, which, depending on the variety, have a variety of colors and shapes. Simple or terry buds have smooth or wavy edges. Their color can be monochromatic or bicolor, when there are contrasting inclusions inside the flower.

At good care for royal geraniums, you can achieve its continuous flowering for three to four months. Blooming flowers of the plant have many shades- from white to dark purple. Depending on the variety, the leaves can be large or small, but they all have the same shape. Each rough leaf has small notches.

Royal Geranium Care

A flowering plant loves light, so the best place for him there will be a stand equipped near the south window. You can put a flower pot directly on the windowsill, but only on the east or west windows. Direct sunlight will not harm geraniums, but on too hot days, burns can form on the leaves.

On the northern windowsills and in the shade of the royal pelargonium will not be missed Sveta. With insufficient lighting, the leaves on the bush become small, and the buds may not appear at all, which, in fact, will be the answer to the question of why the royal geranium does not bloom.

The room where the flower grows must be regularly ventilated, but so that there are no drafts. In the warm season, a pot with a bush can be put on outdoor balcony or to the garden.

If you turn to specialized literature, you can find out that royal pelargonium is also known under a number of other names - royal geranium, large-flowered geranium. For scientists, the name of the plant is more familiar as - Regal Pelargonium, Pelargonium grandiflorum. Pelargonium is a member of the Geraniaceae family and can grow up to 25–50 cm in height.

However, this plant received the greatest fame as an indoor flower, which can be explained by its long period flowering and unpretentious care. The reproduction of royal pelargonium is simple and effective, since cuttings are most often used for it.

Characteristics and description of the flower

Before mid-eighteenth century Europe was unfamiliar with geranium, however, everything changed when the first samples of this plant were delivered from South Africa. It became the basis for breeding new varieties from cuttings.

Along with other species, breeders managed to create Pelargoniums royal grandiflora, whose main decoration is their large flowers.

• These plants usually grow as compact shrubs that are mostly hybrids. When grown at home, they are obtained in the form of small, dense bushes and fragile, highly branching stems.
• Depending on the variety, pelargonium may have various forms and leaf size. Petioles of geraniums are long and do not differ from leaf blades. Many varieties of pelargonium grow round leaves, decorated with slightly lobed edges.
• Geranium flowers grow on an elongated, thin stem, which is covered with spherical umbrellas. Often she has single flowers of large sizes, having a bright color.
• The variety of pelargonium grown affects the color of the flowers, which can be white or any shade of pink and red.
• When grown in room conditions you can get quite undersized pelargoniums that do not exceed a height of 25-50 cm. Top part The leaves are serrated and have a rough texture, while the edges are sharply wavy.

Types and varieties of flowers of royal pelargonium

The flowers are different simple, funnel-shaped, reaching a diameter of 5-8 cm. At the ends of the stems or young branches grows about 10 flowers that look like a cone.

Petals usually have a darker shade in the inner region, often in their front part dark lines appear. When providing the plant with appropriate care, you can enjoy pelargonium flowers from early spring until the very end of summer.

Features of care

When growing royal pelargonium at home, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for it, without which it is impossible to ensure its normal development.

This plant feels most comfortable in the lungs, air spaces. Individual owners are not limited to growing geraniums at home. If necessary, they can be planted in the garden, on a balcony or terrace, which has shelter from rain.

Often they are installed on the windowsill. But in this case, you have to take care of creating good ventilation, since the plant needs not only the optimal temperature regime but also air humidity.

In general, in terms of illumination, geranium makes the following basic requirements:

1. Ensuring maximum illumination summer period partial shading required.
2. If the plant is grown outside the home, then in the chosen place it is necessary to make a shelter from precipitation.
3. Be sure to protect from direct sunlight.
4. In winter, pelargonium should be grown in a lighted and cool place where a low temperature is maintained - no higher than 10-14 degrees Celsius. In this case, she will be able to form ovaries of buds.

Watering the royal geranium

For the normal growth of royal pelargonium, it is necessary to provide regular and proper watering . In summer, it should be done twice a day - in the morning (at about 10 o'clock) and in the evening, when the sun goes down. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once a day.

There are certain features when caring for hybrids of royal pelargonium. Because they are more accustomed to fever compared to zonal geraniums, water consumption is slightly increased during irrigation.

When watering adult bushes, adhere to the scheme - no more than 50 ml at a time. The amount of water used should be enough to slightly wet the soil.

Should avoid excess moisture, because in such conditions the likelihood of rot and infection is increased. This often explains the reluctance of royal pelargonium to bloom at home.

Required temperature

During the cultivation of royal pelargonium, it is necessary ensure the optimum temperature within 18−25 degrees Celsius.

To avoid these unpleasant situations, it does not hurt every grower to have a hygrometer, thermometer and weather station.

plant sleep period

In the dormant stage, which lasts for royal pelargonium from October to March, it is necessary to prevent overdrying of the earthy coma. The very same care at this time of the year the plant is almost not required.

Even before the pelargonium enters the dormant stage, you need cut off the flowers on it, buds and weak leaves. When pruning, it is necessary to remove the shoots by one third of the length.

Such a measure will not only give the plant more freedom, but also help it get more air. Another benefit of pruning is increased resistance to diseases and pests. Watering should be carried out only at those moments when it is required, taking into account the situation.

In the dormant stage, royal pelargonium is grown at a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius. However, individual flower growers may be prevented from properly caring for the plant in winter by the lack of space or time for this. In this case, proceed as follows:

• the plants are removed from the pots, then the leading shoots are shortened, the root ball is cleaned of dirt, and the roots are also cut off;
• at this stage of the life cycle, each plant is wrapped in a newspaper and wrapped in a film;
• in the end, it remains to tie and hang it in the basement.

No doubt, many will like this method, because throughout the winter do not have to care for the flower. Pelargonium is remembered in March, when it is taken out of the package and transplanted back into pots.

Geranium pruning and fertilizer

During the entire growing season, once every two weeks, it is necessary to apply liquid fertilizer. From October to February, the plants are at rest, so fertilizing at this time of the year is not required.

Once again, I would like to repeat that compact bushes of royal pelargonium bloom most abundantly compared to overgrown ones. New branches are often formed in old, already lignified shoots.

If the geranium has been grown for many years, then it is enough to trim it once a year. And the timing doesn't matter.

How do geraniums reproduce?

Regardless of the variety of royal pelargonium, from which you want to get a new bush at home, it is recommended use cutting method. To do this, already in the first weeks of summer or autumn, cuttings should be prepared, which are cut below the internodes at an angle of 45 degrees.

If the shoot belongs to a dwarf variety, then it must be separated by about 5 cm, and for large ones - 10 cm. Having ready-made cuttings on hand, you need to cut off the lower leaves and flowers from them.

The process of propagation of royal geranium flowers at home takes place a little differently than in the case of other varieties. It is not recommended to allow high soil moisture, as this can lead to rotting of the plant.

For this reason, you should be very careful with the cuttings: when there are several days left before planting, you should refrain from placing them in water.

A more effective measure is to dry them for two hours. However, first you need a place to cut treat with charcoal and Kornevin.

To get new geranium bushes at home, you first have to prepare small diameter pot. As a drainage, you can use shards that fill the bottom of the pot.

It is not recommended to plant a cutting in wet or excessively dry soil, therefore, in such a situation, immediately after planting, watering can only be done along the edge.

What to do after landing

The popularity of the royal geranium cuttings method can be explained by the fact that harvested shoots take root quickly. Usually 3-4 weeks are enough for the first shoots to appear. This is a sure sign that it's time to increase your watering a bit.

However, here it is necessary be as careful as possible, as there is a danger of soaking the substrate.

When another 4 weeks have passed, the young bushes of royal pelargonium begin harden in the sun, and subsequently caring for them is carried out in the same way as for adult specimens.

After waiting for the formation of a well-developed root system in them, it is possible to transplant geraniums into the soil, which is prepared from compost.

Pelargonium transplant

Even with the appearance of many flowers and leaves, the royal geranium itself often remains quite compact. The resulting root shoots look for additional growth space in the drainage hole, and when they succeed, they clog it.

This is one of common causes explaining why pelargonium does not bloom at home. With regard to geraniums, transplantation can be carried out no more than once every two years, always using a fresh earthen substrate.

First, you need to clean the rhizome from the old soil by gently shaking. Further, pruning of long, thick roots and shoots is carried out in order to remove part of them by half. Then the geranium is returned to the old pot, which fill with fresh soil.

Pests and Care Mistakes

The greatest danger to royal geraniums is the disease " blackleg". It can be identified by the fact that the stems turn black at ground level. But you need to be very careful, because this disease can quickly affect the entire plant.

Usually it occurs due to waterlogging of the soil or high humidity. To prevent this from happening, for royal pelargonium it is necessary create optimal conditions development, and they involve the provision of relatively dry air.

Rust is also a problem for geraniums. The harm from it is manifested in the yellowing of the leaves and their subsequent death. Geranium shoots and flowers are not protected from this disease.

Therefore, noticing potential signs of rust on the leaves of a flower, they are immediately need to cut off, which is an effective preventive measure against this disease.

Royal pelargonium does not sound very familiar to many, although this is not surprising, because this is the official name of geranium.

Beneath it hides quite beautiful plant, which can become a spectacular decoration not only in the apartment, but also on the garden plot. However, proper care involves creating an enabling environment for growth, otherwise even waiting for pelargonium to bloom will not be easy.

Royal Pelargonium blooms only with proper care. Under adverse conditions, the flower will not die, but the buds will not form. The efforts made will not be in vain - the flowering is very beautiful.

Description and features

This is a powerful bushy plant up to half a meter high. Shoots branched, strong. The leaves are wide, with serrated edges. The surface is rough to the touch. The flowers are very large compared to other types of geraniums. Their diameter can reach 7 cm. The colors are dominated by purple, white, dark pink, burgundy colors. Petals are usually fringed, corrugated. Monochromatic flowers are very rare, more often two shades are harmoniously combined in color.

Growing royal pelargonium at home is not an easy task. It grows quickly, rarely dies, but it is quite difficult to keep its decorative effect and make it bloom. The flowering period is shorter than that of "ordinary" pelargoniums, it is only three to four months. For laying flower buds, it is imperative to observe a cold wintering at a temperature not exceeding 12 ° C. Royal pelargonium blooms in spring.

If the bush has grown excessively, stretched out, lost part lower leaves, it can be rejuvenated. To obtain young plants, apical cuttings are cut and rooted. If you root them in the fall, then by spring you can already get full-fledged flowering pelargonium bushes.

Caring for royal pelargonium: what to consider

How to care for royal pelargonium in a pot? It is important to provide it with full coverage, favorable temperature conditions, and find the optimal irrigation schedule in accordance with the conditions of detention. Experienced flower growers recommend adhering to the following rules.

• Temperature . In spring and summer optimum temperature is about 23-24°C. In winter, royal pelargonium definitely needs a dormant period at 10-14 ° C. Cool wintering contributes to the abundant laying of flower buds in spring. Keeping warm not only prevents flowering, but also weakens the plant.
• Lighting. The need for lighting is high not only in summer, but also in winter. In summer, the plant receives right amount light from the sun, in winter it is desirable to use fluorescent lamps. Without illumination, flower buds will not be laid.
• Watering. It is necessary to water the royal pelargonium taking into account the conditions of detention. In spring and summer, when it is warm, it is watered moderately, but often - in small portions twice a day. In winter, they simply maintain soil moisture, preventing it from completely drying out. Only the top layer of soil should dry out. For a single watering take about 50 ml of water. Experienced flower growers advise replacing top watering with bottom watering to avoid soil compaction.
• Humidity . It grows and blooms normally in dry air conditions. Spraying harms pelargonium, leaves marks on its velvety leaves. Bathing in the shower is contraindicated for a flower.
• Top dressing. Mineral fertilizers are applied with weekly breaks. Before flowering, around the end of March, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are additionally applied. Pelargonium does not like organic matter. In winter, feeding is stopped.
• Ground. Preference is given to soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. A good composition is a mixture of equal amounts of sand, peat, turf, humus and leafy soil. It is useful to add ash - it reduces acidity, provides additional nutrients.
• Pot. Use ceramic pots. With each transplant, the size of the pot is taken a little more - literally a couple of centimeters. Young, small plants are not planted in spacious pots - this is fraught with souring of the substrate, rotting of the roots.
• Transplant. The interval between transplants of adult pelargonium is two to three years. More often it is not necessary to replant - a capricious variety is hard to tolerate transplants, flowering is delayed. The frequency of transplants depends on the intensity of growth. When thin roots begin to break through the drainage holes, it's time to repot.

Especially important is the care of royal pelargonium after purchase. For two weeks, the plant is quarantined, creating favorable conditions for adaptation. Watering is minimized, they are not fed, they carefully monitor the condition of the flower. They don’t put it in bright light - they shade it from the sun. After two weeks, gradually transfer to normal care.

Trimming Rules

You need to trim the royal pelargonium to maintain beautiful shape bush and full bloom. A common mistake is spring pruning. If you cut the pelargonium in the spring, it will postpone flowering for a year. Therefore, it is necessary to form a bush only after the end of flowering. Usually it ends in the middle of summer, sometimes a little later.

Pruning is carried out twice with a monthly interval. After the first pruning, pelargonium will actively produce new shoots. To stimulate further branching, pinch them after the fifth young leaf. Pinching is repeated up to five times to achieve a neat bush shape and active bud formation. The time of the last pinching is no later than the end of January.

If the pelargonium has grown strongly during the winter, instead of pinching, the shoots can be cut a little.

Why are there no buds

Royal pelargonium does not bloom different reasons. In most cases, common mistakes in care affect.

• Temperature . Incorrectly selected temperature regime, warm wintering. To form flower buds in winter, pelargonium is kept cool.
• Lighting. Lack of lighting, especially in winter.
• Big pot. In a spacious pot, pelargonium sprouts new shoots, grows leaves, but does not bloom.
• Lack of nutrition. Two trace elements are needed for flowering - potassium and phosphorus. If there are not enough of them, the buds will not form. Excess nitrogen has the same effect.
• Incorrect cropping. spring pruning postpones flowering for a year. You need to wait until the end of flowering and only then prune.

To make pelargonium bloom, they create coolness in winter; in early spring, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Be sure to carry out regular pruning at the right time. If pelargonium grows in a spacious container, it is transplanted into a smaller pot.

Reproduction methods

The reproduction of royal pelargonium by cuttings is mainly used. Seeds are used only store. The seeds collected from your plant will sprout, but the flowers will be smaller and lose their characteristic bright color.

cuttings

Description . In order not to injure the plant once again, cuttings are combined with pruning. Use cut tops with three pairs of leaves. Rooting royal pelargonium in water will not work - the base of the cutting will rot. Therefore, they are planted directly in the ground.

Procedure

1. Before planting, the base of the cuttings is dipped in coal powder, dried for several hours.
2. Deepen into a loose substrate. A mixture of equal amounts of sand and perlite or peat with sand will do. In order not to disturb the roots once again, it is better to immediately take separate cups. According to some flower growers, it is convenient to use peat tablets.
3. After rooting, the cuttings are carefully transplanted into larger pots with nutrient soil. It is better not to rush, to carry out the first transplant in a couple of months.
4. Pinching over the third pair of leaves, Pinching is repeated as it grows.

Seedlings are watered twice a month with complex fertilizers with a minimum content of nitrogenous substances. Its concentration in the composition should not exceed 10-11%. The first flowering after rooting of the cutting occurs in six to nine months.

seeds

Description . Growing from seeds is used as a way to simultaneously obtain a large number young plants. Use only store-bought seeds.

Procedure

1. Sowing begins towards the end of winter. Seeds are sown in a light, loose substrate under cover.
2. Keep in good light, if necessary, illuminate with fluorescent lamps.
3. Daily check the humidity of the substrate, remove condensate from the film or glass.

Shoots appear quite quickly - in about two weeks. The germination rate depends on the level of lighting, temperature, time of collection of seeds. Fresh seeds germinate much faster. Seedlings can be planted after the appearance of three or four true leaves.

Common diseases

Diseases for royal pelargoniums are more dangerous than other species. The table shows the most common ailments and how to treat them.

Table - Diseases of royal pelargoniums

The main pests spider mites, aphid, . To combat them, insecticides and acaricides are used. With a slight lesion, a single treatment is enough. With a strong one, you have to process it again.

Main growing problems

Not less problems occurs due to improper care or inappropriate conditions of detention. The most common growth defects and their causes are shown in the table.

Table - Problems of growing royal pelargonium

Knowing how to care for royal pelargonium, you can achieve stable and long flowering. Beautiful, large double flowers will please even those who have not really loved pelargonium before.

Pelargonium is one of the most beloved home and balcony flowers, as well as a very common garden 'annual'.

Pelargonium is one of the most beloved home and balcony flowers, as well as a very common garden 'annual'.

In everyday life, pelargoniums are often calledgeraniums or geraniums-pelargoniums, by family name. Over the years of breeding, hundreds of varieties of pelargoniums have been bred, mainly from groupspelargonium royal, zonal pelargonium and pelargonium ivy (ampelous). Pelargonium care is simple both at home and in the garden.

Pelargoniums royal, zonal, ivy, angel ...

The taxonomy of pelargoniums is very extensive and complex, and the groups listed above and their many varieties are the most popular for growing at home and in the garden.

Pelargonium zonal (Pelargonium × hortorum)- well-known old-fashioned homemade geranium-pelargonium. The plant is erect, with a strong stem and flowers collected in an umbrella. The leaves of zonal pelargonium have a colored zone, hence the name of the group. The group consists of four species, including the zonal pelargonium itself (Pelargonium zonale), and their hybrids.

Pelargonium royal, or pelargonium home (Pelargonium × domesticum)- characterized by a compact manner of growth (due to short stems) and large flowers. The leaves of the royal pelargonium do not have a zonal pattern. This is a relatively new group - royal pelargoniums have been actively selected since the 60s of the twentieth century.

Pelargonium Angel - these are mainly hybrids of curly pelargonium (P. crispum) and plants from the group . Group Angel very reminiscent of royal pelargoniums in miniature: the plants are very compact, very lush, but their leaves and flowers are smaller than royal pelargoniums. Pelargonium flowers from the group Angel often resemble miniature pansies.

Pelargonium ivy, or ampelous(P. peltatum and its hybrids) - plants with a thin stem and ampelous growth habit, shiny leaves resembling ivy, and flowers that are simple, double or collected in rosettes.

The main use of pelargonium ivy is in containers and hanging baskets.

Pelargonium fragrant(P. graveolens, P. capitatum and many other species) - a group of pelargoniums with fragrant leaves. Flowers of fragrant pelargoniums are usually rather plain, but they are not the main advantage of this valuable group of pelargoniums. Essential oil is extracted from the dense and rough leaves of fragrant pelargonium (usually sold under the name scented geranium oil, or geranol).

The most valuable raw material for essential oil is fragrant pelargonium with the smell of roses, see photo. Fragrant pelargoniums are also used in cooking to flavor dishes (the leaves themselves are not eaten, like bay leaves), they are even used to make sorbet ice cream.

Pelargonium: care

• The soil for pelargoniums needs fertile, permeable, neutral or slightly alkaline.
• Pelargonium lighting - full sun with shading in the middle of the day. For zonal pelargoniums, a penumbra location is possible.
• Watering pelargonium is moderate. Pelargoniums do not like wet conditions and do not need spraying. Excessive moisture can contribute to the occurrence of fungal infections - gray rot and rust.
• Pelargonium top dressing begins in the spring: during active growth, pelargoniums are fertilized every 2 weeks with full fertilizer. After the formation of buds, you should switch to a fertilizer with a high content of potassium (for flowering and fruit trees and shrubs, for tomatoes, for roses, etc.).
• Pelargonium pruning consists of pinching the stems, which stimulates the bush's splendor and flowering. Zonal and ivy-leaved pelargoniums are especially in need of pinching. Faded heads should also be removed.
• Reproduction of pelargonium can be done at the end of summer with green cuttings, which are rooted in the ground for seedlings.

Pelargonium in winter

Pelargonium is a tropical plant from South Africa and winters in the ground only in regions of climate zone 9 and above. Therefore, in the garden, pelargoniums are grown as an annual (thrown away in the fall), or cuttings are cut for the next season, or the plants are transferred to coolness for the winter.

Garden pelargoniums are kept cool in winter. dark room at 5-7 degrees (underfloor, insulated loggia), occasionally slightly moistening the soil. At the same time, pelargoniums in pots are cut to a height of 10 cm. Pelargoniums that were grown in open ground are dug up, cut and transplanted into a box with soil for storage. Fresh pelargonium cuttings are stored directly in boxes with soil.published