Cyclonic vacuum cleaner for the workshop: photos, videos, drawings. Homemade vacuum cleaner: cyclone, construction or workshop 2-circuit cyclones for home workshop

Plants of the "cyclone" type are used in industry for the purification of gases and liquids. The principle of the filter is based on physical laws inertia and gravity. Air (water) is sucked out of the device through the upper part of the filter. A vortex flow is created in the filter. As a result, the contaminated product enters the filter through the branch pipe located on the side of the upper part. Since the particles of debris are heavier, they settle in the lower part of the filter, and the cleaned product is discharged through the upper part. It is such a filter, made for the workshop, that we will consider today together with the author of the homemade product.

Tools and materials:
Garbage container 76 liters;
Plywood;
Polycarbonate;
Plastic pipe;
Coupling;
Fasteners;
Masking tape:
Manual frezer;
Electric jigsaw;
Drill;
Glue gun;
Band saw machine;
Sander.

Then from the cover, using a band saw, cuts out a circle with a diameter of 40 cm.

The place of the cut glues, grinds.

In a circle with a diameter of 40 cm, which was left from cutting out the bottom cover, cuts out the middle of the diameter of the plastic pipe. This blank will be installed at the top of the device.

For the side wall, the author used transparent polycarbonate. This will allow you to control the operation of the filter and the filling of the trash can. Having rolled a cylinder out of polycarbonate, inserted it into inner hole bottom cover. Outlined and cut along the seam. Received a cylinder with a diameter of 40 cm and a height of 15 cm.

Having inserted the polycarbonate cylinder into the inner ring of the lower cover, drills holes in 10 cm increments. Fixes the cylinder with self-tapping screws. Whatever crush the polycarbonate, the lower part of the self-tapping screws must be flat.

The top cover is inserted into the other part of the cylinder. Fixes with tape. Having drilled holes, fixes the polycarbonate with self-tapping screws.

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For the inlet and outlet, the author used a plastic pipe with a diameter of 7.6 cm, as well as two couplings for it.
First, he makes an inlet. Cuts off a piece of 23 cm from the pipe. Cuts the sleeve in half. Cut out a rectangle from plywood with sides of 12.5 and 15 cm. Cut out a hole 8.9 cm in the middle (outer diameter of the sleeve). Having inserted a pipe into the hole, it fixes it with a coupling on both sides. Seals the seam with hot melt glue.

To the side wall of the rectangle (12.5 cm), fasten a cut-out piece measuring 12.5 by 20 cm.

Then the author cuts the pipe and plywood so that the curvature of the trim matches the curvature of the cylinder.
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Attaching the structure to the installation site, it makes measurements for the manufacture of a vertical support. Cutting it out, attaches it to the body. Fastens where the cylinder seam goes, thus closing it.

Marks the location of the inlet cutout on the polycarbonate. Cuts it out with a drill.

Installs the inlet pipe into the hole, secures it. The seam is sealed with hot melt glue.

Then it makes an outlet pipe. Cuts off a piece of pipe 15 cm. Inserts it into the hole in the top cover. Installs a coupling on both sides. It processes with hot melt glue.

The author made the lower screen from MDF. Screen size 46 cm in diameter, thickness 3 mm. Draws a circle at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Measures an angle of 120 degrees. Cuts the strip between the sides of the corner. Screws the screen to the bottom cover so that the cutout starts just behind the inlet pipe.

When processing wooden blanks everyone has probably come across the fact that everything around is covered big amount shavings, sawdust and wood dust. To get rid of them at least partially, various dust collectors, chip suckers, filters and other devices are used. Many power tools and machine tools have their own dust collectors, while others have special outlets for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

In home workshops, it will be better to use specials. a vacuum cleaner than a household one. Firstly, the engine in the special. the vacuum cleaner is designed for more than long-term operation, and secondly, as a rule, it is equipped with a hose with a length of 3 m, which greatly simplifies its use with a power tool. And yet, the disadvantage of each vacuum cleaner is a small container for garbage.

How to make a cyclone filter with your own hands

With the goal of somehow simplifying the work of cleaning the vacuum cleaner and reducing the cost of bags, I began to collect information on this issue. On the Internet, I found a description of different types of simple devices in the form of intermediate dust collectors for a vacuum cleaner. Firstly, these are dust collectors in the form of a mini-cyclone. They do a good job of collecting dust in a separate container, preventing it from getting into the vacuum cleaner, which increases the service life of the bags tenfold. The process of cleaning the dust collector from debris is also facilitated. Ready-made fixtures are sold through online stores, but their cost is quite high with a very simple design.

Design. I decided to make a mini cyclone type dust collector myself. The author and developer of this design is considered Bill Pentz from California. Having earned himself a serious allergy to fine wood dust, he subsequently devoted a lot of time and energy to combating both the disease itself and its causes.

The dust collector is a device, the main element of which is an inverted truncated cone, inserted in the lower part into a container for collecting dust. A tube for connecting to a vacuum cleaner is inserted into the upper part of the dust collector, and a tube for connecting a hose from the tool is inserted at the side tangentially.

When the vacuum cleaner draws in the air inside the apparatus, turbulence is formed, and the debris, moving with the air, is thrown by centrifugal forces to the inner walls of the filter, where they continue to move. But as the cone narrows, the particles collide more often, slow down and, under the influence of gravity, fall into the lower container. And the partially purified air changes direction and exits through a vertically installed pipe and enters the vacuum cleaner.

There are two mandatory requirements for a given construction. This is, firstly, its tightness, otherwise there will be a sharp loss of suction power and air purification quality. And, secondly, the rigidity of the container and the cyclone body itself - otherwise, it strives to flatten.

There are tables on the Internet with drawings of cyclones for particles of various sizes. The cyclone body can be made of galvanized or plastic, or you can choose a ready-made container of a similar shape. For example, I've seen cyclones made on the basis of a traffic cone (necessarily rigid), a plastic flower vase, a tin horn, a large toner tube from a copier, etc. It all depends on what size the cyclone is needed. The larger the particles of debris, the larger the diameter of the tubes for the connected hoses, and the more massive the cyclone itself is.

Bill Pentz points out some of his design features. So, the smaller the cyclone in diameter, the greater the load on the vacuum cleaner. And if the container for garbage is low and flat, then there is a likelihood of garbage being sucked out of the container and getting into the vacuum cleaner. When using a container of any shape, it must not be filled to the top with garbage.

The choice of material. I decided to use as blanks plastic pipes for outdoor sewerage and fittings for them. Of course, it will not be possible to create a full-fledged cone from them, but I was not the first who tried to use them for this purpose. The advantage of this choice is the rigidity of the parts and the tightness of their joints due to the seals. Another plus is that there are various rubber pipe fittings that allow you to easily and tightly connect the vacuum cleaner hose. In addition, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

For your own to collect large sawdust and shavings I made a cyclone from a pipe ∅160 mm. I used pipes ∅50 mm as connectors for hoses. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the eccentric adapter from a pipe ∅110 mm to ∅160 mm must necessarily be funnel-shaped. I have seen flat ones, but they will not work - nothing will work with them, and the debris will get stuck.

Do-it-yourself cyclone work progress

Operating procedure. In the plug for the pipe ∅160 mm and the pipe of the body, I made holes for the bends for the hoses. Then, using a thermal gun, I glued a piece of pipe ∅50 mm into the plug. It should be located in the middle of the cyclone body and be a couple of centimeters below the side tube, so it is better to first glue the longer tube into the plug, and then cut it in place during assembly.

On the Internet, I found complaints that hot melt glue does not stick to PVC pipe, and advice to weld parts with a soldering iron and pieces of the pipe itself. I tried it but didn't. Firstly, my glue adhered perfectly, and, secondly, the smell of molten plastic discouraged any desire to weld anything in this way, although the connection may be more durable and neat.

The difficulty of working with hot melt glue is that it does not spread, and the seam in the absence of skills is not very even. I had such a sad experience - I decided to heat it up with a hairdryer to align the seam. I got a smooth surface of the glue bead, but at the same time the plastic tube itself was deformed, and it had to be thrown away.

In the next step, I glued a spiral to the inner surface of the case, which should direct the air flow down to the dust collector. This solution was recommended by Bill Pentz himself - according to him, it almost doubles the efficiency of the cyclone. A spiral with a height of about 20% of the gap should fit snugly against the body and make one turn with a pitch equal to the diameter of the inlet for the side pipe.

As a material for it, I used a plastic rod, which I heated with a hairdryer and bent in the shape of a spiral (photo 1) and then pasted it into the case (photo 2) using a thermal gun. Then pasted the side tube (photo 3), the inner end of which is directed slightly downward.

As soon as the glue cooled and hardened, I measured and cut the vertical outlet tube so that it was 2-3 cm below the side tube edge, and finally assembled the entire structure.

Waste container made of hard plastic barrel, to the bottom of which I attached the wheels - it turned out to be very convenient for cleaning it (photo 4)... I cut through the viewing window in the side of the barrel and closed acrylic glass on hot melt glue. Top strengthened the connection plastic ring and bolts. It is convenient to monitor the filling of the container through such a porthole.

I didn't have a barrel lid, and I made it from a piece of countertop that waited a long time in the wings after the sink in the kitchen (photo 5)... On the underside of the tabletop, I chose a groove for the edges of the barrel with a milling cutter and glued a window seal into it for a tight connection (photo 6)... According to the rules, the hole in the lid should be made in the center, but then I would have problems with placing the cyclone in the workshop, so I made a hole with an offset. The lid is attached to the barrel with latches from a long-broken vacuum cleaner. He also used a hose to connect the cyclone. I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is better to take hoses from vacuum cleaners. If you take, say, a corrugated pipe for electrical wiring, when you turn on the vacuum cleaner, a whistle and an eerie noise appear.

Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner

Connecting the cyclone to the instrument. Not all tools have an outlet for a vacuum cleaner. So I decided to make a simple, adjustable vacuum cleaner hose holder. For him, I made blanks for levers from scraps of plywood (photo 7)... The holder is supplemented with a sewer clamp for fastening the hose (photo 8)... The stand was specially made large sizes to be able to secure it with a clamp or hold it with a load. The holder turned out to be convenient - I use it not only for the vacuum cleaner hose, but also for a portable lamp, laser level and supporting the long workpiece in a horizontal position.

After assembling the cyclone, I conducted several experiments to determine its efficiency. To do this, I sucked in a glass of fine dust, after which I measured its volume that got into the container of the dust collector. As a result, I made sure that about 95% of all garbage gets into the barrel, and only very fine dust, and even a small amount of it, gets into the vacuum cleaner bag. I am quite satisfied with this result - now I clean the bag 20 times less often, and only from fine dust, which is much easier. And this despite the fact that my design is far from perfect in shape and proportion, which, of course, lowers the efficiency.

Wiring. After checking the cyclone's performance, I decided to make a stationary wiring of the hoses around the workshop, since the three-meter hose, of course, is not enough, and the vacuum cleaner with the cyclone is cumbersome and clumsy, it is inconvenient to move them around the workshop every time.

Due to the fact that standard pipes were used, it was possible to mount such a wiring in an hour. I pushed the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone into the farthest corner, and laid pipes ∅50 mm through the workshop (photo 9).

In the workshop I use a specialized green series BOSCH vacuum cleaner. After four months of operation, it is paired with a cyclone, I can say that in general they are coping with their task. But I would like to slightly increase the suction power (when working with a jigsaw, you have to move the hose almost close to the cutting zone) and reduce the noise level. Since little chips get into the vacuum cleaner itself, there is an idea to make a more powerful impeller and take it outside the workshop to the street.

I can also say that the suction power of the vacuum cleaner dropped slightly when used with a cyclone, but at work this is not very noticeable. There were doubts that static electricity could accumulate on the elements, because the entire structure is plastic, but this practically does not happen, although earlier, when collecting fine dust, the hose had to be grounded.

Of course, when using professional pipelines with large outlets, this diameter is not enough. It is better to take ∅110 mm or more, but then both the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone should be more powerful. However, this is quite enough for my homework.

The vacuum cleaner hose was rigidly fixed on a small pipe bend ∅50 mm and inserted in the right place of the wiring. At the same time, the rest of the wiring exits are closed with plugs rigidly put on short bends. Moving the hose is a snap.

During operation, I ran into one small problem. If a small pebble gets into the hose (my concrete floors have not been repaired for a long time) or another small but heavy object, it moves through the pipes to the vertical section in front of the cyclone and remains there. When such particles accumulate, other debris clings to them and can form a blockage. Therefore, before vertical section wiring, I cut a camera from a pipe ∅110 mm with an inspection window. Now all the heavy debris is collected there, and by unscrewing the lid, it is easy to get it out. This is very convenient when fasteners accidentally fall into the vacuum cleaner or small detail... here is simple - I unscrew the lid, turn on the vacuum cleaner and use my hand to mix everything that is left in the revision. Fine particles they immediately fly away into the cyclone tank, while the large ones remain and are easily removed. Their number is usually insignificant, but recently I found a missing screwdriver bit in such garbage.

Also, the revision hole can be used to temporarily connect a ∅100 mm hose. It is enough to unscrew the lid - and we get a finished hole ∅100 mm. Naturally, in this case it is necessary to muffle all other wiring inputs. Flexible adapter can be used to simplify connection (photo 10).

To remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner, next to the hose clamp, I installed a switch (photo 11) and additional. It can be used to connect a power tool, then you will definitely not forget to turn on the vacuum cleaner before using the tool - this often happens to me.

I regularly use all of these devices. I am satisfied with the result - there is noticeably less dust in the workshop, and it is easier to clean. During this time, I collected several bags of sawdust, and very little debris accumulates in the vacuum cleaner. I want to test a cyclone for collecting small garden debris and dust when cleaning a concrete floor.

I think this design is very useful and affordable for making at home.

Sergey Golovkov, Rostov region, Novocherkassk

Owners of small workshops and just home craftsmen often have to deal with the problem of air purification after intensive work on wood processing, sanding metal surfaces, etc. Regular ventilation of the room will not help here; you will need to mount specialized equipment. With known skills, you can do it yourself.

Purpose and characteristics of cyclones

The cyclone is a specialized air cleaning unit (although similar units are also used as chip suckers, sawdust and other means for waste disposal).

As air purifiers industrial structures cyclones should provide suction and dust removal with an efficiency of at least 85 ... 90%, while dust removal of fragments with dimensions of at least 10 ... 12 microns. They are equipped with different filter designs. The most effective are electrostatic precipitators, which simultaneously remove static electricity from dust particles.

The principle of operation of the cyclone is as follows. Air enters the volute-shaped inlet space of the cyclone at a high speed (up to 20 m / s), for which fans are usually used. Air containing dust particles swirls and then enters the conical cavity of the apparatus. Features of the geometric structure of the cyclone cause a gradual increase in the speed of the air flow containing dust and other waste. In the process, self-separation of heavier dust particles from lighter ones occurs. The former settle to the bottom, and the latter, moving in a cone-shaped space, fall into a dust collector, from where they can be easily removed using a bucket or an airtight container. The cleaned air is removed through the pipe to the atmosphere.

The number of cyclones, depending on the requirements for the quality of dust removal, can be made different: there are groups of three, four and even eight single cyclones.

Cyclone performance requirements include the following parameters:

1. permissible dispersion of particles that enter the cyclone, microns.
2. the efficiency of the process, which is expressed in the limiting weight concentration of particles after dust removal, in g / mm 3;
3. cyclone productivity, in m 3 / h;
4. boundary temperature of air or gas entering the cyclone bell (more typical for gas cleaning systems than dust removal) - usually up to 400 ... 600 ° C;
5. inner diameter of the cyclone, mm.

In addition to purely design requirements, the conditions for the high-quality installation of air cleaning devices are also imposed. For example, when the gaps in the air duct connections are exceeded, air leaks often occur, in which the performance of separating dust from air is sharply reduced. The admissible amount of suction should not be more than 6 ... 8%.

Cyclones not only remove dust from the ambient air, but can also supply clean air into the room.

Household cyclone design

There are no universal cyclones for performing various cleaning operations. For example, a chip sucker should have increased pipe wall strength to prevent premature wear. For a cyclone designed to collect and remove sawdust, it is important to ensure that the losses in the suction ducts are kept to a minimum. Providing a cyclone for the purpose of air purification from cement dust generated in construction works, Special attention devote to the design of filters.

In domestic conditions, cyclones are considered the most versatile, cleaning the air from coarse dust. By changing the design of the filters, such devices can be made for the purpose of dust removal, as a chip suction, to clean the air from sawdust in a woodworking workshop (for example, at an operating sawmill).

The components of such a unit are:

• body - includes conical and cylindrical parts, and the shape of the conical part has a predominant effect on the quality of the process;
• a branch pipe - one or more, where the original polluted air enters;
• an exhaust pipe designed to remove dust-free air;
• inlet filter (or their system) as a chip suction;
• receiving bucket;
• drive motor;
• fan.

All of the listed parts / assemblies can be purchased or made by hand.

Choosing an electric motor

Since a home-made cyclone is installed in a workshop, the main parameters of the engine are its power and the number of rotor revolutions. In the presence of a fan, the engine power does not really matter, since dust particles still go into a working machine, sawmill, etc. will not fall. However, the capacity and diameter of the cyclone volute must be interconnected. With a snail wheel diameter of up to 300 ... 350 mm, a high-speed (necessarily!) Engine up to 1.5 kW is quite suitable. Smaller diameters may lower the output, but the cleaning performance will also decrease. Therefore, if there is a metalworking machine in the workshop, an engine of 1 kW is taken.

The power of the electric motor increases significantly if you plan to equip yourself homemade device outside the premises. There will be more free space, but the cleaning efficiency will decrease, mainly due to losses in the air ducts. It is also worth noting that in the cold season, such a homemade cyclone will effectively "draw" heat from the workshop.

The purchase of an electric motor complete with a receiving snail, the number of which determines the consumer capabilities of a home-made air purification system, should be recognized as a good option. Most common for household use parameters of snails and electric motors recommended for them are given in the table:

The systems are supplied with rubber vibration isolators. They are capable of creating a working pressure of 0.8 kPa and above.

When choosing (or making with your own hands) a snail, preference should be given to a radial air intake scheme than a tangential one.

In the latter case, unproductive losses increase for a homemade snail, and the inertia of the particle selection method for the variant with a chip suction will be very low.

When choosing an engine, it must be borne in mind that the speed of air movement in the device cannot be less than 2.5 ... 3 m / s. In case of unsatisfactory cleaning, the elements of a home-made cyclone like a chip suction (filter, bucket) are quickly clogged with shavings, sawdust and other small waste.

Manufacturing of cyclone elements

On specialized forums on the Internet, you can find drawings of all the components of the unit, which are available in order to make them yourself. From improvised means, a household (or better - an industrial) vacuum cleaner is often altered. Additionally required:

• a set of hoses made of translucent corrugated material (this will facilitate visual inspection of dust particles that have settled inside). For a chip suction, rubber hoses are more practical;
• a soundproof box, which will perform two functions - will provide a decrease in the noise level in the workshop, and additional protection of all machines and power tools located there from static electricity periodically accumulated by dust. For this purpose, the box can be made with your own hands from plywood, and from the inside you can trim any type of sound insulator;
• air ducts for purified air: assembled by hand from a thin aluminum sheet, and connected with folds;
• a container for collecting waste - can be made from an ordinary construction bucket with a capacity of 20 liters or more, which is sealed with the body of a homemade cyclone using a corrugated sleeve;
• filter (you can use a filter from trucks), which is installed on the outlet pipe.

The vacuum cleaner, redesigned for the needs of dust removal, is checked: first, at idle, driving ordinary air through the system, and then with the vacuum cleaner connected to a working machine.

From the very beginning of my work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only way to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a palpable layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in the hair and in the lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was spraying water before sweeping and using a respirator. However, these are only half measures. In winter, water freezes in an unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. The respirator, firstly, does not block 100% of the dust, some part is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on the environment. And not all the nooks and crannies can be crawled through with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of work (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, the suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust, which greatly exceeds the calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. You need something more specialized here.

There are many ready-made solutions for dust removal in a workshop, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 crisis, does not make them too affordable. On thematic forums, I found an interesting solution - to use a cyclone filter in conjunction with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner. All of the above problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved by removing dirt and dust from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some collect cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewers, and still others from plywood and whatever imagination is enough for. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.

The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in a conical filter housing and dust is removed from the air by centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the bottom hole into the container under the filter, and the cleaned air comes out through the top hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the most frequent problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called "roundabout". This is a situation when dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust collection container, but endlessly swirl inside the filter. This situation arises from too high speed air flow generated by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. You need to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the "carousel" into the container and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I missed the junction of the filter with the lid with hot glue.

I decided to take a larger container for collecting dust so that it was less often necessary to take out the garbage. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is what you need! I am going to carry the barrel to the trash like a grandmother string bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.

Next is the choice of layout. Some people install the dust collector permanently and lead the ducts to the machines. Others simply place a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the desired location. I wanted to make a mobile installation on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose an arrangement in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, taking up a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. Frame made of shaped pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

With a vertical arrangement, there is a possibility of overturning. To reduce this likelihood, you need to weight the base as much as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The tangible weight of the trolley is compensated by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to pour lead shot or sand into the cavity of the frame. But that was not required.

In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vice came in handy. Thanks to such a simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate installation corners.

It is convenient to move the trolley, holding on to the vertical rods, therefore, strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with clamps.

In the upper part of the boom there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners at the bottom and fixed wooden planks using self-tapping screws.

That is, in fact, the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I didn’t seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage efficiently. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and a welded face mask quickly fog up, impairing visibility, and bulky outerwear restricts movement. But the task is completed. In addition, there are only a couple of weeks left until spring.

I really didn't want to leave the frame like this. I wanted to paint it. But on all cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at temperatures not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
I read thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, as long as the paint is not water-based and there is no condensation on the parts. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not steam at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened Hammerayt jar in the zagashniki, which I used to paint a horizontal bar in the summer cottage -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original solvent, Hammerayt added some regular degreaser to it to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In the summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how much it dried in winter, but when I returned to the workshop the next evening the paint was dry. True without the promised hammer effect. Probably the degreaser is to blame, not negative temperature... Otherwise, no other problems were found. The coating both looks and feels reliable. Perhaps it is not in vain that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The cyclone body is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But the attachment of the filter to the barrel lid is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. In this case, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the fastening of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. The people have different approaches to solving this problem. Basically, an additional stiffening frame for the filter is assembled. The designs are very diverse, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this in a slightly different way. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.

In this holder, I clamp the hose, which is responsible for all the twists and jerks. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled straight behind the hose without fear of damage.

I decided to fix the barrel with lashing straps. When I chose to hardware store locks made an interesting observation. A five-meter lashing strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a naked Russian-made "frog" lock lying next to it would have cost me 250 rubles. This is where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technologies lies.

Experience has shown that this mounting method has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels, like mine, when connecting a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during testing, I deliberately blocked the hole of the hose and the barrel shrank under the influence of the vacuum. But thanks to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop there was a dent. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent itself straightened with a click.

In the upper part of the unit there is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As a household vacuum cleaner, I acquired a bagless, almost two kilowatt monster. I was just thinking, and at home this would be useful to me.
Buying a vacuum cleaner on an ad ran into some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, shortcomings in appearance at prices lower than store prices by some 15-20 percent. And okay, it would be some kind of common things, but used vacuum cleaners! Judging by the term of placing ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And one has only to start bargaining and call an adequate price, as you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days I still found an excellent option for myself for 800 rubles. Famous brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and another fine filter.
I couldn’t think of anything more elegant to fasten it than to press it down with a lashing strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to be a little clever with the connection of the hoses. As a result, we have such an installation. And it works!

Usually, when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people are choking with delight. Here is something similar and I experienced it when I first turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, which is impossible to sweep due to the dust stuck in the pores, so clean. Persistent attempts to sweep it lead only to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me for a couple of light movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

It was possible to collect in the barrel what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During operation of the device, due to the translucency of the filter, it is possible to observe streams of dust swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but there was an insignificant amount of it and these were especially light and volatile fractions.

I am very pleased with the result. There will be no more dust storms in the workshop. You can say I'm going into new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Takes up the minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without fear of pulling out the filter.
3. The drum is protected from crushing when the inlet is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still faced the problem of lack of barrel rigidity.
I got a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks stones, nuts, screws, tears off the plaster and pulls out bricks from the masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! The tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have a camera with me, it's a pity. But it looks like this:

On the thematic forums, they warn about such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty, he straightened the barrel and sent it, pretty crumpled, to the dacha to store the water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy a metal barrel instead of a plastic one. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my setup - diameter 480, height 800. A surface search on the Internet did not give any result.
2. Self-assembly the box the right size from 15 mm plywood. This is more real.

The box was assembled for self-tapping screws. Sealed the joints with double-sided foam tape.

The cart had to be altered a little - to digest the rear clamp for a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and increased volume due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows a waste bag to be placed in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it an order of magnitude cleaner (tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). The old barrel did not allow this.

The cover was sealed with foamed insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four frog locks. They create the necessary interference to seal the lid on the foam gasket. A little higher, I wrote about pricing policy on these frog locks. But I had to fork out.

It turned out well. Nice, functional, reliable. How I love.

An article on how I did homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter. The performance of this useful homemade products for home can be appreciated by watching the video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. I am generally satisfied with the result of the work done (if you consider that this is a working prototype, so to speak).

I will say right away: this article is a presentation of my history of the creation of my first (and as I think not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner, and I in no way intend to impose anything on anyone, prove and assert that the solutions described here are the only correct and infallible. Therefore, I ask you to treat with understanding, so to speak "understand and forgive." Hope mine little experience will be useful to people like me who are "sick" people to whom "a bad head does not give rest to their hands" (in good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming repairs and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and "perforate", the experience of the past suggested that we must look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are still designed with a filter (in some models even with a special "shaker") or a paper bag + filter that clogs, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. Yes, and just this topic interested, and there was, so to speak, "purely sports interest." In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Penz), I did it from what came to hand and by my own instinct. On occasion, on the classifieds website (for 1100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence, I came across such a vacuum cleaner. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit - it will be a donor!

The cyclone body itself decided to be made of metal, because there were strong doubts about how long, for example, plastic walls would last under the influence of "sandpaper" from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbing debris against its walls, and did not want the future homemade vacuum cleaner metal sparks to their users. And personally, I think that dust sticking due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for building a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

Contaminated air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest passes through the car air filter, engine, and out through the outlet. It was decided to make a branch pipe to the outlet, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow the vacuum cleaner to be used, for example, to blow out something. You can also use an additional hose to make the "exhaust" air out to the street so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests an idea to attach this unit as a "built-in" stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing up the dust around (blow with one hose, pull in the other).

The air filter is chosen “flat”, not annular, so that when it is turned off, the debris that got there would fall into the bin. Considering that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then its replacement will not be required soon, as in the usual construction vacuum cleaner with filter without cyclone. Moreover, at the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles), it is much cheaper than the "branded" filters that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with an ordinary household vacuum cleaner by attaching it to the cyclone inlet. In this case, garbage from the bin will not be sucked in. The filter mount is collapsible for easy cleaning and replacement.

For the cyclone body, a suitable can, and the central branch pipe is made of a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with the expectation of plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which, with a suitable rubber sleeve, the hose available in the vacuum cleaner is quite tightly inserted.

The other end of the branch pipe turns into a rectangle, so to speak, to "straighten" the flow. Its width was chosen according to the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L = (3.14 * 50 mm - 2 * 32) / 2 = 46.5 mm. Those. section of the branch pipe 32 * 46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure on soldering with acid and a 100 Watt soldering iron (I worked with tin for almost the first time, except for the soldering of ships in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

Soldered the central pipe. The cone was made according to a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The body for the auto filter is also made from galvanized templates.

He bent the upper part of the central pipe of the air duct in the shape of a square and fitted the lower opening of the body (pyramid) of the autofilter under it. Put it all together. On the sides of the can, the cyclone made three guides to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is such a "gravity".

For the garbage container and the engine compartment, I used 2 barrels of engine oil (60 liters). Too big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued spongy rubber to the surface of the garbage container for sealing around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The cyclone-"gravicapu" was fastened with M10 studs and nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent loosening from vibration. Hereinafter, all the places where tightness is needed was articulated with a rubber seal (or rubber washers) and auto-sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage container, I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to remove them a little in a solvent and "correct" with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure with polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe, suddenly there would be a need to disassemble. In addition, everything turned out pretty tough and strong.

For ease of movement and transportation of the waste container, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container has a flange on the bottom, it was necessary to make an additional "bottom" of a plastic sheet 10 mm thick to install the wheels. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not "squelch" when the vacuum cleaner was in operation.

The base for fastening the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture "Euro screws". To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto the epoxy (I think that 4 would be enough). Painted. I glued it with spongy rubber around the perimeter of the filter installation site.

When assembling the neck of the auto filter body around the perimeter, I missed the sealant and pulled it to the base with self-tapping screws with a flat head.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For more uniform distribution air over the area of ​​the filter, I chose a recess of 7 mm in the site with a milling cutter.

The vacuum cleaner's plastic engine compartment was used to collect the exhaust air and mount the motor. From it "all unnecessary" was cut off and glued to the epoxy with reinforcement with self-tapping screws the outlet pipe. Everything is put together on a sealant and using metal profile(thick spongy rubber is inserted into it) pulled to the engine platform by two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and are filled with hot glue for tightness. PTFE nuts to prevent loosening from vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module is obtained. For ease of access to the autofilter, it is fastened with eight wing nuts. The enlarged washers are glued (the Schaub did not run away).

I made a hole for the outlet.

I painted the entire "pepelats" black from a spray can, having previously cleaned it with sandpaper and degreased.

The engine speed regulator used the existing one (see photo), adding it homemade scheme to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations on the diagram of a homemade vacuum cleaner:

Automatic machines (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 respectively protect the circuits for connecting the power tool (socket XS1) and the circuit for regulating the speed of the vacuum cleaner motor. When the instrument is turned on, its load current flows through the VD2-VD4 and VD5 diodes. They were selected according to the reference book because of the large voltage drop across them with direct current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let's call it "positive") half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through the fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges the capacitor C1. The FU1 fuse and the RU1 varistor (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from overvoltage damage, which may occur, for example, in the event of an open (burnout) in the VD2-VD4 diode chain. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to "save" already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of the capacitor C1 during the "negative" half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens the DA1 optocoupler, the thyristor of which is included in the control circuit of the motor speed regulator. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected the same rating as in the vacuum cleaner controller board (it is removed) and made external (in the case from the dimmer) to be placed on the upper cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered to it in parallel. Switch S2 "on / off" in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 "automatic / manual". In manual control mode S1 is on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - terminals 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool due to the large capacity of the capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This is enough time to suck the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and XS1 socket are selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3 * 2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with an earthing contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight against static electricity). Taking into account the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner in conjunction with the power tool, the selected cable section is sufficient so as not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3 * 4) is correspondingly heavier and coarser, which would create inconvenience when using a vacuum cleaner. It was decided to abandon the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and the power tool.

The top cover is secured with a stud and wing nut.

For the convenience of removing the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit through a connector. The motor and vacuum cleaner housing are connected to a protective earth conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to insert a garbage bag into the bin, I pasted over the upper edge with a rubber seal for doors cut along the length.

And so that the garbage bag does not get sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

Completion and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place already at the beginning of the repair, so to speak in "combat" conditions. The traction, of course, is several times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy debris from concrete is almost completely deposited in the bin and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the bin. The dust from the putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is filtered out worse by the cyclone, which makes it necessary to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a water vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting apparatus eventually turned out to be operational and has already passed the test during the repair of one room. Now I consider it rather as a working model from the series "it will work out or not for the sake of interest."

The main disadvantages of this design:

- relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room on wheels very easily. You can use barrels of 30 liters, for example. Operation has shown that such a large waste bin is inconvenient for cleaning, and a bag with a large amount of rubbish can break.

- the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, up to 50 mm and use a hose from industrial vacuum cleaner(but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although, even with the existing hose, the debris is collected quite cheerfully, unless of course you try to pull in half of the brick.

- it is necessary to make an easily removable fastening of an additional autofilter and an engine, for more convenient and efficient maintenance and cleaning.

- a thermal relay can be included in the control circuit (only to determine the response temperature) to protect the motor from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by the introduction of a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this "pepelats". And a separate thank you very much to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to the readers.