Sewer outlet. How to make a sewer in a private house

In our time, it is almost impossible to imagine a private house without the sanitary benefits of civilization. Bathrooms, showers, household appliances and other equipment, one way or another, must be able to remove sewage outside the home.

Without a quality liquid drainage system, this will be very difficult to do.

Design

The project of the sewer system, all auxiliary and treatment facilities should be done at the design stage of the house. This will make it possible to correctly arrange all communication channels, which, accordingly, will allow the entire system to work effectively in the future.

It is desirable that the entire internal and external highway have as few complex nodal connections and sharp turns as possible. At this stage, you can also calculate the diameter of the pipes and, of course, choose the pipes themselves.

Photo: sewerage project plan

The design of sewer channels is very closely related to the laying of water supply. Often the main water supply pipes are mounted together with the central sewer riser.

This suggests that the entire design procedure should take into account other communications at home, to facilitate the wiring of systems and the rational use of special channels.

Photo: prepared channels for pipes

The design part of the sewer also includes determining the location for a septic tank, drainage pits and other outdoor communications.

Important! Without taking into account the level of soil freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater, it is impossible to correctly calculate all the volumes of outdoor work.

Best of all, specialists of the appropriate profile will cope with this task, and further excavation and installation work can be done independently.

Determining the angle of inclination

Since most systems are gravity flow, the angle of inclination of the pipes during installation plays a very important role. If the slopes are not observed, blockages and sewage failure are inevitable. But if you follow certain rules, then this can be avoided.

Photo: compliance with the angle of inclination

Firstly, different diameters, not the same. The greater the internal patency of the channel, the smaller the angle of inclination is made.

It is also worth considering the internal coating of pipes - with a rough structure of the material, the angle, although not significantly, should be increased.

There are regulatory documents that define the correct slopes for sewer pipes of various diameters. So, for example, for the most popular pipes in modern sewerage, with a diameter of 110 mm, the slope should be at least 0.02 (2 cm per 1 m / p).

Photo: dimensions of the angle of inclination

Installing a pipe with such a slope will allow sewage to move at a normal speed and prevent suspended particles from settling.

Below is a table with slopes for the most common pipe diameters in relation to plumbing equipment:

plumbing fixture	Pipe diameter, mm	Tilt angle
Toilet	100	1:20
bath, shower	40-50	1:48
Sink, sink	40-50	1:12-1:36
Bidet	40-50	1:20

When laying highways, the angles of inclination described below should be observed:

• for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm - 3 cm per m / n;
• for pipes with a diameter of 160 mm - 0.008 cm per m / n;
• for pipes with a diameter of 200 mm - 0.007 cm per m / p.

To make it clearer, let's look at one example. Assume that the length of the pipeline is 10 meters. Pipe diameter 50 mm. This means that the difference between the lower and upper edges of the pipe should be 30 cm (0.03 x 10).

How to rotate sewer pipes

When installing an internal sewerage system in a private house, it becomes necessary to change the direction of the pipe.

For this procedure, all kinds of fittings are used, which can differ not only in angular characteristics, but also in structural data.

Important! It is also worth remembering that any connection is a guaranteed leak point if the parts are not mated correctly. Swivel fittings are also a place for sediment accumulation and blockages. Therefore, it is necessary to install revisions in particularly difficult areas.

Photo: sewerage fitting

Based on this, it is worth taking a very responsible attitude to the rotary nodes of the pipeline. To begin with, you should refuse to turn the pipes by 90 degrees in the horizontal plane.

It is better to replace this assembly with a 45 degree fitting. If this is not possible, then it is advisable to install an inspection well at the place of the turn.

Photo: revision well

With internal wiring of the sewer, it is worth avoiding the docking of the outlets with the central riser at a right angle. To a greater extent, this applies to kitchen outlets.

Firstly, this will make it impossible to set the tilt angle correctly.

Secondly, the specificity of kitchen drains is such that grease and food particles cannot be removed properly.

Important! Particular attention should be paid to connecting the toilet. There should be the least number of turning points at this point, therefore, the installation of this plumbing is carried out, if possible, as close as possible to the outlet channel.

Regardless of the number of sewer risers in the house, all are combined into one sewer branch, which diverts effluents further to treatment or storage facilities. In most cases, this place is the basement.

Photo: sewer interchange

Pipe turns in this sewer "interchange" should be done with fittings with an angle of rotation of 45 and 90 degrees.

At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the entire structure with retaining hangers and install revision nodes.

Odor prevention

Unpleasant odors in the house can appear for several reasons. The most common of these are poor ventilation of the room, in particular the bathroom, and problems with water seals.

If ventilation can be dealt with without any problems by installing an exhaust fan, then with siphons it is not so simple.

The problem may be a mistake made during the installation of the pipeline. The absence or incorrect (negative) slope can cause clogging and, as a result, the passage channel narrows.

Photo: narrowing of the passage channel of the sewer pipe

This can cause a complete blockage of the outlet, then due to overflow of the pipe, water can be sucked out of the siphon, opening the way for sewer gases.

Also, the reason may be the installation of pipes of a smaller diameter, not provided for this type of plumbing. You can eliminate it either by cleaning, or, most difficultly, by altering part of the pipeline.

Photo: blockage removal

In the case when unpleasant "aromas" have not yet filled the room, it is worth taking a number of preventive actions.

They include:

• washing kitchen channels from the accumulation of fatty deposits with boiling water and detergent;
• timely cleaning of siphons from debris accumulated in the sump;
• dishes should be washed after cleaning them from food debris;
• do not throw various garbage into the toilet, in the form of newspapers, papers, etc.

Another point that occupies a special place in the installation of sewage systems is ventilation pipes in septic tanks and cesspools.

In their absence, sewer gas will certainly find a way out, and it will most likely be in a restroom or shower room.

The device of inspection hatches

For full maintenance and cleaning of the sewer network, as well as for free access to the pipeline, inspection hatches are used.

Depending on the installation location, they can be ceiling, wall and floor type. With regard to sewer systems, consider the last two types.

Wall hatches are often disguised as tiles, thereby visually without violating the integrity of the coating. The design itself is made in such a way that when the hatch is closed, the possibility of damaging the glued tiles is completely excluded.

Photo: built-in inspection hatch

Wall-mounted inspection hatches are of two types and differ in mechanism. The first type is pressure, the name of which in itself speaks of the principle of operation. The hatch consists of a metal frame with a hinged door.

Also, the mechanism of the inspection hatch has magnets to fix the hatch in the closed state.

Photo: inspection hatch

The second type is front-swing. It has a similar design with a pressure hatch, but differs in the design of the hinges and fixing latches.

Do-it-yourself outdoor sewer installation

The elements of the external sewer system include all parts that are equipped outside the building.

Installing sewerage in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

1. The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire line should be made as straight as possible.
2. If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.

Installation of external sewerage also has some features that you will have to face:

1. Large volume of earthworks. It is necessary to lay the external sewage system, taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
2. Creation of a sewer well. Before you create a sewer in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drains, which is primarily affected by the number of residents. The large estimated volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be large enough.
3. System type selection. The quality of the collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the convenience of operating the sewer system, will be directly affected by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has an extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment plant will be expensive, but its performance will be at the highest level. See also: "".

In any case, external sewerage imposes special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

earthworks

Earthwork is one of the first stages of sewerage construction. You can perform these works both independently and with the involvement of additional forces (teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work, it is necessary to mark the area along which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using equipment, the required value will not be reached, so you will have to level everything yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Arrangement of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials:

• brickwork;
• metal tank;
• plastic septic tank.

Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:

1. Devices made of bricks or blocks are pretty good elements of the sewer system, but their arrangement takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, it may take several days to create a brick well.
2. The metal structure compares favorably with the brick one by ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much less: the metal is easily corroded, and very soon the device will become faulty.
3. Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since strength, reliability and durability can be distinguished among their advantages. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is a difficult installation: finished rings have a considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
4. Plastic septic tanks can also be attributed to reliable and high-quality structures: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of construction is somewhat higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs for arranging, for example, concrete wells, then the price will almost be equal.

How to install sewer pipes

The installation of the pipeline usually starts from the house - it is easier to monitor compliance with the slope of the structure. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the line to the sewer well. For this, couplings are also used that connect all pipes of the external sewage system to each other and to the internal sewage system. When the pipes are mounted and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

The subtleties of arranging sewerage

There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer:

Too deep level of soil freezing. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase very much. You can avoid this phenomenon with the help of thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

• with the help of heat-insulating materials that do this job well;
• with the help of electric heating, implemented by a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.

The need to maintain slope. It is imperative to observe the slope, and its value must be within the specified limits. The reason for this sounds like this: too little slope will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon become clogged, and if the slope exceeds the norm, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Design choice. The selection of a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewerage more understandable, it is worth reading an article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installation of sewerage in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any special problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for work, then the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

Modern man is spoiled by civilization. Sewerage, which not so long ago seemed to be a component of elite housing, today has become an integral part of almost any apartment. Those who live in multi-storey comfortable houses do not have to think about the design and installation of this system, but the owners of individual buildings have a harder time. Domestic sewerage is a rather complex system. The efficiency and reliability of its operation directly depends on the design and installation of the structure. How to avoid errors in the process of arranging the system? Let's figure it out.

Where to start construction work?

Arrangement of internal sewerage involves the installation of risers of fan pipes and the installation of piping in the premises. It is best to take care of the drainage system at the design stage of the building and place all the "wet" rooms at a minimum distance from each other. Ideally, make them adjacent, so you can significantly simplify the arrangement of internal sewage. It is also important to correctly determine the location of the collector pipe, to which all pipelines will converge.

Now you can begin to develop a scheme for future sewage:

• Observing the scale, we draw a plan of the building.
• We mark on it the location of the risers.
• We put on the diagram all the plumbing fixtures that are planned to be installed. We note for ourselves the features of their connection.
• We draw pipelines that will connect risers and plumbing equipment. We mark all the necessary turns, joints, etc. Be sure to indicate the connecting elements that will be required for the installation of tees, bends, etc.
• We determine the parameters of the riser and the fan pipe.

In accordance with the scheme, the installation of the system will subsequently be carried out, in addition, it will help determine the amount of materials needed.

Internal sewerage includes risers of fan pipes and piping in all internal premises of a private house

Now you need to choose a pipe laying method. There can be two of them: hidden and open. In the second case, the trunk is mounted on a wall or floor. The first is more time-consuming and involves the execution of strobes in structures into which pipes are subsequently laid. When choosing this option, experts advise laying internal water and sewer pipes in one gate. Plumbing is on top and sewage is on the bottom. This is very convenient, as it reduces the time required for installation work, and their volume. In addition, much less material is required to seal the strobe.

Here is an example of such work:

Important points when designing a system

When designing internal sewerage, the following aspects must be taken into account:

• For a gravity system, and internal sewage is such, it must be maintained. For pipes with a diameter of 50 to 80 mm, it is 2 cm per meter; for products with a diameter of 80-100 mm, the slope increases to 3 cm per meter.
• The drain pipes of the dishwasher and kitchen sink must be equipped with grease traps.
• The toilet must be connected to the riser only by a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
• For a house with several floors, the diameter of the riser should be 100-110 mm. It must be equipped with hatches for cleaning.
• It is best if there is only one sewer riser in the house. All branches of the internal sewer system will approach it.
• The location of the outlet of the pipeline is determined by the location of the collection well, which must be installed at the lowest point of the site. The outlet is located in the wall closest to the well.

Such devices provide a very high degree of wastewater treatment. At the same time, sewage from organic matter is decomposed by bacteria.

They need oxygen to survive and reproduce. Therefore, it is injected into the septic tank with a special compressor. And the more microorganisms in the septic tank, the more efficient the installation.

Some models provide chemical cleaning, and this is already a 100% guarantee that the outlet water will be completely clean. Of course, you can’t use it in everyday life, but it is suitable for irrigation.

And some more helpful tips.

When choosing a septic tank, determine its volume in advance. The exact calculation is based on 3 indicators:

• number of people living in the house
• the daily rate of water consumption by one person is 200 liters
• three-day volume of processed wastewater

After laying the pipeline, do not plan the construction of facilities in the places where sewer pipes are laid.

If the external sewerage is too long, then several manholes must be installed. Through them, you can carry out system maintenance and clear blockages. The distance between the manholes should be within 20-25 meters.

That's all the subtleties regarding the conduct of a sewer system in your home.

If desired, even a private house in the countryside can be equipped. The first thing a country dweller faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How to do it?

External and internal

Work related to the arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a fan pipe, a riser, as well as piping to all rooms where it is required is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom and so on. As for the external system, this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to a septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge wastewater into a centralized system. If the house is located on an isolated site, then a system with a homemade septic tank should be created. It can be with or cumulative. The cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Laying scheme in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, all the features of the house and the location of the premises should be taken into account. The finished version can look like anything.

When designing sewerage inside the house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after that it is possible to determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to draw the right diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

1. On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
2. Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or the collector pipe.
3. At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing should be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
4. From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
5. It is necessary to measure the length of each element of the internal system and summarize the data. The result is the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is the drawing up of a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging an internal system

The laying of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate scheme. At this stage, there are several things to consider:

1. To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
2. For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
3. To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages in the process of using the sewer.
4. It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage inside the house, or such material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewers in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. For wiring inside the house, gray pipes are used. For the arrangement of the external system, pipes of an orange tint are required. You can explain the difference in color based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more serious loads. The material for their manufacture should be more rigid.

In order for the laying of sewerage in a private house to be successful with your own hands, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. Much cheaper and no less effective is the use of orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Laying a sewer in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve the quality.

The easiest option for laying sewerage is the use of PVC or PP pipes. A fairly wide range of such products is produced. If necessary, you can purchase material of the desired diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage of a private house takes a little time. Joints are connected easily and at the same time reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. For this, a silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable.

What to Consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

1. If pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on system fragments.
2. The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material whose diameter is 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Arrangement of sewer outlet

If a problem arises and the internal system does not match the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the boundary zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter, difficulties may arise during the operation of the sewer. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. From each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for the release of sewage.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. Installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, use suspension brackets and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other fragments of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to refuse the use of sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bath, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water seals. These elements do not allow unpleasant odors to penetrate into the living room.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the fan pipe is brought to the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the ventilation system of the building or to the chimney.

Types of septic tanks

Laying an external sewage system in a private house is no less important than installing an internal system. With improper arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn the sewer into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic device. The most commonly used facilities are settling type. This is a container or a combination of them through which drains pass. Gradually they clear up. This occurs due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After the drains pass additional purification in the filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out. This method of arranging an external system is easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not so difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. The average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an outdoor system

The laying of sewerage in a private house does not end after the complete installation of the internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

1. First you need to prepare the materials: a finished container of the required volume made of PP or reinforced concrete rings. If desired, you can lay out of brick or pour a monolith.
2. The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
3. After earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under the tank and trenches for laying pipes.
4. All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
5. Pipes should be mounted at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. Joints must be sealed.
6. The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
7. After carrying out work on thermal and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, it is possible to fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of the buildings on the plot. Do not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will get a reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewer, it is necessary to carry out its run. To do this, the system must be flushed with clean water. This will identify any shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system be started.

In fact, the process of editing individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up a sewerage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

To make a sewer in your own home, you need to solve a lot of related problems. The biggest difficulty is the withdrawal of the pipeline from the house. The reason is quite simple. The house always stands on a solid foundation.

It is poured to different depths, so there are several methods for removing the pipe:

• Laying a pipeline under the foundation;
• Installation through walls.

Sewer pipes are mainly laid under the floors. This is due to technological necessity. Therefore, the installation of such a pipeline has to be done through the entire foundation area.

Having a finished house, the question immediately arises: how to bring the sewer through the foundation? To bring the sewer pipeline out of your own home, you need to install a border system that connects the septic tank to the outgoing pipes.

The outlet of the pipe passes through the foundation. Moreover, the depth of installation should exceed the amount of soil freezing. The work is carried out in the following sequence.

Stage 1. A trench is digging in which the external and internal systems will dock.

Stage 2. A hole is made in the foundation for the sewer. For work you will need:

• Perforator;
• Metal punch;
• Electric drill;
• Set of drills.

If it is not possible to make a hole with such tools, a special diamond installation is used.

The drilling process is always quite complicated, because you have to drill a concrete base. If a reinforcing mesh was made, you will have to use a grinder. It is easy to deal with fittings. Sometimes it takes several days to get the right hole.

First, on the surface of the foundation, the place where the pipeline will be displayed is determined. A circle is drawn in this place, and its diameter must exceed the size of the sewer pipe, together with the sleeve.

The hammer drills concrete to the maximum depth. The occurring bars of the reinforcement are cut off by the grinder.

Important! When it becomes necessary to create a large diameter hole, for example, for installing a sewer in a large house, use a drilling rig.

To make a hole in a concrete foundation, builders use several methods:

• Diamond drilling. It is considered the best option. The foundation material during such work does not receive damage. This technology is one of the most expensive, even if you rent such a machine;
• Perforator. Percussive drilling in progress. The negative side is slotting, which causes the appearance of microcracks. Concrete begins to flake off the reinforcing mesh;
• Hammerless drilling. One of the safest and time consuming methods. A large number of smaller holes are drilled around the entire perimeter of the desired large hole. A concrete cork is knocked out with a sledgehammer, the reinforcement is cut with scissors for metal.

Advice! The installation of the sewer pipe should take place at a slight slope. To do this, the hole diameter is made a little larger (10-20 mm).

Stage 3. A sleeve is first laid in the channel made, then a pipeline is laid. The resulting gaps are closed with mounting foam. It also becomes a good heat insulator.

Digging under a concrete base

If the septic tank is located near the house (within five meters), and the thickness of the foundation does not exceed one meter, the easiest option for installing a sewer is to create a dig in the place where the pipeline intersects with the base of the house.

The trench is not made very deep, which reduces the complexity of such an operation.

Before starting to lay under the foundation, marking work is carried out. The point of coincidence of the pipe and the future sewer passage is marked.

When performing such work, the thickness of the walls, which are the starting point, must be taken into account. If you do not follow this rule, the trenches may not match. They will not connect in a specific place. We'll have to start all over again. This will cause additional financial costs.

When the trench is ready, a sewer pipe is laid in it, maintaining the required slope.

With a shallow occurrence of the pipeline, the sewer passage must be insulated, exclude freezing of the channel and the formation of ice. It can cause blockage of the entire space.

Backfilling the trench is carried out carefully, small portions of soil. Thus, displacement of the withdrawn pipe is not allowed, and its slope is not allowed to change.

An additional pipe is passed directly under the foundation, the diameter of which is much larger than the sewer pipe. The length of this segment is made equal to the width of the foundation of the house. It plays the role of a sleeve in which the main pipeline is laid.

Such a device protects the sewer in the event of an unexpected subsidence of the foundation. When repair work is carried out, it is much easier to replace the damaged area.

Slab foundation and laying of communications

This type of foundation requires very precise calculations, even at the very beginning of the project.

After pouring such a foundation with errors, it will be impossible to lay the necessary communications.
Therefore, the trench is dug first. All communications and sewer pipes, dressed in special protective sleeves, fit into it.

In a slab foundation, the sleeve plays a very important role. It protects the monolithic slab from high pressure, and also facilitates the process of replacing a damaged pipe section. If the sleeve is missing, it is simply impossible to replace the pipe in such a foundation. The pipe can also be damaged at the time of pouring the foundation.

Conclusion

The laying of the pipeline requires special attention. It is imperative to take into account the type of foundation and use only the appropriate technology. Only in this case, we can talk about correctly performed work that will facilitate sewer maintenance in the future.

Sewerage and its arrangement in a private house is not such a complicated matter. This can be done even with your own hands, without spending money on specialists. And along with this, you get pride in your golden hands that were able to build a sewer.

First, the whole family needs to confer and decide where the plumbing units will be located. In the kitchen, decide on the sink and dishwasher, do not forget about the washing machine, bathroom (toilet, bathtub, sink). Pay attention to every little thing.

Then we move on to the next moment.

In order not to buy unnecessary details, draw a sewer wiring diagram ahead of time. See options for various wiring diagrams to help you design your circuit.

You can not try to draw everything clearly and beautifully. A simple sketch will be enough, where the dimensions of the house will be indicated. Mark the points where plumbing fixtures will be connected. Further, these points must be connected by means of lines (pipes), corners (bends). Do not forget to take into account the length of the pipes: 15 cm, 25 cm, 50 cm, 75 cm, 1 m, 1.5 m, 2 m and 3 m. Also consider the bend angles: 15°, 30°, 45°, 67.5° and 87.5°. There are also elements such as crosses and tees, but their angles are presented in fewer variations: 45 ° and 87.5 °. But the advantage of the crosses is that they can be connected to several pipes that have different diameters. You can look at the catalog of sewer pipes, where the range is offered, and then you will already have an idea of ​​​​the difference between them, which suits you best. It is worth noting that you should not give preference to newfangled brands, because. in general, all products are the same, but there is a slight difference in molding, sealing gum. Therefore, choose what you like, regardless of the brand.

When you plan to turn pipes (sewer) left / right, but keep in mind that you want to achieve as smooth transitions as possible. No need to make a 90 degree angle. It is better to install a pair of bends that have 45 degree angles or 3 30 degree angles.

If it so happened that the pipe will pass through the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house, take care of the inspection hatches, as well as cleaning.

It is desirable to do wiring around the house with pipes of 110 mm. They clean everything better, and indeed, there is less risk of clogging with such a diameter. If you want to save money and lay one pipe from the kitchen to the bath, then keep in mind that such savings in the future may have a bad effect if the distance is large. Now you save, and in the future you will be spent during the period of operation. Savings in this case is questionable.

sewer ventilation

Sewerage needs ventilation. Be sure to think it through carefully. Sewerage is required for good work, namely, to provide excellent flushing. You, most likely, managed to experience the moment when you come to visit a private house, and there is both a bathroom and a toilet bowl - everything is like in apartments. But the toilet does not flush so well, the pressure is weak and sluggish. And in general, there is a lot of things that do not coincide with the apartment toilet besides the flush. After draining, for example, the water stays at first slightly below the usual level, and then gradually rises into place. Do you think it's bad plumbing? Actually, no. The fact is that this house did not provide for a sewer ventilation system. Slow flushing occurs for the reason that there has been a breakdown between the toilet bowl and the liquid that is leaving. And the amount of liquid in the toilet is drawn back slowly as it goes into the sewer after flushing, and air squeezes into the pipe. It's pretty simple, as it turns out.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that after the drain has passed, the hydraulic valve closes the toilet (this is the liquid that is constantly in the toilet). No liquid flows through this hydraulic valve. And the water that leaves the pipe reveals a vacuum. The fact is that the liquid does not leave too quickly, so blockages form. It also happens that when the toilet is flushed, the liquid from the hydro valve is sucked in by discharge, and the pipe from this sink takes on the function of ventilation until the liquid is in the hydro valve. Please note that the aromas will not come out the most delicious.

To prevent this, make sure that there is a sewage system in your room, i.e., do it yourself. Then everything will be fine. The vacuum will not occur, because. it will be compensated by fresh air from the street.

Sewerage: scheme of arrangement in a private house

For example, you can run a ventilation pipe inside the bathroom ventilation duct. Chimney pipes are installed above the roof - so they will go outside from different points. In no case do not bring the exhaust part of the sewage into the ventilation duct, because. it is forbidden.

What to do if sewer ventilation is not provided? In this case, ventilation valves will help. To eliminate the vacuum, it is not necessary to have access to fresh air. The air that is available in the house is quite enough. You can vent the sewers in your house, but keep in mind that doing so will not smell too good. To avoid this stinking problem, install a sewer ventilation valve.

The valve looks small, it helps to pass air from the house into the sewer, but at the same time, it does not let air into the house from the sewer itself. Therefore, any trouble can be easily dealt with.

Sewerage: installation in a private house

When you start installing the sewer, consider some details. For example, pipe slope. If the pipeline diameter is 40-50 mm, then 0.03 is required. A slope of 0.02 is required for a pipeline with a diameter of 85 and 100 mm. In simple words: if the pipe diameter is 40-50 mm, then the end of each meter of the pipe should be 3 cm lower.

If the pipe is 110, then the laying should be smoother. Each end of the meter should be 2 cm below the beginning of the pipe.

It should also be remembered that 15 centimeters per 1 linear meter is the largest pipe slope that should not be exceeded. The fact is that if this condition is not met, liquid waste will leave faster than solid waste, and one day your days will become more fragrant and more fun.

First, see if this excess is enough? Calculate what is the largest distance, and depending on the length of the pipe, calculate the excess. This parameter is very important at the moment when you have to cover the pipes under the floor - consider this parameter, then comes the concrete floor, which also takes up part of the height and consider the diameter of the pipe. So you calculate the level where you need to crash into the pipe, which was laid during the period of foundation pouring.

Agree that it is not so difficult and quite realistic to perform.

As we have already said, at the stage of pouring the basement part, the sewer outlet was concreted. This pipe must be sawn off to the level of your excess just below zero. Now you need to make a sewer wiring. The pipe must be fastened with special clamps. Some screw them directly to the base. This design is quite reliable, and then you can simply fill it with sand. The pipe will stay in place without changing the slope.

If you want the pipes to connect more easily, then grease them with something. Perfect, as an option, sunflower oil.

Once the installation work is complete, turn on the garden hose. See if it's leaking anywhere.

As you already understood from the above, self-installation of sewers is a fairly simple matter, easily feasible on your own for two times. You can easily cope with this task, even if such cases have not been seen in your track record before. The main thing to remember is that a bias is needed.

Removal of sewer pipes from the house

To finally dot the i, it is worth recalling the removal of the sewer from the building. For this, I want to once again clarify about the foundation fill. A great advantage is that at this point the installation of the sewer pipe and the water inlet pipe into the room has already been completed.

Now, if you want to join it from the outside, you will only need to dig a trench in the required location, excavate the pipe, then you remove the bag and clear everything of dirt. Next, connect the sewer pipe that leads to.

It is worth saying once again that it is necessary to remember all the little things and nuances that play a big role in this important process. Despite the fact that these are trifles, often their omission leads to sad consequences. And so, everything is quite easy and doable on your own, even if you take up this business for the first time.

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior decoration (plaster, putty, tile, drywall, wall paneling, laminate, and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, repairs in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all the necessary types of work.

Of course, it is best if the wiring of the sewerage in a private house with your own hands is carried out simultaneously with the laying of the foundation, even before the construction of the building box. Of course, this requires preliminary design and layout, but in this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation tape and dismantling the flooring.

But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Sewer pipeline installation

Five essential requirements

First, I want to list five basic requirements for you, without which not a single sewer pipe layout in a private house can do. But I will do it briefly to focus your attention on further installation instructions.

1. In any case, wherever you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to observe a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to the storage or flow tank - the quality of the drain depends on the correct slope. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again prerequisites for blockage will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
2. If this is a sewerage wiring in an apartment, then short sections of the pipeline are obtained there, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on the site exceeds 10 m, revision wells should be equipped there.
3. When laying a sewer system in a private house (meaning underground installation), certain distances to objects and structures should be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
4. In order to avoid freezing of the system in winter, the pipeline should be laid at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
5. Pipe laying should be done only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects the PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.

Sewer wiring in the room

First of all, it should be firmly understood that the sewerage wiring diagram in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in its principle. In 99%, the toilet drain will always be the most extreme point - this is a 110-mm pipe, where all the other bathrooms are already inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the upper diagram.

In any case, a 110 pipe is used at the exit from the room, whether it be a riser or a deck chair, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other sewage systems are connected there.

Of course, the slope is also important in the room - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drain is forced - there is even a counter-slope, if required by the features of the room.

In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main sewage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you'd better use the table that I give below.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

For joining pipes to each other, turns and transitions to a different diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, everything, even the most complex interchanges, is carried out. Basically, there is a sewerage distribution in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is concentrated, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.

A washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons are produced with a special outlet, as shown in the top photo.

By and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such a branch, but I personally prefer to make a drain with a 32 mm pipe for this, cutting it into a 50 mm pipe through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.

The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets - they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room that does not have to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.

If you need to hide the pipes, then there are certain inconveniences. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal tape hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.

It happens that during assembly one pipe enters the socket of the other very tightly, while crushing the sealing rubber ring - this usually happens when elements from different manufacturers are connected.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring with liquid dishwashing detergent and all problems are left behind.

Underground installation of the pipeline on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Yekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Soil freezing table up to 0⁰C in Russia

As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions of Russia is very different from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the site above sea level and the condition or type of soil.

Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the depth of freezing. That is, simply to find out from neighbors or acquaintances at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best orientation.

As I said, the instructions for burying the pipeline are sometimes too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is mounted at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - extruded polystyrene foam, foamed polyethylene or mineral wool can be used for this.

There are also special heaters that are made in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal section for installation.

I resort to shells only if the owner of the object wants it, since they are quite expensive, although of high quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the cotton wool with a nylon thread, and then cover it all with roofing material, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.

Only wool is needed here either basalt or glass - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.

You will nullify everything if, after insulating the track, you leave revision wells, storage tanks and a septic tank without insulation - you will get bare areas that will be. For their insulation, you can also use mineral wool or polystyrene, but it is much cheaper to do it with expanded clay, but it also needs waterproofing - just cover the pit with roofing material.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewers

In the third paragraph of the heading about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between sewers and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to clearly adhere to such provisions, or your “friendly” neighbors may unreasonably assert this.

Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and outlets of the internal sewerage - this will solve such problems.

Laying stages: 1 - pour the pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - close it with sand

And now I will tell you how the process of laying the pipeline into the trench with your own hands to the storage or flow tank takes place - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to fill in a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm and plan it in accordance with the required slope (on the 110th pipe 18-20 mm / linear m).

Then you lay the highway itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the layer thickness above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.

Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the volatility of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I pour plenty of water on the sand, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour the soil.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to add that you may need to insulate the pipeline not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not cancel the sand cushion. But if you have any questions about this topic - ask them in the comments.

July 7, 2016

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