How to connect the hood with ventilation. How to connect the hood to the ventilation with your own hands

About twenty or thirty years ago, a greasy ceiling and high humidity in the kitchen were the main accompanying troubles when cooking.

Let's not talk about the smell, because often it was pleasant and encouraged an increase in appetite. True, it was not always appropriate.

In those days, such problems were solved simply:

• The ceiling surface is greasy - we will make repairs (whitewash);
• It became very humid - let's open the window (it's a little cold, well, let's endure it);
• Do not like the smell of burnt fat - go outside and walk.

AT modern conditions people began to get used to the convenience and comfort. Yes, and saving the family budget comes to the fore.

So every year to do repairs - no money is enough. In addition, no one whitens the ceiling in the kitchen.

Therefore, there is only one way out, in order to get rid of all the above troubles, you need to install a modern hood.

Immediately, we note that manufacturers offer two main models:

1. Closed loop.
2. With a system of removal outside the room (photo above).

The first model has a number of disadvantages and is connected only in cases where it is not possible to connect the device to the ventilation system at home. Therefore, the question of how to connect a hood in the kitchen is relevant today.

The nuances of installing a kitchen hood

The second model is the most efficient and optimal option. But, as practice shows, even in this seemingly simple process, there are pitfalls.

• Firstly, the ease of installation is only apparent. Of course, you can use a simplified version and attach the hood using a corrugated pipe. But this is for those who do not think about the aesthetic side of things. Let's add here such an unpleasant moment - the corrugation makes noise during the operation of the air cleaner.
• Secondly, just taking and connecting the purifier may not be enough. Sometimes it happens that you have to make changes to the design of the box itself. Here you will need some tool skills. These changes are necessary if the draft does not meet the required standards. In principle, the device itself should provide air ventilation in the kitchen without the help of a regular fan. But it happens (ventilation is clogged) that even the fan cannot cope with the air outlet. It often happens that a do-it-yourself hood creates such problems during operation that the time when it was not there at all seems like paradise to the owners.
• Cone assembly. This is the simplest process in which several indicators and parameters will need to be taken into account. This is the height of the ceilings, the volume of the room, the intensity of air exchange. Here it is important to accurately fit the cone to the ventilation hole.
• Power connection. The best option is if the air cleaner is connected to a power outlet, that is, to do without plugging it into a power outlet.

True, the price of the entire process will increase, but the safety and efficiency of the device is more expensive.

Attention! Surface Distance hob to the air cleaner is called the lower limit. This indicator for gas stoves should be equal to 75 centimeters, and for electric stoves 65 centimeters.

In the event that the design project provides for a higher limit, then it is necessary to purchase a hood with larger area filtration.

But it makes no sense to do this, because bigger size devices are more expensive, and, secondly, the efficiency even in this case will be less. Therefore, first of all, you will have to insist that the designer take into account these parameters.

Everything, the same applies to furniture, because very often, in order to hide the vent pipe, you have to lay it through wall cabinet. Therefore, through holes are made in it.

In order not to suffer from this problem yourself, it is necessary to agree when ordering furniture that everything be done in the workshop. But at the same time, you must accurately indicate the location of the holes.

Types of hoods by installation method

There are five types of air cleaners, the installation of which determines the surface on which they will be mounted.

1. Suspended hoods. They are usually installed above the stove under the wall cabinet.
2. Embedded . Their location is inside the hanging cabinet. It’s convenient, it’s not visible, but such a connection for a kitchen hood requires both time and patience, because fastenings inside the cabinet are not provided. Here it is necessary to accurately set both the cabinet itself and the hood, not only in level, but also in height. Fastening is carried out either with self-tapping screws, or with a special bolted connection.
3. Wall mounted air cleaners. Everything is simple here, they are installed to the wall and fastened with special screws or dowels.
4. Angular. I think everything is clear here.
5. Island. They are suspended from the ceiling using all kinds of fasteners and suspensions that come with the device. Compliance fastening is made to the ceiling surface.

How to connect a recessed hood

• To do this, first of all, you will have to drill holes in the furniture for the exhaust duct (corrugated hose or flat PVC channel).
• After that, the locker is installed in place to the required height. The air cleaner is built into the cabinet, and the air duct is inserted into the hole. They are connected to each other with a special clamp, which is not included in the kit, so buy it in advance.
• The diameter of the clamp must correspond to the diameter of the connecting elements. Please note that the junction of the air duct and the adapter flange of the hood must be coated with sealant to create tight connections.

How to connect the wall option

It's practically the same here, only without the furniture. The elements are connected using a clamp and sealant. But the hood itself must be attached to the wall.

There are mounting holes on the device, therefore, first it is applied to the wall exactly at the required height, and marks are made through the holes.

Then holes are drilled according to the marks, where dowels and self-tapping screws are inserted (instructions for use are included in the kit).

The hood is hung on them. The most important thing is that you will have to strengthen the air duct to the wall. Usually one clamp is sufficient.

With and without connection to ventilation, they play in the kitchen not only the role of removing fumes and aromas in order to environmental safety. They also prevent damage to surfaces. Various fumes, products of fuel combustion and residual fat in the air gradually accumulate on walls, work surfaces, ceilings and floors. As a result of such exposure, they begin to fade, deteriorate from fat and other deposits. With the use of a hood, these processes can be minimized, which will save your finances and extend the life of your kitchen utensils.

Types of flow hoods

Models and varieties of the devices in question differ in size, design, price, and principle of operation. Kitchen hoods with connection to ventilation are used for maximum removal of air from the space above the working kitchen surface and its subsequent deactivation into ventilation through the duct.

The considered units are divided into two types:

1. passive models. The design does not provide for the installation of an electric motor. The entire working process occurs due to the draft of the ventilation duct system.
2. Active kitchen hoods with connection to ventilation function thanks to the additional connection of electric motors, which are located inside the dome. Motors provide a powerful air flow that captures soot, soot, fat droplets.

Arrangement

Any type of flow-through exhaust structure is mounted directly above the stove. The unit is connected to the ventilation wells with special air ducts. It can be a tin box or a metal corrugation. In order to avoid unwanted noise, the air supply is equipped with soundproofing material. They will not spoil the aesthetic appearance if you disguise the fixture behind false ceilings.

On the neck of the main device, the air ducts are fixed with clamps. In addition to the elements considered, hoods include the following components:

• Coarse filter. It provides protection of the device itself from the layers of grease and soot.
• Fine filter. Used to remove odor. Consists, as a rule, of coal elements.

Timely replacement and cleaning of filters will not only increase the efficiency of the hood, but also extend the life of the unit itself.

Hood without duct

Such a device works recirculating and does not require connection to the ventilation ducts. Air with the help of a fan is sucked into the filtration unit, where it is cleaned of odors, burning, excess moisture and fat. The efficiency of the device depends on its power and filtration system. Kitchen hoods without ventilation connection are equipped with two main filter units.

The first system serves to eliminate the fat content in the air, and also provides a rough cleaning. These elements are made of aluminum or acrylic. The first option is more effective because it lasts longer and is easy to clean.

The next system fights against unpleasant odors, excessive moisture, and combustion residues. The main element is It requires regular replacement (about once a quarter).

Types of kitchen hoods without connection to ventilation

All devices under consideration work on the same principle, but differ in the type of installation, namely:

1. The classic version in the form of a flat umbrella. It has no special design sophistication. Has established itself as good hood for small kitchens.
2. Suspended model. It is installed above the stove, the air flow is ejected from the front, which makes it possible to mount cabinets on it.
3. Embedded version. Allows you to hide the fixture inside the furniture. The device is compact and high power.
4. Kitchen hoods without connection to ventilation with telescopic equipment. These varieties can be moved closer to the work surface if necessary.

The units under consideration perform various functional tasks, depending on where they will be mounted (in the middle, in a corner or in a separate way).

Advantages and disadvantages of hoods without ducts

Kitchen and any other appliances have their pros and cons. An exhaust device without connecting to a ventilation system has a number of advantages:

• Elementary installation that does not require the use of additional fittings and connecting sleeves. Installing the device yourself is not difficult.
• Profitability. Given that even kitchen hoods (60) with ventilation connection use an order of magnitude more energy, this modification can rightly be called cost-effective.
• The cost of the considered design is lower than a similar system with an air duct.

The disadvantage of such units is the need for regular replacement of filter elements. This will have to be done at least once a quarter. Kitchen hoods without connecting to ventilation, the prices of which start from 5 thousand rubles, will become a reliable assistant in your kitchen.

without an air duct?

Devices operating in recirculation mode are easier to install than cooker hoods with a ventilation connection. This is due to the fact that they do not require interaction with the ventilation shaft. In these devices, the main thing is to change the filter elements regularly.

First you need to make sure that there is a power supply near the place. Before mounting the unit, mark the attachment points, drill holes, install dowels or self-tapping screws for subsequent fixation of the device. The next step will be to mount the hood on the wall, connect it to the outlet and test it.

Installation of the unit with air duct

By and large, connecting a kitchen hood to ventilation will not be any particular problem. The main thing is that all connections are hermetically and securely fixed. When doing work, you need to consider the following recommendations:

• The connection should not completely block the ventilation channel, so that when the device is turned off, natural air draft is carried out.
• The normal operation of the unit will ensure the passage of air flow without additional interference.
• The length of the duct and the number of volutes should be kept to a minimum.
• When choosing between corrugated and smooth pipe surfaces, it should be borne in mind that the first option bends well, but delays the movement of the flow.
• On bends, the duct must have smooth transitions.
• Additional air flow after ventilation or constant supply from the street will make the hood more efficient.
• It is forbidden to mount a device with an outlet to the flue gas column.

The method of how to connect the hood to the ventilation on your own is not particularly difficult, subject to certain nuances and technological subtleties.

Conclusion

Having studied the features of the device, the principle of operation, the nuances of operation and installation, we can conclude that the hood must certainly be present in the kitchen. The choice of modification depends on the size of the room, the intensity of the work process, financial capabilities and your own preferences.

Connecting the hood to ventilation, the principle of operation of which is based on the suction of the air flow with its subsequent transportation to the ventilation shafts, is more complicated and requires certain calculations. For example, excessively long air ducts will look unaesthetic and reduce the efficiency of the device itself. Subject to certain conditions installation work very simple and understandable.

The option without an air duct is much easier to install, and its price is lower. However, there are some peculiarities here. Regular replacement of filter elements will be required, otherwise the efficiency of the hood will noticeably decrease. Devices without interaction with ventilation have several types of mounting, which allows you to choose them for any size and interior of the room.

Everyone knows that good ventilation in the kitchen is an essential element of a healthy microclimate in an apartment or private house. In addition to the traditional natural ventilation duct located under the ceiling, it is now customary to install a kitchen hood over the stove and / or a kitchen exhaust fan duct opening. However, not everyone understands that an illiterate forced exhaust can not only not give the desired effect, but also significantly worsen the functioning of the natural ventilation system. Consider how to make the hood in the kitchen in an apartment or house efficient and safe.

During the cooking process, various harmful substances are released into the air. They can be divided into two groups: deadly and just very harmful.

Comfortable ventilation in the apartment as a whole and in the kitchen in particular is a guarantee of cleanliness and well-being

Dangerous "kitchen" pollution

• Carbon monoxide (carbon monoxide, CO) is a poisonous substance that, in high concentrations, first leads to poisoning, then to death. The owners of electric stoves have nothing to worry about, such appliances are not a source of CO.

Carbon monoxide is formed during the combustion of natural or biogas, cooking in traditional wood stove. Carbon monoxide is especially dangerous, and because it has no smell, a person may not feel its presence and accumulation in the room. Carbon monoxide is not absorbed by charcoal filters, the hood turned on in air filtering mode is useless in combating CO.

Carbon monoxide poisoning is very dangerous. From him in their dwellings dies more people than from the fire of fires, tsunamis, floods and earthquakes combined

• Each time you turn on a gas burner or water heater, a small amount of unburned gas enters the room. natural gas. A normally functioning natural ventilation system is designed for this level of gas emission and copes well with it.

Another thing is if there is a leak from gas equipment or pipelines. Household gas itself has no smell, but a “stinky” fragrance, ethyl mercaptan, is added to it. Feeling the "smell of gas", you must immediately open the windows and call the emergency service.

The installation of gas leakage and CO sensors will help to significantly increase the safety of people when using gas equipment. Sensors in case of danger can emit a shrill signal, or control a servo that automatically turns off the flow of gas from the main and notifies the emergency service of the problem.

The gas leak sensor is able to timely detect a dangerous concentration of natural gas, propane or butane in the air and signal this

Harmful pollution in the kitchen

• Kitchen fumes released when food is fried. It is airborne volatile particles, mainly oils and fats. After strong heating in a frying pan, harmless food substances acquire properties that are harmful to humans, up to carcinogenic. At best, dirt and soot settles on the walls, furniture and dishes, at worst - in our lungs.

• Water vapor is also generated during cooking. It is, of course, practically harmless compared to other types of pollution. But there is no benefit from evaporation, excessive moisture does not improve the microclimate in the room.

Vapors generated during cooking are not beneficial to the body

From the above, we can conclude that efficient, constantly functioning kitchen ventilation is extremely important. If for the owners of electric stoves this is a matter of hygiene and cleanliness in the room, then for those who use a gas stove (stove, wood-burning oven) for cooking indoors, this is a safety issue.

Owners of gas stoves should pay close attention to the performance of the ventilation system, periodically check the presence of draft in the ventilation duct. If in the kitchen, in addition to the stove, a geyser or a heating boiler is installed, the normal functioning of natural exhaust ventilation becomes even more greater value.

Kitchen ventilation systems: natural or forced

Many consumers are wondering: which hood in the kitchen is better, natural or forced? Answer: both are better. natural and forced exhaust Although they serve a common purpose, they do not replace one another. Mandatory for a kitchen in an apartment or a private house is a natural ventilation system. We repeat, the presence and performance of a natural ventilation system is of particular importance for a room with gas appliances.

Forced exhaust ventilation for the kitchen, a good thing, even very much. But optional. It can be argued that natural ventilation provides more safety, and forced ventilation provides comfort.

Ventilation in the kitchen with an extractor hood is an element of the general ventilation system in an apartment or house

Let us consider in more detail the possibilities of different types of ventilation, their design, advantages and disadvantages.

Natural ventilation in the kitchen

The natural ventilation system is well known to all apartment owners through the channels in the wall of the kitchen and bathroom, going to the roof of the house. Harmful gases and polluted air are removed through the ventilation duct, fresh air enters through cracks in the windows or special ventilation valves in the walls, or window frames. Warm air heated on the stove, due to its lower density, naturally tends to escape from the room up to the street, where the temperature is lower.

Natural ventilation in a private house in the kitchen, bathroom, furnace removes polluted air through vertical channels to the roof. Fresh comes from the street through windows or valves in the walls

Correctly arranged ventilation with natural draft, it removes a relatively small volume of air per unit time, but it does it constantly. The ventilation duct, located under the ceiling, is able to cope with even a small leak of natural gas, which is lighter than air and rises to the ceiling.

Carbon monoxide produced in relatively small quantities from operating burners gas stove, is also quite successfully removed by natural ventilation. Somewhat worse, natural ventilation removes kitchen odors and excess moisture when cooking at moderate intensity.

It is necessary to periodically, at least once a month, check the presence of sufficient draft in the ventilation duct. You can check this without special devices: if a sheet of paper “sticks” to the hole, there is traction.

What is good and what is bad in such a system:

Advantages of a natural ventilation system

• Ventilation with natural draft functions constantly with rare exceptions (see below, in the "cons").

• Provides general ventilation of the dwelling in combination with ventilation ducts in the bathrooms.

• Copes with the main types of hazardous contaminants emitted during cooking. Provides safety in the event of a small gas leak. Natural ventilation acceptably removes kitchen odors and excess moisture when cooking at moderate intensity.

• Natural ventilation is "free". In an apartment or a private house built in accordance with building codes, it is available by default. There is no equipment that would require repair. Electricity is not required.

• Silent operation.

Disadvantages of natural ventilation

• In hot weather and in the off-season, with a sudden warming of the outside air after prolonged cold weather, the efficiency of the natural ventilation system drops sharply. Under adverse circumstances, a reverse movement of air may occur: it will begin to flow through the channel from the street into the room. For a kitchen with a gas stove installed, this can be very dangerous, especially if there is gas water heater. In the heat and during a sudden thaw, it is recommended to ventilate the room through open windows.

• Natural ventilation removes a relatively small volume of air per unit time. If the owners decide to fry a full frying pan of cracklings, the ventilation system will not cope and the persistent kitchen “aroma” will instantly spread throughout all the rooms.

• Ventilation works normally only if there is sufficient air flow from outside. Modern plastic windows, adjusted "for the winter", when fully closed, they are almost airtight. To ensure the outflow of air into the channel, it is necessary to slightly open the windows during cooking, at least in the micro ventilation mode.

• The ventilation duct may be clogged with snow, debris. Selfish and technically illiterate neighbors from above can block the ventilation of the lower tenants by arranging a niche for a refrigerator in their kitchen by removing the ventilation shaft or part of it.

• It is necessary to regularly check the draft and, if necessary, clean the ventilation ducts.

How to make natural ventilation in the kitchen

There is ventilation for the kitchen in an apartment built in accordance with the standards, you just need to check its performance. But how to make natural ventilation in a private house? Ventilation ducts should be located in "dirty" rooms: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, furnace, utility room, bath. In order to ventilate the whole house, and not just the kitchen, air must be supplied from “clean” rooms: living room, dining room, bedrooms.

Designing ventilation, if everything is done in accordance with building and hygiene standards, involves the calculation of many system parameters. When determining the cross section of ventilation ducts, take into account the type installed equipment, the volume of premises, the design of the building, climatic conditions terrain.

The calculation is difficult for a non-specialist, those who wish to delve into the topic can study SP 60.13330.2012, 54.13330.2011, 62.13330.2012, 131.13330.2012, 7.13130.2011 and SanPiN 2.1.2.2645-10. We will give only the main recommendations, which, in our opinion, are sufficient for the installation of natural ventilation in most private houses:

• If there are four hotplates, the volume of air to be removed must be at least 90 m3/h. To do this, it is enough to bring a vertical exhaust duct with a cross section of at least 0.02 m2 to the roof. This corresponds to a circular channel with a diameter of 16 cm or a square one with a size of 14x14 cm (in half a brick). More is possible, less is not.

• The entrance to the channel should be located on the wall at a distance of 15-30 cm from the ceiling or on the ceiling itself. The last option can be implemented in a private house.

• In order for the natural draft to be sufficiently stable, the channel must be relatively high. Optimum traction is provided with a channel height of at least 5 meters. In addition, it should not be cold. In a channel located outside the building and not insulated, in the cold season, the draft will be weak or not at all. In a private house, ventilation ducts are best placed in the center of the house, closer to the ridge.

Forced exhaust ventilation

A ventilation system where polluted air is removed by a fan is called forced ventilation. Kitchen exhaust fans can be installed in various ways:

• Mount directly on the existing vertical natural exhaust ventilation duct going to the roof.

• Make a hole in the outer wall where the exhaust fan will throw polluted air directly from the room.

Modern equipment allows you to drill holes of the desired section in the outer walls quickly and without dust

• You can hang a wall-mounted kitchen hood with a built-in fan above the stove. Bring the air duct from the hood into the existing ventilation duct or into an additional hole in the wall.

• Insert a fan into the “Soviet-style” window vent, you get a simple and cheap window hood.

Advantages and disadvantages of forced ventilation

• Forced draft ventilation, when properly designed, has a high performance and is potentially capable of quickly removing significant volumes of polluted air during intensive cooking.

• A kitchen hood installed directly above the stove will remove most of the dirt before it enters the room. As a result, cleaning the kitchen will become much easier.

• Polluted air is removed only while the extractor fan in the kitchen is running.

• A forced system costs money: a kitchen fan or extractor hood with a fan, their maintenance and the electricity spent have their price.

How to properly install an exhaust fan on a natural ventilation duct

When installing a fan, consider following points:

• If the kitchen exhaust fan has a non-return valve that prevents air from entering the room from the duct into the room when the fan is not running, this valve must be removed. Otherwise, the work of the natural hood will be disrupted.

• Regular cheap household fan axial design is not designed to remove air from the vertical channel. The performance indicated in the passport (the volume of air removed per unit of time) will be realized only if the fan removes air from a horizontal channel, and even then it is not very long.

When connected to a natural exhaust, it will be difficult for an inexpensive fan to overcome the resistance of friction and the air column, its performance will noticeably drop compared to the declared one. The higher the channel, the greater the drop.

Axial fan is structurally simple and cheap

• There are special household centrifugal fans designed to operate in vertical ducts. The drop in performance depending on the channel height is not as great as that of axial ones. The actual performance when working in a vertical channel will be close to the declared one.

Centrifugal exhaust fans for the kitchen can be built-in or overhead. Disadvantages of centrifugal fans: high price (they are five times more expensive than axial fans) and relatively large dimensions.

The centrifugal exhaust fan in the kitchen has a more complex design than the axial version. An axially-rotated impeller with multiple blades is capable of creating a significant air pressure, which makes it possible to overcome resistance with little loss of performance when air is removed into a high vertical channel. The maximum performance of centrifugal fans is lower than that of axial fans with a motor of the same power. But in difficult working conditions, their capabilities are more fully realized.

So, an axial fan is cheap, but it is of little use when installed on a natural ventilation channel. Centrifugal is efficient, but expensive. A suitable alternative is to install the fan in a horizontal duct leading through outer wall. In this case, you can use a cheap axial exhaust fan without compromising its performance.

Graph of the performance of household fans with motors of similar power depending on the pressure (height of the vertical channel). Left - axial, right - centrifugal fan. As can be seen from the graphs, when overcoming a pressure of 40 Pa (approximately corresponds to a channel 25 m high), the performance of an axial fan will drop by 80%, and that of a centrifugal fan by only 20%. That is, in these specific conditions (the second floor of the "nine-story building"), the "centrifugal" is four times superior to the "axial" in terms of efficiency

When the channel is led through the wall, it is obligatory to install a non-return valve at the outlet from the outside. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to drill a hole in the wall when it comes to a city apartment. But this is not a problem in a private house.

Features of installing a kitchen hood

We will not talk about how to mount a kitchen hood, this should be described in detail in the instructions for it. We only recall that it is necessary to strictly observe the indicated height of its placement relative to the countertop. We also note that the use of the hood in recirculation mode (without air removal), coupled with a carbon filter, will purify the air only from a part of aerosol particles, mainly fats. The products of gas combustion will remain in the room. Plus it's worth the money. carbon filter gets clogged pretty quickly and needs to be replaced.

Above the gas stove, the hood should be located higher than above the electric

Let's name the main features that should be considered when choosing and connecting a kitchen hood:

• A kitchen exhaust fan, like a household fan installed on a channel, can also have an axial or centrifugal design. Expensive hoods that use centrifugal fans do a good job of removing air through a vertical channel, the loss in performance is tolerable.

In cheap hoods, axial fans are often installed; when connected to a vertical channel, they are ineffective. Full operation of the hood with an axial fan is only achieved when the air is removed through a short horizontal duct through the outer wall.

• When connecting the hood to a vertical channel of natural ventilation, it is recommended to remove the check valve on it, if any. In a horizontal duct, a valve is obligatory at the outlet to the outside. It is better to leave it on the hood.

• The cross section of the ventilation duct must not be less than the cross section of the outlet from the hood. Can switch from round pipes into rectangular ones, the main thing is not to narrow the section.

It does not matter what shape the air ducts will have to connect the hood, the main thing is not to reduce the cross section of the channel

• When connecting the hood to a vertical duct, it should not interfere with the normal operation of natural ventilation. By the way, many people do not take this requirement into account, and, unfortunately, most of the hoods in our homes are installed incorrectly. We will devote the next section to the question of how to properly connect the hood to the ventilation in the kitchen.

How to connect the pipe from the kitchen hood to the natural ventilation channel

From the outlet of the kitchen hood, we need to stretch a pipe of the appropriate section and insert it into the hole in the wall leading to the vertical channel of the natural ventilation system. In practice, this is done in different ways:

Sometimes only a pipe supplying air from the hood is connected to the vertical channel, completely closing the hole from the room. It is absolutely impossible to do this, because the work of natural ventilation will be disrupted.

An example of how in no case should you connect a kitchen hood: a room with a gas stove is deprived of normal natural ventilation. Even if the hood did not forget to remove the check valve, the natural suction of air above the stove will be weakened due to the additional resistance to air movement that has arisen. In addition, harmful gases that accumulate near the ceiling will not be removed at all.

Many sellers of building materials and finishers recommend connecting the hood to a natural ventilation system through a two-hole adapter plate. One of them is designed to connect the hood, the second opens from the channel into the room. It seems that the hood was provided and natural ventilation was preserved. Actually it is not. Firstly, during the operation of the hood, almost all of the removed air is returned back to the room. It is much easier for him to exit back through the nearby opening than to climb the channel.

Frequently used connection of the air duct from the hood (1) to the natural ventilation duct (3) through an adapter with two holes. While the hood is not working, the outflow of air from the room is carried out through the second hole (2). But when the extractor turns on, most of the air removed by it is returned to the room

Secondly, the cross section of the hole for natural exhaust is reduced, unless it is specially expanded. Connection via a two-hole adapter is widely used, but we consider it incorrect due to its very low efficiency.

Widespread, but inefficient design for connecting the hood to the channel of the natural ventilation system

In order for both natural and forced ventilation from the hood to function fully, two requirements must be met:

• While the hood is operating, the second opening must be closed so that the exhaust air is not thrown back into the room.

• The total cross section of the grate openings for natural ventilation should not be less than the cross section of the vertical channel.

This can be achieved by increasing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe natural ventilation grille and installing a check valve behind it so that it closes after the hood is turned on. The valve must be installed in such a way that the supporting air flow from the hood closes it, and when the hood is turned off, the valve opens automatically.

A non-return valve (5) was installed on the hole in the wall in the natural ventilation channel (4), which is open with a slight movement of air, but closes from a noticeable air flow. When the hood is turned on, it blocks the exit of air back into the room and it has to climb up the vertical channel to the roof

How to choose and install an air check valve when connecting the hood to the channel

For our purposes, of the many types of ventilation valves, only one is suitable - without a drive, without a spring, with a damper that is not divided into segments and its axis of rotation is shifted relative to the center of symmetry.

Of the three air valves shown, only the one on the left is suitable for our purposes.

After we have chosen and purchased the valve, we will have to tinker with installing it in the right position. In normal mode, the air valve should work like this: there is no air movement - the damper is closed, the air flow opens it. We need to get the opposite result: while the hood is not working, the valve should be fully open. When the hood is turned on, the air supply from inside the channel should close it. The relatively weak natural movement of air from the room into the duct should not affect the operation of the valve.

The principle of operation of the check valve when connecting the hood to the natural ventilation channel. The illustration shows a spring-loaded valve with a two-piece damper. Theoretically, this type of valve can be used for our purposes, but in practice it is not easy to choose it in such a way that the closing force and air pressure coincide.

In the normal position, such a valve in a horizontal channel is positioned in such a way that the damper mounting axis is placed horizontally, and the larger (and heavier) segment of the shutter “looks” down. In this case, the valve, if there is no air pressure, will be closed. We need to achieve the opposite, the valve must be open. This can be achieved in two ways:

• Install the damper strictly horizontally so that the mounting axis is turned at an angle of 5-60º to the vertical, while the damper sector with the largest area should be at the top. The angle of inclination at which the damper will be fully open when the hood is not working will have to be selected empirically. The force to pull the damper and close the valve must be sufficient, a low-power hood may not provide it.

Variant of installation of the air damper with an inclination of the axis of rotation of the damper

When the valve is installed and adjusted, the vent can be covered with a grate

• Position the axis of the valve strictly vertically, but tilt the valve itself slightly (by about 5º) towards the entrance to the natural ventilation channel. The larger segment of the shutter should "look" towards the channel. In this case, it will outweigh and the damper will open under its own weight, as crookedly hung doors open by themselves. The required effort to close the valve will be small, you can use the hood of any power.

The axis of rotation of the air valve is set strictly vertically, but it is slightly inclined towards the channel. Note how the valve was hidden in a cabinet for a built-in hood. The air in the locker will come from the hole in the top shelf

In the following video, you will learn how to connect a kitchen hood to an existing vertical duct with a non-return air valve, ensuring its maximum performance and without interfering with natural ventilation:

Centralized forced ventilation systems

It is worth mentioning the centralized ventilation systems. AT office buildings and hotel complexes are often satisfied with a single ventilation system that serves all the premises of the building. In housing, as a rule, ventilation is combined within an apartment or a private house.

Centralized forced ventilation can be exhaust, supply and exhaust and supply and exhaust with heat recovery. We are convinced that only the latter option is suitable for the domestic cold climate.

The supply and exhaust system with heat recovery is not cheap, but it gives a real return in the form of savings in heating costs and a favorable microclimate. Options without recovery at lower cost in our cold climate are ineffective.

In the supply and exhaust system, air is removed from the "dirty" rooms and supplied to the "clean" rooms through a system of ventilation ducts. The exhaust and fresh air "meet" in the heat exchanger, where the heat energy from the removed heated air is transferred to the cold air coming from the street. In this case, the air flows do not mix.

The principle of operation of the ventilation unit with a plate heat exchanger. Warm exhaust air and cold fresh air flow in opposite directions through a heat exchanger consisting of many plates made of a material with good heat transfer. Warm air, not in direct contact with cold air, gives it thermal energy

A properly designed and installed ventilation system with heat recovery ensures the transfer of up to 90% of thermal energy from warm air to cold air, which can significantly reduce heating costs and supply air at a comfortable temperature to the premises.

Supply and exhaust recuperative ventilation systems are best suited for modern energy-saving houses. In the Scandinavian countries, this type of ventilation has been mandatory for buildings under construction for more than a year, replacing natural exhaust.

The device of a centralized supply and exhaust ventilation system with heat recovery. The removed air is collected in the "dirty" rooms, fresh air heated in the heat exchanger is supplied to the "clean" ones.

It is problematic to combine centralized ventilation systems with gas stoves. For a gas stove, you still have to do natural ventilation from the room or install complex emergency automation. It is difficult to adequately combine two different ventilation systems (with an exhaust hood - three) in one room. The electric stove does not create such problems.

Local forced ventilation devices (room ventilators)

Worthy of mention are local ventilation devices with heat recovery (room ventilator). Their principle of operation is similar to central systems: the outgoing air heats the incoming air. The ventilator provides ventilation in one separate room.

Some models in shape and dimensions resemble indoor units split air conditioners. The illustration shows a Mitsubishi Electric Lossnay room ventilator. The circulation fan is located on the right side of the case, the paper heat exchanger is on the left. For its installation in the outer wall, it is necessary to drill two holes with a diameter of 8 cm.

Equipping a house or apartment with local forced ventilation with heat recovery is several times cheaper than installing a centralized system. And the level of comfort received is not much lower.

Local ventilation with heat recovery is very good for living rooms. The ventilator in the kitchen will not interfere either, but still, natural ventilation and a powerful exhaust hood, brought out horizontally into the wall, will be more useful. When choosing local ventilation devices, preference should be given to those models in which the volume of supplied air exceeds the volume of removed air.

A popular and relatively inexpensive "breathing" room ventilator, where air is removed and supplied alternately through one channel. The ceramic heat exchanger accumulates heat as long as warm air and then gives it to the cold

The procedure for changing the ventilation cycles of the "breathing" ventilator. Such a device is well suited for living rooms, but not for the kitchen.

What type of ventilation to choose for the kitchen in the house and apartment

For those who build a solid Vacation home or equips an elite apartment, erects an energy-saving building using the “passive house” technology, you should pay attention to an expensive, but comfortable and economical system of forced supply and exhaust ventilation with heat recovery. In the kitchen, you should install a powerful hood with an output to the wall, it is better (and healthier) to use an electric stove. If the house has a gas boiler, the room where it is installed must be equipped with a natural exhaust and autonomous air supply.

For those who build their own house more modestly and on a limited budget, we advise you to definitely provide vertical channels of natural ventilation in the kitchen, bathrooms, furnace, bath, utility room and hallway, if clothes are dried there.

Ventilation in a private house in the kitchen should be supplemented by a hood over the stove with a separate air duct. It is best to bring the channel for removing air from the hood not to the roof, but through the outer wall to the street. Outside, a check valve should be installed to prevent the penetration of cold air inside. A fan on the natural ventilation channel should be placed in the toilet and bathroom; in the kitchen, if there is an extractor hood, this is not particularly necessary.

The duct from the hood is best taken outside through the outer wall

For an apartment, we recommend a similar option: natural ventilation (available by default), a good hood over the stove, a fan in the bathroom. It is advisable to bring the hood through the wall, if it doesn’t work out, follow the scheme described above with a check valve. An additional kitchen fan, in our opinion, is not needed.

Finally, we remind you once again that a properly selected and installed hood and fan for the kitchen will add comfort, but will not replace the natural ventilation system. And an incorrect connection of the hood can not only not improve, but also significantly worsen the ventilation. We recommend to pay attention to ventilation issues Special attention, trust its design and installation, connection of the hood only to competent craftsmen.

In most multi-storey buildings there is a stationary system of air vents and ventilation. It has access to each apartment in the bathroom and in the kitchen. Therefore, residents can connect to it and provide their homes with clean air and additional comfort.

The main vent is located in the kitchen. This room is especially actively saturated with harmful, humid air generated during cooking, and fats splashed from frying. It is especially necessary to maintain a favorable microclimate in it, to eliminate unpleasant odors. This role is assigned to a kitchen hood connected to the general ventilation system of the house or operating autonomously.

Manufacturers produce different hoods that are mounted above stoves and hobs and have access to the ventilation system. By purchasing this device, the consumer gets the opportunity to provide installation services by professionals. However, the device can be connected to centralized ventilation with your own hands, knowing the features of these works.

How the hood works

A kitchen hood is a simple construction. It consists of the following parts:

• engine;
• fan;
• cleaning filters.

The principle of operation of the device is to create air draft. It facilitates the passage of "dirty" air through the filtration system and cleans it from impurities.

According to the functional features, these devices are of two types.

1. Circulating hoods absorb kitchen air saturated with harmful components, thanks to the draft generated by the operation of the fans. Passing through the purification system, the air masses return back to the room absolutely clean. Two filters work in the circulation type device: one traps grease and soot, the other odors. The first is made from non-woven or synthetic winterizer fabric. In some models, it is replaced by a metal version. For long-term operation of the device, the filters are periodically changed. This entails additional maintenance costs for the circulation hood and makes it less popular.
2. A flow device is considered more practical and efficient. During his work, "dirty" air from the kitchen goes outside without returning to the room. It does not use a carbon filter. It is replaced by a special grease trapping element and a layer that protects system parts from dirt and grease. Models where it is not present require special care conditions: they must be cleaned periodically. A household appliance with such an air purification system is the best option for home cooking.

Features of installation of kitchen hoods

The process of installing a kitchen hood with a do-it-yourself connection to the ventilation system depends on the type of device. Manufacturers produce different models:

• suspended;

• wall;

• corner;

• embedded;

• island.

Each of them can be circulating or flowing.

Installation of a household air purifier for professionals is not very difficult. If you want to connect it with your own hands, the owners of the apartment must take into account important points.

• by the most in a simple way connecting the hood to the ventilation outlet is to use a corrugated pipe. It is not suitable for aesthetes, as it spoils the appearance of the kitchen. During operation, the corrugation makes a lot of noise, which causes discomfort.

• Sometimes you have to make design changes. exhaust device on site, taking into account the structural features of stationary ventilation. It may be clogged or damaged due to prolonged inactivity. In this case, reconstruction skills will be needed household appliances and certain tools.
• When installing a kitchen hood yourself, you need to take measurements correctly, take into account the height of the ceilings and the dimensions of the room, the location electrical outlet to connect the air cleaner power supply. This will allow you to bring the cone to the vent as accurately as possible.
• When installing the air cleaner with your own hands, the owner must know that a large number of connections and bends will cause the system to malfunction. An angle of pipe connection over 90 degrees will create additional loads on the device. It may not work properly and fail quickly.

Installation and connection of a kitchen hood to ventilation

The most common option for an air purification device is to purchase and install a wall-mounted device.

• On the surface of the wall above hob plates measure the attachment points of the box.

It is important to take into account the generally accepted norms for the location of the device: the distance from the lower level of the exhaust device to the gas stove should be 75 cm, for an electric one - 65 cm.

• According to this marking, holes are drilled into which dowel-nails are inserted.
• Self-tapping screws are screwed into them through the mounting holes in the box itself, fixing the main device.
• Next, an air outlet pipe is installed, combining the hole in the box with the ventilation outlet in the wall. To do this, use a fixing clamp.
• All joints are filled with a hermetic composition.

During installation, you must follow the instructions that accompany the device, and take into account the location of the electrical outlet. You may need to equip an additional power supply.

To prevent the air cleaner from spoiling the interior design of the kitchen, use the built-in installation method. In this case, the device is mounted in a furniture cabinet equipped with doors in accordance with the general design of the facades.

1. First, a wooden box with holes drilled in it for fasteners and the exit of the ventilation pipe (corrugated hose or PVC channel).
2. The device itself is inserted into it.
3. A pipe is attached to it and taken out through a hole in the furniture into the ventilation outlet.
4. A special clamp is usually sold with the hood, which helps to fix the parts. If it's not there, you need to buy it. It is important to take into account the diameter of both elements.
5. After carrying out and checking the operation of the device, the doors are mounted on the cabinet. They will completely hide the air cleaner and the dirty air outlet system.

Do-it-yourself connection of a kitchen hood to ventilation requires attention and compliance with the requirements of the instructions. These details will create effective system air purification in a residential area.

If you decide to install a hood, you should consider in advance the question of its connection. First of all, we are talking about the conclusion to the ventilation and electrical networks. Some features relate directly to installation. Only with observance of all rules the device will cope with the functions assigned to it.

If we talk about design differences, hoods are divided into wall-mounted, desktop, island,. Wall models are more often performed in a rounded and rectangular shape, which allows you to cover the entire plane of the hob. Built-in ones are practically invisible to the eye, because they fit into the furniture profile.

Compact desktop hoods are installed about - today it is in demand on small kitchens. Islands are a popular option for spacious rooms. Models are hung in the ceiling area above.

Modern exhaust technology is presented in three types:

During recirculation, the air passes through the filters, returning back to the room.

At the outlet, the air masses are discharged into the vent. Combined can work in any of the indicated modes.

The principle of connection directly depends on, so I advise you to think through all the subtleties in advance and purchase the best option.

Nuances of preparation

To make the connection less hassle, you should decide on the location of the equipment. Do not be too lazy to check the quality of the walls - the surface must be strong and durable. Ideally, the hood should hang on concrete or brick, and the reliability of fasteners plays an important role.

Properly placed the air cleaner must be installed at a certain level from the hob:

• above- for straight hoods it is 75-85 cm, for inclined hoods - 55-65 cm;
• over (traditional, induction)- for inclined - 35-45 cm, for straight lines - 65-75 cm.

Carefully observe the lower limits, otherwise the equipment will fail and melt as a result of heating. It is better to adjust the upper ones to the height of the owner or hostess. The width must match.

In general, the installation of the structure can be divided into three stages:

• mounting the device to a wall or ceiling, or in a cabinet;
• connection to power supply;
• connection of the air duct and its outlet to the ventilation duct (for hoods operating on the outlet).

If the hood is recirculating

It does not require an eyeliner to the ventilation shaft, since similar ones are outside the premises. The efficiency of operation depends entirely on the quality of the filters and well-chosen performance.

Installing the system is easy. The device is mounted and connected to electricity. The fixation points on the wall or other surface are pre-marked and drilled with a drill.

If a

Here things are a little more complicated, since it is extremely important to correctly place the duct. It can be made on a semi-rigid base, aluminum, plastic. The plastic version will be the most problematic in installation.

For laying PVC ducts, adapters, vertical, horizontal elbows are required(configurations of the letter "G"), ventilation grilles, gearboxes. The latter will be needed when joining round diameter and rectangular shapes.

Most of the parts are included in the kit, but some will have to be purchased separately. Carry out the installation with the help of specialists. Then the system will last a long time and will produce a minimum of noise.

If a

Such models are almost completely hidden in the furniture profile. Holes are cut in the shelves for the air duct. This is done after purchasing the appliance, since the placement of the recesses depends on the model of the hood. The structure itself is attached with screws to the walls of the furniture.

Mounting the hood to the wall

Domes are attached to the wall,. If we talk about the fireplace type, air cleaners can consist of two parts. This is the dome and the unit itself with the engine and filters. Both parts are fixed independently of each other, but with a complete coincidence of the outputs. Island varieties are placed on the ceiling with suspension systems included in the kit. Embedded - in the furniture profile.

Before installation, I advise you to check the serviceability of the device - any instruction indicates this. Do not rush to remove all protective films and stickers before you make sure that the air cleaner is working. To do this, put it on a flat surface, connect it to the mains and check it in all operating modes.

If no faults are found, you can proceed with the installation, which is best done together. If you notice extraneous noise, lack of functions, feel free to contact the warranty workshop or the store where you purchased the device.

Most manufacturers equip the kit with a mounting template, where the mounting points are marked.. It can be leaned against the wall and all marks can be transferred.

If there is no template, proceed as follows:

• on the wall we indicate the distance between the holes for mounting. To do this, the device is applied to the surface;
• we apply markings, taking into account the height of the appliance in relation to the hob;
• drill holes. Their diameter must match the diameter of the dowels;
• insert dowel plugs into the holes;
• hang the body on the dowel nails. I advise you to check the installation of equipment horizontally;
• then a connection is made to the ventilation duct and electricity;
• after completion of work with the main system, the installation is completed by installing the duct ducts.

Known nuances

The described installation method is good if the house smooth walls and nothing interferes with the work. If a gas pipe runs near your stove, it will not allow the appliance to be placed close to the wall. In such a situation, craftsmen advise fixing wooden bars on the wall, and the air cleaner itself to them. However, I advise you to refrain from such actions. During operation, there will be problems with cleaning, in general, the design itself is unreliable.

An alternative and more rational option is to install equipment behind pipes. To do this, take a screw-stud (plumbing). The stud has a thread for screwing into the wall, a pin for removing the hood at a distance from the wall and a thread with nuts for fixing the body.

Similar items are shown in different sizes and available for purchase in every hardware store. You can take any suitable option, I will only note that all nuts are designed for an octagonal key. This is a universal solution, more durable than wood, moreover, the metal does not rust and is easy to clean.

If , act like this:

• on the shelves of the cabinet, the location of the duct is marked, a hole is cut. It is convenient to do this with a jigsaw with a fine-toothed file. You can take a file for a laminate, it practically does not leave chips;
• if desired, the section of the cut can be closed with a C-shaped plastic furniture profile. It is tough and flexible. The second option is very easy to use. Such a profile can be bent at any angle. Rigid ones are heated with a building hair dryer. The profile is fixed with glue or liquid nails. Excess can be cut off with a file with a fine tooth;
• then the process is repeated on all shelves, the cabinet is hung in place;
• the built-in hood is fixed with screws. After that, you can start working with the duct.

The nuances of connecting to the duct

They require the selection and installation of air ducts. Air at room temperature will be discharged through this channel, so the choice can be simplified and any option can be used.

In practice, three types are used:

• corrugated aluminum sleeve. Features of the material allow you to give the path almost any shape. The corrugation really bends at any angle. You just need to purchase a piece of the required length and place it in the desired shape. However, the air flow will cause resonance, noise. The second minus is the ribbed surface, fat, dust likes to settle in recesses and recesses, they create obstacles for air flow. Difficulty cleaning may occur;
• round plastic air duct (PVC). Round polymer pipes very convenient to operate. I have already noted that the structure is assembled using shaped elements - couplings, roundings, elbows, adapters, bends. The elements are connected to the pipe by extensions, all joints are treated with sealant. The system is quiet. Due to the smooth inner walls, there will be no obstacles for the movement of air masses. The duct is easy to clean. Minus, perhaps, one - a somewhat problematic assembly;
• square plastic duct. The only difference is the rectangular section. This option allows you to save usable space, it is well camouflaged behind suspended, stretch ceilings, plasterboard partitions. Here adapters are necessarily used for joining round and square sections.

The indicated materials differ in price. Polymer ducts will cost more. However, it's worth it, as you'll get more efficient airflow and less cleaning headaches. The cross section of the pipes depends on the diameter of the exhaust outlet.

But, in the case of polymers, there are several additional nuances: if ventilation system located directly above the hob, docking with the hood is carried out through adapters that are fixed both on the appliance and on the vent. Connecting knees will help get rid of corners.

However, plastic varieties are more attractive appearance and can be safely placed on top of kitchen cabinets.

Features of fastening the corrugation to the ventilation system and exhaust hood

Corrugation is more often in demand when installing air ducts in a cabinet. There are no particular difficulties with laying, and the material is quite affordable, it bends superbly, incl. in corner zones, which eliminates the need to use adapters.

Before installation, the corrugated duct must be straightened. So you somewhat smooth out the main drawback of such systems. This will significantly reduce the noise generated during operation of the device. In order for the choice of material to be correct, consider the diameter of the exit hole of the hood. The corrugation is attached to the device with a clamp of a suitable size, and to the ventilation - with a grate.

Features of additional materials:

• clamps can be plastic or metal;
• ventilation grille must be special. In the upper part of the product there should be a hole for fixing a round corrugated pipe. Below - a grate for removing air in the process of natural circulation, when the hood is not active;
• Please note that only gratings with a ledge are suitable for securely fixing the duct. These are special bumpers located around the hole. It is here that the corrugation is put on, after which the collar clings. The same principle applies when connecting the duct to the device. There is also a ledge on the hood, on which the corrugation should be put on. The joint is tightened with a clamp.

I note that during operation, fat, soot and soot accumulate in air ducts of any type. All of these need to be cleaned regularly. Frequency - about twice a year. In addition to cleaning, you can resort to a complete replacement. Be that as it may, dirt cannot be left inside. Air movement will be hindered and the risk of fire will increase significantly.

• never deliberately reduce the diameter of the duct. If necessary, use an adapter, reducing the dimensions to a minimum;
• if ventilation ducts can only be laid through the attic or other rooms, there will be a preliminary cooling of the air. Condensation will occur in some parts of the system. During operation, the traction force will decrease, mold may appear. Therefore, it is necessary to overlay the system with thermal insulation materials.

How to choose the section of the duct

If we talk about round plastic or corrugated pipes, they are presented in three sizes: 100/125/150 mm in diameter. There are much more rectangular varieties - from 55 * 110 * 750 mm to 60 * 204 * 1000 mm.

Round ducts are selected so that the diameter of the outlet of the hood matches the diameter of the pipe. It is undesirable to put an adapter on the outlet or reduce the diameter. This will reduce the effectiveness of air purification. When selecting the section of rectangular pipes, they are guided by the cross-sectional area of ​​​​the outlet pipe. Joints are realized through a suitable adapter.

How to connect the hood to the ventilation system

Installation features depend on the way the equipment is connected to the ventilation. You can arrange an exit to the common house mine or immediately outside the premises. The latter option provides a significant simplification of installation.

However, main part. But there are pitfalls here. With the accumulation of soot in the ventilation pipe, there may be a violation of air exchange in other apartments or the formation of an air plug that blocks the outflow of air. In addition, most of the grate is closed by an air duct, which leaves minimal conditions for normal air exchange in the kitchen.

To prevent the hood from becoming an obstacle to natural ventilation, you can proceed as follows:

• we take a special grate for hoods, a tee and a check valve;
• we attach a tee to the grate;
• we attach an air duct to the lower entrance of the grill;
• we put a non-return valve on the free outlet so that its slats are locked when the air flow passes from the pipe;
• the bottom line is that when the hood is working, the valve petals are bent. Air from the kitchen enters the ventilation duct through the open outlet of the tee and the grate. When the device rests, the valve plates unfold, air goes into the ventilation system.

If you are not sure that you are ready to regularly clean the entire system, stop at a direct outlet outside the room. Requires drilling a hole in outer wall with a diamond drill. Outside, a safety grille with a check valve is installed, inside - an air duct. The cracks are filled with mortar. An extractor is attached to the system. In special cases, the connection is carried out in a separate ventilation duct.

I note that the anti-return or check valve is a light metal or plastic plate. It is movably fixed on two sections of the pipe (bottom and top). The valve petals are supported by a spring. While the air cleaner is not working, the plates block the access of outside air. When the device is in operation, the air flow bends the plates forward by depressing the spring.

How to mount the system on the wall

Regardless of the variant of the liner, you should think about how to fix the duct on the wall.

There are several rules at work here:

• on plastic air ducts special fastenings are provided. They represent a kind of latches;
• the latches are first fixed to the wall with dowels;
• select the mounting step taking into account the curvature of the track. As a rule, a step of 50-60 cm is optimal;
• pipes are forcefully inserted into ready-made latches;
• if corrugation is used, fixation is carried out using clamps. It is permissible to use special plastic puffs of large size.

You can use the same method to mount the structure on the ceiling. If you need to maintain a certain distance, use perforated hangers from drywall systems. They are fixed on the ceiling, and to them - the air duct itself.

Connecting the hood to the mains

In fact, this stage can be implemented in several ways. But, only a specialist can install and connect the device to the mains. Almost all hoods are powered by 220-230 V, 50 Hz. This allows you to power them from a regular outlet.

To avoid being hit electric shock socket must be earthed. This will also help keep all warranty obligations. If the apartment has old wiring and good skills, you can throw the ground wire yourself. I note that it cannot be attached to heating or plumbing pipes.

This is done as follows:

• on the shield you should find a bus with attached wires. You can also find a pipe with a twisted or welded stranded wire;
• they connect their own stranded wire to these devices, without discarding those that already exist;
• for the grounding to work properly, the wire section must be 2.5 mm. The conductor is taken from a copper stranded, with a non-combustible sheath.

To provide protection against voltage surges, the connection is implemented through an additional circuit breaker (network filter) . To protect all equipment, I recommend spending money on a stabilizer. A good electrician will install it in a matter of hours.

If the hood without a plug

Some devices are supplied without a plug at the end.. Their cords end with wires. This is done so that the user himself can decide how best to connect the equipment. Several options are possible here. The first is the connection to the wires of the plug and the subsequent power supply from the outlet.

The second is through terminal blocks (Wago). Their number is taken according to the number of wires. Identical wires from the hood and shield are connected in one terminal block. For example, grounding with grounding (yellow-green wire), phase with phase (there may be different colour), zero with zero (blue or blue wire). The third option is connection through the terminal block.

Connection through terminal blocks is considered unsafe and is not recommended.. Plus, it's inconvenient. If you need to turn off the device, it will be more difficult to disconnect all the wires.

What should be the outlet for the hood

The main parameter for choosing an outlet for a hood is the degree of its protection. According to electrical safety standards, products marked IP62 and higher are suitable for the kitchen (protection against a strong jet of water is provided).

In addition, I advise you to pay attention to the material. Do not take cheap plastic, it melts more easily and will quickly fail.. Last but not least is the build quality - there should be no backlash, otherwise fat, dust, soot will quickly fill inside. And the last - the mandatory presence of "curtains". So nothing will get inside except for the fork.

To choose the location of the outlet, be guided by the following rules:

• the most important thing is to decide at what height and where the device will be placed. It is necessary to build on this;
• the minimum distance from furniture (tables, cabinets, etc.) to the power point is 20 cm;
• the socket should not be installed close to the hood body. It is necessary to retreat about 30 cm to the side;
• general power kitchen appliances should not be higher than 4 kW. Otherwise, you will have to draw a separate line for the hood, which will save you from overloads;
• the recommended installation height is 1.8-2.0 m from the floor.

note that in the case of a socket, it can be installed in a cabinet after the furniture installation is completed. In this case, the socket must be installed on a fireproof base (these are the rules of the PUE). With island models it is more difficult - here the power is supplied by a direct connection to the wiring, but it is better to arrange a power point under the ceiling. Direct connection is not so secure.

conclusions

In general, the successful connection of the hood is based on three pillars: correct installation to the wall, ceiling or cabinet, correct connection to the ventilation and power supply. It is not so difficult to carry out the installation, but it is better to entrust the work with the electrician and air ducts to professionals.