Raw cellar what to do. If the cellar cries

The basement under the house can be used both as a cellar for products, and as a utility room. However, the humidity in the basement may not be reduced to all plans. The appearance of moisture usually leads to dampness and mold in the room. And the appearance on the floor puddles makes the basement unsuitable for use. In addition, mold and puddles are dangerous for the designs of the house itself.

Causes of moisture appearance in the basement

Before starting an uncompromising struggle with dampness, you must first find out why it appeared. Typically, the reasons are two:

1. Penetration of moisture in the basement from the soil.
2. Condensation of it from the air.

From the soil moisture penetrates the basement easy enough. It is possible as a capillary penetration path, through microscopic pores in the material itself and direct water from the cracks in the foundation. It should be noted that microscopic pores have almost all building materials - concrete, brick and wood.

Direct moisture in the basement through cracks in the foundation - Beach of many old houses. There is a whole range of problems that will have to solve the owner of the house.

When condensation of moisture on the ceiling and walls, water drops appear. The reason consists in the difference of air and wall temperatures, gender and ceiling in the basement. Often condensation is also complicated by the capillary penetration of moisture through the walls. Therefore, here to solve the problem, it is advisable to approach comprehensively.

There is one rule that helps determine for what reason humidity appeared in the basement.

If water drips from the ceiling and assembled on the top of the walls, then the problem in the condensation of water droplets from the vapor in the air.

And if the water performs drops along the bottom of the walls and is standing on the floor, then the problem is in the penetration of groundwater. Methods for solving these problems are slightly different.

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Moisture condensation on cellar structures

How to remove moisture, if the cause of it is the difference of air temperatures and basement structures? First of all, it is necessary to understand why the air in the basement suddenly begins to warm up.

Often, you can meet the statements that the cause of condensate in the cellar is warm air, the source of which is the ground floor. However, the question arises - why warm air goes into the cellar, because only cold air layers are usually moved down?

It should be remembered that the neighborhood with warm air layers always leads to the warming up of the underlying cold layers. Thus, even through the small slots in the floor and the door, the heat will come down. Air warms up quickly. For example, to heat 1 m³ of air per 1 ° C, it is required 3000 times less energy than for heating to 1 ° C of the same amount of water.

Air heating leads to an increase in its specific humidity, since the heated air may contain more vapors of water. Water steam in this case can act like a soil, in the persons in the walls of the basement, and on top, from the house, through the slots in the burner door or holes in the overlap.

And then the solution to the problem depends on the purpose of the basement. The basement for the products is insulated from above, on the ceiling and door, and the basement for personal needs from below, on the walls and sex.

The reason is simple - in the storage cellar need a stable low temperature, so the room must be protected from heat inflow from above. As a result, the difference of air temperatures and basement structures is destroyed, which allows you to remove moisture from the cellars.

And for the utility rooms, it is better to create a comfortable temperature, so the best output will be sewn the walls with an insulator and insulate the floor. In this case, the basement temperature will increase, but the dew point is, that is, the thickness of the partition, on which condensation occurs, will be recessed inside the walls. This will help remove moisture from the basement, along the way, making it more comfortable for people, bringing its temperature to the air temperature on the basement.

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Insulation basement for storage of products

In the first case, it is necessary to start with the thermal insulation of the door. It is best to cover it with a leaf foam or polystyrene foam. The heat insulator thickness should be at least 5 cm. Fastening blocks or sheets to the door is made using a special construction glue.

On top of the thermal insulation, the door can be attached to the leatherette or cover it with waterproofing film, which are now many in building stores. In addition, the opening should be saved with a rubber seal around the perimeter to avoid heat leakage. The place where the door of the door is connected to the floor, you need to clean from pinch and garbage, and then fill the mounting foam. Then, during the day, the door does not touch so that the foam can fully harden. For the next day, the foam is poured with a knife and covered with plaster.

The heat insulation of the ceiling for concrete and wooden basement is carried out in various ways. In the case of concrete overlap you need to make the following works:

1. Promotation of all joints and seams of cement mixture (a mixture of liquid glass is possible).
2. Testing or pasting ceiling with insulation plates (foam, expanded polystyrene).
3. Coating the insulation with a special plaster.

For overlapping from a tree, the following works will have to produce:

1. The device on the beams and lags of black floor overlapping (facing the cellar).
2. Opening a draft floor from the ground floor by a vapor barrier film.
3. Laying of a bulk insulation (ceramzite, slag, sand).

To arrange a draft floor, you will have to open. However, if there is no desire to perform such a large amount of work, you can simply fix the crate on the beams on the beams from the cellar, to put the insulation sheets into it, and then close everything with a vapor barrier film. To do this, you can use nails by 2.5 cm, pre-put on each nail square from rubber, for sealing.

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Basement isolation intended for utility room

The walls of the walls in such a basement can be carried out both with the help of a leaf insulation, and with the help of sprayed. However, it is pre-deceived by the walls of cement milk. It is necessary to close the capillary pores of the material itself. Adding liquid glass to the cement will lead to better insulation. Then it is glued on top or strengthened with the insulation sheet shelves. Finally, the walls are covered with plaster. For greater decorativeness, it is possible to create a false walls, covering them with dry-fiber sheets (GWL), laying them with tiles.

Floor insulation is better combined with waterproofing. To do this, the following works are performed on the floor of the basement:

1. Laying of waterproofing (rubberoid with bitumen mastic sizing).
2. Outflow of the insulation layer at 5-10 cm (clayjit, slag, sand).
3. Laying over the insulation of a sandy-cement screed with a thickness of 4-7 cm.

These works can be carried out both over the rammed soil and over the already available concrete coating.

The garden season seems to be completed, and carelessness does not become less. And perhaps the most important thing - to save everything that was raised and collected. Previousdition We have devoted homemade billets from vegetables and fruits. We hope our recommendations to many of you will be useful. However, I want to preserve the grown and collected crop not only in the canned, but in the fresh form. This will be discussed this time. For useful recommendations, we again turned to the practice specialist - the leading scientific officer of the processing and storage department of the RUE "Institute of Farliament", Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Maria Maksimenko.

Photo Maxim Pass

First of all, it is necessary to test the storage sites of vegetables and fruits - basements, cellar, and so on. Their biggest trouble is damp. Because of it, the mold appears, potatoes, carrots, beets and other root corners, spoil the cabbage and pumpkins, apples and pears. By the way, due to dampness, even the ordering may suffer. As a result, the whole season will be reduced to no. But before starting the fight against dampness, it is necessary to decide what it is caused by, the specialist is advised.

Go down to the cellar

The cellar is a special structure. And with the familiar standards, for example, as to the house, it is impossible to approach it. If the humidity of 65% is optimal with you with you, then for most vegetables and fruits, the humidity of 70% is already critical - they begin to wither, dry, lose useful substances and, of course, are poorly stored. Each fetal has its own requirements. But if the whole garden crop is assembled in one place (which, of course, is not quite right), then the optimal level of air humidity should be within 85--90%.

Humidity is not a temperature, not to measure it. It is better to use the instruments - a psychrometer or hygrometer.

To determine the cause of dampness, you can spend a small test. If the floor is in the earthen storage, it will be quite simple. Drop the pits (about the size of the bucket) in the cellar next to the walls and regularly observe them. If it starts to mock the bottom, then, most likely, groundwater cost high. It may happen that water will appear at the bottom of not all test recesses, but only in some: it means that underground stream flows under the cellar.

When the moisture seeps on the outside of the external (facing the street) the walls of the pit - most likely, it penetrate the surface waters, rain or thawed water. Well, if the water evenly moistened the entire inner surface of the hole, then most likely it is condensate.

If the cellar regularly cost puddles (and this is the hardest case), then this is possible in two cases: the construction technology is broken or the place is simply unsuccessful. But the exit here is only one - the construction of a new storage.

Take care of ventilation

The key to high-quality storage is good ventilation. And this should be not one pipe, but two - with an influx and exhaust, with a diameter of at least 125 mm. The bottom of the supply pipe is placed at a height of 15--20 cm from the floor. Through it enters the air from the street. The second tube ends in almost the ceiling - 10 cm below its level. This is a hood. Ventilation pipes on the street must be closed by umbrellas so that they do not fall into them and precipitation. The exhaust pipe should be higher and on it to activate the thrust it is better to establish a deflector - a special aerodynamic device. Also, the pipe can be painted in black: due to the heating from the sun, the thrust will be better.

It is desirable that the supply and exhaust pipes are separated into different corners of the cellar: then the air flows will wash the entire room.

Ventilation pipes need to be inspired so that they do not frost in winter, as well as install condensate collectors and valves on them. The valves will reduce the influx of air in the winter so that the cellar does not get too cold in frost.

Good ventilation settles moisture, eliminate excessive dampness, prevents the formation of mold and will help to dry the storage faster.

By the way

To make a good, ventilation canals are straight. If a removal is required, the angle of inclination must be at least 60 degrees, and the length of the inclined area is not more than 100 cm.

With a stove and candle

Sometimes dampness appears in a dry storage. Again - check the ventilation: whether its channels have been scored. If you have cleaned, and nothing has changed, it means that the exhaust pipe works badly. So often happens when the air in the cellar is colder than on the street. Heavy and cold, he himself will not rise on the pipe itself. There is a paradoxical, at first glance, the situation: when it was cold on the street and raw, in the cellar - dry. Warmed, and the moisture drops hung on the ceiling and walls - a shallow smell appeared. To dry the cellar, you need to speed up the movement of the air.

Usually, in such cases, stoves, kerogase and walls are installed in the repository. But it's a complex and time consuming. Someone puts the primus, and someone includes a soldering lamp. However, all this is fraught with undesirable consequences: and the cellar can not be dried, and at home due to the fire to lose. Yes, and one such heating should not be engaged: it is necessary that someone still insured you. First, the temperature is high. Secondly, the smoke accumulates and even carbonate gas can be.

Better, filled with an old holey bucket or any other metal tank with smoldering coals, omit them into a vegetable store, fixing so that it hangs over the floor. Once every 20--30 minutes, the lid of the cellar needs to be opened to let the additional portion of oxygen. You can put the fan on the supply pipe. When the coals ran down, get the bucket, and close the cover tightly. Three days inside do not look: smoke and gases will not only dry the room, but at the same time they will kill the mold, they will disinfive the cellar.

Often instead of charcoal use coke or stone coal. They burn longer and give a higher temperature, but the oxygen require more.

Sometimes sufficient for drying cravings can be created by another, easier way - candle. This "Dedovsky method" is suitable if there is no electricity and the fan turn on nowhere. Increase the ventilation pipe down, almost to the floor. Put a burning candle under it in a tin can. To create an initial craving, burn it right in the tube paper, and in the future there will be a candle flame. The air in the pipe will warm up and normally arises, which will extend the raw air from the floor. In two or three days it is quite possible to dry the cellar. Instead of candles, dry alcohol tablets also use.

To get rid of the rain and melting water penetrating into the cellar, they make a breakdown and drainage around the construction. The walls of the wet will save the correct waterproofing.

Everything is much more complicated with groundwater. If the floor is earthen, then you can create an additional gravel pillow, which will violate the soil capillary. Gravel or sand is poured as long as the humidity decreases and the groundwater level will not decrease.

Good solution and clay. It is known, a natural moisture regulator. But today, in the cellars, unfortunately, global floors and clay plaster on the walls are made infrequently.

If you decide to make a clay castle, remove 6--7 cm earthlights, lay the clay layer, crush it surface and shutter the polyethylene film, folded twice. You can use the runneroid, but it is more often torn and breaks, although it seems more durable.

Top pour the clay layer from above (you can pour and concrete) and all thoroughly sink. When the clay is dry, the humidity in the cellar will decrease and the air will be markedly land.

I can not fall asleep with the film - so leave. And so that she does not rush when you walk on it, run away wooden shields and put them on the floor. Under them to scream pieces of haired lime. They and moisture will gather, and mold fungi will not allow to roast.

If water droplets accumulate on the ceiling (this is condensate), it means that the overlaps are weakly insulated. Fix it can be additionally insulated the top of the cellar. And to quickly remove the droplets, go through the ceiling by the rubber plate. Prigidaya, it will "face" drops that can be immediately assembled in the bucket.

Methods of folk and scientific

Quickly dried air to the storage of ceramic bricks. It is enough to heat them and decompose in the corners and along the walls. In a hot form, they will actively absorb moisture indoors. And when you get cool, warm up again.

Good results gives the whitening lime - it actively "collects" moisture from the air. Therefore, before draining the basement, it makes sense to whitewash everything. Only to apply on the walls is not thin, but a thick layer of lime. And it would be nice in a bucket with a thick whitewash add a bit of diluted copper mood. He is an excellent disinfector. But its concentration should not be higher than 5%. The resulting liquid is divided into two parts.

After the first painting, wait a couple of days until everything dries. Throw again. As a result, the walls and ceiling are obtained porous and uneven. But the condensate on them is rarely hanging: lime is quite well kept moisture inside.

Well absorbs moisture and calcium chloride: 1 kg of dry matter absorbs 1.5 liters of water. It is laid out, after a day, they collect, heating or calcined and used again. It is only necessary to work carefully: chlorine and calcium pairs are also toxic!

You can come even easier: pour dry sawdust in the cellar. How wet - throw out and fall asleep new. Of course, the basement is not dried by such a way, but it will reduce the humidity. Condensate droplets on the ceiling will not be exactly.

And it is possible to place empty cardboard boxes at all - they are very well absorbed moisture. After 10-75 hours, the wet and risks will remove, and put new ones instead.

Salt and ash are also good adsorbents. True, they will be fulfilled their function only until the maximum amount of moisture is absorbed.

Acid them!

Increased humidity leads to the fact that on the walls, shelves, the ceiling appears mold and fungi - different species, colors and flavors. Do you know that they do not tolerate the acid medium? Therefore, it is possible to wash them with lemon, boric or acetic acid. You can handle walls and diesel fuel, and on top to cheer lime.

The best way is to process fresh lime. Couples formed during its quenching, destroy insects, mold and mushrooms. However, such pairs are deadly and for humans, so observe all precautions! Put the rubber gloves, on the face - a dressing. Take the unlucky lime at the rate of 2--3 kg per 10 cu. M volume of the cellar, put it into the tank or barrel, fill with water, do not interfere (!) And immediately leave the cellar. Tightly close the doors and ventilation pipes. For tightness, lawing their clay. Keep the cellar closed two days, then open and ventilate carefully. If you divorced a lot of pests, after 5--6 days, repeat the processing.

Apply for disinfection and sulfur: per 1 cubic meter. M of the volume of the cellar burned to it 40--50 g. But with it it is necessary to be especially careful: only the premises, not adjacent to the residential buildings!

Very good to disinfect the storage facilities also with sulfur checkers - it is efficient and safe. The checker copes perfectly with ticks, other harmful insects, pathogens of diseases, fungi, rot on wooden structures. The smell of gas for a long time scare away and rodents.

Uninvited guests

Mice and rats are not only unwanted, but also dangerous guests in the repository. Carefully look at the walls, with a special care, close the slit cement, tin or brick, and all the ventilation channels close metal grids so that no rodents can penetrate there. Since they do not tolerate the smell of naphthalene, mix it in equal parts with wood sawdust and pour around their loopholes, moves, mink. I do not like them and the aroma of Chernelin, wild mint. The dried plants laid down near their nests will turn rodents into flight.

Do not tolerate mice and smell of magnificent rubber. Therefore, you can lay a cellar and rubber smoke. In the pallet with sand, put the old bucket with smoldering coals and put pieces of old car tires or galoshes on them.

Of course, poisons can be applied to fight rodents. But you must be careful that they do not get pet, the same cats. Most often "zoocumarine" (50 g per 1 kg of bait) - 0.5 g per 1 square meter. M. Some in the container with a negated lime are mixed with malt or sugar, and next to the dishes with water. The eaten lime causes thirst, and drunk water, the rat perishes.

It is possible to lay poisoned bait and "buster" (bread with potatoes, powered by sunflower oil, cottage cheese, meat or fish minced meat, etc.). But since rodents can transfer the bait to another place, dragging it in vegetables, then it is better to use mousetracks or rats during storage (cabins). However, before installing (as well as after each "catch"), do not forget to rinse them well with boiling water to remove extra smells.

The cause of dampness can be determined by moisture.

* If the droplets are formed on the ceiling and walls - bad ventilation.

* Drops only on the walls - no vertical waterproofing of the basement walls.

* Puddles on the floor - flooding groundwater.

Council

Eliminate the fruits from rot and bacteria, clean the air, stabilize the air humidity will help the sphagnum peat. Put it off at the rate of 10--15 kg per ton of fruit, and losses will drop at 2--3 times.

A peat is also used as a sorbent to remove unpleasant odors and antiseptics. In peat dust, potatoes, onions, turnip are perfectly saved. But it must be borne in mind that when bookmark it should be well dried. Yes, and in the peat do not like to shave the mice.

Mot on Us.

The psychrometer is easy to do. There will be two alcohol thermometers for this. Secure them next to each other on a shared stand. The ball of one thermometer wrap the raw gauze, then let it remain dry. The thermometer with a moistened ball will indicate a lower temperature. By data difference (see table) you can find out the relative humidity.

How to dry the cellar in the garage is a question that worries many garage boxing owners. Work is not complicated, but requiring certain knowledge and skills. First of all, it is important to understand the cause of the raw atmosphere, and only then proceed to its elimination.

The mold appeared in the garage, start looking for the cause, and only then proceed to drying the cellar.

Causes of air humidity

On the prevention of high moisture in the basement, it is necessary to think about the construction of the garage, but if trouble occurs, attention should be paid:

• feebility of the cellar ventilation system. Check the air craving, possibly the ventilation tube is scored or iced in winter from condensate. In this case, we can assume that you are lucky. Much more difficult to fix another cause of moisture in the garage;
• perhaps the builders did not make the waterproofing of the basement or it is damaged. In this case, it will be necessary to spend money on the purchase of the composition of penetrating waterproofing or block the inner or external protection of the basement from water.

Only by eliminating the reason, you can proceed to the drying of the cellar in the garage.

Work on the elimination of dampness in the garage

The whole process is divided into several main stages, we will analyze each of them in more detail.

Preparatory stage

First of all, it will be necessary to disassemble and endure all the wooden details from the cellar. To do this, you will need to disassemble racks or shelves, raise boxes and strands for pickles. If the wooden floor is equipped in the basement, you will need to carefully disassemble it. If the wood is suitable for subsequent use, the boards are dried on the street and treated with an antiseptic or white lime.

If the humidity is small, you can try to dry the garage by opening the hatch of the cellar and the door of boxing to the sunny, hot summer day. Perhaps you will need to repeat such an operation several times. If the dampiness is minor and ventilation works properly, such a work can solve the problem of raw wall.

To check the ventilation, it is enough to light paper or lighter and bring to the pipe. If the air goes badly, the flame will burn exactly, with a good exhaust the fire deviates and trembles, and maybe it is very ground. Clean ventilation pipes simply. Lower the rope into the pipe, in the basement, tie a rash or a rag to it and stretch the rash up. Thus, the pipe will be cleaned, mold in the basement of the garage will not become.

It can cope with a small wet stain wall, it will help in addition to natural ventilation, aged container with charcoal, sawdust or lime. These materials absorb moisture, but after processing should not be left a container with them in the cellar.

If dampness in the basement is not removed using natural ventilation, you can start radical methods. Before that, walls and floors from dirt and plaque are necessarily cleaned. To remove the fungus, in the garage all surfaces are treated with a special impregnation or concentrated manganese solution.

If the floors in the garage are earthen or out of clay, you will need to remove and remove the top layer, treat manganese and flood with a smooth layer of sand or clay.

How to dry the basement in the garage, if simple methods did not cope? Eliminate dampness in the cellar can be in several ways.

Methods forced drying cellar.

You can get rid of damp in the cellar with several methods, each of them has its advantages and disadvantages.

It's important to know! All the work on the dyeing of air in the basement should be carried out in the summer, during hot and dry weather.

How to dry the basement in the garage with the help of a candle?

This is the oldest, proven way to combat wet air. To do this, it is enough to install a large paraffin candle in a jar or other non-combustible container and set the ventilation pipe at a short distance from the floor. This allows you to increase the circulation of air masses and the replacement of wet flush air in the cellar.

When conducting processing, the basement cover must be opened. With the help of a candle, crude air is replaced by dry atmospheric and a gradual drying of the wall occurs. But the candle can be shuffled with wind gusts, so they recommend replacing it on dry alcohol and burner.

To continue processing, you need to completely dry the wall. Dry alcohol, during combustion, it highlights chemical elements that work as antiseptics and help get rid of the fungus in the basement. But it should be stored with a sufficient amount of substance, for processing a small basement, 15-20 tablets may be required.

If the candles and dry alcohol did not help, you did not get rid of moisture, try the following method.

Brazier treatment

How to get rid of mold in the basement, it may be helpful will help a homemade brazier from an old bucket or a small barrel. Having done a 2-3 holes in the upper and lower bucket, set it to the ground. The brazier should stand at a distance from the floor of 60-70 mm. For a stand, you can use several bricks. Install the bucket is needed under the hatch. Reliably hooking a hook with a cable to the arms, we take it into the garage.

By downloading the first bookmark of coal and wood, we light the mixture. It is impossible in the basement during processing, a large amount of carbon monoxide is distinguished. Therefore, the subsequent fuel bookmarks are carried out on top, then the roaster goes down to the basement.

Due to the gap between the bucket and the floor, natural traction is formed, it remains to follow the burning and on time to put firewood. Processing lasts for 12-15 hours. At the same time, the hot smoke immediately begins to push out moisture out of the room, it will gradually dry the walls and remove the harmful microflora and fungus. Firewood is better to use from solid wood, acacia, birch will keep burning long, remove unpleasant smell.

But there are situations where more efficient methods are required. How to dry the cellar in the garage after flooding, in this case it will help the processing of the room with the help of various electrical heating devices.

How to get rid of dampness with electricity?

Such processing is carried out for rapid deliverance during flooding or significant level of air humidity. It prevents the defeat of the basement of fungal disputes. In this case, you can use oil radiators, heat guns, converter heaters or infrared. The work is carried out according to a similar scheme, but a person can be descended to the cellar, to transfer heaters.

The most important thing is to quickly remove the humidity so that the treated surfaces become dry, like air indoors. Be sure after the first heating of the cellar, open the basement door, to quickly remove the shaft air. The best option is a powerful heat gun. Such a device not only dries air, but also provides its circulation during processing.

But it should be understood that the use of powerful electrical heaters will require additional expenses for the payment of energy accounts.

How to remove dampness faster when processing open fire, it is enough to connect several fans that will remove wet heated air, ensure forced cellar ventilation. But if we process a small room, with the aim of prevention before laying up vegetables for the winter, it will be enough to use a dry fuel with an additional fictionalization of the basement with a sulfuric checker.

This processing is not only dried by the cellar, in this case we get rid of harmful microorganisms and fungi.
How to get rid of fungus and raw air in the basement of the garage - in conclusion we give some tips.
To maintain dry microclimate in the basement, you can install small fans in ventilation pipes. In this case, the air will constantly change, and dampness will not be able to develop mushrooms.

What to do if the fungus has already appeared on the wall. Remove it will help a simple, simple operation. It is necessary to clean the wall from dirt and mushrooms, dry the surface and treat them with industrial impregnation or a solution of manganese.

The simple sulfuric checker helps to combat fungi and mold. Such processing is carried out before laying vegetables. Repeat enclosure of sulfur or carry out air heating is not recommended. In addition to waterproofing, the basement must have a sufficient layer of thermal insulation, to prevent the passage of cold, wet air to the room.

Such simple and not costly methods will allow maintaining a permanent microclimate in the basement of the garage and provide optimal conditions for storing vegetables.

The direct appointment of the cellar is the extension of the cause of the crop, regardless of the time of year and weather conditions outside the window. The most important factor responsible for creating an optimal microclimate is humidity in the cellar. To obtain good storage conditions for products, its indicators must be stable and not to exit permissible frames.

Increased humidity in the cellar causes a decrease in the shelf life of products. Bringing this parameter to regulatory values \u200b\u200bis an important task, the solution of which is necessary for the preservation of the harvest.

Impact on microclimate and regulatory values

The construction of the cellar is a rather complicated task requiring an integrated approach. When it is built, it is necessary to take into account the huge number of factors and focus on building rates, otherwise it is hardly possible to obtain a high-quality structure. The main criteria that affect the safety of food, serve humidity and temperature. It is these two parameters that are the main and must be maintained at a certain level.

According to the regulatory documentation, the optimal conditions in the cellar are considered:

• humidity in the range of 85-90%;
• temperature in the area of \u200b\u200b2-5 degrees.

This ratio of the main indicators is most favorable to extend the shelf life of the harvest. At the same time, it should be observed year-round, regardless of external factors. Balance disorder instantly affects the microclimate of the room.

Increased humidity in the cellar leads to a displacement of the dew point inside the room. At the same time, in normal conditions, it should be beyond. The consequence of such a process is the formation of condensate, which covers all surfaces and contributes to the development of dampness. Mold, the ignition of the air, rotting products and corrosion of racks - just a small part of the problems that excess moisture can lead.

The temperature rise makes the air more dry, which also does not bring anything good. A sharp decrease in the level of moisture and the growth of thermal indicators has a negative effect on products, drying them 2 times faster. Therefore, the temperature and humidity in the cellar must be permanent, and also be within the framework provided for by the technical documentation.

The reasons

Humidity control and its maintenance under certain limits is a rather simple task. Violating the shaky balance between the main indicators is very easy. The slightened shortcomings in the design or neglect of construction technology affect the characteristics of the room. The greatest impact on the microclimate in the cellar provides:

• soil type;
• location;
• waterproofing quality;
• the quality of thermal insulation;
• the state of the ventilation system.

High humidity in the cellar may be a consequence of its construction in the unsuitable soil. Each type of soil has its own thermal conductivity coefficient. The higher its indicators, the less the soil can withstand thermal exposure. Moreover, such approval is true not only in relation to the increase in temperature, but also to its decrease. Soil with high conductivity quickly fluctuates. Cold air reaches a cellar, contributing to a sharp decrease in air temperature in it. Suglink and clay are a bad basis for the construction of an object, and the sandstone and sandstone are considered good soil to build it.

The imbalance of the main indicators may occur with the wrong location of the cellar. If the construction is not deep underground or near the water sources. In this case, it will quickly warm up in summer, and freeze in winter. To neutralize such phenomena, it must be deepen at least 0.5-1.0 meters. Another option may be a cellar structure directly under the residential house. In this case, heat from its heated part will penetrate through the ceiling, contributing to the mixture of the dew point.

Increased air humidity in the cellar can be the result of poor waterproofing. During the season of rains, the water impresses the ground and in the absence of a protective layer or its disorders can leak through the brickwork inside the room. At the same time, the amount of moisture that enters the cellar depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe non-protected area and the intensity of the walls. It is possible to solve such a problem only by carrying out work on applying a waterproofing layer to the outer surface of the object.

The quality of thermal insulation also plays an important role to create optimal conditions in the cellar. If it is located in clay soils, it is not deep enough underground or equipped directly under the house, then the balance of the balance between the temperature and humidity will not be avoided. It is possible to correct the situation only by creating an additional thermal insulation layer, which is mounted on the ceiling or wall.

Status of the ventilation system

Humidity in the cellar should always be the same. The most significant role in the process of removing excess heated air plays the state of the ventilation system. A well-working extract is able to level most of the negative factors that lead to a disruption of the microclimate in it. The operation of any ventilation system is built on the natural circulation of air masses, which, when heated, rises up, and after its cooling are lowered to the floor. Especially clearly, such a property can be traced in a closed space, which is the cellar.

Important! According to the regulatory documentation, at least 150-180 mq. Cube should be carried out through the ventilation system. Fresh air. A similar indicator makes it possible not only to remove moisture in the cellar, but also partially normalize the temperature regime.

In the process of heating, the air absorbs the particles of the liquid and rises to the ceiling together with them. In this case, the cold air flow falls on the bottom of the room. Thus, the creation of a ventilation system of the supply and exhaust type is carried out on the basis of the difference in the air temperature within the cellar and directly beyond.

Reduce humidity in the cellar with a small area of \u200b\u200bup to 10 m.KV. It is possible by using natural ventilation. The principle of its functioning is to organize good air circulation based on the physical properties of air. The output channel is installed at the ceiling itself, ensuring the removal of heated wet air masses. The introductory hole is mounted at the floor itself for 10-15 cm before its surface. And both air ducts are located at different parts of the room. This installation scheme allows you to organize an excellent air exchange inside the room.

Get rid of high humidity in the cellar of more than 10 m.KV. You can only with the use of forced ventilation systems. The principle of their work is based on the use of special exhaust fans that increase the natural circulation of air.

To bring the temperature and humidity indicators to normal, the parameters of the cellar must comply with all the necessary standards. The presence of leaks, poor thermal insulation and improper territorial location has a negative effect on the microclimate in the room. Therefore, such problems need to be eliminated at the design stage and conduct construction work in accordance with the standards specified in SNiP.

The humidity and temperature of the air are determining parameters, from the size of which depend on the storage conditions. At the same time, it is not easy to achieve an optimal relationship between these indicators. The climatic conditions within the cellar affects a huge number of factors, among which ventilation functionality occupies a special place.

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The basement or cellar tends to have any owner of the country house, cottages or even a garage. Without an underground room, it is difficult to preserve vegetables, fruits and other gifts of the earth. But often there is an increased humidity, the walls and the ceiling are covered with condensate, which delivers many troubles.

The easiest way to determine the norm of humidity for the basement is to look into the instructions for home refrigerator. The limit indicators of humidity for it and the basement approximately coincide: it is usually 85-95%.Whether your basement corresponds to these standards, you can learn using a hygrometer.

The hygrometer shows the level of humidity in the room

You can do without this instrument:

Is the humidity in the basement, it is possible to determine with a glass of cold water

Increasing humidity in the basement or cellar can be seen on different signs - droplets of condensate on the walls and ceiling, wet floor and lower walls, heavy air indoor. It threatens serious troubles:

Why dampness and condensate appear in the basement

Before proceeding to eliminate the problem, you need to find out the reason for its occurrence.

A lot of trouble gives the appearance on the walls and ceiling of condensate. The cause of its formation is the so-called dew point. In contact with cold surfaces, water steam is condensed into drops and settles in the form of dew.In winter, the outdoor temperature is significantly lower internal, due to which the walls are frozen. In the summer, the other way around, and the dew is formed on cold walls and the ceiling when warm air penetration from the outside. In the spring and autumn, condensate appears much less frequently. The reason can also be a sharp change of temperature and insufficient thermal insulation of walls and ceiling.

Condensate indicates high humidity and bad ventilation

Ways to get rid of high humidity

First you need to find the source of the problem and eliminate it:

How to organize enough ventilation indoors

This system is installed in the basement or cellar during construction.

Ventilation pipes are placed in opposite corners of the room

When natural ventilation does not cope, the forced will help. To do this, fans operating on the inflow and exhaust air are installed in the pipes.

To check the system efficiency, bring a paper sheet to the exhaust pipe: with a good hood, it will stick to the pipe. If this does not happen, the system does not work.

Waterproofing and vaporizolation

Drops on the ceiling and walls, wet slippery floor can indicate poor waterproofing. Its strengthening is better to spend in the warm season.

Internal and outer waterproofing basement

The work is carried out outside the room:

It is not always possible to make outdoor waterproofing, in this case it is carried out from the inside. This can be done even in a wet surface, since modern impregnations allow you to crystallize moisture inside the stove.

Drainage system around the cellar

This is a separate structure, and to effectively protect against moisture on its perimeter, it is necessary to make a drainage system. In an earthen cellar for this purpose, additional walls made of wood or bricks are built at a distance of 20 cm from the main. The clearance is subsequently filled with rubble or clay. The walls are enough to lay out in Polkirpich. Every five rows, the masonry is plastered from the ground wall and dried.

Inside the earthy cellast, walls of bricks

Earthart floor will not protect from groundwater. As a temporary measure, it can be made by a thick polyethylene film. For more efficient protection, it is necessary to arrange a basis:

Tip! When pouring the solution, we climb the reinforcing grid in the screed. It will save the future base from cracking.

Instead of a clay-cement screed, arbolite or fibrolite blocks can be used. From above, fill with a thin layer of cement mortar, it will fill the joints between the stoves.

Arbolite blocks are made of wood sawdust and cement

Waterproofing in the garage

The waterproofing of the basement in the garage is carried out in the same way as in the house. An important role is played by the device of the drainage system. It can be done outside or from the inside. The second option is suitable for an apartment building and corporate garage:

Heat insulation

The method is well coped with the condensation problem due to the decrease in the temperature difference indoors and the ceiling with walls. For this surface, inside the insulation sheet materials are covered with insulating sheet materials. The cheapest and popular of them are foam.

Tip! Pay special attention to the entrance hatch: it should be almost sealed. Otherwise, steam will be penetrated from the upper rooms in the basement, and the gaps in the cellar hatch will be available inside the cold air.

How to dry a basement or cellar

The choice of method depends on the size of the room, the time of year, the presence of ventilation and how high the humidity is high. It is better to take care of the dryer in advance, even before harvesting and bookmarks it for storage.

Preparation for work:

Video: Drying of the sample in the garage homemade forced ventilation

How to prevent the emergence of high humidity

This should be thought about it at the design and construction stage. After all, the problem is easier to prevent than spending strength and time to fight with the consequences.

Dry cellar or basement - the main condition for savoring. Therefore, it is so important to prevent in the repository of the appearance of dampness and be able to get rid of it if the problem still appeared. By performing work on thermal insulation, waterproofing and ventilation device, you solve this problem.