Drainage pit for the house from which is better. Arrangement of the sewerage system of a country house: do-it-yourself cesspool

Evgeny Sedov

When hands grow from the right place, life is more fun :)

Most suburban areas, especially summer cottages, do not have access to a centralized sewer system, and land owners decide on sanitary and environmental problem Wastewater on one's own. Therefore, it will depend only on the awareness of the owners how a do-it-yourself drain pit in a private house will cope with the removal of waste and sewage. Let us consider in more detail all the options for solving the problem in small settlements where the issue of wastewater is acute.

What is a drain hole

Cesspools in a private house with their own hands are primitive, but at the same time one of the most effective ways disposal of sewage and sewage in residential or industrial out-of-town buildings. The structure is a system of structures and fixtures:

• foundation pit;
• a reservoir, a container for storing or receiving wastewater;
• removal system from sewer pipes;
• filtration system (if necessary);
• special fasteners;
• seals and sealants.

A do-it-yourself drain pit in a private house is saving money and ample opportunities to choose the type of structure, but before proceeding to complex work, it is necessary to study all the advantages and disadvantages of each design and choose optimal scheme in your particular case. It is important to remember that an improperly designed sewage disposal system can lead not only to toxic leaks, property damage and aesthetic discomfort, but also endanger the health and life of residents.

How to make a drain hole

A do-it-yourself sewer pit in a private house is convenient because most of its types do not imply the involvement of sewage trucks. Such designs of drainage structures are considered the most the best option, they do not require constant and regular maintenance. Attract complex technique will be needed only once every few years, which will save the cost of maintaining the cesspool. For residents of areas remote from the city, such options for drainage structures from different types material:

• from automobile rubber tires;
• wood: board, plywood, fiberboard, chipboard;
• plastics, metal-plastic, plastic, MDF;
• concrete rings and plates;
• bricks.

Varieties of sewage pits in a private house according to the period of operation:

• non-hermetic type of summer use;
• non-hermetic type for all-weather use.

Almost all the proposed types of materials are interchangeable and for the most part have a low cost (especially since it is not necessary to use new materials, used ones are also perfect). Therefore, each homeowner will be able to choose the option that suits him and make drain hole in a private house with their own hands. The main thing is to correctly take into account the location of the structure and the number of drains per person per day. The daily norm without further filtration is approximately 30-50 liters per person.

Location

In accordance with the State Sanitary Standards, a sewer pit in a private house should be located at a remote distance from the walls of residential buildings and structures, children's playgrounds. The location of the cesspool personal plot and the distance from it to a residential building, a cottage of neighbors is determined by the decision of the owner of the site in compliance with the rules of good neighborliness.

Controversial issues regarding the arrangement of an autonomous sewer system on a personal plot are considered in the procedure for resolving land disputes in accordance with the law. The main condition on the site in terms of autonomous (non-centralized) water supply is the distance from individual wells and water supply sources. The distance on the territory of the site from one object to another should be at least 20 m, and ideally - 50 m.

Otherwise, sewage will pollute the drinking water on the site and become a source of disease. In this case, it is important to take into account the direction of the slope of the site: the location of the drain tank should be below the level of the drain point. It is desirable that the slope increase by three centimeters each running meter drain pipe, then sewage will drain by gravity.

Device

Naturally, in addition to solving the security problem, most owners will responsibly approach the issue of ensuring that all the structures necessary for the construction of the facility are in harmony with all the buildings on your site. There are many factors to consider when choosing a drain site:

• terrain;
• the nature of the soil;
• depth of groundwater;
• availability of drinking water.

If the drain pit for a private house will be used by residents only in the summer, then its depth can be made from 1 to 1.5 meters in size (depending on the number of drains). When the building is used and winter period time or year-round, it must be borne in mind that the depth should be calculated taking into account freezing, soaking of the soil. The drain should be located at a depth of not less than 0.5 m. In such a system, there must be ventilation (a vertical pipe from a pit with a protrusion outward by 20-30 cm) and drainage.

If autonomous local sewerage settles down on suburban area, then it is very convenient to choose a pit for a cesspool with a filtering bottom - a cleaning well. But in this case, it must be borne in mind that the total amount of wastewater and sewage should not exceed 1 cubic meter per day. Such a device is well suited when the soil is of a sandy or sandy loam type and the groundwater level is at a depth lower than 2.5 meters.

Construction consists of the following stages:

• When digging upper layers soil the earth is scattered over the site. One and a half cubic meters of soil is left for the installation of a heat-insulating layer, which will later be located above the ceiling.
• At the same time, walls are being built in the pit and outlet pipes are being laid. The walls of the structure are made of bricks or concrete rings, and the pipes are angled to prevent stagnation of harmful fluid.
• At a certain depth (depending on the volume of the tank), the end of the outlet pipe is inserted into the structure.
• After the installation of pipes, rings, ceilings, covers, it is necessary to install hatches.
• When building brickwork at the level of the walls, a dig is made 30 cm wide, then the concrete slab will lie on top of the walls of the well exactly on the ground. The slab must be filled up to the surface level, and the hatch remains open.

When installing a sealed cesspool, the following factors must be borne in mind:

• Among the structures there are both sealed concrete wells and factory-made plastic containers.
• The tightness of wells is worse than that of plastic tanks. A good option is the euro-cube, it is light and inexpensive. It holds 1000 liters and has a plastic or wooden pallet.
• The ventilation pipe must be at least 10 centimeters in diameter, located 70 centimeters above the surface.
• For laying pipes, it is very important to choose a place so that bushes, trees, roots do not come across and do not impede access with the necessary repairs.

The principle of using this type of construction is that sewage does not enter the ground. They are collected in a special container through specially laid pipes, and it is pumped out of it when attracted. special equipment. How often you have to call a sewage truck and pump out sewage will depend on the number of residents, the time of year of operation.

Dimensions

The dimensions of the drain pit in a private house should be calculated so that it can accommodate two tank volumes in which water is heated for a bath, shower, and other household needs. This ratio of the size of the barrel and the pit will allow the owners to use it a long period for reliable daily use in summer. People who decide to build a cesspool on their own need to correctly calculate the capacity of this structure in advance. The calculation is made according to the formula V=Ndn*Xperson*Vday/person, in which:

• V-calculated cesspool volume, m3;
• Ndn - the number of days of work for accumulation (until the need to pump out);
• Xperson - the number of permanent residents;
• Vday/person- daily intake water per person living in liters.

An approximate calculation for a house, a summer house, where a family of five lives. Let's say the cesspool is cleaned once a month, and the water consumption is 150 l / person. With such indicators, the volume of the future drain pit is calculated: V \u003d 30 * 5 * 150 \u003d 22.5 m2. The value of daily water consumption depends largely on the needs and habits of the household. Observations show that urban residents use more water than residents. countryside.

Drain pit with your own hands

For the construction of leaky devices for summer use, boards, metal or plastic barrels, old car tires, plywood. Drainage pits, designed for year-round operation, are constructed from more durable and durable materials: concrete rings, bricks, metal sheets. A do-it-yourself drain pit in a private house is a completely affordable and feasible process, the main thing in which to adhere to the basic requirement is reliable sealing and waterproofing (hydraulic lock) of the sewage drain tank.

Concrete

Drainage pits made of concrete rings are considered one of the most reliable and durable structures that are designed for year-round use. They perfectly withstand low temperatures in winter and the viscosity of the soil in the rainy season. In comparison with other options, concrete structures are somewhat more expensive, but after construction, subject to its competent implementation, such structures autonomous sewerage do not require regular maintenance, repair or modifications.

The order and stages of construction of the structure:

• Dig a pit right size, level the bottom to install the bottom ring.
• The rings are installed sequentially, hermetically fastening them together with cement mortar.
• The number of rings depends on the required volume of the pit.
• The upper part of the ring should protrude 20-30 cm above the ground level.

Advantages:

• reliable material;
• construction speed;
• a large selection of ring sizes;
• convenience in the purchase of related materials.

Flaws:

• attraction of special equipment and trained employees for its management;
• it is desirable to have a photo of a similar building or create drawings.

from brick

One of the most expensive, but reliable and effective options for a do-it-yourself drain pit is made of brick. If you want to save money, you can use substandard or used bricks. The procedure for erecting a structure, as in the case of a pit made of concrete rings, is that the brick is laid on the cement mortar in a circle along the walls of the pit. Pros of using bricks:

• strong and durable material;
• minimal builder skills required;
• without involving special construction equipment.

• A rectangular or square pit will not withstand heavy loads, with high humidity may collapse.
• In order to build a round pit, you need the help of a specialist.
• When building a sealed-type pit with your own hands, you will need a lot of cement and sand.

Made of plastic

The use of plastic is the most popular and inexpensive option production of a drain structure. Her main feature- this is tightness, preventing runoff from entering groundwater. The installation procedure is simple. You need to choose a place and dig a hole with a volume of 40% more plastic container. Make a sand cushion 20-30 cm high. Pour a 20 cm wide base out of concrete and attach a barrel (accumulator) to it so that it does not float when high level ground water.

The container can be secured with chains, ropes or covered with sand, gravel, crushed stone on the sides. Cut a corresponding hole in the upper part of the container and connect the pipes, seal the joint well, for example with silicone. Insulate with a layer of thermal insulation to prevent freezing of drains when sub-zero temperature. From above, the pit can be covered with plywood, boards, sheet metal, but be sure to install a hatch with a diameter of at least 70 cm for further maintenance. Design advantages:

• light weight;
• many varieties;
• ease of arrangement;
• long operating time.

• plastic can be deformed from loads;
• the impact of temperature fluctuations.

To avoid such troubles when building a cesspool with your own hands, it is important to provide thermal insulation. The container is better to choose with metal frame, and overlay the barrel with bricks. Subject to all the rules of construction, such a pit with your own hands will last more than 30-40 years, but subject to regular preventive work: additional insulation for the winter, regular sewage pumping.

from wood

A do-it-yourself drain pit made of wood is a temporary solution to the issue of wastewater. After choosing a place and digging a recess of the desired size, four shields are knocked together from boards according to the dimensions of the walls of the pit. The shields are installed in a prepared pit, at the joints they are attached to each other with a bar.

Spacers are installed between the shields to strengthen the structure, the fastening of the two sides is ensured by resting on adjacent boards. From above, the structure is closed with plywood, metal, a shield of boards and covered with a water-repellent material (polyethylene), covered with soil as thick as a spade bayonet.

Positive aspects of the bottom of the sink made of wood:

• availability and convenience of material processing;
• to assemble the structure, no special efforts and skills are required;
• The box is easy to assemble and dismantle.

Flaws:

• short service life;
• small tank volume.

From tires

This is the easiest way to build a hole with your own hands. In the selected place, a recess is dug a little larger than the diameter of the tires. Prepared tires are installed one on top of the other, but before that, the inner sidewalls are cut off on both sides of the tire. This is done so that impurities do not accumulate on the sides of the tire. This is easy to do: a hole of a suitable diameter is made on the side for the possible passage of a hacksaw and sawed off unnecessary parts. It will take 40-50 minutes to prepare one tire.

To prepare the drain riser, a hole of about 15-20 cm is made inside one of the tires. A thick sheet of durable non-corrosive material (galvanized metal sheet) is installed on top of the septic tank and covered with earth. Over time, a layer of turf forms on the roof of the structure, and it will not stand out on the site. This design will last autonomously for at least 10 years with an approximate daily drain volume of 50-100 liters. 4-5 tires from a minibus or truck are enough to equip a drain for a small bath.

Benefits of a wheel pit:

• rubber is not subject to corrosion;
• ease of transportation and low cost of material;
• ease of processing: the side parts are cut with a regular hacksaw.

Flaws:

• tires have a small diameter;
• limited use - only for small drain pits;
• large tires are difficult to process, prepare.

Video

You have a private house Or a cottage outside the city? Do you have to take out a full bucket of water from under the sink every time? Stop suffering! Do-it-yourself water drain in the house! It is quite real and quite simple. To do this, you will need to be patient and the following materials: pencil, tape measure, hacksaw, reinforced concrete rings, sewer pipe, rubber gaskets, concrete ceilings, cement, sand, gravel, hex, shovel and gloves.

Preparatory work

And so let's get started. First, you need to determine where the wastewater will be collected. Usually this is the place where the natural slope of the territory goes. And yet, if you have on the site drinking water in a well or in a well, it is necessary to exclude the ingress of sewage there. Secondly, you need to draw a draft sewerage scheme (your private house must have a draft, use it), measure and make a list necessary materials and accessories for work. Measure with maximum accuracy, taking into account every detail, so that you do not have to run to the store many times.

Are the materials ready? We start installation work.

Internal sewerage

First, we lay the pipes inside the room. Better take pvc material because it's easier to work with. It is compatible with other building materials, it is lightweight, bends well, holds cement and joins quickly.

Laying sewer pipes

Saw it with a hacksaw for metal at an angle of 90 degrees. We connect the short parts of the structure at each joint, inserting rubber gaskets that will ensure tightness. Now we connect all the elements. We take toilet pipes. They should be large in diameter (one hundred millimeters). This is necessary in order not to burden the drain. The remaining pipes should have a diameter of approximately 50-75 mm, water will flow through them quickly enough.

We install pipes with a slope of 2-5 mm per meter of pipe to simplify the drainage of water. We take the pipe out of the house at a depth of about one to two meters, depending on how deep the earth freezes, and then, with a slope of 5 mm per linear meter, we introduce it into sewer well. Now check if the water flows well through them.

External sewerage

Here we come to the cesspool. It can be of several types and classifications, with or without a bottom, respectively ecological or polluting the environment.

You can use a pit without a bottom only if the volume of flow is small (within 1 cubic meter per day) and if points with drinking water located no closer than 50 meters from it.

But if you want to protect yourself from fines and criminal liability, then it is better to make an airtight cesspool. It is good because it eliminates problems, because they are pumped out with the help of professionals and special equipment. But this "pleasure" costs money.

Overflow sewerage in a private house

You can also build a sewer to a private house with your own hands by processing wastewater, that is, a septic tank. In order to make a three-chamber septic tank, you must follow a few rules:

A place for a septic tank is chosen lower than drinking water, at a distance of at least 50 m from the well.

• The fence must be at least two meters away.
• There must be a place for the entry of sewage equipment.
• Dig a hole with a volume greater than 3 norms of runoff per day.
• Fill the bottom with a concrete pad 15-20 cm so that water does not seep into the ground.
• For walls, you can use reinforced concrete rings, ready-made plastic structures, or lay them yourself out of bricks.
• At the end of the laying of the walls, carefully seal all the seams.
• Twice finish the inside of the walls of the well with bitumen.
• By the same principle, make a second chamber, connecting them together.
• The third chamber will be the same, only without the bottom. About 50 cm of sand and gravel are sprinkled at the bottom of the well to filter the water.

Ready. Now draining the water is not a problem for you. Your private home can have any of the three forms of sewerage offered by us. You only need to choose the most suitable option for your home and do everything with your own hands.

In most cases, sewerage in the country is not provided. Instead, a cesspool is used. There are quite a few options for its construction, and each has both its advantages and disadvantages. Next, consider in detail standard designs cesspools and analyze how to install them.

What is a drain pit and why is it needed

A drain pit, or as it is also called a cesspool, is necessary for private houses that do not have a direct sewer supply. The right drain pit recycles waste, allowing some substances after processing to soak into the ground without harm to it.

The popularity of this type of treatment plant is due to the ease of installation and the speed of work. One person without assistants is able to complete all the work within 3-5 days, depending on the type of construction.

On the other hand, there are certain difficulties associated with the further operation of the cesspool. First of all, this concerns the issue of pumping sewage. Equally important is the correctly selected volume of the pit.

Drainage pit device

The simplest structures that are most often found in rural houses and simple suburban areas - this is digging into the ground an old barrel or tank that has served its time. Such a design will allow for the collection and partial filtration of wastewater, provided that their daily amount does not exceed 1 m³. Such schemes have not received approval from the sanitary services, as they can harm the environment.

The simplest drain pit in a private house is a simple design. Through the sewer pipe, although direct flow is often encountered, sewage enters a container, the bottom of which is covered with silt. The drain pit should be equipped with a gas outlet pipe through which methane generated during waste processing will go outside.

Such a system is completely unsuitable for those houses in which permanent residence is planned. Taking into account the fact that the average daily water consumption for a family of four people is up to 1 cubic meter, this leads to the need for frequent cleaning of the cesspool, and, accordingly, to financial costs. Previously, a ubiquitous method of removing sewage into the soil with their subsequent natural filtration was widespread, but in the current realities, this method, for obvious reasons, is prohibited by the sanitary service.

However, such a design is quite common, and will not have any special alternatives for suburban areas with infrequent attendance. It is easy to equip it on your own, but you need to consider the following points:

• The walls of the pit will require strengthening, as the water will gradually collapse the structure. To prevent this, they install a tank, or they build walls of brickwork or concrete rings.
• The volume of the cesspool should be at least three cubic meters. The correct calculation is made taking into account the fact that each person will need at least one cubic meter of space.
• Installed ventilation will increase the rate of waste recycling.
• If an overflow pit is being equipped, then it practically does not need to be cleaned, since its design assumes the presence of several chambers for waste processing. In this case, sewage enters the first chamber, in which they accumulate. After the level of sewage reaches the overflow partition, they will flow into the second pit and there they will already be absorbed into the ground. The solid waste remains in the first pit and is processed by the bacteria.

Types of drain holes

According to the type of execution, cesspools are divided into:

• concrete storage,
• brick,
• with a receiving container
• temporary
• with timber formwork,
• without a bottom, with the output of waste moisture directly into the ground.

We make a drain hole from concrete

It is a pre-fabricated solution for receiving sewage and has the following advantages:

• Construction speed. In fact, with a set of factory-made concrete rings, such a structure is built in one day. There is only one drawback - you will need a crane or an excavator to work.
• Reliability and durability of concrete.
• Minimum installation complexity.

Such a structure is being erected quickly:

• First, a hole of the planned depth is dug.
• The site is then levelled.
• Using a crane, the first ring is installed.
• The soil from under the ring is evenly removed, while exposing signal supports that prevent the structure from skewing.
• After the second ring was installed on the first ring, they are fastened together with metal brackets.

The installation is continued in the same way to the planned depth.

When all the rings have been placed, a concrete floor is installed with the help of a crane with holes made in it for the hatch and the ventilation pipe. The finished structure should rise above the ground at a level of at least 30 cm.

To provide it with better tightness, all seams and the junction with the sewer pipe are carefully sealed with bituminous mastic.

The problem of the hermetic design will be its rapid filling, and the need for frequent calls for sewage services, which will pump out sewage. In the same case, if the withdrawal of water into the ground is allowed, then rings with holes made are purchased. The installation technology is no different from the above.

To give finished construction a more complete look in terms of aesthetics, you need to sprinkle with earth the part protruding above the soil surface drain system, while providing planting with plantings that will perform a decorative function. For example, planting a Moorish lawn that is undemanding to the conditions will make it possible to turn a purification plant into a flowering flower bed.

Brick drain hole

According to experts, the best option will be the use of ceramic bricks, which will ensure the strength and durability of the structure. The process of building a drain pit made of bricks is conditionally divided into several stages:

• in a hole dug to the required depth, a drainage layer 20 cm thick is placed, consisting of sand and crushed stone of different fractions,
• after that, they begin to build walls, laying bricks in checkerboard pattern, taking into account a gap of 5 cm between them for better filtration of waste substances,
• on all sides, bricks, as the masonry grows, are lined with crushed stone of large fractions,
• in the masonry make the necessary clearance for inserting a sewer pipe.

There are often conflicting recommendations about the final step. For example, to reduce costs, it is proposed to perform masonry half a brick thick, but it is important to remember that such a design will hardly take the weight of a concrete closing cover.

The design itself provides for two options for laying bricks:

• down to ground level
• 80 cm below ground level.

In the case of laying bricks to ground level, space must be left, taking into account the thickness of the closing cover made of concrete. The recommended construction with the completion of masonry, not reaching the ground by 80 cm, raises some doubts about its appropriateness for a number of reasons:

• since the design will require the installation of a closing cover, in the end the drain will still be deepened into the ground by at least 50 cm - which is dangerous by a possible fall into the pit,
• it is advised to fill the cover with earth to the surface level, but in this case, either access to the hatch will be blocked, or another pipe of a larger diameter than the dimensions of the cover will have to be mounted on the installed cover - and in this case the system will be subjected to additional load.

Masonry is inferior to concrete in a number of factors:

• a concrete structure is erected much faster and ultimately requires less funds for construction,
• brick is more susceptible to moisture,
• for uniform distribution loads on the walls of the cesspool should have a cylindrical shape.

The expediency of erecting brickwork is manifested only when it is not possible to call heavy trucks.

Receiving containers made of plastic

If the question of how to make a drain pit without resorting to special costs is acute, then you need to pay attention to the option of installing a polymer tank of the required capacity. In this case, all work boils down to the fact that the required amount of earth is dug under the tank, and then the collection is placed in the prepared hole. After that, the remaining space is filled with soil. It is important to remember that sealed structures in without fail require the installation of a gas outlet.

Among the advantages are the following:

• ease of construction
• minimum costs in terms of labor intensity,
• protection of the air from the release of unpleasant odors,
• the durability of the polymer material, which is up to 50 years,
• during use, no waste substances enter the soil.

Of the minuses, you need to pay attention to the need for periodic pumping of sewage and the small capacity of the tank, so this option is optimal for use in low load conditions. For example, if the cottage is visited once a week, and a small amount of waste goes into the drain pit.

Temporary drain holes

They are made from used car tires. It is important to consider that the inner diameter must be at least a meter, otherwise the pit will quickly become clogged with sewage. In fact, the construction is easy to build: a hole of the required depth and diameter is pulled out, after which it is filled with tires, laying them one on one to the ground level.

Among the advantages of the design are the following:

• ease of work
• low price of waste tires,
• after laying, the empty space is filled with earth, and no additional finishing is required.

It is worth remembering that the design is suitable for a toilet placed outside and not connected to the house by a sewer system. Since it is assumed that the load on the pit will be negligible. Despite its name, with infrequent use, such a pit will last up to 25 years.

Drainage pit with timber formwork

Like the previous design, the use of wood is suitable as a temporary solution. In fact, this option is still sometimes used in rural areas and in some summer cottages, but due to the fact that wood, even with high-quality processing, will not withstand more than ten years, use wooden formwork doesn't make much sense. Nevertheless, this is a drain pit, the price of which will be the most acceptable and will not exceed 3000-4000 rubles.

Of course, the speed of erection and isolation of the soil from sewage are the advantages of the design, but nevertheless, it is inferior to all varieties of the cesspool and for the most part serves as a relic of the past.

Drain hole without a bottom

It is a cesspool constructed of bricks, with the difference that the bottom of the drain is not processed. In some cases, the bottom is covered with a metal mesh, but in a chemically aggressive environment, it quickly rusts and loses its suitability. Impurities evenly fall into the ground, but due to the strong silting of the bottom of the pit, additional cleaning is periodically required.

In addition to the above, when arranging a cesspool, you need to pay attention to some tips to increase processing efficiency and ensure greater durability of the structure:

• Drainage of the bottom of the pit is best done using coarse gravel to prevent premature silting. The layer thickness must be at least 10 cm.
• To improve drainage, asbestos pipes are inserted at the bottom, which are installed with a ledge at a level of 50 cm from the bottom.
• It is better to finish the walls with clay to reduce the concentration of hit harmful substances into the ground.
• In the event that there is one cesspool on the site, but its volume is not enough, it is more expedient to arrange another one nearby and connect PVC pipe from the first. In this case, the structure will become overflow and will need to be cleaned much less frequently.
• From the first moment of use it is necessary to apply special preparations containing bacteria. They speed up the natural recycling process and reduce odor.
• The overlap should extend above ground level so that in the event of heavy rain, the drain pit does not overflow with water and its contents do not fall into the area.
• In any embodiment, the design must include a chimney to remove accumulations of methane and other hazardous substances.
• Inorganic substances, including low-quality toilet paper, can significantly reduce the life of the structure and contribute to heavy silting of the surface.

People tend to travel outside the metropolis, to the country, to be closer to nature, fresh air and earth. But there one unpleasant discovery awaits them - the absence of the usual urban amenities, one of which is sewerage. There is no centralized system traditional for the city, so for comfortable living you have to lay pipes for wastewater and get acquainted with such a concept as a drain pit in a private house.

The principle of operation of country sewerage

The modern dacha is fundamentally different from the village houses of the last century. Economic townspeople replaced toilets hastily knocked together in the yard with comfortable toilet bowls, installed showers, bathtubs, washing and dishwashers. The question arose: where should the dirty used water go?

So there was an elementary sewer system: a set of discharge pipes that lead to a storage tank installed in a summer cottage outside the building. Different structures can act as a storage device: an expensive station biological treatment, a simpler device - a septic tank or cesspool, known since ancient times. Waste and sewage through pipes enter the store, from where they are taken out at different intervals by special equipment.

Regular pumping of the contents of the waste pit - required condition its use. The only way effective cleaning drive - call for vacuum trucks

Most vacationers, especially those who spend only their summer holidays in the country, dream of installing a suitable drive quickly and cheaply. Perfect option in this case- do-it-yourself drain pit. For its construction, it will take several days and a minimum of costs - mainly improvised material: bricks, boards, cement.

Calculation of the volume of the drive

Before digging a pit, it is necessary to determine its dimensions, as well as the approximate volume of wastewater. It is generally accepted that 0.5 m³ of the total volume of the pit should be allocated for each tenant. But you need to take into account the incalculable consumption of water during water procedures and use household appliances, therefore a tank of at least 6 m³ is required for a family of 4.

The slope of the base of the pit towards the location of the hatch is necessary for the full pumping of sewage by sewage equipment - a specially provided hose that is lowered to the bottom

The dimensions of the structure depend on the volume of incoming effluents, but there are certain boundaries. For example, the depth of a country drain pit should not exceed three meters, otherwise the sewage equipment simply cannot cope with cleaning. The width is usually 1-1.5 m, the length is 2.5-3 m.

Attention! The soil level should exceed the filling level of the pit by at least 1 meter. This is a kind of insurance against spillage of sewage beyond the boundaries of the pit.

Choosing a suitable construction site

It is important not to make a mistake in choosing a location. The question arises: how to make a pit for a drain pit, so that sanitary standards are not violated?

The diagram shows the approximate location of the drain tank in relation to residential building, water source and nearby obstacles

There are a number of rules:

• The minimum distance from the house to the drive is 5 m.
• The distance to the nearest water source is 30 m or more.
• The pit should be located in an open space, not fenced with buildings or a fence.
• A prerequisite is a good access road for a sewage truck.

It is necessary to consider the drain pit as an object of increased danger, so the playground and recreation areas should be located on the other side of the house.

An example of the construction of a brick pit

Stage #1 - earthworks and foundation

Digging a pit is a difficult and time-consuming process, so it is better to use an excavator if possible. The most convenient shape is considered rectangular or square, but pits and cylindrical configurations can also be found. During digging, the condition of the walls should be monitored: they should be even and protected from shedding.

If you haven't had to do it before brickwork, it is better to choose a building rectangular shape: straight walls and corners are easier to form

Features of the device of the drain pit largely depend on the material. Let us consider in more detail the construction of a red brick storage tank with a concrete bottom.

The bottom of the tank should be given a slight slope towards the hatch - for effective cleaning. The bottom layer is a 15 cm sand cushion, then a concrete layer, and finally a cement-sand screed.

Attention! Instead of a multi-layer base, you can install on the bottom reinforced concrete slab suitable sizes.

Stage #2 - building walls

The material for the construction of the walls is red brick, the mortar for laying is a mixture of sand and clay, which will later play the role of plaster. Masonry is made traditional way- with a shift of the brick by half in the next row. The minimum thickness of the masonry is 0.25 m. brick walls partially permeable, but how to make a drain hole airtight? And it's very simple - you need to use bituminous mastic or a similar waterproofing solution.

During the construction of the pit, a long ladder and any useful material at hand, such as boards and beams left over from the construction of the house, are used.

Attention! Bitumen-based mastics cover only absolutely dry walls.

Stage # 3 - installation of the overlap

The most durable is the reinforced concrete floor. Wood and plastic are not suitable, as they have a too short service life. Better if top part the structure will be blocked from the sides by 0.3 m. The pumping hole should be located in the upper part, but not in the center, but on the side of the slope of the base. Design for concrete floor created in several stages. Pour the first layer of the solution (5-7 cm), then lay on it iron bars, topped with a second layer of concrete. When the overlap is completely hardened, it must be masked: covered with a thick film and covered with soil. Only the hatch should be visible from the ground.

Only the manhole cover remains visible on the surface of the earth. It can be made of concrete, plastic or metal.

As you can see, it is not difficult to make a brick drain pit, just basic skills in masonry and wall processing are enough.

Advantages and disadvantages of the structure

The advantages of a drain tank include the following factors:

• Ease of installation and maintenance. You can dig a hole and ennoble it yourself, and to clean it, just call the sewers.
• Independence of installation from soil type. In sandy soil, a clay castle is used for greater strength.
• Protecting groundwater from pollution. Concrete bottom and brick walls prevent runoff from penetrating into the ground, but if it seeps out, soil bacteria can handle the cleanup.

Before you dig a storage drain hole, you should also consider its negative sides. One of the tangible troubles is the periodically occurring smell of sewage. Regular cleaning will help eliminate this problem.

A well-equipped road leading directly to the waste pit is a guarantee of high-quality cleaning. Road construction is best done at the stage of building a house

It is necessary to get used to frequent visits to the sewers - 1-2 times a week. Only with frequent cleaning of the pit does silting occur. The service life of a brick drive is no more than 15 years, since the masonry slowly collapses under the influence of water. If for some reason the cesspool ceases to suit, you can install a more functional septic tank that performs mechanical and bacteriological wastewater treatment.

Have you thought about the issue of making a country water supply? Then you should know that in addition to it, you will also have to make a country sewer. By and large, it differs little from the system of sewage conduits that are laid in the city - the difference between them lies only in the point of discharge of polluted water. If in the city all sewer pipes lead to treatment facilities(at least, this should ideally be the case), then in the country a drain pit is used as their role. It's about her, or rather about her self construction, and the conversation will go in this article, in which, together with the website, we will deal with its device, manufacturing technology and materials that can be used to create it.

How to make a drain hole photo

Drain pit: device and principle of operation

Structurally, the classic drain pit is a simple fixture that almost every person can make in the country - even special skills are not needed here. Moreover, it can be made from a fairly large number of improvised materials. This is on the one hand, but if you look at this device from the other side, then, like all technical devices, the drain pit has its own subtleties and nuances that you need to know. First of all, this device and the principle of operation - if you understand these points, then there will be no problems with the selection of materials for the pit, or with its direct construction. The classic drain pit consists of the following elements.

You can see more details about the device and the principle of building a drain pit in the country in this video.

In principle, this is the whole device - as you can see, a do-it-yourself drain pit does not differ in complexity of design. The principle of its operation looks even simpler - drains falling into the pit are simply absorbed into the soil. This is with regard to their liquid part - with solid waste, things are somewhat different. First, they accumulate at the bottom and do everything to clog the channels in the soil and prevent the rapid absorption of liquid - they kind of set themselves the task of making sure that they are constantly in the water. In the end, this will happen - when this happens, you just need to start adding special bacteria to the pit, which will liquefy the solid waste of human life.

Do-it-yourself drain pit in the country: what to make

As you already understood, the main element of the drain pit, which, in general, will have to be built, is a persistent wall that prevents the destruction of the pit. It can be made from various materials, which you can collect quite a lot - naturally, we will not do this and consider only the most common options. The task is not to poke your nose, they say, do it, but to clarify the principle, having understood which, you can independently select the material you need for the drain pit from what is available at the dacha.

In general, the principle is simple - you need to create some kind of container. How and from what you make it is now up to you. You need to go through the cottage well, and other storage facilities - you see, something suitable will come across.

How to make a drain hole: a bottom filter and its purpose

Bottom filter - without it, not a single pit is able to serve long time- it is for this reason that the question of how to make the bottom of the drain pit should be given Special attention. There is nothing complicated here, you just need to know a couple of points, which, in general, extend the life of the drain pit in the country.

In principle, these are all the nuances associated with the manufacture of a bottom drain pit filter. They should not disdain, even when building a small drain pit - as mentioned above, it is able to increase the life of an individual two or even three times.

In conclusion of the topic about how a drain pit is made, I will say a few words about its close relative - a septic tank. They are distinguished from each other by the presence of several chambers in the second one, in which solid and liquid waste is separated. As a result, one liquid reaches the chamber in which water is absorbed into the soil, as a result of which the ducts in the soil are practically not clogged. Consequently, such a pit also serves without pumping out for a very long time - if you make a septic tank correctly, then you can use it for almost half a century. Read about how to do it in another article on our site.