Installation of an acrylic bathtub on a profile. Selection and installation of an important frame for acrylic bathtubs

Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands is not a joke for you, but a complex, high-tech process, the violation of which leads to a decrease in the life of the sanitary ware. In this article, together with the site site, we will step by step study the entire process of installing an acrylic bathtub from start to finish. In addition, in this step-by-step photo tutorial, we will pay special attention to the intricacies of the installation process and focus on the main problems that you may encounter when installing a corner acrylic bathtub.

For greater accessibility of understanding, we will conditionally divide the entire process of installing an acrylic bathroom into four main stages:

1. bath assembly;
2. warming;
3. installation, adjustment and strengthening of the bottom of the bath;
4. installation of the screen for the bath and its proper docking with the walls.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation photo

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation: assembly and preparation for installation

The process of installing a corner acrylic bathtub, or rather its assembly, which includes the installation of a drain siphon and support legs, is an important step, the wrong approach to which can bring a lot of problems. It is more convenient to start this stage of work from the legs - having a ready-made support structure, it is much more convenient to carry out all other manipulations with a bathtub.

So let's get started. Installing the legs on is very simple process. They consist of a set of different materials - as a rule, these are two profile pipes with many holes in them, studs, nuts, self-tapping screws, washers and plastic heels. It is them that we have to combine together at this stage of work.

Installing the legs on acrylic bath a photo

First comes the profile pipe - it is attached directly to the bottom of the acrylic bath with at least six self-tapping screws. It is necessary to use for this purpose exactly those self-tapping screws that come with the legs - their size is carefully selected and does not allow, as they say, to scroll through the bath.

The profile pipe is located on one and the other side of the bottom of the bath and is screwed with a screwdriver - using a screwdriver, you risk stripping the thread cut with a self-tapping screw. It should be clarified that the screws must be screwed into the thickened part of the bottom of the bath.

Then everything is simple - studs are inserted into the wide holes of the profile pipe and fixed on both sides with nuts and washers. After that, a nut is screwed onto the ends of the studs, a washer is put on and an adjustable heel is screwed on. All! We can say that the legs are assembled and installed.

Installing an acrylic bath on legs with your own hands photo

We move on and go to the siphon. To do this, turn the bath over and put it on its feet. We open the package with the siphon and install it. I want to say right away that it is better to act in accordance with the manufacturer's scheme - any violations can lead to leaks, which will be very, very difficult to eliminate after the installation of an acrylic bathtub on legs. All gaskets and their seats must be carefully checked for burrs and removed if necessary.

Installing a siphon on an acrylic bathtub photo

How to install an acrylic bath and insulate it

It's no secret that acrylic baths, just like steel ones, do not retain heat well and cool quickly. Agree, for a bath this is a bad quality that needs to be eliminated. This is done simply:

1. First, turn the bathtub upside down and carefully moisten its bottom and sides with water using a rag.
2. Secondly, armed with four or five large cylinders of mounting foam, we blow out not only the bottom, but also the sidewalls with it - we “make” a kind of thermos.
3. Thirdly, we leave the bath in this position for 6-8 hours until the polyurethane sealant dries completely.

How to insulate an acrylic bathtub with mounting foam photo

In the process of such warming of the bath, some nuances arise - the foam can fall off the sides. To prevent this from happening, you need to apply it in a thin stream. To a greater extent, non-falling of the foam is facilitated by moisture, which ensures high-quality gluing of this material to any surface. When blowing foam at the bottom, you need to properly foam the legs - after drying, this material will provide additional rigidity to the supporting structure of the bath.

Only after complete drying of the mounting foam, you can proceed to the direct installation of the corner acrylic bath.

Adjusting and strengthening the bottom of the acrylic bath

The question of how to properly install an acrylic bathtub is quite difficult to solve and consists of several stages.

At the first stage, the bath must be installed in the place allotted for it and carefully adjusted according to - the leveling of this plumbing fixture relative to the horizon is carried out in two positions. First you need to set the horizon plane along its length, and then along its width. Adjustment is carried out due to the support legs, by screwing or unscrewing which the required position of the bath in space is achieved.

It should be noted that there is no need to lay any slopes towards the drain. This slope is laid in the bottom of the bath at the stage of its production.

Having achieved the necessary position of the bath, it must, as they say, be “fastened” to the walls - for this, special brackets or ordinary metal hooks are used. First, the position of the bathtub is marked on the wall, then it is moved away, and according to the marked places, holes are drilled and brackets are attached. Then the bath is pushed into place, the brackets are pressed up so that they go beyond the edges of the bath, and securely clamped. This is done in order to reduce the influence of the weight of water and a person, as well as to reduce the ability of the bath to sag.

How to install an acrylic bathtub photo

At the next stage of resolving the issue of how to install a corner acrylic bath, the bottom of the bath is strengthened. Everything is simple here - bricks are placed under it, and the gaps between the bathroom and the bricks are filled with high quality. It should be noted that due to the ability of the foam to expand, the bath can be lifted up, and to prevent this from happening, it must be filled with water. After the foam has hardened, the water is drained and at the same time the drain siphon is checked.

Installation of a decorative screen and sealing of the docking of the bath to the walls

Let's start with the screen, although there is no difference what to do first. The screen is installed on an acrylic bathtub using special clips that are installed from the bottom of the bathtub and on the floor.

Installing the screen on an acrylic bath photo

First, the upper clips are screwed (for this, there are wooden or plastic slips from the edge of the bathtub and from the bottom), then the vertical plane of their installation is transferred to the floor, and the opposite clips are installed.

Installation of an acrylic bath: screen installation

Once all the latches are in place, the bathtub front panel simply snaps onto them.

How to install an acrylic bath with your own hands photo

Docking of an acrylic bathtub to the walls is carried out with the help of special curb tapes or plastic skirting boards. Here, too, no problems should arise - first, the silicone is pumped into the gap between the bathroom and the wall, and after it hardens, a tape or baseboard is installed. When resorting to the help of a plastic plinth, it should be understood that its installation is also carried out using silicone.

That's all! We can say with a clear conscience that the installation of an acrylic bathtub with your own hands is completed. After the silicone, which ensures the tightness of the connection between the bath and the walls, dries, this plumbing fixture can be fully exploited.

August 28, 2016
Specialization: master in construction drywall constructions, finishing works and laying of floor coverings. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

Acrylic constructions are becoming more and more popular every year, and this is no wonder - the material looks great and is so light that one person can carry the bath. But the choice of a high-quality design and the correct installation of an acrylic bathtub are very important. Next, I will talk about all the important aspects so that you can independently cope with these works and get the result no worse than that of professional specialists.

Stage one - choosing a quality option

I will consider this part of the process separately, because if you buy a low-quality product, then even the most ideal installation will not help and the design will either deform or lose its attractive appearance very soon.

You can get a good result only by using a good product, I dealt with Triton bathtubs, and I was quite satisfied with their characteristics, but you can also purchase products from European and American manufacturers, its price will be much higher, but you don’t need to worry about quality.

I will tell you what factors you need to pay attention to when choosing:

Size and shape	Naturally, you must first take measurements of your premises in order to understand how much space you have. You also need to decide on the shape of the font, it can be different, but conditionally all products can be divided into wall and corner, the second option is great for small spaces square shape. More bizarre modifications are best placed in spacious bathrooms, for small ones, classic models are still better.
Acrylic layer thickness	The inner surface of the products is made of acrylic polymer, the thickness of the sheet can be 2, 4 or 6 mm. Everything is simpler here: the thicker the layer, the stronger the structure and the less it is subject to deformation. I advise you to choose products with an acrylic thickness of at least 4 mm, it is easy to see it: look at the end part of the side, all layers and their thickness are visible on it
Mounting layer material	The outer surface of such structures is reinforced with fiberglass or polyurethane. The layer of reinforcing material must also be at least a few millimeters. As practice shows, fiberglass is slightly stronger than polyurethane, it is easy to distinguish it by a rough outer surface (polyurethane has a smooth one)
High surface quality	In solid baths, the surface is perfectly smooth - without flaws and irregularities. The color must be the same, changes in shade and streaks are not allowed. Run your hand along the inner surface - you should not feel any roughness or unevenness
Smell	The easiest way to determine the quality is to smell the structure, if it emits a pungent odor, then it’s not very good in front of you. reliable option. Solid baths practically do not smell, as high-quality components are used for their production.

When buying, knock on the wall - the sound should be deaf, not sonorous. You can also use a flashlight test - shine on the wall of the bathtub from the outside and check if the light spot is visible from the inside, if not, then you have a good option.

Another important factor is the complete set of the bath, many are guided by the price when choosing, but you need to pay attention to the complete set, because cheap options most often include only a bath, while solid products have many additional elements:

• Mounting frame with adjustable legs;

• Self-tapping screws, dowels, wall mounting brackets. European manufacturers, among other things, complete the bathtub with drills that will be needed during work.

Installation work

This process consists of four stages, we will consider each of them separately. Perform them in the same order in which they are described, so you do not confuse anything and do not make mistakes when working. Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation is a responsible process, violation of at least one recommendation can lead to the fact that the structure will fail very quickly.

Stage two - preparatory activities

As part of this stage, it is necessary, firstly, to assemble all the required tools and fixtures, and secondly, to prepare the premises for future work. Let's start with the first aspect:

• To drill holes in the wall, we need a puncher with a drill of the required diameter and length;
• A screwdriver is needed to assemble the structure and tighten the fasteners. In addition, they can very well drill holes in acrylic, if necessary;
• To adjust the legs of the bathroom, it is worth having on hand open end wrench appropriate size (I had 17);
• When constructing a brick support, you will need a container for preparing the mortar and a trowel for applying it to the elements;
• To take measurements, you need a tape measure, to control the angles - a square, and in order to set the structure perfectly even, you can not do without using building level. Marking is done with a construction pencil or felt-tip pen.

Also, do not forget about additional materials:

• To seal the joint between the bathroom and the wall, you can use a special sealing tape, you can install a special border. More simple option is the use of silicone sealant, it is resistant to moisture and seals the joint well;

Before you start installing an acrylic bath, you need to prepare the room:

• If it is planned to lay ceramic tiles on the floor, then the work must be done in advance;
• The same applies to the walls, although sometimes the finish starts from the edge of the bathtub, in which case the lining is done after the installation of the bathtub;
• The most important thing is that the surface of the walls is even, and the angle between them is right., it is necessary to check the plane in order to level it with a plaster mortar if necessary.

Stage three - assembly of the structure

It is this part of the work that most often raises numerous questions from those who have never been involved in such activities. People are afraid of damaging something or making mistakes during assembly.

In fact, there is nothing wrong with this work, you need to act carefully and follow a few simple recommendations:

• First of all, you need to study all the documentation that comes with the bathroom. If you have a quality product, then there will definitely be an assembly instruction with detailed diagrams and step by step algorithm the work performed, this will greatly simplify the understanding of the individual nuances of the process;

• First you need to print the bathroom, lay cardboard on the floor and turn the structure upside down. This will provide easy access to the attachment points, the main thing is that the layer of cardboard on the floor is sufficient, and you do not scratch the sides during work;
• Then you need to disassemble all the fasteners and lay them out on a flat surface so that you are comfortable in the process and do not have to poke around in a bunch of pieces of iron and plastic. According to the diagram, you can figure out which element is installed where, this will simplify all further work;
• To date, there are two options for mounting the frame. The first one involves drilling holes for mounting screws, in this case marking is done by applying the lower part of the frame and drilling to a certain depth. In the second case, there are already holes and nothing needs to be drilled; recently, most often I meet prepared structures, which greatly simplifies the work;

You need to drill to a certain depth, so as not to make a through hole, wrap electrical tape around the drill as a guide, so you can clearly control the process.

• The guides are fastened with screws, they must be fixed securely and motionless. It is best to use a screwdriver, but, in extreme cases, you can get by with a conventional screwdriver of a suitable configuration;

• Then the legs are installed and vertical racks are attached, all this work is carried out according to the instructions. Frame configurations vary by tub shape and manufacturer, but the build process is roughly the same. Some bathrooms big shape you may need to attach additional legs to the bottom, the assembly diagram will indicate correct sequence works;

• Next you need to attach the siphon, the work consists of three stages: first, the overflow is fixed, then the drain hole, after which the structure is assembled completely. Modern options they are quite easy to assemble, there is always a diagram on the package, according to which even the most inexperienced master can connect (at one time I correctly assembled and installed the siphon the first time).

Stage four - the construction of a brick support

As for this part of the work, it is not provided for by the manufacturers, but, as practice shows, additional strengthening of the lower part only benefits acrylic bathtubs. They are less deformed and better withstand the loads that inevitably end up on them. Installing an acrylic bath using an additional brick base eliminates the deformation of the structure at the location of the fasteners.

If only legs are used, the structure may weaken over time, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to tighten the fasteners more tightly. The presence of a brick base will save you the problem of how to strengthen it so that it does not stagger support system, because the load on the frame will be at least half as much.

The workflow looks like this:

• First you need to install the bath in the place of its future location and align the legs with more, we do not need accuracy at this stage, it is important to mark the location of the structure in order to determine the size and height of the future system;
• The brick support can be located in the middle between the supporting elements of the frame, or it can pass under them, it all depends on the size of the bowl and the height of the structure above the floor level. Remember that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm between the brick and the bathtub or frame, then it will be eliminated;

• Next, a solution is prepared, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made masonry mixture, which is enough to be diluted with water and mixed before use. Usually, one bag weighing 25 kg is enough for the construction of the structure, but it all depends on the amount of bricks being laid;
• Masonry does not require special care and beauty, anyway it will not be visible later, you can use different bricks. The main thing is that the height is as needed, and the elements are held securely, there are no other requirements;

• The solution should dry for at least a day, but work can be continued immediately, since we will not put a load on the constructed base.

Stage five - installation of the structure

Now let's figure out how to install an acrylic bathtub correctly, the workflow consists of the following activities:

• First of all, you need to put the structure in the place of its future location and move it to the walls as tightly as possible. As I noted above, if the ceramics will be laid only above the level of the bowl, then it is better to do it after installing the bathroom, since installation under the tile involves determining the exact position of the system even before starting work, and it is difficult to do without the appropriate experience. It may turn out that you made a miscalculation and you have to come up with a way out;

• Leveling the bathtub is another very milestone works. Everything is simple here: the level is placed on the side, and you use the threads on the legs to unscrew them into the desired position. You need to check the plane on all sides, you don’t need to make a slope towards the drain, the shape of the bowl itself has the desired slope, and the water will flow into it without problems, most importantly - do not forget to fix the position of the supports with lock nuts at the end of work;

• When the structure is in a leveled position, you need to mark the bottom edge of the side on the wall, after which the bath is set aside. Next, you should take the mounting plates and mark their location on the wall, attaching the elements, you need to mark the places where you will need to drill holes for the fasteners. At the same time, it is worth slightly lowering the mount to the wall - by about 3 mm in order to compensate for the subsidence of acrylic under loads;

• Then the structure is installed in place, it is better to work with an assistant here, carefully position the bath so that its side engages with the installed brackets. Many people ask how to fix the bowl tightly to the wall, but this is not necessary - the brackets are required only to prevent the structure from tipping over, and there should be a small gap between them and the side, since the material tends to sag under the weight of water;
• After installation, all communications are connected, first of all, it concerns sewerage. It is important to check the siphon for leaks, so you need to pour out at least a few liters of water and check all connections for leaks, if everything is fine, then this stage can be considered successfully completed;
• 3-4 days after the construction of the brick base, you can proceed to the next stage of the construction of the base. The space between the support and the bath is filled with mounting foam, this material allows you to tightly fill the void and has good resistance to stress;

• Lastly, a decorative screen is installed that covers the ugly lower part and makes the bath more attractive. Instructions on how to install this structural element are always included with the product, the work is simple, since there are always mounting brackets on the bathroom.

I've shown you how to securely install an acrylic bathtub using both frame and brick support. This method is quite simple to implement and at the same time it is free from the disadvantages of the frame (loosening over time) and brick (insufficiently reliable fixation of the sides).

Let's figure out how to fix the seal around the perimeter. If you have a special tape, then it is bent in the middle and glued to the wall and side of the bathtub, a special tape is inserted into the gap and sealed with silicone sealant.

And if you decide to use only silicone, then you need to fill the gap with it, and then remove the excess composition with a rubber spatula, it will make the connection even and neat.

And one more nuance that I would like to talk about is the possibility of strengthening the bath and improving it. thermal insulation characteristics. To do this, its outer surface is covered with a layer of mounting foam, which reduces the noise from the water and ensures the slow cooling of the water in the bowl.

Conclusion

Installing an acrylic bathtub is a fairly simple process if you understand the instructions and follow all of its recommendations. The video in this article will help you understand the work even better, and if you have questions on the topic, then feel free to write them in the comments below this review.

August 28, 2016

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The arrangement of the bathroom begins with the choice of plumbing. Most often, when performing repair work, they prefer to install bathtubs from such materials:

Cast iron- traditional material for bathtubs. Such baths are quite expensive, but durable. They are very difficult to install, so now cast iron equipment is losing popularity. Such plumbing is uneconomical: a bathtub is quite expensive. Of the other shortcomings - it warms up for a long time and cools down quickly.

Steel baths- inexpensive, easy to install, but they can not be called durable. Warm up quickly, cool down quickly. Experts advise putting them in small apartments. Faience and glass bathtubs are too fragile compared to the rest.

Acrylic sanitary ware gaining popularity due to its low price heavy weight, economy and ease of use (heats up quickly, cools down slowly). The average life of such baths is fifteen to twenty years.

Bathroom connection diagram

In addition, for bathrooms of different shapes, bathtubs of different geometries are chosen. The traditional shape is oval, but now round baths are gaining popularity. In large apartments and houses, even polygonal bathtubs are installed.

Related video: Do-it-yourself bathroom renovation. Bathtub installation, bathtub extension with a shelf and installation of a screen under the bathtub

If the choice is made in favor of acrylic plumbing, then the installation of equipment can be done independently. Must watch video step by step instructions and read technical information- so you will get acquainted with the stages of the procedure and learn about the difficulties that you may encounter when installing equipment in the bathroom.

Basic rules for storing a bathtub or sink

If, after purchasing acrylic plumbing, repairs are not started immediately, then you need to follow the basic storage rules:

• it is not necessary to remove the packaging material until the start of work
• it is forbidden to put foreign objects into empty plumbing
• equipment must be securely fastened, not wobble

To prevent the surface of plumbing from being scratched, it is important to ensure that construction debris does not fall on it.

Preparatory work for self-installation of an acrylic bath

Experts advise finishing the walls after installing the bath - this will reduce the risk of mold. The floor must be level. Also, if you are installing a cast iron bath, then remember that the floor must be very durable. Otherwise, it may simply not withstand the weight.

Installation is carried out on special legs, but for better stability, it is necessary to install an additional frame made of metal or brick. With some baths, additional structures are included, but if they are not, then it is best to make a substrate of bricks, foam blocks or wooden beams.

Before starting work on the installation of the substrate, it is necessary to mark the projection intended for draining on the bathroom floor.

Scheme of installing a bathroom on a brick

Traditional options for a reliable substrate:

• a solid masonry substrate is mounted under the entire acrylic bath or sink structure. To calculate the height of the substrate, it is necessary to leave about three centimeters of masonry for the installation of a polyurethane foam cushion
• brick pillars and cement pad

Step by step installation

To install a bath with your own hands, you will need cement, bricks, mounting foam, a hammer, a fork wrench, silicone sealant, electrical tape. You need to do the following:

• prepare a waterproofed platform of the required height
• carry out work on the installation of a reliable frame
• install plumbing equipment, having previously prepared it for installation
• carry out the necessary finishing work

If you follow this sequence of actions, the installation of the bath will be done correctly and quickly enough.

How to connect a sink or bathtub to the sewer

Many are concerned about the procedure for installing a bath, especially the installation of a sewer outlet. If you are afraid that you will not be able to connect the bath yourself, contact the experts. But if you figure out how to properly release water, then you can connect a sink or bathtub quickly enough. To better understand the process, it is helpful to watch tutorial videos online.

When connected plumbing equipment to the sewer, do the following:

• on the minimum distance water outlet needs to be installed
• install the siphon, connecting it to the sewer pipe before installation
• lay a rubber sleeve in the sewer pipe, lay the siphon pipe
• before mounting the coupling, grease it on both sides with silicone sealant
• install a sink or bath

Photo of installing a bath on bricks

Before work, make sure that the nozzle and pipe are dry. This is important for good sealing.

How to install a corner bath

Corner baths are often installed in small apartments. Despite the unusual design, installing a bathtub is a fairly simple process. To independently perform the installation of a corner bath made of acrylic, you must have certain knowledge and skills. The steps of the procedure are not much different from installing a traditional bath.

Photo of preparatory work

To install a corner bath, you must perform the following steps:

• set up a communication system
• straighten bathtub legs
• create a wireframe
• perform equipment installation

The installation of a corner-type bath (unlike a traditional bath) must be carried out on a combined substrate made of special legs built into the brick base.

If the bath has electrical options, a grounded socket must be installed. Often, when installing such plumbing, soundproofing is also carried out. Special material is placed between the bath and the floor.

Photo of bathtub installation and cladding

Often, when replacing plumbing in the bathroom, you have to change other equipment. It is best to do this at the same time so as not to damage communications and finishes.

Source: repair.youdo.com

Related video:

Acrylic and steel bath installation

We bring the bath into the room vertically sideways, holding the edge of the bath with one hand, and the previously installed supporting leg with the other. We install it in a permanent place, moving it close to the walls, adjust it in level, check the strength and reliability of fixation so that the bath does not “dance”. Next, the siphon is connected to the bathroom and sewage, sealing and sealing all places of possible leaks. Only after that, you can start lining the walls with ceramic tiles, after which, the legs are tightened to the stop.

Sometimes, there is a problem with the high location of the sewer hole. this usually happens in old houses, or, in new buildings, with an illiterately installed sewerage system. Then the bath needs to be raised to an additional height, if it is not cast iron, which is quite problematic to raise. Substitute for light baths wooden bars desired height, or lay out a substrate of red (white) brick, or, more simply, replace the threaded stud with a longer one. They are sold on construction markets and plumbing stores.

The cast-iron bathtub, known to us for a long time, has a lot of weight, so install it together. This bath is good because it keeps heat inside for a long time, therefore it is suitable for those who like to soak in fragrant foamy water for a long time, it is purchased once and for all.

A new bath is brought into the room vertically and turned over on its side, placed in its place with the bottom against the wall, and the outlet should be located in the direction we need. Supports are fixed from the upper side of the bathtub with a coupling bolt, if there are wedges, they are installed by lightly tapping from the center to the edges, until they are securely and firmly fixed.

An adjusting screw with a nut is pre-installed on each support.

Next, the bath is turned upside down, two missing side supports are installed. Now, using a level and an adjusting screw, align the bath to a perfect horizontal position, without tilting. If the installation surface of the legs is smooth and slippery, it is fixed with waterproof polymer glue, or decorative plastic plugs are used.

Then they connect to the water supply system by making reliable waterproofing all gaps, formed cracks and joints. The final stage of the bathroom installation is the installation of a faucet and a shower hose, taking into account all design features and ease of use in the future.

Corner photo

Decorative finishing is the final bathroom refurbishment, carried out only on a fully fixed product. Can be lined with a bath tiles, drywall, purchase a special protective screen, everything according to your desire and imagination. In any case, it is necessary to leave windows for access to pipes and drains, if necessary during the occurrence emergencies. It is strictly forbidden to tightly close these places so that you can eliminate the places of leakage at any time.

Source: repairset.ru

How to fix the bath: the correct sequence

Usually, a special bath mount is used, depending on the material from which it is made - steel, cast iron or acrylic:

• Benefits cast iron bathtubs are durability and the ability to retain heat longer, and the disadvantages include the large weight of the bath. Therefore, it should be mounted on a sufficiently strong and reliable surface,
• A steel bath can be mounted on a specially made podium. Bricks can be used to make a podium, as a result, the bath will stand on such a podium quite steadily and firmly, without swaying. Steel baths are much cheaper than cast iron ones, their main disadvantage is the noise when filling with water,

Useful: to eliminate noise when filling a steel bath with water, it is necessary to treat its surface with putty on the outside, which also allows the bath to retain heat longer.

• Acrylic bathtubs have a range of positive qualities: keep heat well, do not slip, have a pleasant appearance. At the same time, the strength of such baths is inferior to the strength of baths made of cast iron and steel.
  Acrylic bathtubs have a flexible bottom that can break under the weight of a heavy person. How to strengthen an acrylic bath? To do this, you have to make the shape and size of the bath solid construction made of metal, which is highly resistant.
• In addition to the podium, special iron legs can be used to fasten metal bathtubs. This method is sometimes less reliable - over time, the bath begins to sway a little.

We foam the corner

Basic principles of fastening

Regardless of whether the question of how to fix an acrylic bathtub or a metal one is considered, there are several general principles its attachments:

• Drain pipes are easiest to attach to the bath, laying it on its side,
• The first step is to connect the drain and only then fix the bath on the legs or podium,
• Next, you should slowly move the bath to the wall, adjust it in height and carefully fix it,
• After the bathtub is fixed to the wall, the gaps in the places where the bathtub and the wall come into contact should be sealed with a special lubricating mixture,
• Without waiting for the mixture to harden, they also install a plastic rim or baseboard.

Fixing various types of bathtubs

The fasteners used for the bathtub depend on what material it is made of:

• Cast iron bathtubs are usually installed on four cast supports (legs) rigidly fixed to the bathtub body. The fixation of the supports depends on the design of the bathtub and is carried out either by driving in the metal wedges included in the kit, or by tightening the coupling bolts.
• Important: when installing a cast-iron bathtub on a floor surface in the bathroom with a low or medium hardness. under each support, a metal (not aluminum) lining must be installed, the diameter of which is at least 50 mm and the thickness is at least 5 mm.
• Unlike heavy cast iron bathtubs, which can be securely installed even in the middle of the bathtub, the secure fixation of light steel baths achieved by adjoining the three walls of the bathroom. The bath is installed before the wall tiles are laid, and in the ideal case, the end walls are at a distance of 3-5 mm from each other exceeding the length of the bath.

Bathtubs are usually installed on legs, but the main problem with this is that placing the bathtub simply on the floor will cause it to sway during the bathing process. water procedures which causes some discomfort.

Photo of a bathtub installed on legs

In the case of a cast iron bath, the most effective way to solve this problem is to build a podium at the installation site.

An acrylic bathtub is fixed in much the same way as a steel bathtub. The main difference is that the supports are most often not fastened with bolts, but are screwed directly to the bottom of the bathtub with screws. If there are no ready-made holes in the seats for complete screws, they must be drilled independently.

Important: When drilling holes in acrylic, only stop drills should be used, as acrylic is very easy to drill.

Instructions for fixing the bath

Consider the main stages of fixing the bath.

The final part of the installation of the corner bath

Related video: Bath installation. How to install a bath with your own hands.

The first step is to figure out what material the bath is made of:

1. Cast iron bathtubs are highly durable and able to retain heat for a long time. At the same time, they also have a very high weight, so the best option for fixing a cast-iron bath is to build a podium.
2. Steel bathtubs are characterized by lower weight and cost, as well as simplicity. At the same time, their service life is also significantly lower than that of cast-iron bathtubs.
   In addition, steel baths quickly lose their attractive appearance, since the enamel comes off quite easily.
3. Acrylic bathtubs are comfortable, attractive, and retain heat well.

At the same time, when thinking about how to fix an acrylic bathtub, one should take into account its low strength, since there are cases when an acrylic bathtub could not withstand the weight of a full person, which was expressed in pushing its legs inside.

• The podium should only support the bottom of the bathtub, while its legs should remain on the floor.
• The podium is usually made of brick and leveled with a bubble level.
• After the construction of the podium, a bath is installed on it and the height of the legs is adjusted. Aligning the height will be greatly facilitated by the fact that now the bath rests on the podium, and not on the legs.

The bath is laid on its side and an overflow pipe is mounted outside to prevent the bath from overflowing. An outlet is mounted at the bottom of the bath.

• The floor siphon is connected to the overflow and outlet of the bath.
• The legs are attached to the bathroom and installed in such a way as to insert the siphon pipe into the sewer pipe.
• Move the bath close to the walls of the bathroom.
• The junction of the drain and the siphon is minted.
• Put small wooden plates under the legs installed bath so that the bath has a slight slope towards the drain, which prevents the accumulation of water inside the tank.
• After the bath is securely fixed and the height of the gap between the walls and sides of the bath is adjusted, it is sealed with putty or cement.
• After the bath is installed, it is closed with drywall. On top of it, tiles are laid in the bathroom or a plastic screen is installed under the bath.

Sheathing the installed bathroom with drywall

Source: eto-vannaya.ru

Determine the optimal height of the bath from the floor

Bathroom renovation is always accompanied by accurate calculations and careful measurements. After all, everything here is interconnected: plumbing is mounted taking into account the location of pipes and drains, cabinets and shelves in the best places for use.

Even the height of the bathtub from the floor is very significant, and this parameter should be taken into account when carrying out any repair work.

If professionals are engaged in the installation of plumbing and repairs, then by all means expect a question from them: what height of the bathtub from the floor do you need. It is worth thinking in advance what answer to give the masters. To do this, you need to analyze the following information:

1. Height of family members living in the house - it is always difficult for people of short stature to climb over high sides
2. The presence of children and elderly relatives in the house - it will also be difficult for them to master the high altitude due to their age and complexion.
3. Do you plan to decorate the walls with tiles, and what size will be its elements.

When the standard installation height is 60 cm, ceramic tile lays down exactly two or three rows from the floor. It does not need to be cut again and adjusted to size. It is very convenient when laying, more aesthetically pleasing in appearance and reduces the consumption of finishing material.

Tiles lay in perfect rows when exactly 60 cm from the floor to the sides of the bath

As for the distance from the sides of the sanitary ware to the floor, it easily changes during the installation process. Of course, the presence of adjustable legs should be clarified at the stage of purchase so that there are no problems in the future.

It is worth deciding in advance on the distance of the sides from the floor, since after the installation of cast-iron plumbing, it will be difficult to change something due to the large weight of the product.

Acrylic products are in the greatest demand among other types of sanitary ware, as they are lightweight, good thermal conductivity, easy installation and elegant design. However, such equipment is sensitive to improper care and are easily damaged by shock loads. The height of the acrylic bath from the floor is set without problems, thanks to the adjustable legs of the product.

Steel tubs are also easy to install, but are less popular than acrylic and cast iron. They are mounted with support on three walls, as they are not very stable. But their main disadvantages are that they quickly cool the water and are quite noisy during operation.

Since most of the bathtubs offered on the sanitary market have adjustable legs, then problems during installation usually do not arise.

So, standard height bathtubs from the floor - 60 centimeters, but if this indicator something inconvenient, then when installing the product, you can stop at your own version. It is not worth experimenting strongly - it is better to choose comfortable height in the range of 50-70 cm from the floor.

Height from the floor determines the comfort when using sanitary ware by a person

Laying bricks around the corner bath

When choosing a bath, two parameters should not be confused: the depth of the product and the height from the floor. The height is determined by the distance from the horizontal of the floor to the sides.

The depth is measured on the inside - also from the sides, but only to the bottom. If the installation of the bath is already close, and you have not yet decided on its height from the floor, then try to find best option by experience. Or listen to the advice of professional builders who will tell you the best solution, based on the interior of the room, the location of the decoration on the walls, as well as taking into account the exit of pipes and sewer drain.

Source: www.vannaguide.ru

Acrylic bathtubs are popular due to their attractive appearance, variety of designs and colors, affordable price and ease of installation. In addition, acrylic bathtubs are light in weight, non-porous, most of them have an antibacterial coating, and defects are cleaned with special pastes. But there are also disadvantages - the surface does not withstand mechanical damage, cleaning with abrasive products, and they keep heat to a lesser extent than cast-iron bathtubs, and it is not recommended to sit on the sides of acrylic bathtubs.

Preparing to install an acrylic bath

The bath is installed in the room before it is tiled. Before choosing a new bath, turn off the central tap, dismantle old bath, cut out or break out the old drain (depending on whether it is metal or plastic), clean the sewer socket, then insert the corrugation (drain valve element) into it and generously lubricate the joints with silicone sealant, the floors must be carefully leveled.

After that, they begin to measure, carefully checking all the dimensions of the place where the new bath will be located. When choosing a location, keep in mind that the bathtub should not block access to pipes, but at the same time fit snugly against the wall.

The last stage of preparing the bathroom is the cleaning of construction waste.

Scheme drawing of installation and connection of the bathroom

The shape of the bath can be not only rectangular, but also other geometric shapes - round, square, angular and others. At the same time, despite the shape, the walls of the bath should not bend under the pressure of the hand, be translucent, there should not be a caustic chemical smell.

A sign of quality is the number of supports. A fairly solid product has four corner supports, a less durable one has more. Included with the purchase, check the quality certificates, the batch number of the product, the availability of installation instructions, fittings, the quality and quantity of fasteners.

Installation options for an acrylic bath: frame with legs, brickwork and a combination of these two methods. The most correct is the first method, installing the bath on a special frame, which should come with the bath.

Tools and materials for work

One of preparatory stages is the preparation of materials and tools for work. Stock up on the following:

• mounting gun for sealant,
• building level,
• wrench,
• corrugated or rigid tube.

Tiling an installed bathroom

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation procedure

Before starting the installation and installation of the bath, it is necessary to turn it over.

• unpack all the details of the frame fasteners,
• put guide marks with a pencil, one will be located closer to the drain, the other closer to the head of the bath,

• according to these marks, we drill holes for screws (it is advisable to set a mark on the drill with a piece of electrical tape so that it does not pass through the bathtub, and the hole is not more than six millimeters deep),
• we fasten the fastening brackets with self-tapping screws, and the legs of the product to them.

Siphon installation

Brickwork for subsequent installation of a bathroom on it

• connect the top drain hole, then the bottom one,
• collect siphon,

• degrease the surfaces with a solvent and apply a layer of plumbing sealant.
• turn the bath over and, using the level, measure the degree of curvature of the bath along and across it and, accordingly, twist the legs in the right direction.

Bathroom with adhesive soundproofing

• The bathtub is adjusted according to the level

Install hooks to prevent the tub from tipping over

Photo of making a bathroom box

• mark on the wall the line of the edge of the bath,
• drilling holes with a perforator,
• fasten the hooks to the wall with dowels,
• we put the bath on these hooks.

Drain connection

• We connect the siphon to the sewer using a corrugation or a rigid tube.

Bathroom installation

• We check the bath for leaks (fill the bath with water and carefully look to see if a leak is detected, if any, we re-treat with a plumbing sealant, after drying and degreasing the surfaces).

Bathroom installation process

Source: stroyvopros.net

How to install a bath on bricks: lay out a brick base and side

The method of installing the bath depends on the type of room (combined with a bathroom or autonomous) and its area, the size of the bath itself, the presence of other plumbing fixtures in the room and household appliances, furniture, etc. Installation of the bathtub on bricks ensures maximum stability. At the very beginning, we want to note that ergonomic requirements require maintaining a distance of about 0.9 m from the bathtub rim.

Foam as soundproofing

Installing the bath on legs does not guarantee its stability: the screw fastening loosens over time, reducing static. The most reliable location for a cast-iron bowl is on solid brickwork. But just placing the bowl on such a “pedestal” is not enough.

It is necessary to do the work with high quality, which means that, slowly, step by step, install it so that there is no gap between the side of the bathtub and the wall where water enters, and then, over time, mold forms. First you need to understand that cast iron products are heavy in themselves, and given the average dimensions of bathtubs 80 × 160 at a height of 50 cm, it is clear why installation must be done by at least two people.

The cast iron bath must be installed on a brick base. Note: despite the seeming archaism of such baths, they are actively used, tk. the heat capacity index of cast iron exceeds all other materials at times!

Brick base for a cast-iron bath

Just a few steps, and the bath will be installed on a solid foundation. For this you need:

Installing a corner bath

• Measure the room and the bath, consider its location in relation to others household appliances and sanitary equipment.
• Prepare bricks. They need just enough to lay out a scaffolding 2-3 bricks high across the bath. On average, 20 pieces. To get a notch (bed), another half-brick is laid along the edges. Depending on the length of the product, the number of rows is calculated, given that the optimal distance between them is 50 cm. The height of the bath on bricks from the sides to the floor should not be higher than 0.7 m, so that it is convenient to climb into it. The height of the front scaffold is 17 cm, and from the other end it is performed 2 cm higher.

Masonry is done on a sand-cement mortar: for one part of cement there are 4 parts of sand with water mixed in. The edges of the container are attached to the wall tile adhesive. For greater reliability, the side surfaces of the bath adjacent to the wall are processed in the same way, and the wall itself too. This ensures, firstly, a strong “wall-bath” connection, and secondly, the adhesive base creates a seal of the seams. Ideally, for good adhesion of the mortar with bricks, it is necessary to give the masonry time to stand for at least a day.

• A siphon with overflow is mounted on a bath that has not yet been installed. To do this, turn the bowl on its side and equip the drain hole for the siphon with rubber sealed gaskets that prevent water from leaking. In order not to have to “turn” the container again soon, it is better to immediately take care of a high-quality reliable siphon. The sewer pipe with a drain must necessarily be below the outlet of the siphon.
• A bathtub is installed on the prepared surface at the level laid on the bottom, horizontally without a slope. But the outer edge is literally half a centimeter higher than the inner one (so that there is no spillage of water over the edge onto the floor).
• Proper installation of a cast-iron bath on bricks involves connecting the drain to the sewer hose in two ways: a strong and more reliable rigid connection: used plastic pipe and an elbow with an angle of 45° and 90°, a flexible and movable compensating plastic corrugation is connected hermetically with a sealant to the sewer inlet.

Free supply of hot and cold water pipes and drainage systems should be ensured. It is important to immediately make sure that the installation is correct. To do this, the container is filled with water and the drain opens. If the liquid does not leave immediately, with delays, then there is a distortion.

• One more nuance. Before installing the bath, the distance from its rear end to the wall is calculated. If an excess area is expected, it must also be bricked. As an alternative - a support box under the bowl, just below the rim.

Brick side for a steel bath

Installation technology different baths broadly the same. Undoubted advantage steel sanitary containers - their low weight (about 30 kg) - is one of the reasons for the instability.

The steel bath can be installed on metal profiles, and then the structure is completed with brickwork

Installation work is carried out even before the walls are tiled. Bricks under the bath before installation are pre-pasted with a rolled plastic gerlen, and the walls are treated with a moisture-proof composition. A layer of fabric at its base serves as a separating element (compensator) between the cement mortar and the body, changing its geometric parameters and shape depending on heating or cooling with water. For better adhesion and elimination of air zones between surfaces, tile adhesive is applied to the layer.

Bath Screen Shaping

A “shirt” made of the same guerlain, in which the entire iron bath is completely packed, not only increases strength, but also serves as an excellent sound insulator, drowning out the noise of falling water.

Between the red brick columns, with a bathtub filled with water, polyurethane foam is blown from below. As the foam expands as it solidifies, it can lift the light container off the racks. The weight of the water keeps the tub on the bricks. Foam heat insulator is also a good sound absorber. Finishing work is carried out with the provided hatches for the revision of plumbing units.

It is important to note that a steel sanitary ware needs to be grounded. The best way to do this is to use an industrial tested grounding device.

The opportunity to do something with your own hands raises self-esteem and allows you to acquire various skills. One of them may be the installation of an acrylic bath. For these purposes, you can not involve specialists, because it has a small mass, which allows you to cope on your own. There are certain nuances in the performance of work. They will be discussed in the article.

Bath selection

Although cast-iron bathtubs do not lose their relevance, acrylic bathtubs account for more purchases. This is due to certain advantages of this design:

• light weight;
• comparative ease of installation;
• thermal inertia;
• pleasant tactile sensations;
• pleasant appearance;
• long service life;
• sufficient strength;
• ease of maintenance.

If necessary, an acrylic bathtub can be easily raised to the desired floor. Installation of an acrylic bathtub is easier in the sense that no assistants are required when carrying it. Due to the special structure, the composite material has low thermal conductivity, so stepping into a cold bath is not as uncomfortable as it is for a cast-iron or steel structure.

The appearance is snow-white, and the surface itself is smooth. The service life of such a bath can exceed 15 years. Maintenance does not require specific detergents. Among the shortcomings, one can single out the fragility of cheap models that do not have reinforcement. It is necessary to monitor the temperature regime of the structure so as not to melt it.

Before you go to the store for your cherished bathroom, you need to make accurate measurements of the space where it will be located. It is necessary to make small gaps that will allow installation, even if the walls have certain irregularities. It is important to get to know the manufacturers who produce high-quality plumbing.

Do not pay attention to cheap options. An immediate benefit may result in the need to replace the bath after a short period of operation. It is worth paying attention only to bathtubs that are reinforced with fiberglass. In this case, the wall thickness of the structure must be at least 5 mm.

The cut shows the number of layers of reinforcement. There must be several. If there are only two or one of them, then you should not buy such a bath. The absence of the required number of reinforcing layers threatens with instability to mechanical loads. This applies not only to the weight of the user, but also to temperature changes from hot water.

It would be nice to feel the surface of the bath, which is planned for purchase. It should be smooth, without any flaws. A pungent smell should alert you, it may mean that they were used in the production harmful additives. Pure acrylic has no pungent odors. Well, if the kit comes with all the necessary body kit. The manufacturer selects exactly what is best suited for their baths.

Mounting options

Installation of the product can be done in several ways. It is worth choosing the one that best suits specific conditions. Methods can be divided into:

• factory frame;
• legs;
• solid pallet;
• combined method.

As you can see, certain methods will require the delivery of additional building material and consumables that will be needed during installation.

factory frame

Before the release of products, the manufacturer makes certain calculations. This applies not only to the bath itself, but also to the support for it. That is why we can consider mounting on the factory frame the highest quality and safe method. It is worth saying that only expensive bathtubs have good frames.

For the rest, you will have to use a different method or build your own frame. Usually the product is delivered in the original carton box. It will be needed as a base. All frame components are checked according to the complete instructions. The box is laid out in a convenient place and the acrylic bathtub is turned over onto it.

Note! There is a protective stretch film on the bathtub. Do not remove it until the installation is complete.

The assembly of the factory frame should not cause difficulties, since each element already has holes and there is a diagram. The base is collected in a separate area. As soon as these works are completed, you can proceed to fixing the frame on the bath. To do this, it must be placed in the middle. From the bottom of the sides of the bath there are special grooves into which metal legs from the frame. A long hairpin is threaded through the hole on the edge of the bathtub frame. It must be fixed in the groove that is on the bath. The stud is also fixed with a nut and a control nut to the frame itself. To make the surface of contact with the floor larger, a plastic leg is screwed onto the lower part of the stud.

In addition to the side long legs, there may be short ones that are mounted under the bottom. They must be placed in the appropriate places of the frame and fixed with nuts. After that, the bath turns over and is installed in its place. A bubble level is placed on the side and the height of the legs is adjusted. The latter will also depend on which decorative screen is applied.

When the position is adjusted, it is necessary to turn the bath over again and assemble the siphon. If this is a complete element, then its installation on the bath will not cause any particular difficulties. Otherwise, you will have to buy separately the most suitable one. When screwing in the bolts, it is important not to overdo it so as not to damage the siphon and the bath.

The siphon consists of two parts. One of them is designed to collect water from the main drain, and the second is mounted on the overflow hole. Usually they are connected to each other by means of a plastic adapter. A flexible hose goes to the overflow hole, so the entire structure must be assembled before installation. A sealing gum is installed on the elements for holes in a special groove, the same is placed in the bathroom. Metal plates are mounted on top that close the holes.

Since acrylic bathtubs are light and quite easy to tip over, manufacturers provide for additional fastening of the frame to the wall with hooks. Therefore, after assembling the frame and adjusting the position of the bath, it is necessary to mark the wall and use a perforator to install the hooks in their place. The edge of the bath is put on the supporting elements to prevent tipping. After that, the siphon can be connected flexible hose with a sewer hole.

The final step in installing the bathtub on the factory frame is the installation of a decorative screen. The factory version is most often made of plastic. The screen is fixed to the bath with special clips, which are also supplied in the kit. The clips are fixed in place and the screen simply snaps onto them.

Before you fix the screen on the bath, you need to connect drain hose into the sewer hole. Visually, the process of installing an acrylic bath can be seen in the video below.

Brick pallet

This mounting method can be used when there is a need to provide a more secure fixation than with a factory frame. In addition, some customers choose to finish the screen with tiles, which is ideal in the case of a brick base. The first step is to try on the structure at the place where the bath will be located. This is done to mark the drain hole. It is simply outlined with a marker. It is also worth circling the outline of the bathroom to make it easier to navigate when laying bricks.

Next, the support is laid under the bottom of the bath. For these purposes, brick is also used. It is necessary to choose the height so that the highest point of the side does not exceed the distance to the floor of 60 cm. The bricks are laid on a cement-sand mortar. The site is laid taking into account the horizontal level. If the bathtub is installed directly on a brick, then it is easy to damage it by pushing it on bumps. To prevent this from happening, you need a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 10 mm. The plywood is attached to the bricks with a uniform layer of mounting foam. The side walls are laid out taking into account the height of the bath. They are also mounted trimming moisture-resistant plywood by means of foam.

Now you need to fill the bathtub with water in order to set it correctly. To do this, the drain hole is tightly closed. A level is laid on the side and the bathtub is leveled in a horizontal plane. This must be done before the foam polymerizes. Differences can be leveled using wooden supports. Later, the foam will fill the resulting voids. Once the foam has set, the tub can be removed. To keep the bathtub in place better, some craftsmen make a groove in the wall where one edge is recessed. A groove is made with a perforator and a chisel. It is easier to mark its borders with a grinder.

Note! The final stage of the installation is the assembly of the siphon and the installation of the bath in place, after which the screen is mounted.

supports

Bath supports can be made from bricks or carved from wood. Both methods are acceptable for acrylic bathtubs. If the stands are wooden, then it is better to use larch wood, it is resistant to moisture. Additionally, it must be treated with yacht varnish. Depending on the length of the tub, you may need three supports instead of two at the edges. The bath is tried on in its place and the approximate location of the supports is marked. It must be installed before the bend on the tub. So the bath will be easier to fix.

getting ready cement mortar and the bricks are laid out according to the level in their place. The front support usually has a lower height than the rear. This is due to the need to provide a level difference for the drain of liquid from the bath. The difference in the height of the bath supports is 2 cm, but may differ for different models. After the bath supports are laid out, they need to be given time to gain strength. For ease of installation of the bath on the supports, it is necessary to make a semicircular cut with a grinder. Its radius must be equal to the radius of the bath. The bathtub is applied in its place and the final fit is carried out.

So that the structure does not lie on bare brick, a plywood lining is made under the bath. It is fixed on the brick with foam. The latter is also used to eliminate the gaps that remain between the supports and the plane of the bath. A siphon is mounted in place and it is connected to the sewer.

Combined method

In some cases, a combined bath installation method is used. It consists not only in the use of a factory frame for the bath, but also brick supports in the form of a frame around the perimeter. This method will be useful in the case when there is no desire to lay out the stand inside the brick frame. In this case, the factory frame is assembled, it is leveled and the bathtub is installed in place. After that, brick marking is done and masonry is performed. When everything is ready, the bath is put in its place and tiling is performed.

Acrylic bathtubs offered in retail chains from various manufacturers have one significant drawback - the dependence of the service life on the installation method. The material of the bathtub has a fairly pronounced plasticity, "adapts" to the shape of the installation site. Incorrectly mounted legs or a frame can aggravate the situation, and the universal frame used for an acrylic bathtub must be accurately calculated to evenly distribute the load.

So do you need a frame?

Some manufacturers, including well-known in the market trademark Ravak, have a different attitude to the installation of a bathtub on a specially made frame or frame, believing that for correct installation The included legs are sufficient. Some manufacturers provide the consumer with a kit that includes a special acrylic bathtub. metal carcass, with all accessories for installation.

Different methods of manufacturing acrylic products with the use of additional polymers greatly affect the quality characteristics and strength. Cast acrylic products with an acrylic layer thickness of about 5 mm and an additional reinforcing layer are more durable and can withstand the load of water and a person standing in the bath on the legs that come with the kit.

Important: In some cases, cheaper models with a thin layer of acrylic, about 0.5 mm, applied to a substrate of ABS plastic or polyurethane, can simply crack from uneven loading with all the ensuing consequences. Multiple plastic deformation of the sides leads to a violation of the tightness of the joints of the bath and the adjacent wall cladding, the penetration of moisture into the closed space and the formation of pathogenic microorganisms.

To ensure safe operation, it will be preferable to install an acrylic bath on a frame, which is confirmed by numerous training videos.

Types of frames and stands for acrylic bath

Depending on the quality of the product, the composition of the installation kit, there are several ways to install an acrylic bath:

• A manufacturer-supplied acrylic bathtub pedestal whose profile conforms to the shape of the product. Parts of the profile of the required length are assembled into a single structure, on which the legs included in the kit are attached. The load on the bottom of the bath is evenly distributed on a rigid flat frame, however, the sides of the bath remain not fixed and are held only due to the strength of the material;
• A more complex acrylic bathtub stand is a fairly rigid spatial structure with installed legs and support elements for the sides of the bath, made of galvanized "p"-shaped metal profile. This design is more reliable in operation and not much more difficult to install;
• Spatial frame - a frame for a corner acrylic bathtub, which is used to complete products designed for two people and equipped with hydromassage. Made from a hollow square section, such a frame has high strength, several points of support on the floor and evenly distributes the load on various parts of the bottom and sides of the bath;
• In the absence of a factory installation kit, the frame can be made independently or a brick stand is used, folded on a cement-sand mortar and exactly repeating the bottom of the installed acrylic bath.

Installing an acrylic bath on a frame

We will assume that a caring manufacturer has completed his acrylic product with an installation frame and consider the process of assembling it with the subsequent installation of a bathtub. Assembling the frame for an acrylic bathtub is not difficult and can be done by hand.

• We take out the installation kit from the package, to which it is attached. detailed instructions. We lay out the frame for the acrylic bath in the required sequence, prepare the necessary fasteners and proceed to assembly. The more in the bathroom curved surfaces, the more difficult the frame is and the harder it will be to assemble and install it in place. Before assembling the frame of an acrylic bath, you need to make sure that there are or are no attachment points to the wall and do not forget to install the necessary fasteners so as not to do the work twice;
• We assemble the frame according to the instructions and install it in place. If it is necessary to fix the bath bowl on the frame with the attached fasteners, we prepare the attachment points by putting the assembled frame on the inverted bowl. Using a drill with a device that limits the depth of drilling, we prepare holes of the diameter indicated in the instructions and pre-screw the screws by half their length.

Important! In no case should the drilling depth limiters be neglected. This is fraught with failure of the bath even before the start of operation.

• Drilling holes is a must to prevent possible cracking of the acrylic when the fastener is screwed in. After this operation, the frame of the acrylic bath is installed in place, its position is checked using the building level and, if necessary, it is fixed to the wall;
• Following the instructions, we install the acrylic bowl on the assembled frame and fix it in the places prepared in advance, using the fasteners included in the kit. The use of non-standard, longer or shorter fasteners is strictly prohibited in order to avoid breakage of the structure or damage to the bottom of the bath;
• After completing these operations, the acrylic bathtub on the frame is ready for the installation of the mixer and siphon and for further safe operation. After installing the equipment vertical part close with a decorative shield included in the kit. In the absence of a shield, you can make it yourself from plastic or drywall covered with mosaics or ceramic tiles.

For your information: The frame for an acrylic bathtub is made by the manufacturer individually for each model, and only in exceptional cases can a universal frame for your bathtub be used for a whole series of similar products that differ slightly from each other.

If the frame is not included

If there is no factory frame in the kit, you must make it yourself or install the bath on a brick stand. A home-made stand for an acrylic bath is made of two rows of ordinary brick in the form of a rectangle divided by partitions into two or three sections. Partitions serve as an additional support for the bottom of the acrylic bowl and even distribution of the load. While the masonry is gaining the necessary strength, a suspended reinforced frame for an acrylic bath is installed, on which the sides will rest and be attached decorative elements covering the front of the equipment. We calculate the frame mounting height by measuring the distance from the supporting surface of the bathtub side to the bottom plus 30 - 35 mm.

After the brickwork has dried, we prepare a portion of the mortar to be applied to the brick box for the acrylic bath with a layer of 50 mm evenly over the entire surface of the masonry. After that, carefully lower the bowl onto the solution and seat it in place until the sides come into contact with the frame. After the solution has dried, the bath can be connected to engineering networks and operate without restrictions.

Conclusion

Even sophisticated equipment for relaxation with hydromassage, installed on a frame or on a homemade box, it can withstand extreme loads without damage, and small additional costs will ensure long-term safe operation.