Diy water well: hand drilling technology. How to make a well with your own hands without complicated equipment How to pierce a well on your own for water

Any estate, be it country cottage or private house must be provided with water. Without life-giving moisture, they cannot grow, delighting the eye with exuberant flowering, and none of them can fully bear fruit. cultivated plants... A well for water with your own hands, despite the seeming grandeur of the process, is a very real possibility of water extraction, which can be done independently without the use of heavy drilling equipment. There are several methods of drilling that are quite simple to perform and do not involve the use of expensive equipment and significant efforts.

Water extraction can be carried out using different technologies. The main types of water wells used for the extraction of life-giving moisture:

• Arrangement of a well, which, in the presence of a good spring, fills up quickly and, being an excellent water storage, can hold up to 2 cubic meters of water;
• Filter well on sand, which is a pipe d = 100 mm, submerged with a screw to a depth of 20-30 meters. At the deepened end of the pipe, a stainless mesh is fixed, which acts as a filter, being immersed in the sand of a coarse fraction. The well depth is 10-50 meters, the service life is 5-15 years.
• A filterless artesian well used to extract water from porous limestone rock formations. The well depth is 20-100 meters, the service life is about 50 years.

The exact depth of the water well cannot be determined in advance. This will be roughly the same depth as a similar well drilled in adjacent areas, or a nearby well. Since deviations are possible due to the uneven occurrence of the soil layers, the casing should be purchased based on the parameters of the water supply sources already equipped at the site, but with a slight adjustment.

The design of the water well is a kind of narrow well

The service life of wells directly depends on the intensity of use: the more often you use the structure, the longer it will last

Drilling a well by hand

To carry out the work, the drill itself, a drill tower, a winch, rods and casing pipes are required. A drill tower is necessary when digging a deep hole, with the help of this structure, a drill with rods is immersed and lifted.

The easiest way to drill a water well is rotary, which is carried out by rotating the drill

While drilling shallow wells the drill string can be removed manually, without the need for a tower at all. Drill rods can be made of pipes, products are connected using keys or threads. The lowest bar is additionally equipped with a drill.

Cutting bits are made from 3mm sheet steel... When sharpening the edges of the nozzles, it should be taken into account that when the drill mechanism rotates, they must cut into the soil clockwise.

The drilling technology, familiar to most homeowners, is applicable to the installation of a well under water.

The tower is installed above the drilling site, its height should exceed the height of the drill rod in order to facilitate the extraction of the rod when lifting. Then a guide recess for the drill is dug onto two bayonets of the shovel. The first turns of rotation of the drill can be performed by one person, but as the pipe sinks, additional help will be required. If the drill does not come out the first time, turn it counterclockwise and try again.

As the drill deepens, the rotation of the pipe becomes more difficult. Softening the soil with water will help to facilitate the work. As the drill moves down, every half meter, the drill structure should be brought to the surface and freed from the soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. At the stage when the tool handle is level with the ground, the structure is built up with an additional knee.

Since lifting and cleaning the drill takes a significant part of the time, you should maximize the capabilities of the structure, capturing and extracting as much of the soil layer as possible to the surface.

When working on loose soils, it is necessary to additionally install casing pipes in the well, which prevent the soil from shedding from the walls of the hole and blocking the well.

Drilling continues until it enters the aquifer, which is easily identified by the condition of the excavated land. Passing the aquifer, the drill sinks even deeper until it reaches the next aquifer, the water-resistant layer. Submersion to the level of the water-resistant layer will ensure the maximum flow of water into the well. It is important to note that manual drilling is applicable only for submersion to the first aquifer, the depth of which does not exceed 10-20 meters.

To pump out dirty water, you can use a hand pump or a pump submersible type... After two or three buckets of dirty water, the aquifer is flushed out and clean water usually appears. If this does not happen, the well should be buried another 1-2 meters.

You can also use a manual drilling method based on the use of a conventional drill and a hydraulic pump:

Learn more about hand drilling.

Rock drill technology

The essence of this method, how to make a well for water with your own hands, is that the rock is broken with the help of a driven glass - a heavy tool falling from the height of an equipped tower.

To carry out the work, a home-made drilling rig is needed, as well as tools for using the percussion-rope method and extracting soil from the well.

The well tower, which looks like an ordinary tripod, can be made of both steel pipes and ordinary wooden logs. The dimensions of the structure should be proportional to the dimensions of the downhole tool.

The optimal ratio is the height of the derrick, which exceeds the length of the downhole nozzle by one and a half meters.

The process consists in alternately lowering the driving nozzle, which breaks and captures the rock, and lifting to the surface with a captured blade drilling tool.

To equip the drilling rig, you can use a steel pipe, the end of which is equipped with a cutting device. Cutting edge reminiscent of outward appearance half a turn of the auger, will contact directly with the bottom. Half a meter from the edge, a hole must be made in the steel pipe through which the extracted soil can be extracted, emptying the drill bit. A cable is attached to the top of the glass, with the help of which the glass will be lowered and its contents removed to the surface. The glass should be freed from the ground as the structure is deepened for every half meter.

Here is a video example of conducting exploration drilling in this way:

Nuances of installing casing pipes

A do-it-yourself well dug under water requires additional casing, which can be made both from a solid asbestos-cement pipe, and from separate cuts of asbestos pipes. When working with cuts Special attention given an equal diameter of pipes in order to ensure subsequent unhindered immersion of the entire structure. Each pipe link is kept from slipping and secured with staples, which are then hidden under strips of of stainless steel.

A well for water with your own hands can also be "cased" with steel or plastic pipes

"Upsetting" of the pipe is required:

• to prevent wall shattering during drilling;
• to prevent well clogging during operation;
• to cover the upper aquifers with poor water.

A pipe with a filter made of a fine mesh that does not pass a grain of sand and provides water filtration is lowered to the bottom of the well. The pipe lowered to the required depth is secured with a clamp. This will prevent spontaneous subsidence.

With a competent arrangement of a well for water, the above-ground part of the structure is covered by a caisson - a head that protects the source from pollution.

The head is a tank with a closing hatch with a hole diameter allowing easy access to the water well

Over time, the effect of a slight "squeezing" of the pipe out of the soil may be observed. The natural process of spontaneous lifting of the pipe to the surface of the soil does not require additional burial measures.

Well construction video example

Everyone knows the benefits autonomous water supply in private homes, however, many refuse such options due to their high cost. A do-it-yourself well under water can be carried out using several technologies, but before starting the work process, we propose to deal with the types of sources and determine which of them will ideally fit into your conditions and depend on financial and other possibilities.

All sources for autonomous water supply are considered economical, since they do not require waste in the process of use, however, if you do not do the installation yourself, you will have to pay a lot of money for creating sources of qualified labor.

Drilling wells under water with your own hands is not a simple process, therefore, first, we will consider the existing types of well structures.

1. An artesian well is an ideal solution for a stable and harmless water supply at home. The depth of such an installation can reach up to 200 meters, depending on its purpose. For the use of water on the farm, 50 meters is enough. The advantages of such a source are considered to be the absence of the need to additionally purify the water, and also there is no water in the composition of the water. a large number gland.
2. Abyssinian well-needle - used in difficult soil conditions or in the absence of the need for perfectly clean water. If this option is used as the main source of water supply to the house, additional filtration is required.
3. Sand hole. Its depth reaches 30 meters, drilling is carried out by auger method. Usually, such water supply is carried out for summer cottages, but even for such cases, it is recommended to install a filter at a depth where coarse sand is found. This will save the well from breaking.

Important! Before making a well, you should decide which drilling rig will perform this process. Usually rotary, screw and percussion rope equipment is used.

How to drill a well with your own hands: stages of work

Work on the manufacture of wells for domestic water supply is divided into several main stages:

Attention! A filter pipe should be placed at the bottom of the well; it should be equipped with a metal mesh to retain foreign particles.

• To swing the source, it is required to install a centrifugal pump, after placing its pipe to the entire depth of the well. It is advisable to build a stand for the pump, and connect an outlet pipe on the back of it, which will power the whole house;
• then we are preparing trenches for pipelines, when everything is done, we lay them at the same level so as not to create a head failure. At the end, we put pipes into the house, and from there we branch structures into the required rooms. At this stage, the installation of the well and the water supply to the house with your own hands is considered complete.

Please note that only with proper arrangement, taking into account all the characteristics, an autonomous source will provide good clean water for use.

Types of water well drilling

Of all the options used for drilling wells in the private sector, there are combined drilling, support drilling, hydraulic drilling, core drilling, shot and rotary drilling. Each of the proposed types has its own characteristics and is used for specific conditions.

Combined drilling

In this method, it is intended to use various suitable techniques in turn or in combination. This method is recognized as more rational as it is suitable for various geological conditions. Combined drilling is often used in places where the earth is rich in minerals and minerals.

Pilot drilling

Often this type of drilling is used for the purpose of studying geological structure layers of the earth. Thanks to the creation of wells using the support technology, it is possible to achieve a good result and durability of the water source, in difficult soil conditions.

This technique involves drilling a source using the maximum pressure of a special fluid. Most often, this method is used by professional drillers. However, it is not always possible to guess whether this method is suitable for specific conditions. To avoid complications, it is important to prepare more liquid in advance, as some layers of the soil absorb water too quickly.

Core drilling

It is a rotational technique. When creating a well by rotation, soil rocks do not lose their structure and during the operation of the source, they do not crumble. Well of this type is being built by special drilling rigs at the same time. Such wells are often used for mining.

Shot drilling

It is rotary drilling using shot. Usually, such a device is used in conditions of difficult soil passability. To clean the well from foreign material, a special cleaning fluid is used.

Rotary method

The drilling option is designed for industrial wells. For home use they are used quite rarely in cases where the use of other types is unacceptable.

Choosing a season for installing a water well

Much depends on the choice of the season, when it is better to carry out the installation of the well, and first of all the cost of the procedure, of course, if you do not practice independent arrangement of an autonomous water supply source. Each season has its own advantages of well installation:

Attention! At each time, you can choose a suitable period for installing a water supply source, depending on weather conditions.

How to clean up a well without involving a pro?

Sooner or later, any well, even a well-made well, requires cleaning, since pipelines are often silted up and corroded. Today, there are three techniques that are used to purify the source without the help of specialists or the person working on this project. For home wells, compression, pumping and dry cleaning are used.

The first option of cleaning is carried out at the initial stage, immediately after the depth of the well is finally prepared for further installation. This will require a special pipe with a smaller diameter than the pipe in the well. It is lowered into the borehole, a vacuum tip is put on top, to which the compressor hose is connected. The structure is securely fixed, and only then the compression pump is connected to the network. All dirty water should exit the well along the gap between the two pipes. If this approach does not give results, we resort to the following method.

The pumping method is considered to be very accurate. For this purpose, submersible pumps of sufficient power are used. Ideally, if such a device is designed to pump out contaminated water and at the same time sucks in sand and foreign particles up to 5 mm in diameter.

Important! Using the pumping option for cleaning wells, you will achieve maximum cleaning of the well, while removing silt, dirt and crumbling soil particles.

The chemical method is the purification of springs by treating water with a battery liquid. To do this, it is enough to pour it directly into the wellhead. However, it should be noted that enough a long period it will not be possible to use water from the source for domestic purposes, and before using it, it is imperative to conduct an examination and prove the safe composition of the water.

Common mistakes and tips for correcting them when installing a water well

Unfortunately, all professionals sometimes make mistakes, and when drilling wells, they can lead to consequences, including a malfunction of the source.

Try not to trust the construction of an autonomous water supply to beginners, and with self-installation, familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances.

Drilling a well for water is difficult and difficult, but interesting and fascinating work... And, today, the most affordable way to establish an independent water supply: at the current cost of drinking water expenses for self-drilling, equipment and well arrangement are repaid in less than a year. Unless, of course, you do not carry the barrel to the river in a wheelbarrow, risking hard bedding with something that will make the doctors' eyes round above the masks.

The land and the water in it are complex natural system... So step by step instructions and step-by-step guides on drilling business it makes no sense to give: all the same, in the depths of something yes it will turn out to be no way. However, miners have long since learned to overcome almost any surprises. underworld... And in this article, on the basis of this experience, the information necessary for a novice driller is given in order for, if not the first, then the second well to give water in the right amount of good quality with his own hands.

Where to drill?

The general scheme of the formation of aquifers in nature is shown in Fig. The Verkhovodka feeds mainly on precipitation, lies within about 0-10 m. The upstream waters can be drinkable without deep processing (boiling, filtration through shungite) only in some cases and subject to regular checking of samples by the sanitary authorities. Then, and for technical purposes, the top water is taken with a well; well debit in such conditions will be small and very unstable.

A well for water is drilled independently into interstratal waters; highlighted in red in Fig. Artesian well that gives water best quality for a very long time, it is impossible to drill on your own, even if you have a detailed geological map of the area: the depth, as a rule, is more than 50 m and only in exceptional cases the layer rises to 30 m. criminal liability, prohibited - it is a valuable natural resource.

Most often, it is possible to drill a well on our own into a free-flow formation.- sand soaked in water on a clay bed. Such wells are called sand wells, although the unconfined aquifer can be gravelly, pebble, etc. Unconfined waters occur approximately 5-20 m from the surface. Water from them is most often drinking, but only according to the results of the check and after the swinging of the well, see below. The debit is small, 2 cubic meters. m / day is considered excellent, and fluctuates somewhat throughout the year. Sand filtration is mandatory, which complicates well design and operation, see below. The lack of pressure increases the requirements for the pump and the entire water supply.

Confined strata lie deeper, in the range of about 7-50 m. The aquifer in this case is a dense water-resistant fractured rocks - loam, limestone - or loose, gravel-pebble deposits. The best quality water is obtained from limestone, and such wells last longer. Therefore, water supply wells from pressure layers are called limestone wells. The self-head in the reservoir can raise water almost to the surface, which greatly simplifies the arrangement of the well and the entire water supply system. The debit is large, up to 5 cubic meters. m / day, and stable. A sand filter is often not needed. As a rule, the first water sample is analyzed with a bang.

Note: but how to find out which layer is available and available in a given place? The methods for finding water for drilling a well are generally the same as for. In the Central Zone of the Russian Federation, free-flow water can almost always be found within the first 20 meters of depth.

Important circumstances

First: massive uncontrolled intake of free-flow water can lead to the so-called. soil suffusion, as a result of which its failures occur suddenly and unpredictably, see fig.

Second: critical depth self drilling on flat terrain in the Russian Federation it is 20 m. Deeper - the cost of a custom-made turnkey well turns out to be less than the direct and indirect costs of samobur. In addition, the probability of failure is close to 100%.

Third: the life of a well is highly dependent on the regularity of water intake from it. If you take a little water as it is consumed, then a well for sand will last about 15 years, and for limestone up to 50 years or more. If you periodically pump out everything at once or, conversely, take it sporadically, then the well will dry out in 3-7 years. Repair and re-swinging of a well is so complicated and expensive that it is easier to drill a new one. If this circumstance surprises you, keep in mind that it is not a pipe in the ground that is being repaired, but an aquifer.

Based on this, one can already advise: if you find unpressurized water no deeper than 12-15 m, do not rush to rejoice, it is better to drill as much as possible in order to reach the limestone. And it is best not to be lazy and make exploratory drilling with a needle-hole, see below. It is possible to make a well-needle literally over the weekend, no complicated and expensive equipment is required. And it can also be a temporary source of water supply until you decide on time, money, etc. with a permanent one.

Note: a well-needle for water is called (for more details, see the link). You can punch it literally from the basement of the house, as in the video below:

Video: Abyssinian well in the house

Well or well?

The fact that digging a well is immeasurably more difficult, difficult and dangerous work than drilling a well is known, as well as the fact that a properly equipped well is repairable. But there is also a fundamental difference between them. They draw water from the well, how much the land will give, i.e. how much of the layer will flow. And the action of the well is similar to the selection of blood from the vein of the donor. That is why the service life of wells is limited and they are capable of catastrophically changing the geology of the area. The well, on the other hand, is capable of providing water for decades and centuries, and pierced in rocky ground for millennia, without affecting the local ecology and geology in any way. Therefore, private wells are drilled for water, meaning in the future either to build a collective artesian water supply system (artesian wells are durable and environmentally friendly), or, mustering the courage and means, to dig a well. At the same time, the water supply system of the house is being built thoroughly, because in general, if only there was a pressure, except for some nuances, see below. And the abandoned well is plugged with concrete and the earth around it is returned to the farm.

Well types

A borehole is a long, narrow cavity in rock- trunk. When drilling, a drilling tool (drill string or simply a drill) is lowered into the borehole on a rigid assembly rod made of pipes (drill string or drill rod) or a cable. A pipe or several concentric pipes is placed in the shaft - casing (case pipe, case string) - protecting the walls of the shaft from collapse and holding the pressure of the rock. The casing can sit tightly in the borehole or with some gap - the annular space; it is filled with backfill or clay ( clay castle) or poured with concrete. The lower end of the wellbore can be open, plugged, or end with a stepped narrowing - the bottom. At the bottom or at the bottom of a production well for liquid minerals, an intake device is made. Top part casing is called the wellhead. Around the head or in it, a set of devices is placed that make up the well arrangement. Of the many well designs, most of the types shown in Fig. a more detailed diagram of a well with casing is shown in the same place, pos. 5.

1 - needle borehole. Drill rod, casing and drill string are one whole; the drill remains in the ground. They pass the borehole-needle by the percussion method, see below. A pile driver, a set of drilling tools, etc., equipment for drilling wells with a separate casing for the needle well is not required, see fig. on right. The penetration rate reaches 2-3 m / h, and the maximum depth achieved in this way is about 45 m. Needle boreholes are used for the construction of Abyssinian wells, especially in the country. The debit of the well-needle is small, but in summer time stable enough. Its service life does not depend on the intensity and regularity of water intake, but it is unpredictable: there are Abyssinian wells that have been supplying water for over 100 years, but can dry up in six months. The well-needle cannot be repaired, it can only be passed in not very dense and homogeneous soils. The maximum diameter of the drill rod when drilling without a pile driver is up to 120 mm, which is enough for a submersible pump with a caliber of 86 mm.

Note: when drilling an exploratory needle well, it is better to do with a simple filter, on the left in Fig.

2 - imperfect well. It seems to be hanging in the layer. It does not require a fine knowledge of geology and drilling skills, but the debit is less and the water quality is worse than the maximum possible for a given formation. The water quality can be maximized if the well below is plugged. In addition, perhaps the so-called. pulling the drilling tool and casing inward. "Self-piercing" wells are most often imperfect; most of further material concerns them. Wells are drilled imperfectly in thick aquifers, because when deepening into the reservoir already by 1.5-2 m, the debit stabilizes and almost does not grow deeper.

3 - perfect well. The casing rests on the top of the underlying water-resistant layer. The debit and water quality are maximum, but to drill a perfect well, accurate knowledge of local geology and the experience of a driller are required, otherwise, firstly, the casing can be pulled into the underlying formation if it is plastic. Secondly, you can pierce the litter while drilling, and the water will go down; this is especially true in dry areas with thin layers. Thirdly, only 1 incorrectly drilled perfect well can cause serious damage to the local ecology.

4 - well with a bottom hole. It can be both perfect and imperfect. Bottom hole facilitates maintenance of the well and makes it somewhat maintainable, but experienced drillers should drill downhole according to local geology.

Note: in some sources, the bottom of a well is called a sump. This is also not true in German, the bottom of a well and the sump of a well are completely different things.

Drilling methods

You can drill wells yourself in the following ways:

1. Rotary, or rotary - the drill rotates, biting into the rock;
2. Percussion - they beat on the drill rod, deepening the drill string into the rock, this is how the needle-holes are drilled;
3. Impact-rotary - the rod with the drill is raised several times and lowered with force, loosening the rock, and then rotated, taking it into the cavity of the shell, see below;
4. Rope-percussion - a special drill is raised and lowered on a rope, taking away the rock with it.

All of these methods are related to dry drilling. During hydrodrilling, the working process takes place in a layer of water or a special drilling fluid, which increases the pliability of the rock. Hydro drilling is not environmentally friendly and requires expensive special equipment and high water consumption. In amateur conditions, it is used in exceptional cases, in an extremely simplified and limited form, see below.

Dry drilling, except for percussion drilling without casing, is only intermittent, i.e. the drill has to be lowered into the barrel, then removed from it in order to select the rock from the drill. In professional hydrodrilling, the crushed rock is carried out by the used drilling fluid, but an amateur needs to know for sure: it is impossible to go through the wellbore to a depth that is greater than the length of the working part of the tool in 1 drilling cycle. Even if you drill with a screw (see below), you need to lift it and shake out the rock from the turns after a maximum of 1-1.5 m of penetration, otherwise the expensive tool will have to be given to the ground.

Casing installation

The attentive reader may already have a question: how is the casing inserted into the barrel? Or, how do you raise / lower the drill, which, in theory, should be wider than it? In professional drilling - in different ways. The oldest is illustrated in Fig. right: the axis of rotation of the tool is displaced relative to its longitudinal axis (circled in red), and the cutting part is made asymmetrical. The borax neck is made conical. All this, of course, is carefully calculated. Then, in operation, the drill describes a circle that extends beyond the casing, and when it rises, its neck slides along its edge and the drill slides into the pipe. This requires a powerful, accurate drill string drive and reliable centering in the casing. As it deepens, the casing is built up from above. Complex special equipment is not available to amateurs, therefore, they can install casing pipes in the following ways:

• Drill "naked", without casing, the borehole to the full depth with a drill larger than the casing pipe diameter, and then lower the casing pipes into it. To prevent the entire string from dropping down, they use 2 drill collars: one is used to hold the pipe that has already gone into the well, see Fig. on the right, and the second is installed on a new one before removing the first. Only then is the column upset into the trunk, if it does not go on its own. This method is often used by amateurs on sufficiently dense, adhesive (sticky) and cohesive (not loose) soils to a depth of 10 m, but how many wells collapsed, how many drills and casing were lost - there are no statistics.
• The drill is taken of a smaller diameter, and the lower casing is made with diverging sharpened teeth (crown) or equipped with a cutting skirt. Having been bored for 1 cycle, the drill is filled, and the pipe is forcibly upset; a crown or skirt will cut off excess soil. This method slows down drilling, because before starting a new cycle, you need to select the crumbling soil with a thief (see below), but more reliably, it facilitates gravel backfilling of the annulus and allows you to use an external sand filter, see below.

Drilling tool

Now let's see what kind of drill what kind of soil and in what way you need to drill, see fig. on right:

The cutting edges of all drills are made of hardened steel. Drawings of a homemade drill-glass, an analogue of a spoon drill (the cutting blades are set with a propeller at an angle of 3-10 degrees) and a diagram of the thief are shown on the next page. rice. on right. Outside diameters of all these drills can be changed depending on the borehole size.

How are they drilled?

Mobile drilling rigs that allow you to drill directly "from the ground", such as the one in Fig. left,

alas, they are not rented out: their management requires professional training and the very fact of ownership, albeit temporary, requires a license for drilling operations. Therefore, we will have to start in the old fashioned way, in a mustache - with a homemade copra, unless a woman's well-needle is beating.

Koper

The simplest pile driver is a tripod made of logs or steel pipes in the form of an equilateral trihedral pyramid - a tetrahedron, pos. 1 in fig. below. This design is very strong and rigid with minimal material consumption. The height of the tetrahedron is 0.8165 of the length of its edge, i.e. from ordinary 6-m logs, taking into account the deepening of the legs of the copra into the ground, a tripod with a height of about 4.5 m will turn out, which will allow the use of casing elbows up to 3 m long. In fact, the height of the copra is taken 1.2-1.5 m higher than the maximum length of what will fall into the trunk.

The legs of the copra can be fastened with a frame made of the same logs / pipes from driving, but for the sake of saving material, you can dig into the ground by 0.7-0.8 m, placing horizontally under the heel of each piece of log about 1 m long - a bed. Collect the copra tent on the ground, pos. 3, the legs are simultaneously (three or six) inserted into the pits with the beds and the soil is poured back, tamping it tightly.

Note: it is extremely dangerous to strengthen the copra legs directly on the ground with crowbars or steel rods driven in from the outside!

The pile driver is equipped with a lifting and drilling gate (items 1 and 2), a block with a hook (items 1, 2, 4) and a rocker arm for lifting the drill, rope percussion drilling, upsetting of casing pipes and work with a bailer, pos. 2. The block hook and drills with an eye (ring for fastening the rope) are tied with an anchor knot (it is also called a fishing bayonet, item 1 in the figure on the right), and long weights - with a cargo knot, pos. 2 ibid.

Pitch

Having installed the pile driver, a hook with a compact weight (for example, a sledgehammer) is lowered to the ground, and this is where the trunk begins. Around this point, they dig (hammer) a pit with dimensions of approximately 1.5x1.5x1.5 m. In the pit, the starting point is also marked and the first 3-4 m auger is drilled, constantly checking its verticality. This is an extremely important operation, the fate of the entire well depends on the first meters! Further, if the drilling will be to a depth of more than 7 m, it is highly desirable to install a conductor - a pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the annular space of the wellbore. The conductor is carefully vertically aligned and concreted.

Note: Attention! When choosing the size of the borehole, drills and pipes, tie them to the caliber of the submersible pump! The gap between its body and the nearest wall must be at least 7 mm or according to technical specifications for the unit. The most common caliber of domestic submersible pumps is 86 mm.

Penetration

The methods of drilling with different shells on different soils are described above. Problems can arise, except for boulders, with dense dry clay, this is a very harmful breed. You can deal with it in different ways, for example, as shown here:

Video: drilling water wells in dense clay

In general, rotary percussion or rope percussion hydrodrilling is used to penetrate dense clay, see the figure on the right. It is not necessary to pump water that does not yet exist. You can simply pour a few buckets into the casing, wait half an hour or less, and try what is better to take - a glass or a spoon. You don't have to try it with the auger, the clay will take it.

Casing and column

The drill string is assembled from steel pipes with a diameter of about 80 mm and walls with a thickness of 4 mm. Whether you take ready-made drill elbows or make them yourself, pay attention to the connection method. Only bayonet couplings are suitable for hand drilling! Threaded and locking bolts of any kind are not suitable: the rod will inevitably have to be turned in the opposite direction sometime, and the rod will unscrew, and the lock will disperse in any type of percussion drilling.

In the process of drilling, as already mentioned, casing pipes are also mounted. Nowadays, even in professional drilling to shallow depths, plastic has become almost uncontested, but you need to take special casing:

• Lightweight, can be turned alone.
• Withstand forced settlement and soil pressure with a force of up to 5 tf.
• They practically do not inhibit the internal filter, see below, when installing it.
• They do not corrode or spoil water for their entire service life, up to 50 years.

The only thing that plastic casing is afraid of is damage from the inside by the drill rod. Therefore, it is advisable to use drill pipe centralizers, see fig. on the right, 1 for every 3-5 m of the bar. The cheapest are steel spring ones, they are quite suitable. As for the complex ones with turbulators, etc., they are for professional water drilling.

Sprinkling

As the casing deepens into the wellbore, fine gravel should be poured into the annulus. Gravel sprinkling a well on water will greatly speed up its buildup and extend its service life. A well on sand without bedding may turn out to be completely inoperative.

There is water!

The reaching of the aquifer by the needle-hole is judged by the increase in the rate of penetration, and the presence of water is checked with a mannerism - a piece welded from one end steel pipe, lowered into the well on a cord. With the rest of the wells, it is easier: like a drill once again brought out wet soil, it means there is water. It remains to decide whether it is necessary to deepen further. To do this, several buckets are pumped out with a centrifugal submersible pump (a vibrating one will immediately clog in such a slurry). If the water in the 5th bucket has not noticeably lightened, you need to deepen another 0.5 m (1 drilling cycle) and check again. If you have already deepened by 2 m, and the sample is still the same - that's it, there will be no more debit, and you will have to put up with a long buildup. Also, if the rate of penetration suddenly dropped (and it is very difficult for an inexperienced driller to detect it with any method of drilling, except rotary drilling), then drilling is stopped immediately - we are at the bottom of the formation, the well will be perfect.

Note: when drilling is stopped or when it is interrupted, the rod with the drill must be removed without fail, otherwise it will be pulled into the ground.

Buildup

A drilled well will not yet produce water in the required quantity and quality. To do this, it is necessary either to open the aquifer, or to shake the well. Opening the reservoir allows you to get drinking water during the day. It requires a lot of clean water, sophisticated and expensive equipment. For your information: the autopsy is carried out by direct and reverse methods. In direct mode, water is pumped under pressure into the casing and the drilling fluid is pumped out of the annulus. At backwater they are fed by gravity "behind the pipe" and the solution is pumped out of the barrel. Direct penetration is faster, but it disturbs the formation structure more and the well serves less. The opposite is the other way around. Keep in mind when negotiating with drillers if you order a well.

Well swinging takes several days, but it can be done with a conventional household submersible centrifugal pump; vibration is not suitable for the reasons stated above. For swinging, the sludge is first removed from the well with a thief; how to work with a bailer can be seen in the video below:

Video: cleaning (swinging) a well with a homemade bailer

The rest is simple: the water is completely pumped out every time there is enough of it to cover the pump. It is useful to raise and lower it on the cable-rope several times before turning it on in order to stir up the residual sludge. The swing can be done in a manner, but you will scoop up, and it will take two weeks for it.

Note: as it swings, the gravel backfill will settle; it must be replenished by adding it.

The swinging of the well is considered complete when the transparency of the water rises to 70 cm. Check it with a white enamel or faience disc 15 cm in diameter (saucer, saucepan lid) in an opaque vessel, for example. clean barrel. When the edges of the disc begin to blur during immersion - stop, it's already opaque. You need to look at the disc strictly vertically. Upon reaching transparency, a water sample is taken for analysis and, if everything is OK, the annular space is concreted or closed with clay, and a filter is installed.

Filter

A downhole filter is the main device that ensures the quality of water from it. And at the same time, it is its unit most susceptible to wear, therefore, the choice of a well filter must be taken with full responsibility.

Artesian water is taken without filtration. For a limestone well, a simple screen in the form of a perforation on the lower casing elbow is often sufficient; it will also serve as the basis for a well sand filter. The perforation requirements are as follows:

• Hole diameter - 15-20 mm, up to 30 mm depending on the ground.
• The filter ratio (the ratio of the total area of ​​the holes to the area of ​​the surface they occupy) is 0.25-0.30, for which the distance between the centers of the holes is 2-3 times larger than their diameter.
• The arrangement of the holes is staggered in transverse rows.
• The total area of ​​all holes is not less than the cross-sectional area of ​​the casing lumen.

For a well on sand, first, gravel backfill is also needed; v in this case it is this that ensures long-term water quality, just like in a well. In view of this, well screens are commercially available with a gravel layer included in the design. They do not get bad, but the wellbore needs a larger diameter, which makes it difficult to drill, and without external backfill, the well is still quickly silted up.

Further, if you follow the flow of water, there is the same perforated pipe, but now it will be a load-bearing element that perceives the pressure of the rock. So that the sand, which does not retain gravel well, does not spoil the entire waterway, a sand filter is also needed. It can be external or external (on the left in the figure) or internal (on the right in the same place). External filters have three advantages: the minimum diameter and silting of the well and the depth of the pump installation. But they are easily damaged during the installation of the casing, they are not repairable and expensive, because due to the latter circumstance, they must be made of very high quality materials: alloys for the mesh and wire of external downhole filters are more expensive than silver.

When a pump is installed in a well with an internal filter, its bottom is considered to be its upper edge, so the volume of a single water withdrawal is seriously reduced. The disease of all internal filters is increased siltation of the well due to water seepage into the gap between the filter and the casing. This also results in a shorter filter life and increased pump wear as sand gets into it. Often, therefore, the pump is placed in a separate pipe fitted to the filter outlet, which again requires an increase in the borehole diameter.

The best option is to connect the pump directly to the filter outlet, then both silting and sanding will stop. But this requires a centrifugal pump with an intake pipe on the bottom, which makes it much more complicated and more expensive, and the vibration head is often small for wells on sand.

Sand filter elements are sometimes made independently from PVC pipes, stainless springs and polymer mesh, see fig. on the left, but they filter poorly and do not last long. It is better to take a good commercial filter, the conditions of its work are painfully difficult, and removing it, as they say, is a whole business. In this case, basically 3 options are possible, see fig:

1. Polymer dial-ring filter. Cheaper than others, but it serves less and is prone to silting, but it is maintainable: you can pick it up and sort it out, replacing bad rings. Requires increased borehole diameter;
2. Tubular wire with profiled wire winding. A little more expensive than polymer, but it serves for a long time and does not silt. No bulkhead is needed for repairs, just flush at the top. It would be optimal if it were not for one "but": cases of fraud both by manufacturers, traders and drillers have been repeatedly noted - how completely stainless steel filters are served, in which longitudinal rods are made of ordinary galvanized wire. It is impossible to check without breaking the filter, but harmful impurities soon appear in the water, and then the rods completely rust, the winding slips, and the entire filter has to be changed.
3. Supportless welded filters, wire and slotted. They would be ideal (the latter also withstand the draft in the barrel outside on the pipe), if not for the price: they are made of the same profiled stainless wire, which costs about as much as silver.

Arrangement and automation

To supply water to the house, the well must be equipped and mutually coordinated with the water supply. Arrangement of water supply wells in last years has undergone radical changes. The traditional scheme (see the figure on the right) - a caisson, concrete or steel, or a stone pit, which requires a large amount of additional earthwork and usable land area for itself, is becoming a thing of the past. Now water wells are increasingly equipped with borehole adapters, see fig. below. Installing the adapter is a rather painstaking business, but incomparable with a caisson-pit waste:

• As soon as the water has gone, the speed of its clarification is used to judge how far you can go, and the last casing is cut to size from above.
• Before installing it, a trench to the house to a depth greater than the standard depth of soil freezing.
• A hole is drilled in the pipe in advance for the adapter and put it, plugging the pipes. If you put it directly in the well, it can gurgle there.
• They put the pipe and drill, orienting the adapter outlet into the trench at a depth greater than the freezing depth.
• They swing the well, put a filter, lower the pump, connect the pump's supply pipe and transit to the house to the adapter fittings, lay the pump cable.
• They put the cover of the well, when the water has gone into the tank, fill up the trench - that's all.

The water supply of a private house from a well has its own characteristics, but they will not prevent later from connecting to a collective water supply system or being supplied with water from a well. You will not have to redo anything, it will only be more reliable.

First, a pressure storage tank is required. The debit of a non-artesian well may, for some unknown reason, fall until it stops completely, and then the water flows again as if nothing had happened. Secondly, at least a 2-stage membrane filter is needed behind the water flow tank. In public water supply systems, the quality of water is continuously monitored, which is not at home. What if, somewhere in the reservoir feeding zone, a man-made accident or unauthorized discharge of pollution? Everyone has already forgotten when it was, and bad water just came to the well.

Finally, the domestic water supply must comply with the principle of gradual uniform water withdrawal, which was mentioned at the beginning. Cooperating with neighbors, as in the construction of a common septic tank, is not the best way out in this case. Suddenly there will not be enough debit for everyone, instead of the community there will be a squabble. Those. we need automation that turns on the pump for pumping, as soon as someone somewhere opened the tap.

There are 2 possible options. The first is a pressure tank with a float valve in a warm attic. All automatics - a rod passing in the sleeve through the tank lid and resting on the float lever, and a 6-10 A microswitch (micrik) with normally closed contacts in the pump power supply circuit. While the tank is full, the stem presses on the micric lever, the pump is de-energized. A little water went into the house - the stock went down, the micrik worked, the pump started to pump.

However, firstly, you need to insulate the attic, which costs a lot of work and money. The second is a pump, it will require 4-5 extra meters of pressure, and for a 2-storey building, all 8-9, so the pump turns out to be expensive. Thirdly, a tank leak or a float malfunction will at least lead to locking of the ceiling. Therefore, modern automation for water supply wells, controlled by a microcontroller that monitors the flow rate, water pressure and the frequency of pump activation, is still cheaper and more reliable. Domestic water supply is then carried out with a sealed membrane storage tank in the basement.

Afterword

The drilling foremen who once developed Tyumen and Urengoy are still alive. Geophysical equipment, which builds a 3D image of what is in the ground on a computer display, and fully robotic drilling rigs did not exist then, but they already saw through the earth with their intuition, experience and were on the "you" with all the spirits of the bowels. And the then ministers and members of the Politburo, whose arrogance was more than that of the Old Testament boyars and appanage princes, addressed these asses by their first name and patronymic and respectfully greeted them by the hand.

So, any of the old bison drillers have unsuccessful wells on their account, which they are not shy about - this is the job. What then is there to say to beginners acting independently? Do not be discouraged by failure, if the first well is empty, or collapses, or the drill gets stuck. Not without that in the drilling business. But annoyance and disappointment will instantly subside under the powerful pressure of, as they say now, positive, as soon as your well will give water.

Any Vacation home must be provided with water that can be used not only for watering the site, but also for cooking, cleaning the house, and washing. However, it is not always possible to connect to the centralized water supply system, but this problem can be solved independently. A well for water with your own hands from a to z, a video for 30 m and how to drill it without using special equipment - those aspects that are discussed in detail in the article.

Diy water well drilling, video

Drilling a well on the site is a grandiose and laborious process, too costly and labor-intensive. This statement is wrong. These works can be done by hand. This approach allows you to save on expensive equipment rental. The house will be provided with clean and cheap water around the clock thanks to a well.

Water Well Drilling Kit

A well in sand with a depth of 30 meters is one of the most popular types and can last more than 10-13 years. The well needs to be cleaned periodically, which significantly extends the period of uninterrupted operation. The structure of the well on the sand is a pipe that is lowered into the mine. A special stainless steel coarse filter is installed at the bottom. A well is drilled by a screw method. The water level should be checked for the content of chemical and organic substances. Sometimes the aquifer can contain water that needs to be thoroughly cleaned before it can be drunk.

Many owners of country houses decide to use a gas drill when drilling. This device makes it much easier manual labor, and time costs are significantly reduced. An electric or gas drill by rotation reaches high speeds and quickly brings the soil to the surface.

Diy water well: principle of operation, diagram

Water wells of any diameter work according to general principles. After drilling with a gas drill or manually, the casing is installed, which will keep the soil masses from shedding, thereby protecting the water from pollution. The pipe can be metal, plastic, asbestos. Its lower part should be perforated for unhindered water flow into the intake channel.

Dacha water supply scheme

For better filtration, a space is left at the very bottom of the channel, which will serve as a sump. All coarse, heavy particles will settle to the bottom rather than flow to the surface. For even better cleaning of the liquid from sand and silt, a coarse filter, which is a fine mesh, is installed in the perforated part of the pipe. It will cut off the suction of coarse particles by the pump.

To prevent the backflow of water through the channel when the engine is turned off, additional valves are installed. The power of the electric pump is selected individually, depending on the distance of the house from the well and its depth. For greater convenience, it is better to fully automate the water supply process. This is achieved by installing special equipment, sensors and pressure gauges to monitor the pressure in the system. At the final stage, the pipe system itself is insulated.

A well for water can be made independently at home or you can use the appropriate mechanisms for this. If you decide to do without special electrical or gas equipment, you need to prepare the following tools, namely:

• metal drill of the required diameter;
• collapsible drilling rig;
• a sufficient number of rods;
• mechanical or electric winch;
• casing.

Drilling a well with a hand drill 30 meters deep is a rather tedious and time-consuming task. Using a drill and rods, the rig is assembled, and as it deepens, new sections are added. Drilling goes clockwise. Rotation of the drill is performed manually by 2-3 assistants. Experienced craftsmen pour water into the well to soften the soil. The drill must be removed periodically in order to extract soil masses. To do this without a drill tower is problematic and difficult. The use of a winch greatly simplifies this event.

The drilling cycle is repeated step by step. After reaching the aquifer, it must be passed completely until the drill rests against the waterproof layer. Such a well arrangement is more preferable. Thanks to this scheme, water will flow faster into the water intake. The first portions of the liquid are always dirty, but after prolonged flushing, clean water begins to flow. If this does not happen, experts recommend going deeper for a couple of meters.

For pumping water, it is better to use one equipped with filters. A hand pump can also extract water, but the depth of the well makes this difficult. It is much easier to automate water delivery to the surface. In this case, the well is connected to the water supply system for uninterrupted supply in the house. Some owners of suburban areas make a storage for water. This can be a plastic or metal container of the required volume. Water is supplied to the house directly from the settling barrel. Water flows into the container itself automatically after the level drops. If you equip the tank with a float, then turning on the pump for collecting water can be automated.

Video on how to make a water well with your own hands by hand:

Drilling a well for water with your own hands from a to z, a 30 m video is of interest to many owners of country houses. Having a source of clean water, you can not only provide the site with irrigation, which will significantly increase the productivity of garden crops. Well water is the most inexpensive way to organize uninterrupted water supply to the cottage, which will increase the level of comfort during rest.

Many country houses or simply country houses Dont Have central water supply, so you have to organize the water supply on your own.

This could be digging a well or drilling a well.

If for some reason you decide to drill a well with your own hands, then you must first familiarize yourself with the drilling technology and the existing drilling methods.

Let's take a closer look at the hand drilling method.

If you already have a well on the site, but the water in it has lost its original quality, then you should not start it right away overhaul- today you will learn about the possible causes of this unpleasant phenomenon and the possibilities of its elimination.

Water in a well or well is potable if:

1. The upper layer of water is transparent to a depth of no less than 30 cm.
2. Water has impurities in the form of nitrates no more than 10 mg / l.
3. One liter of water should contain less than 10 E. coli.
4. Taste assessment of water and assessment of smell on a 5-point scale - not less than 3 points.

To determine these data, water should be given to the sanitary-epidemiological service for laboratory analysis.

It is not necessary to do everything yourself, it is better to contact the specialists and carry out the arrangement of the water well in Kazan professionally.

Let's consider this process in theory. First, you need to dig a hole with a depth of at least 2 meters and a diameter (or sides) of 1.5 m. This technique prevents the upper loose soil layer from shattering.

The walls of the pit must be reinforced with boards. The well is drilled using a rig and casing. A drill string is suspended on the tower exactly in the center of the future well.

What is a drill string is a series of rods that can be extended while drilling using transition sleeves. A drill head is mounted at the end of the column.

The tower can be made from scrap materials - from logs, for example, or welded from a metal corner, pipes or channels.

The tower should be in the form of a tripod, inside which the winch is attached.

You can drill without a rig if the water is shallow. In this case, special shortened rods with a length of 1.5 m are used.If a tower is required during drilling, then the rods must be taken with a length of 3 m.

The entire tool is manufactured from carbon steel. Equipment and drilling method are selected from the type of soil.

The following drill heads can be used for drilling:

1. Spiral drill... Used for drilling in clay. The lower part of the drill is 45-85 mm in size and the blade length is 258-290 mm.
2. Drill bit used for percussion drilling... The shape of such a drill is cruciform, flat, etc.
3. Boer spoon Is a metal cylinder that has a longitudinal or spiral slot and is made in the form of an eccentric. Used in clay sand, sandy clay and loam. In one pass, you can go deeper by 30-40 cm. Length - about 700 mm, diameter - 70-200 mm.
4. Bailer- it is used to extract loose soil by the shock method. Types of bailer - piston and ordinary, made from a pipe up to 3 meters long. Inner diameter bailers - 25-96 mm, weight - 89-225 kg, external diameter- 95-219 mm.

The drilling operation itself is a cyclical process, which is accompanied by periodic cleaning of the drilling tool from soil. The drill can be cleaned only by completely removing it from. The longer the rods, the more difficult it is to pull them out of the well.

How to do everything yourself?

So, we drill a well with our own hands. For drilling, you will need a spiral drill, it is also a metal auger or a coil. Practice shows that an ordinary fishing ice screw perfectly copes with this role. This drilling method is one of the cheapest.

What materials and tools will be required:

1. The auger is the main tool. The factory edges of the drill can be reinforced with additional cutters, by welding them with gas or electric welding. As incisors, you can take regular files, which must first be sharpened.
2. Steel pipes with a diameter of 25 mm for the extension bends.
3. Shovel and soil removal device:
   • garden cart
   • car trailer
4. Pump with a hose for "rocking" the well.
5. Goats or a high table to stand on.
6. Gravel screening device.
7. Fine gravel for backfilling.

Casing pipes must be prepared before drilling - perforations must be drilled in the walls.

The holes are located at least 0.5 meters from the lower edge of the pipe and are drilled in the pipe body for 1.5-2 m. The diameter of the holes is 5-7 mm.

Also prepare guides from the bars that will be attached to the pipe. The bars are needed in order to center the pipe and make the gap between the well and the pipe the same so that the gravel screenings can be covered with an even layer.

Auger drilling

The place on the site where the well will be drilled must first be leveled. After that, a hole is dug in the ground to guide the drill 40-60 cm deep. Now you can start drilling.

The first few meters can be rotated by one person, but after 3-4 meters you will need the help of one or two people. As the drill sinks into the ground, it will rotate harder. To facilitate this process, you can pour water into the well to make the soil softer.

After several full turns, the drill must be pulled out and cleaned of soil. The soil can be immediately removed from the site so that it does not interfere with the work. Drilling continues until the drill handle is lowered to the very ground. Then you need to build up the drill with an additional elbow pipe.

After lengthening the handle of the drill, it will no longer be possible to work with it from the ground, therefore, a high table or wooden trestles are needed.

You can also rotate the drill using a conventional # 3 gas wrench. While building up the metal pipe bends, they continue to drill until the aquifer begins. It is easy to spot on the ground - it will become wet.

This stage of drilling is fraught with pulling the drill into the ground, so the drill cuttings (wet ground) must be removed in small portions.

To prevent entering the well groundwater from the upper layers of the soil, the depth is made more than the first layer of clay. Before lowering the pipe, remove and lower the drill rods 3-4 times to clean.

After lowering the pipe, the gap between the pipe and the well is filled with fine gravel.

Buildup

For swinging - cleaning a homemade well from dirt, it is better to use a high-power centrifugal pump, although a vibration pump can also be used, the work of which will simply stretch the swinging time.

In order for a low-power vibration pump to clean the well faster, you need to raise it several times and shake the water so that the solid sediment does not have time to sink to the bottom.

When the well is swinging, the screening of gravel, which was filled between the well and the pipes, will gradually shrink, therefore, the gravel must be periodically poured. The buildup usually lasts a long time and with a lot of water, therefore it is recommended to organize the drainage of the water into the ditch.

After the completion of the swing, the well is equipped with a permanent pump for its daily operation.

And finally, a short video on how to drill a well with your own hands