Swedish frame house. Swedish country houses and cottages

Registration: 02.01.15 Messages: 216 Acknowledgments: 1.276

Last edit: 01/08/17

Registration: 02.01.15 Messages: 216 Acknowledgments: 1.276

So, today is the day off and I continue as promised. I missed last weekend, for which I repent and offer all kinds of apologies, but I had the serious reason: I worked hard in the sweat of my face. Yesterday was Saturday and I was at home, but I couldn’t write either, because on Friday the vile bird “quailed” unexpectedly pecked me in the sirloin of magnificent Swedish work trousers and put my not very bright head out of order for a day, so that almost all Saturday I reeling from the injury. But taking advantage of the forced creative downtime, I uploaded to YouTube and edited a video telling about the area where the construction is going on and the principles of the formation of the village. The video can be extremely useful for both representatives of engineering services and ordinary developers. I shot it amateurishly, so do not expect directorial frills - I have pure journalism
Link to video is here. I recommend watching the video, and then continue reading the manual.

So, let's get down to the house itself. A house, as you know, is a kind of construction, consisting of thousands of various details, however for the most part not very necessary, and even completely unnecessary. Be that as it may, this whole pile of building materials weighs not frail tons, and all this wealth puts pressure on ... Who said "on the ground"? It is for amateurs that the house stands on the ground, but for professionals it is not on the ground but on the ground and it does not stand but rests and not the house but the foundation!
That's where we'll start.
So at the time of my first arrival, the foundation was ready. Almost approaching the shed, I discovered a seventy-ton structure, called in the language of Celsius and Nobel platta på mark and in the great and mighty christened with a three-letter sign: U.Sh.P. A brief summary of the construction for those who slept at the lessons of sopromat: the soil at the construction site is planned and leveled, upper layer they are removed along with vegetation and living creatures, because flora and fauna should not do where the king of nature (as he naively thinks of himself) and his wife and children will be registered. V this case the planners got so carried away that they even demolished a piece of rock that rises right behind the house. Having prepared the soil, it is required to lay engineering communications (or rather, pipes and channels), then fill the surface with three rubble dump trucks (about half the weight of the foundation) - carefully tamping every few centimeters of the next layer. then, on the resulting gravel site, a foam pillow is laid out. If someone's virgin soul wandered here by accident and does not believe his eyes, then I confirm: yes, foam. Specifically, expanded polystyrene, more specifically, expanded polystyrene of class S-80, which means that it can withstand a load of up to 8 tons per square meter. True, this is a somewhat fraudulent characteristic, therefore it is written in small letters and upside down, because this is the value of the short-term load at which the material does not have the right to deform by more than 1 or 2 percent - I forgot this detail. And the long-term characteristic is four times lower, that is, two tons per square meter or 20 kilopascals. Actually, this figure determines the "bearing" capacity of foam plastics, plastics and other building materials - compressive strength - and in our country it is determined by the letter S and a number. The most popular foams in our market are ordinary white foam. Even at school age, we drove teachers to hysterics when we rubbed a slobbered piece on glass. Basically, it's just styrofoam. There are also stronger varieties, but they are not of interest to us now. I hope I didn’t mix up anything after the vile peck of the vile bird ...
So, foam plastic is laid out on rammed rubble. In one layer, 100 millimeters thick. And along the perimeter, the so-called "kant-elements" are laid, these are pieces of the same foam glued at 90 degrees, and one side is already plastered or lined with mineralite - a material similar to drywall but not afraid of street precipitation. This side will subsequently be the base and it will not need to be processed, which is undoubtedly humane in relation to the builders. Elements are bought ready-made in the store. And in the corners, similar corner elements of three plates are installed. Having built the entire perimeter in this way and covering the rubble inside the perimeter, we get a huge foam bath. At the request of the developers, the average layer of floor insulation must be at least 250 millimeters effective insulation. Styrofoam is quite effective for itself, it has a lambda of the order of 0.04 watt-square-kelvin (I don’t remember the exact formula and sequence now, but if anyone needs it, I’ll tell you where to look, gee ...) and we put two more layers of foam on the resulting pillow, the benefit of the height of the sides allows - 400 millimeters. It turns out such a large but shallow bath, only an inch deep and you don’t need to be famous mathematician to calculate the exact value of this vershok. But under the load-bearing walls, we leave the foam in one layer, there we will have a concrete depth of all thirty centimeters, because the load-bearing walls are cool and require respect. Below I will attach some funny pictures, likened to my shaking curves in Paint, by arrogantly isolating everything superfluous from architectural drawings - everything is in section, full face and profile. Who will not be enough and would like even more details - welcome to Google, he will tell everything with this phrase: platta på mark- and you will find your happiness. Or at least the information you're looking for.
I continue: The resulting bath is reinforced with pieces of iron, underfloor heating pipes, cold water and hot water pipes are laid in it, if necessary, corrugated hoses for cables and wires, sewage is laid out and when everything is ready, it is solemnly poured with concrete. The surface of the concrete at the setting stage is rubbed with floats, popularly referred to as "helicopters", and as a result, a smooth concrete surface is obtained, smooth as an expensive marble countertop. Walls, ceilings, a roof are placed on such a slab, and it turns out that the whole house practically stands on foam plastic. Then, click-parquet or other finishing coating is laid on this plate through a standard three-millimeter substrate. There are various subtleties and details, I won’t mention them all, because, as I already wrote, by the time I arrived, the slab had already been filled with three dozen tons of concrete and even covered with snow and ice from above.

Precipitation attacked while the guys were mounting the awning, and they attacked, melted and froze. And we needed a flat area for work, and here a mistake was made - someone sprinkled salt on the ice. The ice was dealt with this way, but NEVER do this on reinforced concrete - the salt gets into the concrete and enters into chemical reaction with iron fittings. In our case, there was not enough salt, they removed it immediately and the stove will always be dry and warm, but if someone wants to visit a marafet on the balcony, NO WAY!
But that was only part of the foundation. The main, bearing but part. The fact is that according to the project of the architect, in the place where the rock was cut down, it was necessary to raise walls from another material to the height of the floor. It happens like this: a house, for example, a frame house (the most common private house from new buildings in our country) and in a critical place they pour a concrete wall or build it from lightweight concrete blocks - after all, snowdrifts can collect there, and mountain leaves, it turns out that it’s not harmful to create such a high basement at the back of the building. In our case, a block was chosen as the material - and in Russian, a claydite-concrete block with a density ... By the way, I don’t know which one, I think 500 or 600. By my arrival, the blocks had already been bought and even partially put on the stove. And everything would be fine if it were not for one harsh BUT like the Chebarkul meteorite. In terms of plan, the wall consisted of three parts - one end and two pieces along the long walls of the house.

But on the horizon, this caricature of the model of the Great Wall of China was divided into 10 levels above the floor level. Ten, Carl! And actually the floor was the eleventh level! Which one? HU... An artist! Did you come up with such a creative solution? Well, two, okay, three, although this is already too much, but ten! Mine is in shock... Here, I'm posting dirt in two planes, dug up by the same barbaric method as the previous graffiti.

Structurally, the wall was also not the simplest. In fact, two parallel walls were built from expanded clay concrete blocks 10x190x590 mm on the most banal masonry mortar with bandaging of the walls with stainless steel rods (yeah, stainless steel!) With a diameter of 10 mm, but a fifty-millimeter layer of the same S-80 foam was laid between the walls. Well, given that the specific thermal conductivity of expanded clay concrete blocks, even without taking into account the seams, is twenty times higher than the similar value of foam plastic, then five centimeters of the latter added as much "heat" as a meter of expanded clay concrete would give. This, by the way, is for those who like to build stone houses without insulation: the thermal transfer level of ordinary foam plastic is 0.04w / m.kv * K versus 0.2 for expanded clay concrete. Manufacturers' data. By the way, let me remind you one more thing: the thermal conductivity of porous and bulk materials strongly depends on their humidity. Without going into details, the manufacturer always declares data for dry material, but in fact its moisture content depends on various factors and in winter in cold climates (that is, with negative temperatures) outer wall a house made of porous or loose material without proper vapor barrier has a very high humidity and its actual thermal insulation properties are reduced by (there are such borrowed data) 15-20%. manufacturers of foam concrete somehow forget to tell their customers about this moment. Foam plastics are much less affected by this influence due to some factors that I do not plan to talk about now.
Well, in short, a two-layer wall is built, reinforced along and with connecting transverse bridges through an insulating separating foam. The upper platforms are filled with a five-centimeter "armor belt", the essence of which is not to connect a dozen disparate wall platforms, but to accept and distribute the load from those upper "normal" walls that will put pressure on our "basement" floor. By the time I arrived, the wall was partially built, and I expressed doubts (to put it mildly) about its compliance with local heat resistance standards. Despite the five-centimeter foam, this is clearly not enough. We decided that later we would return to the discussion of additional wall insulation, most likely from the outside with 70 mm XPS or PPU boards. On that they agreed. But it was still too early for me to start work - three qualified specialists were spinning on the same heel, the contractor supplied them with everything they needed, and I still had unfinished work at the previous facility and other people were waiting for a couple of small but urgent matters, so for another week we and broke up. A week later, the material came and we had everything ready for the next operations, which I will talk about next time.
Phew! I hope this post counts as two.
Always yours- Kostya G. Sweden.

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Last edit: 01/23/17

Registration: 02.01.15 Messages: 216 Acknowledgments: 1.276

We continue the conversation. The other day I found a couple of pieces lying around in the backyard to illustrate the previous narrative. On the first photo - the same "L-edge-element" in person. This is a small model, 200 mm high. Below, probably, they don’t do it, I don’t remember what I would have met. This is quite suitable for building a small house, cottage, outbuilding or barn. In our case, our unfinished garage stands on these. During the installation process, they are fastened to each other with such steel plates as in the photo. This is so that in the process of laying reinforcement and pipes, the blocks do not move apart.

In the next picture, I attached "back to back" a fragment of the "full-sized" element from which the foundation of the house is built. As you can see, the design is the same, but the height of the basement is higher. Visible and "plaster".

So while I wandered the hell where busy with other work the guys valiantly built stone walls, received and unloaded building material delivered from overseas for load-bearing walls. Here I consider it unfair not to insert a couple of lines about my colleagues.
Three middle-aged Latvians communicate with each other in their own, from which I understand six words. But I am a good student and by the end of the object I plan to double GDP oh, the vocabulary of Latvian. At one time, this happened in the Lithuanian brigade, and now I can chat with any Lithuanian about anything in Russian, inserting all the dozen Lithuanian words I know. In addition to Latvian, my new comrades-in-arms speak Russian and English. English in Europe is generally zapolozhnyak, the Swedes almost all speak it, so if someone decides to go to Scandinavia on vacation, then you will be in full communication with English almost everywhere. I know people who for 10 years stubbornly did not learn the Swedish language while living here all the time - they had enough of the available English. Well, after two five-year periods, of course, Swedish is already sticking by itself, in such a time you will learn to understand like a cat. Yes, and Swedish fits into English much better than into Russian. The trouble is that I'm not a Swede or a Latvian, and they didn't teach me English, so I mastered Swedish right away, without an English "intermediary", as a result of which I speak the latter not much better than Latvian. In everyday communication, this does not create problems for me, but when collective meetings at facilities with foreign workers, then everyone automatically switches to English, and I blink my eyes like a fool, trying to understand at least what they are talking about. Then I always ask someone again, clarifying the details. One of the Latvians has experience as a signalman, and these are: electrician, data, cables, trenches, tractors and excavators with all related skills. Another has experience both in mega-buildings (it turns out we both worked on one of these) and in an exclusive carpentry with valuable varieties of exotic breeds) and the third is just a universal soldier. A very sensible set, otherwise it’s always like a construction site, so I’m torn between some narrow specializations alone. Here, then, there is someone to work on the excavator, and pull the electrician, and the water supply. This is good.

In addition to the builders, the facility has a full-sized trailer-cottage used as a chute. The trailer is powered by the mains and is equipped with a kettle, microwave, etc. I practically do not use it, because I also have fresh air good appetite
The building material was manufactured in Lithuania and delivered. The men unloaded it immediately on the foundation, under the awning, in order to protect it from precipitation. Content this material dry as a baby's booty is a must! I have never worked with this kind of material before.
The load-bearing walls of the house will be built from blocks made at the "factory". I don't know how big that "factory" is, maybe a small workshop. And even most likely - a workshop, it doesn’t matter, it’s important that it’s clearly not on your knee. These are spatial elements made of wooden beams and plywood, roughly speaking. wooden boxes filled with straw. Straw, Carl! That is, naturally, straw from the fields, even threshed spikelets come across! Despite the experience of harvesting cereals on combines in the open spaces of our once common homeland with Latvians and Lithuanians, I am not strong in collective farm botany and cannot determine the plant variety, but now we have a smell like in a barn in a hayloft! At least bring the heifers of the girls!

The block design inspires confidence. Plywood and beams are twisted together with concrete screws, seats under the flat "mounting heads of large press-washer self-tapping screws" deepened by Forstner. The plywood is even, without visible flaws, the wood is planed, the straw is not rotten, without debris. "The discrepancy between the sizes is purely symbolic, in some places up to a millimeter, a maximum of two, no more. But most of the blocks go head to head, at least load it into a cannon. For such a not very stable material as pieces of wood, this is an excellent result. In this regard, the Lithuanians were pleased. What is not I was pleased, because it's the weight of some blocks. The blocks are different. Quite different. All the blocks have a total depth due to the wall thickness of 400 mm (yes, 400!), And the other two parameters and shape are unique as the tricks of my children. The smallest ones are the size of desk, but large ones with a good wardrobe. And now imagine a chiffonier stuffed heartily with straw. I don’t know how much such a block weighs, but only four of them could lift such a block to a height above the waist, and even then I was worried about my back. I already had an experience when, having dragged a truckload of material for a day, I suddenly collapsed in a couple of days from acute back pain. Fell down literally, right at the workplace, a sudden pain in the lower back just knocked him down. A couple of weeks then he lay at home, for another week he did not lift anything heavier than one board. In short, I have now seen such works without lifting mechanisms in a coffin. But we don’t have mechanisms in stock and we raise it manually, constructing various platforms from racks and other blocks. Fortunately, the guys are healthy and strong, and I'm probably the most frail among them. Or the most cunning one, go and figure it out for me ... Be that as it may, we have these blocks and it's time to mount supports under them. Which is what I did.
The supports are two parallel beams 45x95mm laid on a sponge rubber tape and pressed to the foundation with steel clamps. Rubber was not chosen by chance: it provides not only insulation of concrete from wood - required condition according to our standards, but also observes almost complete tightness from air suction between concrete and wood. This condition must be observed, since our house must be airtight. Therefore, the pressing should be good, although I don’t worry about this topic - the walls of the house will then press everything themselves as it should. But still, we did not select the fasteners anyhow. Wedged anchors were abandoned - long and expensive. The outer row was fastened with spacers and the inner row with concrete screws. The spacer sleeve is a tube of strong steel cut along the body. Its nose is narrowed and the "hat", on the contrary, is expanded under the appearance of a funnel.

A hole is drilled in concrete right through the beam (however, I previously drilled the beam with a wooden drill, so it’s more feng shui) into which, again, this “crutch” is hammered through the beam with a hammer. He holds it in such a way that it can only be torn out with a crowbar, and even then some of them sit so tightly in concrete that they sink halfway deep into the wood. Concrete screws cannot be torn out at all except with a piece of concrete, but they are much more expensive, so they were used of a shorter length on the inner row of the support and longer driven fasteners on the outer one.

This is something that would inadvertently not get into the tubes of the warm floor in concrete. I used two screwdrivers and two punchers. I drilled the bars with a cartridge screw, then drilled them with a small diameter with a battery punch, then I unrolled these channels with a network punch with the desired drill diameter and I already screwed the screws on the concrete with an impact tool. Network perf brigade, battery devices are mine. Such a two-pass drilling scheme provides maximum hole accuracy, minimum deviation from a given point. The accuracy of the installation of the walls depends on the accuracy of the installation of our guides, and given that we are a "designer", an error of half a centimeter will be visible. So, accuracy is the courtesy of kings!

But here at every step I was already remembering tricky architects! I hope they hiccuped there these couple of days so that they could not even eat! After all, in the plan (the plan is a top view and not what some people thought) all the pieces of wood should line up in perfect lines and in the horizon there are eleven levels! I have never touched their female ancestors!

Further, foam plastic was laid between the bars, cutting through the "cold bridge" and the entire resulting area was covered with a four-millimeter substrate, which was originally intended for lining under a laminate or parquet board but it works great here too. The substrate is terribly eco-friendly, made from exclusively natural ingredients and you can even eat it along the way, if the cook does not lie to us(C) It feels like a mixture of felt and cardboard, the color is green, the price, I suspect, is immodest, and her last name is .. And her last name is too famous to be called here!
Yes, I would call it, but the moderator will delete the whole post again, we swam, we know ... So we will call it felt!

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Last edit: 01/28/17

Registration: 02.01.15 Messages: 216 Acknowledgments: 1.276

In addition, a very clear installation scheme for each wall.

In general, there were not many problems with identification and installation. The main problem is the weight of individual blocks. If I have to participate in the next order for such a building, I will set conditions so that smaller blocks are made at a level above the first floor. The second problem is the straw that fell into our muzzles, behind the scruff of the neck, in the bosom and in other intimate places. When you work actively in the cold, straw dust and crumbs very cheerfully make themselves felt on your sweaty body. Perhaps it will be necessary to order non-shrinking straw next time
Fasteners were brought to us in the same kit, they were very serious screws of excellent quality - no savings! Everything is grown-up! Blocks are installed on a prepared foundation and attached to wooden beams and with each other with screws, forming a wall. The following blocks are placed on them. Of course, we have more than once swore from the bottom of our hearts and commemorated the architect with a gentle, quiet word...

So, in a week the entire first floor was built, and suddenly we had nothing to do. The material had run out and the next transport was expected in a week and a half. In general, we somehow hurried with the accelerated pace of work. I again moved to my clients for several days, just there the need arose for me, one of the Latvians went home, the other two were tinkering around at the facility with a garage and some other little things. Then I came back and we sewed up one wall of the garage with a facade board. The facade board for the garage was also not ordinary. This is the so-called Thermowood, a Swedish development, thermally processed coniferous wood. An alternative to pressure impregnated wood (Tryckimpregnerat trä) and naturally rot resistant wood. Pressure impregnation is a method that has come to replace the treatment with creosote - a terribly smelly and poisonous resin, with which our sleepers and roadside telegraph poles were soaked everywhere - remember, right? Creosote was also a strong carcinogen. Creosote was replaced by the method of impregnation with salts of metals - primarily copper, but now there is nothing mixed there. The method itself also changes over time, some salts are replaced by others, the technology also changes, but the essence is something like this - a finished commodity tree (already sawn, planed and properly dried) is placed in huge sealed vats and filled with a solution of these salts, after which a vacuum is created there (or do not create), cook (or do not cook) but in the end they always give high pressure and thus the pieces of wood are saturated with this solution through (or almost through). Places where the brine has not reached are already dense enough and need less special protection, so the whole piece of wood is more or less protected from rotting and mold. This is the same "green" board that I mentioned at the beginning of today's post. The guarantee for such treated wood is from 20 years. This means that even in a swamp, such a piece of wood has no right to rot in 19 years and 11 months, with a receipt, of course! Protection classes are different, there is an easy one for window frames or attic elements, but there is one that can really be buried in a swamp. But all this, whatever one may say, is chemistry, and our customer, as you can already guess, didn’t choose it for that thatched house in order to later sheathe the facade with a set of salts of heavy metals He wanted to sheathe it with larch, since it will hang on the front side of the eyelids without any chemicals and will not require any protection, even painting. In this plan better larch only exotic varieties of tropical trees, but there is a price - mother do not cry! For example, this Ipe tree, with which I laid the floor of the terrace and balcony, also will not rot for a century, but a square meter of such a board costs more than 100 euros. However... The truth is beautiful, you can't argue. In short, larch, it seems, fits into the ratio of price and quality, but I opposed it. I stated that I would go around the facade even with impregnated wood, even with exotic, even with saxaul or even sliced ​​\u200b\u200bcacti, but I will not give any guarantee for larch, because it was a sad experience.