How to make water distribution in the country. Autonomous water supply at home

You can't do without plumbing in the country. Summer water supply is the most common type of water supply for summer cottages. Thanks to the summer water supply system, full-fledged watering of plants is ensured, time is saved, and work is facilitated. Using pipes made of new materials instead of traditional metal pipes makes plumbing much faster, easier and cheaper.

The summer version of the water supply is quite suitable for seasonal living in the country. Suitable for both irrigation and household appliances, supplying water to the shower, bath, swimming pool, brings comfort to country life. In winter, its use is undesirable or even impossible. Summer water supply is simpler and cheaper than year-round, but less durable.

What water sources are used for summer plumbing

The primary task in arranging a summer water supply is the choice of a water source.

Types of water sources for summer water supply:

1. Central Highway.
2. Well.
3. Well.
4. Natural reservoir.
5. Rain water tank.

Central water supply

Perfect option. To connect to a steel main pipe directly under pressure, use an overhead tee (saddle). It is mounted on the entry point and secured with bolts. After that, a ball valve on a fumnit is mounted in it. A hole is drilled through the tap with a drill in the central pipe and the tap is immediately closed.

natural reservoirs

Reservoirs - river, lake, pond. The disadvantage of using open reservoirs for country water supply is the need to purify water from impurities.

wells

There are two types of wells designed for water intake - artesian and sandy.

A sand well will require filtration equipment due to the high content of sand and clay. The average water supply rate is about two cubic meters per hour, which is quite enough for summer cottages and small country houses.

Water in an artesian well rises to the surface under pressure. The resulting amount of water is 10 cubic meters per hour. An additional advantage of an artesian well is cleaner water due to deep drilling. Such wells are durable: on average, the service life is 50 years.

Well

The depth of the well depends on the level of groundwater and usually does not exceed 15 m. The disadvantages of the well include the content of many harmful impurities and a small supply of water - about 200 liters per hour.

Rain water tank

As reservoirs for collecting melt and rainwater, pools or artificial ponds, plastic and metal containers are used: tanks, barrels, vats. They are laid to them drainage pipes or downspout roofing pipes. Water from containers for the winter can not be drained, and so that the walls of the tank do not freeze, several plastic bottles are placed half-filled with water or sand.

What are the summer water supply schemes

After the source of water is determined, you should decide which type of water supply to choose: year-round or only summer.

Summer water supply in a personal plot, dacha, garden is used for watering plants, filling an artificial reservoir, supplying water to a shower, bath, summer kitchen and other household needs. In winter, such a water supply system is not used.

Summer water supply is collapsible and permanent.

Summer collapsible plumbing

In the case of choosing a collapsible water supply, pipes or hoses simply lie on the ground or are raised above it. Such a water supply system is easy to assemble from ordinary silicone or rubber hoses by connecting them together with plastic or steel adapters.

There are special clamps on sale, which have a ribbed cone for the hose on one side, and a convenient elastic connector on the other, which allows you to connect and disconnect hoses in one motion. Such latches create a strong joint.

The advantages of summer collapsible water supply include:

1. Quick assembly and disassembly.
2. Quick search for a damaged pipe and repair of a hole.
3. The cost of a collapsible water supply is lower than a stationary one.

Disadvantages of summer collapsible water supply:

1. Pipes interfere with movement.
2. High chance of theft.
3. The need for assembly and disassembly at the beginning and end of the watering season.

Stationary summer water supply

Permanent water supply is laid underground. For these purposes, you can use thick-walled rubber hoses or plastic pipes. Plastic plumbing at their summer cottage is laid at an angle to the drain valve near the source of water supply. Before the onset of cold weather, the remaining water from the pipeline is completely pumped out to prevent freezing and damage to the pipes.

For a permanent summer water supply scheme, pipes are placed in the ground at a shallow depth, and water taps are brought to the surface.

Advantages of a stationary country water supply:

1. The pipes are located underground and do not interfere with walking, transporting goods on a trolley.
2. Installation of summer water supply is carried out once.
3. The underground location of the pipes serves as protection against theft.
4. Simple winterization of the system, just open the drain valve and release all the water.

The disadvantages of a stationary summer water supply are:

1. Larger material costs than in the construction of a collapsible water supply.
2. Time-consuming installation of water supply due to the need to dig trenches and lay pipes under a slope.
3. Difficulties with finding and repairing a hole in the pipe.

How to plan a summer plumbing

Before purchasing pipes and proceeding with their assembly, it is necessary to think over a plan and draw up a preliminary drawing, specify all dimensions in detail. You should decide in advance: where to supply water, where the water intake points will be located, how many connections will be needed.

Then, with the help of pegs and twine, they lay out the future water supply route on the land plot, measure and calculate the required pipe footage, the number of angles, tees, taps and others. Supplies. In any case, a small supply of components will not hurt. Good plan- the key to success, saving effort, time and money.

The project should indicate the existing and planned underground communications, paths, buildings, plantings, especially if a permanent summer water supply scheme is being installed. When installing a stationary summer water supply, trenches are prepared for laying pipes. The depth of laying pipes is usually 30-40 cm.

However, if the pipes lie under the beds, and there is a possibility of damaging them with a shovel or cultivator, then the trench depth is increased to 50-70 cm. This is a laborious process, but replacing broken pipes and eliminating leaks is even more difficult. Pipes come to the surface of the earth only in places of water supply.

When planning a permanent water supply, it is important to remember that all pipes in the trench are laid at a slope towards the connection to the water intake. A drain valve is installed at the lowest part of the pipeline. This will drain the water for the winter and avoid damage to the pipes. It is necessary to determine in advance the places for supplying water.

The number of points of consumption depends on the location of the beds, greenhouses, summer showers, baths, pools. In order not to transfer the hose from place to place, it is more reasonable to bring pipes out at 5-10 points. Hose sections 3-5 m long are connected to such hydrants, which ensures watering of each individual zone. At all points of consumption, a bayonet is mounted for quick connection of a hose or an automatic spray system.

Before cutting off hoses or sawing pipes, you should carefully measure the required length with a tape measure, put marks with a marker, and only then proceed with cutting. This approach, according to the principle of measure seven times - cut once, will save you from annoying mistakes and additional costs.

What materials, devices and tools are required for arranging a summer water supply

For the installation of a summer water supply in a summer cottage, the following materials and tools will be required:

1. Pipes and hoses.
2. Fittings and tees.
3. Compression couplings with external thread (20; 1/2).
4. Adjustable wrench, gas wrench, wrenches No. 17-24.
5. A special cutter for plastic water pipes or a hacksaw for metal.
6. Shovel.
7. Soldering iron. If you plan to connect pipes by welding, instead of fittings and a gas wrench, use a special electric soldering iron. Soldering irons are inexpensive, and some hardware stores even rent them out.
8. Ball valve 1/2.
9. Corner compression 20 mm.
10. Tee compression 20 mm.
11. Saddle 63 (1/2).
12. Fumnitka.
13. Adjustable wrench, gas wrench and wrenches No. 17-24.
14. sanding paper.
15. Knife, tape measure, pencil.

Pipes

Pipes for assembling a summer water supply system on an average summer cottage with an area of ​​​​10 acres are preferably plastic or polyethylene (diameter 20-25 mm, length 100 m). Reliable uninterrupted water supply largely depends on the quality of the pipes. Green polypropylene pipes from Banninger with a diameter of 25 mm have proven themselves well. They are more expensive than traditional white pipes, but they are resistant to temperature changes and can even withstand frost.

Hoses

Hoses can be used instead of pipes.

Rubber hoses with thick walls reinforced with nylon fibers are stronger and more durable, they will reliably serve for 15 years.

Fittings and tees

The wiring of summer water pipes is carried out using tees, and special fittings are best suited for connecting plastic pipes. The use of fittings allows you to assemble a country water supply in just one day. In this case, the joint is sealed, and if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

Scheme of a collapsible summer water supply from hoses

The simplest design is summer water supply from flexible hoses. The collapsible hose system is quite simple. With the onset of heat, the hoses are connected to the pump and laid on the surface of the earth so that they do not interfere with free movement around the summer cottage.

Hoses are rubber and silicone. To connect them, use purchased or homemade devices: steel and plastic adapters, jumpers, pieces of pipes or special latches that allow you to quickly disconnect or connect two pieces of water supply. On the one hand they have a spring connector, and on the other - "ruff". This brace provides a strong and reliable connection.

Now they produce non-twisting hoses with special reinforcement. There are corrugated hoses that can stretch to a considerable length and are very compact when compressed.

Hoses and accessories for drip irrigation appeared on sale.

Basically, water supply from hoses is used for watering in the country. In autumn, the hoses and the pump are folded and put away into the room.

Summer plumbing assembly procedure

Determine where to place the leads: entrance to the greenhouse, platform for the car, Summer shower, washbasin, swimming pool, flower garden, etc. The hose is more convenient to attach and remove at an intersection or on a wide path.

Measure the distance and calculate the required pipe length. For the arrangement of summer water supply, plastic or polyethylene pipes are best suited. It is convenient to connect them with flexible hoses. This design of the water supply, if necessary, is easy to redo. You can connect pipes with special plastic fittings or by soldering. In addition, to assemble a summer water supply, you will need tees, taps, corners.

It is advisable to dig pipes in order to preserve and increase their service life.

Check the pressure in the pipeline. If from a fully open tap water flows under good pressure, then pipes of small cross section - 20 mm are enough. At low pressure (less than 2 bar) do not install more than three output points, as they will not be able to work simultaneously. At low pressure, it is recommended to take a larger pipe - with a section of 25 mm. Larger pipes are also used for large plots over 30 m long.

As a rule, at the junction of the central line and the pipeline of the site, an inlet valve or valve with a diameter of 1/2 (marking 15) is installed with internal thread.

The HDPE pipe is attached to the inlet valve with a coupling. If the tap is with an internal thread, then, accordingly, the coupling is with an external one, and vice versa.

A tee is placed at the fork in the pipe, from the tee - a piece of pipe, on which a hose is put on through a tap with an adapter. For a pipeline with a diameter of 20 mm, the kit is suitable:

• coupling with external thread 20 mm to 3/4,
• 3/4 tap with external or internal thread,
• adapter for 3/4 hoses with female thread.

For pipes with a cross section of 25 mm, the following accessories are used:

1. A crane from the same HDPE 25 to 3/4.
2. Adapter for hoses with external thread 3/4.

You will also need:

1. Coupling for inlet valve.
2. Tees.
3. Kits for fixing hoses at outlet points.
4. Pipes.
5. Fum-tape for sealing threaded connections.
6. Elbows for installation at pipe bends.

First of all, all threaded connections are assembled.

The main task when assembling threaded connections is to prevent leakage. In a threaded connection, on one side there is an external thread, on the other - an internal thread. A fum-tape is wound tightly and without folds along the external thread in 6-8 layers clockwise (the thread is turned up). Then the parts are screwed in, tightly pressing one to the other, trying not to warp. Then lightly tighten with a gas wrench.

For fixing in the coupling, the pipe is evenly cut with a knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw to get a smooth edge. Slightly loosen the clamping nut. Insert the pipe tightly. In this case, the pipe at a depth of approximately 5 cm first abuts against the rubber sealing ring inside the coupling. It is necessary to push the pipe another 2 cm further so that the pipe passes through the ring until it stops. Then tighten the clamping nut by hand.

The hose can be connected to the water supply using quick couplings. Couplings come in various modifications, the main thing is that they match the diameter of the hose. All kinds of watering guns, sprayers are sold complete with couplings.

Very handy couplers with aquastop, which shuts off the water when disconnecting or replacing watering or gun, eliminating the need to turn off the faucet.

Summer water supply can be equipped with a timer, and then watering will be carried out according to the schedule, even in the absence of the owners.

Plumbing for year-round use

Most often, water from a well is supplied using a submersible pump. Pump power is selected depending on the depth of the well. For a depth of 10 m, "aquarius" or "brook" is suitable. To draw water from a well, you will need a much more powerful pump.

When installing a year-round water supply in the country, the pump is connected to a voltage source, and the cable and water supply are laid together in a single casing assembled from plastic sewer pipes. The casing serves to protect the water supply from mechanical damage and freezing.

The depth of the trench for laying the water supply should be below the freezing level of the soil. Digging such a trench is a laborious task. You can make the task easier by digging a trench to a depth of 60 cm, and pour a layer of insulation 20-30 cm thick on top of the pipe. Sufficiently strong materials with low moisture absorption are used as insulation: foam chips, polyethylene, furnace slag, expanded clay .

A pit 70x70 cm and a depth of 1 m is dug near the well. The pit serves to connect the pump to the water supply, and, if necessary, quickly disconnect and remove the pump. The walls of the pit are lined with bricks or reinforced with antiseptic impregnated boards. The bottom is poured concrete mortar or covered with rubble and compacted. A water pipe with a “ruff” for a hose connected to the pump, as well as an electric cable, is brought out and fixed into the pit.

To prevent the water in the pump hose from freezing, the pit is insulated. A small drain hole with a diameter of about 1 mm is made in the lower part of the water supply system, thanks to which the water in the water supply system slowly flows into the pit and does not freeze in winter.

The disadvantage of this scheme is the constant humidity in the pit and a slight loss of water.

To safely turn the pump on and off, install a waterproof socket or use a sealed contact connector.

In the conditions of the street, ordinary cranes with crane boxes are most often installed, and even better, bronze or cast-iron valves. It is undesirable to use ball valves; under the influence of precipitation and temperature fluctuations, they quickly fail.

The most complex unit of the year-round water supply is the fountain unit located in an unheated room. Most often, special devices are used for such purposes - water columns. A significant disadvantage of the column is the high cost of equipment and the complexity of installation.

How to install an autonomous water supply

If there is a central highway, then installing a summer water supply on your site is not difficult. Autonomous water supply is a more difficult task.

Ideally, an autonomous water supply scheme is drawn up in parallel with the design of a house and a plot: they determine the location of pipes and mechanisms, carry out a phased plan, calculate an estimate, and purchase equipment. For a boiler-water meter unit, they usually allocate small room area of ​​2-3 m² on the ground floor. It is convenient to monitor and regulate the water supply process if the technical unit and the water inlet unit are installed in the same room.

The autonomous water supply system includes the following equipment:

1. Pipes (metal, metal-plastic, polypropylene).
2. Fittings and taps.
3. Water-lifting equipment (pumping station, submersible pump).
4. Pressure control devices in the plumbing system (pressure gauge, pressure switch, accumulator or expansion tank).
5. Electrical equipment with automatic protection.
6. Filters for water purification from harmful impurities and suspended particles.
7. Water heater (preferably storage).

Installation of pumping equipment

A pre-prepared well, a capturing spring chamber, a well are used as a source of water. Each source has advantages and disadvantages. For example, in a well, the water is cleaner, but drilling is expensive. It is much cheaper to dig a well and install a submersible pump with a three-stage water filter.

There are the following types of pumping equipment for drawing water from a source:

1. Submersible pump.
2. Surface pump.
3. Automatic pumping station.

Submersible pump

It is used at a water level of 20 m, it works silently. Pump models with a non-return valve additionally require a hydraulic accumulator, a filtration unit, an automatic unit and a dilution unit with fittings. For contaminated water sources, it is recommended to choose a pump with a stainless metal impeller.

Surface pump

They are used at a water level of less than 8 m. Installed indoors, connected to a well with a supply pipe.

Automatic pumping station

The electric motor and the hydraulic part are separated by a partition. A generator, diesel or gasoline, is used to pump out groundwater and irrigate the site. The station includes: a pump, a hydraulic accumulator and an automation unit. The hydraulic accumulator serves as a reserve tank and limits the frequent activation of the pump. Inexpensive stations are noisy, so it is better to install new generation pumping equipment.

Installation of a stationary summer water supply

For a permanent structure, plastic or polyethylene HDPE pipes are used, which are connected with flexible hoses.

Such a connection allows you to easily and quickly redesign and improve the entire pipeline system. Another installation method is welding with an electric soldering iron or connecting with special plastic fittings. Pipes are laid in shallow grooves (30-35 cm) and fall asleep.

Only cranes are brought to the surface of the earth. Advantages: no obstruction when walking, mowing the lawn and using the trolley, more aesthetic appearance. If desired, pipes or hoses are easy to dig out and disassemble. The disadvantage of underground construction is that there is a possibility of accidental damage to the system during excavation.

To make it easy to drain water from the pipeline in autumn, create a slight slope for draining. A valve is installed in the lowest part of the water supply system: through which it is drained so that frozen water does not break pipes and hoses in winter.

It is especially important to ensure the safety of the electrical network. For this purpose, sealed connectors and waterproof sockets are used.

Plumbing of any type, summer collapsible or permanent, should be done in such a way that it is easy to eliminate unforeseen breakdowns without resorting to the complete dismantling of the plumbing.

How to assemble a summer water supply from plastic pipes

When arranging a summer water supply system in conditions of positive air temperature and using only cold water, almost all types will do. polypropylene pipes. The service life of PN-10 pipes, designed to supply water with a temperature of 30 ° C and an operating pressure of 11.1 kgf / cm 2, is 50 years; pipes PN-20, designed to transport hot water 60 ° C at an operating pressure of 10.9 kgf / cm 2, will last even longer.

The main part of the summer water supply is best made from 25 mm pipes. Pipes of smaller diameter do not provide structural rigidity. Pipes 2 m long fit easily on the trunk of a car. For the assembly of the water supply, straight and angled couplings are used. It is advisable to install a coarse filter at the entrance to the main line in the form of a separate unit or combined with a ball valve.

Summer water supply from HDPE pipes is the easiest to assemble and maintain. It is easy to assemble without special tools and does not deteriorate in winter (only the taps remain fully open for the winter).

To quickly disconnect the entire water supply from the central line, a coupling with a union nut, the so-called "American", is installed. Such a coupling allows, if necessary, to connect and disconnect both rigid and flexible lines without touching the threaded connections in other parts of the pipeline. You will need several outlets to secure the watering hose and a separate domestic outlet with 1/2 ball valves. Polypropylene pipes are connected to metal elements by means of combined transition fittings, which have a welding socket at one end and a thread at the other.

Pipes of 20 mm are quite suitable for supplying water to the shower room, they are fixed on the wall of the utility block with plastic clips at intervals of 1 m.

Almost all summer water pipes are freely laid directly on the surface of the earth. No need for special means protection of pipes from thermal deformation and stress.

Drainage of water from all lines of the summer water supply is organized as simply and conveniently as possible. It is advisable to install standard tees with plug plugs in the lowest places of the pipeline.

How to prepare plastic pipes for summer plumbing

If the relief of the suburban area is uneven, when laying pipes in some places of the water supply system, excessive stress is created due to a slight bend. For elimination high blood pressure it is enough to bend the pipe a little using a building hair dryer with a special nozzle.

When assembling the system, it is necessary to adjust the polypropylene pipes to the required length. For cutting plastic pipes with a cross section of up to 40 mm, special scissors are used. There are scissors for cutting pipes with a diameter of up to 75mm. But most often for plastic pipes of 50 mm or more, a roller cutter is used.

When working with a cutter, additional processing of the ends of non-reinforced pipes is not required. If the installation volume is small, it is quite possible to cut plastic pipes with a conventional hacksaw, electric jigsaw or "Bulgarian".

Preparing trenches for summer plumbing

The next stage in the arrangement of the water supply is the preparation of the trench. Its depth depends on the location of the pipes: 15-20 cm is enough for the lawn, and 40-70 cm for the beds. They start digging from the water source, then lay all the pipes in the trench and securely connect them together. After laying and docking pipes, check the plumbing for leaks. It should not be allowed to bend the water supply in short sections due to the possible stagnation of water. Then proceed to the connection of water-folding devices.

Water intake devices

If the pipeline is designed to supply water to the greenhouse, then cast-iron or bronze valves and taps with axle boxes are installed. Ball valves are not recommended, as they fail quite quickly.

The water assembly is the most complex device in the plumbing. It is equipped in an unheated room or on the street. The standpipe is used less frequently due to complex installation and high cost.

How does a soldering iron for welding plastic pipes

soldering irons available domestic production good quality and at a reasonable price, complete with a handy metal case, pipe cutters, tape measure and gloves. There are also less expensive modifications - without additional equipment and with fewer attachments.

Welding machine-soldering iron for polypropylene and polyethylene pipes consists of three main parts:

1. Soldering iron with heating element (plate with heating element) and control unit (switches, temperature relay, indicators).
2. Replaceable nozzles for heating pipes and fittings. They are bolted to the heating plate through special holes. The nozzles are made of aluminum alloy with anti-adhesion Teflon coating and require careful and careful handling. It is forbidden to clean them with metal brushes and abrasive products in order to avoid damage to the Teflon surface.
3. Stand for fixing the device during welding.

How to weld polypropylene pipes correctly

Diffusion welding of polypropylene pipes occurs due to partial surface melting of the parts to be joined when heated with welding machine. Working temperature when welding polypropylene is 260°C. In order for the welding joint to be strong, the parts to be welded must have the same properties. It is not recommended to weld pipes from different manufacturers.

Fittings and pipes of different brands differ in softening speed, diameter tolerance. The welding process itself is not complicated and takes a little time. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the time intervals allotted according to the instructions for each phase: heating - welding - cooling.

Both parts prepared for welding are simultaneously attached to the nozzles of the welding machine: the fitting is put on the mandrel nozzle, and the pipe is inserted into the coupling nozzle.

It is impossible to rotate and move the pipe and fitting during heating, so both parts are tried on relative to each other in advance and marked with colored markers for convenience. The heating time is counted after the completion of putting on the pipe and fitting on the nozzles.

At the end of heating, the parts are removed from the nozzles and connected: the end of the pipe is inserted all the way into the fitting socket. The countdown of the welding time starts from the moment the pipe is connected to the fitting. The connected parts are fixed and held motionless, preventing displacement during the welding time indicated in the instructions.

Refrigeration of parts is prohibited. compressed air or cold water.

The final phase is the cooling of parts. During this period of time, until complete cooling and restoration of the mechanical strength of the parts, it is impossible to load the connection.

After the end of the cooling stage, they start welding the following joints or installing the assembled unit in the allotted place. After testing the plumbing system, the pipes are sprinkled with earth or left on the surface.

Leads with taps are installed throughout the site, on which a piece of hose of the required length is attached in one motion. With the help of a variety of sprinklers, you can simultaneously water in several places at once.

Rules for servicing the summer water supply system

Along with the indisputable advantages of summer water supply, ease and speed of assembly, cost-effectiveness, there are some disadvantages - for example, the need to drain water for the winter and observe the slope of the pipes to the connection point. Otherwise, the water will freeze in the pipes and a defect in the part of the water supply will form. To drain the water at the lowest point of the system, a special valve is mounted. It is necessary to choose the correct slope, otherwise the water pressure will be weak.

If the water supply is ground, disassemble the structure with subsequent storage indoors. It is necessary to periodically check the condition of pipes and connecting elements and, if necessary, replace individual parts.

When arranging a permanent summer water supply, pipes and hoses are laid in the ground, with taps and switches brought to the surface. There is no need to dig the structure to a great depth. It is enough just to fill the pipeline with earth to ensure its safety and not create obstacles for walking.

What will be the summer water supply in the country - the simplest scheme from improvised materials or modern design with automatic control - everyone chooses for himself. In any case, the arrangement of the water supply system at the dacha will fully justify the efforts made and the funds spent. To paraphrase a classic: plumbing is not a luxury, but a means for irrigation. Thanks to the summer pipeline, water is supplied to the farthest corners of the garden, and then you can forget about heavy buckets and watering cans and spend your free time with family and friends.

We told how to organize a constantly updated source of water for irrigation on the site. In this article, we will consider issues related to the organization of water delivery from the source to the beds.

Working in the garden, contrary to popular belief, may well bring joy, the main thing is to organize everything correctly. There are many devices, tricks and tricks that make gardening much easier. In the article “Automatic irrigation system for the garden: a storage tank with water level control”, we talked about how to organize a constant source of water for irrigation in the country. Its mere presence is a good help for facilitating irrigation work. The next step, designed to further simplify the life of a summer resident, will be the arrangement of a summer water supply on the site. We will tell you how and from what you can and should make summer plumbing.

General recommendations on materials and components for summer plumbing

Before considering what materials it makes sense to assemble a distribution pipe system from, let's dwell on one more element, without which summer plumbing is impossible - shut-off valves, in a simple way, taps. They are installed on pipes at the beginning, immediately after the source, and at the end. At the beginning, they are necessary to completely shut off the water in the water supply, at the end they serve to temporarily shut off and adjust the pressure. Whatever material you install the taps from: cast iron, brass, polypropylene, there is one caveat - they should only be valves. This is due to the fact that, as you know, water for the winter from the summer water supply must be drained, otherwise, freezing and expanding, it will simply break the pipes. So, no matter how you get rid of moisture residues, a microlayer of water in the ball valve between the ball and the seat in which it is located will still remain. She will do her dirty work, and in the spring you will find the torn body of your crane. Valve taps simply do not have such a microlayer, therefore, they are spared this problem.

Let's get back to pipes. What is plumbing made from?

Steel pipes

Most known material. The whole system is mounted on threaded connections or by welding.

Pros: strength and durability.

Minuses: high price, installation complexity, fragility and inaccessibility - for such pipes you will have to specially go to the metal warehouse.

Conclusion: good material for summer plumbing, if you have plumbing or welding skills that allow you to mount them.

Metal-plastic pipes

Sold in bays, usually white color. They are assembled on special metal fittings.

Pros: availability - they are sold in any plumbing store, ease of installation.

Minuses: fragility - in the conditions of operation in the open air, such pipes serve no more than three years, a rather high price.

Conclusion: a good temporary option, as a possible partial replacement for a failed permanent water supply.

Polypropylene pipes

Plastic pipes are gray or white, quite elastic. They are assembled by welding with a special soldering iron. It can be bought or rented from almost any plumbing store.

Pros: strength, ductility, durability, ease of installation, availability, low price.

Minuses: They are not here.

Conclusion: ideal for summer plumbing. Polypropylene is resistant to sunbeams and plastic, which greatly increases its chances of surviving the winter, even if water is frozen inside the pipe.

Low pressure polypropylene pipes - HDPE

These are black pipes sold in coils. They differ from ordinary polypropylene pipes in a smaller wall thickness and installation method - the system is assembled on special clamp fittings.

Pros: plasticity, durability, ease of installation, availability, low price- HDPE pipes lose in cost only to polypropylene pipes.

Minuses: low strength.

Conclusion: quite suitable option. The only thing it requires is inlet pressure control.

Let's summarize. The best option for arranging a summer water supply will be polypropylene pipes, it is better to stop on them. All stop valves should be only valves and, preferably, from the same material as the pipes themselves.

Principles of installation of summer water supply

We decided on the question of what to do, now let's decide how to do it. The first stage is theoretical.

Summer plumbing topology

On a sheet of graph paper, draw your existing or future garden. Note the water source. Your task is to lay pipes, that is, draw straight lines on a sheet so that their total length is minimal and they do not cross the beds. In this case, several nuances must be taken into account.

The draw-off points should either be separate for each bed, if they are at a considerable distance from each other, or one point for two, maximum three beds, if they are nearby. Moreover, each point should be no further than 1-2 m from the serviced beds.

Each turn of the pipe leads to a drop in water pressure in the system. With a large number of them, you run the risk of not getting water at all. The ideal option is the "star" system, where a straight pipe is laid to each point of water intake from the source. True, in this case, most of the material will go away and this can not always be done without crossing the beds. The main system is also good, where one straight pipe is laid along the garden, and pipes are diverted from it to the beds. In this case, so that there is no significant pressure drop, the line should be made of pipes two sizes larger than the supply pipes. That is, if you are laying a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, and it doesn’t cost less, then the lines must be mounted from a pipe of 32 mm. In the “star” water supply system, all pipes are laid with the same diameter, at least 20 mm.

Draw a wiring diagram. It took into account not only existing, but also future beds. Let's move on to the practical part.

Summer plumbing installation

If you draw on graph paper the entire wiring of the summer water supply system on a scale, then it will be quite easy to estimate the amount of material and components required. But before proceeding directly to the work, one more question should be decided: how will we lay the pipes?

For summer water pipes, pipes are laid in two ways:

1. Open. All pipes will go along the surface of the earth.

Pros: the water supply is open, available for repair and constant monitoring, it is easy to drain the water for the winter, for this it is enough to open the tap and lift the opposite end of the pipe, there is no risk of accidental damage.

Minuses: pipes open to negative impact environment, unaesthetic appearance, pipes can interfere with free movement.

2. Closed. Pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 50 cm.

Pros: the pipes are protected from the negative effects of the environment by a layer of earth, the whole system looks neat.

Minuses: difficult to repair and upgrade, more difficult to manufacture, requires the organization of a special system for draining water for the winter.

The last question should be dealt with separately. As noted above, it is necessary to drain the water so that it does not break the pipes when it freezes. If everything is quite clear with an open water supply, then for a closed one it is necessary to equip special drain points - pits. In order for water to flow out, pipes must be laid with a slight slope. At the lower points, pits are made. Drain valves are installed at the ends. Accordingly, in the fall, water is drained from the tank or the tap is closed at the inlet to the system, the taps at the ends of the pipes are opened, and the drain taps are opened. The water flows down the slope into the pit. Everything, the system is dehydrated.

How to do plumbing, it's up to everyone to decide for themselves. Assembling it will not be much different from the system mounted inside the house. In any case, if you do not have the appropriate skills, it is better to turn to the services of specialists. Your task is to monitor the quality of the work and the fulfillment of the requirements listed above.

Accessories for water supply connections with watering devices

The plumbing is ready, you can use it. Various devices can be used to connect irrigation equipment to it. The simplest and most popular today are combinations of metal or plastic fittings, on which hoses are put on, tightened with a clamp.

Recently, the so-called quick connectors are gaining popularity. They are great because they are versatile. Dividers, couplings, splitters, watering installations, they all have a connection to the hoses through quick couplings.

The principle of operation is quite simple. A coupling is installed on the end of the hose with a hose collet at one end and a quick-release mechanism at the other. Now any device that has a quick-release fitting as a connection will easily connect with a simple snap. Similarly, you can connect two hoses with a connecting fitting.

Having completed the installation of the summer water supply, you are one step closer to the equipment of the cottage with an automatic irrigation system. It remains to do the last thing - to organize individual watering for each bed. This will be the topic of the third and final article of our series.

It is unlikely that today someone will be satisfied with work or rest in the country, where there is no water. You don’t wash your hands, you don’t bathe yourself, you don’t water the garden normally, but it’s pointless to talk about ensuring the maximum comfort of living: a sink in the kitchen, a shower and bath in the house, a toilet, a washing machine and other delights of civilization. Therefore, the first thing that every summer resident cares about is autonomous water supply to the dacha. What is the scheme of the water supply system, how to choose the right pump or pumping station, how to install and connect them, as well as laying external and internal water supply - this is just an approximate plan for research and action, and this is our article.

The water supply of the dacha includes several elements that provide water intake from the source, its delivery to the premises, accumulation and purification, heating and delivery to each consumer. Consider an approximate scheme of the water supply system of the cottage:

1. Source of water intake (well, well or reservoir).
2. A pipeline leading from a water source to a utility room or house. It must be equipped with a tap for draining the water back from the system, in case of a breakdown or departure during the cold season, so that the water in the pipes and appliances does not freeze.
3. A pump or pumping station for drawing water from a source.
4. coarse filter and check valve in front of the pumping station.
5. Fittings that ensure the normal operation of the system. This is ball valve, pressure gauge, pressure switch, etc.
6. A hydraulic accumulator is a water tank with which you can control the system, turning the pump on and off. In addition, there is always a supply of water in the accumulator in case of a power outage.
7. Fine filters. Equipment for water treatment and water treatment. The filter complex is selected after studying the chemical composition of the water from the source. You can do this at the health facility. By the way, filters can be installed before the accumulator so that it contains only clean water. Water for watering the garden, washing the car and other technical needs does not need to be cleaned, so you can run a drain pipe, bypassing the water treatment equipment.
8. Water heaters or boilers for hot water.
9. Water distribution inside the country house. Can be done different ways: sequentially or with the help of a collector, when a separate pipe goes to each consumer.

This is just an approximate water supply scheme for a summer residence. It can be supplemented, remove some elements. For example, a hydraulic accumulator is quite expensive, so many people decide not to use it. The sequence of elements in the diagram may also differ slightly depending on the type of pump and the source of water intake.

What source of water supply for a summer residence to choose

The water supply system in the country always begins with a source. Well, if you have purchased a cottage with a ready-made well or a well of good quality. If there is no water source on your site, then you first have to think about how to make it.

Before deciding what to build: a well or a well, and how deep, talk to your neighbors. Ask them what they have, if they are happy, if there is enough water and what quality it is. Sometimes it is better not to philosophize too much, but to take advantage of the experience of others. You can also take water samples from neighbors for analysis to make sure its quality.

Well- the oldest artificial source of water supply. If the aquifer with high-quality, edible water, in sufficient volume (for a family of 4 people) is within 4 - 15 m of depth, then it makes sense to equip a well. It will cost less than a well, since you only have to pay for materials, the rest can be done on your own. He also more durable than a well(service life up to 50 years). And one more indisputable advantage is that in the absence of electricity, water in it can be scooped up with an ordinary bucket. There is one drawback of wells: perched water can get into it, reducing the quality of water. But this can be avoided by properly waterproofing the joints between the rings and the place where the pipe enters the well.

In some regions, it is customary to hit wells exclusively. Do it by different reasons: either good water is close (an underground river or a source), or vice versa - groundwater is too low (more than 15 m).

Well "on the sand" affects the upper layers of the sandy horizon. This is the very first edible aquifer underground layer. It is located after dense loam, which filters ground, melt and rain water. Due to the fact that in different regions this layer is located at different depths, the depth of the well “on sand” can be from 10 m to 50 m. The water supply in such a well is 500 liters. The service life is about 5 years, as the filters become clogged with sand and silt. But this is very individual, because depending on the terrain, at a depth of even 15 m, you can get into an underground river, and the source is inexhaustible, and the filters do not clog. Service life can reach 20 years or more. It is best to hit the well "on the sand" manually, and look for a place using old-fashioned methods. As practice has shown, it is more likely to find an aquifer with high-quality water. If machine drilling is used, such a layer can simply be “skipped”.

Artesian well uses water from a limestone layer, which can be located at different depths, from 35 to 1000 meters or more. In limestone rocks, water is of high quality, its minimum supply is 1500 liters, and the maximum is practically unlimited. Most often, for personal needs, such wells are rarely equipped and up to a maximum of 135 m deep. Firstly, it is necessary to obtain permission for an artesian well and register it, since this aquifer is considered the property of the state. Secondly, its construction is much more expensive than a sand well and lasts from several days to a month. An artesian well excludes the possibility of water and groundwater getting into it, and its service life is close to that of a well, i.e. 50 years. An artesian well makes sense to clubbing with other neighbors.

If you decide to equip a well in the country, and not a well, be sure to ask to perform calculations of its debit. This is necessary in order to choose the right pump or pumping station.

Pumps and pumping stations for water supply - how to choose

Choosing the right pump for country water supply is one of the most important tasks.

Pumps are submersible and superficial. Submersible pumps are also called deep, they can pump water from a depth of 10 to 150 m. They are located in deep wells or wells. Surface pumps are installed in a house or utility room, they pump from a depth of up to 9 m.

To arrange water supply in the country, it makes sense to purchase a pumping station, which already includes a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, a pressure switch and a supply hose. Often such a station can be purchased anywhere.

The most common is pumping station with centrifugal self-priming pump with built-in ejector. Such a pump can suck in water from a depth of up to 9 m and deliver it up to 40 m. It is very simple to start the pump: open the filler cap, pour water into it to overflow, close and turn on the pump. First, it will pump air, and then supply water to the system. The advantage of such a station is the low sensitivity to air in the system, it is enough to open the cock / valve on the pump to bleed it. Such a unit is suitable for taking water from a well or a shallow well. It can be installed in a pit or caisson directly above a water source and supply water with a pressure of up to 40 m, or it can be installed in a house if a well or a well is very close.

Pump stations with centrifugal self-priming pump with external ejector used for pumping water from deep wells or wells (up to 45m), or located far from home. The stations themselves are installed in a house or utility room, two pipes lead from it, at the end of which an ejector is attached, and lowered into a water source. One pipe supplies water to the ejector to create suction, and the second pipe supplies water to the house. The disadvantage of such a station is the sensitivity to air in the system. And the advantage is that the station can be placed inside the house, and the ejector in the source of water intake at a distance of 20 - 40 m from the house.

When choosing a pump, pay attention to an extremely important characteristic - suction lift. Some indicate a height of 8 m, and others 20 - 45 m. Please note that a pump suction head of 8 m does not mean that it cannot be used for a well 15 m deep. The fact is that even in a deep well the water is much higher, at a depth of 2 - 6 m. This is due to the fact that the depth of groundwater is higher than the depth of the well, and according to the rule of communicating vessels, the water in the well rises.

Before you make water supply in the country and buy a pumping station, calculate the performance of your water source, check the level of the mirror, the pressure in the system and the volume of water consumption. For uninterrupted water supply at home the value of the performance of the pumping station should be lower than the productivity of the water source (well or well), but more than the possible consumption / flow of water. To calculate water consumption, you can use the data from the table by simply summing up the water consumption in several consumers that can work simultaneously. Next, you need to calculate the pressure loss depending on the length and diameter of the pipeline.

Important! You can find out the productivity of a well or a well empirically by pumping out of it with a motor pump and a conventional surface pump water and measuring its quantity. A mirror of water can be recognized by lowering a nut on a string into a water source, and then measuring the length.

After receiving the necessary data, you can proceed to the selection of a pumping station, all parameters will be indicated in the passport. Pay attention to the presence of a check valve and an inlet filter.

Do-it-yourself water supply for a summer house

Do-it-yourself arranging the water supply of a cottage with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it might seem. Let's assume that we already have a source of water supply, either inherited from the previous owners, or you yourself dug a well or drilled a well. All that remains is to complete all the installation work of the pump, pipeline and other equipment.

Installation of external water supply in the country

For the well. The first step is to dig a trench from the foundation of the house to the well, preferably without bends. Since the pipeline can freeze in winter, it must be located at a depth of 1.5 - 2 m (the depth of soil freezing in the Russian Federation). You can lay the pipe even higher, but then it should be carefully insulated, for example, wrapped with an electric heating cable.

In the second ring of the well we make a hole for the pipe. By the way, you can use plastic pipes, PVC, polyethylene, polypropylene, steel and others. It is advisable to choose those that do not crack from frost. We connect pipes with a diameter of 32 mm to each other. At the bottom of the trench we pour a layer of sand 15 cm.

Important! Installation of water supply in the country implies that it is necessary to slope the pipeline towards the water source. If the summer house will not be used in winter, then all the water from the system must be drained. To do this, a drain cock should be installed at the turn of the pipe in the well.

We lead the pipe section into the hole in the ring, bend the pipe and lower it down to the surface of the water. We insert a strainer inside the pipe. We place the pipe at a height of 30 - 40 cm from the bottom of the well. To fix the pipe, we pump out all the water from the well with a pump, drive a pin into the bottom and fasten the pipe to it.

Then it is necessary to carefully waterproof the hole in the ring so that the top water does not get through it. We fill the pipes in a trench with a 15 cm layer of sand, then with soil, and around the well at a distance of 1.5 m with a depth of 40 cm we make a clay castle.

For a well. All work on digging a trench and laying pipes is no different. It is only above the well itself that it is necessary to equip either a pit or a caisson so that the pipes and the pump do not freeze if it is intended to be installed directly above the well.

Consider installing a caisson. We dig a well pipe 2.5 m deep and 2 times wider than the diameter of the caisson. We compact the bottom of the pit and fill it with concrete with a layer of 20 cm, it will bear the weight of the caisson. We install a caisson in the pit. We cut the well pipe at a height of 50 cm above the bottom of the caisson. At the same depth, we make a hole in the caisson for laying the pipeline. Next, you need to connect the pumping station.

We fill the caisson outside with concrete with a layer of 30 - 40 cm, then we fill it with sand and cement mixed, and the remaining 50 cm with soil.

Connecting a pumping station to a well

If the pump is remote, then it can be installed directly in the caisson. If the water is close, the well too, then you can install a pumping station in the house, and only bring a supply pipe into the caisson or pit and connect it to the well pipe. A faucet for draining the system down should also be provided here.

As an example, we install a pump in the caisson, connect it to the well pipe, connect the pipe leading to the house to the pump itself. But the rest of the equipment: a hydraulic accumulator, a control relay, filters are installed in a house or outbuilding.

Connecting a pumping station to a well

For wells located close to the house and with a high water level, you can use a pumping station with a suction height of up to 9 m. It can be installed in the house itself, in the utility room or in the well itself. But for deep or distant wells, you can use a pump with an external ejector, then the station itself can be installed in the house, and the ejector can be lowered into the well.

The room where the pumping station for the well will stand must be insulated or heated, the temperature must not be lower than +2 ° С.

Before entering the pump, we install a tap for draining water, a coarse filter and a check valve. Then comes the pump, after which the fine filter with shut-off valves on both sides. This is necessary to replace the cartridge in the filter. Then a hydraulic accumulator, and after it you can install a water treatment and water treatment system.

After all the elements of the pumping station, water treatment, etc., we lead a 32 mm pipe to the cold water supply collector. Install in the collector Ball Valves and connect 25 mm pipes leading to consumers or consumer groups (as the internal water supply scheme suggests).

For internal wiring, steel pipes, metal-plastic, polypropylene and corrugated stainless pipes can be used. The latter are the most expensive, but also extremely easy to install. The best in terms of price and quality will be a water pipe made of polypropylene pipes. They are connected to each other and to fittings using an electric soldering iron, which is very easy to use and can be rented.

Important! The complexity of installing a water supply system in the country is that in winter, when the room is not heated, it is necessary to drain the water from the system. To do this, the entire pipeline must be installed with a slope.

Hot water supply in the country can be provided using a boiler or boiler. If the main gas is connected, it makes sense to install gas water heater. If not, then you can use an electric boiler. By the way, for an uninterrupted supply of hot water in the proper volume, provided that a gas boiler is used, it is also necessary to purchase an indirect heating boiler. For a family of 4 people, the volume of the boiler should be from 100 to 200 liters.

On the reverse side of the cold water supply collector, we divert the pipe to the water heater. We connect here. pipe with hot water, coming out of the water heater, we lead to the hot water collector, where we also install ball valves and a tap to drain the water.

In this article, we examined the option of stationary water supply in the country, which can be used both in summer and in winter. But if the house is not heated in winter, and its heating is turned on only when someone arrives, for example, once a week, then before the onset of frost and before each departure in winter, it is necessary to drain the water not only from the system, but also from each consumer. Even from the toilet tank washing machine etc. For summer plumbing, such difficulties are not needed. It can be made from garden hoses connected to each other and laid out on the surface of the earth. After the end of the season, water is drained from the hoses, they are twisted and removed to the utility room until the next season.

Water has been and remains the life-giving force of nature. And without it, certainly, it is impossible to imagine any modern house or bath.

The issue of water supply is especially acute when it comes to a summer cottage: here, in addition to rest, the lack of water can also affect the availability of a crop (the possibility of irrigation), the state of a personal plot and the operation of some household appliances. Great solution for water supply problems suburban area- summer plumbing.

1 Which is better to choose and conduct plumbing?

Summer water supply, as the name suggests, is used only during the warm period. It is needed for watering plants on the site, for various household needs and, of course, for supplying water to the house, to the summer kitchen, as well as to the bathhouse and filling artificial reservoir or the pool.

There are two types of pipelines of this type:

1. Collapsible plumbing.
2. Constant.

The first option is a collapsible summer supply water supply. If this installation scheme is used, then all hoses and pipes are not hidden in any way and simply lie on the ground. Such a water supply system is easily assembled, for example, from silicone hoses, for which fittings (steel or plastic) are used to connect.

Strengths:

• simple device and quick assembly;
• easy to find damage to HDPE polypropylene pipes and replace part;
• installation of a collapsible water supply will cost less than making a stationary one on the site.

Disadvantages:

• pipes and hoses can interfere with movement;
• easy enough to steal;
• the need to assemble and disassemble the device at the beginning and end of the season.

Another option is to use a fixed water supply. It is laid underground: in this case, pipes and hoses made of plastic are used. All communications are laid at an angle to the drain valve near the source of water supply. Before the cold starts, it is better to completely pump out the water from the system.

This water supply scheme implies that the pipes will lie at a shallow depth, and only water taps will come to the surface.

Advantages:

• pipes are hidden underground: they do not interfere with walking and any work;
• installation of such a design needs to be done only once;
• better protected from theft than collapsible water supply;
• an easy procedure for preparing the plumbing for the winter period.

Disadvantages:

• the device and, in fact, the equipment of such a system will cost more;
• installation will require some effort: the need to dig trenches, as well as lay pipes at a certain slope;
• difficulties with repairs due to the low availability of sections of polypropylene pipes.

1.1 Possible water sources that are better suited for summer plumbing

There are several options for water sources: in addition to the usual well, it is possible to use a well, a natural reservoir, as well as a rainwater reservoir and, in fact, use central water supply.

Summer water supply in the country with the use of central water supply is the most practical and convenient option. To do this, you need to connect to the main pipe: it is better to use an overhead tee, which is bolted. Then the installation takes place - the cranes are installed.

If you decide turn a natural body of water into a source of water for summer water supply, it must be remembered that direct supply to the house or bath is highly undesirable. In such cases, a filter should be used.

Connecting the water supply to the well. Wells that can be used in this case, are of two types:

1. Artesian. This option will provide cleaner water due to deep drilling of the well.
2. Sandy. The water speed is approximately two cubic meters per hour, which is quite enough for use in a summer cottage and a small private country house. However, there is a need for an additional filtration device.

The use of a well in this particular case is rather traditional. But at the same time, it has certain disadvantages: the low speed of water and the presence of impurities harmful to human health in it.

There is also the option of using a reservoir for melt and rain water as a source. In this case, drainage and downpipes are laid to the tank, barrel, pool or artificial reservoir.

2 What materials are used to create a do-it-yourself plumbing?

• First of all, these are pipes. More often they choose metal-plastic or polyethylene (HDPE), however, there is an option to use do-it-yourself and well-known steel pipes - this durable material is suitable if you have welding and plumbing skills;

HDPE pipes are one of the most good decisions, since this modern HDPE material is quite cheap, has a long service life, does not require cathodic protection and is not susceptible to corrosion. Therefore, more and more often HDPE pipes are used for summer water supply in a private house.

• instead of HDPE pipes, you can use a hose. Rubber samples, which are reinforced with nylon fibers, are one of the most durable and strong materials for these purposes;
• fittings and adapters (tees). Laying HDPE pipes is impossible without adapters, with the help of which HDPE pipes are routed. The use of special HDPE fittings allows you to assemble HDPE summer stationary water supply in a country house or a private house within one day with your own hands.

2.1 Do-it-yourself plumbing plan

The first thing to do in advance in a private house is to decide where the water should be supplied, where the water intake points will be located, as well as how many connections are needed.

It is important that this plan in a private house be specific: it is necessary to take into account where the paths, the house, the bathhouse, any other buildings are located, or what are the "obstacles" to the water supply.

If stationary water supply is planned in a private house, and at the same time there is a need to water the beds, there is a possibility of damage to the pipes, for example, with a shovel. This means that the depth of the trenches must be increased to 60-70 cm.

When you install a do-it-yourself water supply in a private house, it is important to remember the number of points of consumption. It depends on the location on the site of the house, the beds, the shower room, the presence or absence of a pool and a bath. In order not to have to move the hose from place to place, it is more reasonable to make a pipe outlet at 5-10 points. And to the hydrants, in turn, connect hose segments 4-5 meters long in order to ensure the irrigation of each individual zone.

2.2 What about in winter?

As it turned out, do-it-yourself summer water supply is not suitable for the cold period, but at the same time, the need for water in winter does not disappear.

How to deal with this problem with your own hands? To solve this problem, it is worth remembering a few basic rules in order to mount winter water supply in the country.

1. The water supply system in winter must be equipped with a conservation system. This is necessary to prevent freezing of water in the pipes. in a private house in order to avoid failure of the entire system.
2. Do-it-yourself pipe laying should be carried out lower than the depth of soil freezing.
3. To avoid freezing of the system, it is necessary to install a special water heating cable for pipes.
4. It is also important that when equipping a winter water supply, only a consistent method of piping should be used.

The main difference between the summer version of water supply and the winter one with your own hands is the presence of a water heating cable. It is installed inside a pipe segment that runs through unheated areas. Even in severe frosts, this will allow the system to function normally.

This cable comes with cable glands and a gland.

2.3 Do-it-yourself summer plumbing (video)

When purchasing a coveted summer cottage, a good owner will first of all begin to equip the water supply system and this will be true. Do-it-yourself summer water supply in the country is not so difficult to do. Indeed, without life-giving moisture, you will not only not be able to grow a normal crop, but any construction will be very difficult.

Even if you bring quickly mounted country houses from a block of containers, they will need some kind of small foundation, for which water is needed. Renting a diesel generator for a summer residence will solve the problem of energy supply for some time, but without water there will be little joy from this.

Where to get water

There are several traditional sources of moisture intake, which one is preferable for your site should be decided on a purely individual basis. We, in turn, will tell you about the most common.

Advice: if possible, it is better to start drafting a project with a survey of the nearest neighbors. Taking advantage of their experience and taking into account their mistakes, significant costs can be avoided.

good old well

If in your area the depth of the aquifer with a quality drinking water is within 3 - 15m, then you should not reinvent the wheel. The well will be the best solution for you.

The cost of arranging an average well will not be much higher than drilling a well for sand. If the site does not stand on rocks, then 2 - 3 people can dig a well in 1 - 2 weeks.

The most convenient way to do this is with the help of concrete rings, the first ring is installed in the pit and soil is selected from under it. As the structure deepens, it builds up.

Important: unlike a well, the service life of wells fluctuates around 50 years. Plus, in the event of a power outage, water from the well can be raised with a bucket.

well drilling

There are 2 types of wells, sand and artesian. The depth of the well on the sand, depending on the location, ranges from 10 to 50 m. The horizon can begin immediately behind the first layers of dense loam. The same loam acts as a natural filter, purifying groundwater and melt water.

The water supply depends on the thickness of the reservoir, but on average, up to 500 l can be obtained from such a well per day. A serious problem here can be clogging with sand or silt. submersible pumps and filtration systems.

Most often, such structures do not live long, from about 5 to 20 years. But if you get to a full-flowing underground river and equip the wellbore with high quality, then such a source can last longer.

Experts advise drilling such wells manually, and it is better to look for a place for drilling using old-fashioned methods. From experience, with this approach, the probability of finding a quality source increases significantly. With machine drilling, you can simply skip the desired horizon.

Water in artesian wells is extracted from the limestone horizon. It is of course more rigid, but it is distinguished by exceptional purity. The depth of occurrence here is not predictable.

In the rocks, you can stumble upon an underground lake already at 30 - 40 meters. But there is an option to drill more than 100 meters.

The arrangement of such wells is quite expensive and, as a rule, they are made together. In addition to serious financial investments, you will also need official permission from the authorities, because artesian water is the property of the state. But on the other hand, there is a high probability of providing ourselves with clean water over the next 50 years.

Alternative ways

simple and relatively reliable option, is to connect to an already finished trunk. Now it can be done directly under pressure. For this, an overhead tee with a ball valve is used.

The tee is bolted to the line, after which a hole is drilled in the pipe and the valve is quickly closed. Then you can mount the branch.

As an option, you can use water from natural reservoirs located nearby, but no one will give you a guarantee of purity. Therefore, such water is more suitable for irrigation. You can also collect rainwater in separate tanks, but of course we are not talking about any serious scale here.

Methods for arranging water supply

For irrigation and some household needs, you can install a temporary or stationary summer water supply system.

Demountable design

The collapsible version of the system is mounted from flexible silicone or rubber hoses. They are connected by metal or plastic adapters and connectors. Such accessories are not expensive, plus it is easy to make it yourself.

Speaking about the merits, it should be noted that the price of such a design will not be high, plus you can assemble it in a couple of hours. Any damage here can be quickly found and repaired.

But such a system is very vulnerable. The pipes in it, as a rule, lie directly on the ground or are mounted above the ground on special suspensions, so they are easy to damage.

At the end of the season, it will need to be dismantled and hidden, as there is a possibility of theft. Experienced summer residents know that the most unpleasant thing here is that everything will cling to these hoses.

Tip: for the installation of a temporary structure, experienced summer residents lay a collapsible line of HDPE pipes. It runs in the center of the site and is equipped with several nodes for connecting flexible silicone hoses. Such a system is much simpler and more practical, plus much less flexible hose is required.

Stationary summer system

Stationary water supply, of course, is more convenient than a collapsible one, since it is laid underground and will not interfere and spoil the landscape of the site. Do not be confused by the word stationary, the price of such a design will not be much higher than that of a temporary system. Of course, you will have to tinker with the arrangement, but believe me, it's worth it.

Another big plus is that a well-laid central line of the system can, if necessary, become the basis for arranging a winter water supply in the house.

• As in any business, you should start with the creation of a project. Here, the more carefully and scrupulously you write down and draw each node and sector of the system, the easier it will be to select equipment, materials and carry out installation.
• From experience, we can say that it is better to draw a sketch directly on the ground, that is, to independently go through every meter and turn of the highway. This will make it easier to calculate the number of connectors and determine how many connection points you need.

• The central line and branches by sectors can be made from polypropylene pipes or low-pressure polyethylene pipes HDPE. In terms of costs, these systems are approximately equal, the fact is that polypropylene pipes are more expensive than HDPE, but the price of couplings and connectors for HDPE equalizes the cost of the estimate.
• Also note that polypropylene pipes are soldered, therefore, you will need a power source. The design of HDPE pipes can be assembled without soldering.

Important: to install a system of polypropylene pipes, you will need a special soldering iron. Now many shopping centers they rent a soldering iron if you buy material from them, this is very convenient, since the system can be assembled in 1 - 2 days and is not spent separately on a soldering iron.

• If a total length system does not exceed 30 m, then pipes with a diameter of 20 mm are sufficient for its installation. But experts advise laying the central line with pipes with a diameter of 25 mm, and wiring in sectors can already be done with twenty-millimeter pipes. For a low pressure system, it is better to use 25 mm pipes completely.
• Installation instructions standard. All pipes must be placed taking into account the fact that for the winter the water from the system must be drained. That is, the entire system must go downhill and a valve or valve must be installed at the lowest point to drain the system. The lower point is made in the water intake area.
• If you mount the system for, then the depth of the bookmark is done in the region of 20 - 30 cm. For watering the beds, the pipe must be buried to a depth of about half a meter, so as not to damage it when digging with a shovel or cultivator.

• For the installation of a structure made of HDPE pipes, you will need special couplings equipped with internal and external threads. Although they already have O-rings, it is advisable to wind the fum-tape onto the thread, it is wound clockwise without wrinkles, 6 - 8 turns. This will significantly increase the density and hence the durability of the connection.
• The pipe is driven and pushed inside the coupling to a hard stop, this is about 50 mm. The coupling can be tightened by hand, but at the end it should be slightly tightened with a No. 2 gas wrench. In the same way, taps and tees for wiring are connected.
• For cutting plastic pipes, there are special scissors and roller cutters, thanks to which the cut is even and does not require additional processing.. But if you do not want to spend money on such a specialized tool, then you can use an ordinary hacksaw, however, in this case, the burrs on the cut are removed with a round file.

Tip: when purchasing a coupling for connecting a water gun or other sprinkler, it is better to take the so-called aquastop coupling, a valve is built into it, thanks to which you do not need to turn off the water when replacing the device.

• As a rule, the central highway is laid from the water intake to the house and conclusions are drawn from it to connect a flexible hose or wiring by sector. It makes sense to make it more thorough so that it is possible to supply water to the house if, for example, you decide to meet New Year in the country.
• Many experts advise that the pipe does not freeze, lay it deeper than the freezing level of the soil. But in some areas of our country, the level of freezing reaches 1.5 m, and this is quite difficult to do. It is much easier to bury the pipe to a depth of 30 - 50 cm and insulate it.
• For insulation, a bed of technical polyethylene is laid out at the bottom of the trench, you can take a cut plastic pipe large diameter. As an insulating filler, you can use any porous non-hygroscopic material, such as foam chips, slag or expanded clay.
• A special wire is attached to the main pipe itself.. When connected to the mains, it will heat up and will not allow the line to freeze during operation, pipes with a built-in heating thread are produced, but they are expensive.
• The pipe is laid on the insulation and covered with the same layer of insulation from above.. After that, the entire structure is closed with waterproofing and covered with soil.

Tip: it is better to take cast-iron, brass or bronze taps and valves for connecting in a house or greenhouse. Ball valves made of composite materials will not last long.

• When choosing a pump, please note that the passport indicates from what depth it can lift water. So, to the real depth of your well or well, you need to add the length of the irrigation distribution system at the rate of 1m of vertical rise.

The video in this article shows some of the intricacies of installing a water pipe.

Excellent article 0