Floor insulation with sawdust and their mixture with pva, clay, lime and other means. How to properly level the wooden floor in the apartment with your own hands Level the floor with sawdust and glue

In houses where the floor is not insulated, you have to pay much more for heating, because through it 20% percent of heat is lost.

In addition, the cold floor makes the overall climate of the room uncomfortable, because even at an air temperature of +20 degrees, the feet are still cold, because of which a person begins to freeze.

Cold floor also leads to serious colds, so it is very important to insulate it.

Briefly, we talked about floor insulation sawdust, now we will talk about this in more detail.

To determine the best way floor insulation, you need to figure out how heat escapes through it.

The operation of heating systems heats the air, which rises to the ceiling and partially escapes through it into the atmosphere.

Proper insulation of the ceiling reduces heat loss, but allows a small part of the air to escape, because this is necessary for maintaining optimal humidity.

More details about proper insulation ceiling read .

Air released into the atmosphere creates a vacuum in the rooms, due to which Fresh air penetrates inside both through windows and doors, and through various cracks and loose connections. Air entering from outside has a lower temperature than the air in the room, so the overall temperature is lowered by stirring.

If the house is insulated correctly, then as it passes through the insulation, the outside air gradually heats up, due to which the temperature difference decreases caused by his presence.

Air entering through the floor first passes near the foundation, then moves through cold underground space, due to which its temperature is much lower than the temperature of the air that entered the room in other ways.

Because of this, the influence of an uninsulated floor on the climate in a room is much higher than that of uninsulated walls, and this effect is manifested even if underground space is completely isolated from the street.

In this case circulation begins.

heated air rises to the ceiling and creates a local zone low pressure that sucks from the underground cold air.

Then the cold air descends to the floor and it is pulled into the subfloor by the rarefaction caused by the movement of warm streams.

Insulation cannot prevent circulation, because it due to the difference between the masses of cold and warm air , however, the speed of movement through the heater of air from the underground is sharply reduced, due to which it has time to heat up, which leads to a reduction in the temperature difference.

Basic types of floors

All floors can be divided by material grounds:

• concrete;
• wooden;
• iron.

Concrete floors are used in brick, stone, block and monolithic houses. Their advantage in high strength and in the fact that they, to some extent, perform the function of a reinforcing belt, tightening the walls and preventing them from being squeezed out under load.

Wooden floors are used where necessary minimize the weight of the building. They are less durable than concrete structures, but much easier to install, and also much cheaper.

Iron floors are used only in metal frame houses, so they are not widely used.

In addition, the floors can be divided and according to the shape and material of the rough coating gender:

• concrete screed;
• plywood or board;
• wooden logs covered with plywood or board.

When choosing a heating method, it is important to consider how design features load-bearing structure floor, and the movement of air in the underground space.

Otherwise fight against heat loss the floor will not only be ineffective, but will also lead to water settling on the supporting structure, due to which the latter will begin to collapse.

How are different types of bases insulated?

For each type of floor use own version sawdust insulation for best results. Therefore, we will talk about all the options, as well as the consequences of choosing the wrong way to reduce heat loss.

In addition, we will talk about the most suitable types of binders, because the use of sawdust alone does not give very good results.

Concrete

On this type of floor, two ways insulation:

• pouring screed;
• filling the spaces between wooden lags a mixture of sawdust with a binder.

First way they are used if self-leveling mixtures are used as a coating or a warm floor screed will be poured over the frozen insulation.

In addition, this method is also used where it is planned to lay on a concrete base or screed substrate for laying parquet or laminate.

Second way used for all coatings that require installation wooden poles(lag) separating the concrete of the base or floor screed from the coating.

Filling the screed

To prepare the solution you will need:

• fresh sawdust of any breed;
• lime;
• liquid glass;
• cement.

Ratio sawdust and cement depends on the load on the floor covering.

In the children's room where strong specific pressure is excluded, a 5:1 ratio can be used.

In other rooms, especially in those where many adults can gather at the same time, as well as where people with a lot of weight live, it is advisable to use a 2: 1 ratio.

Reducing the proportion of sawdust will give a hardened screed maximum strength, so even dancing and jumping up and down won't hurt her.

The ratio of cement and lime, as well as the reasons why lime should be used, can be found in .

Liquid glass it will additionally protect sawdust and give the screed waterproofing properties, but it will deprive it of the ability to pass air, but this is not required on a concrete surface, because there is no air movement between the base and the screed.

Optimal ratio liquid glass and water 1:20, while it is imperative to use plasticizers, otherwise the hardened screed will be fragile due to a large number water.

Before pouring the screed (a mixture of cement milk and sawdust), all furniture is taken out of the room and the flooring is removed to clean concrete base. If necessary, the base is repaired by filling small sinks with a solution, after which the floor is carefully swept and cleaned with a vacuum cleaner.

Then, along the entire contour of the insulated space, they are glued damper tape to protect the screed from cracking during thermal expansion. After that, beacons are placed, that is, slats along the entire length of the filled space, exposing them to the level both along and across.

If the beacons are made of aluminum, then no processing is required, wooden slats need to be processed aseptic and hydrophobic materials. The optimal distance between beacons is 1–1.5 m.

Having prepared the floor, knead required amount solution, then moisten the surface of the concrete and pour the screed pouring out ready solution in the space between the lighthouses and leveling with a heavy board that is moved along the lighthouses.

If you can't fill all the space at once, then you need to support the flooded solution with planks, the height of which is equal to the height of the beacons, and then walk the board again.

This will ensure a smooth and smooth surface without elevation changes.

In addition, cross rails must be installed every 7-8 meters, this will protect the screed from thermal expansion.

After pouring a screed of cement and sawdust should last at least a week, after which the coating can be laid on it. However, full strength will come after 25 days, so if possible, it is advisable to wait with laying the coating.

Filling the space between the lags

This method is used where logs are already installed on a concrete base and rough coating. In the process of preparation, all furniture is taken out of the room, then carefully remove clean and rough flooring while checking their status. Then they check the condition of the base and the log, including the quality of the fastening.

If the logs are not attached to concrete, then it is better to use the previous method for insulation, because its only drawback is a long curing time.

If you need to quickly or more effectively insulate a room, then you can independently put logs that differ from beacons only in width (50 mm) and the distance between them (40–60 cm, depending on the type of rough flooring).

The technology of filling the space between the lags on a concrete base differs from pouring the screed only with an astringent and general proportions. For such work, you can use any type of binder, because the insulation will not experience any load. Therefore, you can use both gypsum or clay, and PVA for the manufacture of screeds and putties.

The optimal ratio of binder and sawdust is 1:10. With this proportion, the mechanical strength of the insulation is low, but thermal insulation properties are maximum.

When used as a binder clay, it is necessary after filling the space between the lags with a warming mixture wait a week by carefully ventilating the room.

During this time, the solution will dry out and settle a little, after which it is desirable fill the space between the lags the second layer of the solution, this will increase the thermal insulation properties of the insulation.

Then you need to wait another week for the excess moisture to evaporate and only after that you can install a rough coating.

Wooden: application of PVA glue, lime, clay

The main disadvantage of this type of floors is free movement of air between the lags, as a result of which the cold penetrates into the room through any cracks, including between the wall and the baseboard.

Therefore, to insulate the floor with sawdust, for example, in wooden house, it is very important not only to fill the space between the lags with insulation, but also seal all possible cold air passages past the heater.

Clearing the room of furniture remove the finish and rough coat, then check their condition and determine if these materials can be reused or if partial/total replacement is necessary.

Then define lining attachment method. To do this, subtract the desired thickness of the insulation from the width of the log.

If it turned out less than five cm, then the lining must be fixed to the bottom surface of the log using self-tapping screws. However, this can only be done where the distance from the ground to the log exceeds 50 cm, while the logs themselves are attached to the walls, and do not rely on poles or bedside tables.

If the distance is greater, or the height of the lag above the ground does not allow you to install a lining from below, you can use cranial bars or metal corners, which are attached to the bottom of the lag.

Then the lining is laid on the bars or corners.

Moreover, when using corners, the distance from the top of the log to the lining is 2.5-3 cm more, because optimal size cranial bars 35x35 mm.

Fasten the bars and corners with self-tapping screws, do not use nails, because they do not provide reliable fixation. As a lining you can use plywood or other similar material 10 mm thick, cut to size.

Having prepared the logs and closing the space between them with a lining, cover the resulting cavities vapor permeable waterproofing film , which is convenient to fix with a construction stapler. After that, the cavities can be filled with a mixture of sawdust and clay with the addition of lime.

This composition provides best air movement, thanks to which the space under the floor will not become damp, because the circulation of air masses in the room will draw moisture from the underground. Due to the slow speed of passage through the insulation, the air will be heated to a comfortable temperature, which will relieve you of the feeling of a cold floor.

If the underground in the house is equipped with ventilation, then any other compositions can be used, because the excess moisture will be removed by the air passing through the underground space.

Most mixture is preferred sawdust and PVA glue, because such a composition has a lower specific gravity and maximum heat-insulating ability.

It's very important to get it right seal the joists. To do this, measure the distance between them and the walls. If it is 5 cm or less, then it is filled with polyurethane mounting foam. If the distance is greater, then from below any convenient way they fix the lining (it is advisable to do this before installing the lining in other areas) and fill it with the same composition.

If you use a mixture of sawdust with cement, gypsum or PVA, then you can lay the coating 20–30 minutes after pouring/backfilling insulating material (the only condition is the maximum ratio of sawdust and binder, as well as the minimum amount of water).

If you used a clay-based composition, then you must proceed as described above.

There is another way to insulate and level a wooden floor using sawdust and binders, allowing do without the installation of a lining.

Most often, it is used where it is necessary not only to insulate, but also to level the boardwalk, unless the height difference does not exceed 5 cm per 1 meter or 15 cm per length or width of the room.

For this remove fine and rough coating, check and, if necessary, repair the logs, then return the coating to its place.

Next stage- installation of lighthouses of small thickness (up to five cm) in level.

After that prepare a mixture of PVA and sawdust, with which they level the floor along the beacons. After the glue has completely hardened, such a floor can be covered with linoleum, parquet, laminate or other modern materials.

If the lag width is not enough to create thermal protection required thickness, then instead of lining between the lags put gutters, made of plywood 10 mm thick, reinforced with slats with a section of 30x30 mm. Some craftsmen use galvanized iron roofing instead of plywood and bars to make the gutter.

The use of gutters is especially effective where logs are installed. on brick/block pedestals or the height of the floor does not allow mounting the lining from below.

Each gutter is attached to the lags with self-tapping screws, then insulated as usual.

metallic

The general principle of installing insulation is the same as on a wooden base, the only difference is that the lining is welded or bolted to the beams, performing the functions of the lag.

Given the small specific gravity insulation, as a lining can be used sheet galvanized steel 0.5 mm thick.

It is advisable to use perforated metal with a hole diameter of 5–20 mm, this will ensure ventilation of the subfloor and rapid evaporation of the condensate that has settled on the pit.

After installation of the lining of the cavity covered with vapor-permeable waterproofing and fill with any suitable mixture.

The only disadvantage of this method of insulation in cold bridges, which arise due to the high thermal conductivity of metal logs, therefore, more effective way insulation is pouring a screed from a mixture of sawdust and cement or PVA.

But in this case it is necessary to organize in the underground space natural or forced ventilation because in spring and summer metal constructions colder than air, so condensation will settle on them.

Material Comparison

The industry offers various insulation materials suitable for floor insulation, however the most popular of them:

• sheet foam;
• granulated polystyrene;
• sprayed polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• foam polyethylene.

Each material has some the best thermal insulation properties, which allows to reduce the thickness of the insulation by 10-20%.

However, the cost of insulation is several times higher, so insulation with sawdust, even with the installation of deepening gutters, is much cheaper.

In addition, only mineral wool and granulated polystyrene pass air and steam, which makes them suitable for use on wooden floors with underfloor without ventilation.

The use of other materials will to the formation of condensation and rapid destruction log wood.

On the concrete floors any material can be used, however, unlike sawdust with lime, they are very attractive to rodents, so if the neighbors have mice, then you will soon have them too. After all, mice and rats are constantly looking for new warm places to live, and modern heaters fit all their requirements.

All modern materials, Besides mineral wool, eventually dry out and lose their shape, so after 5-10 years layer thickness will decrease and its heat-insulating properties will fall.

Using mineral wool another difficulty arises - in order to cut off a piece of the required length with smooth edges, you have to suffer.

In addition, pieces have to be cut off with a small margin, and then inserted with force, which increases the requirements for lining. After all, if you cut off cotton wool without a margin, then high probability of cracks, which will lead to the formation of cold bridges and reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

The same problem occurs when using any sheet materials - if they fall into place without serious effort, then cold air penetrates through the cracks, reducing the effectiveness of insulation.

Sprayed polyurethane devoid of these shortcomings, however, it completely blocks the movement of air and steam, which is why it can only be used on concrete floors, because wood structures, devoid of air movement, soon begin to rot.

All this allows us to draw an unambiguous conclusion - no undeniable benefits before sawdust modern insulation materials Dont Have.

In some ways, they are slightly superior to sawdust, but in terms of a combination of factors they are noticeably inferior to them.

Moreover, considering the content Russian market building materials fake and counterfeit products, there is a high risk of purchasing material that will be hazardous to health, and sawdust, lime and clay are environmentally friendly products.

Insulation for heating structures

heating elements can be installed on any type of floor, however, in order for them to work properly, there must be a layer of insulation under them and a screed that creates a reliable support.

Sawdust-based solutions solve both problems at once- the binder in the composition of the solution creates a strong screed, and sawdust reduces heat loss.

Therefore, to create an insulating screed under heating elements Underfloor heating is best suited for a mixture of sawdust and cement in a ratio of 3:1.

Band heaters laid directly under the coating (laminate, parquet, etc.).

However, for mounting heating cable or water pipe it is necessary either to fill in another screed with maximum thermal conductivity, or to make channels from wooden bars of suitable thickness into which the heating element is laid.

Both methods are easy to implement. on the warming screed from a mixture of sawdust and cement.

Conclusion

sawdust - it is reliable and environmentally friendly pure material , which has good thermal insulation properties and, in terms of the totality of parameters, is in no way inferior to any modern insulation.

After reading this article, you learned how to:

• insulate various floors with sawdust;
• ensure maximum reliability of the supporting structure and material;
• choose the type of binder that is most suitable for specific conditions.

In contact with

In most cases, apartments have a relatively flat floor and a concrete surface that requires only a “cosmetic” fit. It is done for a slight correction of height, elimination of pits and shells formed during the execution repair work in room. If there are cracks, chips and other problems in the concrete, they can also be eliminated with the help of a liquid floor. This is what we will now install in the step-by-step instructions.

Step 1 Surface preparation.

First you need to remove all dirt from the floor. You can use a metal scraper for this paint and varnish products and other materials), a broom and a vacuum cleaner at the final stage. You can use a washing vacuum cleaner - the effect will be much better.

Step 2 Level setting.

There are many ways to do this, but we will use metallic profile as a level. Its width should be about 4 centimeters- this will be enough. We select the highest place on the concrete, fix one side of the profile there, then raise it in level to an angle of 0 degrees and fix it on opposite side rooms. We do the same with all profiles.

Step 3 Pouring liquid floor.

Now that the profiles are level, you can fill in the liquid floor. There is nothing complicated here. We prepare the mixture according to the instructions on the back of the bag and pour the solution, leveling it over the top of the profile so that it covers it.

Let the mixture harden. It dries from 5 to 25 days, depending on the thickness of the screed you make. After hardening, you can spread 2-3 mm glue on top and fix the parquet directly on it (you can make a substrate, but this is optional).

How to level the floor with a mixture on PVA

One of best practices eliminate flaws on the surface is a mixture of sawdust and PVA. This is not a heater, but a solid base that has a low thermal conductivity and can compete with cork insulation. One of the advantages of this method is the speed of installation of building material, good sound insulation and low cost. This allows you to lay floors not only in a small apartment, but also on large areas. Consider more instructions by installation.

Step 1 We clean the surface well.

Dirt and dust must not be allowed to enter, as the adhesion of materials will be very weak. You can work with a vacuum cleaner, wet cloth, etc.

Step 2 Display of lighthouses.

Reiki will suit this task in the best way. The thickness of the laying of the material can be different, but it is recommended to make at least 6 centimeters in order to achieve good thermal efficiency and sound insulation.

Step 3 We are preparing an explosive mixture.

Moisten sawdust, then wring it out. There should be a minimum of water, while the humidity remains quite high so that there is no overspending of expensive glue. Mix glue with sawdust to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Step 4 Application to floors.

If the differences are small, then one layer will be enough. If there are dips or steps, then in places where there will be a lot of sawdust, it is necessary to apply them 2-3 times, with each layer to dry for about 3 days. Keep in mind: sawdust shrinks a little when it dries!

Leveling a surface with large drops, you will have to close the floors for a long time, so it is better to first prepare a small amount of the mixture, apply it to all the depressions. In a few days it will be possible to start full-fledged work.

Master's advice: it is very difficult to level the floors with PVA-based sawdust. If you can’t achieve the desired result with a level or level, you can take a sheet of OSB and simply lay it on top of the sawdust. The strength of such a coating will be colossal, and leveling the sheet will not be difficult.

How to level a floor with large differences

Do you want to put an expensive laminate or parquet in a room where the level differences reach 5 or more centimeters? This is quite real, you just need to be creative in solving the issue. We will level the floor with plywood. Let's take a closer look at how to level the surface in this way.

Step 1 Leveling the floor.

First you need to set the beacons. Their role will be played by self-tapping screws, which are screwed to a certain height around the entire perimeter. We take a long level, we go to expose them.

Step 2 Installing lags.

For a room 5x5 meters wide, you need wooden beam dimensions 80x90 mm. Less can not be taken, since the hardness of the floor should be maximum. The width between the lags is not more than 60 centimeters.

Step 3 We fix plywood.

This is where you need to spend a little. We buy plywood FK, 12-14 mm, material class - 44. Such a surface will withstand not only several people, but also solid short-term loads on the surface (falls of a person, TV, hammer blow, etc.). We fasten the sheets (screws 6-7 cm long).

Step 4 Laying parquet.

Now it remains to lay the parquet on plywood. To do this, simply lubricate the surface of the floor with building glue, evenly level it over the entire area. The layer thickness should be about 4 millimeters, no more - this will already be an overrun of expensive material. After installing the parquet, the glue must be allowed to dry for at least 15 hours, only then it can be tested.

If the floorboards have dried up and cracked in them, and the floorboards are bent and their creaking with every step cries out for the need emergency repairs, you should think about which method will give the best result and entail the least material costs. But it also happens that the condition of the floor at the moment is satisfactory, but its evenness leaves much to be desired. In this, as in the previous case, there are ways to qualitatively prepare the floor for the flooring of the finish coating.

Leveling the floor with a screed

In the event that the floor is not rotten, but does not satisfy its evenness, then you can not open the boards, but make a leveling screed directly on them. First you need to decide to what height you need to raise the floor. It is important to correlate height marks with doorways and pipes heating system. Doors may need to be replaced or shortened. Concrete screed device wooden surface carries a sufficient amount of risk, so the choice of a concrete mix manufacturer must be approached with all seriousness. An excellent option would be to purchase "Vetonit 3300", which has the property of easily leveling and quickly gaining strength. It contains a special fiber that improves the quality of the floor surface. The coating thickness recommended by the manufacturer is up to 1 cm. But when working with a wooden surface, the thickness of the concrete layer should be at least one third of the thickness of the floorboard. The steps for leveling the surface of a wooden floor are as follows:

• Foundation preparation. With time upper layer wooden planks wears out, the paint on it cracks, the fibers of the wood peel off, a layer of dirt and grease appears on them. Therefore, it is highly desirable to remove this layer, unsuitable for further use, using an electric planer or grinding.
• Plinths should be removed.
• Floor boards must be firmly fixed on the logs. To do this, use nails or screws of a suitable size. Thin boards that bend under the weight of a person should be replaced, and the gaps between the floorboards should be puttied. You can use any putty mixture for wood flooring. If there is a desire or need, the following composition can be prepared to seal the cracks: mix 4 parts of sawdust with 1 part of oil paint.
• After removing the skirting boards, the gaps formed between the floorboards and the wall must be closed with suitable, durable slats. After the screed is completed, they are removed to provide slot ventilation of the floor space, which prevents the process of rotting of the floorboards from below.
• Next, you should prime the surface of the wooden floor. For this purpose, you can use "Vetonite Dispersion". The surface covered with this composition will ensure the ease of spreading the screed. If the floor is leveled by applying several words of screed, then the treatment with this composition should be carried out before applying each layer on the surface of the previous one.
• Next, you need to reinforce the wooden floor with fiberglass mesh using construction stapler. You can do without staples, but in this case, in the process of applying the screed, the mesh will need to be "heated".
• Next, we level the wooden floor using a concrete leveling screed device, according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Leveling a wooden floor with PVA glue

This method is great for any wooden surface. It is cheap and gives a durable wear-resistant coating. You will need: sawdust, glue itself, wooden planks. The beginning of work is the installation of guides, which will be a guideline for the height of the leveling layer. To do this, stepping back a short distance from the wall, at a distance of no more than 60 cm, rows of wooden planks are stuffed, the evenness of which is checked using a level. Next, you need to prepare a leveling composition: mix sawdust with glue until a creamy state. The surface of the floor before applying the composition must be cleaned of dust and degreased. The coating is applied in layers. This composition shrinks, therefore, after applying a layer of 1 cm, you should wait until it dries completely, and only then proceed to apply the next layer. We level the wooden floor with the help of this composition carefully, in layers, slowly. Despite the fact that this process takes quite a long time, the result will certainly please: the surface will be strong and even. Further, thin plywood is laid on top of the leveling layer, which is attached to the floorboards with self-tapping screws.

planning overhaul in a house or apartment, you have to take into account many different aspects. And laying a new flooring is one of the central issues that needs to be addressed. To put in a new flooring in an old house or apartment wooden floors, quite often they have to be completely dismantled. But sometimes it is not necessary to do this at all, you can level the wooden floor, and then put a laminate, tile or linoleum on it. Modern advances in construction technologies make it easy to level the wooden floor with your own hands.

Wood is a material that requires regular maintenance, but over time it still warps, cracks, dries out and sags. In order for the wooden floor to look perfect, it is leveled, after which any floor covering is applied. Leveling will remove various irregularities in the wooden base, which may adversely affect the new flooring. This applies to both hard flooring (laminate, tile, parquet) and soft flooring (linoleum, carpet). To prevent this from happening, and the new flooring to be of high quality and durable, the wooden floor can be leveled in one of the following ways:

• floor scraping;
• use self-leveling compounds;
• using putty based on PVA glue;
• align with plywood sheets.

Scraping a wooden floor

This method of leveling a wooden floor is the simplest, but at the same time labor-intensive and effective. Floor scraping should be used if it is planned to use paints and varnishes as a floor covering.

The floor can be cycled manually or with a special scraper machine. In the first case, you will have to scrape the entire surface with the help of a manual scraper, remove various irregularities. This approach is terribly time consuming and heavy. In order to carry out all work with minimal cost forces, you should use a scraping machine. A significant disadvantage of cycling is the presence huge amount dust.

How to level a wooden floor with a sander:

– during scraping a lot of dust is produced, therefore it is necessary to protect Airways, hands, eyes, objects and surfaces from dust;

- remove any metal objects from the floor, use a hammer and a hammer to drown all the nail heads into the wood, otherwise the knives can be damaged during scraping;

- we start scraping from any corner and, moving like a snake, remove the top layer wood flooring;

- after the first layer has been removed throughout the room, it is necessary to carry out a small cleaning and putty all the cracks and cracks with putty;

- after waiting for the putty to dry completely, you can continue to scrape the floor;

Important! Leveling wood floor paintwork can be considered complete when the surface is perfectly flat and without cracks. Hard-to-reach places and plinths will have to be scraped manually with a corner scraper.

- after cycling, the room must be thoroughly vacuumed;

- before applying varnish or paint, the surface of the wooden floor must be wiped with a lint-free cloth soaked in white spirit.

Leveling with self leveling compound

Leveling a wooden floor with a self-levelling compound: the base must not have large gaps and cracks

Pouring a concrete screed has always been a success with builders, both simple and affordable way level the floor. But in houses with wooden floors, this was unacceptable due to the large mass of concrete that had to be used. Thanks to modern technologies This issue has been solved. Self-leveling compounds allow you to level a wooden floor under linoleum, laminate or tile. After drying, the cement-adhesive composition will create an even, durable and sufficiently elastic coating with a low mass due to a layer of up to 20 mm. To do this, do the following:

- the floor surface is completely cleaned of the old floor covering;

- we drown the protruding nail heads, remove any metal objects;

- using a grinder or scraper, we partially remove the top layer;

- we fix all creaking and springy boards to the lags with the help of self-tapping screws;

- carefully vacuum and clean the floor from dust and dirt;

- putty all cracks and cracks, let dry completely;

Important! It is necessary to make the surface without wide cracks and cracks, otherwise the solution will go "nowhere".

- we impregnate the wooden floor with a deep penetration primer with moisture-proof properties, if it seems a little, you can lay waterproofing membrane;

- we glue the joints of the walls and the floor with an overlap on the floor and walls, using double-sided tape, and glue a waterproofing membrane in the form of a strip on it;

- on the walls we mark the level to which the self-leveling mixture will be poured;

Important! The minimum filling thickness is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Beacons can be used as a level mark.

Scheme of pouring self-leveling mixture: insulating layers

- near the door we fix a wooden plank, the thickness of which corresponds to the fill level;

- we lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor surface and fix it to the floor with self-tapping screws or stapler brackets;

Now that the wooden floor is prepared, you can start pouring the mixture:

- add the mixture to a container with water and knead with a drill and a mixing nozzle;

Important! The mixture should be homogeneous and without lumps, prepared strictly according to the instructions.

Getting rid of bubbles in the self-levelling compound with a rubber roller

- pour the resulting mixture onto the prepared surface and use a special rubber roller with spikes to get rid of small bubbles;

- level the surface using a large spatula or rubber squeegee as a rule;

- now it remains to wait for the mixture to dry completely and prepare it for laying the floor covering.

Important! Drying of the self-levelling compound must be carried out strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Leveling a wooden floor with PVA putty

This alignment method is one of the most unusual and innovative. Putty is a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue, which, after hardening, becomes quite strong and difficult to process. And due to the availability and cheapness of the initial components, this putty is cost-effective. In fact, this putty resembles well famous slab Chipboard, with the difference that it is impossible to soften the plate and fill all the irregularities with it. The use of PVA-based putty allows you to level the wooden floor under a laminate or linoleum. You can use it to level a wooden floor as follows:

- clean the floor from the old coating and skins;

- bending and creaking boards are fixed to the lags with the help of self-tapping screws;

- stuffed on the floor wooden slats as lighthouses with a step of 35-50 cm.

Important! To get a flat surface, all the slats must be in the same plane; we use a level for alignment.

- we prepare putty from PVA glue and sawdust, knead to the consistency of thick sour cream.

Important! In order for the putty to dry gradually and not crack, the sawdust should be slightly wetted and squeezed out.

- using a spatula, fill the space between the slats with putty;

Important! Putty must be applied intermittently, in several layers, since after drying it shrinks slightly.

- after applying last layer putty, level the floor plane using the rule and, if necessary, add putty;

- we wait for complete drying (about 2 days) and lay the floor covering.

Important! The disadvantage of putty based on PVA and sawdust is its insufficient strength for some floor coverings. To increase strength, it is recommended to lay sheets of plywood, chipboard or drywall.

How to level a wooden floor with plywood

You can also use plywood to level a wooden floor. Compliance with the technology will create a perfectly flat and durable floor. This method is usually chosen when it is necessary to level the wooden floor under linoleum or carpet. To get the best quality plywood base, a 4/4 grade or larger sheet should be used, the thickness should be at least 12 mm. Leveling a wooden floor with plywood is as follows:

— remove the old coating;

- install beacons from self-tapping screws. To do this, we screw them to the required height with a screwdriver all over the floor. We begin to screw in the corners, and form a square with sides of 20-30 cm;

- align the height of the self-tapping screws horizontally using a level;

Logs should form a grid of 35 * 35 cm squares

- we lay the logs in increments of 30-35 cm. For the logs themselves, we use plywood strips or sticks of various thicknesses;

- we fasten the logs to the floor with self-tapping screws or glue, if the logs sag a little, we put pieces of plywood or bars under them;

Important! The joists must be level with the horizon and firmly fixed. The result should be a dense grid of logs in the form of squares with sides of 30-35 cm.

- lay out the sheets of plywood and adjust them in such a way that the joints of the sheets fall on the logs;

Important! In order not to have to cut whole sheets of plywood, you can first lay them out on a bare floor and mark the borders of the sheet with a pencil. Then lay the logs according to these marks so that the plywood joints fall on the log.

Leveling the wooden floor with plywood: we fix the plywood sheets on the logs

- we fix the plywood to the logs with the help of self-tapping screws with countersunk heads;

Important! In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws not to push through the plywood, a sweat is made on the sheet with a drill.

- before laying the floor covering, you should walk along the surface of the plywood with a grinder, especially at the junction of the sheets;

Important! To give durability, plywood can be varnished and laid on top of the flooring. If a laminate is laid, then a cork or polyethylene foam is laid as a substrate on the plywood.

Modern Construction Materials allow you to qualitatively and quickly level the wooden floor without partial or complete replacement. To do this is within the power of anyone who knows how to handle the tool and at least a little versed in the construction business. The main thing is to adhere to the technology and perform all stages of work with high quality. When leveling a wooden floor in one way or another, it should be remembered that at the end of the work the floor height will rise by a couple of centimeters, and you will have to cut the bottom of the door.

June 13, 2017
Specialization: philological education. Experience as a builder - 20 years. Of these, for the last 15 years he led a brigade as a foreman. I know everything about construction - from design and the zero cycle to interior design. Hobbies: Vocal, psychology, quail breeding.

Greetings, my dear readers!

We all have to do minor repairs, during which putty is needed. It levels the base, makes it even and smooth, clogs cracks and seams.

With a small repair, the consumption of putty is small and it makes no sense to buy it in bags or buckets. Putty can be prepared independently, which I do. Let me share this experience with you.

How to make putty for different surfaces

Putty for a wooden surface must be strong and elastic. After all, wood is deformed by changes in temperature and humidity. The putty should move with it.

Three options for homemade putty for wood

1. Chalk diluted with PVA glue. The mixture is brought to the consistency of sour cream. For large irregularities or crevices, you can add wood dust or small sawdust to such a putty.

The disadvantage of this putty- it dries for about a day. It contains long hardening PVA.

1. Chalk diluted with nitro-lacquer. Take right amount chalk and small sawdust and dilute the mixture with nitro-lacquer. This type of putty is optimal for repairs. wooden furniture and items made of chipboard.

• You can paint the putty to match the color of the furniture with building pigment or gouache. Add some Thinner #647 to the dye and pour into the putty. Then mix the composition.
• The advantage of putty on nitrolac- it dries quickly. Flaw- It is slightly toxic and smells strongly.

1. Chalk diluted with water-dispersion acrylic varnish. Take the right amount of chalk and cheap acrylic varnish. Mix them to a liquid paste. If the putty is thick, it can be diluted with water. You can adjust the color of the mixture by adding a small amount of color for water-dispersion paints to it.

Acrylic varnish has good elasticity. Therefore, putty from it will protect well wooden base from atmospheric influences.

• If the base is very uneven or has large gaps, add fine sawdust to the acrylic mixture. I recommend that you make the composition in the evening, and cover the container with it tightly. During the night, the sawdust will infuse and soften.
• Advantages of putty on acrylic lacquer - fast drying(2-8 hours, it depends on the temperature in the room), increased elasticity and strength.

This type of putty can be processed without problems without laminated chipboard. However, there is one caveat.

Many water-based acrylic primers are sold in hardware stores. For example:

• Olimpic Acryl Grundierung;
• Ceresit-CT/17;
• Uzin-PE/260.

Except water composition, you can use the universal primer GF-021.

I recommend that you do all the varieties of putties I have described in a small amount sufficient for a work shift. The mixture will dry out if stored for a long time.

Apply the solution to the wood with a flexible rubber spatula. Sand with sandpaper on a bar or grinder.

Four types of putty for painting, wallpaper for concrete and plaster

Concrete and plaster ceilings and walls are puttied with gypsum-based putty before painting or wallpapering. This is not very convenient - the gypsum sets quickly. Therefore, it has to be kneaded in small portions.

I offer you several putty recipes that are much more convenient to work with.

1. Putty on wood glue. Its composition: 10 kg of chalk, 1 kg of 15% wood glue, 25 g of turpentine, 25 g laundry soap and 25 g of drying oil. The composition is mixed until a paste is formed.

1. Putty on acrylic primer. Its composition: 10 kg of chalk, 10 liters of acrylic primer, 1.5 liters of 10% wood glue. All this is mixed to a paste-like state.

1. Solution on casein paint. Its composition: 22 kg of chalk, 10 kg of casein paint, 6 liters of water and 300 g of drying oil. To prepare the mixture, dilute the paint with water and heat to +60˚.

After that, strain the solution through a sieve and pour drying oil into it. Lastly, add chalk to the composition. I recommend soaking it in water first.

1. Mixture on casein glue. Its composition: 22 kg of chalk, 10 liters of 10% casein glue and 30 g of drying oil. If you will make the mixture on ready-made glue, you can not heat it up. While mixing the composition, gradually add soaked chalk and drying oil to it.

Conclusion

Doing putty yourself, you can save money and be sure of good quality material. Do not be afraid to experiment, all the mixture recipes I have given are very simple and it is impossible to make a mistake here.

If you have any questions, ask them in the comments. So I say goodbye, and success to you in your endeavors!