How to scrape a floor without a scraper. Do-it-yourself scraping of a wooden floor and the cost of work

During overhaul Everything in the house needs to be taken care of. Maintenance of the floor covering is also an important task. There are many varieties of materials on the market, each of which deserves attention.

The most sought after for many years parquet board and natural wood. This can be logically explained, because wood looks presentable and fits any interior design. Of course, it has its own characteristics, including the need for meticulous care. And if you have just such a floor covering at home, you probably noticed that over time it has faded, scuffs have appeared on it, and this means that certain measures need to be taken. We are talking about scraping a wooden floor, which will solve the problem of lost presentability.

The question arises whether it is possible to do this work on your own, or it is necessary to apply for a service to qualified specialists. Of course, this work requires certain skills, but if you carefully study all the details and follow the instructions, you can do it yourself and achieve the desired result.

What is a cycle?

There are several types of finishing materials for floor covering. Among the huge selection, natural wood is in great demand and has not lost its relevance for many years. Parquet is an indicator of excellent quality, durability and prestige. natural material is identified with comfort and warmth, but it must be properly looked after, otherwise it will cease to look beautiful.

Scraping allows you to save the floor from scuffs. This process is complex, but very effective, thanks to which it is possible to extend the life of the wooden coating. With the help of sanding, the top thin layer of parquet or wooden floor is removed. For this, special equipment is used, which consists of sharpened metal knives. Such a process will achieve density and perfect evenness of the coating.

If the parquet looks uneven and old, it is recommended to use a drum machine here. It works neatly, and will not remove an extra layer. Sandpaper can become dirty very quickly if bitumen comes out between the cracks, which means that it needs to be replaced. Of course, we must not forget about the varieties of wood species, since this is important to consider during scraping.

If the floor is made of exotic material, it is better to consult an experienced specialist here.

Moisture is considered the enemy of any wooden coating. And if there are problems with this, scraping cannot be carried out, since the floor will be deformed. First you need to make sure that the parquet is dry, and only then start work. It is important to note that the room should be warm and dry, as well as well ventilated.

Tools

To complete a task on highest level and prolong the life of the flooring, you need to stock up on the appropriate tools and equipment for grinding. First you need a scraping machine - this is the main device for solving this issue. At home the best option there will be a grinding drum machine, where a removable abrasive belt is installed.

As for the cost, it is not available to everyone, since the device is offered at a high price, but you can rent equipment if you still decide to do the renovation of the wooden floor yourself. But for those who plan to start working in this field and provide grinding services, it is important to purchase a quality, reliable device, thanks to which you can achieve the perfect result.

Any room consists of walls and corners; a drum machine cannot be dispensed with, since it cannot cope with some areas. To cycle expensive coverage from valuable breeds or parquet, you need to take a corner scraper. Be prepared that a lot of debris will appear during work, because the abrasive turns the top layer into dust, which means that you need a vacuum cleaner to collect everything.

There is a mechanical device with which you can also grind, and this is a manual scraper. The cost of such an apparatus is available to everyone, although the cost of effort is much greater than during the operation of a machine cycle. This will take a long time, so be prepared for this. The great advantage of this unit is that it is able to process hard-to-reach areas.

For sanding, you will need sandpaper of different grits., because you will start with large options and work your way up to smaller ones. Even a seemingly perfect floor can have gaps, because over time, defects appear on the coating. Therefore, stock up on white spirit, sponge, glue with putty, and then you can fix problem areas. Thus, it is important to prepare complete equipment so that the necessary tools are at hand at any time.

Where to begin?

First of all, from the room where the work will be carried out, it is necessary to take out all the furniture and household appliances. If you have stationary items in the room, use a strong sheet and cover everything around, leaving access to the floor in all areas. The joints must be fixed with adhesive tape, since dust can get into the smallest cracks, and then it will be much more difficult to clean up. If wallpaper is pasted on the walls, or painted with waterproof paint or plaster, they do not need protection.

Otherwise, use the tape and fix it a meter from the floor to protect the finish from damage.

It is extremely important to check the condition of the entire floor, examine defects and eliminate problem areas. If you find rot, deflections or cracks, you will need to take appropriate measures to eliminate them. To do this, study the information, consult and use useful advice to prepare the coating for further work. Even small cracks cannot be ignored, use plaster to close them up, and only then can you continue.

If you used special glue during work, wait until it dries, level the coating with a planer, and then sand it. As for the skirting boards, they need to be dismantled. In old floors, nail heads often protrude, and this must be dealt with immediately, namely, drown them with a hammer. Walk around the entire perimeter with a vacuum cleaner to remove debris and dust particles.

If you see mastic on the surface, use mineral spirits and a washcloth to remove this protective layer.

Is it possible to cycle without special knowledge?

This question can be answered in different ways. First you need to decide what area you are going to process, and how much is expected. In addition, it is important to study the nature of the surface, since the scraping of parquet, solid wood affects the choice of equipment and other details. If you turn to professionals for a service, you cannot name a single price, since each company provides its own cost.

If you use special equipment from a leading manufacturer, you can do the work yourself, just before that it is important to study all the details and follow strict instructions, then the result will meet expectations.

When you decide to grind the floor at home or in the country on your own, do the preparatory work, stock up on tools and follow the rules.

Cycling by machine

Make sure that the room where the work will be carried out is closed, because this way the other room will be protected from dust. At the same time, one should not forget about ventilation, so open the windows. Perform scraping pine board and other types of wood coating is necessary with glasses to protect the eyes. Another important equipment is a respirator, you can get by with a gauze mask. The grinder is very loud, so you will need ear plugs or headphones, the main thing is that the noise does not reach you and you feel comfortable working.

Since it is necessary to start with drum equipment, coarse sandpaper must be inserted into it. Start processing the coating from the corner and move along the wall. As soon as you stop the machine and turn it, you need to tilt it back a little so as not to scratch the floor.

The next strip must be produced in parallel, and so - each time. The unit has special place where dust collects, so be sure to check it and change it. During operation, the sandpaper is quickly erased, keep an eye on this in order to install a new one in time, but observe the grain rate. Once you have gone over the entire surface area for the first time, set the medium grit sandpaper, and repeat all over again.

Remember to follow the rule regarding perpendicular direction.

During the last sanding, fine-grained sandpaper is used, and then it is necessary to move parallel to the floorboards. As you can see, grinding is not challenging task if you use the right materials, carry high-quality equipment and follow step by step instructions. If you do everything qualitatively and measuredly, the result will be amazing. Walk through wooden floor vacuum cleaner, as there will be a lot of residue after sanding.

When to carry out finishing work?

Experts recommend not to do this immediately after scraping. Wait a day for the dust to completely settle, then start cleaning again. After that, you need to use a soft sponge with white spirit, and walk over the surface. The final step is varnishing. As for the choice finishing material, here you should consult with a qualified specialist, as there is a wide range of such products on the market.

How to cycle the floor manually?

This method also has the right to exist, although it is not in such great demand as the previous one. It is suitable for small spaces, and in cases where it is not possible to use overall equipment. It is impossible to compare processing manually and using a machine, since each of the options for correct application will be effective. If there is a financial constraint, or it is necessary to scrape a small room, then you can use this method.

There are several types of hand painted wood flooring. The first is to operate the cycle. This device is used in small areas, for example, the floor in a niche or corners in a room. Thus, the work surface must be compact.

The next option is grinding with sandpaper. This method is considered the most accessible, since auxiliary material cheap. You will not need much time for processing, since here it is necessary to rub the parquet. Costs depend on the amount of sandpaper you need.

Scraping frequency

It all depends on the degree of wear of the floor, as well as the breed from which it is made. The quality of the wood plays an important role, as soft woods need to be processed much more often. Of course, here it is necessary to take into account the intensity of use of the premises.

If it's about public institution, where there is frequent movement, then it is most often not parquet that is laid in it, but another wooden coating. The same applies to dance halls, cinemas and other similar places. Experts say that high-quality parquet must be polished every twenty or even thirty years.

If the coating is from the array, then the scraping should be carried out every ten years.

No matter how wide the variety of modern flooring may be, it is the plank floor that is still considered the most environmentally friendly and comfortable. True, it has one significant disadvantage - even with careful operation after a few years it appearance spoils. Here, a special procedure can come to the rescue - cycling, about the features and subtleties of which, we will describe in this article.

What it is?

For those who first come across the term "scrapping" of a wooden floor, sometimes it is not entirely clear what this procedure is. So, scraping is the removal of the topmost wood layer from the boards. In fact, this procedure replaces the varnishing, grinding and polishing of the boards.

The main feature of scraping is the possibility of its implementation only when using a special scraping machine.

Manually, and even more so, using improvised tools, it is simply impossible to cope with such a task.

Another feature is that scraping is possible only as long as the thickness of the boards allows it. After all, do not forget that with each such procedure, the top layer of the floor is removed, and sooner or later it will finally become thinner. True, this will come in 50-70 years, not earlier.

Types of scraping machines

Until recently, cycling was carried out using manual typewriter, which was called so - cycle. Today, special grinding machines are used, working from the connection to the electrical network.

They are of two types: drum and disk:

• The drum machine for scraping consumes a lot of electricity, it is quite difficult to operate and makes a lot of noise. Experts today insist that it is rational to use it only for processing a large floor area.
• Disc sanders do not have such shortcomings, they level the floor perfectly evenly, give the boards shine and original appearance. It is disk scraping machines that are now at the peak of popularity.

Using a disk apparatus, you can completely scrape a wooden floor yourself. The main thing is to carefully follow all the steps and recommendations.

Required Tools

Before proceeding directly to scraping the old floor with your own hands, you need to stock up on the necessary materials and tools.

To carry out the work you will need:

• The cycler itself. it main tool, without which the work simply cannot be done.
• Nozzles for rough grinding.
• Nozzles for grinding corners and uneven joints.
• Surface grinder.
• A construction vacuum cleaner or an old but powerful ordinary household appliance.
• Sandpaper large and small.
• Special brushes for varnish.
• Polish or paint for laminate.
• Emery knife.
• Special solution for the preparation of putty.

The presence of all these tools and materials at hand should be taken care of in advance and placed in close proximity. This will allow you not to be distracted in the process of doing the work to search for the necessary material.

Technological process

Preparatory stage

Regardless of where the floor renovation work will be carried out - in the country house or in the apartment, first you need to do preparations and only then scrape the flooring:

• First of all, it is necessary to completely free the room from any things and furniture, the floor must be completely empty. In addition, the plinth should be removed, and door leaf remove from hinges. The doorway itself should be hung with a piece of thick film, this will protect other rooms from the penetration of wood dust.
• Next, the floor plank is examined for mold and severe cracks. All these flaws should be removed at this stage. The cycling of the painted floor should begin with the removal old paint from boards. For this, a special solvent or mineral alcohol can be used.

• During operation, it is necessary to open the window wide open, this will allow dust and odors to quickly disappear from the room. After that, it is necessary to thoroughly wash the floors with clean warm water and allow to dry for at least a day.
• If badly damaged and rotten boards were noticed, they should be replaced completely or at least partially with new ones. All protruding nail heads should be driven back into the floor.
• At the end of all preparatory procedures, it is necessary to make sure that the floor is completely cleaned of all contaminants and does not have strong and sharp protrusions over its entire surface.

Sanding and sanding

After doing preparatory phase you can scrape and sand the old wood flooring:

• First you need to do a rough scraping. It is at this stage that a special machine with a suitable nozzle is required. With its help, not only the remnant of varnish or paint is removed, but also a thin layer of the wood itself is removed, on which there are various damages. Such work should be done slowly enough. The movement of the machine should be directed along the length of the boards themselves.

I would especially like to note that for a pine board it is worth choosing a nozzle with an average degree of hardness, since such wood is cycled quite quickly and easily.

This stage is considered completed when all the significant shortcomings of the wooden plank floor are eliminated.

• The next step is sanding the boards. This procedure is performed in three stages using different nozzles of different sizes. The first step is done using size 40 paper, the second step requires using size 60 paper and the third sanding step is done with size 100 paper. This staged grinding allows you to achieve the perfect smoothness of the boards, in addition, it is this procedure that gives them their original color and shine.

It is fine grinding that takes the most time and effort. However, the correct and unhurried execution of this stage of work guarantees a high-quality and long-term result of the whole cycling as a whole.

Treatment of hard-to-reach areas

As with the entire floor, the boards must first be roughly sanded. And then sand them down. To do this, use special corner nozzles of a suitable size.

The final stage

After all the work has been completed, it is necessary to carefully but carefully putty all the gaps between the boards using a special putty. Allow the material to dry completely. Then, using a sanding pad with size 100 paper, go over the entire floor again. This final sanding will give the floor a finished look and eliminate any unevenness.

The final touch is the application of varnish. This procedure requires care and uniformity. The varnish is applied in three or four layers. Each next layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried. The average drying time for each layer of varnish is 4 hours.

Safety

Scraping a plank wooden floor is not only a very responsible and time-consuming task, but also quite dangerous.

Therefore, in order to protect yourself as much as possible in the process of its implementation, you must follow the following recommendations:

• During work, doors to other rooms must be tightly closed. But the room itself should be well ventilated.
• Be sure to use a protective mask or respirator when working with varnishes, and even during the cycling itself.
• To perform work, you should choose comfortable clothing that does not constrain movements, but at the same time does not have any hanging parts. It is also recommended to tie your hair or put a scarf on your head.

• When using the scraping machine itself, do not press hard on it. Otherwise, strong dents will remain on the boards, which will be difficult to eliminate.
• During the execution of work, you should pay Special attention so that the wire does not get under the machine. If this happens, you must immediately disconnect the device from the mains and be sure to replace the extension cord with a new one.

Compliance with these simple tips will help to significantly improve the quality and safety of the work performed.

Well, in order to make the cycling process even easier and more convenient, we suggest that you use the following useful recommendations:

• When you turn on the device for the first time, you need to tilt it slightly and lift it above the floor, holding the device firmly with both hands and only then, in a slightly inclined state, put it on the floor, and only then straighten it. If the machine will twitch a little at the same time, then this is not a problem.
• When rough sanding and fine sanding, when approaching the wall, the device should be lifted from one side, turned around and then continue processing the next boards in the opposite direction.
• Boards with a wavy structure cycle only diagonally. In this case, rough scraping is carried out twice in the opposite direction. Fine sanding should also be done diagonally using the standard attachments for this procedure.

FROM according to professional terminology, the concept of scraping refers to scraping wooden surface for cleaning and straightening. Unlike grinding, floor scraping, namely, we will talk about floor scraping in this article, this technological process removing the old floor covering and leveling it. The very concept of scraping a wooden floor refers to the repair of wooden floors and, according to the technology, scraping the floor is followed by its grinding and subsequent coating with protective varnishes or paints.

Manual and mechanical floor scraping

The scraping of a wooden floor is divided into manual and mechanical scraping. For mechanical sanding of floors, special machines are used various types. Bulky machines cycle the main surface of the floor, the corners of the room cycle small grinders, and in very hard-to-reach places, scraping is carried out with manual scrapers (scrapers).

Scraping, a priori, involves the removal of a thick layer of a wooden surface, and scraping technology is used as a cardinal measure to remove the top layer of wood, including layers of old varnish or paint, before revealing a layer of natural wood.

Stages of sanding a wooden floor

We single out the following stages of floor scraping:

• Room preparation;
• Surface survey;
• The choice between manual and mechanical scraping;
• Mechanical scraping;
• Scraping in the corners and junctions;
• Room cleaning;
• Sealing defects in the floor;
• Covering the floor with varnish or paint.

Preparing the room for scraping

• To carry out scraping work, all furniture must be removed from the room;
• If you plan to replace the skirting boards, then the old skirting boards must be removed;
• The surface of the walls to a width of one meter must be protected with cellophane;
• Work will require a worker electric socket or access to an electrical panel to connect an electric scraper.

Sex examination

• The wooden parquet floor is examined for the integrity of the parquet planks and their strong fastening. If necessary, broken parquet planks must be replaced.
• Wooden plank floor is examined for strength. All floor boards must be firmly fixed, not bend or creak.
• If the floor is covered with mastic, it is removed with white spirit.

Scraping a wooden floor in three stages

1. At the first stage of sanding, the floor is processed by a sanding machine (machine sanding).

Machine scraping, includes three stages of scraping. Each stage of machine sanding is carried out with sandpaper with different grain sizes. Begin surface treatment with coarse grit sandpaper (No. 40), and finish with a third treatment with fine grit sandpaper (No. 120). Cycling works are carried out at closed doors and windows of the room, wearing goggles and a respirator.

1. The scraping machine “rolls” on the floor in parallel stripes with an overlap of 5-6 cm strips.
2. The second scraping of the floor is carried out with a change in the number of emery skins, in the direction perpendicular to the first scraping.
3. The last layer of processing of the wooden surface of the floor is carried out with fine-grained sandpaper (No. 120), in the direction of laying the floor boards.

2. Scraping in the corners of the room. In the corners of the room and where the floor adjoins the wall, the floor is scraped with a manual scraper.

3. In hard-to-reach places: under the radiators, around pipes, the floor is cycled by a manual cycle.

Scraping ends with a thorough cleaning of the room (s) using a vacuum cleaner. A protective kiss is removed from the walls.

Floor polishing after sanding

The floor is varnished the next day after sanding. The floor is once again vacuumed and wiped with white spirit.

Parquet is the most expensive and noble floor covering. But even the best quality wood and varnish wear out over time. In most cases, it can be restored. Such work, although time-consuming, is still cheaper than laying the floor again. The article will discuss how to cycle the floor with your own hands and properly cover it with a new varnish.

Restoration of parquet or replacement with a new one?

The process itself, although time-consuming, does not require special skills. Everyone can perform floor scraping, the main thing is to follow the technological process.

Cycling involves removing the top, damaged layer of wood. Depending on the thickness of the parquet plank and the degree of its wear, there are from 5 to 8 stages of scraping.

Floor defects in which scraping is impossible:

• carpenter beetle damage;
• swollen planks, which is especially common after flooding;
• dry areas. So, with a gap width between the planks of more than 5 mm, even putty will only be a temporary measure. After a couple of months, this area will crack again and require another restoration;
• serious damage is present. If they are located only locally on a small number of planks, then at first these sections are changed to new ones and only then all stages of scraping are performed, including the first, the roughest;
• thickness less than 5 mm;
• fungus and mold are present.

Advantages of scraping the old floor with your own hands:

• there is no long process of removing the old coating;
• only masters can lay a new parquet, but you can cycle the old one on your own;
• the ability to preserve, though old, but valuable and noble flooring.

Do-it-yourself floor scraping tools

There are two main methods of floor scraping: hand tools and special equipment. Tools are selected depending on which method is preferable.

• Manual scraper. it wooden tool consisting of a handle and a narrow blade. With it, the top layer of wood is removed, which is pre-soaked with water. Of course, the process will be very slow and difficult. But at work there will be no noise, dust. And the cycle itself is inexpensive and accessible to everyone.
• Speed ​​up the process, but don't buy special equipment, you can use Bulgarians equipped with speed control. But working with a tool that has to be held on weight, it is almost impossible to make a flat horizontal surface. In addition, at low speed, the grinder will not cope with a thick layer of varnish and old wood, and at high - any wrong movement will lead to notches, pits, etc.
• Grinder- a special tool, it is large, heavy and noisy. But on the other hand, you can do a large volume at a time, and do it with high quality. Such equipment is rented, and renting it for a day will not cause much damage to the budget.

• When working with a grinder, a lot of dust is generated. The household vacuum cleaner has insufficient power even when applying varnish decorative coating may be damaged due to dust impurities. Therefore, it is worth taking care of renting. industrial vacuum cleaner.

Do-it-yourself electrical equipment for scraping the floor

• Belt sander. If the question is how to scrape a parquet floor without dust, then this machine is indispensable, since there is always a bag for collecting sawdust in the package. This expensive equipment is produced in different capacities. The principle of operation is based on a drum on which sanding paper is put on.
• Parquet grinder. Instead of a drum, she has discs with replaceable abrasives. It is used for finishing grinding with fine-grained skins.
• Surface grinder. Designed for hard-to-reach places, the people call it "boot". It is recommended to choose models equipped with a dust bag. This is a very affordable tool, on sale there is household models costing from 2500 rubles.

In addition to the equipment itself, you will need a lot of consumables: sanding belts, a knife or scissors, gloves, masks, etc.

The order of preparatory work for scraping the floor with your own hands

• First of all, you need to remove all the furniture from the room. Some find it easier to leave it and move it around as the scraping work progresses. But in this case, you will have to rearrange it at least 4 times, and this threatens to scratch the floor. Even if you move it through the air, it is not only very laborious and exhausting, but you cannot avoid the formation of "overlaps" - areas where the level of grinding will differ.
• Cycling is a rather dusty process. Therefore, you do not need to pre-wash the floor, it is enough to vacuum or sweep large debris.
• For the same reason, vents or windows must be constantly open in the room in order to create the necessary air exchange.
• For high-quality grinding of the entire floor, you should ensure good lighting throughout the working day.
• When working with parquet-grinding equipment, care must be taken that the plugs can withstand a load that ranges from 15 amperes.
• may be required and repair work floor before sanding. If the parquet was mounted to the floor on nails, then their hats can damage the abrasive skin on the drum. Therefore, at first they are hammered with a recess of at least 5 mm, and the resulting pits are leveled with putty on wood. It must be completely dry before use.
• Also, for the convenience of work, all skirting boards and thresholds are dismantled.

• Of particular danger are wires laid along the floor along the walls or in the cable channels of skirting boards. If they cannot be turned off and removed, then it is recommended to stick the wires on paper masking tape to the wall. It will hold them firmly, and when peeled off, it will not harm even freshly painted walls or wallpaper.
• An important point and the degree of noise of the work performed. Sanding with grinding equipment is possible only on weekdays at working time. Weekends and evenings can only be used if you obtain the consent of the neighbors in advance, especially those living on the floor below.

Do-it-yourself manual floor scraping

To make your work easier, it is important to buy the cycle correctly:

• it is better to purchase a tool in specialized stores, this guarantees the quality of the blade steel and the degree of its sharpening;
• it is more convenient to work with a cycle, which has a wider and shorter handle;
• the optimal blade width is 5 cm.

Stages of work

• The floor is well moistened with water.
• When working, there will be a lot of sawdust with pieces of old varnish, so a respiratory mask is put on the face.
• For the convenience of work, the floor is visually divided into stripes.
• Scraping starts from the center and gradually moves towards the wall.

• The top layer is first removed along the fibers, and then across.
• Since the work is done by hand, it is very important to remove even layers and completely eliminate height differences.
• This process is lengthy and will take several days even when working in a small room.
• Then the parquet is polished. To do this, use a grater with sandpaper. In a circular motion, the surface of the parquet is leveled to smooth out all the irregularities that remain from the sanding.

Floor scraping without special equipment video

Algorithm for performing work on scraping the floor by machine with your own hands

• If the sockets in the apartment are not able to withstand a load of 15-16 amperes, then the equipment is connected directly to the switchboard in the entrance.
• The floor is cleaned of debris, the nails are deepened. If necessary, change individual strips.
• Machine sanding involves several stages of processing with a grain size of the skin from 24 to 120 R. This depends solely on the quality of the floor and is selected individually. As in the case of manual sanding, the floor is moistened with water from a spray bottle.
• First, rough sanding is performed with a sandpaper with a grain size of up to 40 R. This ensures that it is completely removed, protective varnish, paint and the top layer of wood. At the same stage, height differences and other irregularities are leveled. If they are present.
• Work starts from the center and cycles the entire area where the equipment reaches. Then all difficult places (under the battery, corners, etc.) are passed with an angle grinder. It is possible that the most difficult and inaccessible areas will have to be sanded by hand.

• It's time for the polishing stage. An abrasive with a grain size of 60-80 R is put on the drum and also passes from the center over the entire area. The task of this stage is to even out possible scratches after rough cleaning or removal of the remains of the top layer.

Tip: passing large area stripes, each new entry should be carried out with a slight overlap on the previous one, so that there are no sections not passed.

• Small gaps, cracks, depressions and other imperfections will inevitably remain on the restored floor covering. Therefore, the next step will be their putty. To do this, it is better to use a special mastic for wood or car putty.
• Now the smallest abrasive is put on the drum - from 120 R and above. It will smooth out the putty. The result is an even and smooth finish.

Do-it-yourself floor scraping video

How to properly varnish a sanded floor

Having completely finished the final grinding of the cycled parquet, all dust is carefully removed and the floor is wiped.

Tip: If wood dust is removed with a household vacuum cleaner, the filter will clog very quickly and suction will become ineffective. Therefore, cleaning is carried out either industrial vacuum cleaner, or buy a replacement filter and a dust collector for a household one.

In total, there are 4 main ways to apply varnish to the floor covering:

• velor roller. It distributes the varnish evenly, which is especially important if it is tinted. It is recommended to choose a short pile - 4-5 mm. For uniform staining, the varnish is first applied along and then across, performing cruciform movements. To work, you need a paint bath, into which a little varnish is poured and when dipped with a roller, the excess composition is squeezed out. After the first layer, when it dries, it is necessary to sand with a fine-grained sandpaper, since the roller lifts the wood fibers;
• paint brush. The most uniform application will be obtained if you work wide brush. It distributes the varnish well over the surface, but also lifts the wood fibers. Therefore, after the first layer, it is also polished, it is advisable to choose paper with a number of 400-600 units;

• metal spatula. It is used if you want to apply a thick varnish. The thin and sharp surface of the spatula will distribute the composition well and immediately cut off all the wood fibers that can rise. Therefore, the process is significantly reduced, since there is no need for additional grinding;
• spray gun. This method is undeniably the best. The speed and quality of the applied layer cannot be compared with handmade brush or roller. The varnish lays down evenly, thinly, which allows you to make 3 layers with the same consumption of the composition as with a 2-layer brush. Each subsequent layer is applied perpendicular to the previous one.

Do-it-yourself parquet varnishing. Stages of work

• First applied to the floor primer composition or tinting (if a transparent varnish is used in the future). Drying takes 24 hours.
• If at this stage defects of the planks were found, then they can still be puttied with a special parquet putty. But in order to achieve a perfect match with the color, the repair composition will have to be made independently. Construction stores sell special liquids for tinted mixtures, they are mixed with sawdust of the dust fraction to the consistency of plasticine.

• After the putty has hardened, these places are polished and again carefully dedusted.
• The first applied layer of parquet varnish is made as thin as possible. Even a quick-drying composition needs to be given at least a day to dry.
• The surface is carefully examined, if there is a roughness from raised wood fibers, the floor is polished to perfect smoothness. For speed of work, grinding can be done with a belt grinder. At the end of the work, the floor is wiped from dust.
• Then a second and third layer of varnish is applied. The interval after each application is at least 24 hours.
• It will take at least a week to completely dry and polymerize the varnish, and only after this period you can walk on it and put furniture on it.

Tip: often, after applying and drying parquet varnish, there is a sticky feeling. To get rid of it, just wipe the floor with soapy water.

• It is also worth adding that the number of layers of varnish also depends on the characteristics of the wood. If the parquet is made of soft woods - pine, birch or if, then 2 layers are applied, if from hard ones, such as larch or oak, then 2 layers are enough.

Parquet varnishing defects and their causes and elimination

• The varnish does not dry out and remains sticky. The main reasons: too low temperature in the room, no ventilation, cold base of the floor, poor quality hardener in a two-component varnish or not enough of it, old mastic was poorly removed when preparing the floor. In the latter case, there is only one way out - to cycle again. If the reason is any of the above, then it is enough to increase the temperature in the room or ventilate it well.
• influxes white color . The reason lies in the combination high humidity indoors and too cold varnish composition. To eliminate it, you need to heat the floor (ideally, turn on underfloor heating or direct a heat gun to problem areas). When the floor warms up, the sagging is removed with a solvent and a fresh coat of varnish is applied.
• Layering of varnish. The reason for the detachment of the varnish can be a poorly washed tool when applying subsequent layers of coating, poor grinding, poor-quality dedusting after grinding, or incompatibility of solutions. If hurt small areas, then they are manually sanded, sanded and varnished. But it happens that delaminations appear on a large scale throughout the floor, only a new scraping will help here.
• The appearance of small blisters. The reason for the formation of bubbles is too thick a layer of varnish, too low temperature of the applied composition, direct exposure sunlight during polymerization. To eliminate the surface, the surface is ground to remove the varnish and applied again, eliminating all errors.

• Wrinkling of the varnish layer. This error most often occurs when applying layers too quickly, when the previous one is not given enough time to dry. Also, there are varnish compositions that most often form wrinkles - this is a composition based on artificial oil resins. The defect is eliminated only with its large-scale location. The varnish is completely sanded from the entire floor area and a new one is applied.

Options for updating parquet without sanding

In some cases, single parquet defects can be corrected without sanding. To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• varnish. It can be alkyd, epoxy, acrylic or water based. The main thing is that it is resistant and abrasion resistant;
• putty composition to match the color of the floor;
• putty knife;
• ruler;
• a hammer;
• a hook rule to hook the slats;
• awl.

Stages of work

• Imitation of joints. After puttying, an even coating is created. Therefore, it is necessary to imitate the junction of the planks so that the floor looks harmonious. You should wait for the putty to harden slightly, but not completely. After that, a ruler is applied and a line is drawn with an awl, continuing the docking line of the planks.
• How to repair scratches on parquet. Here you can not do without a manual cycle. With its help, a scratch or chip is removed to the desired depth. The pod is removed from the treated area and all dust is very carefully removed with a damp cloth. When everything dries, this place is puttied to match the color of the parquet. Usually at the same stage it is necessary to make false joints using the method described above. When the putty finally hardens, it is sanded and varnished in 2-3 layers.
• Removing small scratches. If they are superficial and only scratched decorative varnish, then you can fix it with a special wax pencil.

• How to remove wide gaps between planks. They appear over time, when the parquet begins to dry out. Here you will need a building hair dryer. All planks are held together with mastic, and if they are heated, this mastic becomes pliable. Heating is carried out until a strong smell is felt. Then they hook the bar with a hook and, tapping with a hammer, move it close to the extreme one. And so they do with all the strips in a row. As a result, at the very end there is one big gap. If its width is sufficient, then a wooden insert is placed in it and covered with putty on top. If it is too narrow, then the gap is simply filled with putty. Then it is also sanded and varnished.

The cost of a quality wooden floor or parquet is quite high, and when after a few years, the boards begin to fade, wear out, there is a desire to update them.

It is quite expensive to re-lay the coating completely, in addition, the procedure for laying the board takes a lot of time. In this case, manual or mechanical scraping of the wooden floor is carried out - A quick and cost-effective way to restore your flooring to its original appearance.

In the process of scraping from a wooden surface a layer is scraped off, the thickness of which does not exceed tenths of a millimeter. Processing allows you to clean and restore the original color of the parquet or floorboard, to renew the appearance.

Purpose of the procedure

Scraping an old wooden floor eliminates cracks and deflections, stains from oil and other stubborn dirt, which as a result prolongs the life of the coating. After sanding, any wood floor looks much better. You can scrape not only parquet, but also simple floors made of pine boards.

Note! Before scraping, the tree should be well dried out. This is especially true for new floors.

If the boards are very worn (thinned), rotten, loosened, then they must be replaced. Looping can be done with minimal material costs if you rent a car and do all the work yourself. We will figure out what the sequence of actions is, whether it is possible to repair the floors with your own hands or it is more reasonable to invite specialists.

Most in a budgetary way is to use a hand scraper, which is a scraper with a metal tip. An alternative is to use sheets of sandpaper attached to the holder. These methods practically do not require monetary costs, but are very laborious. Therefore, they are usually used for cosmetic spot repairs, and with a comprehensive renovation of a wooden floor, machine options are preferred.

Equipment

Scraping technology involves the use of the following types of devices:

• drum (tape);
• disk;
• peeling;
• corner (curb).

Drum-type machines allow processing for a short time large area. At the same time, they cannot ensure a uniform thickness of the removal of the floor covering. Therefore, they are usually used only to remove the top layer of paint or varnish, when quality can be sacrificed for speed.

Disk-type devices are household and professional. Disc machines allow you to process wooden floors efficiently, without leaving irregularities on the surface. The disadvantages of using it include the high cost. Typically, scraping machines of this class are used by teams of professionals involved in interior decoration. The device is equipped with discs with a fine, medium and coarse fraction of abrasive material.

The peeler is used to remove the old coating from the surface. The device is equipped with a wire pile roller, which is used to clean the painted floor or parquet from a durable paint layer.

Due to its design features, the curb scraper will allow you to clean the wooden floor in hard-to-reach places. The device cleans the areas adjacent to the wall, as well as corners and joints in the room.

Of the tools in the work, you may need a screwdriver. It is used to deepen the heads of self-tapping screws deep into the surface of the boards. This must be done so as not to damage the disks of the scraper.

It is not necessary to purchase all of the listed tools, but a complete set will greatly speed up the repair process. An alternative to buying is the option of renting necessary equipment. At a minimum, you can get by with a disk apparatus and a device for scraping curbs.

Modern devices allow scraping without dust, but after work debris may remain, so cleaning is an integral part of the procedures.

Scraping old floor technology

They begin scraping the old wooden floor with the preparation of the room, completely freeing it from furniture.

Pictures and shelves on the walls are best protected from dust with a film. Interior doors removed from the hinges, the doorway must be covered with a film so that dust does not penetrate into other rooms. Windows before starting work, on the contrary, it is better to open wide. It is necessary to purchase headphones, as the device produces a lot of noise. A respirator is used to protect the respiratory system. The process of sanding wooden floors consists of four stages.

The first stage is the preparation of the coating. Defects must be eliminated by replacing damaged parts of floorboards or parquet slabs. The gaps between the boards are filled with sawdust. Lacquer residues are removed by treating them with a solvent followed by a scraper. The floor prepared for scraping must be washed and dried for a couple of days.

After that, you can process the wooden floor with a grinder. The sanding procedure begins with the use of coarse-grained sanding sheets. They will allow you to remove the remnants of the paintwork, remove bumps and protruding defects. After turning on the machine, it must be carefully placed on the floor and moved across the room, trying to keep the machine level. Moving straight from wall to wall, you need to process the entire surface of the room.

Wood with a serpentine (winding arrangement of fibers) is less amenable to mechanical processing. Sanding sheets of medium grit are used for scraping serrated boards. It is necessary to move around the room diagonally, this will provide more smooth surface. After pre-treatment of the curly boards, you need to change the sanding sheet to a fine-grained one and repeat the processing of the entire area with it.

Scraping the floorboard against the walls is the final stage of the procedure. For this, a special curb apparatus is usually used, with the help of which the sections of the floor adjacent to the wall are cycled. The procedure begins with discs with a medium grain size, and then the surface is additionally treated with a fine-grained disc.

After finishing work, it is necessary to remove all sanding products by vacuuming and wiping the floor. Next, you can proceed to applying a varnish coating to the surface of the parquet.

Floor treatment after sanding

After removing the top layer of the floor covering, you should immediately prepare the wooden floor for varnishing. First putty the gaps between the boards. Previously, the composition of the putty must be prepared according to the instructions. The paste is applied to all visible holes by hand until they are completely filled. Thus, the subsequent ingress of moisture and dust between the parquet elements is prevented. The composition takes time to dry and settle. If necessary, the procedure is repeated, leveling the putty layer in the places of subsidence.

Re-sanding the seams where the putty was placed is carried out using fine-grained discs to remove protruding excess. After it, it is also necessary to sweep the dust or vacuum the room.

The application of the first layer of varnish is carried out to give the wood strength and durability. The first layer dries within two days. After that, it is necessary to carry out light grinding again for better adhesion and surface cleaning.

The last stage of work is the application of a second layer of varnish, which will provide a shiny texture to the wood and protect it from premature wear.

Note! On floors from conifers do not recommend the use of water-soluble varnishes, as they are highly absorbed.

On expensive, rare species wooden parquet apply up to five layers of varnish. The flooring renewed in this way will serve its owners for at least another five years. If the floor is pine, it is advisable to distribute the furniture evenly over its surface to avoid overloading.

Important Notes

To ensure a high-quality cycling result, the following recommendations should be followed. The scraper must move continuously and very smoothly along the grain of the wood.

The direction depends on the pattern and the way the plates or boards are laid:

• herringbone parquet laying is cycled at an angle of 45 degrees;
• with a rectangular pattern, scraping is carried out at a right angle;
• decorative parquet should be scraped in circles or in a spiral, from the wall to the center of the room.

The final finishing is carried out with a surface grinder along and across the parquet flooring.

In the general case, scraping should be carried out by specialists, since it will be problematic for a beginner to level the floor over the entire area and evenly apply paintwork the first time. However, if the budget does not allow to involve masters of finishing works, then it is quite possible to carry out the repair of wooden floors on your own.