Attached chimney. How to make a chimney

Let's talk about how to make a chimney correctly, considering different designs chimneys and requirements for their installation.

The flue for a copper is intended for removal of products of combustion of fuel in the atmosphere. Actually, any heating boiler, if it is not electric, can only work if there is a properly made chimney.

What types of chimneys are available?

CHIMNEY TYPES FOR THE HEATING SYSTEM

According to the installation method, chimneys are:

• external attachments;
• double horizontal;
• internal vertical.

According to the principle of connection to boilers, chimneys are divided into:

• separate (separately for each heating boiler);
• combined (exit from, for example, two boilers is combined into one common, which leads to the street).

Now we will analyze how to properly make a chimney of each type.

HORIZONTAL CHIMNEY

The easiest way is to make a horizontal chimney: you just need to make a hole in the wall of the boiler room to the street:

1. Horizontal chimney

Such chimneys are suitable only for boilers with forced draft.

OUTER CHIMNEY

For such chimneys, forced draft is not needed: the exhaust gases are discharged due to natural atmospheric draft. With such a chimney device, the pipe from the boiler goes through the wall to the street, and then the chimney rises along the wall to the roof:

2. External attached chimney

The height of the chimney must be at least 5 m from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the chimney (see the following figure).

In the diagram, D1 and D2 are the diameters of the chimney itself and the outlet on the boiler. So these diameters should be equal and according to the standard 130 mm.

The chimney is attached to the wall with the help of additional parts (clamps and a support frame).

INTERNAL CHIMNEY

The internal chimney immediately rises from the boiler up, passes through all the ceilings and then goes to the roof:

3. Scheme of the internal chimney

It is desirable to make the internal chimney two-layer, laying thermal insulation between the layers - to avoid fire from heating the chimney. Thermal insulation also prevents the formation of condensate inside the chimney.

CHIMNEY IN THE WALL OF THE HOUSE

The internal chimney can also be mounted in the wall of the house - inside the brickwork (see Fig. A below): from the boiler, the pipe goes into a channel inside the wall and rises to the roof through this channel.

4. A - internal chimney, made inside the brickwork; dependence of the height of the pipe on the distance to the roof ridge; B - the location of the pipe in the case of an attached boiler room.

WHY TO INSULATE THE CHIMNEY?

When any fuel is burned, water vapor is produced. In the chimney, the steam cools down, and at a temperature of 55 degrees and below, the steam condenses and forms water droplets. The water enters chemical reaction with various compounds from exhaust gases, due to which various aggressive solutions are formed. To prevent such cooling, the chimneys are made double and insulated.

REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEVICE OF THE CHIMNEY

To the above, let's look at the diagrams on how chimneys are arranged.

Vertical execution. If the boiler is floor-standing and the floors are combustible, there must be a non-combustible substrate under the boiler: an asbestos sheet plus a metal sheet.

Chimney passage through wooden wall(and in general a wall of combustible material) must have a fire seal of at least 0.5 meters around the chimney.

The next requirement is the length of the horizontal section of the chimney: from the axis of the boiler to the axis of the chimney, which is outside, should be no more than 2 meters, otherwise the draft will be poor.

On the pipe section, located on the street, the pipe is two-layered and thermal insulation is laid between the layers - to prevent condensate in the pipe. But in any case, there should be a pocket at the bottom vertical section pipes for cleaning and removal of condensate.

On fig. 3 chimney that runs vertically through the ceiling: in this case through the ceiling and roof. The requirements are the same here. A requirement is also added: from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the pipe, a distance of at least 5 m.

Chimney diameter for gas boiler, set by the manufacturer, must be equal to the diameter of the chimney leaving the room. It happens that boilers with a smaller chimney diameter (about 80 mm), then inner diameter the rest of the chimney must be at least 130 mm. All these requirements must be taken into account, because if you do not do it right, you will have problems with commissioning. gas equipment.

On the following scheme(Fig. 4, A) the option is considered when the chimney is embedded in the channel outer wall. The following requirements must be met here: there must be a cleaning hatch below the pipe entry into the wall channel. It happens that in cold weather sparrows, pigeons, etc. sit on the top of the chimney, they suffocate from carbon monoxide and fall into the chimney. Naturally, all this garbage will be collected until it clogs the entire chimney.

WHAT HEIGHT SHOULD THE CHIMNEY BE?

Consider how the outlet of the chimney itself can be positioned relative to the roof (Fig. 4, A, B, C).

If the pipe is at a distance of 1.5 ... 3 meters from the ridge, then the pipe is brought to the level with the ridge.

If from the pipe to the ridge is less than 1.5 meters, then the pipe should be located at least 0.5 m above the ridge.

In diagram B, the boiler room is attached to the house, while the requirements for the height of the pipe are the same as if the pipe were located on the roof.

Why is the height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge important? So that when strong wind when air turbulences occur, the igniter in the boiler did not blow out.

Here are the answers to the basic questions about how to properly make a chimney.

Not a single boiler plant or stove that burns any type of fuel can do without a chimney. On the this moment exist big choice various materials for the construction of chimneys. Of these, the most preferred are modular products supplied in kits, the so-called sandwiches. AT this material issues related to the design of such pipes and their choice in each case will be highlighted. We will also consider how to properly install a sandwich chimney with your own hands.

Sandwich chimney device

Modular kits got such a name because they consist of separate finished parts– modules of fixed dimensions (usually 1 m long).

Each module is a sandwich pipe consisting of 3 layers:

• internal circuit for combustion products: made of heat-resistant stainless steel;
• insulation layer: usually it is basalt fiber with a density of up to 200 kg / m3, less often - polyurethane foam;
• outer contour: serves as protection for thermal insulation material. The contour material is stainless or galvanized steel.

The design has a cylindrical shape, as it is considered optimal in terms of aerodynamics. The layers are fastened together with a special adhesive, the thickness of the thermal insulation may be different depending on the specific operating conditions. The modules are connected to each other in a way sewer pipes, so one end is made in the form of a socket, and the second has a narrowing.

In addition to straight sections, sandwich chimneys are equipped with a tee for tapping into a vertical section, a condensate drain assembly and fasteners. If necessary, the kit can be supplemented with the same insulated bends at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees in order to make channel turns, and even ready-made nodes for passing through ceilings (cuts) and roofs (roofs). The advantages of three-layer systems over other chimneys are as follows:

• quick and easy installation: the construction of any other pipe with insulation will take much more time;
• excellent performance and durability;
• outside the chimney sandwich pipes have a low temperature and are therefore fireproof;
• products are aesthetically pleasing.

Note. Many manufacturers offer sandwich kits with outer powder coating almost any color.

Before choosing three-layer pipes, a chimney installation diagram must be drawn. Ideally, such important parameters as the diameter and height of the chimney are calculated by specialists, but homeowners rarely turn to them for help, trying to save money and solve all issues on their own. To make it as easy as possible for them, we will give a few recommendations in this regard.

The diameter of the chimney pipe can be selected according to the outlet pipe of the boiler installation. The rule is simple: the cross section of the sandwich should not be less than that of this pipe. More is allowed. As for the height, you can get a guaranteed result if you take its value at least 6 m. Moreover, the height is measured from the grate of the solid fuel boiler to the upper cut of the pipe.

If the boiler is gas, diesel or pellet, then it is necessary to measure the height of the chimney from the burner. At the same time, it is necessary that the chimney, or rather, its cut, does not fall into the zone of wind backwater, otherwise the natural draft will be very weak. To avoid this, the following scheme is used in the calculations:

In order to reduce the resistance of smoke channels, it is not recommended to do big number turns, maximum - 3. And then, we must strive to use knees everywhere at an angle of 45º, and not 90. The length of the horizontal section to the tie-in is no more than 1 m. Following these recommendations, it is necessary to draw wiring diagram and mark on it the places where the gas duct is attached to building structures.

When the scheme is ready, you can safely pick up sandwich chimneys. There are a few caveats here related to the quality of the products and the presence of a large number of fakes on the market. The first moment: high-quality stainless steel alloyed with chromium does not attract a magnet at all. This fact must always be verified by taking with you a magnet wrapped in cloth. The latter is needed in order not to scratch the shiny surface of the metal during the check and not create a reason for conflict with the seller. If the magnet is even a little attracted, then you have a poor-quality product.

Pay attention to the thickness of the steel from which the chimney sandwich is made. For example, quality products Russian production, sold under the VOLCANO brand, are made of metal 0.5 mm thick. When you come across a thinner stainless steel, know that it will burn out just as quickly, be guided by a thickness of at least 0.5 mm when choosing.

Well, the last. Carefully examine the tee where the horizontal section cuts. For convenience, ask the seller to attach a condensate collection unit to it. Then the opposite end of the tee, where the chimney sandwich pipe is connected, should have a socket, not a narrowing. If this is not the case, you should refuse such a purchase.

Note. When connecting three-layer modules of the gas duct, the inner contour of the upper section enters the socket of the lower one, and the outer one, on the contrary, is put on the lower pipe. Therefore, on a tee, the socket must be observed from above, in the inner contour. You will get more information about choosing sandwich chimneys by watching the video:

How to assemble a sandwich chimney

First, a little about the scheme according to which the chimney is correctly installed from sandwich pipes. There are two of them: for smoke and for condensate, and the first one is wrong. This is easy to figure out by looking at the figure:

On the left, the red arrow shows how, when assembling “through the smoke”, the condensate flowing down the walls safely enters the sandwich through the gap with an incorrect connection. The worst thing is that during operation you will not see these streaks, as on a conventional single-walled chimney. All condensate will go into the insulation, and then, when it freezes, it will gradually break the pipe, separating the upper circuit. That is why it is so important to pay attention to this fact when choosing pipes, as we said above.

The figure on the right shows the correct assembly of sandwich chimneys - "by condensate". The latter in this case successfully flows over the joint and rushes down into the condensate collector. The same thing happens outside, precipitation flows down the pipe without flowing inward and without soaking the insulation.

Pipes for the removal of combustion products are of two types: internal and attached. The first one joins the boiler and goes outside inside the house, bypassing the floors and roofing.

Such chimneys are often used for baths. The second type differs in that the pipe from the boiler immediately goes out, and then rises to the required height. This method is preferable because:

• does not take up space inside the house;
• does not require additional passage nodes through the ceiling;
• much easier to install and cheaper;
• more convenient to maintain.

External attached chimney

In any case, the installation of a sandwich chimney starts from the boiler. First, a horizontal section is connected, whose length cannot exceed 1 m. During installation, a slight slope away from the boiler installation to the vertical channel is observed. The goal is to prevent condensate from entering the heating unit.

The next step is to go through the outer wall. If it is made of non-combustible material, then three-layer chimney pipes are passed through a sleeve made of asbestos or metal. The easiest way is to make a sleeve from a pipe of a larger diameter, and the gap between it and the gas duct must be sealed with asbestos cord or basalt fiber. The tie-in to the tee is located outside, a condensate drainage unit is attached to its lower branch pipe.

When making a passage through the wall, it is necessary to ensure that there is no junction of two sections in this place.

If the wall is wooden, then it will be necessary to provide a gap between it and the pipe of at least 200 mm. Usually, a square opening is cut into the wall for this. required size, where a special metal passage assembly is inserted, shown below in the photo. The flue is laid through it, and the gap is filled with basalt fiber.

The installation of the vertical channel is carried out from the bottom up, using clamps and heat-resistant sealant to seal the mates. Along the way, the chimney is fastened to building structures on steel brackets. The latter are placed in such a way that the mounting clamp does not get into the junction of the two sections of the pipe. A nozzle or umbrella is installed on the cut of the sandwich pipe.

Chimney inside the house

By and large, there is not much difference in the sequence of work here. There are only additional operations when it is necessary to set additional elements chimney in places where it crosses the ceiling and roof.

These places must be chosen so as to maintain a distance from the walls and at the same time not to lay a pipe in the middle of the room. The passage of the floor is similar to the crossing of the outer wall, described above, but the passage through the roof is more difficult to arrange.

Well, when the roof is flat. Then you can use a simple galvanized element, part of which should be brought under the coating to prevent water from leaking. But most often the roof is covered with corrugated board, metal tiles or slate. Then the installation of the pipe and the sealing of the passage is done using a special elastic element called a lid.

Conclusion

It should be noted that the process of assembling a modular sandwich kit is not very difficult. Do-it-yourself chimney installation is quite within the power of homeowners with a head and hands. It is important to calculate everything correctly, draw a diagram and prepare materials. The rest is just painstaking work that requires attention and patience.

Correct installation chimney - necessary condition for the normal functioning of the fireplace, stove or boiler. This article indicates the basic installation rules and calculation principles used in the design and installation of chimneys.

Desire to build a house on their own arises, as a rule, because of the need to save material resources, because the services of specialized enterprises are not cheap. However, the construction of a chimney requires a special approach: one cannot do without the use of special knowledge in this matter. Therefore, let us recall the basic rules for creating effective smoke exhaust systems and the importance of observing them.

Chimney installation rules: what should be the right chimney

The fuel consumption, the amount of heat loss depends on how well the chimney functions, Fire safety and indoor air quality. Therefore, its design and installation must be carried out in accordance with SNiP "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning", DBN V.2.5-20-2001 Appendix G "Removal of combustion products" and other regulatory documents. Let's talk about what should be a properly designed and installed chimney- these are the basic rules for its creation.

The material from which it is made has a great influence on the characteristics of the channel for the removal of combustion products. In new buildings, as a rule, pipes made of acid-resistant stainless steel containing molybdenum are installed. But for stoves and fireplaces that run on wood and coal, ceramic bricks are also quite suitable.

It is preferable that the cross section of the chimney is correct circle: this shape creates the least resistance to the smoke coming out. The height and cross section of the chimney are calculated in accordance with building codes, which will be discussed in more detail later.

Important the right approach to the horizontal sections of the channel: they should not be longer than 1 m, otherwise soot will be deposited and the draft will weaken.

The connection of the heating unit to the chimney pipe often has to be carried out if the diameters in the connection area do not match. To solve the problem, a reduction adapter is used. All joints are carefully sealed.

Docking of pipes is carried out in such a way that their expansions are directed upwards. Due to this, condensate and resins will not be able to flow along the outer wall of the pipe.

A brick chimney is erected according to the project: the laying order must be prescribed for each layer. In this case, one should strive to obtain an inner surface with a minimum of roughness and achieve complete tightness.

An old brick chimney can be used with a new gas boiler only after the sleeve has been completed: an acid-resistant steel pipe is inserted into the middle of the channel, leaving a small gap.

Most flue systems should be provided with revisions for cleaning.

thermal insulation external pipes it is mandatory: this will not only get rid of condensate, but will contribute to the fastest heating of the pipe.

When the channel passes through the floors, it is necessary to take measures to isolate the heated parts from combustible materials.

The outer part of the pipe is securely fixed and protected from the wind. The upper part is closed from atmospheric precipitation with weather vanes or deflectors. An exception is gas equipment: in this case, the installation of a protective cap is a violation.

What is the wrong chimney

Correcting the mistakes made during the construction of the chimney is very difficult and expensive, and sometimes even impossible without dismantling the old system. Here are examples of the most common mistakes and their consequences:

1. The use of materials not intended for the construction of chimneys. So, for gas boilers, the use of bricks is unacceptable: the acid contained in the combustion products will destroy it within a few years. Also cannot be applied asbestos-cement pipes: when heated, they are destroyed. Plastic also does not withstand high temperatures.
2. Errors in choosing the diameter of the pipe and calculating the height of the chimney threaten the absence of normal draft and low system efficiency.
3. Excessive loads on the base of the chimney can cause its destruction.
4. Poor thermal insulation is the cause of condensation and ignition of closely spaced materials.

Chimney height: depending on the angle of the roof and the distance to the ridge

Ceramic bricks, previously used for the construction of chimneys, are increasingly being replaced by systems made from other materials. Most commonly used steel pipes: uninsulated and insulated. In this case, the option without insulation can only be used for internal installation- in a specially constructed mine. The outdoor installation of the pipe requires mandatory insulation, otherwise condensation is inevitable on the internal surfaces.

In order to determine the height of the chimney for an industrially manufactured boiler, you should use the formula: h(m) = (∆p ⋅ Tp ⋅ Tn) / (3459 ⋅ (Tp - 1.1 ⋅ Tn)), where ∆p(Pa) - static thrust, Tr — average temperature in the middle of the pipe (in Kelvin), Tn is the average outside air temperature. The temperature in the pipe (Tr) can be found on the basis of measurements at the outlet of the boiler and is indicated by the manufacturer in the technical passport of the heating equipment. This takes into account natural cooling for each meter of the chimney: in brick - 1 degree, in insulated steel - 2 degrees, in steel without insulation - 5 degrees. Temperature outside (Tn) should be summer: at this time, the thrust will always be weaker than in winter.

However, the results of calculating the height of the chimney in some cases need to be adjusted, but only upwards. The fact is that the house itself is sometimes higher than the obtained value of the height of the chimney. In this case, the following rule applies:

• the chimney, located at a distance of up to 1.5 m from the ridge, must be at least 0.5 m higher than it;
• if it is located within 1.5-3.0 m from the ridge, then its top should not be lower than the ridge;
• at large distances from the chimney outlet to the ridge, the height of the pipe is chosen so that it is not lower than the line drawn from the top of the house down at an angle of 10 degrees.

Chimney height above roof

For solid fuel and gas boilers, the height of the chimney must be at least 5 m: usually, manufacturers indicate this parameter in the accompanying documentation. It should be remembered that a high pipe should be fixed additionally - with the help of stretch marks.

But that's not all: if there is another, more high building, then the chimney must be brought out above the roof of the neighboring building.

Cross-sectional area

The value of this parameter can be calculated by knowing the height of the chimney h(m) and heat load of the burner according to the formula: S = (K ⋅ Q) / (4.19 ⋅ √h), where To is an empirical coefficient numerically equal to 0.02-0.03, and Q(kJ / h) - the performance of the device indicated in the passport, h(m) is the height of the chimney.

If it is easier to act, without formulas, then the following values ​​\u200b\u200bare taken as a basis for the cross section of the smoke duct, made of bricks (the cross section of round channels should be exactly the same area):

• for a unit with a power of up to 3.5 kW - 140 × 140 mm;
• for power from 3.5 to 5.2 kW - 140 × 200 mm;
• for power from 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140 × 270 mm.

A significant excess of the calculated value leads to a deterioration in traction and, as a result, to unstable operation of the heating equipment. A smaller diameter threatens with poor removal of carbon monoxide and other combustion products, and even with a complete cessation of this process.

Additional requirements for chimneys for stoves, fireplaces, solid fuel, gas boilers and gas water heaters

Some rules, not mentioned earlier, that should be observed:

• the use of a solid fuel stove requires mandatory compensation of exhaust ventilation with the help of a supply one;
• chimney channels can be located in the outer walls if they are built from non-combustible materials, but it should be provided with insulation from the outside to prevent the formation of condensate;
• for each furnace (if they are located on different floors), a separate pipe is provided, but it is allowed to use one pipe for two furnaces located on the same floor: at the joints of the pipes, cuts are installed with a height of 1 m or more and a thickness of 12 cm;
• smoke ducts made of bricks should be built with cleaning pockets, which are closed with bricks laid on edge and smeared clay mortar(doors can be installed);
• if necessary, pipe deviations from the vertical at an angle of up to 30 ° and a section length of not more than 1 m are allowed, while the channel cross section must be the same;
• if the roof is made of combustible materials, a mesh spark arrester is installed in the upper part of the chimney;
• between chimneys made of brick or heat-resistant concrete and roofing parts made of combustible materials should be equal to or more than 130 mm, for ceramic non-insulated pipes - 250 mm, for them with insulation - 130 mm;
• the top of the chimney for the fireplace is protected with a weather vane or fungus;
• two devices operating on gas may be connected to a common channel for the removal of combustion products, if these devices are located no further than 750 mm from each other;
• the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney connected to the gas appliance must not be less than the cross-sectional area of ​​the gas outlet pipe of the appliance itself, while top part pipes are not covered with a visor.

Information from regulatory documents establishing the rules for the design and installation of chimneys

Frost-resistant clay bricks are suitable for laying chimneys. Build channels from cinder concrete and other similar materials is strictly prohibited.

For connecting gas appliances to chimneys, connecting pipes made of galvanized or roofing steel 1 mm thick or more. You can also use flexible corrugated metal pipes that are supplied with the equipment. At the same time, it is important that the connecting pipe has a vertical section, the length of which from the lower level of the branch pipe to the axis of the horizontal section of the channel should not be less than 0.5 m. If the ceiling height is less than 2.7 m, this distance may be halved - for equipment equipped with draft stabilizers and up to 0.15 m - for devices without stabilizers. total length horizontal sections in houses of new construction should not be more than 3 m, for old buildings 6 m is allowed. It is necessary to observe a slight slope of the pipe towards the heating device.

Flue ducts should not have more than three turns, while the radius of curvature should be equal to the diameter of the pipe. It is forbidden to lay a chimney through residential premises.

How to take care of your chimney

If the thickness of deposits on the inner surface of the pipe exceeds 2 mm, it is time to start cleaning. You can get rid of dense contaminants with a scraper and a stiff brush with a long folding handle: as you move deeper into the canal (work starts from above), the length of the handle is increased.

The furnace hole must be closed from below: this will prevent soot from entering the room. In addition, it is advisable to cover the furniture with a film, lock the doors and windows. During operation, you can use chemical detergents, for example, "miracle logs", which emit a special non-toxic gas during combustion, from which soot lags behind the surface of the pipe.

There are also effective folk remedies. For example, it is sometimes recommended to heat the stove with aspen wood: in this case, a high flame is formed, which burns deposits on the walls of the pipe. But do it carefully: a large number of soot can cause a fire. You can also burn potato skins: the steam that is generated is effective tool against soot deposits.

Conclusion

The requirements set forth in the article are binding. Otherwise, the chimney will be inefficient and even dangerous. This information will serve as a useful reminder for those who already have some experience with chimneys. For those who do not own it, the material of the article should convince of the need for a serious attitude to the details of the process of creating a chimney. Do not overestimate your capabilities: in order to avoid annoying mistakes you should seek professional help.

Dmitry Portyanoy, rmnt.ru

Having dealt with the boilers, it's time to talk about, having considered the different designs of chimneys and the requirements for their construction.

The flue for a copper is intended for removal of products of combustion of fuel in the atmosphere. Actually, any heating boiler, if it is not electric, can only work if there is a properly made chimney.

What types of chimneys are available?

Types of chimneys for the heating system

According to the installation method, chimneys are:

• external attachments;
• double horizontal;
• internal vertical.

According to the principle of connection to boilers, chimneys are divided into:

• separate (separately for each heating boiler);
• combined (exit from, for example, two boilers is combined into one common, which leads to the street).

Now we will analyze how to properly make a chimney of each type.

Horizontal chimney

The easiest way is to make a horizontal chimney: you just need to make a hole in the wall of the boiler room to the street:

1. Horizontal chimney

Such chimneys are suitable only for boilers with forced draft.

External chimney

For such chimneys, forced draft is not needed: the exhaust gases are discharged due to natural atmospheric draft. With such a chimney device, the pipe from the boiler goes through the wall to the street, and then the chimney rises along the wall to the roof:

2. External chimney

The height of the chimney must be at least 5 m from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the chimney (see the following figure).

In the diagram, D1 and D2 are the diameters of the chimney itself and the outlet on the boiler. So these diameters should be equal and according to the standard 130 mm.

The chimney is attached to the wall with the help of additional parts (clamps and a support frame).

Internal chimney

The internal chimney immediately rises from the boiler up, passes through all the ceilings and then goes to the roof:

3. Scheme of the internal chimney

It is desirable to make the internal chimney two-layer, laying thermal insulation between the layers - to avoid fire from heating the chimney. Thermal insulation also prevents the formation of condensate inside the chimney.

Chimney in the wall of the house

The internal chimney can also be mounted in the wall of the house - inside the brickwork (see Fig. A below): from the boiler, the pipe goes into a channel inside the wall and rises to the roof through this channel.

4. A - internal chimney, made inside the brickwork; dependence of the height of the pipe on the distance to the roof ridge; B - the location of the pipe in the case of an attached boiler room.

Why insulate a chimney?

When any fuel is burned, water vapor is produced. In the chimney, the steam cools down, and at a temperature of 55 degrees and below, the steam condenses and forms water droplets. Water enters into a chemical reaction with various compounds from the exhaust gases, due to which various aggressive solutions are formed. To prevent such cooling, the chimneys are made double and insulated.

Chimney requirements

To the above, let's look at the diagrams on how chimneys are arranged.

Vertical execution. If the boiler is floor-standing and the floors are combustible, there must be a non-combustible substrate under the boiler: an asbestos sheet plus a metal sheet.

Chimney passage through a wooden wall(and in general a wall of combustible material) must have a fire seal of at least 0.5 meters around the chimney.

The next requirement is length of the horizontal section of the chimney: from the axis of the boiler to the axis of the chimney, which is outside, should be no more than 2 meters, otherwise the draft will be poor.

On the pipe section, located on the street, the pipe is two-layered and thermal insulation is laid between the layers - to prevent condensate in the pipe. But in any case, there should be a pocket at the bottom of the vertical section of the pipe for cleaning and draining condensate.

On fig. 3 a chimney that runs vertically through the floors: in this case through the ceiling and roof. The requirements are the same here. A requirement is also added: from the bottom of the boiler to the top of the pipe, a distance of at least 5 m.

Chimney diameter for gas boiler, set by the manufacturer, must be equal to the diameter of the chimney leaving the room. It happens that boilers with a smaller chimney diameter (about 80 mm), then the inner diameter of the rest of the chimney must be at least 130 mm. All these requirements must be taken into account, because if you do not do it right, you will have problems with the commissioning of gas equipment.

The following diagram (Fig. 4, A) considers the option when the chimney is embedded in the channel of the outer wall. The following requirements must be met here: there must be a cleaning hatch below the pipe entry into the wall channel. It happens that in cold weather sparrows, pigeons, etc. sit on the top of the chimney, they suffocate from carbon monoxide and fall into the chimney. Naturally, all this garbage will be collected until it clogs the entire chimney.

How high should the chimney be?

Consider how the outlet of the chimney itself can be positioned relative to the roof (Fig. 4, A, B, C).

If the pipe is at a distance of 1.5 ... 3 meters from the ridge, then the pipe is brought to the level with the ridge.

If from the pipe to the ridge is less than 1.5 meters, then the pipe should be located at least 0.5 m above the ridge.

In diagram B, the boiler room is attached to the house, while the requirements for the height of the pipe are the same as if the pipe were located on the roof.

Why is it important height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge? So that in strong winds, when air turbulence occurs, the igniter in the boiler does not blow out.

Here are the answers to basic questions about how to make a chimney.

how to make a chimney

The well-thought-out design of the chimney for a gas boiler and its competent installation is an important component of effective heating in a private house. Mistakes are unacceptable here, otherwise there will be insufficient traction, costs will increase, and the output of combustion products to the outside will be incomplete. It is difficult and expensive to remodel a chimney, so it is important to take into account all the advice of specialists in order to minimize costs and increase the efficiency of the boiler.

What is important to know about the construction of the chimney to the boiler?

All types of private sector heating systems are built on combustion various kinds fuel when consuming a certain amount of oxygen and removing it to the outside harmful products combustion. Basic means of heating:

• fireplace;
• bake;
• boiler.

All of them have something in common - a chimney for the disposal of combustion products that should not enter the living room. Proper installation of the chimney on the gas boiler guarantees:

• high high productivity of the boiler or furnace (efficiency level);
• efficiency of the heating system;
• the safety of everyone living in the house;
• comfortable home heating;
• operation of the boiler without problems.

The main types of chimneys

The type of chimney largely depends on the time and place of installation of the heating system. If a gas boiler is installed in an old house, then you have to find an option with the least destruction of the walls and their reconstruction. However, one cannot do without perforating the wall in order to bring out the external chimney. In new houses, the heating system is planned during general design, so the boiler room and internal chimney are usually already planned. For example, the photo shows how to make a chimney for a gas boiler, given the design.

There are 2 options for installing a chimney for a gas boiler:

• external (remote, attached);
• internal (built-in).

If it is being built inside the house, then one cannot do without a foundation or foundation for a future chimney and a protective masonry shaft. It involves dividing floors between floors, attic and roof. A self-supporting system for the removal of combustion products is more appropriate and reliable, it is not afraid of external influences. Insulation with this type of chimney is minimal, and the efficiency is greatest. Sometimes it makes sense to attach them to the side of the wall, near which the boiler should stand inside the house.

A remote or external chimney requires proper fastening and additional insulation, and more condensate forms in it, so it is also important to take care of this container. Structural elements of a remote modular chimney:

• segments (parts or sections);
• connecting gas duct (adapter or branch pipe);
• brackets for wall mounting;
• inspection hatch in the lower section of the chimney.

Arguments in favor of making a chimney yourself

Installation of a chimney for a gas boiler can be entrusted to specialists, but some are ready to do everything on their own, especially if there is a tool, and the owner has golden hands.

The simplest option is to use a ready-made external chimney, that is, a factory-made modular design, and then competently insulate it. Sometimes it makes sense to make all the details yourself, especially when you have everything necessary materials and tools for cutting metal. Then it will be much cheaper to make a chimney for a gas boiler in a private house on your own.

However, even if there is a desire to independently attach external chimney, it is important to take into account several factors:

• the ratio of the diameter of the chimney to the cross section of the pipe of the gas boiler, which is checked when buying a boiler and a chimney;
• the height of the chimney must be greater than the top point of the roof - to ensure traction in any direction of the wind;
• remote (external) chimney must be insulated from the outside;
• the chimney pipe along its entire length must be smooth and round;
• the inner surface must be protected from condensate and caustic substances inside, that is, inert to smoke chemicals;
• the material of the inner surface of the chimney must be heat-resistant, that is, withstand within 150 - 250 ° C.

Project, diagrams and drawings

A competent house project provides for a project that takes into account the heating system and the type of chimney - internal or remote. Before installing gas equipment, a calculation of the chimney for a gas boiler must be made:

• height;
• width;
• design features.

Initially, it is worth looking at samples and diagrams finished projects, but in the end you need to make your own drawing, where exact dimensions, with considering design features Houses. See examples of chimneys for gas boilers, photo:

Each heating system is designed for the design capacity of the boiler and the type of fuel. The boiler is combined or gas - it is important to decide on this in advance, since there is a difference in temperature regime. It is equally important to consider compliance with fire prevention measures.

The parameters of the chimney for a gas boiler are usually indicated in the instructions from the equipment manufacturer. But it is impossible to ignore building codes so that the construction of the chimney does not cause damage to the building. If a heating system with a gas boiler is made after the completion of the construction of a private house, then most often it is necessary to make an external chimney.

The chimney device for a gas boiler is designed on the basis of current standards and parameters of heating equipment. It is desirable that the gas boiler be installed in a separate boiler room with ventilation, on ground floor to ensure the removal of carbon monoxide. The entire heating system must be reliable and tight.

Basic requirements for a chimney:

• inner surface of metal protected from condensate and caustic substances, and from other fire-resistant materials;
• complete tightness throughout;
• withstands high temperatures;
• provides sufficient traction to prevent combustion products from entering the structure;
• the main part is installed vertically, and the turning and tilting parts occupy a small part.
• the diameter of the exhaust pipe must match the cross section of the boiler chimney;
• should rise above the top of the roof to provide traction in any weather and prevent air leakage in crosswinds.

The diameter of the chimney for a gas boiler must be sufficient to ensure guaranteed draft, as well as repairs and maintenance, if necessary. Do not forget about condensate, which does not evaporate, but accumulates, and must be removed. All these parameters are difficult for a beginner in the construction business, so it is advisable to contact specialists at the design stage.

Design features of different types of chimney

The material from which the chimney for a gas boiler is made depends on the durability of the entire heating system, as well as its efficiency and reliability in operation. More recently, all chimneys were laid out of refractory bricks or ordinary pipes were also inserted there. This did not protect him from the formation of condensate and soot deposits. With the advent of heating equipment combined type and household gas boilers began to use new materials.

One of the materials in demand for the chimney is a stainless steel pipe with molybdenum. It is considered one of the most effective for protection against condensate, oxides and acrid smoke. They are released in ready-made, that is, the optimal cylindrical shape. This contributes to good traction and the rapid passage of smoke and other gaseous substances with minimal deposition of solid sediment and condensate.

Attention: When installing the chimney, make sure that there are as few defects, scratches and catches on the bends as possible - soot and plaque settle there most of all, which are difficult to remove, but this interferes with the operation of the gas boiler and reduces its efficiency.

When choosing blanks for a chimney pipe, the ratio of the cross section (pipe width) and its height (internal length of the pipe) is important. All these parameters are usually indicated in the instructions for heating equipment, and the efficiency of the entire heating system in the house depends on compliance with the recommendations. Optimal Height chimney - about 5 m, but this figure varies, depending on the number of storeys and design features of the house.

Although stainless steel with molybdenum is considered the most suitable materials for chimneys, but today the sandwich system is gaining popularity. This is a double pipe, and the layer between them is insulating basalt wool. This is suitable for a remote chimney that does not need to be insulated from the outside.

There should be a minimum number of turns of the chimney (elbows) in the design of the system, and each is supposed to have a special inspection hatch - this is necessary to clean the channel of the smoke-removing system.

Attention: It is important to provide a container for condensate, which is mounted below the pipe directly at the gas boiler. And remember that each fireplace, stove or boiler had to be equipped with an autonomous chimney. A common chimney in adjacent rooms contributes to reverse draft, that is, it will draw smoke and carbon monoxide to a living space.

Until recently, not only brickwork and steel pipes, but also galvanized and asbestos pipes. But they are more suitable for fireplaces in country houses and small houses. In many respects, they are inferior to modern equipment made of stainless steel with a molybdenum coating.

The polymer material FuranFlex, from which liners for chimneys and the installation of smoke exhaust systems are made, meets all technical requirements. It resembles fire-retardant reinforced plastic that does not degrade from acidic fumes and condensation.

Galvanized pipes are less durable than those with a special coating, but can be successfully used for up to 5 years. By that time, it will be possible to find a worthy and better replacement for them.

Asbestos-cement pipes were also widely used in the construction of chimneys. Until now, they are in demand for a bath or a Russian stove. These pipes absorb condensate, but they are not tight enough at the joints, and when overheated, they split with an effect like an explosion.

The main disadvantage of a brick chimney is the gradual destruction from condensate. AT modern systems heating they are used as mines for metal chimneys. The stainless steel pipes inside the brick flue are airtight and resistant to high temperatures, even when the boiler is running at full capacity.

Do-it-yourself chimney for a gas boiler: installation

If a heating equipment purchased, the place for the boiler is prepared, there is a project or diagram, instructions on how to properly make a chimney for a gas boiler are in the documentation for the boiler. But it is important to do everything in stages:

1. Assemble the chimney parts to make sure the pipe is complete.

2. Connect the chimney to the gas boiler.

3. Fix the design details.

4. Check all connections for tightness and finish with joint insulation.

If it is required to install a remote (external) chimney for a gas boiler, then it is led out through the wall, sometimes a ready-made vent and a window are used. In a blank wall, you will need to make a hole of the diameter you need, where the pipe plus insulating material freely exits.

Tip: Do not rush to make a hole until you are sure that the calculations are accurate and the markings match the drawings. The hole in the wall should be neat and gentle for general design walls.

One section of the chimney pipe is brought into the finished hole, immediately fixed and insulated. From the side of the street, the links are successively increased and checked with a plumb line. Next, the pipe is attached to the wall with brackets. When a sufficient height is reached, a terminal valve is fixed to the top, which protects the flue from jigging.

It is desirable to treat a double pipe with a layer of a composition that protects against corrosion. A single pipe (without mineral wool between the layers of the chimney) must be additionally insulated. The final stage is the connection of the pipe to the gas boiler nozzle and complete sealing.

Attention: Installing a gas boiler chimney through the ceiling and roof is considered more laborious - you have to make several holes strictly one above the other so that the pipe stands vertically. Therefore, for those who do not have building skills, such installation is not recommended to be done on their own. Making holes like this better for specialists, and only after the completion of the draft work, you can start assembling the chimney.

The chimney should rise above the roof ridge by at least 25-30 cm. It is important to properly insulate all places where the pipe passes through the roof, in accordance with the roofing material. Usually use mineral wool and roof linings for the chimney.

An external chimney is also insulated with basalt wool so that the pipe warms up faster, for full traction, and condensate forms as little as possible.