Passing a sandwich chimney through the roof. Roof penetration for chimneys

The system for the safe removal of combustion products from furnaces, boilers, instantaneous water heaters is one of the most serious problems solved during the installation of such equipment. Moreover, safety issues are very diverse: this includes ensuring the correct operation of the heating equipment itself, and eliminating the likelihood of building structures igniting from overheating, and guaranteed prevention of toxic gases entering the premises. All this range of problems can be solved by competent, in strict accordance with the requirements of technology, installation of modern kits.

Such products are produced in a wide variety of components, which allows you to assemble chimneys of any degree of complexity, optimally fitting into the architectural specifics of each particular house. A layer of insulation between the inner and outer walls can significantly reduce the volume of the pipe formed in the channel due to a sharp temperature drop of condensate, and such chimneys are very often located outside buildings, which greatly simplifies general construction and installation work.

However, quite often there are situations when the external installation of the chimney is impossible, impractical, or the owners simply refuse this approach for reasons of aesthetics of the facade of their house. The solution is obvious - to install a chimney from sandwich pipes through the roof. True, this method seems to be more difficult, if only because of the need to carry out a safe and well-insulated penetration through floors and roofs. However, there is nothing impossible in this.

What is a sandwich chimney pipe. Advantages and disadvantages of the system

The use of ordinary metal pipes as chimney channels is not a novelty - they were used quite widely before, for example, for stoves or stoves. This wave is understandable - a number of benefits before, for example, brickwork:

• The installation of such a chimney does not take much time, since the installation is made from large parts.
• The round section of the channel is optimal for the best traction, since it does not create unnecessary turbulence in the gas flow.
• The smooth inner surface of the pipe, which does not create unnecessary resistance, also contributes to good traction, and besides, soot buildup is formed on it to a much lesser extent.

But at the same time, such a scheme also has pronounced shortcomings , moreover, so serious that they are able to outweigh all the advantages listed above.

• Metal (steel in particular) has an extremely high thermal conductivity, that is, in open areas of the chimney or when it passes through unheated rooms, the gas flow will cool very quickly. And this leads to a decrease in thrust in the pipe, and in addition, the magnitude of thrust becomes highly dependent on current weather conditions.
• Combustion products of any type of fuel always contain a large amount of water vapor. The above-mentioned temperature difference inside and outside the channel causes abundant formation of condensate, which causes rapid soot overgrowth of pipes and activation of metal corrosion processes.

• If we are talking about corrosion, then we must not forget that the exhaust gases always contain very aggressive chemical compounds, in particular, sulfuric acid. Under such conditions, the service life of pipes made of metal that is not resistant to corrosion will be very limited - they will quickly burn through. And this is a direct path to the fire.
• Finally, the high thermal conductivity of metal means that pipe indoors and when passing through building structures will always be a potential safety hazard. Thus, enhanced precautions will be required to prevent overheating and ignition of the building structures of the house, in order to exclude thermal burns if the chimney is accidentally touched in the areas of its passage through the premises.

Chimney prices

To preserve all the advantages mentioned, but at the same time to minimize the disadvantages of a metal chimney, a system of insulated sandwich pipes was developed. In fact, this is a "pipe in a pipe", separated by a layer of heat-resistant thermal insulation material. An exemplary device diagram is shown in the illustration below:

1 - the chimney itself. Special requirements are imposed on it - it must be made of high-quality steel with pronounced resistance to corrosion, and the manufacture of the pipe must only be welded, using argon welding in a protective gas environment (TIG technology). A pipe with a seam seam is absolutely not acceptable.

2 - outer metal casing. Most often it is also made of stainless steel. However, budget options are also on sale - from galvanized steel. In addition, it is possible to purchase sandwich pipes with an external decorative coating, for example, if it is necessary to maintain the appearance of the facade or the interior design of the premises through which the chimney passes.

3 - thermal insulation layer. As a rule, this function is performed by heat-resistant mineral wool made of basalt fibers, with a density of 120 to 200 kg / m³. The thickness of the insulation layer may vary - it is selected in accordance with specific conditions: the type and power of the heater, the layout of the chimney, the climatic conditions of the region and other criteria.

4 - pipes are equipped with special elements for quick and reliable installation. In most cases, this is a system of sockets and constrictions, which, when connected, together with the sealants used, form a sealed assembly. For greater reliability, additional tightening of these connecting nodes with the help of clamps is provided. There are other ways of mounting, for example, in some models, flange connections with threaded fasteners are provided.

As a result, the chimney structure assembled from such modules acquires new positive qualities:

• Due to the stability of temperature indicators inside the chimney duct, regardless of the weather and the location of a particular section of the system, stable even draft is ensured.
• The formation of condensate, although not completely excluded, is still minimized.
• The outer surface of the sandwich pipe does not heat up to critical temperatures, and will not pose a danger to people living in the house, if it is necessary to pass it through the premises of the upper floor, attic, attic.
• It becomes much easier to organize pipe penetrations through ceilings and roofs. In addition, many manufacturers immediately provide special feed-through modules of the required size in the manufactured kits.
• The chimney system itself, assembled from sandwich modules, does not have a significant mass, and it is quite possible to arrange it according to the plug-in principle, that is, the chimney rests directly on the stove or boiler. It will not exert excessive load on the supporting structures of the house when attached to them.

• A wide variety of components for assembling such a system allows you to create a chimney of the required degree of complexity, diameter, insulation thickness, height, and the assembly process itself is simple and intuitive for any technically “savvy” homeowner.

How to choose the right kit for installing a sandwich chimney

The choice of accessories for the installation of the chimney must be approached with the utmost responsibility. First of all, since the chimney will be installed indoors, with a passage through the ceiling and roof, the issues of ensuring the complete safety of its operation come to the fore. Well, it is clear that such work is carried out with the expectation of long-term use, and so that after a few years the owners are not disappointed, the purchased components must be of high quality, certified, accompanied by documented manufacturer's warranty obligations.

Prices for sandwich chimneys

sandwich chimneys

The choice always comes down to the evaluation of several criteria:

• The manufacturing quality of the components of the sandwich chimney and the materials used in the production process.
• The capacity of the chimney channel, that is, the cross section of the inner pipe.
• The thickness of the required thermal insulation layer.
• The prepared installation scheme and the parts and assemblies necessary for its implementation.

Let's go through these points in turn.

Material for the manufacture of sandwich chimney pipes

Such systems for the removal of combustion products in our time are in extremely high demand. Unfortunately, the increased demand, as it, alas, usually happens, is accompanied by the appearance on the market of low-quality products, either “without identification marks” at all, or masquerading as a particular brand.

It is clear that a self-respecting owner will not purchase obviously low-grade goods in incomprehensible outlets or from hands - there is no need to wait for quality guarantees here. But it happens that in large stores no-no, and counterfeit goods will appear. So the documentation (and the registration certificate must be mandatory) pay increased attention.

It also happens that sellers interested in selling at any price do not try to draw the attention of consumers to the features of the metal used for the manufacture of pipes. But the stainless steel outwardly looks almost the same, and often an ignorant buyer purchases a product that, in principle, is not suitable for the existing or planned operating conditions of the chimney system.

As a result, a situation becomes very likely when, after installation and, it would seem, several months of flawless operation (or even two or three years, which is also extremely short for such a design!), An outwardly “beautiful and shiny” chimney suddenly begins to show signs of leakage gases into the room. And this is already a serious signal that far from everything is in order with him, and a serious accident is not far off, fraught with burning out of the inner pipe, which often ends in fire hazardous situations.

• Therefore, be sure to pay attention to the grade of stainless steel from which the inner and outer pipes of the sandwich chimney are made. If there is no mention of this, the acquisition should be categorically abandoned.

The following table will help you choose. Of course, not all grades of stainless steels are represented in it, but only those that are usually used for the manufacture of sandwich chimneys and are most often found on sale.

Stainless steel grade according to AISI (USA), EN (EU), DIN (Germany), GOST (Russia) standards				Brief description and recommendations for use
AISI	EN	DIN	GOST
AISI 430	1.4016	X6Cr17	12X17	One of the most affordable options. Suitable for use exclusively in non-aggressive conditions. Thermal resistance - low, weak resistance to corrosion. Poor quality welding. Suitable only for the outer casing of the chimney.
AISI 439	1.4510	X3CrTi17	08Х17Т	The difference from the previous brand is the presence of titanium additives, which increases the thermal and anti-corrosion resistance of the metal. As a material for the inner pipe of a sandwich chimney, it is permissible to use with heat generators or instantaneous water heaters that operate only on gas.
AISI 304	1.4301	X5CrNI18-10	08X18H10	This steel has good heat resistance, but resistance to acid corrosion is low. It is not used for the inner pipe of the chimney, since corrosion can eat such a pipe literally within a few months, and for the outer lining it is quite suitable.
AISI 316	1.4401	X5CrNiMo17-12-2	08Х17Н13М2	Austenitic chromium-nickel-molybdenum steel, resistant to very aggressive flue gas environments, including those with a high content of sulfuric acid. Thermal stability is average, therefore it is better to use for gas-fired equipment with a maximum temperature of combustion products up to 450ºС.
AISI 316Ti	1.4571	X6CrNiMoTi17-12-2	10X17H13M2T	Steel similar to the previous one, but with much higher heat resistance. Withstands heat load up to 800 ÷ 850 ºС, that is, chimneys with an inner pipe made of such material can be used with solid fuel equipment.
AISI 316L	1.4435	X2CrNiMo18-14-3	03Х17Н14М2	In this variety, the emphasis is on anti-corrosion and chemical anti-acid resistance, especially in the area of ​​welded joints. True, due to a decrease in the overall heat resistance, which is limited by a threshold of 425 ºС, when this value is exceeded, the strength qualities of steel decrease sharply. Great option for any gas equipment.
AISI 321	1.4541	X6CrNiTi18-10	08X18H10T	Steel with high corrosion resistance and heat resistance. According to its parameters, it is a kind of "golden standard" for use in combustion products removal systems. The maximum temperature regime of operation is 800 ºС, that is, it is suitable for equipment with any type of fuel.
AISI 310S	1.4845	X12CrNi25-21	20X23H18	Stainless steel, which belongs to the category of heat-resistant steel, withstands, without any loss of quality, operating temperatures reaching up to 1000 ºС. It is used for chimneys installed on solid fuel pyrolysis boilers of high power.

Currently, from the countries of Southeast Asia, a stream of products made of stainless steel that meets AISI 201 - 202 standards has begun. This is often presented by sellers as a “step forward” - in the sense that the development of new technologies has ensured the production of steel, which is not inferior in its performance to the same AISI 321, but is almost one and a half times cheaper than it.

Specialists in the field of metallurgy recommend not to succumb to such tricks - replacing expensive nickel with nitrogen, manganese and copper additives leads to instability of the crystal structure of the material, a high risk of cracking, and very low corrosion resistance. So this “step forward” is just a product designed for mass production, and which can only be attributed to high-quality stainless steels with a high degree of conventionality.

A few words about the thickness of the pipe walls.

• You can follow the following rules:

- with a diameter of the inner pipe in the range from 130 to 450 mm - the thickness of its walls is 0.5 mm;

- with a diameter of 500 mm - 0.6 mm.

- with a diameter above 500 mm - 0.8 mm.

• For furnaces, gas turbine plants, that is, where the temperature of the combustion products reaches values ​​\u200b\u200bof more than 450 ºС, the wall thickness of the inner pipe should be 0.8 mm, using heat-resistant or heat-resistant grades of AISI 321 steel, and for high-power boilers it is better AISI 310S.
• Immediately after the solid fuel heater, an uninsulated section of the chimney is installed. The optimal solution for it is a mono-pipe made of heat-resistant stainless steel (AISI 321 or AISI 316L) with a wall thickness of 0.8÷1.0 mm.
• For outer casings of sandwich pipes, the requirements for steel grades are not too strict, but the wall thickness must be:

- with a diameter of up to 450 mm - 0.5 mm;

- with a diameter of 500 mm or more - 0.6 mm.

What diameter should the flue duct be?

If you look at the assortment of accessories for sandwich chimneys included in the sale, you can immediately see that they are offered in a fairly wide range of inner pipe diameters - from 110 to 300 mm. How to make a choice?

The diameter of the “mono” section (it will be discussed below) and the entire inner pipe of the sandwich chimney must be such that all fuel combustion products are guaranteed to be removed, normal draft is provided and, at the same time, the heat does not fly away literally “in pipe”, that is, a certain optimal gas flow rate was created and maintained. For heating appliances, it is customary to consider this speed equal to two meters per second.

The easiest way is to decide on furnaces, factory-made boilers - they always have an outlet pipe of a certain diameter calculated by specialists specifically for this model. This parameter, in addition, must be prescribed in the passport of the heating or water heater.

The rule is simple - the diameter of the inner pipe of the sandwich chimney, under no circumstances and in any of the sections, should not be less than the standard factory pipe. There are no restrictions on increasing the diameter, but it hardly makes any sense.

It is more difficult when, for example, a sandwich chimney is mounted on a brick oven. In this case, you can do the following.

• If the thermal power of the furnace is known, then the cross section of the chimney, and hence the diameter of the inner channel of the sandwich pipe, will be easy to determine using the table.

Estimated maximum thermal power of a solid fuel furnace:	kW	up to 3.5	3.6 ÷ 5.2	5.3÷7.0
	kcal/hour	up to 3000	3000 ÷ 4500	4500 ÷ 6000
Minimum section of a rectangular chimney		140×140 mm	140×200 mm	140×270 mm
Cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney channel		19600 mm²	28000 mm²	37800 mm²
The minimum diameter of the inner channel of the sandwich pipe		158 mm	189 mm	220 mm

• If the furnace has already been operated, and the owners know the mode of its furnace developed by practice, then you can focus on these data.

For such a calculation, there is a formula:

d = √(2 × Mt × Vsp × (1 + Tout / 273) / (3600 × π))

In the formula, the alphabetic characters are:

d- diameter of the inner channel of the sandwich chimney, in millimeters.

Mt- average consumption of solid fuel per hour, in kilograms. It can be determined by dividing the mass of the fuel bookmark by the time of its complete burnout.

Vsp- the specific volume of combustion products formed, cubic meters per kilogram - a tabular value determined for the main types of fuel.

Your- temperature of the gas flow at the outlet of the chimney, degrees. you can take a tabular value (see below).

π — known mathematical constant, ≈ 3.14

Table of required values ​​for various types of solid fuels.

Type of solid fuel	Average specific calorific value of fuel, kcal/kg	Average specific volume of combustion products from combustion of 1 kg of fuel, m³/kg	Optimum temperature at the outlet of the chimney, °С
Firewood with an average moisture level of not more than 25%	3300	10	150
Pellets, wood fuel briquettes	5100	9	150
Peat lumpy or loose, air dried, humidity not higher than 30%	3000	10	130
Peat in briquettes	4000	11	130
Brown coal	4700	12	120
Coal	6500	17	110
Anthracite	7000	17	110

Not everyone likes to do independent calculations, so below is a calculator that already contains all the necessary ratios and tabular data. The calculation process will be reduced only to entering a few values.

Heating devices are a necessary attribute of any residential building, providing a comfortable temperature for life during the cold period, which lasts 9 months in most regions of Russia. However, additional comfort comes with a certain degree of fire risk. Therefore, special attention is paid to the chimney, through which smoke and combustion products are removed from the heat generators and removed to the outside of the room. This article will tell you how to bring the chimney through the roof in compliance with all safety requirements.

As a rule, the work of a stove-maker or an installer of gas equipment does not include chimney installation services; the homeowner must ensure the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof on his own. The imaginary simplicity of the task makes home craftsmen refuse the services of professional roofers. However, poor-quality output of the pipe to the roof threatens with serious consequences:

1. Through the leaky passage of the pipe, moisture seeps into the masonry, gradually destroying it.
2. High humidity inside stimulates the spread of molds and fungus. Spores of some types of fungus are dangerous for the human condition, so it is not safe to use an infected tube. In advanced cases, both the chimney and the stove masonry are subject to replacement.
3. The penetration of water into the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof reduces the thermal insulation properties of the insulation by half. Moreover, after the thermal insulation layer has dried, its characteristics will never return to the previous level.
4. Even the truss system suffers from poor-quality removal of the pipe through the roof, since moisture penetrating into it through a leaky passage leads to decay and destruction.
5. Slots near the pipe passage disrupt the normal air circulation inside the attic, leading to increased energy losses and heating costs.

By the way, not only stove chimneys are brought to the roof, but pipes from gas boilers and ventilation outlets are also placed there, for the installation of which they use the same methods.

The choice of the location of the chimney outlet and its height

The first condition for a high-quality outlet of the pipe through the roof is the correct placement of the chimney on the roof. The functioning of the entire heating system depends on this factor, therefore, in order to avoid errors, installation is carried out in accordance with construction and fire safety requirements:

• Chimney pipes are placed in the immediate vicinity of the highest point of the roof, at a distance of 1-1.5 m.
• The recommended height of the chimney relative to the roof ridge to ensure normal stove draft is 0.5-1.5 m.
• The greater the height of the chimney, the greater the traction force in the furnace or gas boiler it provides.
• The lower the chimney is located on the slope, the longer it must be in order for the recommended height of the chimney above the roof to meet the recommendations.
• Parameters such as the height of the chimney, the diameter of the section are selected according to the recommendations of the manufacturer of the thermogenerating device or on the basis of a calculation.
• The chimney consists mainly of vertical sections of pipes, the length of horizontal segments should not exceed 1 m.
• The outlet is placed between the elements of the truss system so as not to violate its integrity.

The main difficulty in passing the pipe through the roof is that during the passage of smoke, the temperature of the walls rises, which poses a risk of ignition of combustible materials of the truss system.

Elastic penetration

Most often, in private construction, they are faced with the installation of metal pipes of circular cross section. To ensure the tightness of the passage, use a special device - an elastic penetration. This product is made of high-strength silicone or rubber, having the shape of a funnel with a wide flange in the form of a square or circle, called an apron. Elastic penetration, due to its properties, takes any shape, adjusting to the angle of inclination of the slope. It withstands extreme high or low temperatures, exposure to harsh chemicals and has a wide palette.

When purchasing an elastic penetration, they are guided by the diameter of the pipe and the color of the roofing material. Universal models, in the form of a stepped pyramid, are suitable for any size, adjustment is carried out by trimming the penetration to the desired level. Installing an elastic apron on the roof is very simple, you need to put it on the chimney passage, put a metal circle with holes for fasteners, process the joint with a fire-resistant sealant and fix it with a screwdriver. For roofs with steep slopes, a special type of plastic penetrations is used with a given flange mounting angle.

Metal spigot

In hardware stores, you can find another type of penetration for round pipes - a metal pipe through. It is used to pass the chimney through a roof that does not have a relief. The prefabricated alloy steel spigots have a standard roof angle, which is matched to the roof slope. To complete the installation, you must:

Cut a suitable hole in the roof. To do this, using a marker, markings are applied to the surface of the roof. Depending on the roofing material, cutting is performed with a grinder or sharp scissors, stepping back 1-2 cm inside the circle.

• Remove the waterproofing and thermal insulation material from the hole made, freeing the passage for the chimney. If necessary, remove the elements of the crate by carefully sawing them off.
• On the underside of the roof, fix a sheet of fire-resistant material with a hole of the required diameter of such an area that there is a margin of 15-20 cm on each side of the chimney.
• Push the pipe module into the hole, dock it with the laid chimney, tightening the junction with a clamp.
• Put the outlet pipe on the pipe, fixing it on the slope surface with fire-resistant sealant and self-tapping screws with a rubber cap.
• Attach the pipe with new segments so that the height of the chimney reaches 0.5-1.5 m above the level of the ridge.

Some craftsmen prefer to use a different method - they pre-solder the chimney into the passage pipe, cover it with thermally insulating material, for example, stone wool, and only then this design is mounted in the passage.

Conclusion of rectangular and square pipes

Made of brick, most often square or rectangular, so other methods are used to bring it to the roof. This task is for an experienced kiln master, and not a home craftsman, because a special masonry technique is used in the process. When the chimney approaches the roof, a hole of the appropriate size is cut out in it with an allowance of 2-5 cm, through which the stove-maker leads out. Although heat-resistant brick perfectly retains heat inside the pipe, asbestos sheets are chipped from the inside of the passage to protect the rafters from fire.

A soft waterproofing tape on a lead or aluminum base is attached to a brick pipe using a metal profile, the lower edge of which is fixed to the roof with a sealant. After that, the unsightly waterproofing is closed with a special decorative apron. It consists of four additional parts and is installed under the roofing material, making the passage neat and well protected.

Output box installation

The roofing device consists of layers of several materials, the refractory qualities of which are expressed in different ways. While most roofing materials are non-flammable and non-combustible, truss systems traditionally made from timber do not. In order to safely lead the chimney through any material, a passage box is mounted:

• First of all, a box is purchased or made from a refractory material, for example, metal or asbestos. The size of the box is selected in accordance with the cross section of the pipe, so that there is at least 15 cm between their walls.
• After making the hole, a box is installed in it, the upper edge is aligned with the level of the roof slope.
• The chimney is led out through the hole in the duct. The edges of the waterproofing film and vapor barrier are glued to the pipe using a fire-resistant sealant and reinforced tape.
• Expanded clay is poured inside the box or stone wool is laid to insulate the chimney. Thermal insulating materials are placed taking into account the fact that they should not impede air circulation.
• Outside, the chimney pipe, depending on the shape and roofing material, is finished with an elastic penetration, a decorative apron or a metal pipe.

A well-made chimney outlet does not spoil the appearance of the roof, does not allow moisture to pass through and is safe from the point of view of fire safety standards. Follow the correct technology for passing tubes through ceilings to protect yourself and your property.

Video instruction

Crossing the roof with a pipe is one of the extremely vulnerable components of the structure. At the intersection of the roof with a chimney, a hole is required, which, if the rules of arrangement are violated, is capable of passing water. Improper sealing of the space around the pipe can cause a fire, and incorrect fixation risks becoming the cause of destruction. In order for the listed formidable circumstances to bypass lovers of Russian steam, you should know how to correctly install the pipe into the bathhouse through the roof. Compliance with the rules for the device of this very important penetration will save you from a lot of serious troubles and troubles.

Principles of arranging roof passages

The space between the chimney and the wall of the box turned towards it is also filled with basalt wool, and an air gap is left outside between this wall and the insulation to improve insulation. From below, from the side of the bath rooms, the penetration is closed with a box-shaped casing made of galvanized or stainless steel. For the final design, from the side of the attic, a steel sheet is first mounted, then a casing.

The arrangement of the passage through the slope from the side of the bath is carried out using a metal under-roof sheet with an oval hole. It is attached with self-tapping screws to the elements of the truss system. Before installing the sheets, basalt cardboard and cotton wool are laid in the cut-out opening. The free space is filled with non-combustible thermal insulation. A lead roof trim is installed on top. It is adjusted to the surface of the roof by tapping with a mallet.

Video on the arrangement of roof penetrations

Standard execution of pipe cutting:

Passage device through ondulin:

Homemade assembly for the passage of a pipe through corrugated board:

Information about the rules for arranging chimneys will be useful to both independent craftsmen and customers of the services of a team of builders. Compliance with technological requirements will save you from many negative consequences. Properly executed passage nodes will provide excellent insulation and extend the life of the bath chimneys and the bath itself.

The junction of the roof to the chimney pipe is a rather complicated element of the roof from a technical point of view, the correct implementation of which largely determines not only the life of the truss system, but also the comfort of living in the building. If you do not have any personal experience in roofing and tin work, then it is better to use the services of professionals - mistakes cause big problems, and it takes a lot of time and money to fix them. In the most severe cases, you will have to do unscheduled repairs to the premises and the truss system.

There are a great many options for solving the problem of joining the roof, each professional master makes changes taking into account specific features and his skills. But there are several factors that have a critical impact on the technology of work.

The passage of the chimney through the roof - the main nuances of the arrangement

Type of roofing

To cover the roofs, soft roofing materials, profiled sheets, piece natural or artificial tiles, asbestos concrete sheets are used. Each coating has its own nuances in the manufacture of adjunctions; for them, both standard components produced by coating manufacturers, and self-made from galvanized steel sheets or rolled soft materials can be used.

roofing material	Minimum slope angle, degrees
Decking	20
Ruberoid	3-4
metal tile	25
Asbestos-cement slate	20-35
Ceramic, concrete tiles	25
Euroslate (ondulin)	6
Bituminous soft tile	11

Roofing materials - types and photos

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Type of truss system

Depending on the architectural parameters, the roof can be flat, sloping, domed, etc. Depending on the type, the slope of the rafters, the type of base and battens for roofing materials, and the location of the supporting structural elements change. All these features must be taken into account when choosing materials and technology for adjoining the roof to the chimney pipe.

Chimney parameters

Chimneys are made of brick, concrete blocks, metal or asbestos-cement pipes. Structural differences affect not only the production technology of adjoining works, but also the choice of materials. Additionally, during the manufacture of the junction, the location of the chimney must also be taken into account.. If it is close to the ridge, then you need to use one technology, if it is closer to the drainpipes, then you should work with this factor in mind. This applies not only to the method of water drainage, but also to materials for sealing.

There is one more feature. Brick chimneys can have flat side planes or with special steps for draining water. Depending on the method of laying the chimney, a specific algorithm for the manufacture of the roof junction is selected. Some types of brick chimneys do not require chasing.

Connection installation time

Waterproofing of the junction can be carried out during the installation of the roof or after. There are ways to seal the chimney without the need to dismantle the installed coatings, all elements are laid on top of the existing roof.

For example, consider three options for making junctions on various types of roofing materials: brick chimneys on soft tiles and metal tiles, and round ones on the finished coating. It is these options that are most often found during the construction of private houses. The algorithm for the production of works allows you to perform them yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists. But only on one condition - you have the experience of roofing, the necessary materials and tools.

Important! All work on the roofs should be carried out only in good weather, the temperature cannot be below +5°C.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting a chimney to soft roofs

To create an abutment, you will need pliers, a medium-sized flat spatula, a mounting knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, metal cutting scissors, a building hair dryer, measuring tools and fixtures. As a waterproofing agent, a mastic based on modified bitumen is used; for a sealant, you can use a special mastic in a tube or any other material based on environmentally resistant polymers. If you have an air gun - great, it will be easier to work. If for some reason you do not have a special device, then nails can also be hammered in manually.

Practical advice! There is no need to buy expensive tools to perform one or more connections. They are used only by professional builders on an ongoing basis.

The installation technology of flexible tiles involves the installation of a fillet near the chimney, a plinth or a 50 × 50 mm timber loosened diagonally. The elements are fixed to the crate, tightly pressed against the planes of the chimney and screwed in this position. A hydroprotection (lining carpet) is installed on top of the elements, individual pieces are glued with bitumen. Chimneys made of piece masonry materials must be plastered, allowed to dry and primed with any bitumen-based material. It is advisable to do the installation of the junction at the same time as the installation of a soft roof - this not only simplifies the work, but also guarantees tightness.

Underlayment prices

Lining carpet

Step 1. Install the tile shingles in the usual way to the junction with the fillets. If one edge comes to the surface of the element, then it must be cut off with a mounting knife. Make a vertical cut along the corner of the chimney, and a horizontal cut along the bottom line of the fillet. To ensure that the lining carpet is not damaged when cutting soft tiles, always place a piece of plywood under the knife blade. Guide the tip of the knife exactly along the fold line of the roof. Cutting soft tiles is quite difficult, use strong and sharp knives.

Step 2 Additionally, seal all corners of the chimney with patches. How it's done?

It is recommended to seal the chimney passage assembly using patterns from the remaining pieces of the valley carpet. According to its performance indicators, it better meets modern requirements. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use patterns from the lining carpet.

Step 3 Attach a piece of carpet to the bottom of the chimney, make marks on it according to the width of the pipe. The length of the pattern must correspond to the sum of the sealing height on the chimney and the length of the material under the soft tiles. Practitioners recommend taking it with a margin, a long length will not be a problem for further work, and a pattern that is too short can cause leaks. Put it in place, bend it and with your finger find the connection points of the fillet with the slope and the chimney. At these points you need to cut the pattern.

The height of the institution beyond the vertical should take into account the climatic conditions of the location of the house and the maximum height of the snow cover, but be at least 30 cm, the institution beyond the horizon - at least 20 cm. The length of the fillet must be added to these dimensions. The width of the pattern depends on the parameters of the pipe, the length of the side parts of the envelope is at least 20 cm.

Practical advice! If it is difficult for you to immediately make a pattern on the material of the valley, then prepare a template on thick paper. This will provide an opportunity to gain practical experience and avoid annoying mistakes in the future. You will find out in which places you need to make bends, and which ones to cut off completely, you will see the optimal width of the hem, etc.

A more accurate pattern can be made on a flat area, transferring the location of the points of the cutting lines and kinks using a square and an ordinary nail.

Step 4 Gently coat the reverse side of each pattern with special mastic, do not leave gaps. The layer thickness is approximately 0.5–1.0 mm. Modern mastic will securely stick the pattern to the chimney pipe, allow you to withstand wind loads, and prevent water from getting under the protection.

Prices for mastic for tiles

Mastic for tiles

Patterns must be glued taking into account the direction of the water stack. The front is installed first, its lower part should cover the top of the shingles of the tile. All the water from the chimney will subsequently drain onto this element. Next, the side patterns are fixed, in the future they will be covered with a finish coating. The last to be pasted over the rear plane of the chimney.

Important! To improve the quality and reliability of gluing, professional roofers recommend using a building hair dryer. All joints are carefully bent, heated and re-glued, due to this operation, the adhesion between the surfaces is significantly increased, the mastic hermetically covers the stone chips located on the material.

Step 5 Insert the upper metal bar into the chimney gate to fix the position of the pattern. The slats are sold complete with the roof, if you do not have them, then the elements can be made independently from any galvanized and color-coated metal profile coating. The planks are fixed with dowels, they not only increase the tightness, but also exclude the possibility of the patterns breaking off from the surface of the chimney.

Step 6 Carefully seal the junction of the plank with a one-component polyurethane sealant. Try to fill the cracks to the full depth, remove the excess with your finger.

After gluing all parts to the chimney, you can continue laying shingles. The shingles are evenly cut at a distance of 5–8 cm without reaching the lower edge of the fillet. The side cut of the tile must be smeared with mastic, the same operation must be done in all places where there is no self-adhesive layer. The edge of the cut shingles serves as a groove that directs rainwater in the right direction. The tiles are laid last on the back of the chimney, then work continues on the entire roof.

Chimney pipe bypass on a metal profile roof

Initial data: a chimney made of unplastered silicate bricks, galvanized steel is used for the work.

Practical advice! For abutment, it is better to buy a standard sheet profile for a gate with dimensions of 15 × 23 cm, the width of the shelf for the gate is 2 cm, the bend width of the drainage grooves is 1.6 cm. The profile is galvanized, zinc thickness is at least 20 microns.

Step 1. Attach the profile to the pipe with the side on which there is a curved shelf for entering the strobe. With a construction marker, draw lines around the entire perimeter of the chimney.

Step 2 With a grinder with a diamond disc, cut a strobe with a depth of at least 2 cm. Work carefully, try to make the cuts as even as possible.

Important! When working with a circular grinder, follow the safety regulations. Never remove the protective cover, wear goggles. Remember that the disk must rotate towards the worker, and not vice versa. If the direction of rotation is not respected, the tool will be thrown at the worker during biting, which can cause very serious injuries.

Step 3 Install the galvanized sheet first from the bottom junction of the chimney and the base of the metal tile deck to the eaves. It will drain all the water around the perimeter of the pipe. At the bottom of the chimney, you can also chimney, if this is difficult to do, then put it right next to the brickwork.

The first element is a galvanized sheet

Step 4 Install a bottom abutment over this sheet. This sequence must be observed with any method of draining water from the chimney. During the installation of sheets around the perimeter, one sheet is folded under the other, which prevents moisture from entering the junction points. How to take sheet dimensions and prepare a pattern?

This completes the cutting process.

Step 5 Put the cut part in place, bend its side tongues so that they are pressed as tightly as possible against the surface of the pipe. To do this, you need to unbend the profile shelves on the bent tongues, which are inserted into the strobe. Make sure that the metal fits as tightly as possible to the surface of the chimney, do not allow gaps to appear. The reason for their occurrence is incorrect measurements. If the gap does not exceed 2-3 mm, then there is nothing to worry about, just take into account errors in the future. If the gap is large, then you will have to repeat the measurements and cutting the profile.

Step 6 Proceed to the formation of the lateral junction. Align it with the bottom, make a similar markup for bending and cutting the sheet. Delete extra sections.

Step 7 Attach the finished part to the pipe and fix with dowels. The dowels must have rubber gaskets for sealing.

Step 8 Gently bend the protruding elements to the bottom of the outlet, with a wooden or metal hammer, press them together as hard as possible.

Practical advice! Experienced roofers smear the joint line with sealant before bending. This operation does not take much time, and the reliability of sealing increases significantly. We recommend that all beginners use this technology, they still do not have enough practical skills in working with metal sheets. As a result, the joints are uneven, water can flow into the cracks.

In the same way, install the connection on the opposite side of the chimney.

Step 9 Proceed with the installation of the closing upper connection element. It is done in the same way as the first one. The only difference is that the bending angle of the profile must be reduced, and in the side bends at the angle of the roof, cut off not the lower part, but the upper one.

This completes the fixation of the metal elements of the junction, proceed to filling the grooves with sealant. Make sure that the folds along the edges of the metal sheets fulfill their function and direct the water flows down.

Connecting a round chimney to a finished roof

We have already mentioned that this is not the best construction option, but life often dictates its own rules, you have to solve problems as they come. Initial data: pitched roof with shingles, round chimney.

Step 1. Locate the exact location on the roof where the chimney pipe exits. To do this, you need to attach a plumb line to the flooring of the coating, combine it with the center of the stove pipe and make a mark. Drill a through hole according to the mark, it is much easier to work from the roof.

Step 2 Using a spatula, carefully pry the shingles and unscrew the screws. If the soft roof is fixed with carnations, then the work will become somewhat more complicated. Dismantle the roof using the same method, the dimensions of the freed area of ​​the roof should be 30–40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. Fold soft tiles carefully in a free place, all of them are reusable.

Step 3 Proceed with the installation of a passage element at the outlet of the chimney; it must be fireproof and airtight. Elements are sold in specialized stores, it is much more profitable and more reliable to use factory products than to invent various devices on your own. The kit includes a passage element made of high-strength polypropylene, heat-resistant rubber and a metal clamp.

Step 4 Cut a hole in the heat-resistant rubber for the diameter of the chimney. To facilitate work on the upper surface of the element, rings with the indicated diameters are cast. Pierce a small hole with a knife, and then you can cut it off with scissors.

Step 5 On the penetration there are special lines indicating the different slope of the roof. Find a mark with your slope and cut a hole. The plastic is very hard, use metal shears to cut it. Due to its placement, the chimney will be in a vertical position.

Step 6 On the base of the roof, find a hole that points to the center of the chimney, lay the penetration on a solid crate and install it in such a way that the centers are located on the same vertical line. Mark the diameter of the cut hole for the pipe, use an electric jigsaw to cut out the plate.

Step 7 Attach the passage element in place and fix it with self-tapping screws to a continuous crate.

Step 8 Install the chimney, put a rubber sealing casing on it. Pay attention to the location of the technological mark, it should be facing forward. Put on a metal collar and tighten it. It is not necessary to apply great efforts, the rubber compresses easily, and too large loads can cut it. Assemble the chimney, install all special elements on it.

Step 9 At the bottom of the penetration around the perimeter there are special slots for installing sealant. Put pieces of the lining layer of the flexible roof into them.

Step 10 Put the shingles in place, cut off the excess. For a guarantee, coat the joints with a quality compound.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

This completes the installation work. To check the reliability of sealing, it is recommended to pour several buckets of water onto the roof. If leaks are found, they should be repaired immediately. It is much more profitable to do this in a timely manner than to engage in unscheduled repairs of the truss system or roof later.

Video - Adjacency of flexible tiles

Video - Chimney. adjoining

Video - Bypassing the chimney pipe on a metal roof

Content

Heating units operating on solid, gas or liquid fuels are equipped with a smoke channel for the removal of combustion products. Increased requirements are imposed on the functionality and safety of chimneys, because due to the use of low-quality materials for their installation or violation of technology and norms of SNiP, the structure itself may collapse, a fire may occur. Particular care should be taken to equip the passage through the roof for the chimney to ensure waterproofing and fire safety of the unit. Consider how to correctly carry out the penetration of the smoke channel through the roofing system.

Smoke channel passage

The consequences of poor installation

The passage unit must be reliably protected from moisture penetration, therefore, compliance with the installation work technology, the use of reliable and durable materials is of great importance. Poor waterproofing of pipes leading through the roof:

• It leads to the destruction of the brickwork of the chimney due to the weakening of the solution, as a result of which flue gases can penetrate into the attic. It also increases the risk of fire.
• It provokes the penetration of moisture into the chimney channel made of brick and the occurrence of fungus in the warm season.
• Contributes to waterlogging and damage to the waterproofing carpet and vapor barrier membrane.
• Increases the heat loss of the building (correspondingly, fuel costs increase).
• It disrupts the air circulation in the room under the roof, this leads to an increase in the level of humidity and provokes decay of wooden structures. In difficult cases, this leads to the need for a major overhaul of the truss system of the house.
• Causes the formation of frost, provoking the expansion of cracks and the destruction of the roofing next to the chimney.

Placement and height of the chimney

In order to ensure optimum traction for rational combustion of fuel, the total length of the smoke channel should be between 5 and 10 meters. Also important is the height of the upper edge of the chimney relative to the ridge of the roof or wall of a higher building located in the immediate vicinity.

Rules for the location of pipes on the roof

When designing the passage of the chimney pipe through the roof, one should be guided by the current rules and regulations, fire safety requirements. Take into account the following:

• The recommended place for arranging the chimney is at a distance of no more than one and a half meters from the highest point of the roof (ridge). In this case, the upper cut of the pipe should be located at least 50 cm above the ridge.
• If the pipe is 1.5–3 meters away from the ridge, its upper part can be located at the level of the ridge. When removing the chimney more than three meters, its height above the roof is calculated depending on the height of the ridge. The top cut of the ridge should fall on an imaginary line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10° relative to a horizontal straight line passing through the same point.
• The place where the chimney passes through the roof should be located between the rafters at a distance of at least 25-30 cm from the wooden elements of the roofing system. If part of the rafter is removed, a special structure is mounted so that the roof frame can withstand operational loads.
• A gap of 13-25 cm should be left between the chimney pipe and the edges of the roofing that is not resistant to fire (soft roof, roofing felt), if the roof is made of sheet metal, natural or cement-sand tiles, slate, this distance can be reduced to a minimum.

Pipe in the valley area

It is not recommended to install a chimney in a place where a complex roof valley is located. Precipitation flows down it, which flows down here from two slopes, in addition, snow masses will accumulate at the chimney and melt. The increased load inevitably leads to depressurization of the joints of the penetration and the roof, they will have to be regularly checked and repaired.

fire safety

The wooden truss system and some layers of the roofing cake (waterproofing, vapor barrier) do not withstand heat and can ignite or melt. The safety of system elements that are not fire resistant is ensured by installing a special box around the perimeter of the opening in the roof.

Security Violation

The box is mounted from a wooden block, it should be flush with the crate, on the outside of the roof. Along the perimeter of the box, from the outside, the edges of the vapor barrier are fixed - a carpet made of roofing material or other waterproofing material, as well as the edges of the vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room, if we are talking about an insulated roof. In both cases, a cruciform incision is made in the cloth and triangular fragments of the material are tucked inward. For fastening, wide-head nails or staples are used, and sealant or adhesive tape makes it possible to achieve tightness of the adjoining materials around the perimeter of the wooden box.

The passage through the roof of the chimney provides for thermal insulation of the chimney with basalt wool or other non-combustible materials. If possible, an air gap of 5–7 cm wide is left between the insulation layer and the chimney itself.

Box insulation with basalt wool

If the installation of the chimney involves the use of a special element - penetration, when choosing it, first of all, make sure that the element is made of a material that is resistant to temperature changes.

Please note: Do not use materials that are not designed for heating to high temperatures, such as pipes and roof penetrations for ventilation ducts.

Rectangular or square tube

The brick chimney of a classic stove usually has a rectangular or square section, as this is the easiest shape to mount. The outer casing of the ceramic stove chimney looks similar.

In the standard version, the chimney duct is located strictly vertically, but on the attic floor, a horizontal section of a small length can be arranged to adjust the chimney outlet to the roof.

A hole is cut out in the roofing pie and a wooden structure, which was mentioned above, is mounted. After the laying of the pipeline passing through the roof is completed, it is necessary to ensure reliable protection of the passage unit from atmospheric precipitation. From the inside, from the side of the attic, a steel sheet is attached to design the penetration site (the hole in it is cut to fit the pipe, the sheet is put on the chimney in advance). The protective and decorative plate is attached to the edges of the support box with self-tapping screws, the joint along the perimeter of the pipe is filled with a fire-resistant sealant. The inside of the box is lined with asbestos sheets or the gap between it and the pipe is filled with basalt wool.

Rectangular pipe

From the outside, the edges of the waterproofing are brought onto the brick pipe, in which a cross-shaped incision was previously made. Each of the resulting triangles is cut in such a way that the overlap on the chimney wall is 10–12 cm. The waterproofing is glued to the brick using a special material - an elastic metallized tape with an adhesive layer.

Then the inner apron is mounted. The structure consists of four bars made of galvanized steel. The upper curved edge of each plank is inserted into a brick-made groove, and not into a masonry joint. At the corners, the planks are joined with a 15 mm overlap. All connections are treated with a heat-resistant sealant. On the side rails, bumpers should be provided that will direct the flow of water down. A metal sheet with sides is wound under the lower bar - a tie, which provides water drainage to the lower edge of the roof or to the nearest valley.

To decorate the removed chimney through the roof, an external apron made of galvanized sheet metal is installed. The material can be painted in the color of the roof. The method of fastening is the same as that of the internal structure, but you can do without a streak by treating the joint with a heat-resistant sealant for outdoor use. The edges of the apron, laid on top of the roofing, are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws.

Round pipes

Unlike brick smoke channels, it is necessary to organize the exit of a round pipe through the ceiling and roof using special cutting, devices that seal the hole.

Round pipe

The following types of pipes for a stove, fireplace or boiler have a round section:

• asbestos (go out of use due to low resistance to overheating and non-environmental material);
• steel coaxial (through the inner pipe, the removal of flue gases is ensured, along the outer ring - the flow of air into the closed-type furnace);
• sandwich pipes (a heat insulator is laid between the inner pipe and the outer casing);
• single wall metal pipes.

Note! If a steel pipe with one wall is connected to the heating unit, which gives off the maximum heat of the flue gases to the air in the rooms or the water jacket for radiator heating, in places where it passes through the ceiling and roof, as well as above the roof, it is recommended to use a sandwich or make thermal insulation and pipe casing yourself .

A round pipe should be led out through the roof as follows: after arranging the box in compliance with fire safety distances, a metal sheet is fixed from the attic side, in which a hole for the pipe is pre-cut. Or a finished element is mounted - a metal sheet with a pipe of the required diameter.

The device for exiting a round chimney through the roof also requires the use of a roof penetration for reliable waterproofing of the unit from the outside. Manufacturers offer various solutions. When choosing, one should take into account the angle of inclination of the pitched roof, the relief of the roofing.

Elastic penetrations

To lead the chimney through the roof of a pitched roof, it is convenient to use an elastic penetration, which consists of a flat square or round flange and a tapered stepped cuff. The flange is made of flexible material with lead or aluminium. The plasticity of the metal allows you to tightly fit the base of the penetration even to a coating that has a complex relief - metal tiles or corrugated board.

Elastic penetration

The metal part of the penetration is made as a single unit with an elastic coupling, which ensures the tightness of the structure. The coupling is made of silicone or weatherproof EPDM rubber. The marked steps of the cone-shaped coupling allow you to cut off the upper part at the right level so that the elastic element tightly wraps around the chimney of a certain diameter.

When planning the installation of an elastic penetration, it is necessary to decide on the choice of option. It could be a transition:

• for flat roofs and roofs with an angle of inclination up to 25°;
• for pitched roofs with an angle of inclination over 25°;
• universal, for roofs of any kind.

In the first two cases, the mobility of the elastic cuff relative to the flange is limited. In the first version, the base is located at a right angle relative to the coupling, in the second, at an inclination of about 20°.

Elastic penetrations can be installed on roofs covered with any material. Products are characterized:

• weather resistance;
• resistance to ultraviolet and aggressive environments;
• flexibility (it is not required to select an element in exact accordance with the angle of inclination of the slope);
• tight fit to the roof, which ensures reliable sealing of the assembly;
• aesthetic appearance and a wide range of colors.

You can carry out the installation of elastic penetration yourself. After the main stage of work is completed - the pipe is brought out through the roof, the gap between the chimney and the duct is filled with a non-combustible heat insulator, it is necessary to cut off the upper part of the penetration cone at a mark corresponding to the diameter of the chimney.

Self-installation of penetration

The elastic element is pulled tightly over the pipe, its upper edge is turned away, treated with a weather-resistant sealant and wrapped back. You can also additionally use a clamp that seals the joint.

The flange is deformed with a wooden hammer in such a way that the metal part of the web lies against the coating, regardless of its relief. Additionally, the base of the penetration is coated with sealant. The flange must be fastened to the roof with self-tapping screws or rivets.

Rigid penetrations

The removal of the chimney through the roof can be carried out using a ready-made penetration made of galvanized sheet steel. Its feature is that the branch pipe is rigidly fixed relative to the base at a certain angle. Therefore, the correct choice of the element is important - it must correspond to the angle of inclination of the ramp.

Models of metal penetrations differ in design and installation principle:

1. A one-piece element with a branch pipe into which the upper part of the chimney pipe is soldered from below, and then the chimney head is put on top.
2. Detachable penetration - the upper part is put on the pipe, the edge of the pipe is treated with sealant and fixed on the chimney with a clamp.

Rigid driving

In both cases, the flange is attached to the roofing with a sealant and self-tapping screws. Since the flange is rigid, metal penetrations allow the pipe to be led out only on roofs with an even coating - with soft bitumen or seam metal roofing.

Having correctly selected the elements for sealing the passage unit and observing the technology of work, you can independently conduct a chimney through the roof.