How to choose the right chimney and install it yourself. How to bring the pipe from the stove through the wall Passing the chimney through a brick wall

Engineering systems 20.06.2020

Engineering systems

Often a chimney through the wall has to be installed in cases where the building has already been built and an external channel is required. To do this, you need to correctly calculate all the nuances, take into account the level of inclination, the peculiarity of the design itself and the material, and, of course, provide for the possibility of installing various types of boilers. In addition, an important aspect of the correct functioning of the chimney through the wall is the correct and consistent operating procedure, which is contained in the relevant documentation.

Functionality and design features

So, how to bring the chimney through the wall, what features you need to know and what to pay attention to first of all? Consider not only the passage through the wall, but also the exit of the chimney up. That is, the optimal height for any type of chimney design should correspond to 5 - 10 meters. The use of a smaller channel in a 100% guarantee gives poor draft, and, accordingly, problems with smoke emission. By the way, it is also not recommended to overestimate the height of the channel, above 10 meters will already be accompanied by excessive combustion and high fuel consumption.

Given that over time, you will definitely need to clean the channel from soot, it is often chosen round pipes made of expanded clay or metal. Yes, and the installation of such structures is much easier, especially if we take into account modern proposals, like a two-channel or two-layer pipe. Representing a ready-made structure that does not require insulation and additional sealing.

This type of construction has proven its practicality and optimality, it does not form condensate and negative deposits. In addition, the outer walls do not heat up to extreme temperatures, so a fairly serious fire situation is maintained.

Advantages and disadvantages

When removing the chimney through the wall, we can note the appearance of some positive aspects in this design:

Saving interior space.
The possibility of equipping the channel even after the completion of the construction of the house.
Installation, installation of such structures is much easier than similar structures inside.
High fire safety. After all, the internal walls can reach temperatures of more than 1000 degrees, indoors this is a huge minus, unlike the street, where you can ignore such temperatures.
Over time, even the most hermetic and high-quality chimneys begin to pass carbon monoxide through the cracks and cracks formed in the walls.
In the event of any problems with draft, it is possible to adjust the chimney pipe without damaging and violating integrity in the passageways.

Disadvantages regarding, including the installation of a sandwich chimney:

Mandatory insulation (with the exception of the "sandwich").
The external channel, in some cases, requires the allocation of the necessary "piece" of land.
From external systems, heat escapes into the atmosphere, when an additional source of heating could be arranged inside the house.
It is difficult to match the design to the design of the building.
With high channel sizes, the fastening system can become a problem, from a large windage.

Basic installation steps

When working on installing your chimney through the wall, you need to remember important rules and installation steps. You should follow the sequence so as not to forget anything and do everything right. So, install the chimney, the steps are:

Check if there are any communications in the places of passage through the wall.
Make a marking, and prepare a hole of the desired diameter.
Install a “pipe”, which you carefully seal and heat insulate from the wall with a special fire-resistant material. A special casing can be installed on top.
The pipe is joined to the boiler, stove with the help of three final "knees". The lower part is obligatory, with the help of this outlet it will be possible to carry out cleaning.
The outer section of the second "knee" behind the wall must be fixed, it is important to remember that the horizontal planes should not exceed one meter.
Next is the installation of the vertical part. Pay attention to fastening, use only high-quality fasteners.

After erecting the entire vertical part, you need to know how to install the head, the so-called cone-shaped cover, which will improve traction and protect the channel from clogging. Depending on the type of duct, you will need to insulate and insulate the space between the wall and the pipe.

Features of working with wooden walls

When installing a chimney through a wall in a wooden house, you need to remember the high fire hazard of this material. When passing the chimney through a wooden wall, you need to take extra care of insulation, for example, you can use fire-resistant brick, asbestos. In a frame house, the situation is similar. To understand the whole process clearly, we demonstrate how to properly lead a chimney through a wall in a wooden house with a diagram.

By the way, the arrangement of good insulation allows you to avoid damage to the tree, because the fibers dry out from heating. Starting to think over the removal of the chimney through a wooden wall, consider what kind of design you will use. All specialists recommend the installation of three-layer systems, they are equipped with their own thermal insulation, which practically does not allow heating of the outer parts of the channel.

By the way, the peculiarities of the installation specifically for wooden buildings include the obligatory formation of a perfectly vertical channel, without bends. When making a chimney, do not forget about the installation of dampers, they will help to cope with excessive draft and allow you to regulate the flow.

An important point, now many people use siding as a finish for wooden houses. So, the use of siding implies a retreat from the wall to the chimney at a distance of more than 150 mm. This is due to the fact that the fire material is dangerous and its temperature range is at a minimum value of only 50 degrees.

Chimney installation

The passage of any chimney through the wall is a responsible task, it is important to correctly calculate all the nuances. The output of the chimney through the wall should be done only in the place where there are no communications. In addition, the installation of a reliable branching system is a specific feature of wall mounting. The formation of sharp corners is not allowed, they lead to the formation of turbulence, which will negatively affect the performance of the system.

Installation must be carried out starting from the heat source, that is, from the connection of the pipe and the boiler. Next, we proceed directly to the fastening of the partition, installing the fastening of the chimney on the wall. It is not advised to use do-it-yourself fasteners.

First, draw a passage in the wall, mark the attachment point on the outer wall. Be sure to make the correct pass knot as described above. Pay special attention to houses made of wood. How to bring it outside through a brick wall, see the training videos, but remember that the feature is always the same. It is necessary to carefully insulate the place, as well as carry out high-quality thermal insulation, in order to avoid a fire.

After wiring through the wall, we fasten the pipe to the brackets pre-installed on the wall. After the output to the roof, the pipe is additionally attached with special extensions, provided that the height is much higher than the roof ridge.

When designing a wooden house, it is important to consider how it will be heated. When connected to a central heating system, there are no problems. But if it is decided to design a more economical autonomous way of space heating (boiler, stove), then it is necessary to think about how to remove combustion products from the room. The main problem here is how to lead the chimney through the wall in a private wooden house. To prevent unpleasant consequences, it is necessary to follow the recommendations on fire safety when designing and installing with your own hands.

Methods for making chimneys

The installation of a system with which the exhaust of combustion products is carried out can be carried out from the following materials:

brick;
ceramics;
metal.

Varieties of outdoor chimneys

A chimney in a wooden brick house is a solution that is now practically not used. The use is justified, for example, in the process of restoration, when it is necessary to recreate the original appearance of the house, which is of historical value.

Ceramic products are a more modern solution. It is a construction of a special chimney brick, insulation and an internal ceramic pipe. Their installation allows to ensure the smoothness of the inner walls and reduce the deposition of soot on the inner surface of the pipe.

A metal chimney is a composite pipe consisting of two shells with a heater laid between them. Each type of construction has its own installation and design requirements. Therefore, without a detailed consideration of each individually, it is difficult to understand the technology of the device through the wall.

Ceramic chimneys

In the manufacture of an internal chimney, the following requirements are imposed on it:

Ceramic pipe device

the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams, if laying between the pipe and the ceiling of asbestos sheets in two layers is provided - 250 mm, without asbestos laying - 380 mm.
in the presence of asbestos insulation, the distance from the pipe to the wooden wall is assumed to be 250 mm or more, if no insulation is provided, the distance is assumed to be at least 380 mm.
when using mineral wool for insulation, the distance from the pipe to the rafters is taken at least 130 mm;
when using combustible materials - 260 mm;
for roofing in places of contact with the pipe, materials resistant to high temperatures (steel, ceramic tiles, slate) should be used. If materials such as bituminous shingles are used, it must be prevented from contacting the pipe. The distance from the bituminous coating to the chimney in the plan should be at least 50 cm.

All the requirements described above are relevant for the manufacture of an internal chimney, but sometimes it is better to choose an external outlet. It avoids difficulties and increases the safety of the structure, since combustion products cannot enter the room.

The products of combustion are immediately removed to the outside

This installation is only suitable if the boiler is located directly on the outer wall. The design will not allow to perform an extended horizontal section. The advantages of using it include an attractive appearance of the building. This option is best suited for liquid and gaseous fuel boilers. The disadvantage of the design will be the increased formation of condensate, which leads to the deposition on the walls of substances that destroy the pipe.

An external chimney is made in the same way as the internal one, but it should be provided for the insulation of its walls in contact with cold air. The thickness of the thermal insulation is up to 10 cm and is assigned depending on the climatic features of the area. It is important that in most cases the pipe will still pass through the roofing, so it is worth following the recommendations for internal conclusions. In the lower part, a hole is provided for checking and cleaning, and a drip is also installed. Under the brick pipe, you will have to make a separate foundation or a ledge of a support under the house.

It is worth considering the following masonry requirements:

provision of dressing;
production of ceramic solid bricks on lime (cement-lime) mortar inside the house;
after the output through the roof, the masonry is performed on a cement mortar;
the thickness of the seams should not exceed 10 mm;
plastering of the inner surface of the pipe is prohibited.

Metal chimneys

Here, during installation, in addition to taking into account the distance in order to secure the wall or ceiling, a different thickness of the inner wall is taken for heating devices from which combustion products are removed:

Smoke extraction system through a sandwich pipe

boilers on gas, diesel fuel, pellets - 0.5 mm;
fireplaces and stoves - 0.8 mm;
boilers on coal -1.0 mm.

The wall is made of stainless steel. An additional advantage of such a chimney is that it comes with elements in order to carry out the passage of the chimney through a wooden floor, roof or wall.

Installation through the wall railing eliminates the need to pass through the ceiling and roof. This method increases the safety of the system, since the pipe is located outside and combustion products cannot enter the room. For a metal pipe through a wall, ready-made parts are used. At the same time, it is important to remember that a horizontal section appears and a sliding seal must be provided, which will not allow damage to the chimney during shrinkage of wooden structures.

Installation through the outer wall of metal pipes is the easiest option for making a chimney with your own hands. This method allows you to change the direction of the pipes without difficulty. The work is carried out in the following order:

Marking the laying route, determining the exit point through the wall fence. Making a hole according to the size of the chimney.
Fixing the inside of the pipe, passing through a hole in the wall, insulation.
Changing the direction of the chimney at an angle of 90 degrees using a special tee with a cleaning valve, which provides the possibility of revision and cleaning. The device is installed at some distance from the wall.
Increase the pipe in height. Additional tees are required if a change in direction is required. The chimney is fixed to the wall using special fasteners located every 2 meters.

Pipe insulation

To bring the pipe out with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for its insulation. The situation here is similar to the insulation of the chimney when passing through a cold attic and after the exit to the roof has been made. Installation of thermal insulation can be carried out using various materials.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is easy to install and does not burn. There are special elements for pipe insulation on the market that will greatly facilitate the work. If you want to save money, it is better to choose glass wool in mats (rolls). Characterized by high efficiency. You can choose a material suitable for thickness and density.

Basalt pressed cardboard is a durable material that can withstand up to 2000 heating and cooling cycles. Basalt fiber does not burn. The positive aspects will also be low cost and the ability to withstand high temperatures.

Asbestos fabric is common in our country to comply with fire requirements, but is not used in Western countries due to the content of carcinogens. When used in outdoor chimneys, human contact with asbestos is minimal, so the material does not pose a hazard.

Installation of insulation for brick pipes is carried out in the same way as the thermal insulation of external walls. There are two options for metal chimneys. The first is the simplest - the purchase of pipes of the "sandwich" type. The design already includes insulation and consists of an outer and inner pipe. The second option is to manufacture an outer casing from stainless steel and lay an effective insulation between it and the chimney. The easiest way in this case is to use mineral wool. The thickness of the thermal insulation is taken no more than 10 cm.

Installation of an external chimney is especially relevant when installing a boiler in an already operated house, since it allows you not to affect the floors and roof.

One of the most important issues here is sufficient pipe insulation.

200 degrees is enough for the wood to begin to char, so installing a chimney in a house made of timber is a complex, serious and responsible process. Installation is necessary so that combustion products do not enter the room, but building didn't catch fire.

For many centuries, people have been building, so a lot of experience has accumulated for their use and installation. Based on the acquired knowledge, mandatory regulations and requirements for the manufacture and installation of equipment and fire safety were developed. All relevant authorities and organizations are guided by a single document regulating the rules for ventilation and space heating.

IN SNiPe prohibitions on the installation of flammable parts on distance of 13 cm from surfaces. Therefore, the installation of furnace equipment in a wooden house must be carried out in accordance with all the rules.

Today, there are many modern materials, but most often a chimney device in a wooden house is made. During installation, do it yourself take into account some of the nuances:

The installation of the pipe should take place with the binding of lime mortar inside the room and cement mortar on the roof.
According to the developed regulations, the chimney must be done. The inner surface of the pipe must not be plastered.
capable bear a large weight.

To avoid structural failure and soot accumulation, it is recommended install an asbestos-cement pipe into the channel, and fill the space between it and the brick with concrete mortar.

Interfloor overlap

The distance between and the chimney must be at least 25 cm. If as an insulating material, then the gap should be approximately 38 cm.
If the house is from a log house, then it is necessary to make a board shield, which is attached to the surface of the wall. This is necessary in order to compensate for the shrinkage of the house.
On the walls below and above it is necessary to make holes to ensure the normal circulation of the air flow.
On wooden floors you need to lay bricks, or other fire resistant materials.

Read also: Chimneys for solid fuel boilers

Exit through the roof

According to the regulations, the distance between the wooden rafters and the brick pipe should not be less than 13 cm.
The gap should be filled with stone wool without the use of binders.
If the roof covered with flammable materials, then in this case the distance must be doubled.
The exit point of the chimney must be covered with non-combustible materials 50 cm from the chimney.

Location above the roof

The height must be not less than 50 cm, if the pipe was installed near the ridge on a plane or slope.
The height must be at least 50 cm above the ridge if the axis of the pipe is From him on the distance 150 cm.
If the axis at the exit of the pipe is 300 cm,- that is not lower than the skate.

Modern manufacturers make fireproof and durable structures from high-quality ceramics. The chimney in a wooden house is assembled from special elements and consists of multiple layers of material. From the inside, the surface is covered with a ceramic material resistant to high temperatures.

Due to the smooth surface, soot does not accumulate, which provides good traction. However, it is recommended to entrust the installation of such structures for a fireplace or stove equipment to professionals, since it has a lot of weight, therefore need some experience and it is unlikely that you will be able to make a quality installation with your own hands.

Ceramic pipe assembly

First you need to prepare a cement pad, after which it is mounted on it. shell as base. Instead, you can use cement composition M150.
In another block, a hole should be made for the ventilation grill, as well as a condensate container should be fixed. Then attach the insulating material between the block and the container.
In another block - do tee hole. Used to connect pipes sealant or cement M150.
If the furnace is connected through a branch, then it is necessary to make a window on two blocks.
The tee leading to the fireplace must be covered with insulating material, and on top lay out a metal apron.
The distance between the unit and the chimney must be at least 5 cm.
The last block is covered with a special plate, and the pipe is a cone.
If it is planned to finish the chimney with brick, then it is recommended use console plate.

Read also: How to make a chimney in a private house

Recently, very often for the manufacture of chimney structures, sandwich pipes are used, which have a lot of benefits:

Thanks to the simple and quick installation, the work you can do it yourself.
Due to its light weight, no special foundation is required.
Optimal thermal insulation provides a layer of mineral wool.
Since the surface of the walls from the inside is quite smooth, soot does not accumulate on it, which provides good traction.
Chimney made of acid-resistant material, so the service life of such structures is quite long.

Required inner wall thickness:

For solar and gas equipment less than 0.5 mm.
For home fireplaces and ovens for a bath - 0.8-1 mm.
For coal-fired equipment - not less than 1 mm.

The thermal insulation layer must be not less than 10 cm, if the chimney is intended for fireplaces and large stoves, and if it is installed for automated equipment, then the insulation layer should be about 5 cm.

overlap

It should be noted that the undoubted advantage of the designs is that they are sold in a complete set. If there are no certain items, then they can be found from another supplier and collected do it yourself.

If the pipe passes between floors, then it is recommended to purchase ready-made factory cutting.
It is used between floors and in the attic.
The inner diameter of such a groove is equal to the outer diameter of the metal chimney from a sandwich pipe.
Between the beams it is necessary to make a square window, the dimensions of which correspond to the dimensions of the cut. It is recommended to make a small margin so that you can wrap several layers of basalt.
The chimney is inserted into the hole.
The airspace is filled with the required amount of basalt material.

Roof

A metal chimney is discharged through the roof in the same way as. To do this, it is recommended to prepare a finished roofing cutting. They differ in slope angles and sizes.

It should be noted that the node passing through roof, rather complex, so you need to prepare for difficulties in order to do everything correctly.
Distance between tree and pipe should be from 25 cm on each side.
Chimney pipe and hole closed with a roof.
Then this material must be brought under tiles or slate.
To the chimney a comfrey is installed on top of the roof and secured with a special clamp to protect against natural precipitation.
The space between the rafters and the pipe is filled with basalt material, and closed from below metal reflector.

Creating a chimney system in a wooden house is a more responsible and serious task than installing chimneys in brick buildings. Too much needs to be thought out so that the system not only functions correctly (has good traction), but is also as tight and safe as possible so that there is no risk of fire.

There are several options to solve this problem. Below we consider the most basic of them.

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

For wooden buildings, you can use any type of chimney: there are no restrictions in this regard, the only nuance is only the highest quality implementation. The most popular are stainless steel, ceramic and brick chimneys.

Immediately you need to make a reservation about the brick chimney: such pipes are highly susceptible to damage from condensation. Therefore, it is categorically not recommended to install them without preliminary planning of the insulation system, without a condensate drain and without a sleeve inside. In addition, brick pipes become clogged the fastest: due to the porous surface of the brick itself and the mortar between it, and also because of the gaps between the bricks. As a result, such systems need to be cleaned more often, and in addition, this is more difficult to do (than cleaning a chimney with a smooth wall surface).

If you need to save money, then stainless steel is the cheapest and fastest to install. Steel pipes are much less exposed to moisture, get dirty more slowly (since their walls are smooth) and are easier to clean.

Ceramics is used less frequently: it is both more expensive and more difficult to install. However, ceramic pipes can last longer than stainless ones if properly maintained.

The best option if a wooden house is being built for a long stay (that is, if it is a cottage, not a summer cottage): a brick shaft with a stainless sleeve inside. Such a chimney will last a long time, and if necessary, it can be easily repaired (the inner sleeve is simply replaced with a new one).

Where to mount: inside or outside?

It is important to consider where exactly the chimney will be located. In most cases, it is recommended to carry it out from the outside, but mounting inside is also possible.

If you make a chimney from the inside, then if it is necessary to install or repair it, the amount of work will be much larger, and it will be more difficult to complete them. In this case, it will be necessary to violate the interior decoration of the premises. In addition, such systems are more difficult to track because they are invisible to the eye (at least most of them).

It is better to make the outlet of the chimney outside, because:

the area inside the house is not occupied (albeit a small space, but it is freed up);
if the chimney has to be repaired or replaced, it will not be necessary to disassemble the wall inside the house (that is, it will not be necessary to transfer furniture and then redo the finish);
you do not have to make a passage through the floors and roof;
the pipe located outside is much easier and easier to follow: if there are any problems, they can be noticed much earlier than if it lay in the wall.

Of the minuses: the pipe will have to be insulated along its entire length (whereas internal chimneys must be insulated only in cold areas: in an unheated attic, above and below the roof). However, it is still easier to do than to mount the shaft inside the house.

Basic norms and rules of installation

There are regulations and rules for installing chimneys in wooden buildings. It is imperative to comply with them, otherwise serious problems may arise: fire of wooden materials is possible, a quick failure of the chimney, depressurization.

Basic rules and regulations:

When driving through wooden elements, it is imperative to maintain a minimum distance of 38 centimeters from the internal chimney to combustible structures (such as wood or some kind of fabric elements, for example). This space must be completely filled with non-burning elements.
If the pipe is laid through wooden elements specially protected from fire, then the distance between them and the chimney can be reduced to 25 centimeters ( but not recommended).
It is necessary to carry out the sealing of the structure correctly, to conduct a complete analysis of its condition before commissioning. It is necessary to patch any cracks and cracks, even the smallest ones - they can cause depressurization in the future.
It is recommended to sleeve the smoke channel in advance at the stage of building a house, which will allow you to insure against possible depressurization and fire.

Stages of installation of a brick chimney

A brick chimney is most often used for stoves, in cottages, in a bathhouse, in small private houses, sometimes in a country house. The installation scheme is full of nuances, so first you need to make out a few important points:

laying should be done with dressing, carried out on a lime or cement-lime (it will be more expensive) mortar, and when laying above the roof, cement mortar should be used;
for work it is necessary to use a solid red brick;
the seam should be no more than 10 millimeters, plastering the inside is prohibited;
holes must be made in the side walls to improve air circulation;
indented wooden floors must be covered with a row of bricks or tiles;
if the whole structure has a large mass, it is necessary to build a foundation.

Remember that brickwork is most exposed to destruction due to condensation. Also remember that due to the roughness of the brick, soot will accumulate inside the chimney much faster, and it will have to be cleaned more often.

Conducting a chimney through the roof (if you are building a shaft inside the house) is carried out according to the following rules:

when leading the pipe through the ceiling, make sure that the distance between the outer part of the pipe and the wooden rafters is at least 130 mm (all this space should be filled with basalt or stone wool made without an organic binder);
when installing a roof made of potentially flammable materials, it is necessary to increase the distance to 260 millimeters;
at the exit point, it is necessary to make a coating using fireproof materials (slate can be used, but roofing steel is better) - at a distance of at least 500 mm from the pipe, followed by fitting for an otter.

Regulations on the height of the pipe above the roof:

If it is located near the ridge of a pitched or flat roof, the height may be less than 500 mm.
If it is located above the roof ridge with a chimney axis exit length of less than 1500 mm from the parapet or ridge, the distance must be at least 500 mm.
Not lower than an abstract line that goes down at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge to the horizon, when the chimney axis extends more than 3000 mm from the ridge.

Steps for installing a stainless steel chimney

Metal chimneys have a huge number of advantages over brick ones, so recently they have been installed much more often. It is worth noting their most important advantages:

extremely convenient and quick installation (compared to brick and ceramic);
it is not required to prepare the foundation, since the whole structure is light in weight;
the inner surfaces of the metal chimney are smooth, so soot does not accumulate on them and, as a result, draft does not decrease;
The inner channel of the chimney is made of acid-resistant stainless steel, which ensures its long-term operation and safety of use.

It is important to select a chimney made of stainless steel, focusing on the table of its thickness in relation to the temperature of the flue gases. The regulation is:

Thickness from 0.5 mm - for gas, pellet and diesel fuel boilers.
Thickness from 0.8 to 1 mm - on stoves (including baths) and fireplaces.
Thickness from 1 mm - for coal-fired boilers.

If the chimney will be mounted for coal stoves, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be no more than 100 millimeters. If we are talking about an automated boiler, then the thickness should not exceed 50 millimeters.

A few nuances about the passage of the roof:

the distance from the chimney pipe to the tree must be no less than 250 millimeters on both sides, the pipe opening and the chimney on top are closed with a roof;
from above, the roof must be brought under slate or tile;
on top of the roof, you need to mount a comfrey with clamping it with a clamp (to protect against precipitation);
the free space between the chimney and the rafters must be filled with basalt wool and the structure must be closed from below with a metal reflector.

Stages of installation of a ceramic chimney

Installation of a ceramic chimney is easier than in the case of a brick one, but a little more difficult than with a stainless steel one.

Installation rules:

Given that the ceramic chimney is represented by a modular system, its installation is carried out from prefabricated segments of full factory readiness. That is, in fact, you just need to assemble the pipe from the bottom to the top, and attach it to the wall.
The inner tube must be made of heat-resistant and acid-resistant ceramics.
Given the large mass of the structure, you need to prepare the foundation for it (this is the main requirement).

This species has been very popular recently, including due to its high resistance to negative environmental factors.

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

Read in the article

The probability of a significant increase in pressure in the channel provides for enhanced closure of the joints with specially designed couplings. Joints on steel pipes should be coated with heat-resistant sealants. Full insulation of the chimney contributes to the appearance of the correct draft.

Sandwich panels, which have excellent insulating characteristics, do not exclude the possibility of overheating, and possibly ignition of materials located near the chimney. To prevent such a situation, it is recommended to increase the thermal insulation layer at the joints of the structure.

With a proper understanding of the structure of the chimney and compliance with the main safety rules, fixing it is quite simple. Proper installation requires proper maintenance of the chimney, which includes regular cleaning. This will serve as a kind of "prevention" of accidents during the operation of the furnaces.

Rules for passing through the ceiling

The passage of the chimney through the ceiling must be carried out in accordance with the rules to ensure the safety of the whole house. In this area, proximity to flammable materials is minimal, so insulation should be maximized. Certain rules also depend on the materials from which the chimney is made.

Chimney passing through a wooden ceiling

We will analyze how to draw a chimney through a wooden floor, what distance and width is required. In this area, the brick chimney should have thicker walls than in other places. 50 cm it should be when there is no additional insulation, and the pipe borders on materials that can easily ignite. If there is plaster with a minimum thickness of 25 mm, then a width of 38 cm is allowed. The height of this cutting above the ceiling must be at least 70 cm.

Between the building structure and the cutting in the chimney opening through the wooden ceiling, it is imperative to fill the space with non-combustible materials. On each side, the thickness must be at least 15 cm. Metal chimneys through wooden coverings must have penetration through sleeves made of non-combustible materials.

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

There are two ways to lead a smoke tube through a wall. The first option (in the photo on the left) is to raise it indoors closer to the ceiling, and bring it out there. The second is to draw a conclusion at the level of the flue pipe from the boiler. In this case, almost the entire chimney is on the street.

How can I bring a sandwich chimney through the wall

The second option is preferable - it has only one knee, which means that, under equal conditions, traction will be better. Also, with this structure, there is less chance of the formation of soot plugs.

If the flue outlet is not at the back of the stove, but at the top, the installation scheme changes slightly - a 90 ° elbow is added, then a straight section for passing through the wall, and then the same as in other schemes.

The stove itself is placed on a non-combustible base, the wall behind the stove is closed with a non-combustible screen. The easiest way is to fix a sheet of metal on the wall. You can mount on ceramic insulators 2.5-3 cm in height. There will be a layer of air between the sheet of metal and the wall, so the wall will be safe. The second option is to place heat-insulating material under the metal - for example, mineral wool cardboard. Another option is an asbestos sheet (as in the photo).

Preparation of a place for the installation of a furnace and a PPU installed in the wall with a piece of pipe

A hole is made in the wall. Its dimensions are determined by SNiP - the distance from the pipe to non-combustible walls must be at least 250 mm on all sides, and to combustible ones - 450 mm. It turns out a solid hole, especially when it comes to walls made of combustible materials. There is one point with which you can reduce the size of the hole for the passage of the sandwich: make the dimensions according to the norms of non-combustible walls and sheathe the opening with non-combustible material.

An example of organizing the passage of a sandwich pipe through a wall

The opening can be round or square, as long as fire safety standards are maintained. It is easier to make and sheathe square holes, therefore they are more often made.

This is how a pipe passage through a wall sealed with a sheet of metal looks like

A passage unit is inserted into this hole - a box made of non-combustible material. A sandwich chimney pipe is inserted into it, fixed in the center. All gaps are laid with heat-resistant insulation, the hole is closed on both sides with non-combustible material. Usually it is a sheet of metal.

A passage node is inserted from the side of the room. In this case, it is made of minerite, but it can also be metal

One important point: it is necessary to develop a chimney so that there is no junction of two pipes inside the wall. All joints must be visible and serviceable.

Next, you need to make or install a ready-made support bracket that will support the entire weight of the pipe. The design may differ in details, but the main idea is the same - a support platform, which, with the help of stops, transfers weight to the wall.

Home-made support platform for an outdoor sandwich chimney from corners 50 * 50 mm and 40 * 40 mm Do-it-yourself support platform from a perforated corner Design from a U-shaped metal profile

A similar design can be welded from a profile pipe of a small section of 25 * 25 mm or 25 * 40 mm.

As you can see, a tee is connected to the pipe that runs through the wall. At the bottom there is a removable glass in which condensate accumulates. Some models have a fitting with a small tap at the bottom. This is even more convenient - you don’t need to remove the glass, you can connect a hose to the fitting, take it into some kind of container (it is very toxic, so you don’t need to drain it near the house) and drain it by simply turning the tap.

Next, the tuba is brought to the required level. Since in this case the distance to the ridge will obviously be more than 3 m, it is possible that the height of the chimney is slightly lower than the ridge - not lower than 10 ° in relation to the horizontal line drawn from the level of the ridge.

Lead the chimney preferably above the ridge

But since this house is located in a lowland, to ensure traction, the pipe was raised even higher than the ridge. It was fastened to the wall with stainless steel clamps, with a step of a little more than a meter. On the roof there are stretch marks made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. To install stretch marks, there are special clamps "with ears" to which stretch marks are attached.

Fastening stretch marks to the chimney from sandwich tubes

Another important point that many people forget about: at the place where the pipe is installed, on the roof, you need to install a snow retainer section, otherwise, in the spring, the pipe can be blown away with snow (if the pipe is not brought out towards the gable, as in the photo).

Organization of the node through the walls of the house or bath

Today, installing a sandwich chimney is practiced in two main ways: inside the house or outside. Indeed, more and more often you can see that chimneys are mounted directly through the wall to the street, and from the first floor - and from there they are already directed vertically upwards. And this makes sense: this way the chimney cools down much faster, and does not pass through fireproof ceilings and roofs. On the other hand, a chimney that rises through the attic usually serves as an additional heating element. But the risk of fire here, of course, will already be higher.

You will be surprised, but in fact, the outer shell of a stainless steel sandwich is not far from the temperature of a single-circuit chimney. After all, in fact, such a chimney was originally designed to improve draft, and therefore the gases that exit the furnace usually have a temperature of 800 degrees Celsius, and the outer casing can warm up to 300 degrees! And this is far from a fireproof surface.

A modern sandwich chimney is led both through the roof and directly through the walls of a residential building:

You can see the node in more detail in this illustration:

So, the following step-by-step instruction will help you organize the correct angle of passage of the sandwich chimney through the walls:

Step 1. Before starting work, be sure to calculate the length of the horizontal sandwich pipe that will need to be passed through the wall. And take into account the tee that you will install. Calculate the slope of the roof so that the chimney does not end up too close to the eaves.
Step 2. Fill the box that you insert into the wall with non-combustible basalt material.
Step 3. Close the passage assembly with a lid so that the basalt cardboard gasket remains visible.
Step 4. Close the edges of such an assembly cover with a casing from the components of the exterior decoration of the house, for example, siding.
Step 5. Treat the edges of the box with a colorless roofing sealant.
Step 6 Install a revision at the outlet of the chimney from the wall.
Step 7. Fix the chimney with special wall brackets, one for every 1.5-2 meters.
Step 8. So, after you have installed the pipe, check its verticality with a level.
Step 9. Be sure to make sure that the seam is turned towards the house.

After all, the most important rule sounds like this: the chimney passage through the wall of a house or bath should be protected from fire as much as possible. Here is a good example of such a node:

In order for the horizontal element of the sandwich chimney to be installed securely, it must be properly supported with a metal corner:

Special designs will also help to fix such a chimney to the wall in a strictly vertical position:

Believe me, at this stage the work is not over yet, especially if your chimney will have a complex design (which we strongly do not recommend to you):

Ceramic chimneys

In the manufacture of an internal chimney, the following requirements are imposed on it:

Ceramic pipe device

the minimum distance from the chimney to the supporting beams, if laying between the pipe and the ceiling of asbestos sheets in two layers is provided - 250 mm, without asbestos laying - 380 mm.
in the presence of asbestos insulation, the distance from the pipe to the wooden wall is assumed to be 250 mm or more, if no insulation is provided, the distance is assumed to be at least 380 mm.
when using mineral wool for insulation, the distance from the pipe to the rafters is taken at least 130 mm;
when using combustible materials - 260 mm;
for roofing in places of contact with the pipe, materials resistant to high temperatures (steel, ceramic tiles, slate) should be used. If materials such as bituminous shingles are used, it must be prevented from contacting the pipe. The distance from the bituminous coating to the chimney in the plan should be at least 50 cm.

The products of combustion are immediately removed to the outside

An external chimney is made in the same way as the internal one, but it should be provided for the insulation of its walls in contact with cold air. The thickness of thermal insulation is up to 10 cm and is assigned depending on the climatic features of the area

It is important that in most cases the pipe will still pass through the roofing, so it is worth following the recommendations for internal conclusions. In the lower part, a hole is provided for checking and cleaning, and a drip is also installed

Under the brick pipe, you will have to make a separate foundation or a ledge of a support under the house.

It is worth considering the following masonry requirements:

provision of dressing;
production of ceramic solid bricks on lime (cement-lime) mortar inside the house;
after the output through the roof, the masonry is performed on a cement mortar;
the thickness of the seams should not exceed 10 mm;
plastering of the inner surface of the pipe is prohibited.

Benefits of external hosting

Until quite recently, the only possible option for placing a chimney was internal. This option allows you to maximize the use of heat coming from the pipe. However, it has significant disadvantages, the biggest of which is low fire safety and bulkiness. An external chimney, in which the pipe passes through the wall, has the following advantages:

External chimney with passage through the wall

Compactness. It does not take up space inside the bath, so it can be used in the smallest buildings. This plus is especially relevant for brick chimneys, as they take up a lot of space.
Fire safety. In contrast, the placement of the chimney inside the bath, external, according to experts, is more fireproof. This quality is very important for structures with such a high fire risk.
Ease of assembly. Due to the fact that during the installation process only 1 passage through the wall is equipped, the installation of the external one, without resorting to the expensive services of professional craftsmen.

Note! The harsh Russian climate is a difficult test for external ones, since a large difference between the external and internal temperatures in the pipe causes condensate to form. When the pipe is led through the wall, most of the chimney is laid outside the bath, so the efficiency of the furnace decreases, and fuel consumption increases

To remove these negative aspects characteristic of external smoke exhaust channels, thermal insulation is performed or special sandwich systems are used.

Chimneys that pass through the wall do not have a vertical configuration, as they are laid with 1-2 turns. Such a device reduces the traction force inside the pipe, interfering with the normal operation of the furnace. To avoid this situation, pipes of larger diameter are used for do-it-yourself installation.

wooden wall

The principle of mounting through a wooden wall is similar to that described above, but there are some precautions that are important to observe. . A hole is made, the diameter of which must be calculated in such a way that there is a distance of at least 450 mm from the central pipe, which will be heated to the maximum, to the combustible material.
The space around the pipe is filled with basalt insulation

It is very resistant to temperature. The highest value reaches 1000ºC.

A hole is made, the diameter of which must be calculated in such a way that there is a distance of at least 450 mm from the central pipe, which will be heated to the maximum, to the combustible material.
In order for security to be at the maximum level, it is best to use sandwich panels for output.
The space around the pipe is filled with basalt insulation. It is very resistant to temperature. The highest value reaches 1000ºC.
Provide for the presence of a gate (damper) that can be closed in the summer or when the system is not in use.
Outside and inside, a sheet of galvanized tin or stainless steel is stuffed, which will hold the cotton wool inside.
When fixing the pipe to the wall, a gap of 10 cm must be observed to ensure fire safety.
A prerequisite will be the installation of spark arresters.

Sandwich pipes

If you want not to worry at all about the fact that there will be poor traction, then you can provide for the presence of a deflector. This is a special umbrella that is installed at the top of the pipe and contributes to a greater pressure drop. There are options that themselves turn in the wind and the stream pulls the smoke along.

Outdoor wall chimney

In this way, the pipe can be removed both in the bath and in. Before doing all this, it is very important to make rigorous calculations so as not to miscalculate the size and height. Don't skimp on materials. In the end, both your life and the life of your loved ones may depend on the reliability of the entire structure.

Fixing the chimney to the wall always starts from the heating equipment. In order to select the correct diameter of the chimney pipe, it is necessary to study the recommendations of the manufacturer of the boiler or fireplace.

In this case, the following characteristics should be taken into account:

boiler power affects the diameter of the chimney pipe;
in addition to a drop in power, a short chimney can cause smoke in the interior;
at the same time, a long chimney tends to "force" the heating equipment. Thus, energy costs will increase significantly, while heating efficiency may fall.

The heating device is connected to the chimney using a special transition or connecting element - a tee, pipe or elbow.

Let's look at an example. Suppose that the house is already completely ready, and inside there is already a heating boiler. Thus, it is no longer advisable to install a classic internal chimney - the cost of passing through the floors and the roof will be enormous. Therefore, in this situation, the best solution would be to lead the chimney through the wall. To do this, it is enough to build an external chimney, and it is connected to the boiler with a horizontal pipe. It is worth remembering that the length of this transition should not exceed 1 meter. Otherwise, the draft in the chimney is significantly reduced. If a situation arises when it is structurally impossible to fulfill this recommendation, then it is necessary to compensate for the draft by increasing the height of the chimney.

To organize a single-circuit system, a pipe made of enameled or stainless steel is used. Such a chimney is easy to install and much lower cost.

The double-circuit system is made according to the "pipe in pipe" principle, while thermal insulation is laid between their surfaces. This system is more practical, as it has greater protection against external damage and does not form condensate. Due to these properties, such a system has found wide application in the construction of wooden houses.

How to make a chimney through a wall

For independent work, you need to stock up on the following materials and tools:

clamps and corners;
aluminum tape;
sealant resistant to high temperatures;
riveter;
drill and drills;
Bulgarian.

Chimney on the outer wall - the main elements

The most important element is a heating device - a boiler, a stove, a chimney, which directly affects the main parameters of the chimney. To be able to control the movement of smoke, it is necessary to implement branches. The connecting elbows must have the specified flue direction deflection angle characteristic.

The parts of the outlet are interconnected using a tungsten electrode. Depending on the design and length of the chimney, the number of elements can be completely different. At this stage of work, viewing windows and dampers are installed. Optionally, dampers can be installed in transitions, bends or pipes. It is much more important to remember here that the dampers are installed so that they do not come into contact with the walls of the pipe. Otherwise, under the influence of high temperatures, the damper may jam.

In addition, you need a stand for a tee. A stainless steel chimney pipe is used. Attach the stand to the wall using dowels

In this case, special attention should be paid to the distance between the wall and the chimney.

The outlet of the chimney through the wall is mounted using stainless steel tees, using thermal insulation. These elements allow you to connect the heater to the chimney

In the future, the tees will be used to drain condensate, clean and revise the elements of the chimney.

Condensate drain pipes or inspection windows are installed at the bottom or side of the tee. After collecting all the elements, the window door is planted on silicone. The tees themselves can be solid, prefabricated or through. Depending on the type, they are connected at different angles.

Brackets must be used for proper installation of the chimney. You can create them yourself. For this they take

Since it is important to comply with the requirements of fire regulations, it is important at this stage to correctly maintain the distance from the wall to the chimney.

The external chimney must be covered with a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, the pipe is placed in a special casing

Basalt fiber (in a simple way - mineral wool) can serve as a heat-insulating material. The casing is made of stainless steel, galvanized steel or other materials resistant to corrosion.

Choice of chimney type

The choice of material and design of the chimney is determined by the architecture of the house, as well as the features of the heating units that will be connected to the smoke exhaust system. So, for example, the temperature of the flue gases of a pellet boiler rarely exceeds 250 degrees, and the temperature of the flue gases of a coal-fired boiler can reach 700 degrees Celsius. Obviously, the requirements for a coal-fired boiler chimney are much more stringent.

brick chimneys

Brick chimneys are common in old houses, where the stove and chimney were often built before the building itself. Today, brick is not as popular, but many homeowners choose it.

Advantages of brick chimneys:

high mechanical strength;
relative durability;
attractive appearance.

Disadvantages of brick chimneys:

big weight;
rectangular section (not ideal in terms of traction);
rough surface;
sensitive to strong acids and aggressive chemical compounds;
complexity of installation and maintenance.

For the installation of chimneys, red solid brick is used. Masonry inside the house is performed using lime or cement-lime mortars. For laying bricks above the roof level, only waterproof cement mortar is suitable.

Ceramic chimneys

Ceramic chimneys are a great alternative to bulky brick structures and rather short-lived sheet steel chimneys. They are widely used in modern houses made of logs, timber and other wood-based materials.

Advantages of ceramic chimneys

mechanical strength;
good traction;
ease of installation;
possibility of installation both inside and outside the building;
resistance to aggressive compounds;
resistance to high temperatures (up to 1000 degrees);
exceptional durability (manufacturer's warranty for many systems is 30 years or more);
high-quality thermal insulation.

The latter should be mentioned separately. In the vast majority of cases, ceramic chimneys have a three-component structure. Each element includes a piece of ceramic pipe with a smooth inner surface, heat-insulating mats and a lightweight concrete box. Thus, even with the passage of very hot fuel gases, the outer shell of concrete practically does not heat up.

For the installation of chimneys in wooden houses, this is very important.

The disadvantage of ceramic smoke exhaust systems is only one - the high price.

Metal chimneys

There are one-component and two-component metal chimneys.

One-piece chimneys consist of simple steel pipes with a round section. This is the cheapest solution, but it has many disadvantages:

low durability;
large heat losses;
the impossibility of outdoor installation;
the need to create complex and expensive thermal insulation.

The latter is especially important in the case of wooden houses. Thermal insulation is used literally wherever even the slightest heating is possible. This applies to any chimney, but in the case of thin steel pipes, this is especially important.

A two-component chimney (steel chimney "sandwich") has its own heat-insulating layer, which is located between two steel pipes. This is a more expensive, durable and safe option. Such a chimney can be used, including for outdoor installation, which allows you not to pass through all the ceilings and the roof, but to make one passage through the wall at the installation point of the heating unit ().

Advantages and disadvantages

When removing the chimney through the wall, we can note the appearance of some positive aspects in this design:

Saving interior space.
The possibility of equipping the channel even after the completion of the construction of the house.
Installation, installation of such structures is much easier than similar structures inside.
High fire safety. After all, the internal walls can reach temperatures of more than 1000 degrees, indoors this is a huge minus, unlike the street, where you can ignore such temperatures.
Over time, even the most hermetic and high-quality chimneys begin to pass carbon monoxide through the cracks and cracks formed in the walls.
In the event of any problems with draft, it is possible to adjust the chimney pipe without damaging and violating integrity in the passageways.

Disadvantages regarding, including the installation of a sandwich chimney:

Mandatory insulation (with the exception of the "sandwich").
The external channel, in some cases, requires the allocation of the necessary "piece" of land.
From external systems, heat escapes into the atmosphere, when an additional source of heating could be arranged inside the house.
It is difficult to match the design to the design of the building.
With high channel sizes, the fastening system can become a problem, from a large windage.

How to install a chimney through the roof

When removing the chimney from the sandwich pipes through the roof, it is necessary to take into account the location of the floor beams and rafter legs on the roof. It is necessary to guess so that the pipe passes between these elements. The minimum distance from the outer wall of the pipe to the fuel element must be at least 13 cm, and this is provided that the fuel element is protected by insulation. To meet this requirement, the pipe often has to be moved. Do this using two 45° angles.

Offset pipe to pass through the ceiling

Please note that the installation of a sandwich chimney from a solid fuel boiler begins with a metal pipe without insulation. She is black in the photo above.

After it, an adapter is placed on a sandwich, and a chimney with insulation enters the passage unit.

A hole is cut in the ceiling that meets fire regulations - 250 mm from the edge of the pipe, if the ceiling is protected by heat-insulating material. Having cut a hole, its edges are covered with non-combustible heat-insulating material. Minerite is best suited for this (nailed or fastened with wood screws).

Gray material around the perimeter of the hole - minerite

A chimney sandwich pipe is inserted into the resulting box. It should be directed strictly vertically, without the slightest deviation. You can’t fix it rigidly, you can only give direction by installing a few slats that will hold it, but it can move up / down without difficulty. This is necessary, since when heated, its length increases significantly.

The remaining space is filled with basalt wool (check the temperature range). Another option is to pour expanded clay, granular foamed glass. Previously, sand was still covered, but sooner or later, it all woke up through the cracks, so now this option is unpopular. On the front side, all this “beauty” is covered with a stainless steel sheet, under which non-combustible material is placed (between it and the ceiling). Previously, it was asbestos sheet, but since asbestos was recognized as a carcinogen, mineral wool cardboard was used.

There is one more option. Beat the edges of the hole with mineral wool, and then insert the finished stainless steel ceiling-through unit. It immediately has both a box and a decorative stainless screen.

Ready-made ceiling-through node (one of the options)

Having brought the pipe to the attic, they make a hole in the roofing pie. All films at the passage point (vapor barrier and waterproofing) are cut crosswise. The resulting triangles are wrapped and secured with staples from a stapler. So the damage is minimal. The exposed crate is cut so that there is at least 13 cm to the pipe.

How to bring the chimney through the roof - the passage of the ceiling and roof

In the right photo above, the passage through the roof is incorrect - the distance between the pipe and the boards is too small. In a good way, it is necessary to cut them according to the standard, beat them with the same mineralite. You should get something similar to the following photo.

Correct passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof

Master flash for sandwich chimney - rubber cap with flexible "skirt"

The junction of rubber and pipe is sealed with a heat-resistant sealant. The roof surface under the “skirt” is also coated with a sealant.

Tube-mounted master flash

Please note that each connection of the sandwich modules is tightened with a clamp. This is also true for the internal chimney.

Material selection

Additional elements of sandwich pipes

Today, there are a large number of ready-made solutions for arranging a chimney, but some prefer to go the proven route and do everything on their own.

Brick. A good option if you are making a chimney for a conventional stove or fireplace. The advantage of this material will be the possibility of its combination with the general exterior of the building. Also, insulation is not required with proper calculation and installation. If you need a sufficiently high design, then it will turn out to be very overall.
Stainless pipe. It is especially relevant when acidic emissions are possible. In this case, it is better if it has molybdenum in its composition. The disadvantage is the need for its good insulation. If this is not done, then too much condensate will accumulate, which will worsen traction.
Double-circuit or consist of two metal sleeves. One of them is placed inside the other, and the space between them is filled with insulation. They can both be made of stainless steel, or only the inner one, and the outer one made of galvanized steel. Supplied in blocks, so assembly is not difficult. There are adapters that allow you to connect them to the pipe coming out of the stove or fireplace.
Ceramic pipe. An excellent option that can withstand high temperatures. Also needs warming. The downside is the rather high price and fragility of the structure.

Design features

Despite the huge choice of materials for the construction of chimneys, double-circuit steel pipes, popularly referred to as "sandwich", are the most widely used today.

The chimney type "sandwich" is a two-layer structure. Between two metal pipes of different diameters, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, which simultaneously serves as an insulator and a heater.

Video: Sandwich pipe chimney

Compared to single-circuit pipes, which are made from steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, the double-circuit design is characterized by increased fire safety and better technical characteristics. For installation of a chimney outside the building, single-circuit pipes are not recommended. Indeed, due to just one layer, they are simply not able to retain heat in the cold season. Due to a sharp temperature drop in such a chimney, condensate forms, which reduces draft and creates plugs in the pipe.

The device of a double-circuit sandwich pipe

Therefore, for installing a chimney through a wall, the best option would be to buy a sandwich pipe. The popularity of such a double-circuit chimney is due to the low price compared to a brick chimney, attractive appearance, excellent technical characteristics, fire safety and long-term operation.

In addition, the installation of a chimney from this material can be done by hand. And although there are some nuances and subtleties here, even a beginner can cope with the task if you strictly follow our detailed instructions.

External chimney, choose the method, prepare the elements

Passage through the wall can be done in two ways - single-circuit and double-circuit .

The first in the case of a sandwich construction is irrelevant- it is used if they want to reduce the cost of installation with their own hands by installing a conventional pipe made of enamelled steel. You can find a video with a detailed explanation of how to make such a chimney correctly on the Internet.
Double-circuit (aka internal) method- a more acceptable option for output through the wall. in which the main part of the chimney "leaves" inside the wall through which the passage is made, and the pipe itself is insulated with heat-insulating materials. This is the “sandwich version”, which is sufficiently well protected from mechanical influences, plus, with a double-circuit method, a valve must be installed, with its help the owner of the heating boiler and the external chimney can regulate the draft.

What to prepare for the installation of a chimney-sandwich with your own hands?

Firstly, pipes, and plus to them - tees, with which you can branch the smoke channel, and then connect the chimney to the furnace of the heater.
Secondly, the knee (without it, you can’t bend to the desired degree).
Thirdly, the support console (the basis for the design of the external chimney) and clamps (do not forget about the need to fix the structure to the wall through an optimal distance of 60 cm).
Fourthly, an inspection tee, a condensate collector and a mouth - it will complete the design.

Passage through the wall: from the boiler and beyond The output of the external chimney starts from the inside - from the heating boiler / fireplace / stove: the chimney is attached to the pipe of the heating device, fixed with a plug - and goes further, to the place of passage through the wall.

Where the chimney will exit to the outside depends on many factors, but the best option is from the gable side. If it does not work out with it, and installation is possible only from the side of the roof slope, it is worth taking care of preparing the support rack. But first, measure the roof overhang - if it exceeds 40 cm, the stand is not needed: when attaching the structure, you can simply run the pipe through the overhang, this will serve as an additional means of fixation. Above the place where the chimney outlet will be, you need to strengthen the snow retainer.

The main stages of assembling an external chimney with your own hands:

mark the place of output, prepare a hole for the through pipe;
fix the branch pipe in the prepared hole, insulate (foiled mineral wool can be used);
connect the chimney to the heater: the elbow in three sections is joined to the tee (a transition element is used).

To change the direction of the chimney, you will need a tee with a cleaning glass - then (all with your own hands) it will not be difficult to dismantle it to clean it. The tee with a glass is fixed with a bracket.

How to run a chimney through a wooden wall Mounting a steel chimney pipe Assembling and installing a sandwich chimney
Chimney in the bath through the ceiling

Pros and cons of installing an external chimney

The chimney located in the wall, of course, is more familiar to our eyes and does not attract the attention of others. But at the same time, it also has its drawbacks, which are more than covered by an external hood.

Installing an attached external chimney significantly increases the fire safety of the room. After all, everyone knows that over time, soot deposits accumulate in the pipe, which, with high heat, can flare up no worse than gasoline. At the same time, during its combustion, temperatures arise that only ceramics can withstand. Therefore, an external chimney is the safest in this regard.
Minimization of possible smoke. With the correct design of the chimney of this sample, the part of its outlet channel located inside the room is negligible, and therefore the probability of exhaust gases entering the room tends to zero.
The possibility of arranging without disturbing the roofing and installation in an already finished building (I know from practice that not many people want to “hole” the roof).
Simple increase in thrust due to freely selectable pipe height.

Certain disadvantages of such a design include only the need for the correct choice of fasteners for its reliable fixation, the likelihood of strong windage when climbing to a great height and a possible violation of the general style of the building.

Functionality and design features

The range of optimal chimney length is 5 - 10 meters. An indicator below the minimum value makes traction difficult, and a pipe longer than the designated 10 meters will provoke excessive combustion, increasing fuel consumption.

Chimney through the wall to the street

Since the smoothness of the inner planes of the chimney allows to increase its durability, due to a slight accumulation of soot, consumers are increasingly choosing a single-layer steel pipe that successfully replaces brick counterparts. The installation of the chimney is facilitated if its modern design is used, consisting of two steel pipes nested one inside the other with an insulating layer of stone wool between them.

Such a system has proven its practicality, since negatively acting condensate does not form inside, and the outer surfaces receive little heat.

Making the output of the chimney through the wall with its further installation outside the house, it is necessary to consider the design of the protective box. It is advisable to make it brick, or use drywall, supplemented with refractory thermal insulation.

Three-layer chimneys, the inner cylindrical pipe of which is made of ceramic, followed by a heat-insulating layer and outer blocks made of lightweight concrete, also show high performance.

Chimney selection

Before you bring the chimney through the wall, you need to decide what type of chimney you are going to use.

There are many variations on the market, but not all of them are suitable for installation for a wooden house. Among the most popular systems, two should be singled out.

Single wall chimney systems. They are made from galvanized sheet or stainless steel. Single-wall systems have one significant advantage - an affordable price. This option is well suited for inexpensive country houses or cottages. But if you have invested a considerable amount in houses, then it is better to refuse this idea, since single-walled steel chimneys do not have a long service life. In addition, it will be necessary to organize highly effective thermal insulation. In addition to metal pipes, single-wall systems are often made of ceramic and polymer counterparts. But their cost is higher.
Double wall chimneys. Double-wall chimneys or sandwich systems are the best solution for a wooden house. The design feature is low thermal conductivity and multilayer. The device of a double-walled chimney includes two pipes of different diameters, which are located inside each other, and a heat-insulating material that fills the intermediate space between the pipes. When choosing a similar device for a private home, purchase a mandatory one with a mom-dad connection. Flanged designs are commercially available, but they are more suitable for industrial purposes.

To properly install, using single-wall or double-wall chimney systems, follow some recommendations. Your main guideline is the instructions for the heating equipment, the chimney for which you are going to organize with your own hands.

Make markings on the wall, guided by the level of the outlet from the heating boiler or stove.
According to the markings, a hole is made in the wall. Moreover, its diameter should be one and a half times the diameter of the chimney channel. This is required in order to install a passage glass between the chimney and the wooden wall.
A pipe is inserted into the resulting hole. One of its ends is mounted on heating equipment, and the other goes to a tee. A tee is an indispensable thing that allows you to organize effective condensate drainage.
A void is formed in the space between the wall of the wooden house and the branch pipe, filled with heat-insulating material.
A tin casing is mounted on top of the insulation.
A tee is already fixed on the branch pipe, on the outside of which a pipe directed vertically is installed.
If the roof is gable, the pipe should reach the ridge. If the roof is flat, the end of the chimney pipe will rise above it by at least 50 centimeters.
Never install a chimney pipe close to the walls of a wooden house. The distance between the elements is at least 20 centimeters. To achieve the desired distance, use the mounting brackets.

It is not difficult to draw chimney channels through the walls of a wooden house if you correctly complete the passage, use effective heat-insulating materials and use a chimney of appropriate quality. Installation is often done by hand.

Be sure to read these articles:

- Connecting the stove to the chimney
- Connecting the boiler to the chimney
- Boiler instruction Proterm

Basic rules for installing chimneys

TOAdvantages include the following features

- large savings in space inside the dwelling,
– the probability of installation in an already residential building,
- elimination of requirements for providing floors between floors, since the installation of a chimney is much easier.

The disadvantages include

- organization of mandatory thermal insulation of chimney pipes,
- the presence of a large horizontal section at the location of the chimney through the wall,
- such a chimney gives off a lot of heat to the external environment,
- often it cannot effectively fit into the architectural design of the building

fireplace, stove

- first you need to figure out the rated power of the device. usually this indicator depends on the diameter of the chimney pipe,
- after that, it is necessary to calculate the height of the chimney, which should ensure optimal draft of the heating device. If you choose too small a distance from the exhaust pipe to the end of the chimney, the hearth will not be able to work at full capacity - among other things, a short chimney, improperly selected, will cause smoke in the home,
- too long a chimney will not be able to ensure long-term combustion of fuel and, as a result, will increase fuel costs, because strong draft will affect the unnecessary removal of heat into the atmosphere.

SINGLE CHIMNEYDOUBLE CHIMNEY

Materials and tools for self-assembly of an external chimney

heating stove chimney

Bulgarian,
drill with a set of drills,
riveter,
heat resistant sealant
aluminum tape,
clamps and corners for fastening the outlet pipe.

The main elements of the external chimney

what elements and parts are used to install an external chimney system

- of course, first of all, it is the hearth itself or the heating system in the form of a boiler,
– in order to regulate the circulation of flue gases, special plumb lines are used, which must have a suitable smoke deflection angle,
- a tungsten electrode is used for welding the elements of the outlet. In general, we do not specify the number of outlets, since each chimney requires a different number of them,
- during the installation of the chimney, viewing windows and dampers are also installed in tees, bends, pipes and transitions. These elements are used at the request of the owners of the foci,
— dampers must be installed so that they do not have contact with the pipe material, since when expanding under the influence of high temperatures, the damper may jam,
- among other things, you may need a stand for a tee, which can be made from stainless square pipe. Dowels are used to fasten the stand. The stand must be performed following the requirements. So, between the chimney and the wall of the house, the necessary distance should be observed,
- a chimney will be removed through the wall of the house with the help of special heat-insulated tees made of stainless steel. Such tees are used to connect the heating device to the chimney. Subsequently, during the operation of the hearth, the tees will be intended for cleaning, revision and removal of condensate,
- if you explain in more detail the arrangement of the elements of the chimney system, such as condensate drain pipes and inspection windows, you should separately talk about their installation. Typically, these components are mounted either at the bottom of the tee, or on the side. After complete assembly of the equipment in accordance with fire safety requirements, the viewing window door must be fixed with special silicone. Since the options for tees can be very diverse, then they must be connected at different angles,
- the execution of the chimney system is carried out using brackets. Such devices can be made by yourself, for which stainless steel tubes are used. During installation, you must comply with the norms and requirements prescribed in the special sections of the relevant documents. Particular attention should be paid to the calculation of the distance from the chimney to the wall of the house, since condensation may occur during the operation of the heating device, the outer layer requires high-quality thermal insulation. Thus, the chimney is placed in a special protective casing. Basalt fiber is used as a material for insulating the device. The casing is made of galvanized steel, stainless steel or some other materials,
- in some cases, passing an external chimney through the wall of the house requires the use of additional reinforcements, they will help organize the passage glass, and also so that the device can withstand the load.

Basic installation steps

Check if there are any communications in the places of passage through the wall.
Make a marking, and prepare a hole of the desired diameter.
Install a “pipe”, which you carefully seal and heat insulate from the wall with a special fire-resistant material. A special casing can be installed on top.
The pipe is joined to the boiler, stove with the help of three final "knees". The lower part is obligatory, with the help of this outlet it will be possible to carry out cleaning.
The outer section of the second "knee" behind the wall must be fixed, it is important to remember that the horizontal planes should not exceed one meter.
Next is the installation of the vertical part. Pay attention to fastening, use only high-quality fasteners.

Chimney scheme

Fire protection first

Stove or boiler - it doesn't matter

It also doesn’t matter how your chimney goes and what it is made of, in general - it doesn’t matter! The most important thing is the thermal protection of your premises, because a stove or a boiler costs 1000 or 2000 dollars, and the whole building costs tens or even 20 times more. Therefore, the main thing is to understand how to secure the building and what thermal protection is.

The most difficult question is how to ensure that the made passage of the pipe through the outer wall does not present a fire hazard.

Expanded clay is an excellent material for isolating the space at the pipe passage

Where we plan to lay a chimney, it is necessary to cut a fairly wide (at least 25 cm from the chimney) wooden hole in the wall, which is closed on both sides with a special metal flange. It looks neat both from the outside and from the inside, and weighs quite a bit, because the metal sheet is not at all thick. Having closed the transition with the chimney hole from the side of the boiler (on the inside), we fix the metal flange from the side of the room, and then we fill the part that remains between the inner and outer flange with non-combustible material. The best are packing made of basalt wool or expanded clay. Then we close the structure with a flange from the outside and mount the chimney down the street. The protective sleeve must be fastened very securely, on self-tapping screws or anchors, around the entire perimeter.

In the markets you can see two passage nodes - round and square. And many are interested in what is the difference between them. In addition to their form - absolutely none. Under any passage node, you will need to cut out the same square, either in the wall or in the ceiling. And inside the box you will have a chimney. The space is stuffed with mineral wool, expanded clay, basalt fiber or other refractory materials, but not with bricks, and even more so - not with sand. You may have seen how Turkish coffee is made on the sand. So it can get so hot that water is boiled on it, and this is not the limit.

Types of chimneys and their features

Chimneys in a house, especially a wooden one, or in a bath should be made of various refractory materials. Brick chimneys are resistant to high temperatures, durable and aesthetic, but at the same time, the porous and heterogeneous structure of the brick contributes to the accumulation of moisture, the deposition of combustion products - soot and soot. As a result, the clearance of the chimney overgrows, the draft deteriorates, and the operation of the furnace becomes unsafe. It is especially undesirable to use brick chimneys in systems for removing smoke from solid fuel, including pellet, boilers with a closed combustion chamber.

Ferrous metal pipes are not recommended for use in wooden houses and baths, as well as when installing a gas or solid fuel boiler: they get very hot and burn out quickly, which can lead to a fire. Sometimes chimneys from such a pipe are mounted in brick garages and other utility rooms, but even there they are ineffective, as they are subject to corrosion and condensation.

The most successful solution is insulated sandwich chimneys made of stainless steel and ceramics. The round section of the pipes facilitates the passage of smoke and ensures good draft. Soot settles less on a smooth inner surface. Due to the insulation, the formation of condensate is excluded. Thanks to the modular system, their installation is easy to do by hand. Structurally, stainless steel and ceramic sandwich chimneys are somewhat different.

Ceramic Sandwich Chimney is a system of modules, each of which consists of an internal ceramic pipe element and a hollow foam block. For thermal insulation, they are separated by a layer of basalt insulation. The modules are delivered unassembled, assembly is carried out on site using special glue and sealant. To install a ceramic chimney, a foundation is required due to their significant weight.

Stainless steel sandwich chimneys are sold in the form of ready-made modules. They are two pipes of different diameters, nested one inside the other, and separated by a layer of insulation. The inner pipe is made of stainless steel, the outer one can be either stainless steel or galvanized sheet. They are assembled much faster than ceramic ones. In addition, due to its low weight, a stainless steel chimney does not need a foundation.

In terms of fire resistance, ceramic chimneys are superior to all others, they can withstand temperatures up to 1200 degrees Celsius for a long time, some models are equipped with ventilation systems. The service life of such chimneys is at least 50 years. But the price of ceramic chimneys is high, so their installation is advisable only in residential buildings, cottages and other capital buildings.

Brick chimney in a wooden house

The traditional material for the manufacture of chimneys in wooden houses is refractory bricks.

When laying chimneys, special attention must be paid to the bonding of bricks to each other. To connect the elements of a brick chimney in the interior of the house, a mixture of cement and limestone can be used, but when laying bricks in the chimney in the open space, clean cement mortar should be used

The thickness of the seam between the bricks in such a masonry should not exceed one centimeter. The brick should be red and not hollow.

The inner surface of a brick chimney is exposed to the aggressive effects of combustion products, condensate. As a result, chips and collapses can occur on the internal surfaces. To avoid such negative moments, an asbestos-cement pipe is placed inside the brick chimney, and the space between the brick and the pipe is filled with concrete mortar. Thus, you will carry out the so-called "sleeve" of the chimney.

The passage of the chimney through the wooden ceiling

The figure in the article shows how you can lead the chimney through a wooden ceiling.

You can use asbestos layers when passing through the floor. In this case, the distance between the pipe and the floor tree will be 25 centimeters.

In the event that an asbestos gasket is not used, then the distance between the pipe and the tree will have to be increased to 38 centimeters.

Connecting chimneys to wooden walls

As well as when passing through the ceiling - when adjoining wooden walls - the chimney pipes must be reliably thermally insulated.

connecting the chimney to a wooden wall

The standards here are the same as when passing through the ceiling: 25 centimeters when using two layers of asbestos gasket and 38 centimeters without a gasket.

The entire structure can be laid on the sides with brickwork.

If you are installing a chimney in a new, not yet settled log house, then it is better to place it on a wooden shield that can move relative to the wall. In this case, the subsidence of the log house over time will not cause the destruction of the brickwork of the chimney and pipe.

The passage of the chimney through the roof of a wooden house

When removing the chimney through the roof, the distance between its heating elements and the rafters should not be less than 13 centimeters. In the gap between the pipe and the rafter tree, it is necessary to lay a heat insulator. In its quality, basalt wool can be used. When choosing wool for thermal insulation, make sure that it does not contain organic binders and that it is resistant to high temperatures.

chimney passage through the roof

If materials with a low ignition threshold are used as a roof on the roof, for example, sheet roofing material, then the distance to it should not be less than 25 centimeters. The space between the combustible material and the chimney pipe must be covered with a fireproof roof. Slate can serve as such a protective material. It will not transfer heat from the pipe to the roofing felt. Roofing steel can also be used as a protective coating.

The location of the chimney on the roof of a wooden building

The head of the chimney on the roof of a wooden building must rise above it to a height of at least 20 centimeters from the top of the ridge if the pipe is located directly next to the ridge or simply on a flat roof.

If the chimney pipe is less than one and a half meters from the ridge, then its height should also not be less than 50 centimeters.

If the chimney is located at a distance of one and a half to three meters from the ridge, then its head should not be below the level of the ridge.

pipe height above roof

In the event that your chimney is more than three meters from the ridge, then to calculate the height of the pipe head, you must draw an imaginary line directed from the roof ridge with a decrease of 10 degrees.

Chimney assembly and its output through the wall

Before starting installation work, a complete set of parts that are part of the structure to be equipped should be prepared. It should consist of the following standard components:

a set of pipes and connecting elements (tees, in particular) necessary for branching the chimney and bringing it out;
the so-called "elbows", through which it is possible to form a pipe bend at the desired angle (its value is usually indicated in the name of this workpiece);
mounting support console, through which the structure is fixed on the walls (with a set of special clamps);
a special viewing (revision) tee, simultaneously used to clean the channel from soot;
moisture (condensate) collector built into the chimney.

If necessary, additional viewing windows and control dampers are introduced into the structure.

Before you install the chimney through the wall, you should make sure that the angle of its supply to the wall is exactly 90 degrees (a pre-prepared square can be used for this purpose). At the same time, it will be necessary to take the dimensions of all blanks and mark the place where the pipe exits through the wall, which specifies the location and diameter of the hole for it.

All further operations are carried out in the following sequence:

First, in accordance with the markup, a round hole is made in the wooden wall corresponding to the diameter of the selected pipe blank (with a small margin for insulation).
Then a horizontal section of the outlet is laid through it, going directly from the heater.
A layer of thermal insulation is mounted on top of the outlet blank, which is optimally suited for these conditions, and the hole itself is closed from the inside with a special protective casing.

Important
The passage of a sandwich pipe through the wall is also subject to mandatory thermal insulation.

isoliacia-vihoda-1

A vertical part of the outlet channel is attached to the laid horizontal pipe at an angle of 90 degrees from the outside, the tees of which are fixed with support brackets, and the joints are fixed with clamps.
A condensing tank is mounted on the lower side of the tee, and the main outlet channel is fixed on the wall using the same clamps and brackets located at a distance of no more than 60 cm from one another.

Experts also advise to organize the insulation of the pipes being laid from the outer surface of the walls of the building (by means of basalt mineral insulation, for example). This technique is usually used when laying chimneys in buildings made of wood materials.

In conclusion, we note that users often ask this question: how to get the pipe out of the bath through the wall and are there any special requirements for this procedure?

The answer to this question is quite simple. In the conditions of the bath, the chimney outlet is equipped in exactly the same way, however, in this case, increased requirements are imposed on its insulation, namely:

the opening for the outlet channel is protected by special non-combustible materials (fire-retardant fabric, for example);
in addition, this section of the wall is upholstered with metal sheets that protect the wood material from excessive overheating and ignition.

All other actions for laying a chimney in a bath are similar to the operations already described earlier.

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How to choose the right chimney and install it yourself. How to bring the pipe from the stove through the wall Passing the chimney through a brick wall

Functionality and design features

Advantages and disadvantages

Basic installation steps

Features of working with wooden walls

Chimney installation

Methods for making chimneys

Ceramic chimneys

Metal chimneys

Pipe insulation

overlap

Roof

Which chimney is suitable for a wooden building?

Where to mount: inside or outside?

Basic norms and rules of installation

Stages of installation of a brick chimney

Steps for installing a stainless steel chimney

Stages of installation of a ceramic chimney

Installation of a chimney in a wooden house (video)

Rules for passing through the ceiling

Installation of a sandwich chimney through the wall

Organization of the node through the walls of the house or bath

Ceramic chimneys

Benefits of external hosting

wooden wall

How to make a chimney through a wall

Chimney on the outer wall - the main elements

Choice of chimney type

brick chimneys

Ceramic chimneys

Metal chimneys

Advantages and disadvantages

How to install a chimney through the roof

Material selection

Design features

External chimney, choose the method, prepare the elements

Pros and cons of installing an external chimney

Functionality and design features

Chimney selection

Basic rules for installing chimneys

Materials and tools for self-assembly of an external chimney

The main elements of the external chimney

Basic installation steps

Fire protection first

Types of chimneys and their features

Brick chimney in a wooden house

The passage of the chimney through the wooden ceiling

Connecting chimneys to wooden walls

The passage of the chimney through the roof of a wooden house

The location of the chimney on the roof of a wooden building

Chimney assembly and its output through the wall

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