How to make a hook for a chandelier with your own hands. How to hang a chandelier with your own hands: types of fasteners and installation tools

It would seem that it can be difficult to hang a chandelier from the ceiling? From distant childhood, I recall a metal hook sticking out in the middle of the ceiling, and wires with remnants of electrical tape. All the lamps were of the same type, and fixing them was quite simple: hang them on a hook and connect the wires with a twist. However, with today's variety of lighting fixtures, everything has become a little more complicated - the design and method of attachment can vary greatly. All ways to securely fasten the chandelier to concrete ceiling described in this article.

Chandeliers and lamps: types of fixtures

The design of modern lamps can be different, from a tight-fitting ceiling to a multi-track chandelier on a long rod. At the same time, their weight, as well as the load on the ceiling, also differ.

The most common mounting methods:

• a hook fixed in the ceiling and a suspension on the lamp;
• bent mounting plate metal strip with two holes for mounting to the ceiling and fixed screws or studs for mounting the ceiling;
• cruciform mounting plate - it differs in the number of attachment points and is suitable for massive lamps.

You usually don’t have to choose the mounting method - it depends on the purchased chandelier and is specified in the data sheet for the device. But the correct and reliable fastening of the lamp depends on you.

Wiring: how not to get tangled in wires

Old houses cannot boast of modern color-coded wiring. From hole to ceiling plate usually two or three wires stick out in the same, battered insulation. If the wiring is new and laid in compliance with the requirements of the PUE, then individual cores Cables have a different color, by which you can easily determine their purpose.

Main PUE requirements to the electrical wiring of residential buildings. Download file.

Old-style chandeliers and inexpensive modern fixtures can have wires of the same color, which will also have to ring for correct connection. AT modern chandeliers this rule is more often observed, and all outgoing wires in color marking are assembled on the block, in addition, the connection is described in detail in the passport.

Color coding of wires is carried out according to certain rules and can be easily determined from the table.

Table. Wire marking according to the color of the insulation.

Before starting work on fixing the chandelier, you need to determine the purpose of all wires both in the wiring and in the lamp. If both the wiring and the chandelier are new, then the connection will not be difficult, it is enough to connect conductors with the same marking on the block.

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If you cannot determine the purpose of the wires by their color, you will have to do this with the help of devices. It is not difficult to do this, the main thing is to observe safety measures and strictly follow the instructions.

Wiring phasing

To recognize wires that do not have color markings, you will need phase indicator- a device showing the presence of a phase at the ends of the wire. In appearance, it looks like a screwdriver and consists of several parts: a body made of insulating material, a conductive metal tip, a signal LED or electronic display, and a metal terminal on the end of the device or a button.

The presence of voltage using the indicator is determined as follows: the device is clamped between the thumb and middle fingers right hand, and the index is placed on a metal terminal. The sting touches all the wires in turn; when a phase wire is touched, on which there is voltage, the LED lights up or an icon appears on the electronic display.

Important! Checking the presence of voltage and searching for a phase with an indicator is carried out with one hand! It is forbidden to touch the insulation of the wire or indicator with the other hand at this time! In the event of a breakdown of insulation, damage is possible electric shock, and when passing it along the "hand-hand" path, a sudden contraction of the heart may occur.

Step 1. The first step is to de-energize the room, usually for this it is enough to turn off the machine in the shield or unscrew the plugs. The chandelier switch is also turned off. They remove the old lamp or lamp, if they were removed earlier, and the ends are insulated - they are freed from electrical tape. Using the indicator, one by one check the absence of a phase on all wires. If necessary, the insulation is cleaned, freeing about 1 cm of the metal core. All wires are spread apart so that they do not touch each other.

Step 2 Turn on the machine or screw in the plugs. Turn on the light switch. The indicator touches the bare part of the cores, determining the phase and neutral wires. For convenience, the neutral conductor is marked with a marker, electrical tape, or simply bent.

If three wires come out of the ceiling, and a two-gang switch, act in the following sequence: first turn on both keys and find the neutral and two phase wires, mark them. They turn off one key and check that the phase has disappeared on one wire. Then they turn off the other key and make sure that the voltage has also disappeared on the second wire. In this case, you can connect the chandelier in a two-stage scheme.

In the absence of an indicator, you can determine the neutral and phase wires using a multimeter by switching it to AC voltage measurement mode.

Step 3 Determine the place where the wires pass in ceiling. They do this in order not to accidentally damage the wiring when attaching the chandelier mounting plate. Only an electronic indicator is suitable for non-contact phase detection. It is clamped in the hand and, with the switch on, is carried out at a small distance from the ceiling in the place where it is planned to fix the bar.

When passing by the phase wire, the indicator shows the phase icon on the display. The device is driven back and forth several times, marking the boundaries where it finds the phase. This determines the direction of the cable and finds out the place where it is impossible to drill. Turn off the switch and the machine in the shield. You can proceed to further preparation.

If the wires leading to the terminal are of the same color or their marking does not meet the standard, it is better to ring them for the correct connection of the chandelier. This can be done using a conventional multimeter, included in the continuity mode. Before the start of the ringing, the light bulbs are unscrewed from the lamp.

Step 1. If the body of the chandelier contains conductive metal elements, and there are three or more wires, one of them can be grounding. They find it out like this: put one probe of the device on the conductive part of the case, the second one sequentially touches the bare ends of the wires or the contacts of the connecting block. The appearance of a sound means that the ground wire has been found.

Step 2 The neutral wire is determined as follows: put one of the tester probes on the side contact of any chandelier cartridge. Successively touch the unmarked wires until a sound appears. Mark the neutral wire. The remaining wires are phase.

Step 3 In a multi-track chandelier with two lighting stages, one or more cartridges are connected to each phase wire. If you need to determine them, for example, in order to correlate with the desired key on the switch, then proceed as follows: the probe of the device is attached to one of the phase wires and sequentially touches the central contacts on the bottom of the cartridges. The sound signal determines the cartridges connected to this wire. Do the same with the other phase wire.

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Spotlights

If the lamp has several stages of illumination, and there is one phase wire in the wiring, all cartridges must be connected to it. To do this, the phase wires coming out of the chandelier must be combined into a twist or with a jumper on the block. After preparing the wiring and the chandelier, you can begin to fix it on the ceiling.

Step-by-step instructions for attaching a chandelier to a concrete ceiling

Before installing the chandelier, you need to finish the fine finishing of the ceiling. If the hole in the ceiling from which the wires come out is larger than the decorative bowl of the chandelier, it must be sealed with putty on plaster base, clean and paint in the color of the main finish.

Required fixtures and tools:

• a stable stepladder or stool;
• indicator and multimeter;
• wiring tools: screwdrivers, pliers with insulated handles;
• mounting knife or wire stripper;
• drill or perforator;
• fasteners: dowels and hooks or screws, anchors;
• a hammer;
• electrical tape, terminals or PPE-type caps.

If the length of the wires coming out of the wall does not allow them to be fixed in the luminaire terminals without tension, the wires must be extended using a piece of cable or installation wire.

Note! Copper and aluminum wires must not be twisted together! They will quickly begin to corrode and become covered with a green coating, due to which the contact will deteriorate. Constant heating can lead to melting of the insulation, and then to a short circuit. Connect copper and aluminum wires only using a terminal block.

Heavy lamps or chandeliers on a long rod are attached to the hook. They have a special loop for hanging on a hook, which is subsequently closed with a decorative glass or bowl. The hook may already be present on your ceiling, but sometimes you have to install it yourself.

The process of hanging a chandelier is quite simple, but the hook attachment is worth considering in more detail. For light chandeliers weighing no more than 5 kg, you can use a regular hook paired with a plastic dowel. For heavy fixtures, it is better to use hooks on anchors - the latter are firmly fixed in concrete and are able to withstand heavy loads. The hook must be tried on to the decorative bowl - it must fully enter into it together with the connecting block.

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ceiling lights

Step 1. Work is carried out with the switch turned off, the machine and the plugs unscrewed. Choose a place to attach the hook. It is important to ensure that wires do not pass through the thickness of the concrete - if they are damaged, you will have to completely shift the wiring. How to do this is described above.

Step 2 The place for attaching the hook is marked with a marker or construction pencil. It should be close to the wires, and both the hook and the wiring should be completely covered by the decorative bowl of the chandelier.

Step 3 Drill a hole in the ceiling of the desired diameter and depth using a drill or puncher. Insert the dowel or drive in the anchor until it stops, after which the hook is twisted.

Note! So that when drilling, concrete chips do not fly into the eyes, and the ceiling does not get dirty with dust, you can put a cardboard glass or half a tennis ball on the drill.

Step 4 Breakable parts and light bulbs are removed from the chandelier to avoid breakage. They hang it on a ready-made or fixed hook and connect the wires to the block. In the absence of the latter, a twist connection or PPE caps is allowed. Unused ground wires must be insulated.

Step 5 Carefully lay the wires inside the decorative bowl and fix it so that the gap between its edges and the ceiling is minimal. A rubber/plastic seal or a small screw is usually used to secure the bowl to the stem.

Step 6 Screw in the light bulbs and put on the shades. They turn on the machine in the shield and the switch in the room to check the performance of the chandelier.

Mounting on a mounting plate or bracket is used for most fixtures adjacent to the ceiling, as well as for some chandeliers on the rod. The installation of such a lamp consists of two stages: fixing the bar and installing the chandelier or ceiling lamp on it. As with the hook, you need to turn off the electricity in the apartment.

If the chandelier is attached to the place where the hook is already fixed, then it must be unscrewed, and if it is impossible to bend or cut it off. The hole from the hook is covered with putty.

Step 1. They disassemble the lamp and twist the mounting plate from it, as well as remove fragile elements and unscrew the light bulbs. The screws on the mounting plate, intended for fixing the ceiling, are tightly tightened onto the locknuts, otherwise it will be difficult to fix the lamp itself later.

Step 2 Attach the bar to the ceiling and mark the attachment points with a marker. It is important that they are located away from the cable laid in the ceiling. The ceiling is drilled with a perforator or impact drill to the desired depth, inserted into the dowel holes. Attach the bar to the ceiling and fix it with screws.

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chandelier led

Note! Dowels can be additionally fixed with glue on cement base. For this in drilled hole a small amount of mixed glue is introduced, after which the dowels are inserted and the bar is fixed.

Step 3 Attach the ceiling or luminaire to the mounting plate using the screws installed on it. To do this, combine the holes with the screws, put on the lamp and fix the nuts for several turns.

Step 4 Connect the wires coming out of the ceiling to the lamp block, after which the nuts are fully tightened and the chandelier is fixed. If the screws are short and do not allow you to connect the wires while hanging the lamp, you will need an assistant to hold it until it is fastened. You can also use a strong nylon cord, on which the lamp is temporarily suspended from the mounting plate.

Step 5 They put on the shades and screw in the light bulbs, after which they check the operability of the lamp using the switch.

A chandelier with a cruciform mounting plate is attached in the same way, only there are not two, but four places for attaching to the ceiling, and in the case of a massive lamp there can be eight.

Fixing a chandelier to a concrete ceiling is not difficult, and it is important to follow the rules of electrical safety. If you are not confident in your electrical installation skills, do not take risks, entrust the connection to a professional, as improper installation can damage the lamp or wires.

This also applies to complex chandeliers with multi-stage switching and complex logic. As a rule, an unprofessional connection will void the warranty on the device, and if the chandelier fails, you will have to repair the chandelier at your own expense.

To better understand the intricacies of connecting a chandelier, we recommend watching the video.

Video - How to hang and connect a chandelier to a concrete ceiling

After reading the title of the article, surely someone will definitely say - “why about e so-and-so write, with such work any landlord himself will be able to cope. Yes, of course, the installation and connection of a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in an apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if they are incorrect installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting fixture is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems related to how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the mains and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

Find out useful information from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting fixture, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, at the same time, one should not forget about some other aspects of the choice.

• The total luminous power of the chandelier should correspond to the size and type of the room for which it is intended. There are certain illumination standards, which can be summarized as follows:

— For rooms where soft, diffused, subdued light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), one should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W / m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bathroom, bathroom) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (study or nursery) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W / m².

- For rooms with bright illumination (living room), this indicator is taken equal to 20 W / m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting fixture with the required number of horns should be selected. An important nuance - in no case should you raise the overall illuminationusing more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of the ceiling lamps, cartridges, the cross section of the internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even to a fire hazard.

• The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, conversely, too small will simply get lost on the plane of the ceiling of a vast hall. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

- The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D- chandelier diameter in centimeters

L and S- the length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room with dimensions of 5 × 3 m the best option there will be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

• The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. Hanging option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
• Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
• Chandeliers are most often sold unassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching of threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
• Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality goods and outright fakes for well-known brands. On such products, cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures, can be installed. They will issue a counterfeit poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisting of wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out wire switching, their desoldering and insulation in accordance with all the rules. In particular, this applies to "fancy" chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, devices remote control etc . In order not to take on these extra chores, it is better to choose a product with a really high-quality cable and electrical "stuffing", demand assembly and testing of the product in the store.

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Chandeliers and ceiling lights

We deal with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

We will not consider in this article complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions from the field of home wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out on two wires - phase and zero. If a ground loop is provided in the house (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often this issue is foreseen in new buildings), then a third wire connected to the ground bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking of wires of a single-phase electrical network:

A characteristic nuance is if the neutral wire always has a blue or blue color, and the grounding contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire may vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting fixtures, to switch different modes their work:

Ideally, both the chandelier and the house wiring should use this color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single color insulation. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

Particular attention should be paid to safety measures when working with electrical wiring. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with bare hands, unless the general nutrition networks. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work under the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable foundation - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes the best option there will be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the easiest option is a cable with two wires coming out of the hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. By existing rules zero should go directly to the junction box, and phase should be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “did not bother” with these issues.

• To check, you must have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often, it is made in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent case, although modern models may have other designs, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
• First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment on the switchboard. This is necessary in order to thoroughly clean the wires from insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are bred to the sides as much as possible to prevent their short circuit. After that, turn on the machine on the shield.
• Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked in sequence. None should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, then the wiring in the house is not done correctly - on the switch, apparently, “zero” is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - it should just be borne in mind, exercising special care in further work.

• The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling holes should be like the appropriate amount phase wires. The check is carried out in the same way as described above, with the marking of each phase separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - just to eliminate the errors of the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

• The easiest way is when the chandelier is one- or two-three-horn, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - zero and phase. If there is a ground wire, then it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

• In the case when it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue "zero" wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often, this can be seen quite clearly on chandeliers, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

• In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

• It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the device of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, here you can figure it out by ringing all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the cartridges (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and empirically find out which horn is powered from which wire. After that, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

For "call" hidden wires you need a multitester

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of a circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all cartridges, but in practice it is still probably easier to just ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and stationary wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and a group of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: wiring diagram for a five-arm chandelier to a two-gang switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything became clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of work depends on the design of the chandelier, and on the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of mounting chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-storey buildings, hanging hooks were installed in the ceiling holes at the construction stage. If it is worth it, then the problem is less, however, it does not hurt to check it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load is easily maintained, then there should not be any special concerns.

But what if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? No problem, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw is easily screwed in there.

With a concrete floor slab, there can be various solutions:

— You can hang a hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the plate. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the wiring passing there with the rod.

- Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a “butterfly” lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with a spring retainer - "butterfly"

- If this option is not possible, for example, in the case when there is no "regular" opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is still better - for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it is useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If the internal cavity of the plate is caught during drilling, a special metal dowel for hollow structures - with screwing it in, a “skirt” is formed that securely holds the fastener in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. Recommend after that the speaker metal part insulate by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting it on heat shrink tube appropriate diameter, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier for a regular mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply of the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected by terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks can occur on them with melting of the insulation. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram, about which it was written above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually closed with a decorative glass (cap).

After the installation is completed, turn on the power supply on the panel, then on the switch, in order to immediately make sure that there is no short circuits. It does not hurt to check the absence of a phase on the indicator metal case chandeliers. If everything is fine, then when the switch keys are turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed or inserted into the cartridge and the practical functionality of all chandelier horns is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can proceed to the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many produced chandeliers, especially designed for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting plate fixed to the ceiling. This greatly improves the reliability general installation, since the load is evenly distributed over several attachment points.

The design of the mounting plate can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The bar can be straight or curved, with brackets for fixing the body of the lighting fixture, or with protruding studs or screws.

Particularly heavy chandeliers can be supplied with cruciform planks or in the form of a reinforced I-profile.

The bar may have a hole with the edges covered with an insulating sleeve for the passage of wires coming out of the ceiling. You can place the bar in the immediate vicinity of the cable outlet - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring.

The mounting plate is fixed to the ceiling plane different ways depending on specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference being that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a clamping head “under hide».

As well as when using a hook, the reliability of fastening under load must be checked.

The mount must be checked under load - in order to prevent such situations

Quite often, a situation occurs when the excessively close location of the dowels from the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure the reliability of installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct executor of the work.

Fastening the chandelier itself to the mounting plate can also have its own characteristics. Perhaps, in this case, help is required - the lamp will have to be held on weight while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the body of the chandelier is attached to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was described above.

Features of fastening the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

By and large, the placement of the chandelier should not be planned even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or more additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting plate or installed a hook, which will then be easy to build up with a chain or rod. In the drywall sheet, a hole is immediately marked and drilled in the right place for the exit of wires and a hook.

But what if this question of hanging a chandelier arose later?

• In the event that the lighting fixture is hanging type, it is impossible to install the hook directly in the GVL - its strength is unlikely to be enough for a point load. You can do it like this:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, a hole is drilled in the floor slab along the anchor fastening with a long drill installed in a puncher.

An anchor with a long threaded stud is inserted and fixed to the limit in the hole made, so that the stud comes out beyond the drywall plane.

An eye nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, to which the chandelier itself will later be hung. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring "butterfly" with a hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - everything same way, just like when working on ordinary ceiling, only fasteners do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it comes out.

• If the chandelier is a console type, that is, it is installed on a mounting plate, then a lot depends on its mass.

- In case when total weight from the lamp does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, you can fix the bar directly to the GVL sheet. For this, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Dowels "butterfly" and "snail" for fixing parts on drywall

The first are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the drywall sheet when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second principle of operation is different - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwing in. The "snail" is screwed in completely, flush with the GVL surface, in the right place, and a hole remains in its center, into which an ordinary self-tapping screw easily enters.

- If the chandelier is heavier, then to fix the mounting plate, you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become mounts for a slatted or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from mounting a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: fixing a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

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Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

None practical advice on self-assembly chandeliers on a heavy ceiling will not be given - this should be done only by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling canvas.

Read detailed information, about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall on the planned height of the stretched canvas. Based on the location of this embedded platform, the craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, reinforcing their edges, through which the wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempts to cut holes on your own in order to hang the chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using methods of working like a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. A deplorable, but logical result of such amateur performances will be the need for a complete replacement of the canvas.

After the “ceiling” masters finish their work, leaving the necessary holes reinforced with special eyelets for the chandelier and fasteners, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care so as not to break or puncture the surface in any case.

On a heavy ceiling, it is preferable to use a pendant one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, " halogens" or fluorescent "housekeepers" are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly spoil the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: an example of mounting a chandelier on a heavy ceiling

Installing a new chandelier in a room is a milestone. Before you hang the chandelier on the ceiling in the apartment, it must be properly assembled. Fortunately, the construction of most chandeliers is not so complicated, so let's move on to the next part of the preparatory work.

Wire connection

Let's start with the most elementary. To get started, answer the questions:

• How many wires come out of the ceiling?
• How many keys are on the switch?

If there are only 2 wires, then forget about the possibility of turning on different parts chandeliers with a two-gang switch. Without installing a third wire, nothing will work. This means that all the wires in the chandelier are assembled into bundles of a certain color. If 3 wires are connected to the lamp, and you need the light to turn on not at the same time, then in the chandelier, the wires going to the thread of the cartridge and the ground wire are collected in one bundle, while the others are divided into 2 groups, and are also twisted into bundles.

Bad contact will not only lead to heating of the wire, but can also cause premature failure of the housekeeper.

To work, you need a simple tool:

1. Pliers.
2. Small screwdriver.
3. Screwdriver-indicator on batteries.
4. Terminal block.
5. open end wrench 12.

The need for a key arises when assembling a chandelier. An indicator screwdriver is required to determine the location of the wire connection. Take it in your hands, and at the moment when you touch the tip of the screwdriver, and its upper part, it should light up - this means that the device is working. Now, holding the top edge of the screwdriver, touch the thread (or side contact) in the chuck with the tip. With your free hand, touch the wires coming out of this cartridge. When you touch one of them, the indicator should light up. Wires of the same color will be "ground".

Insert the separated bundles of wires into the terminal block of your choice, and fasten it securely.

We hang a chandelier

Let's look at two main methods.

1. On the hook.
2. On the mounting plate.

Hook

It used to be the most common method, but is now a thing of the past. Nevertheless, there are still many options for chandeliers with just such a mount.

Some craftsmen solved this problem in their own way - they replaced the plastic hook with a homemade one made from a welding electrode.

Included with the chandelier is a special mounting plate, which must be properly prepared before installing it on the ceiling. Fasten the screws on it with nuts so that their caps are in the inside of the bar, just do not clamp them. Insert the plank from the inside of the bowl into the chandelier as it will be installed later, tightening the decorative nuts until it stops - the bar should be flush with the edges of the chandelier bowl, or slightly below it.

After checking, securely tighten the screws in the bar so that they do not turn, otherwise removing the chandelier can be a big problem. Attach the plank to the ceiling where it will be installed and mark the ceiling through the holes. With the bar removed to the side, drill concrete base ceiling and insert the dowels. After that, a plank is attached to the ceiling, and the chandelier itself is attached to it. If the base of the ceiling is wooden, then the plank is attached to it with wood screws.

Electrical connection

When the switch contacts are open, there should be no voltage on the wires.

This means that when you touch the wires with an indicator screwdriver, it should not glow. In this case, a screwdriver that works without batteries will give a more accurate result. After turning on the power, the indicator should show the presence of voltage on two wires. The remaining one is the "earth", which must be connected to the common beam of the chandelier. If this is not the case in your case, then this means that the switch does not turn off the phase, but the ground. If you have incandescent lamps or LED lamps connected, then you can leave it that way, such a connection is not suitable for housekeepers, as they can blink (this was written above).

In no case do not install housekeepers if the chandelier is connected through a dimmer!

Connecting a chandelier with a power supply

Often people try to increase the brightness of the glow by replacing regular lamps with more powerful ones, as a result of which the chandelier ceases to function.

To prevent the transformer from failing, keep an eye on the total consumption of the lamps - it must be lower than the output power of this device.

If your chandelier is halogen bulbs, then most often they are designed for a 12 V supply. In this case, the power is connected through a step-down transformer, on which the voltage at the outputs is always written. Where the voltage is 220V - we connect to the network, and the contacts with the designation 12V - to the light bulbs.

When connected directly, the bulbs must be rated 220V. Otherwise, halogen lamps designed to work through a transformer will explode, and glass fragments will scatter throughout the room.

All wires must be carefully insulated.

Fixing to concrete ceiling

In order to fix the mounting strip to the concrete ceiling, you need to attach it to the intended mounting location, and make marks on the ceiling where the holes will be drilled. If the cover is made of hollow slabs, then you need to check the thickness of the concrete in the place where the hole will be drilled, as it may happen that the dowel will have nothing to hold on to. You may have to step aside, or position the bar differently. In the event that nothing can be changed, then you can use anchors, or lead into the cavity of the plate wooden lath, and fasten the bar to it with screws. To do this job you will need:

1. Perforator (or impact drill).
2. Pobeditovoe drill, according to the diameter of the dowel.
3. Screwdriver (screwdriver / drill).
4. Dowels (anchors, or screws).

Before you start drilling, make sure that dust and sand do not get into the drill chuck. For this purpose, you can pull a disposable cup, or half rubber ball and then drill.

Depending on the mounting method you choose, secure the bar securely, but don't overdo it, as it can bend if you press too hard.

For plasterboard ceiling

What difficulties can arise when installing a chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling? The point is that it matters how appearance plasterboard ceiling, and the mechanical strength of the installed structures.

It is necessary to decide in advance on the choice of a chandelier, and determine how it will be fixed. Consider the main recommendations:

1. The place on the ceiling, where the heavy chandelier will be located, must be further strengthened with a metal profile. This must be taken care of even in the manufacture of the frame of the ceiling structure.
2. To fix a small chandelier directly to drywall, you need to buy fasteners (folding spring dowels, butterflies). You don't need to amplify anything.

During operation, it is important to observe safety precautions - ensure safe movement under the ceiling and de-energize the electrical system.

If it is impossible to de-energize the room, then you need to work in rubber gloves electrician and use a solid tool (nippers and pliers must be with intact handles).

We fix the chandelier to the plasterboard ceiling

Drywall is durable mechanical properties, and for this reason the installation is carried out directly to the material itself. But this method has limitations.

1. Because drywall sheet can withstand a load of up to 6 kg on square meter, then, given this feature, when buying, preference should be given to chandeliers that have a relatively small weight.
2. It should be borne in mind that deformation of the plasterboard ceiling may occur during the operation of the device, for example, replacing a lamp or if you accidentally hook the chandelier with your hand. Therefore, in order to preserve the attractive appearance of the plasterboard ceiling for a long time, it is not recommended to repeatedly change the chandelier, all the more it is not recommended to make new ones next to the old holes.

First, consider the option of mounting a hanging chandelier. First of all, you need to drill a hole in drywall (under the selected fasteners) and insert a spring dowel or butterfly - in this place the chandelier will be suspended from the ceiling.

The spring dowel must be tightened with a nut, and the butterfly must be tightened with a self-tapping screw (there should be a click). The dowel and butterfly must be equipped with a hairpin or hook. After that, you can hang the chandelier on the hook and connect the wiring.

Holes are made at the marked points, as in the case of a hanging chandelier, but there was a hook, and here we will use butterfly dowels, to which a bar will be attached with screws. Now the most interesting thing - holding the chandelier under the ceiling, you need to connect the wiring, and only after that it will be possible to fix the chandelier.

It is extremely inconvenient to do this work alone, so you need someone who will hold the chandelier until you finish the wiring work. If there is nowhere to wait for help, then make a small hook and hang the chandelier on it for a while so as not to scratch it.

When installing a stretch ceiling, you should take care in advance which chandelier or lamp will be on the ceiling, and which mount for the lighting fixture should be used. This is important to take into account, because the stretched material is not the basis for fastening, and if the integrity of the film is violated, the canvas will simply break.

How to choose the right chandelier

It is important to pay attention to the choice of a chandelier so that it does not spoil the expensive ceiling covering. In this case, you need to consider which lamps will be used. For example, it is better to purchase a chandelier with energy-saving lamps, since they heat up less during operation. If halogen or incandescent lamps are used, then they should be hidden in the ceiling and not directed at the ceiling, but to the side.

If you purchased a chandelier with cartridges for conventional incandescent lamps, then it is better to screw in housekeepers or LED bulbs instead. It is important to know that if the chandeliers are overhead with a thin metal base, then adjoining the stretch ceiling in a heated state from incandescent lamps can lead to its deformation.

You also need to make sure that the base of the lighting fixture, which covers the fastener, does not have sharp edges and will not tear the film.

Fasten to stretch ceiling

The most common and reliable way Mounting is a fastening with a hook. But this method is only suitable for hanging chandeliers.

• if the base is stretch ceiling – reinforced concrete slabs, and the hook has already been installed by the builders, then it is necessary to determine whether it is installed at a sufficient height;
• if the location of the hook may not suit you, then using a dowel or anchor, you can install the hook yourself by cutting off the old fasteners with a grinder;
• another way - in the place where there will be a hole for installation in the stretch ceiling, a wooden mortgage is installed, and a hook is attached directly to it.

You need to know how far the stretch ceiling will be from the main ceiling, and also bring the ends of the electrical wire to the installation site.

After the fabric of the stretch ceiling is stretched, where the hook is located, you need to glue a thermal ring, inside which a hole is cut out for the output of wires, and then the chandelier is fastened. This happens in this way: the chandelier must be hung on a hook, the wires connected, and the attachment point covered with a cap of the lighting fixture.

The chandelier can be mounted on a bar or mounting plate.

Most lighting fixtures come with special fasteners - metallic profile with screws (fixing plate, which was mentioned earlier). It is attached to the main ceiling, and the chandelier is fixed on top of the stretch ceiling with screws using decorative nuts.

Another fastening of the chandelier to the stretch ceiling involves the installation of a wooden bar to the main ceiling, the length of which should not reach the stretch ceiling by almost 1-2 cm. Otherwise, the bar will protrude and over time may break the stretch ceiling film. Next, the bar should be attached to the ceiling using self-tapping screws with dowels. And when using a wooden block, it is also necessary to make a hole, reinforcing it with a thermal ring.

The mounting plate is attached to the bar without going beyond the hole. Then the base of the lighting device is attached to the plate. Further, the holes of the base must be connected with studs (or screws) and screwed with nuts.

In some cases, instead of a wooden block, thick moisture-resistant plywood with attached metal legs is used as a base.

Video: installation of a chandelier on a stretch ceiling

Fixing a chandelier to a cross bar

This type of fastening is intended mainly for heavy chandeliers with a wide base. Due to the fact that the mounting holes are far from each other, it will not be possible to fix the chandelier within the hole. To do this, it is again attached to the main ceiling as a base. wooden block to the size of the cross. It is necessary to carefully cut out five holes in the stretch ceiling canvas and reinforce them with thermal rings: one large hole to bring out the electrical wires and connect the power, and the other four are smaller. Instead of thermal rings of small diameter, where self-tapping screws are screwed in, you can use pieces of plastic that are glued to a stretch ceiling. This procedure must be done, otherwise the film will tear where the hole is made.

When the wires are connected, you can hang the chandelier on the crosspiece and fix it with nuts.

Video: installing a chandelier on cruciform planks

A photo

A chandelier is not just an ordinary lighting device, which is an attribute of any interior. It also serves as an additional decorative element. Fashion does not stand still, in order to please it, it is often necessary to change the chandelier when repairing or changing the situation. However, it is not necessary to resort to the help of outsiders, you can hang the lamp from the ceiling yourself, the main thing is to follow the algorithm of work.
And even if you never happen to fix the lamp to the ceiling yourself, it will not be superfluous to at least just know how to do it right in order to be able to control the work of employees. Therefore, let's figure out how to hang a chandelier so that it is reliable and safe.

Basics

Initially, the installation of the chandelier begins with an inspection of the existing mounting system.
According to the type of fastening, three methods of suspension are distinguished - they are used most often (meaning specifically for chandeliers).

• fastening on powerful hooks built into the ceiling.
• suspension bracket.
• platform mounting

Attachment installation

The first option is most suitable for massive lamps that have a leg or are hung on a chain (or wires) different lengths. The hook is able to withstand constant, significant loads. It used to be always built in by default - even at the stage of laying floor slabs. Today, builders do not always do this.
Modern models of lamps are usually made of lightweight materials, and it is not at all necessary to make powerful fasteners for them. In addition, usually the hook is located clearly in the center of the room, and designers often shift the visual center or zone the space with the help of lighting. And then what to do with the ugly hook tightly built into the ceiling?
Therefore, in the buildings of the new model, the new settlers, at their discretion, plan the location of the chandelier, shifting it in the right direction. For hanging the luminaire, a simple and reliable mounting plate is used (shown in the second photo), which successfully copes with light loads. This mounting option allows the use of flat lamp models, which, as planned, should fit snugly against the ceiling. Such systems can be mounted on suspended ceiling structures.
The latter type is used on hollow stretch and plasterboard ceilings. By themselves, these materials are not strong and stable, so the holder (in the form of a wooden block, for example) is attached directly to the concrete floor. And then a lamp is hung to it, flush with the hanging surface.
Holder profiles must be strictly parallel so that there is no increased load on any one side. The only exception is a significant difference in the planes of the ceiling, when you need to level the platform using hangers of different heights.

Work safety

During operation, you need to remember three main rules: adhere to the basics of safety, observe the polarity when connecting wires and use a reliable mount. These prescriptions, like three whales, must be strictly observed.
In addition, in order to correctly (and without health consequences) install a ceiling lamp, remember the recommendations below.

The most important thing is to ensure absolute safety of work. This means that it is necessary to replace the lamp during the day in order to be able to completely de-energize the apartment throughout the entire installation period.

Even if the circuit is de-energized, be sure to check it with a special tester screwdriver with a built-in light bulb. Sometimes the residual voltage can hit very hard.

Always de-energize and test the lighting circuit when hanging fixtures from the ceiling. Mounting chandeliers is work at height, so even a slight electric shock is enough to cause a more serious injury when falling from a stepladder.

New chandelier and old wiring

You need to be especially careful if your wiring is old and made of aluminum wire. Ideally, it should be completely replaced by copper, with a large cross section. This is absolutely justified, since much lower rated loads were previously laid on the chain. Therefore, it would be correct to expand it throughput. If it is not possible to change the wiring, then protect yourself as much as possible by following our recommendations.
Remember - in no case do not directly connect the copper wires of the chandelier with a thick aluminum wiring cable. In close contact, both substances react, and as a result of corrosion, there is a real threat of a short circuit, and, as a result, a fire.
Therefore, put insulating solder on the copper wires, and only then screw them to the aluminum ones. In this way, all three wires are processed, to be sure, additionally solder all the joints (especially if the chandelier is installed in wet rooms, such as a bathroom). And it is better to use special clamping terminals that provide a safe and reliable connection. Models of their mass and the cost is very small.
Do not be lazy to make grounding, both for the lamp itself and for the switch. This will minimize the risk of electric shock if the neighbors suddenly flood you.

We will analyze the features of installation in rooms with different starting conditions in order to perform the installation correctly. We give three main types of ceilings: concrete, stretch and plasterboard.

concrete ceilings

chandelier hook

The most common option for attaching chandeliers to concrete surfaces is conventional hooks. If you don’t have a hook, or after a long time it has become unreliable, it’s better to play it safe and change it, strengthening the structure properly.
To do this, you will have to re-embroider the seams between the plates, going a little to the sides. A strong metal plate (or pin) is inserted into the resulting opening - it is much easier to do this if the floors are hollow. For damp rooms, it will not be superfluous to treat the plate with any enamel paint, then it will be less susceptible to corrosion.

Then the hook itself clings to the plate. The result is a reliable system that can withstand heavy loads.
A solid concrete base allows you to use the other two methods of fastening, if suddenly there is a need for this.

Stretch ceiling

Many inexperienced craftsmen often have a question - how to hang a chandelier on a stretch surface (canvas or PVC film)?
In fact, if you have a stretch ceiling installed in your room, you can mount the chandelier in the manner described above. With the only amendment that you need to hang the lamp away from the canvas, so that the heated lamps do not touch the flasks to its surface. However, most often installers resort to the third type of fastening - with the build-up of the platform.
In order to attach the chandelier at the same level with the canvas, you will need to make a solid frame. It can be a simple wooden block, set flush with the film surface. A mounting plate is screwed onto it with self-tapping screws. The fastening of all elements of the base must be rigid so that the vibrations of the tension film do not cause the luminaire to chatter.

Chandelier fixture

In addition, special spacers are installed on both sides of the stretch film, which reinforce the perforation site. They do not allow the web to stretch under its own weight, and also act as a thermal insulating layer that protects the web from heat. They look like rings. The one that needs to be fixed from the outside is usually transparent, and it is not at all visible behind the decorative overlay of the chandelier.

Stretch ceiling preparation

The wires must also be well insulated at the junctions. And it is better to use special clamping terminals that connect and seal the joints with high quality.

Plasterboard ceilings

You can attach a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling using the same technology as on a stretch ceiling. The second type of fastening is also used - if you plan to install a heavy chandelier. Then a bar of a suitable size is used. It is attached to the ceiling with a special collet stud. It allows you to significantly enhance the potential of the design.

Drywall fastener

A mounting plate is screwed to the base, and almost any chandelier can already be safely attached to it.

Low ceilings and other nuances

Usually than more room, topics large sizes pendant lamps can be installed. And they weigh a lot, and in fact they pose a real danger to residents - in the event of an unforeseen break in the fasteners and a fall.
Depending on the type of chandeliers, there are some features of fastening. For example, traditional hooks are not suitable for hanging flat luminaire models that do not have a rod. Therefore if you have low ceilings, and you want to smooth out this drawback with a flat lamp, you will have to redo the mounting base. Change the massive hook to a flat bar. If the chandelier is small and light, it is enough to mount it on aluminum ceiling hangers.
A massive and heavy chandelier should definitely be hung on a thick steel hook, deeply “embedded” in the ceiling. Today you can buy a special, very convenient and practical hook. It is equipped with spacer bars that open during installation - like butterfly wings, and do not allow the mount to hang out and fall out.
After installing such a hook, the hole surrounding it must be primed and cemented. Wait at least a day for the mixture to set. As a result, such a mount will be able to withstand even a heavy chandelier.

Chandelier fixture

Please note that the wiring is not attached to the hook. A special chandelier holder is hung on it, and the cables are freely, without tension, located next to or around.

Scheme

Another important point in installing a ceiling light is to connect the wires correctly. Typically, lighting systems use three wires: phase, ground and zero.
It’s great if they differ in the color of the insulation - then you don’t have to guess which one is which.
The “phase” has brown (or black) insulation, grounding can be identified by the yellow braid, and “zero”, as a rule, is blue. In high-quality models of chandeliers, the wires are always marked different colors so that there is no need to “ring out” where the phase is, where is zero. Then your task is to connect the wiring to the cables of the lamp - by color.
If all three cables look the same, you will have to empirically determine where the “phase” is located. It can be identified by bringing an indicator screwdriver in turn to each wire. When the light comes on, this cable is the “phase”. Although this popular method is far from safe, it is better to use a special tester. To avoid confusion, mark the cables with a multi-colored marker or electrical tape.

When it is planned to install a luminaire with the simplest control, a single-gang switch is enough. The assembly diagram of the lighting circuit is as follows:

Single switch

If you want to be able to turn on each lamp individually (or all together) - put a two-gang switch. Then the connection diagram will look like this (for example, a chandelier with three light bulbs is taken).

double switch

By analogy, a three-button switch is installed.
Before twisting (or terminal connection), strip 3-4 cm of wire from insulation. Do this carefully so as not to damage individual wires. It is better to use a special tool for stripping insulation.
Now you can connect the lamp, it will be correct to first connect the “zero”, and then the “phase”. If you have three wires in the circuit (that is, an additional ground is laid) - then the corresponding cables with yellow insulation are also simply connected in pairs.

Fixing a chandelier to the ceiling

When buying a new chandelier, the question of its correct and reliable fastening to the ceiling surface, as well as a safe and correct connection to the home's electrical network, becomes relevant. You can do this without outside help, so arm yourself with the necessary installation tool, read our instructions and proceed with the installation.

In this article we will talk how to fix the chandelier to the ceiling with your own hands.

Fixing the chandelier with a mounting plate

As a rule, chandeliers are of two types:

• Equipped with mounting bracket. The bar is mounted on the ceiling, and then the chandelier is attached directly to it.
• Mounted on a ceiling hook screwed securely into the ceiling. We will try to cover in more detail how to attach a chandelier to a ceiling surface using each of these methods.

Advice! Before mounting the chandelier to the ceiling, remove the shades and other decorative elements of the chandelier. This will protect them from accidental damage, reduce the weight of the chandelier and make installation more convenient.

Mounting the mounting plate

fasteners ceiling chandelier begins with mounting the mounting plate to the surface:

1. To begin with, try on the chandelier to the place where its future fasteners are supposed. The decorative element of the chandelier, covering the place of attachment and wires, must fit snugly, without gaps and play, against the ceiling.
2. If there is a hook from an old lamp at the installation site, it is bent to the ceiling so that it does not interfere. Cutting off the old hook is not recommended, because your next chandelier may be attached with it, and you will need to re-mount this type of fastener, which is impractical.
3. Perform markings for fastening the mounting plate and install fasteners for the chandelier on the surface. To do this, the bar is applied to the ceiling in such a way that it does not interfere with the wiring connection, and with a pencil mark the place of attachment. Next, holes are drilled and dowels are driven into them. Then fasten the bar to the ceiling using screws.(read on).

Wiring connection

Before attaching the chandelier to the ceiling surface, it is necessary to connect the power wires provided in it to the power system of the house. Before connecting the chandelier, it is imperative to de-energize the home wiring and make sure that there is no voltage using the indicator.

The rules for connecting a chandelier to the mains are as follows:

• In the presence of a single-gang switch, the ceiling wiring under the chandelier usually consists of two or three wires - phase, zero, and optionally a ground wire. The presence of a ground wire often depends on the time the house was built - in Soviet time such a wire was provided extremely rarely.
• It is necessary to determine the purpose of each wire, both among the ceiling and among those available in the chandelier. The phase wire is usually hidden in black, brown or red insulation, the neutral wire is in blue, and the ground wire is in yellow-green.

• Regardless of the presence of colored or other markings on the wires in the ceiling, they should be tested with an indicator screwdriver. To do this, you need to turn on the power supply for a while. You should alternately touch the bare part of the wires and fix the indicator indicator. The lit indicator will point to the phase wire, if the indicator does not light up, then the wire is zero.

Advice! Do not forget to press the light on switch on the switch before checking the wires with an indicator.

• Wires of the same type are connected through the terminals, and if there is a “no pair” wire (grounding), it is isolated and pushed aside. After that, you can continue to further mount the chandelier to the ceiling.
• A two-gang switch assumes the presence of two-phase wires in the ceiling (see). Their connection is carried out, respectively, to the phase wires of the chandelier of the 1st and 2nd groups (if any). Zero and ground wire are connected in the same way as in the first case.

Fixing the chandelier to the mounting plate

You can do this in the following way:

1. Closing decorative element chandeliers are attached to the bar and their connecting holes are compared.
2. Screw decorative nuts into the holes, thereby attaching the lighting fixture to the ceiling completely.
3. Mount lamps, shades and other decorative elements in their original place.

Fixing the chandelier to the ceiling surface in this way can be considered finished.

Fixing a chandelier with a ceiling hook

Such a fixture for a ceiling chandelier, like a hook, is often installed at the stage of building a house, and if you have one, you should check it for strength. Checking the hook is to try to tear it off. To do this, you can pull or hang a load for it, comparable in mass or exceeding the weight of the chandelier, and let it hang for a while.

If the hook is fixed "tightly", you can mount the chandelier to the concrete ceiling.

If it fell out or is simply not provided for on the ceiling, you will need to mount it yourself:

1. Drill a hole under it.
2. Prepare and screw a metal anchor into the hole. It must be selected with such a diameter that it fits snugly against the walls of the hole during the screwing process.
3. For installation in a wooden ceiling, you can use a self-tapping hook.
4. When mounting the chandelier on a plasterboard ceiling, the hook must be attached to the ceiling. Distance between main and plasterboard ceiling overcome by means of a canopy on the hook of the chain, equal to the length of the gap between the ceilings. It is to the chain that the ceiling chandelier is attached later.

Advice! The metal hook must be carefully insulated for safety reasons.

We can assume that we figured out how the chandeliers are fastened various types. We hope that our instructions turned out to be understandable, and with an eye on it, you will be able to install the chandelier with your own hands without any problems.

For those who have not fully understood all the intricacies of the installation process, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video presented on our portal - how to fix the chandelier to the ceiling.