I moved to India at the beginning of 2010 and have been living here to this day. Of course, you have to periodically come to Russia because of the limited time of stay on a visa. At first, a visa was issued for one year, but now, for some reason, it is issued only for eight months. Let me tell you more about the beginning of my journey.

Around 2005, I became passionately interested in yoga, and as you know, from yoga to India and its culture is just a couple of steps. About a year after my all-consuming penetration into the culture of India, I met a girl - the same fan of yoga and meditation as I am.

A year later we got married and in December 2010 we left for India together. We had a very small reserve of funds, I would even say, most likely, modest. It was decided to earn a living by freelancing, because jobs with official wages in India are almost impossible to find. In general, after some time of our residence in India, this system began to bear fruit, and now I can say with confidence that this is the absolute truth - in India you can live on $50 a day.

But it's better to start in order. There were a lot of people on the plane on the way here, and what, to say the least, it was packed to capacity. Although such a crowd of people at this time of the year is not at all surprising, because during the Russian winter in India the warmest time, and, consequently, the most touristy. On the plane they were fed with buns and coffee, which was very nice in itself. So, we flew in comfort. At that time I was an ardent supporter of everything Indian, so neither I nor my wife did any vaccinations before departure, and I will tell you that it is completely in vain. But more on that later.

It should also be mentioned that before traveling to India, you should take a large, or better immediately, huge first-aid kit from home. Many medicines familiar to Russian people are simply not available in India, for example, good antibiotics, enterosorbents, no-shpa and citramone.

So we ended up in India. And this country met us ... mmm ... specifically. Arriving immediately in Goa, we went towards the ocean. The time is 6 am, the whole village is sitting on the beach… why do you think? I don’t even know how to put it literally, I’ll probably say this: “all the locals, well, or almost all, sit out of great need right on the ocean. But then I didn’t care at all, I was on top of bliss from the mere thought that I was in India.

Naturally, at first we had to look for housing. I wanted, of course, something completely inexpensive and preferably close to the ocean. And here it is - a house in Bramakan ... It was just a miracle - a 10-minute walk from the sea, behind a mountain, an empty hut, standing alone in the jungle. We found the owner, who lives in the city, he arrived on a moped, gave the key and said - live, do not worry ... so we did ...

Cashew trees whirl intricately, and flowers exude a delicate aroma! Nothing disturbs the peace and gives complete freedom for meditation. Only a lonely silent neighbor passes by a couple of times a day to let an artificial river into his area. The sacred lake was very close to our new home, and the linen with the powder in it is washed at the same time as the ritual washing.

Again, it didn't strike me as odd at the time. Everything is fine, everything is as it should be, I am nirvana. These were the thoughts that lived in my head at the time. I smiled all the time and was absolutely happy. But this did not last long. Literally before the first food poisoning, which occurred a few hours after the first meal in India.

At first, I felt as if piranhas had settled in my stomach. Then, within five days, I had to use all the remedies for diarrhea brought from Russia. An unforgettable sight, I tell you. And this despite the fact that with such total dehydration, it was natural to drink water only from a bottle. I’ll tell you about Indian water right away. Drinking it raw, rinsing your mouth after brushing your teeth, or even just washing your face, I would not advise anyone. All of the above should be done with bottled water. Fortunately, it is sold everywhere, but I want to warn you, be sure to pay attention to the fact that the bottle is tightly closed, and the local seller would not open it, even in front of you. Otherwise, you cannot avoid poisoning. It’s me who is so smart now, but then I was completely not so knowledgeable in such trifles as it seemed to me.

Let me tell you about our hut. As you can see in the photo, this is a structure consisting of walls and a roof, the floor in our house was stone, there was no door. True, there were only jungles around, so it did not cause any inconvenience. Naturally, there were no facilities for a toilet and shower. And if we managed quite simply without the latter, then without a sanitary facility, especially during the period of illness, it was, to put it mildly, uncomfortable. In general, except for the above, we were satisfied with everything. Every day at dawn we chanted mantras, meditated almost constantly, and ate mangoes and coconuts. Speaking of coconuts. These are the only fruits in India that are safe for Russians to eat, especially during the adaptation period.

We lived in such a hut for about three or four weeks, and then went to visit Russian friends and lived with them for a whole month. They spent the winter in India with the whole family. Since they lived with children, it is natural that their living conditions were at their best. Food and water were also radically different from what we had in the first weeks of our stay in India.

There, both my wife and I got stronger and almost completely adapted to life in India, or rather, I would say, it seemed to us at that time. We ate mainly rice, stewed vegetables and flatbread. They only drank boiled water. Fruits, on the advice of new acquaintances, began to be soaked in laundry soap, and before eating they were peeled and poured over with boiling water. There was never any poisoning during the period of residence in the house of the Russian family.

Every morning we started with yoga. Then, after a small breakfast, they usually played the violin or crawled on the Internet. Our new acquaintances even had it at home, there was no need to go to an Internet cafe.

I also want to say to all those who are going to move to India, remember that I only met an ATM there once, and even that did not work, so I advise you to arm yourself with cash. I also want to warn newcomers against theft of local residents. Everyone steals here, and not only people, but also monkeys. And monkeys in India are considered sacred animals, however, as well as cows and snakes. Monkeys are not punished for stealing. If a person is bitten by a snake, then she is put in jail. This is the paradox of India. And by the way, the deceased after being bitten by a poisonous snake is not burned, but simply put on a raft and sent to sail, most often to the Ganges. This is done because it is believed that this person did not die, but simply fell into a very deep sleep. I will tell you that it is an extremely unpleasant sight to see swollen corpses next to a crowd of people bathing or washing clothes. But this is the whole of India, a country of absolute paradoxes. The Ganges River is considered sacred by them, and many pilgrims come to it specifically for ritual bathing. As for me, despite all my then immersion in the world of India, I could not bring myself to put at least one toe into this, to put it mildly, not very clean water. Although this water really disinfects a lot, and there is a completely normal explanation for this - there are huge deposits of silver under the bowels of the water, and it is this that contributes to at least some purification of the local reservoir.

India is a country where children are very much loved. Here they are touched on the cheeks, this is something like our Russian “pat on the head”.

During my entire stay in India, I managed to see little girls running to school barefoot, and already adult students and female students studying right on the ground.

India still never ceases to amaze me. Everything is somehow wrong here, a slow and very measured course of life, the constant laziness of local residents, dirt and feces on every corner, snakes and monkeys, creepy insects and very well-mannered dogs. Yes, they are well-mannered, they never bark and lie very neatly everywhere. Hungry, skinny, but with some kind of proud expression on their faces. I once treated one dog, so he took a piece of cake from me with such an arrogant look, no tail wagging, nothing like that is observed in local dogs.

After staying with Russian friends, my wife and I decided to live closer to the mountains. The beauty there, of course, is indescribable, although no, just completely described, however, not only described, but also ... Further, I think that you guessed what I want to say. This case here is almost everywhere, it happens, and there is nowhere to step. Solid public toilet.

And on the mountain next to the cave is a nunnery. There was a heavy downpour and we asked an old nun to wait it out.

She joyfully signed us in, fed us and put us to bed ... and in general she did everything somehow joyfully, constantly singing mantras and saying nothing more. So we lived in this monastery for some time. I have not been able to learn the names. Drinking water had to be obtained from a closed well through a narrow hole. Although I jumped a little. The difficulty of obtaining water had to be faced somewhat later. In the monastery, they eat right on the floor from some plates that look more like pieces of cardboard.

Everyone is fed here, or maybe it's just that we were so lucky. I couldn't figure this out, and maybe I didn't really try. A smile constantly plays on the faces of the nuns, often toothless, but certainly very joyful and open. Every morning there was a service in the monastery, the nuns sang beautifully and looked at us cheerfully.

I would like to clarify that all the time described above, we lived on money from freelancing and on small financial savings accumulated back in Russia.

After the monastery for some time we rented a room for 100 rupees. Leaving the house, the ocean was visible. In the heat, it's just bliss. True, there the locals constantly asked us to photograph them.

But this, however, did not bother us in any way, and we were happy to photograph both the kids and, in general, everything that we saw around. Now we are so used to everything that we don’t always carry a camera with us, but then everything was a curiosity and I wanted to capture everything.

Now I will talk about how we moved in India for the first time. Life in India is the absence of any traffic rules. And the longer I live here, the more I am convinced of this. Oncoming traffic practically does not exist, whoever has a larger car is the main one. Drivers constantly press the horn. The noise is such that there is nothing to compare with, perhaps. Once, during the next move from the northern part of India to the south, we noticed that the pass was closed, there were no cars. And then a jeep full of people and knapsacks goes to the eyeballs. It drives past, then backs up, the driver shouts - get in! Where??? Nothing, let's rock! And in fact, in some way still unknown to me, we were able not only to get into this, in general, not a very large car, but also to get there safely. As calm as it is possible in a country like India. I even remember such a case when we spent the night in almost the same conditions that I have just described. It was something... The locals are sexually unsatisfied and it shows in everything. They keep trying to touch or stroke your woman. It was for this reason that the night for me at that time passed completely without sleep.

Public transport in India is also packed to capacity, although it is somewhat similar to Russian buses at rush hour. Nobody ever pays for a ticket, at least we have never paid, and we have not seen anyone from the locals do it. In transport, too, dirt is everywhere. It is better for women to try not to travel in public transport at all for the same reason as described above. Once we got into some kind of baggage car, where the Indians were crowded in three layers! I ended up between the shelves…or rather between the asses… The girls were sitting upstairs sandwiched between men who ate them with passionate glances!

So you can ride in India only with extreme sports and nothing else. We lived in northern India for quite a long time, we also rented a small house without amenities for little money. Everything suited us there, only a strange shadow sometimes covered the view. I did not immediately realize that a monkey had come to us.

We ate there, mostly fried bananas, which we ourselves safely cooked.

Now I hate bananas, especially fried ones, but then it seemed like the food of the gods. Bananas in India are not at all the same as in Russia, there are a lot of different varieties, and those that we are used to in our homeland are not eaten in India even by sacred animal cows.

Now I will tell about our living in India at the moment. I got a pretty lucrative contract and now I live in India on a work visa with my wife of course. We live in a big city, in comfortable conditions, but I am still under constant fear of poisoning myself or picking up something infectious. And we don’t even think about children until the end of the contract. After all, a small child puts his hands in his mouth all the time, and in India it can even be deadly.

Even in the city, it would seem, among luxury and wealth, every morning I see beggars or people from the lowest caste on the side of the roads. Someone just lies on the ground, someone sleeps in dwellings built of cardboard and tarpaulin.

And the children, according to my initial observations, are now very happy here in India.

They absolutely do not care about the concerns of adults. By the way, small children here not only put dots on their foreheads from the evil eye, but also bring their eyes up. How they manage to do this is still a mystery to me.

In cities, as in villages, all the locals love to be photographed, as I mentioned above. And they even ask for it. Agree that it is difficult to imagine Russian people, for example, on a bus, who would come up to you and ask you to photograph them as a keepsake.

Now I will summarize a little my chaotic story about India. If you decide to move here, then be prepared for constant poisoning and fear of getting infected with something. Living in India requires you to make all the necessary vaccinations before moving. There are many of them, any infectious disease specialist in the clinic will give you a complete list. Stock up on antibiotics for the first time, there are few of them in India. It also does not hurt to take the so-called "homeless packages" from home. They will help you survive in the extreme conditions of India. Remember that you may have to live in huts and just in the open, and theft in India is very prosperous, so always carry documents and money on you. Be afraid of snakes and monkeys. The latter, too, like people, are engaged in theft. They very cleverly seize all your belongings, and then carry them to the market and exchange them for food. And don't be surprised, that's exactly what happens. Do not drink freshly squeezed juices in India, although this is a great temptation, you should not do this, otherwise unpleasant consequences for your health are possible. One more piece of advice: nowhere, even in five-star hotels, in any case, do not drink tap water, do not even rinse your mouth with it. Buy drinking water only in bottles. In restaurants and cafes, never order dishes from raw vegetables and do not eat if the order is brought to you slightly warmed up. Food in India should be hot, better scalding. Believe me, I am already an experienced person in this matter and I will not advise bad. Another wish from an experienced resident of India - be sure to carry a flask of alcohol with you everywhere, the stronger the better. I'm not advocating drinking, I'm just saying that if you drink a small sip before and after each meal, you will be less likely to spend the next day hugging a white friend. And of course, when you move to India, bring as much antidiarrheal as possible.

After seven years of work in the Russian office of Home Credit Bank, I was invited to the Philippines for two years, and from there I moved to the Indian branch - and stayed there for almost a year and a half. I chose India as a professional challenge: the opportunity to take part in the development of a bank in a country where about 1.3 billion people live is not given every day.

When I first came to India "for exploration", it seemed to me that she had a lot in common with the Philippines. In fact, they are united only by the fact that they are in the same part of the world. In the rest, there is little. People, culture, market, business practices - everything had to be re-learned.

India is so interesting and strange that it seems as if you are in several eras at once. Here wild tribes who kill foreigners who come to them. And there are cities with metro, modern shopping centers and the City. There are people who are far below the poverty line and live on the street. At the same time, there are super-rich people. According to a study by Wealth X, in 2017 India fourth place in the world in terms of the number of dollar billionaires - after the USA, China and Germany. According to this indicator, it overtook, for example, Switzerland, Russia and Great Britain.

View from the balcony of the guest house in Udaipur

The ancient city of Varanasi. India is an amazing travel destination

Inhabitants of Varanasi

In the center of Old Delhi

Locals in the center of Old Delhi

Such a gigantic stratification between the rich and the poor is reflected, among other things, in Indian life. It can be said that, in general, the quality of things that are produced for the mass consumer is lower in India than in Russia. But at the same time, you can buy goods of higher quality if you are willing to pay more.

Housing

I live and work in Gurgaon, it is a satellite city near the capital of India, New Delhi - almost like Balashikha or Korolev for Moscow, only more (about 800,000 people live there). Gurgaon is considered a major industrial and financial center. Here are the head offices of many international companies, for example, from the field of consulting or IT. Therefore, the quality of life in Gurgaon - not only for expats, but also for locals - is markedly different for the better from life somewhere in Coimbatore or Allahabad.

Flat rent

Many Indians live for several generations at once under one roof: grandmother, parents, son - perhaps with a wife. For this reason, they often own or rent large apartments with multiple bedrooms. The cost of rent can vary tenfold depending on the prestige of the house and the area.

So, an apartment (or townhouse) with an area of ​​​​about 120 square meters. m without furniture and in the usual area of ​​​​Gurgaon can be rented for 30 thousand rupees (27,600 ₽) per month. But in a guarded residential complex with a park on the territory, renting a four-room apartment (living room and three bedrooms) will start from 120,000 rupees (110,400 ₽). To this amount, you will need to add the cost of maintaining the territory, including home repairs - about 30 thousand rupees (27,600 ₽) per quarter. You also have to pay 20– 30 thousand rupees (18,400– 27 600 ₽) per year for access to services on the territory of the complex: swimming pool, gym, cafe, parking. If the apartment is rented without furniture and appliances, all this can be rented (about 30 thousand rupees per month, or 27,600 ₽).

Utilities

The weather in Delhi changes quite dramatically from season to season: in the middle of winter, at night, the temperature can drop to 6– 8 degrees of heat, and in the summer during the day - to reach 48 degrees. In summer, everyone uses air conditioners and heavily overpays for electricity: up to 10 thousand rupees (9200 ₽) per month. There is no central heating in India, so in winter some people turn on radiators - with them you have to pay about 5 thousand rupees (4600 ₽) per month for electricity. The rest of the year, the bills are approximately 3 thousand rupees (2760 ₽) per month.

Gurgaon, golf course and high-rise residential view for wealthy Indians and expats. Smog

Smog haze golf course

In Moscow

My rented apartment in Gurgaon is 15– 20 minutes drive from Cyber ​​City is a corporate business park, something like Moscow City. This roughly corresponds to the Dorogomilovsky district of Moscow (next to the Park Pobedy metro station).

Rent a three-room apartment in the area, Domofond.ru costs an average of 105 thousand rubles per month. A four-room apartment in an elite residential complex"Sparrow Hills" , for example, for 175 thousand ₽. The average cost of utilities for a similar apartment, according to Numbeo, is 8300 ₽.

Directions

Public transport

Gurgaon has a fairly comfortable metro. It can be reached in the center of Delhi in 40– 45 minutes. One trip on the metro costs 65 rupees (60 ₽), but if you buy a travel card, you can save 10%. It turns out that 60 trips per month will cost 3240 rupees (2981 ₽).

Also in Delhi and in neighboring cities, you can travel by shuttle - a bus that travels non-stop to the final station. A package of 30 bus trips costs 2370 rupees (2180 ₽). You can pay for travel and replenish your account through a mobile application.

Taxi

In India, the two main taxi providers are Uber and Ola. They are cheaper than in Moscow, but also of lower quality in terms of cars, cleanliness, skills and knowledge of the driver. Traffic in India is chaotic, with drivers constantly changing lanes, driving in the middle of the road and signaling to each other. It will be extremely difficult to communicate with a taxi driver if you do not know Hindi. Although, in fairness, taxi drivers in Russia hardly speak English better.

The trip from Gurgaon to the center of Delhi by taxi will cost 400– 500 rupees (368 – 460 ₽), depending on traffic. At rush hour, a 30 km journey takes 1.5– 2 hours. For those who often travel by taxi, Uber offers a profitable service: you can buy a package for a month for 250 rupees (230 ₽), and then any trip will cost 39 rupees (35 ₽).

Taxi in Kolkata

In the center of Old Delhi

Five traffic controllers at one traffic light teach motorists to stop at red, Cyber ​​City, Gurgaon

In the center of Old Delhi

Also in India, tuk-tuks, or three-wheel auto rickshaws, are popular. It is curious that tuk-tuk drivers accept payments not only in cash, but also by transfer to a mobile wallet. Imagine: an Indian landscape, a cow is walking along the road and chewing plastic, a tuk-tuk is driving nearby - and then the driver takes out a smartphone, opens an application (it is called Paytm), scans a QR code and accepts payment for the trip. Awesome!

In Moscow

A card for one trip in the Moscow metro and on land transport costs 55 ₽. It is more profitable to pay for travel using a Troika card, with which each trip will cost 38 ₽. For those who often travel by metro or buses, the most profitable option is to “sign up” a package for 60 trips for 1900 ₽ on Troika.

Popular taxis in Moscow include aggregator apps Uber, Gett and Yandex.Taxi. A trip, for example, from Tsaritsyno Park to VDNH (distance about 30 km) will cost 700 ₽. Approximately the same will cost a taxi from the center of Balashikha near Moscow to the Moscow Kremlin. Taxi trips within Moscow for medium distances cost an average of 300– 500 ₽.

Food

Products

Most Indians are vegetarians, they do not eat meat or eggs (although the trend is changing recently). In the state of Haryana, where Gurgaon is located, eating beef is generally prohibited by law. Instead, it is proposed to eat buffalo meat, it can be bought for 400 rupees (368 ₽) per kg.

The main emphasis on the shelves of stores is on vegetables and all kinds of seasonings. Fruits are sold all year round - bananas, watermelons, pineapples. January is strawberry season, summer is mango and lychee.

My girlfriend and I usually buy food in supermarkets. There are both local (Le Marche) and international brands such as Spar. You can order food online at Amazon.in, they deliver not only groceries in packages, but also fresh vegetables and fruits. You can create a basket that will "come" to you regularly.

In total, it takes us about 15 days to buy groceries.– 20 thousand rupees (13,800– 18 400 ₽) per person per month. To compare food prices in Gurgaon and Moscow, I made a table. For Gurgaon, these are average prices, but for a visitor they can be higher than for a local. It is a matter of choosing the quality of products, knowing the places and bargaining skills.

Source: Numbeo.com Prices are rounded to the nearest ruble.

Cafes and restaurants

There are many expats in Gurgaon, so there is a large selection of not only local, but also European cuisine. In addition to Indian, Italian and Asian restaurants are especially common. True, they also have a local flavor: for example, Italian pizza resembles Indian wheat naan cakes, and pasta or noodles are most often buried in sauce- similar to curry.

The Indians themselves adore national cuisine with tandoori, curry, rice. And bread cakes - they are made from different flours, on water, with or without yeast. At the same time, products cooked in a closed oven, tandoori, are always considered a snack. And curry (pieces of meat, vegetables or cheese in a lot of sauce) is the main dish. One of the most popular Indian dishes among expats is butter chicken, chicken in a creamy tomato sauce. I also love palak paneer, which is an unleavened cheese in a thick green sauce made from spinach leaves. In the south of India, the cuisine is a little different, there is more seafood, and coconut milk is often added to curries.

Flower market in Varanasi

Pan merchant (pan - tobacco with spices that is put under the lip)

Vegetable Market in Old Delhi

Food prices can vary greatly. You can buy lunch on the street - eat dosa (this is a flour pancake from South India) and drink lassi (a spicy yogurt drink) - for 50 rupees (46 ₽). And you can dine in a good restaurant with wine for 5 thousand rupees (4600 ₽), and the main part of the cost will be alcohol, for which the state of Haryana has a very high tax (15%).

In the business centers of Gurgaon, the average cost of lunches is 500– 700 rupees (460 – 644 ₽) per serving. By local standards, it is quite expensive. But the final cost of lunch will be even higher: you need to take into account the amount of taxes of 5%, which is not indicated in the price list, and about 10% of the service charge - it is included in the bill automatically, but you can bargain.

There is a stereotype that in India you need to be very careful when trying food from public catering, otherwise there is a risk of poisoning. My family and I have never experienced this - probably because we avoid "suspicious" places and choose only proven street food. It is also possible that some tourists confuse poisoning with the adaptation of the body to an unfamiliar climate, water and food.

In Moscow

You can taste Indian dishes in several establishments of the Russian capital. For example, in the Jagannat vegetarian cafe you can eat palak paneer for 120 ₽, in the Indian restaurant Khajurao - butter chicken for 790 ₽, and in Darbas you can drink lassi for 300 ₽.

Business lunches in Moscow City cost an average of 300– 450 ₽.

Internet and mobile communications

Until recently, there were three main mobile operators in India - Vodafone, Airtel and Idea. In 2016 richest Indian billionaire another network - Jio. And this served as a tangible impetus for the development of the mobile communications market in India. Jio came with very low rates and the fastest mobile internet in the country and allowed many users to go online for the first time. So, they launched a data plan with a smartphone included, which you can rent for a small fee.

This forced other operators to significantly reduce tariffs. So now mobile communications in India are very cheap. For example, a tariff plan for 28 days with unlimited calls and 1 GB of Internet per day will cost 169 rupees (156 ₽). A package for 82 days with 2 GB of internet per day will cost 499 rupees (459 ₽).

Home internet in Gurgaon is also cheap and relatively stable. My tariff includes about 50 GB of Internet per month, and the rest is carried over to the next term - and in 1 year and 2 months I have accumulated a whole terabyte of unused Internet, although I often watch online TV in HD format. Such Internet costs me 1300 rupees (1196 ₽) per month.

In Moscow

In Moscow, a similar story happened with mobile communications - when the Tele-2 operator entered the market. The cheapest package with conditions similar to those in India (30 GB of Internet, unlimited calls within the network and 800 minutes outside of it) costs 700 ₽ per month. Home Internet for most providers is completely unlimited, and its price is an average of 500 ₽ per month.

Entertainment

Gurgaon is located near Delhi, where there are many famous attractions - the 12th century brick minaret Qutb Minar, the tomb of the Mongolian padishah Humayun, the historical citadel of Red Fort. For foreign tourists, visiting each of them will cost about 500 rupees (460 ₽), but for locals it will cost only 20 rupees (18 ₽). The discount also applies to those who work in India and pay taxes here.

Monkey Temple in Jaipur

Evening performance in Udaipur. This woman dances on broken glass

Taj Mahal and surrounding area

Indian cinema is known far beyond the borders of the country, and it is easy to guess that the locals love to go to the cinema. Gurgaon has an IMAX cinema that shows Hollywood blockbusters in English with subtitles - a ticket for such a session will cost about 500 rupees (460 ₽). But in general, Indians are unlikely to be very interested in American films. In the cinemas of small towns or villages, only local films are shown, and a ticket there can be bought for 30 rupees (28 ₽).

In Moscow

Visiting popular metropolitan attractions is not a cheap pleasure. A ticket to the architectural ensemble of the Cathedral Square of the Moscow Kremlin costs 500 ₽, for admission to the Armory you will have to pay another 700 ₽. An entrance ticket to St. Basil's Cathedral on Red Square will cost 500 ₽. There are no discounts for local residents, but there are benefits for schoolchildren, students and pensioners. IMAX movie tickets will cost 400– 600 ₽, depending on the location of the cinema and the time of the session.

Money

Indians are born negotiators, they love to bargain. They are very reluctant to make concessions if they see the needs of another, and vice versa, they are ready to offer favorable conditions if the need is on their side.

I recently sold my stuff online. And absolutely all potential buyers demanded huge discounts for the fact that things were already in use - despite the fact that they were all almost new! Let's say, for my ad price of 17,000 rupees (15,640 ₽), I received bids of 3,000 rupees (2,760 ₽). Of course, there were more adequate proposals. But all discussions had to be conducted for a very long time, without hurrying.

Payments and banks

November 2016 in India monetary reform: the authorities withdrew old-style banknotes of 500 and 1000 rupees (460 and 920 ₽) from circulation in order to bring the country's economy out of the shadows and force businessmen to pay taxes. These banknotes accounted for about 90% of all cash in the country. For the first few weeks, it was possible to exchange small amounts for new banknotes, but then the government stopped the exchange and left the only option - to put money on deposit. Huge queues lined up at the banks, and there were even riots in some Indian cities. However, the reform gave a big boost to cashless payments and the use of mobile wallets. Partly for this reason, every tuk-tuk driver accepts payment via smartphone.

India has a very complex banking system and is heavily regulated by the government. There are universal banks with a license for all products. There are depository financial companies - those who can only accept deposits from the population, but do not have the right to lend it. Lending companies, in turn, are prohibited from accepting deposits. Literally, each area of ​​activity has its own narrow financial company: someone finances construction, someone finances cars or household appliances.

Salary

Let me remind you once again about the gap between the rich and the poor and about the rather high standard of living in Gurgaon compared to the rest of India. The average salary of yesterday's graduate in the initial mass position, say, a call center employee, is 10– 15 thousand rupees (9200– 13 800 ₽) per month. Specialists from 6– With 8 years of experience, they earn around 100 thousand rupees (92 thousand ₽) per month. At the same time, graduates of good universities that are in the top 10– 20 in terms of performance in their course, they can count on employment in some large corporation and on a monthly salary of about 150 thousand rupees (138 thousand ₽) immediately after studying.

in Moscow in 2018 Mosgorstat, the average salary was 78,946 ₽ - this is also a figure before taxes.

Average spend per month:

Prices are translated into rubles at the rate of 1 rupee = 0.92 ₽.

Total:

India: 96,743 rupees (89,004 ₽)

Moscow: 118 630 ₽

When calculating the total costs, we used the prices indicated in the text. If the price range was indicated, the arithmetic mean was considered. When writing the text Sravni.ru did not cooperate with any company and brand.

Publishes a story by photographer Katya Peshakova about how to arrange life in fabulous India.

I have been interested in India since childhood. When I was 16, a friend invited me to a Hare Krishna festival. In the Krishna consciousness movement, I was more attracted not by the organization itself, but by Indian culture in its general manifestation. It was important for me to know the essence of India: history, culture, language, religion. I literally fell ill with this country and admire it to this day.

Road to India

When I first visited India, I realized that I wanted to live in this country. It only remained to figure out how to stay here forever. The move was quite painful due to material and visa problems. I was 22, I could not immediately get on my feet, so I had to return home several times a year. My plan worked only three years later.

While I could not work, I simply began to contact Indian photographers and organizations. I needed to understand the process, get an idea of ​​how an Indian wedding works, so I offered my services to the studios for free. Only one responded, and every day I went to free shootings and lived on savings made in Russia.

After some time, they began to pay me a hundred dollars for shooting, although later I found out that the studio was selling my work several times more expensive. When I gained a client base, I decided to open a company and work under my own name. At first there were difficulties, but in the end we overcame everything, and my company has been successfully operating to this day.

Varanasi

Upon arrival in India, nothing surprised me: I was well prepared for this country, so there was no dissonance. I did not dream of a fabulous India and took all the realities for granted. When you really want something, you stop noticing minor inconveniences.

I settled in Varanasi, and before that I lived in Goa and Delhi. Varanasi is a very specific city, it is especially revered because it is considered the city of Shiva. Many believe that Shiva is present here, and those who complete their life path by cremation in Varanasi will immediately receive liberation, even if they did not deserve it with their lifestyle.

The city is like a labyrinth: new roads are cut into the old part, located on the river bank. Until now, while walking, I find new streets here, although I have lived here for a long time.

I settled in the old part of Varanasi because I wanted to be closer to the river. This area is considered Europeanized. I feel comfortable here, because on the one hand - a European piece of life, on the other - a historical place with many temples within walking distance.

Life is a game

The locals are very open and friendly. Hospitality is one of the principles of Indian culture: the host must treat the guest as a deity. Indians of all Asians are most similar to Russians, so I do not feel a barrier in communication. They can come up on the street, ask about life and immediately become your friend.

I managed to live for some time in an Indian family, thanks to which I improved my language a lot, although I learned Hindi back in Russia. Even though I am fluent in it, I try to take additional lessons from the teacher.

In Varanasi, you rarely meet a native speaker of the Russian language, which cannot be said about Goa. However, the attitude towards our compatriots in these two states varies greatly. In Varanasi, people are more modest, stick to traditions, and in Goa, people are spinning in the tourism business, and this has ruined many. Although Indians don't see anything wrong with making money. In Indian religion, a person must go through four stages to achieve liberation: kama - satisfaction of desires, artha - making money, dharma - spiritual growth and moksha - liberation. Artha is one of the steps: a person is not considered bad if he makes a profit. It's a sin not to make money on tourists!

Indians do not deceive tourists, but play with them. In their view, life is a game. A person with an Eastern mentality has an attitude: "I call a thousand, because we will bargain and reach a certain amount that suits both." The Indian enjoys the process, and at the word “thousand” we turn around and leave without even joining the game.

The older generation at the mention of Russia often says: “Oh, Hindi Rusi bhai bhai!” ("Indians and Russians are brothers"). This is the slogan of Soviet-Indian friendship, which was popular in the 1950s-1980s. People remember this.

Traditions

India is famous for its myriad of holidays and unusual traditions. New Year is an occasion to take a walk for young people. The most important Hindu holiday is Devali. Many set off fireworks, decorate houses with garlands, and businessmen close account books, so in my mind this holiday has become the New Year. The holiday of victory over evil is more important to me, I try to celebrate it with loved ones.

I like to watch wedding ceremonies. In each state they are different, even different castes of one state celebrate this event in their own way.

The wedding ceremony begins with matchmaking. The groom's relatives come to the bride and agree on the wedding. In the morning, a mihendi ceremony is held - the skin of the bride and her girlfriends is painted with henna. In the evening, on the eve of the wedding, a sangid is held - a dance wedding program. The highlight of the evening is the dance of the bride.

On the wedding day, a haldi ceremony is organized. Turmeric paste mixed with oils and incense is used to anoint the bride and groom. On our white skin, it does not look so beautiful - it takes on a yellow tint, and Indian shimmers with a golden color. The wedding is considered completed after the newlyweds walk around the fire seven times.

Housing problem

The cost of renting housing in Indian cities varies depending on the area. Apartments in a residential complex are more expensive, as you need to pay a membership fee. In Delhi, I rented a three-room apartment in a residential area for 25 thousand rubles. Apartments outside the residential complex will cost 10-15 thousand rubles, but the conditions here are much worse.

My area in Varanasi is considered expensive due to the huge number of Europeans, so I pay about 20 thousand rubles for an apartment. But this does not mean that poor people have to live on the street - you can find a room even for two thousand rubles. There is housing for every budget, it all depends on requests.

I use the so-called free medicine - that is, state. Even a tourist in India can count on preferential service. This type of medical care is good, but the hospitals are poorly equipped, and the waiting lists for doctors are long. All poor people use state medicine, because a visit to a government clinic costs only 20-30 rubles.

Detractors

My whole life is vacation. I read a lot, explore the city, do yoga, arrange workshops for European travelers who want to get to know India better. Today, for example, we talked about Indian folk painting. In my free time I blog. My goal is to show India in all its glory.

There are ill-wishers who see only the bad in India. The question is often asked: “How do you live among such dirt?” I stopped answering that there is something to see in India besides dirt. When I am once again asked about this, I ask a counter question: “Is there really nothing else to pay attention to in a civilization that is more than five thousand years old?” I want people to notice more subtle things, because beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

I recently posted a photo of a man meditating on the Ganges River. The camp of commentators was divided: some wrote, “How I want to be there,” and others, “Why is he sitting in such a garbage dump?” This is an exemplary situation - how differently people can look at the world.

Indian fairy tale

Mom was prepared for my move - she knew that sooner or later it would happen. Real friends supported, and what the rest think - I don't care. This is my life and I don't care how others feel about it.

I've been here for almost ten years. I often receive friends from Russia. I am changing the established notion of India as an unsafe place - with my life and blog, I show that this is just a stamp and a template.

I still do not understand why a positive thinker is told that he looks at the world through rose-colored glasses? Why are we used to the fact that negativity must be taken for granted? I show India as we saw it in childhood: like an Indian fairy tale, like something unusual. Because that's what she is.

India attracts with non-standard beauty, openness, friendliness of its inhabitants. Whatever side of life you take, everywhere modernity coexists with traditionalism, which is often surprising. Maybe that's why people in India evaluate life differently.

India is a land of contrasts

The multinationality of the country, the abundance of languages ​​and religions is striking. The "diversity" of the population is explained by the centuries-old mixture of nationalities due to migration processes.

Anyone who has lived in India for a long time is not surprised by the local color, the slums next to the palaces. For beginners, it is difficult at first to take for granted the many cows and dogs on the city streets, the chaos on the roads, the dirt, the variety of smells, the constant hum. And the fact that the standard of living of Indians is very different. There are a lot of millionaires here, but a lot more beggars.

It is not easy to answer the question: "Is India poor or rich?" Some sources write that a third of all poor people live in this state. Moreover, poverty is not considered a vice here. "So it is written in the family" - the main law of karma. Social inequality is on the rise: there is an unbridgeable gulf between the richest and the poorest.

Ecology

Serious environmental problems harm the country and threaten the state of the world as a whole. Among the main ones are deforestation, soil depletion, air and water pollution. There is a lot of precipitation, but the water evaporates quickly, and the pollution of the remaining makes it inaccessible to a large number of the population. Smog in cities is a consequence of oversaturation with transport, the operation of old cars, and the use of low-quality gasoline.

The fact that India is a country where residents do not care about the cleanliness of the environment even at the household level also affects environmental troubles: garbage is thrown right outside the threshold of dwellings, even in prosperous neighborhoods.

But a person does not harm the flora and fauna - the mentality and beliefs are not the same. There are many reserves, numerous projects are being implemented to protect forests, coral reefs, etc.

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of how people live in India. Life depends on prosperity. Wealthy urban residents have apartments or houses, cars and even servants. But there are many more families barely making ends meet.

Life in India is absolutely not established. People are indifferent to comfort and convenience. In most apartments, there is not only no hot water supply, but also toilets.

clothing

The most popular women's outfit is a sari - a piece of fabric that envelops a woman from head to toe. We also love the shalwar kameez - trousers and a tunic that are narrow at the ankles. Brilliant numerous decorations are at a premium.

Men (especially in rural areas) also wear cotton linen, with a shirt on top. But there are also jackets fastened with buttons - shervani, sometimes resembling a coat in length. The traditional headdress is a turban, the shape of which depends on the area, faith, and interest.

Given that India is a conservative country, travelers should dress modestly. It is best to wear loose, figure-hide clothing made from light natural fabrics.

Product prices

Cheapness somewhat brightens up the life of the common people in India. 100 rupees at the beginning of April 2020 corresponded to 88 rubles. Compare. The cost in the markets of vegetables is up to 20 rupees, fruits - from 25 to 100 (mangosteen), fish - 200-250, lobsters - 1200. In stores, you can buy chicken for 100, beef - for 220, a dozen eggs - for 50, milk - for 40 rupees. Food prices in India in 2020 are surprising.

Features of Indian cuisine

Food and everything related to its preparation, for Hindus, has a sacred meaning associated with family life.

There are many national features. For example, excessive love for spicy and spicy dishes. Europeans are not ready for this. Unexpected food combinations are also welcome. Fried bananas in tandem with cucumbers and chili peppers are not the most surprising neighborhood on a plate.

The predominant food is rice, peas, vegetables, cheese, flatbread. From meat they prefer lamb, goat meat, poultry. Due to beliefs, beef and pork are generally not eaten. Desserts with milk, nuts, rice, honey, fruits, spices are varied and tasty.

It is important for travelers to remember simple rules:

• wash your hands more often;
• drink only bottled water;
• try national dishes with caution, order them without local spices;
• do not neglect fennel, which can be found in any catering establishment and will help to avoid stomach problems.

Families are large, several generations live in the same house. It is allowed to marry only a representative of one's caste and religion, by agreement of the parents of a young man and a girl. There are usually many children. There are practically no divorces. The head of the family is the eldest man, he solves all the problems of the household, they give him the money he earns.

Many are interested in how women live in India? Also differently. For the poor, already in the womb, the girl becomes unwanted, and they try to get rid of her. If born, they can unobtrusively contribute to leaving for another world. All because the girl will have to marry. And for this to pay a kind of kalym. It means that you have to work hard all your life to accumulate the required amount. She will not have the right to vote, even when she becomes a wife. You have to work a lot, unless, of course, she is married to a very wealthy person. This one does not work anywhere, she has a lot of beautiful clothes and jewelry, she is not offended, especially if she gives birth to sons. But she is not treated in the same way as a poor woman.

Violence and discrimination concern women of Indian origin to a greater extent, foreign women feel freer. Russian wives speak well or badly about the country and their life in it, depending on whether they successfully married. If a man is independent and decides to live outside the clan, or if the parents' family is educated and not poor and approved of his son's choice, then life can be said to be successful. There will be inconveniences related to climate, food, utilities, but in general, everything is not much different from the existence of an average Russian family.

Housing cost

Real estate in India attracts investors with its affordability. Housing is purchased mainly in large cities and resort areas, where it can be profitably leased. They also buy non-residential premises - for trade or production.

The cost of a small apartment in Goa is about 10 thousand dollars. Away from the coastal zone for 60 thousand dollars, you can buy a spacious apartment with a good repair. In the largest cities, the price of 1 sq. m of housing - at least $ 950, and often reaches 20 thousand.

It is possible to buy a hut in the countryside. Only the quality of housing is low and there are no amenities. In addition, you will have to be all the time where the Indians live around. Not everyone likes it.

Acquired real estate must be declared and taxed on it in a timely manner, the amount of which each state independently approves.

Where do they work

The national unemployment rate is skyrocketing. In this situation, it is problematic for an immigrant from Russia, even for a good specialist, to find a job. You can evaluate the opportunities in the article "Working in India".

The illegal labor force is being identified and expelled from the country.

Wages

The average salary of Indians is much lower than in other countries. Based on per capita income, the average worker should receive approximately $2,700 per year. But a third of the total cash flow goes to highly paid workers, who make up no more than 10%.

The minimum wage for the village is 4,000 rupees ($60), more than half of all workers receive it. In practice, this is a living wage. The average hourly rate can be as low as 30-60 cents. Employees of private companies receive more ($120), less - state ($75). Salary levels vary by industry.

In order for an immigrant to obtain a work visa, one must find a job that will pay over $2,000 per month. This is possible if you manage to get a job in a foreign company, for example, in the IT field. They pay based on European values.

Education system in India

The level of general education in the country is low, there are many illiterate people. But the education system in 2020 includes all the traditional stages: preschool, school, vocational, higher and postgraduate.

Education state and non-state. The second is intended for both children and adolescents, as well as for adults. A 40-year-old student is not uncommon.

Kindergartens are preparatory groups of schools, already here acquaintance with the English language begins, which is mandatory for studying at school, where children come from the age of 4. The first 10 years they study for free and according to a single program, then students are divided into those who will master the profession and those who continue their education.

The average private school is paid, but accessible to the average family.

Higher education is represented by more than two hundred universities, mainly focused on European standards. Depending on the period of study and the future profession, students receive bachelor's, master's, doctoral degrees.

For foreigners, admission to local universities gives the right to obtain a residence permit. Diligent study leads to strong knowledge and guarantees decent employment in the country. Therefore, studying in India is popular among those who would like to stay in the country for a long time.

Education in India is no worse than in Europe, America and China. Universities produce well-trained specialists. Russians have the opportunity to study for free, count on a hostel and a scholarship. The main condition is excellent knowledge of English.

Medical level

There is no free healthcare in India. Many private clinics of narrow specialization. Their services are cheaper than in state medical centers - mostly well-equipped, with highly qualified doctors who receive good salaries. Their services are used by wealthy locals and foreigners. The so-called medical tourism is the most developed here. This is facilitated by the low cost of services compared to the United States and Israel, for example. As well as adherence to traditional methods of treatment set forth in Ayurveda and which have many followers around the world, which is used for commercial purposes.

For the majority of local residents, quality health care is not available. Hospitals in remote areas serve patients in unsuitable rooms, often without electricity, water, or medicines. Theoretically, assistance is free, in fact, they charge a fee for the appointment, focusing on the patient's income.

Childbirth often takes place at home, under the supervision of a midwife or mother-in-law. If in the clinic, then, as a rule, a caesarean section is offered. Natural childbirth must be negotiated additionally. The statistics are relentless: maternal and child mortality in India is perhaps the highest in the world.

Tourists need to purchase medical insurance, which includes a basic insurance option and, if desired, various options.

Russians in India

There are no more than a thousand Russians with Indian citizenship and permanent residence, they mostly settled in Delhi. But unofficially lives much more. It is believed that Russians go to India for spirituality, the search for the meaning of life, and perfection in yoga. There are also many merchants, but most of the "Russian Indians" are the wives of local men. To understand how Russians live in India, you need to talk to them. The country is exotic, natural, living conditions are specific and represent a serious test for Europeans.

The attitude of indigenous people to Russian immigrants

The close cooperation between India and the former Soviet Union has influenced how Russians are treated today. Memories are pleasant, but they are immediately clouded when immigrants behave inappropriately, not recognizing the traditions, beliefs, customs of local residents. For example, ardent Hindus and Muslims treat Christians badly. Separate cases of Russophobia occur. “Russians” here refers to all immigrants from the former Soviet Union.

Where live

Russians are easier to meet in large cities and resort areas. In Mumbai, housing is the most expensive, but the city is considered safe to live in. And it is easier to find a job than, for example, in Delhi, where life is more comfortable and a little cheaper, but unemployment and crime are high. Bangalore is attractive due to its modern infrastructure, affordable housing prices, especially rented ones. But the state of Goa is the most popular, and immigrants mainly seek it there.

Features of life in Goa

India through the eyes of Russians is, for the most part, “Goa through the eyes of Russians”. A resort is a resort. The local settlers are satisfied with life and are not going to leave here. Children are sent to English schools, then they pay for education in good universities. The tourism business brings in a decent income. Compatriots are served not at local, but at European rates. There are many Russian restaurants and shops, they need labor, the owners prefer to take “their own”. Some live on odd jobs. Those who know English have a chance to get a job as a seller or a guide. Masseurs, dancers, animators are in demand.

True, foreigners are limited in their rights. But the Russian consulate, if necessary, helps to restore justice.

Comparison of lifestyle in India and Russia

The pros and cons of the life of Russians in an ancient original country can be imagined in comparison with Russia.

India is an extremely interesting, colorful and attractive country for tourists. Few think about permanent residence. But if spiritually drawn here, it will provide an opportunity for self-improvement.