How to make internal partitions in a wooden house. How to make a partition from a bar with your own hands How to build a partition from a bar

If the load-bearing walls "line" the outer boundary of a residential building, then the internal partitions divide the space into functional zones. Self-supporting structures must meet sanitary and hygienic standards and be fireproof. Choice suitable material for internal partitions wooden houses carried out not only in accordance with the above conditions, but also taking into account other factors. These include the degree of load of the structure on the fundamental foundation (it should be minimal), durability, strength.

Types of floors and installation features

First option

An economically viable solution today is the construction load-bearing structure by the frame-shield method. Wooden frame partition can be made from any type of wood. It is a frame, sheathed with finishing material on both sides. The resulting inner space filled with soundproofing. Racks with vertical arrangement are made of boards measuring 50 * 100 mm. The distance between the individual structural elements is an average of 50 cm. For the reliability of the frame vertical racks reinforced with horizontal strapping.

Since the frame partition is devoid of soundproofing and heat-insulating properties, its internal space must be filled with high-quality insulation. Polystyrene and mineral wool are considered ideal heat insulators. The next step is to attach the vapor barrier. The special film will provide reliable protection insulation from moisture and condensation. Next, the frame is sheathed with plywood sheets, the average thickness of which is 9 mm, or with drywall.

Second option

Solid partitions are considered especially strong. Their disadvantages include the complexity of construction and high cash costs. They are made from a bar 50-100 mm thick. Rigidity is ensured by high-quality assembly into a spike. Triangular bars and nails are used as fasteners. With the help of the first, the partition is fixed to the ceiling and floor, the second is fixed to the wall. In cases where the house has not yet fully shrunk, fastening to wall surface carried out through special grooves. The final stage is the sheathing of the partition with drywall, fiberboard or plywood sheets.

Third option

Panel partition interroom in wooden house is an assembly of boards located relative to each other at an angle of 90 degrees. Most often for the manufacture of shields use a thickness of 19 to 40 mm. The design can be three-layer or two-layer. To improve its heat-insulating and sound-proofing performance, roofing material or cardboard is left between the layers.

When laying boards in two layers, preference is given to boards with a thickness of 20 to 40 mm. Fix the elements in a strictly vertical position with nails. When manufacturing, it is important to ensure a snug fit of the boards. When assembling, the shields are fixed in pre-prepared grooves on the ceiling and floor. The finished partition is plastered.

As for the three-layer construction, it is preferable for it to use a thickness of no more than 20 mm. AT this case the arrangement of middle boards horizontally is permissible. Insulation is laid between the shields in two layers. The final touch is the application of plaster.

How to make a drywall partition in a wooden house, what rules and nuances should be taken into account? Almost all finishing work is carried out using a universal building material. Specifications drywall allow you to use it for the manufacture of interior partitions. In order for the structure not to deform as a result of shrinkage of the house, it is necessary to leave a sliding gap of at least 4 cm. The battens are assembled from metal profiles - they are reliable, durable and easy to use.

Depending on personal preferences, financial capabilities, skills, each owner of a residential building decides what to make partitions from in a wooden country house. The preferred option is the construction of natural material with insulation.

Partitions are the main structures that shape the arrangement of rooms, corridors and utility rooms on the total area of ​​apartments and floors of houses.

Dividing walls are built from the most various materials: bricks, foam blocks, drywall, cinder blocks. When they start redevelopment of living space or equip attic floor, often make partitions from a bar.

A wall assembled from a bar can be quickly dismantled and moved to another place. How to assemble a partition from a bar with your own hands? This is quite easy to do, and we will talk about it in this article.

What is a wooden beam

Use only dried profile

The beam is made mainly from hard rocks. coniferous trees. In cross section, the profile is a square or rectangle. In construction, timber with a cross section of 30x30 mm to 100 x 100 mm is most often used.

Before using a wooden profile, it is dried and treated with an antiseptic. The finished product is subjected to rejection. If the deflection of the rail is more than 2 mm on running meter, then such a bar is used as an auxiliary material.

Wooden crafts they usually go on sale with a length of 6 m. Short cuts and rejects are sold cheaply, which is beneficial for the buyer in the manufacture of small lattice structures from timber.

After you have decided on the location of the partition, you need to draw up a scheme for the formation of the frame.

The construction of a wall for the entire width of the room involves a device doorway.

Part of the used dimensions of the beam, depending on the application, can be presented in the form of a table:

If the owner of the dwelling is not very concerned about the issue of saving money, then the entire frame can be assembled from one bar with a section of 50x50 mm.

To install a bulk partition, you will have to make a wall of two planes

The wooden frame attracts with the availability of the material and the ease of mounting the wall. The beam is so easy to process that the wall frame can be created in any configuration.

If you are planning to make a volumetric partition, then you will have to mount a wall of two planes.

After drawing up the design wooden frame, calculate the need for a tree of different sections. Wooden products are purchased in building supermarkets. When the beam was delivered to the place, they proceed directly to the installation of the partition frame.

Tools and materials

Before proceeding with the installation of the partition, you need to prepare essential tool and materials:

• dowels with a diameter of 6 and 8 mm;
• perforator;
• stapler;
• chisels;
• roulette;
• marker;
• screwdriver;
• level;
• a hammer;
• screws;
• mounting corners;
• a vacuum cleaner;
• saw on wood.

Pre-applied markings will facilitate the installation of the beam

The assembly of the frame consists of the following operations:

1. The beam is sawn into the desired segments. Elements from the bars are stacked in the room in the order of their use.
2. Markings are applied to the enclosing surfaces with a marker.
3. dismantled flooring at the point of attachment of the lower beam. The coating is removed to the concrete surface of the ceiling.
4. Through holes are drilled in the upper, lower beam and side racks.
5. Holes are deepened into concrete or brickwork for the length of the dowel. wooden elements fasten with dowels.
6. Install door posts. Racks are connected to the upper and lower beams with mounting brackets.
7. The beam of the doorway rests on the side posts and is fixed with mounting brackets on the screws. If the span of the wall is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to consider the installation of intermediate supports.
8. After mounting the cross-links of the frame. The transverse elements are fixed with corners.
9. Inserted into the openings of the frame mineral wool, polyurethane foam sheets or other soundproofing material. Soundproofing is fixed on the tree with a stapler. For more information about the timber frame, see this video:

It is possible to fix the cross connection with an oblique tie-in of a long screw, “flashing” the horizontal beam and the vertical support.

When the frame is ready, hang the doors. All distortions and leaks are eliminated. Now proceed directly to the lining of the frame.

Partition frame cladding

Most often, walls made of fiberboard or chipboard are finished with wallpaper.

Several types of materials are used for sheathing the frame of the partition:

• construction plywood;
• drywall.

Sheathing of a wooden frame is made from pre-cut sheets of the above materials. Attach the cladding with self-tapping screws.

The cutting of the material is done in such a way that the vertical and horizontal joints allow the self-tapping screws to get into the body of the beam.

Since a partition made of timber forms a space of two rooms, the finishing of both wall surfaces is carried out in accordance with the interior of each room separately.

The most common wall decoration is wallpapering, which is selected according to the general color of the room. Otherwise, after installing the partition, new wallpaper is glued throughout the room.

The partition can be made in the form accent wall. There are many examples on the Internet on how to do this.

Completion of work

After finishing install door frames. The lower and upper junctions of the floor with the wall are covered with cornices. About the rules for installing partitions from a bar, see this video:

If the partition is made in the form of a three-dimensional structure, then a frame made of processed board is inserted into the square opening (it is usually arranged in the wall between the kitchen and the dining room). Platbands are installed along the perimeter of the opening.

A wooden frame is a complex of load-bearing walls made of logs that form external and sometimes 1-2 internal enclosing structures. If the purpose of the building is a residential building, inside you will need a device for interior fences that will divide the space into residential areas.

Features of fences

A partition in a wooden frame can only be installed after the house has completely shrunk, when the risk of its deformation and destruction as a result of this process is reduced. Usually, the building is allowed to rest after assembly for 1-2 years, after which you can proceed with the installation of the internal parts of the layout. The design is not load-bearing, it takes only its own weight, therefore it does not require a reinforced frame and a separate foundation.

The main difference between a partition and a wall is that the former can be easily dismantled without damaging the floor and ceiling, if the owners decide to change the layout and put the fence in another place.

Qualities that an interior fence should have:

• Lightness of material and design;
• Environmental Safety, which is very important when choosing a material for fencing residential areas in a wooden house;
• Thermal insulation;
• Noise protection from adjacent rooms;
• The partition must cope with the suspension of some household appliances, furniture. This should be taken into account in advance when choosing the design and material of the skin.

In most cases, interior fencing can be installed independently without the involvement of specialists.

Varieties

What type of interior fence to choose:

Frame partitions in a log house are the most common and most affordable type of interior fences that you can install yourself. They consist of a wooden frame, insulation and cladding. Their main feature is the variety of possible configurations during installation. Frame fence can divide the space into zones different shapes. When redevelopment, the structure is easily disassembled and transferred to another place for further service.

Joiner's (panel) wooden partitions for a log house fit just as well as frame ones. They are prefabricated panels that need to be installed on frame rails. Partitions often do not require additional finishing, they can be varnished, colored composite materials with a pattern. Their disadvantage is low sound insulation, although this parameter can be adjusted when ordering, buying or manufacturing, choosing the option that suits you according to the characteristics.

The cost of a carpentry partition depends on the type of construction and the materials used and starts from 250 rubles/m2 to 1500 rubles/m2 or more.

Solid partitions without a frame are attached to the ceiling and floor guides with a nail method or screwed onto screws. To disassemble such a structure, you will have to remove all the fasteners of individual boards or panels.

Partition in a log house with your own hands

With independent construction, there is no desire to resort to the services of specialists in such a matter as installing partitions in a log house wooden house. We will analyze the method of construction of each type of enclosing structure.

frame structure

For assembly, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Beam for the frame. Its width can be 60-100 mm, depending on the desired size of sound insulation and the type of insulation chosen. The height of the bar is within 40-50 mm.
• Reiki - spacers can be smaller in size than the bars for the frame. Their purpose is to maintain the rigidity of the structure and fix the insulation.
• Vapor barrier material, if such a layer is not provided in the insulation.
• Thermal insulation. For residential premises, it is optimal to use plate materials: mineral wool, foam plastic, basalt.
• For fastening - self-tapping screws, a screwdriver, you can use nails and a hammer, if the material being fixed allows their use.

Stages of work:

1. The location of the partition is marked and the lower harness is mounted. To do this, the bar is attached to the floor with self-tapping screws or screws. It is immediately necessary to provide for the location of doorways.
2. Strictly above the lower strapping, the upper belt is attached the same way, just leave a gap under the opening is not necessary.
3. Installation of vertical racks. It is convenient to start from the opening and mount the timber with a step not exceeding the width of the insulation plate. Fastening with self-tapping screws or on the corners to the top and bottom harness. Side racks are attached directly to the wall.
4. Now you need to make a doorway. The side racks are already installed, you need to attach the top jumper.
5. Spacers are inserted just above the middle of the height and fastened with self-tapping screws. You can do otherwise: measure the room and assemble the frame on the floor, then lift it up and attach it to the ceiling and wall.
6. Now you can sheathe one side of the wall so that the installed insulation takes its place during installation. It is desirable to stretch a membrane or film on the frame, which will protect the heat insulator from moisture. This issue is considered especially relevant when fencing the kitchen and bathrooms. The film can be attached with a stapler to the racks of the frame. On top of the vapor barrier, the partition is sheathed sheet materials(MDF, GKL) or board, clapboard. The joints of the elements should fall in the middle of the vertical rack. When one side is ready, we put the insulation plate inside the frame. It is necessary to place them in such a way that there are no gaps in the insulation to improve the effect of sound absorption.
7. Sheathing the second side according to the same principle: vapor barrier, cladding.

This type of barriers can be installed in any houses: brick, concrete, stone, frame.

Joinery partitions

Shield screens can be purchased at ready-made or make them yourself. In the first case, you can significantly save time on the assembly of the product and its subsequent finishing, but you will not be able to save money. Self-manufacturing and installation of shields is best done before laying the finishing floor, so that the structure can be fixed on the logs. How to make a partition in a log house yourself:

1. The dimensions of the future structure are being taken. The length is divided into several parts that need to be made. The easiest way is to make a shield out of boards. It can be double or triple (according to the number of plank rows). To do this, according to the principle of a frame partition, a jumper is made from a bar, on which they are stuffed on both sides flat boards, between which you can lay a heater with foil: it is able to slightly dampen noise and retain heat inside the room. Instead of foil, you can take the usual insulation material (mineral wool, foam). The shield can be single, then the boards are butted to each other and guide rails are nailed along the lower and upper edges.
2. On the ceiling and on the logs (along the floor) you need to make grooves to hold the shields. To do this, the bars are nailed or screwed in 2 rows, the distance between which is equal to the thickness of the partition or the width of the shield, together with the retaining edge rails.
3. Shields are inserted into the grooves.

Carpentry structures can reach the ceiling or be 50-60 cm below its level. Such structures could be found in houses built in the 20th century in rooms with high ceilings such as hostels and administrative offices of ordinary employees.

Panel joinery and frame partitions are similar in design if the former are made of 2 or 3 rows of boards.

Frameless design

At its core, a frameless fence is similar to a shield one:

• 1) Guide bars are nailed to the ceiling and floor;
• 2) Boards are attached to the ceiling and floor beams, which are sheathed with plasterboard or other panel or finishing material.

Such a partition cannot have a heater. Instead of boards, plastic or composite panels can be chosen.

Other options

Partitions can be not only static, but also mobile. Them independent production can be troublesome and costly, but with an understanding of the technology of their work experienced master is quite capable of handling this task.

Movable screens are sold complete with guides and all fasteners, so it is advisable to purchase a ready-made system. What types of structures are there?

• In non-threshold systems, the canvases move parallel along the ceiling profile;
• In rail webs, partitions move along two rails on the floor and ceiling;
• Folding canvases are folded like an accordion, moving along the ceiling and floor profiles.

Each system has an instruction according to which the installation of a movable fence is carried out. This is convenient to install in several cases:

• For zoning large rooms;
• To distinguish between a kitchen and a room in a studio apartment;
• To delimit space in one-room apartments.

Sliding canvas partitions will be useful in cases where it is necessary to visually delimit the space. There is no talk of any sound insulation and heat preservation.

If you want to independently make a sliding partition in a wooden house from a log house, you should repeat the principle of operation of ready-made systems and make the appropriate floor and ceiling profiles, to make canvases. Fasteners and roller mechanisms still have to be purchased.

The main thing to consider

Static and sliding partitions for a log house can be made and installed independently, lightweight structures will optimally fit into rooms with wooden walls and floors. In addition, the structures are easily attached to wood and hold well on it.

The main thing to remember: maintaining verticality and dimensional accuracy is a guarantee successful work. If the ceiling and floor rails are not attached parallel to each other, there will be a slight skew in the railing. Mobile systems are especially sensitive to accuracy. If the profiles are not attached parallel, the blades will simply not move or the process will be difficult.

In log houses, partitions are made of the same material so as not to disturb the design. They are mounted according to the plan during the assembly of the house or later, at the request of redevelopment. Interior partitions made of timber can be made anywhere in the house, as they do not carry the main load. They can be omitted when installing the foundation, which makes the layout convenient. We will talk about how they are assembled and what are the partitions in a house made of timber below.

The design of timber partitions is considered one of the most durable. The bar used as a support withstands great pressure and does not bend, as it rests on the flooring or logs. If you do not make openings in the partitions, then even additional supports are not needed.

It takes a minimum amount of time to install such a partition with your own hands. And if you follow all the instructions, then the beam device will last for more than a dozen years. If necessary, it can be easily dismantled and moved to another location.

The main advantages include:

• Thermal insulation and soundproofing. Since the timber has good thermal and sound insulation properties.
• Does not need additional insulation.
• Expensive finishing is not needed, since the wall itself turns out to be aesthetic (the exception is the frame assembly).
• Easy assembly.
• The device can withstand heavy loads (for example, heavy cabinets or shelves can be hung).

Assembling the timber partition

When assembling, you need to know a number of subtleties that will help you avoid mistakes and make inner wall under construction of the house from a bar strong. Various tools are used for the job. The beam must not only be chosen correctly, but also laid, connected.

The subtleties of laying timber

• Laying starts from the bottom bar. A small layer of waterproofing is laid between this bar and subsequent rows. They do this for the reason that the lower part of the wall periodically encounters moisture. This and wet cleaning and possible leaks from pipes, etc. For the same reason, it is recommended to use larch or aspen timber as the lower link.
• To create higher thermal insulation and sound insulation, jute fiber is laid between the bars. The joints between the main wall and the partition are also insulated with this material.
• In order for the device to have a rigid structure, the links are fastened with wooden or iron dowels. Place them between every two consecutive links.
• The Nagel is mounted with a distance of 150 cm, retreating from the corners by 150 mm. The location of the dowels should be staggered.
• For partitions made of timber, a material with a section of 100x100 mm 100x150 mm is suitable. The height must match the material of the main walls. But a large width is not needed.
• After assembly, the partition is ground together with the main walls and coated with an antiseptic primer. Installation can be done during the main assembly of the house or after.

Connecting the beam to the main wall

The easiest way to connect the device to the main walls of the timber is to cut a groove. At the end of the beam in the partition, a spike is sawn out, into which it is later inserted into the groove.

If the partition has a small thickness, then you can cut a groove according to this size. The timber is already inserted into it simply with the ends without additional sawing.

Another method to connect the main wall with the partition structure with your own hands is to make a frame from a bar. The bar is screwed to the main wall with long self-tapping screws so that over time the structure does not loosen and lose its rigidity.

Tools you will need for DIY:

1. Saw (benzo or electric).
2. Hacksaw for wood.
3. Small axe.
4. Slick.
5. Drill with a drill for wood.
6. Pencil and tape measure.
7. Level.
8. A hammer.

The main stages of installation

Mounting with the help of bars, in grooves with or without a spike, is done in different ways. Which option is chosen will envy the main stages.

Framed bead partition

This type of partition is assembled on a base - a timber frame. The frame is made of timber 50x50 mm. By bearing wall, from which the device will go, vertical lines are made parallel to each other on each side and ceiling. This will be the basis of the future frame. The beam is fixed, starting from the sides vertically from the floor with self-tapping screws. Then, stepping back from the ceiling by 10 -15 cm, a spacer is made across the entire width. It should be fixed to the ceiling with long screws. Another beam is screwed parallel to the floor from below, the ends of which are connected to the side parts.

You need to connect all parts with the side bars with metal corners. Then the place of the opening is outlined, and from the upper beam to the bottom, two beams are let in at the distance of the future opening. After that, bars are still passed vertically in the frame in increments of 60-70 cm. Spacers are made between them from a short bar. An additional spacer is made above the opening. Sheathe the frame GKL or GVL. First on one side. Then sheets of foam or mineral wool are placed in the cells and closed on the other side of the GKL. Between the insulation and the gypsum board, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier to protect the inside of the wall from moisture.

Installation of a solid partition using a bar frame

On the wall adjacent to the partition, a straight vertical line is marked with a level. They retreat from it on both sides by 50 mm and draw two more parallel ones. The same is done on opposite wall and on the ceiling. Frame bars of 50x50 mm are attached to these features and screwed with long self-tapping screws in steps of 40-50 cm. As a result, a frame of a double bar with a gap of 100 mm will be obtained. The ends of the beam of the future partition are inserted into this gap.

But first, a jute insulation is laid on the floor under the frame. The first beam in the frame is attached to the floor with anchors. Holes for dowels are drilled in this link with an indent from the main wall by 15 cm on both sides. Nagels have a size of 20-30 cm. Holes are also drilled in the beam that will be next, into which the dowels driven into the first beam will be inserted. Jute fiber is also laid between the bars.

This is done with all the bars in turn up to the ceiling.

Tongue and groove mounting

For this type of installation, a straight line must be drawn again in the main wall. You need to retreat from it on each side by half the width of the planned spike. The spike is sawn out in a bar from the ends. For this, a saw or a hacksaw is suitable. The height of the spike should be 30-50 mm.

A groove is cut in the wall along two extreme straight lines to a depth of 30-50 mm. Flax fiber or tow is also laid in the groove. Even thin layer.

The first beam is placed on the floor, previously covered with jute tape. It is screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws. Further, in the same way, holes are drilled for the dowel, and the second bar is placed with spikes into the groove. This is how the partitions are made to the top.

If an opening is provided in the partition frame, then additional rigid ribs are made. They need to be attached to the upper bars of the frame with the help of iron corners. This option of partitions is optimal for the construction of a house from profiled timber.

Groove mounting without studs

A vertical straight line is drawn in the wall to which the partition will adjoin. From it you need to retreat half the width of the beam for the partition. That is, if the width of the beam is 100 mm, then we retreat 50 mm and draw two more parallel lines.

A groove is sawn along the extreme parallel to a depth of 30-50 mm. Jute is placed in this groove and the ends of the timber are inserted. The laying of the beam is carried out in the same way with the help of dowels with jute, as in previous cases.

After the partition is assembled, it is covered with jute. If the insulation during assembly was carried out with a high-quality flax fiber tape, then this part can be skipped.

The price of a timber partition

The main plus of partitions for building a house from glued laminated timber or other lumber is their final price. If you do all the work with your own hands, then it will cost the owner a few thousand. When compared with this type frame structures, which are considered to be the most economical, given the insulation, finish, it will become clear - this option is cheaper. So the price of a frame partition starts from 100 rubles / m2, but this is without exterior finish. A bar partition made of simple planed material costs from 150 rubles / m2, and finishing is less expensive.

We talked in detail about all types of partitions based on timber. Which design is easier to do with your own hands is up to the reader to decide.

Wooden interior partitions are still in demand in repairs, despite the fact that many modern technologies. The wooden partition is suitable for both apartments and private houses. Such partitions are quite light, not demanding on the base on which they are installed. The most important thing is that wood is natural natural material retains heat and lasts for many years.

Features of a wooden partition

The wooden frame can be called reusable, it is easy to disassemble and reinstall it in another place. When installing the frame, you need to take into account the features of the room, where there is high humidity(kitchen, bath, attic) it is necessary to additionally treat the wood with a water-repellent coating. In addition, wood needs protection from insects and fungus. Perhaps this is the only drawback of wooden partitions - they require careful preparation.

Types of wooden partitions

Wooden partitions are of two types: solid and frame.

A solid partition is made of boards 4-6 mm thick, which are installed vertically, and in order to create sound insulation, the structure is made double with a hollow space in the middle, where it is then placed soundproofing material. In this case, the cost of the structure increases due to the overspending of material and the weight increases significantly.

The frame wooden partition is very light and generally similar to a frame made of metal profile. The design turns out to be light and quickly assembled, a beam of 50x50 or 50x100 mm is used for assembly. The double frame partition is ideal not only for soundproofing, but also for installation sliding doors. sewn over the frame Decoration Materials, plywood, drywall, fiberboard, OSB or MDF panels.

Installation of a wooden partition

A wooden partition can be installed on any base, it can be reinforced concrete slab, coupler or wooden beams. Installation begins with the installation of load-bearing beams, which are mounted on the area marked under the partition to the ceiling, floor and walls. Marking evenness - key moment, you can of course use the old-fashioned rope for beating, but it's best to use a modern laser level. If the partition is placed between two walls, then there are no problems with evenness, existing straight lines should be maintained. It is important to perfectly evenly connect horizontal lines and vertical ones from the walls, without distortions. Wooden beams are attached along these lines.
The bars are attached to the bases, depending on what material the latter are made of. For example, for concrete base floors it is best to use anchors, they are also for ceiling tiles overlap. If the house is wooden and the bases are made of wood, then it will be optimal to use wood screws. To brick walls, load-bearing beams fastened with self-tapping screws with plastic dowels, or you can use all the same anchors. AT wooden bars you need to make a potai (niche) in which the hat of the anchor or other fasteners will be hidden.

First, horizontal bars are placed on the floor and ceiling, then side bars are attached to the walls between them. After the vertical bars are level, a wire or rope must be pulled between them, it will serve as a guide for the vertical bars, which must be set along the entire length of the structure. Vertical racks are attached at the bottom and top to the rails, fastening is carried out using metal corners. The distance between the posts is from 40 to 60 cm, depending on what material you will use for sheathing. Calculate in advance the places where shelves and other hanging elements will be installed, in these places you need to make mortgages that will strengthen the structure. Mortgages are made from the same beam and are installed between vertical posts.

After the vertical posts are strengthened, horizontal crossbars must be made between them. To do this, the height of the rack is divided in half and a horizontal bar is attached in the center of each opening, the bars are attached with the help of corners and self-tapping screws. The result is a full-fledged crate, the same as in the case of using a metal profile.

Laying soundproofing and communications

As in most cases, for wooden partition mineral wool insulation is used, which fills the entire space between the bars. Previously, one side of the frame must be closed, sometimes this is done with vapor barrier film, in other cases, they are sewn up with prepared material, fiberboard or otherwise. It is best to make a vapor barrier from a special membrane; it is easily stretched over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure and nailed with staples. Soundproofing material must be laid in a dense layer, leaving no voids and gaps.

Given that the structure is wooden, you should carefully consider the laying of electrical communications. The wires must be hidden in an insulating heat-resistant corrugated box. Openings for corrugations are cut in wooden bars if dense mineral plate, then it will have to cut through places for laying the cable.

Frame finish

For finishing a wooden frame, any available material: lining, plastic or metal panels, drywall, MDF, OSB, plywood, etc. Depending on your choice, additional finishing work will or will not have to be done. For example, in the case of wooden clapboard, it will need to be sanded and possibly covered with drying oil or varnish, this will protect the wood and give it an aesthetic appearance. And if you use panels made of plastic or MDF, then finishing is not required, because they themselves are finishing coatings.

Plywood sheathing needs not only processing, but also finishing, as a rule, wallpaper is used, cork flooring or putty with subsequent painting.