White pine tinted lacquer. Brighter and Brighter: Do-it-yourself wood tinting

Antique wooden furniture always serves as an interior decoration. But what if you want to update the situation a little? Yes, and the natural color of the wood seems to be completely bored ... Solid wood furniture tinting- great way out! Do-it-yourself tinting is not so difficult. The main thing to pick up necessary materials and be extremely careful in the process.

Choosing materials

For tinting wood, several types of coatings are suitable on their own. Their choice depends on what result you want to achieve in the end. Here are the most common coloring compositions:

• acrylic paint. You can buy it not only in hardware stores. It impregnates the surface well, but there is a significant minus - when the tree strongly absorbs the tinting composition, the fibers of its structure rise strongly. Therefore, it is better to mix acrylic with other decorating materials. For example, with molding or glazing.
• Mordant. This is a dry pigment that is diluted with water before application. A big plus is that such a dye does not impregnate the surface, but simply clogs small particles of wood. Toning with this composition will help to avoid irregularities and roughness of the structure. The mordant does not just color, it penetrates deep and acts chemically. So, the brightness of the resulting colors is guaranteed! But after tinting the wood with this method, the array must be varnished. Otherwise, if moisture gets on the furniture, stains may remain.
• wood stain. Most best option for tinting wood with your own hands. It does not pick up the fibers and does not require an additional layer of varnish. You can also purchase patination - this is almost the same as stain, but its shades can be adjusted.

Together with dye Buy a special woodworking brush or roller, swab, and lint-free cloth. It is better if the brush is made of natural bristles, although synthetic materials- nylon or polyester.

Getting Started with Toning

Toning can be done in several ways. Paint by hand, spray or dip into solution. The most common method that can be successfully applied at home is brush painting. So, the old wooden bedside table is already ready for its color transformation. And here's what she's up to:

• Cleaning and grinding. Before painting, it is important to level the surface and make the wood structure as smooth as possible. An ordinary skin will help with this.
• Stain application. Using a roller or brush, spread the paint evenly over the wood along the grain. And to remove the excess, simply rub the stain with a dry cloth or swab.
• Paint drying. This step is extremely important. It is better to be patient and wait until the layer dries well. Only in this case it is possible to evaluate the final result of the work and the resulting shade. If it is not saturated enough, then you can apply the stain again.
• Lacquering. This completion of tinting prolongs the wear resistance of a colored wooden product.

Do-it-yourself wood tinting- the process is quite laborious. However, if you love creativity and are not afraid to try new things, then such work will certainly bring maximum pleasure. And bright wooden interior items will delight every day!

Internal staircase - functional element and a noticeable accent in the interior of the house. Most often it is built from pine wood. The task of the designer is to make sure that the architectural component blends harmoniously into the environment and performs its tasks for as long as possible. To do this, a pine staircase is treated with special means and painted in accordance with overall design.

What are the advantages of making stairs from pine

During the construction and decoration of budget wooden houses pine wood is used. This wood is not as durable as oak, cedar or larch, but is quite durable, more common, cheap and available. Pine is better than spruce because it has a denser texture and much less knots that reduce the strength of lumber.

Pine products are distinguished by a pleasant light golden or almost white color and a unique pattern.

Pine has a pleasant light golden or almost white color.

Features of pine wood

Pine is somewhat more difficult to work with than cedar or oak. Soft wood needs fine sanding and careful selection of processing agents.

The density of the material depends on the growing conditions of the tree:

• In warm periods, intensely growing fibers form a loose array. Cold years provide hard and dense wood.
• Pine harvested in the mountains has a dense and uniform texture, while pine grown on sandy soils has a light, loose, fibrous texture.
• The northern pine is better than the material obtained in the southern latitudes.

That's why most of of the resulting lumber absorbs the means of processing unevenly. Under transparent coating unsightly spots appear, which for aesthetic reasons is extremely unpleasant. Gum (resin) contributes to the appearance of color spots on the surface of pine products. If the raw material is prepared in winter period, when the bulk of the resin is pumped by the tree into root system, the fibers remain drier, cleaner and stronger. They evenly absorb processing agents. On wood cut down during the spring-summer sap flow, stains and stains appear. Brought into a warm, dry room, it begins to push the resin out.

steps interior stairs usually built from edged massive board. But often they use a glued board, which has greater strength and wear resistance. The difference in the color of the lamellas from which such a board is assembled is especially noticeable. In addition, due to changes in humidity, the lamellas begin to warp over time, gaps form between them.

On a glued board, the difference in the color of the lamellas is especially noticeable

If you wish to leave the interfloor wooden stairs its original natural color, you will have to use special means processing: primer, mastic, wax, stain. A simpler option is to apply a decorative opaque coating to a pine staircase.

Why you need to paint your home

The statement that a tree is beautiful and does not need to be painted is fundamentally wrong. Wood does have an attractive appearance, but it is very vulnerable to insects, mold, hard shoe soles, dirt, and fire. Steps wear out especially quickly.

Stair rungs wear out the fastest

Therefore, it is necessary to paint a pine staircase. If you want to see the natural pattern of wood, paint at least with a colorless varnish, but be sure to paint!

The paint creates a solid protective covering, which does not allow premature "wearing out" wood fibers. It is inedible for the bug and unsuitable for the settlement of rot and mold. Impregnation at times enhance protection and extend the life of the product.

How to paint

For the processing of pine stairs are used:

In order for the coating to turn out to be of high quality and durable, cover the wood only with high-quality materials purchased in specialized stores or from manufacturers.

Which coloring material to choose: a comparison table

For stairs, use matte or semi-gloss paints. Glossy steps and railings from constant use lose their luster over time and look untidy. It will not be possible to quickly refresh the color, you will have to grind and repaint all surfaces.

Materials and tools

• Primer
• Thinner, paint cleaner
• Paint, enamel, varnish
• Putty on wood
• sealant
• masking tape
• Protective film
• Putty knife
• Napkins, rags, rags
• Scraper
• Sanding tool, sandpaper
• Mini rollers, brushes
• Protective equipment: gloves, respirator ("petal" or others).

How to work with paint or enamel

All work with paints and solvents should be carried out in the warm season to ensure constant ventilation of the room.

Video: How to paint steps with paint

The procedure for working with varnish

Preparation and coating of stairs with wood stain + video

1. Perform all preliminary work: protection of adjacent surfaces, cleaning, puttying, sealing, grinding.
2. Use a paint brush to apply stain to one step. Leave on for 2-3 minutes to absorb. With a dry, lint-free cotton cloth, carefully wipe off excess material, moving it only in the longitudinal direction.
3. Treat all steps, balusters, railings in the same way.
4. If the color of the impregnation turned out to be uneven, repeat the treatment. In order for the stain to lay down more evenly, not to leave stains, to better emphasize the texture of the wood, moisten the surface with water before applying it. When working with stain, wear rubber gloves, since contact with soiled rags is inevitable.

Before staining the entire staircase, experiment with the tone in a small, inconspicuous area.

Finishing varnish (with video instructions)

• For stairs, it is desirable to use matte and semi-gloss varnishes. They do not show signs of wear, and the slip coefficient of the matte surface is lower, which makes the stairs safer.

Glossy surface wear looks especially unsightly

• Combined coatingFor painting the internal stairs, you can use the combined method. For example, paint the vertical parts of the steps and balusters with paint, and protect the more worn horizontal parts of the steps and railings with parquet varnish.

The best varnish for steps is polyurethane parquet. It is expensive, but extremely durable.

When working with a spray gun, the use of a respirator is mandatory.

Painting interior stairs is not difficult and is quite affordable. home master. If you have purchased high-quality materials and followed the technology while working, your staircase will fulfill its tasks and look brilliant for a very long time.

Parquet tinting is a great opportunity to make the colors of the flooring more attractive and even completely change the style of the interior. In addition, such tinting is considered a fairly affordable procedure with which you can emphasize your individuality by making flooring more original and stylish. One of the most effective means for processing the floor is a lacquer for tinting.

The main advantages of tinting with varnish

Compared with oil and stain, this material has a number of advantages. For example, a tinted paintwork material is quite easy to apply and at the same time allows you to apply a composition of a different color over time, while changing the shade of the floor.

To simply change the intensity of the color of the floor covering, it is enough to apply additional layers of paintwork material to it. Accordingly, the more layers, the more intense the shade will become.

Besides, the tinted paint and varnish material promotes increase in term of operation of a parquet. With the help of varnish, you can quickly restore the worn-out varnish coating.

Acrylic-based tinted lacquer is a fairly common floor covering. This paintwork material is based on acrylic water dispersion. Best of all, this tinting composition is suitable for wood and floor wood flooring giving the surface a beautiful and presentable appearance.

A distinctive feature of this varnish is fast drying.

Scope of application:

• outdoor and interior work on decorative and protective finishing of wood, in particular lining, plinths, platbands and various wooden panels;
• parquet tinting;
• interior work on mineral surfaces such as concrete, natural and fake diamond, brick.

The main characteristics of acrylic tinted varnish:

• color options: transparent glossy, mahogany, oak, walnut, pine, mountain ash and oregon;
• packing options: from one to ten kilograms;
• consumption parameters: 1 kg of varnish is enough to cover from 8 to 14 m2 of a floor or other wooden surface;
• drying time is at least one hour, however, complete hardening occurs only after two days.

Application rules

Before applying the toning paint and varnish material to the floor surface, it must be thoroughly mixed. , brush or spray on a previously prepared surface. It must be kept clean and dry.

Before applying varnish, it is better to sand or sand the floor covering, depending on the type of parquet. If it is necessary to apply a tinting paint and varnish composition on a mineral surface, then it should be carefully primed with varnish diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1.

Painting is carried out in two or three layers. In this case, the next layer can be applied only after the previous one has dried. To prevent the varnish from becoming thick, during operation it should be stirred at least once every half hour.

Applying tint paintwork It is recommended to carry out at a temperature of at least 12 degrees. After finishing work, the tool should be thoroughly rinsed with water so that it does not dry out and does not harden.

Color selection

Choice colors when tinting parquet is an important procedure, which will determine the style of your interior and its originality. The standard oak color, made in yellow-brown tones, has already managed to get fed up with our compatriots. Therefore, more original shades, such as smoky or bog oak, are becoming increasingly popular.

In addition, if you want to make your interior more modern and interesting, then you can choose a varnish in the color of bleached or blackened oak.

At right choice colors, tinted paintwork material will help to make the interior more harmonious and stylish by achieving the most successful combination between the color of the floor and other elements.

In addition, tinting allows you to make old floors more presentable. At the same time, the pattern and texture of the tree is completely preserved.

Optimum colors of tinted varnish:

1. Dark rich shades will give the floor an elegant and solid appearance. Such a coating is best combined with warm, cozy tones. Most often, dark tinting is used in modern interiors. The most beautiful dark tones are dark chestnut, bog oak, chocolate shade and so on.
2. White tinted paint material will allow you to emphasize your individuality. Such a coating is just at the peak of fashion today. Of course, the floor, tinted in white, does not require particularly careful maintenance. On such a coating, the dust will be almost invisible, unlike the black floor. White tinted parquet will make your interior lighter and weightless.

1. The brown tinted floor symbolizes comfort and reliability. It is a very versatile color as it suits almost any interior style. varnish Brown color It goes well with all shades of furniture, from yellow to dark tones.
2. Gray tinted paint material will help to make the parquet more elegant and solid. This color is combined with white and black interior elements. In addition, a floor covered in gray lacquer will look good with cold and autumn tones.
3. Dark red and cherry toning will give your interior coziness and warmth. At the same time, under this color of the floor it will be more difficult to choose the optimal combination with other elements of the interior. For example, a similar floor is ideally combined with yellow, brown and green interior elements. At the same time, the red tinted paint and varnish composition is not combined with cold tones.

Thus, the tinted paint and varnish material will make parquet or any other wood coating more presentable and stylish. In addition, the application of tinting varnish will make the coating more wear-resistant and durable.

Pigment stains are the least sensitive to chemical composition the finishing layer applied over them. Almost any finish can be applied to the dried stain, such as oil or water varnish for wood finishing, tinted water or oil stain. The stain must be completely dry before applying the varnish. The drying rate is affected by temperature, as well as the humidity of the surrounding air and the wood itself, so you should not pay attention special attention bank instructions. Use your nose: if you smell solvent, then the stain has not dried yet. Dyes are more capricious. If you apply a varnish containing the same solvent with a brush or swab, you can leave streaks and partially mix the dye with the varnish. Sometimes this can achieve greater color depth, but more often the quality of the coating is reduced. With the proper equipment, it is best to apply the varnish by spraying to avoid problems.

Dyes, pigments and methods for obtaining the desired color

You put together another project and carefully sanded all the surfaces. A can of varnish is already there, but this time you do not want the wood to have its usual color. You want this item to match the old decor of your living room or be indistinguishable from expensive furniture sold in interior salons. However, perhaps you just need to color-match the different boards from which the project is made, imitate exotic species, or make the texture of wood more expressive and its usual color richer. If you are facing one of these tasks, it's time to start toning.

Toning is based on two types of colorants - pigments and dyes. We'll help you choose the right tool for your project and show you how to work with it.

How to choose one option from many possible

What type of dye do you prefer? You have a wide choice (photo below). The decision depends on what kind of wood you use, what kind of look you want to give it, and what kind of coating will be applied at the final stage of finishing.

For regular toning, use pigment stain or dyes. These dyes work in different ways. (photo below), and the results of their work will differ, as can be seen in the above photographs. Pigment stains are sold in stores selling paintwork materials, and dyes can be found in specialized stores or ordered from catalogs.

Pigment stains unevenly stain wood with areas of varying density, such as maple, birch, cherry or pine. Dyes penetrate deep into the surface, regardless of the density of the wood. After choosing the desired shade, remember that all dyes fade over time. Pigment stains retain their color the longest. Among the dyes, the most resistant are water-soluble, and oil or alcohol solutions of dyes fade rather quickly. Do not use dyes for tinting if the wood will get sunlight, - in such conditions they fade very quickly.

Ease of application

The technique of tinting with pigment stains and dyes is almost the same. Test it out on a trial cut, then generously apply the coloring compound to the surface of your product and wipe off the excess to even out the color.

Then let the surface dry completely, then wipe it again to remove the plaque that forms in some places. Remember that the color of the surface changes when the composition dries, and then changes again when applying a clear varnish (photo bottom left). Dyes for wood tinting can be purchased as a ready-made solution or dry powder. Thoroughly dissolve the powdered dye and strain ready solution (photo bottom right). Typically, the color of wood stained with dyes does not change with an increase in the number of layers of the coloring composition. It becomes darker, but remains transparent. Each new layer of pigment stain further darkens the surface color and reduces transparency.

Possible defects and their elimination

Although tinting is considered a simple operation, problems sometimes arise. But many of them can be avoided if you know what can happen.

Raising the pile. The main disadvantage of aqueous compounds is that they raise the pile on the wood. You should be prepared for this, and it is better to lift the pile in advance and carefully remove it. (photo bottom left) and then start toning.

wood color difference. Even good board sometimes it has patches and stripes of different colors, and most coloring compositions cannot hide this difference. Working with such boards is shown in photo on the rightat the bottom.Spotting. The wood of some species is stained unevenly. By pre-treating the surface with conditioner, you can achieve a more uniform toning.

On the next page (photo below) examples of such processing are shown. Darkening of the ends. The end surfaces absorb more stain than the rest of the board. To reduce color differences, sand the ends one step finer than the rest of the surfaces. Then treat them with conditioner. Tinting with dyes instead of pigment stains also helps to reduce the difference in surface color without resorting to the use of a conditioner.

Color mismatch. Sometimes the color of painted wood is different from what you expected. If the shade matches your plans, but it is too light, apply another layer of the same coloring composition. If the resulting shade is not as desired, it can be covered with a darker stain.

If the color is too dark and the surface is not yet dry, it can be lightened slightly by wiping with a suitable solvent. Water stains are washed off with water, and for oil stains you need to use white spirit.

If the water stain is already dry, you can partially remove it with an ox and re-tint the surface. Dried oil stain can often be removed organic solvents for varnishes and enamels. If this is not enough, use a wash, then lighten the remaining stains with bleach, and then proceed to tint again.

It is possible to slightly lighten the painted surface by wiping it gently with a suitable solvent, but care must be taken to keep the shade even and to avoid spots and streaks.

Variations on a theme

We have focused your attention on pigment stains and dyes, but there are five more products that can be used to tone wood. In some cases, it is better to prefer combined coloring compositions containing pigments and dyes, colored oil-lacquer mixtures, gel stain, universal finishing compositions or the so-called "lint-free" stains (that is, stains that do not cause lint to rise). The most convenient to use are combined coloring compositions. (photo above). However, in some situations, gel stain can achieve better results. (photo below).

Colored oil-lacquer mixtures, which include the so-called "Danish" oil, contain oil, varnish, thinner and colorants. Such compositions are easy to apply, penetrate deeper into the wood and, thanks to a moderately resistant binder, can serve as an independent finishing agent.

Universal finishing compositions, used as a final finishing layer, contain a varnish (for example, polyurethane) with coloring agents. The thinner for such compositions is white spirit or ox, and the coloring matter is a dye or pigment. With their help, the finishing coating is applied simultaneously with toning. They practically do not penetrate deep into the wood and are similar in properties to paints. Because of fast drying working with them requires certain skills to apply a uniformly thin layer. Additional layers darken the color and make it less transparent. When applied with a brush, it is difficult to avoid overlapping areas that will stand out as dark spots. As a rule, the use of such compositions in the finishing in the workshop should be avoided.

"lint-free" wave-based stains can be diluted with alcohol or varnish thinner, and used on top of them finishing coatings oil based. They dry out too quickly, making them less comfortable than regular water stains, and most hobby carpenters do just fine without them.

Expand your color palette

Most carpenters buy ready-made compounds for tinting wood, the standard range of which is available in many stores. But if you want to go beyond the usual colors or just want to experiment, learn how to change these colors to your liking. One way is to mix standard colors, but first you need to make sure that the mixes are compatible. They must use the same solvent.

Much more possibilities provides the addition of primary colors to finished formulations or their application directly to the surface of the wood. Use artistic oil paints or so-called Japanese paints if stain and oil-based varnish will be applied afterwards. If the product is covered with stain and varnish on water based, can be used acrylic paints diluted with an aqueous solution of glue. Such paints are sold in art salons and art stores.

The color wheel will tell you how to get the desired color. The most famous color wheels show how to use red, yellow and blue paints to get all the other colors.

Nevertheless, restrained shades of the so-called "earthy" range traditionally dominate in the decoration of furniture. (see photo below). Various combinations of natural and burnt umber, sienna, ocher, black and white pigments give a rich palette of beautiful shades that are used in furniture making. Experiment on scraps and, having achieved the desired result, do not forget to write down the recipe.

If you want to achieve a special shade, use the available options that most carpenters are not even aware of. Acrylic and oil artistic paints and the color wheel will help you get any shade that will turn the most ordinary project into something special.

We used acrylic glazes and art-shop paints to get these results on oak wood. On the left sample, natural sienna was applied, the middle one was covered with burnt umber, and on the right sample, both paints were mixed together.

You can see the difference between dyes and pigment stains. The oak board on the right was stained with golden brown, and the board below was stained with the same color stain.

Like paints, pigment stains remain on the surface of the wood, almost without penetrating into the depths. because of high content paint pigments are opaque. Stains contain the same pigments, but in smaller quantities, so they are relatively transparent (they can be considered highly diluted paints).

The smallest pigment particles are mixed with a binder - a substance that holds the pigment after drying on the surface. The most famous oil-type binder is drying oil. Other substances are used in water stains. All pigment stains should be thoroughly mixed before application to evenly distribute the settled pigment particles in the liquid and prevent the appearance of multi-colored streaks.

Dyes are very different from pigments. They are transparent, penetrate deep into any wood, and it is easier to achieve color uniformity with them.

You can purchase ready-made dye solutions, dry powders or liquid concentrates. Powders and concentrates are diluted with an appropriate solvent: water, alcohol or one of the petroleum solvents, for example, a solvent. Important to use for each type of dye suitable solvent. Water dye, as a rule, cannot be diluted with alcohol.

Liquid dye concentrates can often be diluted with several solvents. Alcohol dyes are the fastest drying (perhaps too fast drying, making them difficult to work with). Water-soluble dyes are safe and most convenient to use.

When toning, it is most important to consider how the color changes when the coloring composition dries. Often the carpenter, seeing the dried surface, considers it necessary to apply a few more layers to enhance the color, but this usually leads to an error. If the color of the raw surface was as desired, nothing needs to be done. This color will come back after clear coat is applied as shown in the picture. . Some colorants dry faster than others, and if the stain is already dry, it will be more difficult to remove excess stain. Water stains dry faster than oil stains. Often the dry surface will appear dusty and dull in color, but this is nothing to worry about.

By mixing dry dye powder with alcohol or water, you will not be able to completely dissolve all its particles, despite the thoroughness of mixing. Let the solution stand, then stir again, and then strain through a paper coffee maker filter, cheesecloth or nylon stocking to get rid of undissolved particles. Always wear a dust mask when working with dry powder, as it is very dusty and can cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems. To achieve the desired shade, you can mix pigment stains with dyes, if they are diluted in the same solvent. For best results, mix products from the same manufacturer. You should also dilute each coloring agent separately before mixing them with each other. Do not add a powder or concentrate of one color to a ready-made solution of another color.

Water stains and dyes raise the pile on the wood. The tiny fibers swell and remain raised like bristles. If you apply a layer finishing composition(varnish or paint), the surface will resemble sandpaper.

The easiest way to deal with this phenomenon (before applying a stain or water-based dye) is to lift the pile and then remove it. Moisten the surface with clean water from a spray bottle and let it dry completely. Now, by grinding or scraping, remove the raised villi. Simple and effective scrapers are obtained from replacement blades for craft knives. Hold the blade almost vertically, as shown in the photo, and carefully scrape the surface.

The wood may have different colour, and it is not always possible to completely correct this difference with a single layer of stain. It is most difficult to do this on woods such as cherry or walnut, in which the sapwood is much lighter than the heartwood.

If you want the whole surface to be dark, apply stain only to the sapwood, as shown in this cherry plank example. After drying, apply another layer of the same stain, covering the entire part with it. If you want to achieve a uniform coloration of the entire surface, the color of the stain should match the color of the heartwood. Use this stain only on sapwood areas.

Pine, cherry, maple and birch wood on the surface of the same board has areas of different density. Such heterogeneity is the cause of uneven toning when using pigment stains. Soft areas absorb more stain than hard areas and appear darker after toning.

You can reduce the effect of heterogeneity with the help of a conditioner, applying it before toning. Conditioner is a type of binder that closes wood pores, and you can see the result of its application in the photo on the left.

We used Minwax conditioner and a red-brown stain to treat the left pine board, and the right board is covered only with stain.

You can make your own conditioner. If for upper layers coatings chosen polyurethane varnish, make a conditioner from one part of varnish diluted with five parts of thinner. Apply this mixture to the surface, dry, lightly sand sandpaper No. 220, and then tint with stain.

Combined formulations containing dye and pigment stain usually delaminate during long-term storage on the store shelf. The dye remains in solution, and the pigments settle to the bottom of the jar. To obtain the original color, the composition should be thoroughly mixed. You can determine such compositions with a stick by lowering its end to the bottom of the jar. If there is a clot on it, and the stick itself becomes colored (see. photo below) you are dealing with a combined composition. The dye stains dense areas wooden surface and the pigment accumulates in the pores. Such compositions tint problematic rocks more evenly, but in order to further reduce color heterogeneity, it is better to apply a conditioner first. Combined formulations are applied in different ways.

At the top of the jar, when left unstirred, is a dye solution that can be used directly to tint wood or added to a compatible lacquer to make a toner (more on that in the next article in this series).

By slightly mixing the contents of the can, you will get a slightly different shade of the same color. Thorough mixing will give another shade. Finally, the pigment residue, if not stirred, is excellent for use as a patina, which will be discussed in the next article.

Stain-gel consists of a pigment, a dye or a mixture thereof and an oil- or water-based binder. Strictly speaking, it is a kind of paint that covers the surface without being absorbed into it. Such stains hide the texture pattern a little, but it is easier to achieve color uniformity with them (see photo). photo below). The left sample was coated with plain water stain, a gel stain was used to tint the right sample. Stain-gel is great for applying the so-called patina. The patination technique allows you to add colored layers between the layers of the base coat and imitate a texture pattern on any surface. For example, you can do two different boards similar to each other and turn the hardboard into oak.

Pine wood has a noble texture, rich natural shades and is distinguished long term operation. These qualities determine the consistently high consumer demand for furniture from this natural material.

It should be understood that wood requires proper care, which will increase its strength and extend its service life. Most often, varnish is used to cover furniture made of pine furniture board. This has important benefits:

• The consumer can buy furniture for the headset from different manufacturers - a colorless varnish will make all items the same from an aesthetic point of view.
• Varnish, unlike coloring mixtures, is distributed evenly over the surface, which emphasizes the beauty of natural wood.
• Pine is an inexpensive material, and varnishing increases its final cost.

In addition to varnish, paints and stains are used to cover pine wood products. The process of staining is quite complicated and requires experience with a spray gun, and staining is usually done with a wide brush or roller.

What is furniture coating?

Wood processing is carried out in various purposes: giving desired color, improving quality characteristics, improving moisture and heat resistance. For example, a combination of a tinting composition (stain) and parquet or yacht varnish will make the set strong, beautiful and durable.

Today, manufacturers have launched the production of furniture made of pine, tinted like cherry, beech, oak, walnut and other species. However, these technologies can satisfy only a certain group of consumers, since the products on the market do not differ in either the breadth of colors or the variety of aesthetic images. That is why many connoisseurs of natural material decide on a difficult step: self-painting wooden furniture and interior items. And here a reasonable question arises: how to cover furniture board from pine?

To date, there are three main technologies for wood processing:

• Toning;
• Solid painting;
• Varnishing.

Pine furniture painting options

To get started, ask yourself a few questions:

• Do you want to emphasize the natural tone of the wood or paint over it?
• What is the structure of the source material (the presence of irregularities, knots, defects)?
• How will the product fit in with other items and the overall design of the room?

The choice of method and means of covering a wooden set or individual items depends on the answers to these questions.

Furniture tinting

Pine is distinguished by its natural color, which is dominated by amber-golden tones. Furniture made of this wood "breathes" and harmonizes with any interior, from the living room to the children's room.

Tinting emphasizes the natural color of the material and hides its defects, highlights the wood structure and evens out uneven shades. In addition, this technology can give raw materials non-standard colors, as well as an imitation effect. valuable breeds trees.

Thinking about how to cover furniture from a furniture board? Processing is carried out, as a rule, with aniline dyes and aqueous solutions salts, tannins and acids. These products interact well with water and are quickly absorbed into the material.

In the process of tinting wood, a number of important criteria should be taken into account:

• The working surface must be sanded before and after processing;
• The tinting agent is superimposed on the primer layer;
• Dark spots, streaks and other dye defects will spoil the final result - you need to get rid of them;
• After staining, the material must dry.

Furniture varnishing and painting

If desired, you can varnish the furniture board or just paint it. AT general view these works are reduced to the following actions:

• The surface of the furniture is cleaned of the old coating, all defects, knots and roughness are removed;
• The wood is deresined;
• All irregularities and cracks are sealed with putty;
• With a roller or wide brush a primer is applied;
• The first layer of paint is applied and cleaned with fine sandpaper;
• A second coat of paint is applied.

Pine wood has heterogeneity, which complicates the staining process. In particular, its high resin content does not allow uniform coverage of the entire surface of the product. To solve this problem, the furniture board should be deresined.

Removing excess resin is not only a guarantee of high-quality material processing, but also care for the aesthetics of wooden furniture. The fact is that resin streaks acquire over time dark color and spoil the appearance of the product or interior item. But still they main disadvantage is the inability to evenly apply the primer, paint and varnishes - the resin creates irregularities on the working surface and releases a sticky film that prevents the absorption of the applied products.

How is wood deresining done? First you need to prepare a special liquid consisting of technical alcohol (10 g), 25% technical solution acetone (0.2 kg), potassium carbonate (50 g), soap flakes (50 g), ordinary baking soda (50 g) and one liter hot water. This product is applied to the surface, then it is thoroughly washed and dried. Too large resin growths can be cut with a knife and puttied.

Thus, the treatment of wood with stains, paints and varnishes will not only give solid pine furniture a juicy rich color, but also extend its service life. In addition, these processes can be carried out independently, without resorting to the help of third-party specialists.

It is worth adding that the strength and aesthetic characteristics of the material depend not only on the quality of the impregnation, but also on the characteristics of the feedstock. The Angara Plus company produces , 25 and 40 mm, which combines high practicality, environmental friendliness and affordable cost.