How to make a drywall ceiling. Plasterboard ceiling installation: step-by-step instructions and useful tips How to mount a plasterboard suspended ceiling

A real sensation in construction was made by the appearance of drywall. Thanks to this material, the time for finishing work was significantly reduced, if earlier all surfaces had to be plastered, which took a lot of time and effort, especially for ceiling surfaces. Now the installation of a plasterboard ceiling is carried out quickly and there is no need to invite a team of professionals.

An example of the design of a mounted plasterboard ceiling

In addition, under the GKL construction, you can hide communications and install a beautiful backlight. The main advantage of this material is that it is possible from it. It is worth noting that in the construction and decoration of drywall is a leader, among other materials. Simplicity plus its small specific gravity, make it possible to apply more than three levels to the ceiling, while the flexibility of the material allows you to create beautiful, voluminous patterns on the surface.

There is certain rules on which the plasterboard construction is installed. For high quality and fast execution installation work should be strictly adhered to.

Preparation of a drawing with the dimensions of the ceiling for the installation of drywall

Consumables and required tools

As soon as the type of construction from drywall to the ceiling is chosen, and made important calculations you can start buying required amount material in order to install a suspended plasterboard ceiling. So what material will be needed:

Important! Do not forget that the technology of installing a plasterboard ceiling involves cutting the material to the size of the ceiling surface, so you need to buy accessories with a margin of 5%, especially if it is supposed to.
How to calculate components:

Also, a tool is prepared in advance, without which it is impossible to do in arranging the structure on the ceiling:

• perforator;
• drill on 6;
• roulette;
• sandpaper;
• a hammer;
• building corner;
• putty knife;
• chop lacing;
• screwdriver

The principle of marking the ceiling with a hydraulic level

If you do not have a power tool available, then it is not necessary to buy it, since it costs a lot of money, it is better to rent it. As for the hydraulic level, you can make it yourself. It is not difficult to do this - a special polyethylene tube is bought in a hardware store 0.8 cm in diameter and five meters long.

At the ends of the tube, flasks from ordinary droppers are inserted, which are marked with a felt-tip pen and a ruler. This structure should be filled with water and hermetically sealed. The hydraulic level is ready for operation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing plasterboard ceilings

For correct assembly construction, we will consider the installation of a ceiling made of plasterboard in stages. Any work on finishing and repair begins with preparation.

Surface preparation

Before installing a false ceiling, the ceiling plane is thoroughly cleaned. Cleaned off whitewash and peeled off plaster. Then two layers. As soon as the primer dries, you can start marking. For this, a hydraulic level or a laser device is used.

It is worth noting! It is easier to work with a laser level by carrying out installation single-level ceiling from drywall, but it costs much more. If you need a device only for the ceiling in one apartment, then you can simply rent it.

The hydraulic level, however, requires a certain skill and skill from the worker. Straight lines are beaten off on the walls, for this you need to measure the same distance from the ceiling, about five centimeters, if done, draw a horizon using a level.

Step-by-step preparation of the ceiling surface before installing drywall

You can also immediately note the direction of the rack profiles and the installation location of the suspensions.

Frame installation

In custody

If you doubt your abilities, then you can call a team of professionals, the cost of installing a ceiling structure is 460 rubles per square meter.

To properly make a ceiling from drywall sheets with your own hands, you will first need to prepare tools and materials. In addition, it is important to clearly imagine how the crate of profiles will be located, and how to prepare sheets and pieces of drywall under it, which will make up an integral structure.

To properly and quickly mount the ceiling, you will need the following tools:

• level (water/laser);
• screwdriver / drill (choose a drill with a hammer drill and with nozzles for making holes, mixing mortar and drilling);
• roulette;
• sandpaper;
• construction knife for cutting the sheet;
• spatula for applying putty.

Tools and materials

For quality work you still need to choose the right facing material.

This role is played by drywall sheets with a thickness of 9.5 to 12.5 mm. If you are going to make a false ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, then give preference to the material marked "moisture resistant".

As for the fire-resistant GKL, this material is practically not used for residential buildings / apartments, since it is not cheap and in ordinary apartment its useless.

Apart from facing material will have to purchase:

• profile marked UD-27 (guide);
• profile marked CD-60 (ceiling);
• direct suspension (it is not necessary to purchase, it is allowed to make it yourself from the profile);
• connectors for slats (called "crab");
• dowels (plastic) and self-tapping screws.

In addition, you will need an assistant, since it will be problematic to do everything yourself, without help, to evenly and correctly align and expose the surfaces.

Working with a partner is much easier.

Execution of work

Profiles allow you to make drywall constructions in one or more tiers. Whichever method is chosen, the installation process is the same, with the exception of the decorative form.

How the frame is made:

• The first step is to determine the height at which the crate will be located. At this stage, the location of communications that can pass inside is also taken into account: heating pipes, ventilation pipes, electrical wiring for sockets and lamps, etc.
• If built-in lighting is planned, then the distance from the surface of the real ceiling to the sheet is maintained at least ten centimeters. This is done for two reasons: firstly, the lamp itself will not fit in a smaller gap, and secondly, the lighting fixtures require cooling. In the case of using a conventional chandelier, the gap is made equal to 5 centimeters. Minimum Height structure is 3 cm.

• The level defines the starting point. A line is drawn around the perimeter of the walls. The guide profile (UD-27) is attached to the drawn line. Dowels act as fasteners. To do this correctly, you will need both a drill with a drill and a hammer.

Design layout

• They begin to work with a ceiling profile (CD-60). To do this, notches are made on the guide bar. AT this case also observe the step - 0.6 m. A ceiling bar is attached to the marked places along the entire wall.

To prevent deformation of the frame due to temperature changes, it is not fixed close to the wall or to the ceiling.

• Fastening begins with the installation of suspensions, which are mounted on the ceiling at a distance of 40 cm from each other. Next, a ceiling profile is attached to them, for which self-tapping screws are used.
• By transverse jumpers give the frame strength. Fasteners are performed using "crabs", while taking a step of half a meter.

As for the multi-level system, its installation is similar to the single-level one, which was discussed above, just to create it, additional strips are used, which create the levels.

The exception is the form of a multi-level ceiling. It is difficult to give a wavy outline to the structure, to create which you will have to wet the sheet with water and gradually form a curved element.

How to work with drywall: sheet cut and fasteners

Step by step it is done like this:

1. The sheet is cut. To do this, it is cut with force with a mounting knife to make a deep groove along which the gypsum is broken. After that, cut the second half of the cardboard.
2. The ends of the cut sheet are processed sandpaper.
3. If it is planned to mount recessed lighting fixtures on the ceiling, then in this case holes are made for them.
4. Next, drywall sheets are laid. It is important to correctly alternate the panels. First put the whole, then the half.
5. To attach the sheet to the frame, use fasteners- self-tapping screws.

When the above work is completed, finishing begins. Note that this process is not easy, so you should not relax at this stage.

Surface preparation: sealing seams and holes

Finishing work

Start by inspecting the drywall construction. They look for depressions, tubercles, cracks and other gaps. They are closed with putty. Putty seams and caps of self-tapping screws.

When the turn of finishing works comes, then complete freedom of action begins here - the plasterboard ceiling is painted, wallpapered or an option is chosen - it depends on personal preferences.

When choosing a paint, keep in mind that any composition you like will do. But still there are points that need to be taken into account.

If you are going to paint the ceiling matte paint, then remember that it is placed only on a non-putty surface. Such a composition is applied in several layers to cover up defects.

When using a glossy coloring composition, the ceiling is pre-putty.

Regardless of the type of paint, the surface needs a primer.

If you are going to glue the wallpaper, then in this case you will also need to apply a layer of soil. It should be noted that acrylic primer - the best option under wallpaper.

There is another question that worries many, what wallpaper to choose for drywall. The answer is simple - it is pasted over with any kind of wallpaper, regardless of the structure, thickness and quality.

What are the projects of plasterboard ceilings can be seen on the presented photos:

Metal frame for upholstery
Draft version of the ceiling with wiring for lamps
Do-it-yourself ceiling

Finally

How is a plasterboard ceiling made to make the room attractive? There is only one answer - it is important to mount it correctly. If you do this without observing the technology, the appearance will deteriorate, and the coating will last much less.

In contact with

Drywall is a very popular material for the implementation of the most intricate design solutions in the design of the ceiling. Drywall ceiling mounting technology is based on creating a basic flat surface. With its help, work with complex elements of the composition is facilitated, markup is simplified, and the design itself is more durable and reliable.

The easiest to install is a false ceiling, consisting of one or two levels of different heights. Installation technology two-level ceilings from drywall will be described below. Some of the subtleties of installing a plasterboard ceiling can be found in the article -.

Ceiling fixing markings

Installation of a plasterboard ceiling involves first marking:

• A perfectly flat horizontal line is applied to the walls, which is a feature of the ceiling level. It uses a long building level or hydrolevel (water level). A suitable length of the building level is about 1.5-2 m, he himself should have 4 risks in the viewing window: 2 on both sides of the air bubble. Such requirements for the tool make it possible to guarantee the accuracy of marking measures.

• The resulting line must necessarily close, that is, end at the starting point, displacements are not allowed. In the corners of the room, marking with a building level is carried out similarly to working with a water level. When marking adjacent walls, the level is placed not only on the surface of the walls, but also in the corners in the spacer.

Advice! The highest quality ceiling level markings are obtained using a laser level.

• The horizontal level of the ceiling is ready. Further, the markup is transferred to the ceiling, the attachment points of direct suspensions are marked. The result should be a grid with 60 x 60 cm cells applied to the ceiling. Most likely, the cells will not be equal to 60 cm along the edges of the room, then it is necessary not only to reduce their size, but also to make them symmetrical with respect to opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fixing drywall

Installation of the guide profile

A guide profile (PN) with dimensions of 27 x 27 mm is fixed around the entire perimeter of the room.

However, there are certain nuances:

• In places of contact between the PN and the wall, the profile should be glued with a sealing tape (for example, "Dichtungsband").
• The standard length of the PN is 3 m, when attaching such long elements, the connection to the wall must occur at least in 4 places.

• The dowel-nails used for fastening should have a "mushroom" hat, similar to a washer. Such fasteners create a durable and reliable connection, as it enhances the contact of the profiles with the wall.
• Installation of dowel-nails is best done in the classic way: screwing the dowel and then installing a screw into it.
• Gaps between guide profiles are not allowed.

Installation of U-shaped suspensions

U-shaped hangers are fixed according to the markings on the draft ceiling with an interval of 0.7-1 m. Indents from opposite walls should be symmetrical.

It is not recommended to use dowel-nails intended for vertical fastenings as fasteners. It is better to take plastic dowels and screws. For concrete ceiling dowels made of metal for heavy structures are suitable. It is important not to confuse them with frame ones, which are also completely made of metal.

In places where profiles are joined, U-shaped hangers are installed on both sides of the joint.

After installing the U-shaped profiles, they proceed to the installation of ceiling profiles (PP) with parameters 56 x 27 mm (60 x 27).

Installation of ceiling profiles

Installation of PP begins with fixing long profiles on the ceiling from one wall to another. In the intervals between them, transverse shorter profiles are installed. Cross connections are carried out using special fasteners.

Ceiling profiles are installed from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Further, using the level, the horizontal level of the PP location is indicated and it is attached to the U-shaped suspension. The connection is two-way, made with metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws).

Advice! When installing ceiling profiles, you must constantly resort to the help of a building level. Without it, the installation technology of plasterboard ceilings will be broken.

To make your work easier, the following recommendations are very relevant:

• it is convenient to use the building level, one of the sides of which is magnetic;
• profiles can be joined with special connectors, but this does not mean that the use of additional U-shaped hangers is no longer required;

• the joint of the profiles will be strong if a U-shaped suspension is pre-mounted on both sides of it.

It is advisable to fix the longest profiles parallel to the wall on which there is a window. This will divert attention from imperfections at the joints. drywall sheets, since the sheets will be mounted in the direction of daylight penetrating from the windows.

Fastening drywall to the frame

Solid sheets of drywall (gypsum plasterboard) are attached perpendicular to the long guide profiles.

Docking of sheets is carried out in the middle of the profile. To fix the GKL on the profile with high quality, it is better to do this work together. The sheets are connected to the profile with self-tapping screws, while the screws need to be “drowned” a little in the GKL - literally by 2-3 mm. The gap between the fasteners is approximately 25-30 cm, and from the corners of drywall - 3-4 cm.

Also, an indent from the edge of the GKL to the place where the screws are screwed in must be observed - 1-1.5 cm. The formation of chips on the edge of the sheet is prohibited. If this nevertheless happened, the self-tapping screw is removed and a new one is screwed in next (after 3-4 cm from the cleavage site).

The technology of installing drywall on the ceiling has a number of features:

• a narrow profile is located in the corners of the room, which complicates the fastening of the plasterboard, this must be taken into account during installation; there is a simple rule: the plasterboard ceiling is more beautiful, the fewer joints it has;
• when screwing self-tapping screws into drywall, you need to ensure that the depth of "drowning" is as uniform as possible over the entire surface of the ceiling - this will be done by subsequent Painting works better quality;
• the drywall construction in the room should consist of a material from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf), otherwise there may be height differences at the joints.

Gypsum board cutting technology and painting work

The marking of drywall sheets should be carried out with a rule of aluminum, previously cleaned of contaminants. If there is no tool, a flat rail will do.

• Marking is applied to the sheet, along which cutting will take place.
• To a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or rail) sharp construction knife an incision is made. The line should be straight and continuous.
• A sheet of drywall is placed with a notch line to the edge of the table and breaks with a careful but sure movement. If the incision was made correctly, the plasterboard will break evenly.

• The cardboard on the back of the sheet is cut off with a construction knife.
• The cut edges are leveled with a planer or sandpaper No. 4 or 6.

When staining drywall construction(on how to properly carry out painting work, see the article) be sure to use a paint bandage and a masking net, necessary for gluing the joints and junctions of the plasterboard with the wall.

Under marking is performed before the final painting. This will prevent possible stains, and also leave the marks under the fixtures visible. The final coating of paint is carried out towards the strongest streams of light.

Advice! If the room has not one, but two windows, then the last painting of the plasterboard structure on the ceiling should be done perpendicular to the window that faces the sunny side.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings, the manufacturing technology of which has been described and illustrated in this article, will achieve the desired result, provided that the instructions are strictly followed. Otherwise, there is a risk of creating an uneven and unreliable ceiling that needs to be redone.

A step-by-step guide with photos and videos on how to make a false plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. Nuances and subtleties of installation technology

In the framework of past articles, we dealt with ceilings and now we will consider drywall suspension systems. The design of the ceiling is a responsible task, on the implementation of which it largely depends overall picture room interior.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings allow you to create interiors in a room in various styles

Suspended ceilings help to level the level of the ceiling, while eliminating surface irregularities. In terms of design options, such suspended structures are very diverse: here and, and vinyl, and aluminum, etc.

There is nothing complicated in making a false ceiling from drywall with your own hands. This task can be easily handled by any owner who owns the basic skills of building and repair work. The main thing is to choose wisely necessary materials and carry out the installation, adhering to a number of recommendations.

Choice of materials and tools

The key to the reliability and durability of the design is right choice material. To assemble a suspended ceiling with your own hands, you should purchase the main components of the structure in advance, which include:

To fix profiles you will need:

To fix the hangers, you also need to prepare dowels 8x10. Connect the profiles to each other and attach the frame to concrete base galvanized screws 4.2x51 will help. To fix drywall sheets, self-tapping screws 25 mm long will be needed.

To install the structure, you will need tools:

The building level is needed to accurately mark the horizontal line for the installation of the guide profile. A two-meter level will be required when marking drywall sheets.

To fulfill Finishing work after installation with your own hands, you should prepare materials in advance, which include:

• Serpyanka - reinforcing tape for seams;
• Sealing self-adhesive tape;
• Acrylic primer;
• Putty for seams;
• Paint brush or roller;
• Medium spatula;
• Fine-grained sandpaper;
• Sound and heat insulation (if necessary).

A porous, self-adhesive sealing tape helps ensure that the frame adheres tightly to the concrete surface.

Gluing the seams with sickle

Preparatory work

The first thing to do before installing a false ceiling with your own hands is to solve the issue of lighting the room. At this stage, it is important to choose the type of luminaires to be installed, their power, location on the ceiling surface and the total number lighting fixtures.

The height of the frame will depend on these parameters, which will ultimately affect the height of the walls of the room.

Having designed the lighting of the suspended ceiling, they perform the wiring electrical wires, the ends of which are lowered down at the installation sites of lighting fixtures and secured with clamps.

Scheme: installation of the lighting system

To determine the level of the ceiling and create a perfect straight line for the arrangement of the frame, first make marks on the walls. To simplify the task, strokes are first applied with a pencil along the walls of the room on comfortable height at 1.7 m, each time guided by a laser or water level. Then they are connected with a paint cord into a single line.

Then, using a tape measure, measure the distance from the drawn line to the base surface, determining the lowest point of the ceiling.

Tip: To calculate the height of the future frame from the intended lowest point of the base surface, step back down to the height of the profile and add 5-8 mm to this value for the gap. When installing spotlights the height of the frame should be correlated with the size of their base.

Having set the distance from the mark of the lowest point to the horizontal line, a parallel line is drawn under the ceiling. It will serve as a guide for fixing the guide profile.

Mounting the frame of the suspended structure

A guide profile is installed along the perimeter of the room, placing it so that the lower end coincides with the horizontal line applied to the wall.

Metal frame for false ceiling

Having measured the required length of the profile, cut it with scissors for metal. Then, pressing firmly against the line on the wall, they fix it on the dowels, drilling directly through the profile. For creating solid construction the interval between the holes should be at least 30-40 cm, and along the edges and in the corners - 15 cm.

In places where the middle of drywall sheets is placed, additional fastening should be provided. A sealing tape is glued to each profile, fixing the structure to the wall with dowels.

Installation of the ceiling profile is carried out in several stages:

GKL frame sheathing

The principle of attaching drywall sheets to a metal frame is quite simple. They are raised to the level of the frame and fixed with self-tapping screws every 10-15 cm.
When installing drywall sheets, it is important to follow a number of recommendations:

Sheets must be fastened parallel to the longitudinal profiles, excluding the coincidence of the joints. In order to prevent possible cracks during subsequent puttying, it is necessary to make recesses with a knife in the places where the segments and whole sheets are joined.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

All sheet joints must be located strictly on the profiles. Between adjacent sheets always leave a gap of 1 mm.

The screws begin to screw in from the corner of the sheet, moving towards the center. They are screwed in at a right angle, "sinking" the caps into the sheet by 1 mm.

Tip: To cut the sheet lengthwise or across, you need to cut the cardboard shell with a knife on one of the sides at the intended point, attaching the rule. Then bend it along the notch line, cutting through the cardboard from the opposite side.

To obtain rectangular holes, it is convenient to use a hacksaw, and for round ones under the lamps - an electric drill equipped with a special “crown”. If it is necessary to make a round hole with a diameter of more than 80 mm, it is enough to drill several holes along the contour of the circle, and squeeze the inside of the formed circle outward.

Other secrets of mastery when working with drywall video:

Having sheathed the frame with sheets, the mounted ceiling is allowed to “settle” for one or two days. After that, they move on to surface finishing. First, cover it with a primer. Then all joints are carefully sealed with putty, and the seams are reinforced with reinforcing tape. In addition to the joints, "drowned" screw heads are puttied.
The puttied ceiling is left for a day. After the finishing material has completely dried, the joints are “sanded” with fine-grained sandpaper. The cleaned surface is covered with a finishing putty. After drying, the joints are re-sanded, carefully inspected by the light of a lamp, and in case of bumps and scratches, they are again covered with a finish. The final sanding is done when the material is completely dry, i. after 7-8 hours. Ideas for finishing options can be taken from the photo on the network.

Having mastered the technology of mounting a single-level suspended ceiling, it will be possible to move on to more complex structures, using interesting combined options instead of standard solutions.

Suspended plasterboard ceiling: photo

Alexander Dragun, Ph.D., site expert

The snow-white ceiling always looks stylish and harmonious, combined with any design decoration rooms. However, the monotony in the decoration of the upper part of the apartment begins to depress over time - you want something new, unusual, which neighbors and friends do not have. Modern materials and technology can solve this problem, gradually pushing whitewashing and painting into the background.

Master finishers offer various methods ceiling finishes. The following types of ceiling are most in demand:

Stretch- the most common technology for decorating the ceiling space. Its essence is to mount on plastic or aluminum profiles synthetic fabric (polyester) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) film. Wherein tension material it is desirable to have without seams. It is made to order after measuring the ceiling. That's why independent work according to this method of designing the upper part of the room is difficult;

Suspension. The technological process is somewhat similar to the previous ceiling design method. The difference in the rigidity of the frame (metal profiles are used if the ceiling is concrete, wooden beam with wooden floors or, as in attics, roof systems) and the type of material for ceiling sheathing - plasterboard, wood, metal, plastic, fiberglass or mineral fiber boards are fixed. Despite the complexity of the technology, such work can be done independently;

Rack. The surface of the ceiling is mounted from aluminum or steel plates treated with several layers of varnish. It is installed, as a rule, in unheated rooms (frost-resistant) or in rooms with high humidity(kitchen, bathroom);

Mirror. This type of ceiling space decoration is similar in design to a false ceiling. The only difference is that mirror plates are used instead of GKL. They visually change the volume of the room, doubling the height of the ceiling. This design of the upper part of the rooms was in vogue 30-40 years ago. Currently, it is very difficult to meet a mirror ceiling;

Hemming. This is a simplified version of a suspended ceiling. The ceiling surface of this design is also formed from rigid sheets. However, they are not mounted on a suspended structure, but on a wooden or metal frame fixed directly on the floor slabs. Such ceilings do not have the ability to make hidden wiring of various communications and use built-in LED lights;

Adhesive- the simplest and a budget option ceiling finishes. There is nothing complicated here - the technological process is even more understandable for a novice finisher than whitewashing or painting.

The essence of the method is gluing square panels of polystyrene (another name is styrofoam) 50x50 cm in size to the ceiling surface. The tile can be smooth or embossed, painted in one color or imitating wood, granite or plaster, simply painted or with a laminated protective film and etc.;

plastered. According to this technology, the ceiling is primed, puttied, and then covered with decorative plaster. Of the advantages of such a ceiling, it should be noted its durability and low cost, minus two: high labor intensity and standard view painted ceiling with simple painting;

Raster or cassette. It is assembled from small rectangles 60x10, 120x60 cm in size, which professional builders call cassettes (plates). They are made of glass or pressed mineral wool. Mounted to the ceiling with special frames. Cassettes have a variety of designs, which allows you to implement the most unusual ideas for interior design in any room of the apartment (house).

Plasterboard suspended ceiling

In the decoration of ceilings, there is a growing tendency to reduce the cost of repairs and labor intensity while obtaining the maximum possible aesthetic effect. Most beautiful decoration ceiling space is obtained by using suspended structures with sewn drywall. This technological solution for finishing the ceiling allows you to:

• hide the problems of the ceiling (skew, cracks, chips, visible joint, etc.);
• hide various kinds of wiring and cables;
• do not level, prime or putty the base of the ceiling, which allows you to save on labor and materials when carrying out these operations.

Plasterboard ceiling is a rigid structure made of metal frame in the form of a lattice attached to the ceiling with suspensions, and on the walls - to metal profile. Facing sheets, mainly drywall, are attached to the assembled grate with self-tapping screws.

Advantages and disadvantages of using drywall

GKL suspended ceilings have many advantages:

• long service life - 20-30 years;
• high strength - does not collapse when pressed or scratched;
• drywall work is not required special tools and skills;
• installation of the frame is within the power of any novice builder;
• good heat and noise insulation with the possibility of improving these characteristics with the help of a heater;
• does not require special care- sometimes it is enough to walk with a vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth;
• the widest possibilities in interior design - drywall can not only be figuratively cut, but also bent curvilinear forms can be obtained after soaking and drying with warm air;
• availability of materials at a price for all categories of the population;
• environmental friendliness - non-toxic, does not pose any threat to allergy sufferers, and therefore it can be installed in any room of an apartment or house (bedroom, children's room, etc.);
• ease of installation of any kind of lighting.

At the same time, this type of ceiling has its drawbacks:

• need constant repainting every 7-8 years of operation;
• steals the height of the room;
• requires finishing processing of gypsum board joints, recesses from hardware, primer and putty for finishing;
• becomes unusable when a small amount of water seeps from above, even when using moisture-resistant sheets;
• collapses with minor errors in the calculations;
• there is no possibility of installation alone - a minimum of 2 people is required.

As can be seen from the above pros and cons, choosing a false ceiling allows you to solve many problems with little difficulty. However, stretch ceilings are more popular with customers. Why is this happening?

Which is better - drywall or stretch ceiling

A comparative analysis of what is better - a stretch ceiling or drywall for decorating the ceiling space, shows:

• The service life of PVC film and drywall is different: film manufacturers in the passport indicate a 10-year service life (actually it will last about 15 years), and GKL can not be changed for 20-30 years - it is enough to repaint regularly;
• In terms of heat and sound insulation, both types of ceiling are approximately equal;

Important: if necessary, improve sound insulation or insulate the ceiling, mineral wool can only be used for suspended ceilings.

• In terms of strength, the false ceiling has an advantage - it does not collapse at the slightest touch sharp object or concentrated impact of small force, unlike PVC film;
• According to the elasticity of drywall and stretch ceiling parity is surprising, but the film can withstand loads up to 100 kg / m 2, which is clearly manifested during the flooding of the apartment by neighbors from above. In the experiment, a PVC ceiling with an area of ​​6 m 2 withstood 500 liters of water, and only after 2 hours small trickles of water began to appear due to the delamination of the film;
• Bring it to life as far as possible design ideas stretch ceiling gives a significant head start suspended structure especially in terms of texture and color.

When comparing the cost of installation, a stretch ceiling also has a significant advantage. If we compare prices in St. Petersburg, then for 1 m 2 of drywall installation, you will have to pay 2,500-3,000 rubles. per full cycle works, and for a stretch ceiling, prices start at 700 rubles.

When performing work on plasterboard ceiling independently, the costs will decrease and will amount to 700-800 rubles / m 2 (the price also includes transportation costs for the delivery of material in the amount of 200 rubles / m 2, this figure can change in any direction, but slightly).

The speed of work must also be taken into account. The stretch ceiling is installed in a day, it will not be possible to mount a suspended ceiling in these terms.

Conclusion: in some respects, a stretch ceiling has a significant advantage. But if the issue is considered in the long term, professionals advise installing a false ceiling - it is cheaper and there are no problems with the next repair.

Where can plasterboard ceilings be installed

Installing a false ceiling steals 5-10 cm of its height in the room (an increase in the distance between the floor slabs and the hemmed plasterboard is always caused by the installation of hidden fixtures). Therefore, in "Khrushchev", with their small size both in area and in height (2.5-2.6 m), false ceiling drywall mounting is not recommended.

Based on the sanitary and technical requirements for the size of the living space and the design approach to interior design, it is considered optimal to install drywall on the ceiling at a height of 2.7 m, two-level at an apartment height of 3.0 m and multi-level at very high, 3.3 m and more, premises.

Materials and tools

It is considered an axiom that before starting work, you should buy the necessary materials and assemble a set of tools. In this case, an exception applies. The exact number of profiles, connecting elements, fasteners and drywall sheets can only be found out by completing part preparatory work which, in turn, require appropriate tools.

In order not to break the section of the article into several parts, let's run a little ahead and consider the purchase of materials before the calculations, but relying on them, i.e. about the fifth stage of the preparatory work, we will tell before they begin.

In order to have an idea of ​​the cost of repairs, for those who perform the installation of a false ceiling on their own, we will summarize the costs of purchasing materials and a set of tools in tables.

Materials.

Name of materials	Quantity	Price per one.	Price
Drywall 3000x1200x6.5	6 sheets	360	2160
Profile UD (PN) 28*27*3000	7 pcs.	85	595
Profile CD (PS) 66*27*3000	21 pcs.	100	2100
direct suspension	126 pcs.	10	1260
Mount "crab"	55 pcs.	12	660
Self-tapping screws 3.5x25 mm	1 pack 1000 pcs.	300	300
Self-tapping dowels 6*60	266 pcs. (3 pack)	230	690
Screws "bug"	560 pcs. (3 pack)	100	300
Primer for plasterboard	5 l	100	100
Gypsum putty	5 kg	200	200
Grid "serpyanka"	2 units	50	100
damper tape	20 m		550
Water based paint	1 bucket 9 l	1900	1900
Electric wires	19 m	80	1520
light bulbs	11 pcs.	420	460

Attention: in some retail chains, the “crab” mount is marked with a suspension, which does not correspond to its function.

Thus, the total costs are 13,895 rubles. The cost of finishing 1 m 2 of the ceiling is 655 rubles. This is just for materials.

Need to spend part family budget to buy or rent necessary tool. Here, too, the numbers are not small.

Tools.

Tool name	Rent price	Purchase price
Perforator with nozzles	300	2450
screwdriver	200	3630
"Bulgarian"	200	2140
Laser level	300	2746
Hydraulic level	made by hand
plumb line	made by hand
Roulette	No	76
Level	No	100
construction knife	No	78
	No	92
Chopping cord (can be done)	No	55
Faux fur roller	No	29
cuvette	No	23
Spatula narrow (up to 10 cm)	No	100
Spatula wide (30-35 cm)	No	225

Preparatory work

How to make a plasterboard ceiling yourself? The technology is not complicated. Consists of preparatory work, frame assembly, installation of plasterboard and surface finishing. Installation of a suspended ceiling begins with preparatory work. They include 5 stages:

1. preparation of the premises;
2. drafting a project;
3. calculation of the amount of material;
4. marking the ceiling and walls;
5. purchase of materials.

Attention: on many sites that consider how to fix drywall to the ceiling, gross errors of various kinds are made. Leading portals are no exception. Therefore, before starting work, we recommend that you study several articles on the topic, critically digesting the posted information. Examples of inaccuracies:

• they offer to mount drywall only on longitudinal CD-profiles, which are also fixed parallel to the window (see photo);

Mistakes made when fastening profiles: a) longitudinal placed parallel to the window; b) there are no transverse profiles.

• incorrectly indicate the step between the CD ceiling profile (50 and 70 cm);
• it is recommended to retreat from the wall by 10 cm for the first line of the frame;
• hangers are placed at the intersection of profiles, etc.

Room preparation

In a new building, all the preparation of the premises for the installation of the ceiling comes down to cleaning it from debris. In a lived-in apartment, you must:

1. Remove all furniture from the room to provide unhindered access to any point on the ceiling;
2. If it is impossible to complete the first paragraph, close the chairs, sofa or wardrobe plastic wrap from dust generated when drilling the ceiling and walls under the dowels. At the same time, you need to be prepared for the repeated movement of pieces of furniture from place to place, to gain access to the entire ceiling space, and to clean chairs and sofas, because dust tends to sneak under the film, finding the smallest holes;
3. Clean the ceiling from loose paint, traces of mold (fungus), soot.

Drafting a project

For execution design work you will need a tape measure, a simple pencil (ballpoint pen) and a double notebook sheet, in a box. All work is done in several steps.

1. The length of each wall is measured with a tape measure, excluding ledges and niches. If they are in the room, the perimeter of the walls is additionally measured. The first dimension is needed to calculate the number of lines of the ceiling profile, the second, the perimeter, to determine the length of the guide profile.

2. The resulting dimensions on a certain scale are applied to the notebook sheet. The result should be a drawing of the ceiling.

3. A scheme for the passage of the frame is being developed, as well as places for attaching suspensions. The following points are important here:

• Longitudinal profiles can be fastened in increments of 40 or 60 cm, due to the weight of the drywall. The larger it is, the more often profiles should be installed. Builders adhere to the following recommendation: for plasterboards up to 9.5 mm thick, inclusive, a step of 60 cm, for thicker, naturally, and heavier ones, - 40 cm. Why these values? These figures are multiples of the standard drywall sheet width of 120 cm.
• Transverse profiles are attached only in increments of 50 cm (not 60 and 70 cm, as indicated in many materials), which is a multiple of the length of the gypsum sheet;
• With a distance between the longitudinal profiles of 40 cm, only they are attached to the ceiling suspensions, and “crabs” are enough for the transverse profile. At a step of 60 cm, transverse profiles should also be attached to the ceiling.

4. The marking of the passage of electrical wiring and the place of attachment of lamps is carried out.

The result should be a drawing similar to the picture in the photo below.

Material Quantity Calculation

To illustrate the methodology for calculating materials, let's take the real dimensions of the room, and not the simplified ones: 5.6 m long, 3.8 m wide, while the length of one of the walls is 5.9 m due to a ledge of 15 cm.

1. We determine the footage of the guide bars (PN), size 28 × 27 mm - they are attached to the walls under the ceiling, serve as a support for the frame:

• We calculate the perimeter of the walls: 5.6 + 5.9 + 3.8 x 2 = 19.1 m.
• We find the number of PS profiles: 19.1 m / 3 m = 6.36 pieces, where 19.1 m is the perimeter of the walls; 3 m - profile length; 6.36 pcs. - the number of strips required for mounting the ceiling. Since this quantity is not for sale, you will have to purchase 7 pieces.

2. We calculate the number of ceiling profiles (PS) with a section of 60 × 27 mm - a lattice for mounting the GKL is assembled from it. To do this, we determine the number of longitudinal and transverse rows. Since it is planned to install GKL with a thickness of 6.5 mm, the pitch for longitudinal profiles will be 60 cm, transverse - 50 cm.

Attention, very important: the construction industry does not stand still and constantly eliminates problem areas. Suspended ceilings constantly faced the fact that vibration violated the integrity of the drywall joints: they were covered with a network of cracks. That's why experienced builders on GKL glued wallpaper or applied decorative plaster. Today, the seams are sealed with fiberglass mesh, which eliminates the problem.

We will calculate according to the formula: K \u003d P / L - 1, where:

• K is the number of profile lines;
• P is the length of the room;
• L - step size (0.6 m).

Substitute the numerical values ​​in the formula and get the amount:

• Longitudinal rows: 3.6 / 0.6 - 1 = 5;
• Transverse: 5.8 / 0.5 - 1 = 10.6. As a result of rounding up, we get 11 rows.

The total length of the ceiling profile will be 68.6 m (5.8 x 5 + 3.6 x 11). On sale you can find a ceiling profile with a length of 2.5 m to 4 m. In our case, the most best option- 3 m. Then you have to buy 23 strips (68.6 / 3).

3. The length of the room is greater than the length of the profile, so they will have to be increased. In our example, the connection of the longitudinal parts of the frame will occur in the crab, since the step of the transverse profiles is a multiple of the length of the bar.

4. The number of "crabs" is equal to the number of intersections of the longitudinal and transverse profiles - 55 (5 x 11).

S = (D + 1) x N + (N + 1) x D, where:

• S is the number of direct suspensions;
• D is the number of rows of longitudinal profiles;
• N is the number of rows of transverse profiles.

Substituting specific numbers into the formula, we get that for work you need to buy 126 suspensions ((5 + 1) x 11 + (11 + 1) x 5).

6. Self-tapping dowel 6 × 60 mm (8 × 80 mm) for installing guide profiles and mounting hangers. They are screwed into the wall every 30 cm, 2 pieces are needed for mounting 1 suspension. A total of 266 pieces are needed.

7. Screw self-tapping "bug" LN 11 (3.9 x 11), for connecting the profiles to each other on the wall - 2 pcs., with a crab - 4 pcs., with a suspension - 2 pcs. You will need 3 packs of 200 pcs.

8. Self-tapping screws for fixing drywall 3.5x25 mm. They GKL are attached to the crate. You will need 1 pack of 1,000 pcs.

9. Drywall must be purchased 3 m long so as not to make inserts (with a GKL length of 2.5 m, you will have to cut a piece 0.8 cm long in addition to 2 whole sheets). In total, 6 sheets are required ((3.6 x 5.8) / (1.2 x 3)), where the first 2 digits are the dimensions of the room, the second are the length and width of the sheet.

Ceiling and wall markings

In a new building, with the help of a hydro or laser level, the horizon line is beaten off. Then, after numerous measurements, the lowest point of the ceiling is found. A minimum of 5 cm down is measured from it (when installing recessed fixtures - 10 cm) and a ceiling line is formed. For those who are faced with such concepts and methods for finding the ceiling line for the first time, we recommend that you view the article "". Here everything is one to one, only upside down.

In an apartment with a laid floor, there is no need to beat off the horizon line - the floor will successfully fulfill its role. After finding the key point (the lowest part of the ceiling space minus 5 cm), using a hydro level (laser level), a line is drawn on the wall along which the ceiling will be mounted.

On it, every 60 cm, starting from the wall, marks are placed for the passage of longitudinal ceiling profiles. A similar operation is carried out on opposite wall. Using a plumb line, a metal ruler (rule) and a pencil, vertical lines are drawn from the marks to the ceiling, after which ceiling with a construction cord (twine smeared with colored chalk), a mark is beaten off along which the profile will pass. If everything is done correctly, a series of lines parallel to each other and adjacent walls is obtained.

Attention: longitudinal profiles must be perpendicular to the window, regardless of the size of the room. Therefore, initially the markup is placed on the wall with a window, then on the opposite side.

A similar operation is carried out with another pair of walls, but with a step of 50 cm. The attachment points of plumb lines are marked at a distance of 30 cm from the wall and 60 cm between each other for longitudinal profiles and 25 cm from the wall with a step of 50 cm. This can be explained even more simply as follows : hangers are attached in the middle of each side of the rectangle formed by the profiles (see diagram).

Purchase of materials

This subsection is discussed above, in the "Materials and Tools" section.

Frame assembly

Plasterboard ceiling work begins with installation load-bearing frame. Let's take a look at how to assemble it step by step.

Step 1. Holes are drilled along the perimeter of the walls for attaching the guide profile. To do this, the guide is tightly pressed against the adjacent wall, while its lower edge must go strictly along the applied ceiling line. Marks for mounting dowels are drilled through the metal in the wall.

The first hole should be located 10 cm from the edge of the wall, the next - every 30 cm. There are recommendations to place dowels every 50-70 cm, but this reduces the rigidity of the structure.

Step 2 Holes are drilled at the marks, dowels are driven into them. A damper (sealing) tape is glued to the back of the profile to prevent sound waves from the wall to the ceiling, after which the guide is tightly attached to the wall.

To avoid possible deflection of the ceiling at the junction of two rails, experienced builders are advised to reinforce the joints. To do this, inside the profiles, at the junction, a plate made of tin, plastic or plywood is inserted and fastened with at least 2 self-tapping screws. Thus, the UD (PN) profile is installed around the entire perimeter of the room.

Important: The vast majority of authors recommend installing guides only for longitudinal CD profiles, which is fundamentally wrong. With such a frame arrangement, large parts of the GKL corners adjacent to the wall remain completely loose. The result appears within a couple of months, when the sealed joints are torn and one of the sheets sags by 1-2 millimeters.

Step 3 Direct suspensions are installed on the ceiling, across the applied line. In this case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the line is strictly in the middle of the fastener. You can fix them with self-tapping dowels (2 pieces for each suspension) or anchor bolts, which is more reliable. After fixing the suspensions, their mustaches, with hands or pliers, are bent down at a right angle.

Step 4 With the help of a fishing line or nylon thread, a ceiling plane is formed. Such an operation is needed to control the level of the ceiling in the center of the room - under its own weight, the frame tends to bend down. The thread (fishing line) is pulled along each line of the longitudinal profile. To prevent the thread from sagging, it is additionally fixed on the mustache of suspensions (2-3 are enough), bent up at the desired height.

Step 5 Mounted longitudinal ceiling profiles. First, the PS-profile is inserted into the groove of the PN-profile at the place of the mark and fastened to the guide bar with “bug” screws. Then, sequentially, it is fixed in suspensions. The horizontal is controlled by a stretched fishing line and a level. The protruding mustaches of the suspensions are bent to the side.

Step 6 At the intersections of the frame to the longitudinal profile, the “crab” fastening is screwed with “bug” screws - one screw on each side.

Step 7 The transverse profiles are attached, with the ends in the "crab", in the middle with a suspension.

Heat and sound insulation

If from above noisy neighbors or the last floor, the ceiling can be insulated mineral wool, which also absorbs sounds well. Inside the frame, it is fastened with the so-called "fungus" - a special fastening system.

Drywall installation

To mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, step-by-step instruction is given below:

• Drywall is brought into the room where it will be installed and left for 2-3 days. This will allow the GCR to adapt to new conditions and take a geometric shape for a specific temperature and humidity. Stored only in a horizontal position;
• GCR is cut to size: the sheets are shortened, a notch is cut out for the ledge;

Important: in our example, for odd rows of drywall, only last page. In even rows, always the first sheet is shortened by 50 cm, and then the last sheet is brought to size. This is done so that the seams do not match.

• With a construction knife, at an angle of 45 degrees, a chamfer is removed along the cutting edge;

• The first sheet is applied to the frame so that a technological gap of 1-2 mm remains near the wall - it is necessary for air exchange (ventilation) between the room and the ceiling space. The first self-tapping screw is twisted at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, the next every 20 cm. GKL are attached along each row of profiles, as well as along the edges. It is better to melt the heads of hardware into drywall manually, with a Phillips screwdriver, which will avoid twisting them. Along the edges of the sheet, at the seams, the screws are screwed in “out of order”, not against each other.

Final finishing

After the installation of the false ceiling, the most crucial moment comes: the finishing of the drywall. The appearance of the ceiling space depends on the quality of its implementation. Here it is necessary to highlight the following stages of work:

1. sealing of connecting seams and traces from the heads of hardware;
2. puttying the entire surface of the ceiling;
3. cutting holes for lamps;
4. painting the ceiling with water-based paint;
5. installation of lamps.

Seam sealing

The joints of the sheets are sealed with reinforcing tape, "sickle". Gypsum putty is rubbed through it into the seams. At this stage, it is also necessary to putty all damage to the sheet and the head of the screws.

Puttying drywall

Many recommendations for finishing drywall indicate required condition- application of a primer before putty. However, under modern putty mixtures (“Vetonit LR +”, “KR”, “JS”, “Osnovit Ekonsilk”, “Plitonit KP”, “Kreps KR”) a primer is not needed. Instructions for GKL putty can be studied in the article "", paragraph 2.5. "Gypsum board putty".

Cutting holes for lights

Using the scheme drawn at the beginning of the work on the installation of the ceiling, the installation locations of the lamps are marked on the drywall sheets. Holes are drilled with a removable crown for a puncher or electric drill. A crown can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is 140-350 rubles. The crown contains sets of cutting blades for cutting holes with a diameter of 26, 32, 38, 45, 50, 63 mm.

Painting the ceiling with emulsion

How to make backlight

Without design solutions for lighting, a suspended ceiling device practically loses its meaning - the same effect from a simply painted ceiling (except for the ability to hide some overlap defects - in this case, a simple ceiling repair is several times cheaper).

In practice, various lighting options are used:

• Contour - the light is directed from the bottom up, from the first level of the ceiling to the second, around the entire perimeter of the room;
• Directional - streams of light go parallel to the surface of the ceiling. LED lamps are also located around the entire perimeter of the room. They can shine inside the room, or vice versa - from the center to the walls;
• Standard - shades are installed in the GKL, the lamps shine down;
• Curly - all lamps shine in different sides, creating an unusual light effect;
• Point - the most difficult, reminiscent of the night sky, when, along with the usual LED lamps miniature LEDs are mounted, indicating a luminous point on the ceiling.

You can install such lighting yourself, without resorting to the help of an electrician. There is only one difficulty here - to come up with ceiling lighting for a particular room.

How to make multiple levels

In apartments (houses) with high ceilings, it becomes possible to install multi-level suspended ceilings. In this case, the number of interior design solutions tends to infinity. Special difficulties there is no ceiling space in this design. The order of work differs little from technological process for installation of one level:

1. plan in advance and draw on paper a layout of levels;
2. transfer the drawing to the walls and ceiling: mark the fixing levels of drywall and load-bearing profiles;
3. mount the frame for the first level;
4. bend the side profile to the selected scheme;
5. install the side frame;
6. mount the frame of the second level;
7. distribute the wiring under the lamps;
8. cut drywall for both levels;
9. attach GKL at both levels;
10. cut and then bend the GKL strip for installation on the side frame;
11. close the box;
12. carry out finishing processing of the installed ceiling;
13. cut holes for the fixtures, and then paint the ceiling;
14. install lights.

Thus, the installation of a false ceiling is not difficult. The only problem is that you cannot do this work alone.

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