How to cut chipboard without chips with a circular saw. Sawing panels from chipboard and other materials

landscaping 17.06.2019
landscaping

Chipboard is a chipboard, a common material. At present, it is widely used in the production of furniture, office and cabinet furniture, wardrobes, partitions, countertops, etc.

The main advantages of this material: affordability, ease of use, good thermal insulation properties, high strength, homogeneity of the material (no voids, cracks) Thanks to special additives, it becomes resistant to moisture, open fire, fungi.

Chipboard can be sawn, planed, milled, hammered nails or screws into it, drilled, cut. From it you can make various parts of almost any shape. Application possible different ways: laminate, paint, veneer, plastic or paper. The material is mainly used indoors. It is not suitable for outdoor work, after all, it is a tree. Chipboard covers walls, decorates residential and industrial premises. But with all the pluses, there is one problem - chips that occur when cutting. Here we will open how to avoid this problem and share some tips.

Preparation for work

Terms

It must be remembered that for quality work several conditions must be met.

  1. Install the hob correctly. The surface must be flat, stable, without drops. The chipboard plate must be fixed so that it does not “move out” during operation.
  2. The tool must be correct.
  3. It is necessary to saw the chipboard board only with a saw with fine teeth (this is important for coated boards, since a saw with fine teeth does not crumble the material).
  4. It is best to stick masking tape on the cutting line.
  5. You must strictly follow safety precautions.

Compliance with all the above conditions will guarantee good results from the work done.

Wizard's advice

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To Oil paint during storage, it does not dry out and so that a film does not form on it, put a mug of thick paper on the surface of the paint and "fill it with a thin layer of drying oil.

"The polyethylene film covering the balcony or greenhouse will be protected from breaking by the wind of the string, stretched on both sides at intervals of 10-15 cm."

"To make it easier to work with the concrete mixture, clay is usually added to it, but clay reduces the strength of the mixture. Add a spoonful of washing powder to it at the rate of a bucket of water."

"So that the screw, the head of which is hidden behind the barrier, does not rotate with the tightened nut, you need to throw several turns of thread or thin wire on it and slightly tighten the ends. Due to friction, the screw is well held in place. The ends of the thread can be cut off after tightening. "

"It is possible to cut a birdhouse notch without a brace. It is enough to split the front side of the board in the center and cut out half-holes with a chisel or hatchet required size and then put the halves back together. "

Wooden plugs for screws crumble and fall out of the wall. Do not rush to cut a new cork. Stuff the hole in the wall tightly with nylon from an old stocking. With a red-hot nail of a suitable diameter, melt a hole for the screw. Ra fused capron will turn into a solid cork.

" A carpenter's level can easily be turned into a theodolite by providing it with a sighting device from a slot and a front sight. "

"In order for two strips of linoleum to lie end-to-end, it is convenient to use a self-adhesive decorative film, placing it under the base of the linoleum."

"In order for the nail to go in the right direction and not bend when driven into a deep hole or groove, place it inside the tube, fixing it with crumpled paper or plasticine."

Before punching a hole in concrete wall, fasten a piece of paper just below. Dust and fragments of concrete will not fly around the room.

"To cut the pipe exactly at a right angle, we advise you to do this. Take an even strip of paper and screw it onto the pipe along the sawing line. The plane passing through the edge of the paper will be strictly perpendicular to the axis of the pipe."

"Turn logs or wooden beams a simple device will help - a piece of a motorcycle or bicycle chain, supplemented with a hook on one side and attached to a crowbar on the other side. "

"In order to be able to work with a two-handed saw alone, we recommend using a simple trick: move the saw handle from the top position to the bottom. "

You can cut a piece of slate of the required size with a saw, but it is better and easier to punch holes with a frequency of 2-3 cm along the line of the intended cut with a nail, and then break off the slate on the support.

" The best way glue the tile to the wall: take bitumen, melt and drip only four drops at the corners of the tile. Sticks to the dead. "

Shaped holes in the manufacture of figured window frames are most conveniently cut with a hacksaw with a turned blade.

"Making stained-glass windows is a long and difficult task. You can make a quick imitation of a stained-glass window. To do this, they take thin slats or rods of a vine, glue them to a sheet of glass, and then paint the glass and varnish it."

"If there is no dowel at hand, it can be made from a piece of plastic tube. The body of a ballpoint pen may also be suitable for this. Having sawed off a piece of the desired length, make a longitudinal incision, about halfway, and the dowel is ready. "

" It is known how difficult it is to hang a door when working alone. But it is enough to shorten the bottom pin by 2-3 mm and it will become much easier to work. "

"A very strong, non-shrinking and sufficiently waterproof putty is obtained from bustilate mixed with any powder - chalk, gypsum, cement!, sawdust, etc."

"If you need to screw a screw into the end of a chipboard, drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw, fill the hole with Moment glue (but not epoxy!), Screw the screw in a day. The plate does not delaminate. However, the resulting connection can only be put under load through day. "

" Fix portraits, photographs, paintings in wooden frames with glass it is more convenient not with carnations, but with the help of pushpins bent at right angles. The buttons are gently pressed with a screwdriver. Compared to nails, the risk of splitting thin frames is reduced to a minimum. "

"It is not so easy to wrap a screw in hard wood. If you prick a hole for the screw with an awl, and rub the screw liberally with soap, then after such an operation the work will go like clockwork."

To save time, the edge of the wallpaper can be trimmed with a sharp knife without unrolling the roll. To do this, you must first align the end of the roll and with a simple pencil circle the border of the Edge from the outside. Working with a knife, the roll must be gradually turned in the direction of folding.

For carrying at home large sheets plywood, glass or thin iron, it is convenient to use a wire holder with three hooks at the bottom and a handle at the top.

IF you need to cut a round stick into the distance, this work is most conveniently done using a template. It is made of a metal tube with a groove in the middle. The diameter is chosen so that the template slides freely on the stick.

It will become easier to work with a hacksaw if in its middle part it is increased by 1/3 of the height of the teeth.

If you attach a weight of about a kilogram to the front of the bow saw machine, it will become easier to work. The load must be made removable so that the saw can be used to perform other work.

" A waxy finish can be obtained by painting the surface with diluted PVA glue. To obtain desired color, you need to dilute the glue with water, tinted with watercolors. "

"Making a cover for an ax blade is as easy as shelling pears. A piece of rubber tube is taken, cut lengthwise and put on the blade. A ring cut from an old car camera protects it from jumping off."

"Do without clamps when gluing wooden frames a linen cord will help. Put four short loops on the corners of the frame and pull the frames diagonally with two long loops. The angles are adjusted with sticks that twist the middle loops. "

"How to silence a creaking floorboard? Between the floorboards, you need to drill a hole at an angle of 45 ° with a diameter of 6-8 mm, drive a wooden pin into it, smeared with wood glue, cut off the protruding end with a chisel and putty the floor surface. "

"To make it easier to scrape a floor covered with varnish or paint, iron it through a damp cloth - and it will become easier to work."

"Slight decay on wood can be eliminated as follows: the affected wood is removed from the healthy layer, and then impregnated with a 10% formalin solution. After drying, the area is puttied and painted over."

So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the theme is sawing chipboard without chips.

There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly saw chipboard only on professional equipment(that is, a panel saw).

The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

Method 5 - Fraser

Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). should be copy, that is, with a bearing.
Very clean cut. The possibility of carrying out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many, including several completely identical ones. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.

If you have at least once tried to cut chipboard at home, then you know for sure that this work is by no means simple and requires not only skill, but also the presence good tool. Laminated chipboard is especially difficult to process, during the sawing of which a lot of chips often form. That is why, many craftsmen, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut chipboard when buying, especially since many trading organizations provide such services and the price for them is quite acceptable.

Sawing chipboard is carried out using precise format-cutting machines, which will help to obtain blanks of a given size and shape.

Modern models allow you to evenly cut plate materials not only in the horizontal and vertical direction, but also at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you calculate and provide several options for a competent and economical cut in the form of a visual video file. sheet material(with the help of special computer programs) and, if necessary, perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work before sawing chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is best to cut chipboard with a manual milling cutter using homemade guides. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because when working with this tool, a table is required. In addition, with this method, you often have to change the cutters. But as a result, you will get cleanly processed, “cut-off” edges.

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to cut smoothly, and chips can form.

You can try to install a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, designed for laminate, on a jigsaw. To cut with an electric jigsaw, increase the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then to cut chipboard at home, we will prepare for work:

  • a hacksaw with fine teeth (the one that is designed for metal work is best). In this case, the teeth must be separated by 1/2 of the blade thickness and be hardened;
  • paper adhesive tape;
  • file for roughing the cut line;
  • sandpaper for finishing the cut line.

How to cut chipboard without chipping?

Before starting to cut chipboard, especially laminated, we cut a line with a sharp tool along which we will cut and glue paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

In order for the chips to be as small as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw under acute angle to the surface (no more than 30°). Movements should be smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate and sharp jerks.

If the chips still could not be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and then with a fine-grained sandpaper. It is also possible to mask all defects by applying, where possible, a flexible profile.

Figure cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration at home, and you will have to spend extra money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of the chips and notches that form when you cut chipboard.

Price for manual frezer can vary significantly, depending on the manufacturer, power, availability additional features. If you do not plan to be engaged in the production of furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard, follow these steps:

  1. having marked the contours of the necessary part on the chipboard sheet, we cut it out with an electric jigsaw, trying to cut it retreating only a couple of millimeters from the intended cutting line;
  2. we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood and carefully grind the ends with sandpaper;
  3. attaching the template to the part to be finished, clamp it with clamps and process it with a manual copy cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

At the same time, it does not matter which cutter (it is used with two or four knives). The only condition is that the knives must capture the processed thickness of the cut along the entire height. After processing, it remains only to stick the edge on the part. How it's done - look at the video:

What can not be sawn chipboard

If the amount of work is large enough, and the quality requirements are low, some craftsmen advise cutting chipboard at home using a grinder (an angle grinder, commonly called a "grinder"). In doing so, they use a disc designed to work with wood. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is fixed along the cutting line with the help of clamps. Cutting chipboard using a grinder can sometimes be seen on the video.

Attention important! This method is absolutely unacceptable, since the probability of injury during work is very high, especially if large diameter discs are used and the protective cover is removed from the grinder.

How to cut chipboard without chips?

chipboard- this is a well-known chipboard, finely sanded and coated with a paper-resin film. Lamination is carried out under a pressure of 25-28 MPa at a temperature of 140-210 C. The coating is durable, beautiful, resistant to mechanical damage and thermal effects, which makes laminated chipboard very attractive for furniture production and interior decoration premises.

Many home masters prefer independent production furniture and buy high-quality laminated chipboard in hardware stores or from manufacturers. Fortunately, the widest range of colors of laminated coatings makes it easy to choose the most suitable material. The surface texture is also varied: it can be smooth, imitating wood or a natural stone, embossed under shagreen or wood pores.

But in order to make with my own hands unique furniture or an exclusive interior, it is not enough just to buy laminated chipboard and cut it according to patterns. Thin laminated coating has a fragile structure. With gross illiterate actions, the cut turns out to be torn, and deep shells appear on the edges of the coating. To cut chipboard without chips and cracks, you need to know some tricks to work with it.

Rules for sawing laminated chipboard

You can cut chipboard at home with a hand saw with fine teeth, circular saw, electric jigsaw. In order for the work to go without a hitch, you need to:

1. Tightly fasten adhesive tape along the cutting line, which does not allow the teeth to damage the front of the coating.2. With a sharp knife, cut through the laminated coating and the layer of wood chips under it along the cut line. Thus, the saw will cut the inner layers of chipboard, acting on the coating only tangentially.3. When working, place a hand saw at a very sharp angle to the surface of the board.4. saw cut electric tools to carry out with the minimum giving.5. Using a sharp knife, cut off a thin layer of the coating edge on the obtained part at an angle of 45.6. Grinding the saw cut with a small file, processing the cut in the direction from the edges to the center.

So that during further operation the edge of the sawn chipboard does not form chips and cracks, it must be protected with special overlays. It can be self-adhesive melamine tape, C-shaped patch edging, T-shaped edge.

Do it yourself or order?

Custom cut will be smoother

  • Cut the slabs yourself with the available hand tools
  • Tools and materials
  • How to cut chipboard without chipping?
  • Figure cutting
  • What can not be sawn chipboard

If you have at least once tried to cut chipboard at home, then you know for sure that this work is by no means simple and requires not only skill, but also a good tool. Laminated chipboard is especially difficult to process, during the sawing of which a lot of chips often form. That is why, many craftsmen, faced with such a problem, come to the conclusion that it is better to cut chipboard when buying, especially since many trading organizations provide such services and the price for them is quite acceptable.

Sawing chipboard is carried out using precise format-cutting machines, which will help to obtain blanks of a given size and shape.

Modern models allow you to evenly cut plate materials not only in the horizontal and vertical direction, but also at an angle.

In addition to cutting sheets, they will help you calculate and provide in the form of a visual video file several options for competent and economical cutting of sheet material (using special computer programs) and, if necessary, perform edging. However, if for some reason you prefer to do this work yourself, you will have to do some preparatory work before sawing chipboard.

Tools and materials

If possible, it is best to cut chipboard with a manual milling cutter using homemade guides. This method is not very convenient when cutting large sheets, because when working with this tool, a table is required. In addition, with this method, you often have to change the cutters. But as a result, you will get cleanly processed, “cut-off” edges.

The electric jigsaw is the most popular tool for sawing chipboard.

Some craftsmen use a jigsaw in their work, however, in the absence of skill, it is difficult to cut smoothly, and chips can form.

You can try to install a bimetallic blade with teeth pointed inward, designed for laminate, on a jigsaw. To cut with an electric jigsaw, increase the speed, with a small feed, so that breaks do not form.

If such methods do not suit you, then to cut chipboard at home, we will prepare for work:

  • a hacksaw with fine teeth (the one that is designed for metal work is best). In this case, the teeth must be separated by 1/2 of the thickness of the blade and be hardened
  • paper adhesive tape
  • file for roughing the cutting line
  • sandpaper for finishing the cut line.

How to cut chipboard without chipping?

Before starting to cut chipboard, especially laminated, we cut a line with a sharp tool along which we will cut and glue paper tape with a sticky layer along it. This will help minimize damage to the decorative chipboard layer.

To keep the chips as small as possible, it is necessary to direct the movement of the hacksaw at an acute angle to the surface (no more than 30 °). Movements should be smooth, without excessive pressure on the plate and sharp jerks.

If the chips still could not be avoided, we process the cut first with a file, working in the direction from the edges to the center, and then with a fine-grained sandpaper. It is also possible to mask all defects by applying, where possible, a flexible profile.

Figure cutting

It is even more difficult to obtain curved surfaces of a given configuration at home, and you will have to spend extra money on purchasing a router that will help you get rid of the chips and notches that form when you cut chipboard.

The price of a manual milling cutter can vary significantly, depending on the manufacturer, power, and the availability of additional functions. If you do not plan to be engaged in the production of furniture professionally, then it is advisable to purchase an inexpensive model.

To cut chipboard, follow these steps:

  1. having marked the contours of the necessary part on the chipboard sheet, we cut it out with an electric jigsaw, trying to cut retreating just a couple of millimeters from the intended cutting line
  2. we make templates of the design radius from fiberboard or plywood and carefully grind the ends with sandpaper
  3. attaching the template to the part to be finished, clamp it with clamps and process it with a manual copy cutter with a bearing, removing excess material exactly to the intended line.

At the same time, it does not matter which cutter (it is used with two or four knives). The only condition is that the knives must capture the processed thickness of the cut along the entire height.

How to cut chipboard?

After processing, it remains only to stick the edge on the part. See the video for how it's done:

What can not be sawn chipboard

If the amount of work is large enough, and the quality requirements are low, some craftsmen advise cutting chipboard at home using a grinder (an angle grinder, commonly called a grinder). In doing so, they use a disc designed to work with wood. To make cutting easier, a guide bar is fixed along the cutting line with the help of clamps. Cutting chipboard using a grinder can sometimes be seen on the video.

Attention important! This method is absolutely unacceptable, since the probability of injury during work is very high, especially if large diameter discs are used and the protective cover is removed from the grinder.

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How to cut a pipe straight with a grinder?

When working with construction or plumbing tasks, you need to know how to cut the pipe evenly with a grinder. In the article, we will consider quick and easy ways of how to properly cut a pipe with a grinder so that the result is perfect.

Pipe cutting at 45 and 90 degree angles

If you need to cut the pipe at an angle of 45 degrees, which is often required when laying water and heating pipes. Often used steel, cast iron pipes, which have a cylindrical shape. AT installation work rectangular or shaped pipes are used. However, you should correctly cut the pipe with a grinder, so that you can easily connect it later. Therefore, you should carefully mark the pipe.

Some masters try to mark the place of the cut with a tape measure, but we warn you that the result is likely to be negative. And for a positive result, consider the following recommendation of professionals.

Take a sheet of paper or cardboard, A4 is better, fold it diagonally and wrap it around the pipe, where you plan to cut evenly. The edges of the paper must absolutely match each other. And the side of the paper that is closer to the end of the pipe was perpendicular to the axis. Then mark the cut line in a circle.

If you need to cut exactly at an angle of 90 degrees, then solve the problem quickly using again paper or masking tape. Wrap around the pipe so that the ends match up. Make an even markup and saw off.

How to cut a profile pipe straight?

Masters advise to use when cutting profile pipe square. To do this, apply the square in turn to the sides, and turn and mark with smooth movements. After the action, fix the pipe and cut. Prepare yourself a template that will come in handy in the future and save time. Better action produce with a grinder, so the cut will be smoother.

How to cut cast iron pipe?

When working with cast iron pipe, keep in mind that this is a fragile material. Therefore, we will direct a method with which it will be possible to cut such a metal without damage.

Before starting work, make notes for the cut, as in working with steel pipes. Submit wooden beam for support. Walk the grinder around the circumference of the pipe, making small cuts. Then take the chisels, insert into the groove and apply swipe hammer. Be aware that Bakelite cutting discs are used to cut cast iron pipes.

If there is no grinder at hand, to cut a cast-iron sewer pipe or other purposes, use a hacksaw, chisels or special pipe cutters.

How to cut a gas pipe?

Cutting a gas pipe is dangerous, so it's best to leave it to the professionals. But if you are confident in your abilities, then take a grinder, welding, hacksaw, gas welding to cut metal.

Trimming instruction:

  • Shut off the gas supply before work. Then release the rest of the gas from the pipe. To do this, set fire to the gas in the burners and wait for it to go out.
  • After the actions taken, cut. Using the welding method, the metal base burns out when exposed to high temperature. The result is fast and efficient. But remember that for pruning or rooting gas pipes again, you need experience.

Large Diameter Pipe Cutting Methods

For cutting large diameter pipes, such as sewers, there are a number of reliable tools available. Let's take a look at some of them in detail:

  • Bulgarian inexpensive and affordable option, but is considered not the safest in working with such materials. Once you decide to use this method, then be careful and use protective equipment.
  • A roller machine (pipe cutter) is such a tool adapted for such manipulations. The device is attached and material removal begins. The clamping force is adjusted by means of mechanical devices. It is important to note that machine models differ in shape, so consider the size relationship with the pipe before use.
  • Flame cutting is the most popular option for cutting larger diameter pipes, sheet metal. The cut occurs due to the action of a high-intensity flame, the metal melts and exits the cut zone with a gas flow. This method is convenient and efficient.

How to cut a pipe lengthwise correctly?

A quick way to cut a pipe lengthwise with a grinder:

  • Focus on the markup.
  • Use for this case a paint thread, which has found distribution when marking walls.
  • Before starting work, fix the pipe and with small movements, carefully saw the pipe.
  • It is better not to rush, but delicately and slowly process the parts of the pipe, so the cutting disc does not come off the marking lines. Remember safety precautions.

How to cut thin wall pipes?

Thin-walled pipes are made of non-ferrous metals: aluminum, copper.

How to cut chipboard with an electric jigsaw without chipping

Such work should be done delicately, as there is a high probability of deformation of the material. For cutting, fillers are used, for example, sand. Actions can be carried out using a grinder, a special machine.

Summing up, we emphasize that cutting metal pipes the process is complex, but anyone who wants to master can strengthen it. Using the advice of professionals, you can easily cope with the cut of pipes of various sizes and materials. Also, do not forget to process the edges of the pipes after the cut with a file or sandpaper. And the most important thing to remember when starting such actions is safety. When starting work, put on a special suit (casing), mask or goggles closed type. Your hands should also be protected from sparks, so use thick gloves.

Sawing panels from chipboard and other materials

  • Any home craftsman sooner or later faces the need to cut chipboard. It can be making furniture with your own hands or wall cladding. MDF panels or chipboard. As you know, cutting chipboard is not difficult, but making the cut even and without chips is not an easy task.

    Do it yourself or order?

    Custom cut will be smoother

    quality sawing chipboard difficult to produce by hand due to the large size of the sheets. Dimensions standard plate 2440x1200 is not the limit. However, if you often work with chipboard or MDF, it makes sense to get an expensive tool and work for your own pleasure. If you only need to cut a few sheets, you can go two ways:

    • Cut the slabs yourself using the available hand tools;
    • Order cutting chipboard in a specialized workshop.

    What to choose is up to you, and we will consider each of these options.

    Cutting panels at home

    You can also cut with a jigsaw

    It is quite possible to cut a sheet of chipboard or chipboard manually. True, in this case, you are unlikely to be able to avoid the appearance of chips and burrs, but you can try to reduce their number and size.

    There are several rules that should be followed when cutting chipboard panels:

    • cutting sheets must be done on a flat, solid surface. For sawing large panels, two large tables can be adapted (their height must be the same!);
    • in order to prevent the appearance of chips, stick adhesive tape or a good masking tape along the cut line, which will hold the edges of the laminated layer;
    • for sawing with a hand saw, select a blade with a grinding tooth. The saw teeth should be well sharpened. You need to drive the saw with a little pressure, at an acute angle to the surface, constantly monitoring its position;
    • to cut chipboard and chipboard with a jigsaw, the cut line should be scratched or even cut. It is best to use a sharp knife to cut through the tough laminate layer;
    • install a file with a small back tooth;
    • select the maximum speed of the jigsaw, turn off the "pendulum";
    • fix a flat rail along the saw line and guide the jigsaw strictly along it;
    • the jigsaw should be firmly pressed against the sawn surface.

    All these recommendations help to properly cut and cut chipboard, but chips, nevertheless, cannot be completely avoided. Therefore, if it is so important to get a perfectly smooth, straight line cut, without chips and traces of a saw, you should contact specialized workshops, where for a moderate fee any figure will be cut out of a chipboard sheet.

    Accuracy and quality

    Accurate cutting is the key to success

    Panel saws for sawing laminated chipboard and chipboard have a high quality of cut, which allows to reduce subsequent costs for processing cuts (grinding, removing chips and burrs, and so on). That is why on such machines it is possible to cut any complexity and configuration, which means almost inexhaustible possibilities in the production of furniture. Fantasy children's furniture, comfortable tabletops computer tables, figured through carved decorations in the doors kitchen facades– all this is possible with the use of machines.

    There are two types of panel cutting machines:

    • vertical, which is a strong rigid vibration-resistant welded frame (frame), installed vertically with a back deflection of 50 °, with guides located above and below, along which the saw beam moves. It is a bracket for the saw unit, which moves up and down along the beam, and also rotates 90 °, which allows you to make both vertical and horizontal cuts. The cutting precision is amazing. For sawing laminated chipboard, as well as solid, wavy or porous slabs, a special scoring unit is used. The rotational speed of the saw reaches 15 thousand revolutions per minute;
    • horizontal, consisting of a table for a plate, a carriage for moving the saw along the saw mechanism and the actual saw mechanism, consisting of one or two cutting units. The cutting units themselves are equipped with a main and scoring saw. The principle of operation is simple: the main saw cuts deep chipboard, and the undercut accurately and clearly cuts the bottom edge (veneer or laminated surface). The saw unit can also be tilted up to 45°.

    The miter saw is a "domesticated" and greatly reduced copy of a horizontal machine. It will not be possible to cut a wide sheet of chipboard or chipboard on it, but with small details she'll be fine.

    Sawing other types of panels

    MDF panels also need to be cut exactly

    Cutting MDF is different from cutting chipboard panels. high density material quickly blunts the teeth of the saw, so it often has to be sharpened or completely changed. It is possible to cut untreated MDF on a conventional machine, but laminated board requires a machine with an additional bottom saw.

    Sawing panels from chipboard and other materials

    This is especially important when sawing boards with a double-sided finish.

    Cutting fiberboard can be done at home using an electric or manual jigsaw. Of course, the file must be sharp, with a fine tooth, it is necessary to set the maximum speed on the jigsaw. Install the fiberboard horizontally on a support that should not interfere with sawing (between two tables or chairs, for example), secure, if necessary, with clamps.

    The electric jigsaw should be held with both hands, pressing firmly against the surface, moving smoothly, strictly along the marking line, without jerking and pressing.

    The same applies to working with a manual jigsaw.

    In the case when you need to cut a lot of sheets of material, it is more convenient to contact a specialized company. This will save you time and effort.

    Video on cutting chipboard with a circular saw

    Cutting chipboard beautifully and without chips is not always easy. See how to do it right:

    How to cut chipboard without chips

    So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the topic is sawing laminated chipboard without chips.

    There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly cut chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).

    The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.

    The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.

    Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then quietly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU FUCKED UP IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but I need to cut.

    This article aims to answer this question. The overview of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I apologize in advance), I will try to compensate for this lack of text????

    Method 1 - Scratch

    The grandfather's way. It used to be used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.

    After that, we cut along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not a step past. You can cut with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.

    In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, but they did not go beyond the scratched line.

    Detailed tutorial on this method

    The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly in line. So slow.

    Small cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple electric jigsaw. For this, several conditions must be met.

    Firstly, the file must be with a minimum tooth size (that is, for metal) and new. At the same time, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.

    Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turnovers set not maximum (slightly above average.

    The disadvantage of the method is that it is quite difficult to maintain a strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.

    Method 3 - Circular Saw

    To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, chips are formed much more (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top), as a rule, is clean. It breaks off pieces with opposite side(bottom)).

    You can cut like a free saw (it is quite difficult to drive exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of trouble with markings.

    So is the saw fixed in the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.

    Even when using a finishing disc, there will be many chips on one side.

    Method 4 - Undercut Sawing

    This is a modification of working with circular saw. Ideally, it will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured simple circular with custom tires).

    The whole point is, by analogy with a panel saw, to make two cuts strictly along the same line.

    This will help us cut on the tire (long ruler). The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm.

    At the same time, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it.

    If you enlarge the photo, it will look something like this

    The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the place where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.

    Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.

    Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.

    With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copy, that is, with a bearing.
    Very clean cut. The possibility of carrying out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many radius parts. including several that are exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.

    When you look at the price tags of furniture made from chipboard in a store, you are amazed at how expensive it is! But chipboard is one of the most available materials for the design of furniture with their own hands. Fortunately, all the necessary accessories are now on sale. And furniture projects, both on the Internet and in “paper” magazines, can now be found for every taste. So what's the problem? The main problem is to carefully cut the chipboard.

    Of the household tools, the most suitable for cutting chipboard is a hand-held circular saw. But even when cutting chipboard with its help, a number of problems arise: 1) it is very difficult to follow a strictly straight line, the saw wags; 2) chips are formed.

    Are there any ways to solve these problems? There is. It is about them that we will tell today. By the way, all these tricks apply to cutting plywood.

    Tip 1: Cut chipboard on the floor with full support

    Cutting with full support means that when you bring the saw to the end, the chipboard sheet being cut does not immediately fall off.

    If you want a very even and crisp cut, chipboard is better just cut on the floor. So you will 100% get a solid, stable foundation. The chipboard won't move even if you climb on top of it to finish the cut. You will also be sure that the cut piece will not fall off, split or fall.

    Place 5 x 10 cm blocks under the chipboard sheet perpendicular to the direction of the cut. The bars will have to be sacrificed, as the saw will go through them. The more stable your chipboard sheet lies, the neater the cut will be.

    Tip 2: Adjust the depth of cut

    The correct depth of cut affects the quality of the cut.

    Adjust the depth so that no more than half a tooth of the disc protrudes beyond the bottom edge of the chipboard or plywood (see photo above). This may not seem important to you, but believe me, the depth of cut greatly affects the quality of the cut. With this setting, the tooth cuts the material instead of chopping it, and the saw is also stabilized so that it vibrates less during the cutting process. Both of these factors make saw marks on the chipboard cut less noticeable.

    Position the saw along the edge of the chipboard, raise the guide and look closely to set correct depth cutting. By the way, at the same time it is good to check the saw blade for damage, because a saw with bad teeth will make a rough cut. Another point: the saw is designed so that its stroke goes up, so chips are most often formed on the surface of the chipboard that faces up, and the cut from the side of the surface looking down is cleaner. Therefore, when cutting chipboard, have a good, face down.

    Tip 3: For rip cuts, use a hard, long, straight object as a guide

    As a guide for making an even straight cut, it is convenient to use a narrow long piece of chipboard, 16mm thick and about 30cm wide, which was cut professionally in a specialized workshop. All you need is to tighten its ends with a clamp.

    The main difficulty is to position it in the right place for an accurate cut. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the edge of the saw support platform to the blade (see photo below).

    Add this value to the width of your cut, make marks on the chipboard at both edges and lay the guide board. You also need to factor in the thickness of the saw blade in your measurements.

    It's usually best to have the metal base plate of a circular saw rest against the edge of the guide to maximize the saw's stability while cutting.

    Tip 4: Check the guide before making the cut

    This is, so to speak, fine tuning. Make a mark with a pencil - a line 5 cm long, thus determining the width of the part to be cut. Then start the saw, press the saw support platform against the guide and score the chipboard. Make sure that the saw blade begins to rotate in the air before it touches the sheet being cut, otherwise the edge of the sheet may split. Now measure the distance from the edge of the sheet to the notch to make sure that you did everything and calculated correctly. It is better, as they say, to measure seven times ...

    Tip 5: Cut at a constant speed without stopping

    Cut without stopping and maintain constant speed. If you stop, there will be a mark on the chipboard or plywood.

    Cutting speed depends on many factors, including the type of saw blade and the sharpness of the blade, as well as the material you are cutting. In general, the sharp disk passes through the chipboard sheet with little resistance, as if it were melting the wood. If you feel like you have to force and push the saw, either you are sawing too fast or the blade is dull. Too much fast cutting tears chipboard fibers and leaves visible marks on the cut. Too slow can cause the disc to overheat and ignite the wood.

    Then you will get both marks and a burnt mark on the cut. That's why it's best to cut on the floor when you're making a long cut. You can crawl on your knees right on the chipboard, following the movement of the saw, without the need to reach or bend.

    Just calculate in advance whether the length of the electrical cable is enough for you.

    Tip 6: Get a CD large quantity teeth

    The more teeth on the disc, the sharper the cut will be. And, of course, the disc must be sharp.

    In principle, all the discs from the picture above are able to make a good cut on chipboard and plywood. As we wrote above, the more teeth, the better the cut. However, the disadvantage of the 140 tooth disc is that it dulls faster than the other three types. Especially if you are cutting chipboard. Take a disc with 40 or 56 teeth. It's better to keep another one in reserve. A 56-tooth blade is commonly used for cutting.

    Tip 7: Cross cutting is best done with duct tape

    The cross cut is perpendicular to the grain of the plywood, and even the sharpest blade easily leaves behind chips. it a big problem, the best solution of which is to buy a laminate cutting disc, which we wrote about above. However, you can perform this task using other disks. To do this, stick adhesive tape on both sides of the cut line. It will prevent the formation of chips.

    You need to remove it carefully, pull it in the direction perpendicular to the cut (see photo below) so as not to damage the chipboard laminating coating.

    And one last piece of advice. If you need to cut expensive material from the front side, cover the saw platform with duct tape so that it does not leave scratches on the surface of the sheet.

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