Rack ceiling on the balcony along or across. Suspended tiled (panel), slatted ceilings

Slatted ceilings are widely used for decorating ceilings in public and residential buildings. Most often they are mounted in rooms with high humidity: in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens, saunas and swimming pools.

The popularity of such ceilings is explained by their moisture resistance, durability, low weight of the structure, ease of installation and dismantling, ease of subsequent maintenance and low cost.

The slatted ceiling is a variety. Structurally, it consists of aluminum (plastic, steel) rack panels and a special suspension system for their fastening.

The rack panel (rail) is made of aluminum, plastic or steel tape, has a thickness of 0.4-0.7 mm, a width of 50-300 mm and a length of up to 6 m. If the rack ceiling is made to order, then it is possible to choose the required length up to up to a millimeter. The surface of the rail can be:

• smooth or perforated
• matte or glossy
• with a texture that imitates wood or leather.

Rack panels have a rectangular or rounded shape and come in various colors and shades. They can be located along, across and diagonally across the ceiling. For example, if the room is narrow and long, then it is better to place the slats across to visually expand the space.

Slatted ceilings may have different kinds inter-rail joints:

• open (a gap of about 1.5 cm is obtained between the slats, which can be closed with a decorative profile)
• closed (rails overlap each other)
• gapless (rails are mounted close to each other).

The rack ceiling includes the following suspension system:

• Universal carrier rail (traverse, comb, stringer) - a galvanized steel bar with locking grooves for installing rails. Rack panels are attached to the bus by snapping.
• The adjustable suspension consists of a bracket that is attached to the carrier rail and a rod attached to the main ceiling.
• The distance to the base ceiling is usually from 5 to 12 cm. The choice of distance depends on your desire and the presence of communications on the ceiling.
• Corner profile (wall corner) is necessary to close the joints between the ceiling and walls.

Now that we have figured out the rack ceiling device, you can start installing it.

Mounting a rack ceiling

For work you will need:

• building level
• marker
• roulette
• perforator
• drill
• metal scissors
• ruler
• sharp knife
• dowels
• self-tapping screws

1. In any upper corner of the room, using a tape measure, we measure the distance at which the rack panels will be installed (at least 4 cm from the base ceiling).
2. We make a mark on the wall and, using the building level, transfer it around the perimeter of the entire room (step no more than 1m).
3. We measure the length of the wall according to the marks made and cut off the corner profile of the required length.
4. If there are no holes for fasteners in the profile, then they must be drilled with a drill. We make the first hole at a distance of 5 cm from the end of the plinth, the next - after 50-60 cm, etc.
5. We apply the profile to the wall according to the marks made earlier and put dots in the drilled holes with a marker.
6. We make holes in the wall and insert the dowels.
7. We fix the profile on the screws.
8. We repeat the same for the rest of the walls (items 3-7).
9. Profile on inside corners fastened end-to-end, at the outer corners - at an angle of 45 degrees.
10. With the help of a tape measure, we mark the attachment points of the load-bearing tires. The first mark will be at a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, the next - after 90-100 cm, parallel to each other.
11. We measure the required length of the tire, cut off the excess with scissors for metal.
12. We apply the carrier rail to the ceiling and mark two holes with a marker, which are located at a distance of 30 cm from the beginning and from the end of the rail.
13. The number of holes marked between these two points will depend on the width of your ceiling. Holes are usually made every 1.2-1.5 m.
14. Repeat the above operations for the rest of the supporting tires (paragraphs 11-13).
15. We make holes with a puncher at the points we marked, insert the dowels.
16. You can mount the support rail directly to the base ceiling (at a short distance) or to adjustable hangers. In the first case, the tire is attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws. The second option provides for mounting adjustable suspensions to the base ceiling, which have a special bracket for fixing the tire.
17. The distance between the corner profile and the support rail must be 1 cm.
18. We measure the required length of the rack panels. The length of the rails should be equal to the distance between opposite walls minus 0.3-0.5 cm.
19. We lay the rack panel on the corner profile, first diagonally, then carefully straighten it and snap it into place with the help of the carrier rail clamps.
20. We install the second rail in the same way next to the first.
21. We install the third rack panel at the other end of the ceiling in the second or third row of clamps.
22. If necessary, we adjust the height of the tires using the screwing depth of the self-tapping screws (the first mounting option) or adjustable suspensions (the second mounting option).
23. We install the remaining rack panels.
24. If the last rail does not fit in width, then it must be cut. For this we note desired distance along the entire length of the slatted panel, draw a deep line along the ruler with a sharp knife, bend and unbend the panel until it breaks. If the rail is long, then it is better to make transverse cuts and break off each part separately.
25. We install the trimmed panel and fix it with wooden spacers or small pieces of the corner profile.
26. We do room cleaning.

If your plans include the installation of spotlights in the slatted ceiling, then this must be taken into account when determining the height of the ceiling. The wiring is laid before the installation of the slatted panels (item 18), holes for the lamps can be made using a hole saw-nozzle on a drill.

The suspended structure in the bathroom performs a whole range of technical functions: it masks defects in the ceiling surface, serves as an excellent frame for built-in lighting, and allows you to create a unique project in your favorite style.

Professionals can easily cope with both drywall and tensile structure, and amateurs better start with more simple option: independently install a slatted ceiling in the bathroom - quickly and at no extra cost.

The prototype of modern plastic and aluminum panels is the usual wooden lining, which is still used for wall and ceiling cladding.

Narrow long slats of various lengths are easy to install, so they are often used for finishing cottages, utility rooms, cellars, attics.

With the advent of lighter and decorative panels from plastic, the choice of decorating suspended structures has expanded - the most suitable for the renovation of bathrooms, toilets and kitchens.

Thanks to the versatility of plastic, slatted ceilings have become a godsend for decorating the ceiling in the bathroom. Their advantages are undeniable: inexpensive cost, quick installation, varied design, prompt repair

According to the material of manufacture, all popular panels that our supermarkets offer are divided into plastic and aluminum. PVC slats have a standard length of 2.5 m - 3 m - 4 m (there are also 6-meter parts, but they will not be required for typical bathrooms), but they differ in width.

Panels 25-30 cm wide after installation look like a continuous coating, as they do not have pronounced borders or inserts. We will dwell in more detail on elements that outwardly resemble narrow slats, that is, they have a width of 85 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm.

Aluminum slats are resistant to water splashes and temperature extremes, and their diverse design - from traditional white coating to bright gilding - allows you to realize fantastic projects.

Reiki differ not only in size, but also in shape. Among the builders there are "their" divisions into categories.

For example, elements with right angles and a clear configuration are usually called German, with rounded edges - Italian, and unusual, characterized by complex shape and additional difficulties during installation - design.

Here are some types of decorative plastic panels:

Elements with soft, rounded corners, the length of the main parts and inserts - 3 m or 4 m, perforated options are possible (hole diameter - 1.5 mm)

V-shaped decorative elements that play the role of inserts between the main, background details. Possible colors: white, gold, silver matte or glossy, chrome

Decorative cube-shaped inserts that fill the gaps in the ceiling open type. The color of the inserts (gold, silver, chrome, white) is selected in contrast with the main background

When choosing certain details, it is necessary to focus on wall cladding, furniture color, lighting features and make sure that the design of the rails does not contradict the chosen style.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling: detailed photo installation instructions

Consider how to quickly install a rack ceiling in the bathroom, using a minimum of inexpensive parts. This manual is useful for beginners to get acquainted with the details of suspended structures.

The installation procedure is the same, regardless of the use of aluminum, steel or plastic parts.

Selecting the point in time to install the structure

Do not forget that the construction false ceiling- just one of the stages of bathroom renovation, therefore, it is necessary to determine in advance its place among other works.

Most often, construction activities are moving in the direction from the bottom up, that is, first I lay the floor, then the walls are tiled, and finally the suspended structure is erected. This is the most correct and logically explainable order.

The installation of traverses and the assembly of rails is a quick and “clean” process compared to, say, wall decoration with porcelain stoneware. There is practically no dirt and debris, and the most difficult event is the precise installation of the perimeter and the installation of suspensions.

Do not forget that in parallel with the installation of suspended elements, it is necessary to carry out work on the installation of lighting fixtures - spotlights, chandeliers or hidden lighting

Finishing ceiling work allows you to adjust the height of the walls, mask the flaws in their decoration. For example, a small gap between the tile and the ceiling is easy to cover with a suspended structure.

And here it would not be out of place to recall another advantage of the rack ceiling: it can always be done without prior preparation, simply by setting the profile and “typing” required amount panels.

Simply put, this a budget option a ceiling that can be erected or dismantled at any stage of the construction process.

We will provide instructions for the construction of the rack ceiling white color. If desired, it can be decorated with colored inserts, install spotlights or use slats of a different size.

Preparatory stage - materials and tools

First of all, you will need tools for marking, since correctly measured distances and intervals are a guarantee of a beautiful result. So, you need:

• marker;
• square;
• roulette;
• building cord (optional);
• level (preferably laser).

With the help of these simple devices, you can carry out all the preliminary work. The first step will be the installation of a guide profile, which will run along the perimeter of the entire room, so it is important to calculate the height of the future structure.

The tip can be the top one. ceramic tile, and its edge is a kind of landmark.

The laser level is necessary at any stage repair work in the bathroom, especially when marking. With its help lay tiles, cladding panels, mount suspended structures of various types

If on the walls plastic panels or a layer of plaster, you will have to count from the floor. Why not from the ceiling?

The fact is that in some houses ceiling tiles lie unevenly, and if you focus on them, you can make a design with a slope - this defect will immediately catch your eye.

In addition to marking tools, you will need scissors (or construction knife), drill (perforator), screwdriver, screwdriver. Plastic is easily cut with an ordinary construction knife.

But if you chose aluminum panels, you will have to get special scissors for metal. As you can see, there are few tools.

Metal shears can be useful for cutting aluminum panels, steel rails and other metal parts, including decorative corners and inserts

List of required materials:

• ceiling panels - slats made of plastic or aluminum with a width of 85 to 150 mm;
• guide metal profile;
• traverses (bearing tires for attaching rails) and suspensions for them;
• decorative plinth;
• fasteners (dowels, screws).

If the width of the bathroom is only one and a half meters, then it makes sense to purchase 3-meter parts, divide them in half and choose a “transverse” design.

For a large room, respectively, we buy 4, less often - 6-meter panels. If you want to decorate the ceiling with decorative inserts, consider their width when purchasing the main details.

The calculation of the supporting profile is as follows: if the length of the bathroom does not exceed 2.5 m, then 2 rows are enough, that is, a maximum of 5 m. Knowing the number and length of the tires, we calculate purely suspensions - with light ceiling 2-3 hangers for each tire.

When buying a kit of parts, take care of spare parts that may come in handy for the next repair.

Installation of guides around the perimeter

Suppose we measured the height of the flow and marked the line along which the guides of all four sides will pass. The distance to the ceiling is from 10 to 20 cm.

It is impossible below, since the room will look cramped, they are also not recommended above to leave room for technical maneuvers - lighting system devices. Before installation, we check the accuracy of measurements with a level.

We cut the carrier profile into segments equal to the length of the sides using metal scissors.

We apply each segment with the wide side to the intended line, drill holes right through the metal, fix it with screws with dowels. The distance between the holes is approximately 40 cm

If we put the profile on top of the tile, make sure that the marks do not fall on the junction of two tiles. In this case, it is better to use not a puncher for drilling, but a drill and a special drill for ceramics.

We place guides alternately on all walls, in corner joints inserting one profile into another. When installing each new segment, we use a laser level - any distortion will be noticeable after the general installation

The result should be a smooth frame encircling the entire room. It will serve as a support for the installation of rails and perform a decorative function.

Installation of suspensions and traverses

We fix the hangers (perforated metal plates on which the tires will be mounted) on the stream by drilling recesses for the dowels in its surface.

We hammer the dowels into specially designed holes with a hammer, then insert 2 screws each and tighten them with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

When the suspensions are firmly fixed, we bend both ends of each of them down. Between the ends there will be traverses - load-bearing tires, the basis for installing panels

We take the tires, bring them to the hangers and securely fasten them with screws at the required height. We bend the remaining free ends of the hangers up so that they do not interfere with the fastening of the rails.

At correct installation the ends of the traverses should almost touch opposite walls and be above the carrier profile. The position of each fixed part is checked with a level

It happens that the tire is not enough for the entire length of the room. In this case, it must be increased. At the end of the installed traverse, we mount another suspension, bring the missing segment end-to-end and fix the structure.

On this, the draft work is completed, it remains to assemble the ceiling, laying out the slats according to the planned project (along, across, diagonally, combined).

Ceiling Assembly

We take out the rails from the packages, remove the protective film. Up to this point, it is not recommended to unpack plastic or aluminum panels so as not to inadvertently damage the edges or the top decorative layer.

We cut segments along the length or width of the room.

Alternately, we take the rails and, one after the other, insert the ends into the guide wall profile, and snap the central part onto the traverse (on which special teeth are intended for this)

The last rail does not always fit in width, sometimes it needs to be trimmed. We snap the last detail - the ceiling is ready.

In our case, the ceiling closed type, that is, the panels fit snugly to each other, forming an integral coating, without gaps. If you plan to complicate the installation decorative elements, then gaps should remain between the slats - along the width of the inserts. We install decorative inserts together with the main ones, alternating them

It remains to complete the installation of the lighting system.

Installation of fixtures

We are not interested in mounting the chandelier, as it does not fit well with the slatted ceiling. The simplest and best option is a set of spotlights. Their location can be any:

• along the perimeter of the room;
• along long walls;
• diagonally;
• over work areas;
• in a checkerboard pattern, etc.

In fact, the lion's share of the system is prepared in advance. Even before attaching the rails, it is necessary to lay the wiring, bring it to the fixing points of the fixtures, and cut holes in the panels to size.

In this case, after mounting the ceiling, it remains to fix the fixtures and screw in the lamps.

Best for baths LED lamp, which do not heat the ceiling surface, save energy and give light close to natural light

The appearance of the lamp can be anything, but it must match the color of the panels and match the style of the room.

The most popular models - products round shape silver or gold, but there are hundreds of original lamps decorated with rhinestones, Czech glass, colored shades or pendants.

Design secrets of slatted ceilings

Having decided to build a slatted ceiling in the bathroom or in the toilet with your own hands, consider its design even before starting work. You can achieve an incredible effect, given the texture or location of the rails.

The simplest option, which can be called universal, is white panels without inserts and patterns, with built-in lights. It is suitable for the bathroom classical style or in any modern version.

The main advantage of white glossy and matte slats is their excellent compatibility with the whole gamut of colors and textures. All shades of white are in harmony with both pastel wall cladding and dark tiles.

The black ceiling with narrow inserts of the same color looks presentable, especially against the background of chrome accessories and shiny plumbing.

Be careful with black slats. Do not forget that dark tones narrow the space, and the black ceiling, accordingly, visually reduces the height of the walls. For the opposite effect, use reflective gloss or mirror inserts.

Popular slatted ceiling with silver or gold accents. It has two advantages: it increases the decorative possibilities of panels of any color and fits well into environments filled with chrome details.

Try not to mix gold and silver in the bathroom interior or use them in large quantities: colors lose their attractiveness, become too catchy, attract all the attention. Light silver or gold decor, on the contrary, looks elegant and appropriate.

If you have sufficient skill in the installation of suspended structures, you can experiment and create a complex combined structure, playing with the texture and arrangement of rails of different colors.

One of the design rules concerns moderation in use. bright colors or shiny details. If the ceiling in the bathroom is too expressive, try to minimize the decoration of the walls.

Finally - one of the options for installing a combined suspended structure.

Slatted ceilings are widely used for finishing rooms with high humidity and pollution, such as kitchens, bathrooms, and laundry rooms. The reason for their popularity is the lightness of the material, its durability, moisture resistance and ease of care. Mounting it is also easy. To figure out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you must first understand what it is.

Rail material and ceiling design

Slatted ceilings consist of aluminum, steel, plastic slats (5 to 30 cm wide and 0.4-0.7 mm thick) and a suspension mounting system.

Laths are matte or glossy, smooth or textured and may differ in seams. The way the rails are connected to each other is: open, closed and gapless.

The mounting system consists of the following parts:

• Carrier rail - combs - galvanized strips with locking teeth, under which the rails are inserted. The design of the edge of the rail is such that the bottom, hidden edge, snaps into place with a fastener, and the top, front one, covers it.
• Adjustable suspension consisting of a bracket attached to the comb and a rod attached to the base ceiling.
• Corner, wall, profile, which is needed to close the joint between the wall and the suspended ceiling.

The suspension height can be from 5 to 15 cm. It cannot be less than 5 cm (4 cm is the tire width), and how much more depends on the size of the communications that are bred under the ceiling and the design solution.

It is necessary to decide whether the rails will be attached along or across the room. long and narrow room with longitudinal slats on the ceiling, it will seem even longer and narrower. Therefore, the decision must be made based on the dimensions of the room.

Mounting method for rack ceiling

Before figuring out how to assemble a rack ceiling, you need to stock up essential tool. For work you will need:

• building level 1.2-1.6 m;
• ruler, tape measure;
• marker;
• sharp knife, metal scissors;
• dowels, self-tapping screws;
• drill.

How to assemble rack aluminum ceiling: Installation algorithm:

1. In the upper corner of the room at a distance of not less than 4 cm, we make a mark along which the rails will be attached.
2. Using a level, this mark must be moved around the entire perimeter of the room in increments of no more than 1 m.
3. We measure the length of the wall, parallel to which the strips will be mounted, mark and cut off the corner profile of the desired length.
4. We drill holes for fastening the profile - 5 cm from the wall and further every 50-60 cm.
5. We apply the profile to the marked line on the wall and through the holes we outline the attachment points.
6. We drill holes, apply a profile, insert dowels and fasten the profile on self-tapping screws.
7. We also attach the corner profile to the rest of the walls of the room.
8. We fix the carrier rail perpendicular to the wall along which the rails will go. With a tape measure, we measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the wall, and then every 90-100 cm - to the end of the wall. The distance from the tire to the corner profile should be about 1 m.
9. We strengthen the carrier rail with the help of suspensions. To do this, you need to attach it to the ceiling and mark the attachment points 30 cm to the left and right of the wall. Between them at a distance of 1-1.5 m we mark additional fasteners. We also make markings for all tires.
10. We punch holes at the marked points with a puncher, insert dowels into them.
11. The rail can be mounted directly to the ceiling or on adjustable hangers, depending on the required hanging height.
12. The length of the rack ceiling panels should be equal to the length (width) of the ceiling, less than 0.3-0.5 cm. We measure and cut right amount panels.
13. We proceed to the installation of the panels: we first insert the panel diagonally, and then align it along the wall and snap it into place with the carrier rail clamps.
14. We insert the second behind the first rail, matching it along the seam with the previous one and so on to the opposite end of the wall.
15. The suspension height must be adjusted by the depth of the screwed-in screws or suspension adjustment (depending on which mounting option is chosen).
16. If the last rail does not completely fit in width, you will have to cut it: outline a line along which it will need to be cut with a sharp knife along the ruler. The rail must be bent and unbent along this line until it breaks along it. On a long rail, it is better to make cuts to the line and break off its extra half in parts.
17. The trimmed panel is installed under the corner profile, fixed in it with wooden spacers. The rack ceiling is ready.

If built-in lights are installed in the ceiling, then mark their location, make holes and insert the lamp housings in advance, and remove the wiring during the installation process.

The kitchen and bathroom are high humidity areas. When water evaporates, it rises to the ceiling and settles on it in the form of small droplets (condensate). The main load in such rooms with high humidity lays on ceilings. Perfect solution- installation of a slatted ceiling in the bathroom. The material is not afraid of moisture, it is very easy to care for it, and everyone can master the installation if desired.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the rack ceiling in the bathroom, let's find out its strengths and weak sides. And to begin with, let's find out that such materials for finishing rooms with high humidity first appeared on the Russian market in the 90s, just when most people began to make “European-style repairs” in their homes.

Ceiling materials were supplied to Russian markets from Germany, therefore, like any novelty, they were inaccessible to many Russians. Anyway, high cost building material did not prevent people from installing similar structures in the bathroom and kitchen, since the high cost and beautiful appearance justify these costs.

Currently, in building supermarkets you can find several types of slatted ceilings: these are traditional white slats, as well as matte and mirror designs. With the help of beautiful ceilings, even the most daring design ideas can be translated into reality.

The main advantages of the rack ceiling:

• If you choose an aluminum slatted ceiling for your bathroom, it will last a long time. Such material is not afraid of moisture, tolerates temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity. It is allowed to install the ceiling in the toilet, bathroom and kitchen;
• the ceiling is a suspended structure, with its help you can make the ceilings perfectly even without significant labor costs;
• protection of premises high humidity, the spread of mold and fungus;
• the simplicity of the rack ceiling allows you to choose this finishing material even for those people who have never been involved in the installation of suspended structures;
• there is no need to pre-prepare the surface;
• ease of care - the ceiling is easily wiped with a slightly damp cloth;
• a large selection of material colors;
• repels dust and dirt;
• service life is 20 years;
• suspended structure made of aluminum is a harmless material. Such ceilings can be installed in living rooms;
• slatted ceilings look presentable, and if you choose the tone finishing material with a touch of walls and furniture, then the room will look more advantageous.

Of the minuses of ceilings, only two can be distinguished - this is the cost of materials and the fact that installing a slatted ceiling in the bathroom will require some skill and the presence of additional devices (for example, a retractable ladder).

What is this finishing material

The ceiling can be made of steel and aluminum. This is a profile with teeth located at the same distance, for which the ceiling rails are fixed. Each rail (its type) has its own traverse. So that no gaps form during the installation of the ceiling, it is advisable to buy traverses and slats in one place and from one company.

After you have decided on the type of ceiling and its shade, you need to find out how much finishing material you need to buy.

We calculate the amount according to the following method:

1. We measure the room with a construction tape measure. We find out the length of the profile (U-shaped). It is fixed on the wall and will allow you to do the job as accurately as possible.
2. We calculate the length (total) of the carrier comb or stringer. To do this, we need to make markings on the ceiling perpendicular to the location (so far only intuitively) of future panels.
3. We calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and get the approximate amount of materials to cover the ceiling.

It remains to go to the construction supermarket to purchase everything you need, and also do not forget to prepare the tools.

When installing a slatted ceiling in the bathroom with our own hands, we will need the following materials and tools:

• rack ceiling set with profiles, panels, stringers;
• suspension elements;
• perforator;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• felt-tip pen;
• roulette;
• level;
• metal scissors;
• ordinary scissors;
• pliers;
• dowel;
• self-tapping screws;
• folding ladder for construction work.

Depending on the method of fixing, ceilings can be different types. Consider the options for mounting structures:

1. Closed mount. During installation, the rails are fastened closely, so there is no space between them. The result is a perfectly smooth and beautiful ceiling resembling PVC panels or lining.
2. In an open way - a small gap remains between the panels, which is closed with a plinth (width no more than 1.5 cm). This mounting option is not suitable for small rooms, since the gaps are very noticeable.
3. There is one more interesting option rail fastenings open way- you can close the space between the strips with aluminum strips, then the ceiling will look beautiful. This option allows you to combine various materials and unusually decorate the room. Inserts from another material will help visually lengthen the room in the right direction.

The slats themselves differ in size, width and thickness:

1. The size is 3 or 4 meters. If this option does not suit you, you need to order a service for cutting ceiling rails into special machine(you can cut the rail yourself with a grinder).
2. The width of the finishing material varies from 9 to 20 cm. Most often, buyers choose slats with a width of 10 cm.
3. You can choose different thickness of ceiling rails, but only if the structure is assembled from very thin rails, then where is the guarantee that the ceiling will be reliable? The best option, this width is 0.5 mm.

If the need arises, you can change the shade of the ceiling, only you can paint it only 1 time. To achieve the effect of a mirror, you must purchase a chrome ceiling.

And further important advice, pay attention to the factory packaging, each ceiling rail must be protected with a film.

Do-it-yourself slatted ceiling in the bathroom

Installation of the ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen or toilet begins only after all other finishing work in this room has been completed. Installing the ceiling is the so-called final chord in the decoration of the room.

The crucial moment, on which the result of your work depends on 90%, is markup. On the ceiling, you need to correctly make the markup, in order to then fix the profile.

How to properly mark the ceiling for mounting rails:

• mark the perimeter of the room with a marker using the building level. If you have a horizontal ceiling, then you need to decide on the installation height. For multi-level ceilings, complex markings and additional calculations are needed;
• the distance (upper edge of the wall) will determine the filling of the space between the ceiling and the suspended ceiling structure. If nothing will be placed in this niche, then you can raise the ceiling to the maximum. It is enough to leave a small gap within 5 cm. If you plan to install lighting or carry out ventilation, then more space must be allocated. Just keep in mind that in the standard apartment buildings the height of the ceilings is the same everywhere - 2.5 m and you don’t need to “take away” a lot for mounting the rack ceiling, since the room will seem small, and the ceiling will “crush”;
• now you need to apply the markings under the fastening of the stringers. The lines between the side walls and the markings must be strictly parallel and perpendicular to the direction of the end wall and panels.

How to install a rack ceiling in the bathroom

The first step in the installation of the structure is the installation of guides. Guide strips must be installed around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, according to the pre-made markings, we “lower” our future ceiling by 15, maximum 20 cm (this depends on the communications that lie in the resulting space). To do everything correctly, it is advisable to use a laser building level in your work. We need to spend straight line horizontally to attach the guide profile.

The standard profile length is 3 m, if necessary, it can be shortened using metal shears.

Now you need to attach the profile to the wall (to make it more convenient to work, stand on a stool or use a folding ladder). It is necessary to drill a hole with an electric drill and insert the screw together with the dowel. Thus, you need to attach the profile around the entire perimeter of the bathroom. The step between fasteners is 5 cm.

In the corners, the profile is connected so that the edge of one fastener goes into the hole of the other. After completing the installation of the guides, you need to make sure that everything matches in level and there are no distortions. After that, you can install suspensions, but first we will take measurements for their fastening, observing the distance (a step of 1 m is enough). We mark the place of attachment on the ceiling and fix the stringers directly to the ceiling.

The hardest part of the work is already over, now we need to learn how to make a slatted ceiling in the bathroom.

• we take the first rail and insert it into the profile, which is already fixed to the wall until it clicks, which means that it has fallen into place;
• we snap the rail with the help of guides;
• by the same principle we mount all other rails.

Do not forget before installing each strip on the ceiling, remove the protective film.

Thus, we gradually “recruit” the ceiling to the last panel. If you want it to look beautiful, then you need to insert mirror strips. Then, when mounting the rails, you need to alternate the panels - first 1 main rail is mounted, then a narrow mirror rail (standard width 2 m) and so on.

If you plan to install fixtures in the bathroom, then even at the first stage - marking, you need to determine the location of the lighting equipment and, using a grinder, drill holes of the desired diameter in the rail in advance. When installing the ceiling, start working from one edge of the wall, as soon as you get to the installation of the rail with a hole for the lamp, you can proceed with the installation of the rails with opposite side. And at the end, install the fixtures and fix the strips on the ceiling.

It is easier to install the structure with two people, so that one person supports the rail, and the other guides and inserts it into the grooves. Another joint work will help to complete the work faster and better, since the rails are easy to scratch during installation.

In order for the result of the work to please you, you must adhere to these recommendations:

1. Consider the direction of the lines that form at the junction of the panel. They are located from the window (when installing the ceiling in the kitchen) or from the entrance to the opposite wall.
2. If you arrange the slats transversely, you can visually change the proportions of a narrow room.
3. If your bathroom is square in size, then diagonal stripes will look good on the ceiling.
4. If your room is spacious, then the panels will need to be connected (spliced ​​to each other). Then, when buying the necessary set of components, do not forget to purchase intermediate liners so that the junction is almost invisible.
5. When installing the structure, you can immediately install spotlights; for this, holes of the desired diameter are drilled in the rail in advance.
6. If it is necessary to cut the panels, it is better to work with an angle grinder, and cut a hole under spotlight can be done with a cutter.

1. Bring out the wires for connecting lighting equipment as soon as you install the strip. Leave the wires with a margin so that there are no problems when connecting. You can connect the fixtures after installation.
2. If you want to mount the ceiling diagonally, then the profiles of the suspended structure should be placed diagonally.

Your room will be transformed if you personally carry out the installation of the rack ceiling. Such structures are easy to install, they do not absorb moisture, they are easy to clean and will serve you for many years.

How to install a rack ceiling in the bathroom, watch the video:

Dedicated to A.A.))
Suppose you have made a rack ceiling. How to evaluate the quality of installation? Using an example, I will show you what you need to pay attention to, I will outline three main reasons (although there are more) because of which I would not accept a job. I'll tell you how the ideal rack ceiling should look like and add the secrets of installation.



To begin with, it doesn’t matter what kind of production it is, the price and width of the rails, with or without inserts, it doesn’t matter what quality it is. Absolutely any ceiling can be assembled so that it does not raise questions - then trust my experience. Therefore, for illustrations, I took pictures from the last bathroom, made in an economy version, including the most simple and economical slats from Leroy Merlin. Ceiling without inserts, "French version".

The first thing I look at is the joints of the guides. In most cases, the p-profile is joined at right angles with the letter G, less often (unique ones) run one profile into another.


Both options are the simplest, but, of course, this is wrong.
Profiles are joined under 45 * as ceiling plinths. There is one nuance here, which, as I understand it, many do not know. How to cut and calculate the angle so that there is no gap at the junction?
Yes Easy. Profiles are cut in place.


So we get a beautiful joint of guides.


There is another nuance here. To make it convenient to cut through, the upper edge of the profile is initially cut as below in the picture.
So you have a free corridor for scissors. Comfortable!

Now the second reason why I would not accept the ceiling. Of course it's cracks.
Raise your hands who has a rack and there is not a single gap in it!)
This is the misfortune of most ceilings, which does not justify the installer. Because to avoid them is very simple, for this you do not need, like some, to throw pieces of tiles on the rails and invent bicycles.

Everything is solved by trimming the same p-profile.


Let's start with the first plank. The profile and stringers are already installed.
We paste. What do we see?



Naturally, the rails warp. Therefore, we insert cut pieces of the p-profile into each connection. I advise you to drive the profiles along the entire length into the first bar.

These latches not only get rid of cracks but also prevent their occurrence in the future. They give rigidity to the entire structure, no gaps are formed when replacing light bulbs, for example, or rails, and during further installation, when it will no longer be possible to reach the first rails.


Therefore, you need to insert them into each bar, even if the connection is good.
It is reliable and of high quality, ordinary profile cutting solves all issues.
Now one more nuance of the assembly. How to insert the last bar and at the same time without gaps? After all, almost always it is cut along, and given the material, it warps.
The solution is simple. The penultimate rail is inserted last. This is the law! There are no other options!
Before that, you need to calculate and install the last bar, usually it is clamped along its entire length with latches, which exclude the appearance of cracks.


Then, pieces of inserts are baited into the p-profile for the last rail, which will tighten the final bar. After all, now there will be no access to the interceiling space.


We insert the last one, we correct it.
All.


The third most common joint is a sealant. Most often, they are coated with the seams of the fit of the p-profile to the walls and try to mask the gaps.
I will say this - any presence of sealant on the ceilings is excluded. If I see him, I no longer look at the ceiling. In my mind, this is pornography, I would never accept a ceiling with sealant. In fact, this recognition is not that of unprofessionalism, but an element of collective farm performance.

There are two more points to pay attention to.
The first one is grout. The walls (at least in the ceiling area) must be rubbed before installation. In theory, you can gently let down and after, but it is immediately noticeable, in any case, I notice right away.
And the second is the fit of built-in lamps. Often light shines through them, this is a jamb.

Now the only moment in defense and it concerns the installation French variants without inserts. Yes, often slots are visible through the slats, through which you can even see the contours of the stringers. There are no options here, the stringer itself regulates the tightness of the slats, so if there is a choice, the inserts look more attractive.

How do I know all this? For several years I worked purely in bathrooms when stretch ceiling only appeared and rack and pinion were considered in vogue. Considering that each bathroom is done alone for at least 14 days (when forcing) and up to 3 weeks, I redid so many ceilings that I know all the algorithms by heart. standard ceiling I collect it in 5 hours, and I simply don’t know how to assemble it otherwise. All the aforementioned jambs can be presented to the installer, they are justified.

Use advice. It's all.