Using drywall for re-planning movements is an excellent choice in favor of quality and ease of installation. And GKL sheets cost less than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of drywall partitions is easy to do on your own, if you choose high-quality materials and tools that facilitate the process.

Before planning and destroying old floors, it is necessary to obtain permission from the house management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment scheme may affect the safety of the whole house. If redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for mounting a plasterboard partition is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door in it, and shelves and other heavy parts are not provided on the sides, then the thickness of the product may be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is selected not “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and the frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders identify a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. Such material is used in rooms with normal humidity indicators. If the partition is made in the bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used, as they are not sufficiently reliable. Most often, reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles are used. They are different type and thickness - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

• dowel;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
• acrylic primer;
• putty;
• serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools necessary for the construction of the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for the job

When installing a partition from a gypsum board, construction tools are used.

It is better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for mounting a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes and additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing a metal profile.

How to install a drywall partition

Before you install a drywall partition, you need to make sure that you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Do-it-yourself partition installation takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is marking. Never skip it, especially if you are installing a similar design for the first time.

Marking

Start installation drywall partitions necessary with marking. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a building corner.

The line must be perfectly even, because subsequently a profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with particular accuracy, otherwise the design will turn out to be a curve, which will lead to its premature wear and the impossibility of mounting the door.

Frame installation

After the markup has been applied and made sure of its evenness, guide profiles are installed. First, they put the part on the floor and fix it with dowels, bypassing the place for the door.

Advice! Holes for fasteners are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markup, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers plugs-dowels into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. After that, they make the final reconciliation of the markup, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, the rack profile is fixed along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal in terms of level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal rail. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then the screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, they proceed to the installation of the ceiling guide.

Advice! It is necessary to screw in the screws at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Fastening to the ceiling occurs in the same way as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, comparing the floor markings with the ceiling. Height measurements are taken for the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut with scissors.

The vertical profile must be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and strengthened wooden beam. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed in the end.

If the ceilings in the apartment or house are high, then the installation interior partitions accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are fastened approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings, calculate how much uprights. They are fastened 300-600 mm apart. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then they are installed with their ends inside the guides. Process control building level. It is necessary to fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws with larger caps.

electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, electrical wiring is made inside. You can do this after the installation of drywall partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. In the profiles, you need to make holes through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The big stage is the sheathing of the frame according to the size of the GKL with sheets. It is necessary to fasten drywall with prominent self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fixing plasterboard). Fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheets are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, then they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of a plasterboard partition. To make a bevel, you can use a planer with a beveled knife.

Advice! If elements are used in the partition to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the desired diameter. Through them wires are output after complete installation designs.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, a heater is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene. Empty space must not be left, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Installing the door frame

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

1. Set by level doorjamb with hinges using larger self-tapping screws.
2. The heads of the self-tapping screws are deepened into the wooden racks of the box.
3. The door is suspended (it is desirable to choose the lightest canvas possible).

If problems arise due to insufficiently even installation of profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled mounting foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Seam sealing

The final stage of the installation of partitions from GKL is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of self-tapping screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with applied glue, then the installation will be faster:

After all the procedures go to the stage finishing finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is essential to decorative materials lay down evenly and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy look will nullify all the efforts of the builder.

Finish the finish with the final layer of putty, after which it is processed sandpaper with fine grain.

After cleaning the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait for complete drying. Now you can paste wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a drywall partition with your own hands is not only a simple, but also an exciting process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip the steps.

in repair and construction works ah applicable . This construction material has a flat surface, so you can easily create, as well as with the help of partitions. Knauf partitions made of tongue-and-groove drywall have many advantages. The functionality of the partition is mainly aimed at dividing the room.

Knauf prefabricated plasterboard partition systems are used both in apartments and in public places. They differ in types and sizes. With their help, walls and partitions are created.

Assembly of the Knauf partition frame

The main advantage is the Knauf material. The tongue-and-groove gypsum boards are created using lithium technology.

Required amount partition wall mounting materials

They do not burn and are. Composite plates do not contain toxic impurities harmful to humans and animals. These boards are easy to install and process.

Knauf plasterboard partitions are fully equipped, which is important in the installation of the partition and its further use.

Types of partitions and installation features

The Knauf company produces partitions that are excellent in their sizes and types. For convenience, they are divided into models.

Scheme of the device and the design of the Knauf partition

By design, Knauf partitions are divided into the number of layers of drywall (GWP):

1. One layer of drywall.
2. Two layers.
3. Three layers of plasterboard.
4. One layer on one frame.
5. Combined drywall on one side and two-layer - the second side.
6. Three-layer sheathing of moisture-resistant GKL and metal sheets.

The design of the partitions has channels for communications, as well as dedicated places for ventilation.

According to the Knauf frame, there are partitions: single-frame, designed for places where there is no need and there will be no heavy weighting of the structure. Two-frame structures are durable, which can either be used as a basis for creating furniture.

Partition C112

The Knauf C112 system is a composition of materials that create a partition with a two-layer sheathing and one metal frame.
Partition features:

Given all the features of Knauf, it is safe to say that its service life is long.

The names of the elements of the Knauf partition

Installation of partition C112

The partition wall installation technology is carried out in compliance with step by step instructions. Start off installation work should be carried out when all work with electricity and is completed. After graduation repair work with flooring, as well as the end water procedures in the required room.
Installation of the Knauf partition is carried out as follows:

1. With the help of a laser and an upholstery cord, markings are applied to a clean surface of the floor, walls and ceiling.
   
2. The lines mark the location of the rack profiles, as well as the doorway.
3. Attached first. Metal shears are used to cut the profile to the required length.
   
4. To improve sound insulation on the NP, it is required to glue a sealing tape, according to the width of the profile.
   
5. Using 35 mm dowels, the profile is attached to the floor. The fastening step is not more than 1 meter.
   
6. Similarly, the NP is mounted on the ceiling.
7. After that, you should measure the length of the rack profile from the ceiling to the floor.

   An example of fastening rack profiles

8. The length should be 1 cm less than the height of the room.
9. A sealing tape is glued to the rack profiles that are attached to the wall.
10. If the wall is Knauf drywall, then profiles. If a brick or block of cellular concrete, then dowels 35 mm long are used. The step of fastening dowels or self-tapping screws is not more than 1 meter.

    The scheme of fastening sheets of drywall Knauf

11. For doors weighing 35 kg, it is required to mount a double rack profile, by fitting one profile onto another.

    Scheme device double rack profile

12. Racks for doors are mounted in guide profiles and fastened with self-tapping screws 9 mm long.
13. A horizontal lintel for the door is cut out of the guide profile. It is installed between the rack profiles of the door, at the top of the door height and fastened with 9 mm self-tapping screws.
    
14. From the resulting door frame up to the ceiling, you should install a cut-out rack profile in the amount of two pieces. These racks are fastened with a notch with a bend.
    Rack connection diagram

    

15. Rack profiles are installed from floor to ceiling every 60 cm, fixing is carried out by cutting.

    Dimensional drawing for mounting rack profiles

16. The backs of the profiles must be turned to one side, and the cable openings must be at level 1.

Plasterboard sheathing of partition C112

After the mounted metal frame begins. The sheet must be fixed at a distance of 1 cm from the floor. If necessary, use construction knife. The cardboard is cut along the intended line and the gypsum is cracked.

On the other hand, the cardboard should be cut along the resulting fold line. The trimmed part of the GKL is processed and a chamfer of 22 degrees is created. And also cutters are used to cut the sheet - small (the width of the cut sheet is 12 cm), a large cutter is 63 cm.

Installation of drywall is carried out using a special device. The sheets are pressed against the frame and. They should be at the same distance from each other - 7.5 cm, and also from the edge at a distance of no more than 15 cm. The screw head should be 1 mm recessed into the plasterboard.

In the place where 2 sheets are connected vertically, a jumper from the profile should be installed. Adjacent horizontal joints are shifted by 40 cm.

After installing drywall sheets, electricity wires and other cables should be pulled through the holes in the metal racks.

Example of wiring under drywall

The next step is to lay the Knauf insulation material with open side partitions. And partition lining drywall sheets. But, drywall joints on one side should not coincide with joints on the other side. In this way, the strength of the structure is created.

After puttying, you should proceed to. In this case, the joints of the first layer of drywall should not coincide with the second level of the drywall coating of the partition.
Using special equipment at the marked points, it is required to cut holes for the electrical boxes for the switch and.

Drilling holes for sockets

The joints of the second layer of drywall must be sealed with Knauf reinforcing tape. After the putty dries at the joints, it is required to make a grout from excess pieces.
After grouting, the entire surface should be primed with Knauf Tiefengrund.

Detailed Process installation of holes in drywall for sockets

If the partition is painted, then before painting the entire surface should be puttied with Knauf Multi-Finish. When the surface dries, it should be rubbed and covered with a primer.

See in the video the installation process of the Knauf partition.

This sheet material is currently the most popular when facing internal partitions, and the installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Room layout

The first step prior to the start of construction work is the layout of the premises. If a decision is made to perform the installation of drywall for surface finishing, some points should be taken into account.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. At the same time, almost every size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and maximize the effective cutting of material, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken as 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Similarly, the width of the premises is desirable as a multiple of an integer number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then cutting the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to a deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the crate and the selection of materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties laid down by the developers in such building materials, the GKL is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within the normal range. It is widely used because of the convenience in operation, good machinability, light weight and economy;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms type summer kitchens and others non-residential premises. Can be used near heaters, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant drywall, allowing its use in indoor conditions with high humidity- baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses where humidity is usually higher than in city apartments;
• fire - moisture resistant material, which is almost universal.

According to the purpose, drywalls are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of a fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
• wall - for wall decoration and installation of partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Drywall tool

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easily processed with a simple tool. In this case, you can use the following tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose - sawing drywall sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• electric jigsaw - sawing parts complex shape by markup;
• construction knife - trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
• construction plumb line - control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpentry level - the same;
• electric drill - drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing drywall parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• paint brush - for applying a primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• nozzle on a drill for stirring dry mixtures;
• sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
• mixing container.

This is the main set of tools with which alignment, priming, and decorative trim drywall walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty - repair and surface preparation drywall boards to the application of the main leveling layer;
• tape - fiberglass sickle;
• drywall fasteners - self-tapping screws of a special shape;
• insulation for laying under sheets of drywall during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL various sizes, including 6.5 mm thick - for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick - for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for flooring with a dry screed.

Assembling a wall from plasterboard

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - a metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is not an idle question. With the seeming benefit of using wood, here the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of each part, which will help get rid of the risk of developing rot or fungal diseases. Fire treatment, especially if hidden wiring will be laid inside the frame, which most often happens. In addition to working off wood, electrical installation must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material on the basis of straightness and absence of helical deformations;
• change in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity regime in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, resulting in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these complexities will inevitably require, apart from material costs, also a large number time.

All these shortcomings are deprived of metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles.

Several of their types are produced, designed to perform various structural elements:

1. Ceiling profiles, referred to as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions of 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack, UD - 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of the profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

As auxiliary parts, U-shaped straight hangers are produced for connecting ceiling and CD profiles.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

The metal profile frame for the wall begins with marking its location. It is made on the floor, and then transferred to the ceiling with a plumb line and a paint cord, which will ensure the strict verticality of the structure.

The installation of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, while using profiles UW guides and rack CW.

The fastening of the base parts must be carried out in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, it should be remembered that the dimensions of the drywall sheet are a multiple of 600 mm, so the racks are set, focusing on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame, you need to stretch the vapor protection film, for which it is used polyethylene film about 200 microns thick. It is pulled over the frame and fixed with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to fix a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows, without destroying the surface of the coating, to fix the sheet flush.
• in a similar way, install the remaining parts of the wall sheathing on one side, making a cutout under the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which simultaneously acts as a soundproof device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose are used various materials, both slab (min-slab) and rolled, such as isover, an insulation device of more than 2 layers will entail the need for a three-dimensional frame. Wall insulation and soundproofing device will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, acting in the same way as for the first side;
• drywall sheets are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out with a step of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting of galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a broom saw. The use of a hand grinder burns protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of finely dispersed metallic zinc.

Alignment of walls with drywall

Often, during construction or repair, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using GKL than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when drywall is attached to the wall on the profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install the floor and ceiling guides. Then the installation of racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, flat wall and it remains only to prepare its surface for applying the finish coat.

There is a way to level the wall with drywall without a frame. It should be noted that the surface quality of the base must be sufficiently high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you need to carefully remove all protrusions that may interfere with this. Installation technology can be as follows:

• attach a piece of plasterboard to the wall and drill mounting holes. At the same time, traces from the drill will remain on the base surface, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and drill holes for installing plastic inserts using these marks;
• put on the wall adhesive composition on cement or plaster base, smooth with a comb trowel. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, fix it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to the wall, you can easily cope with the rest of the coating elements.

Surface putty

For the final preparation of the plane of the walls for the finishing coating, its finishing with putty is used. It is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle;
• applying the primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with the finishing composition of the putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a drywall wall, any developer can handle this task on their own. It is only necessary to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited experts will perform this work at a price of 600 to 800 rubles per square meter. However, in any case - good luck to you!

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We make drywall partitions on our own - 5 stages of installation

Mounting technology

Installation of interior partitions can be divided into five stages:

You will also need parts to assemble the frame:

In wooden houses, partitions are often made on a wooden frame. In this case, instead of profiles, a bar with a section of 75x25 mm or 50x25 mm is used.

In addition, to perform the installation of drywall partitions, you will need some other materials:

• dowel-nails and self-tapping screws for fastening profiles and drywall;
• primer;
• tape for reinforcing joints;
• starting putty, as well as finishing if the partition is to be painted.

Now you can get to work.

Stage 2: Marking

Before making drywall partitions, it is imperative to mark the ceiling, walls and floor. This operation is carried out as follows:

1. start work by marking the future partition on the ceiling. To do this, step back from the wall the required distance and mark a few points. Then connect these points with a line, drawing it with a pencil and a rule, or using a masking cord;

1. now the markings need to be transferred to the floor using plumb lines. To do this, mark several points on the floor, and then connect them with a line.

1. the resulting lines on the ceiling and on the floor must be connected by vertical lines on the walls. If you do not have a plumb line, you can draw vertical lines on the wall from the line on the ceiling using a level, and then connect them with a line on the floor.

Before proceeding with the layout, it is advisable to draw up a plan of the room and determine the location of the partition on it. This will avoid mistakes and rework.

In the process of marking, make sure that the corners of the junction of the walls correspond to 90 degrees, unless another value is originally planned.

Stage 3: frame assembly

Installation of a plasterboard partition begins with the assembly of the frame. True, it is possible to start it only if the foundation is solid and even.

If the floor is uneven, you must first level it. On the concrete floor you can perform or even use a self-leveling mortar. True, the latter allows you to eliminate only small level differences.

Especially responsibly it is necessary to approach the preparation of a wooden floor. If the boards stagger or bend when walking, you need to securely fasten them or even strengthen the base with additional lags.

So, let's take a look at how to assemble the frame step by step:

1. first of all, prepare the guides - cut them along the length of the partition;
2. then you need to fix the guides on the wall and floor, aligning them with the markings. Fasten the rails to the wall so that you can later attach jumpers to them.
   To fix the profiles, dowel nails are usually used, however, if the installation of plasterboard partitions is carried out in wooden house, you can use self-tapping screws;

1. then you need to cut the rack profiles along the height of the wall;

1. after preparing the rack profiles, you can begin their installation. The work is carried out quite simply and quickly - the racks are inserted into the guides, after which they are attached to them with self-tapping screws. The distance between PS profiles should be 60 cm;

1. to strengthen the frame, a beam of the same section as the racks should be inserted into the profiles. Strengthening may be required if you want to attach furniture to the wall. In addition, it is desirable to strengthen the doorway;

1. after that, jumpers are installed. They can be made with your own hands from ordinary profiles in several ways.
   Most often, incisions are made in the corners of the profile, i.e. between the backs and the shelf, after which they are bent at 90 degrees. You can also make oblique cuts, as shown in the diagram above;

Jumpers should be located in increments of 60 cm. To ensure the greatest rigidity of the structure, they must be installed in a checkerboard pattern.

To improve the sound insulation of the frame, stick a sealing tape on the profiles.

This completes the installation. By the same principle, drywall partitions are assembled on a wooden frame. The only thing is that metal corners are used to join the frame parts, into which self-tapping screws are screwed.

Keep in mind that for wooden frame only well-dried timber can be used. If the humidity exceeds 15-20 percent, over time they can lead. As a result, the entire structure will warp.

In addition, do not forget to treat the bars with antiseptic impregnation. Otherwise, the timber may be affected by rot, mold or insects. Therefore, partitions from GVL on metal frame more practical in this regard.

Stage 4: frame sheathing

Now the frame needs to be sheathed with drywall. This process is quite simple - the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The only thing is that in the process of work it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

• the caps of the self-tapping screws must be slightly recessed, otherwise they will interfere with further puttying. At the same time, they cannot be deeply buried, otherwise they will break through the cardboard;

• the pitch between the screws should be 250 mm. As a rule, drywall has a marking for the location of self-tapping screws, which simplifies the work;
• the ends of the sheets should fall on the center of the profiles. "Hanging" joints will lead to cracking of the finish in these areas;

• sheets should be placed with ligation of seams.

Before you install drywall, you will probably need to cut some sheets. This is done quite simply:

1. draw a cut line on the sheet;
2. attach a ruler or rule to the cut line;

1. cut a layer of cardboard along the rule or ruler with a knife;
2. then gently refract the GKL along the cut line and fold in half;
3. now cut the second layer of cardboard along the fold line.

After one side of the partition is sheathed, lay soundproofing material in the space. Mineral basalt mats are excellent for these purposes. Their price is slightly higher than polystyrene, but this material is more environmentally friendly and copes better with the task.

If you install a drywall partition without sound insulation, then literally every rustle will be heard in the next room.

Stage 5: drywall finishing

We can say that the installation of a drywall partition is completed on this. However, the resulting wall is not yet ready for finishing.

To prepare the partition, you must perform the following steps:

1. the first step is the jointing of the seams - a chamfer is cut off from the edges of the gypsum board at the joints. To do this, you can use a sharp mounting knife;

1. then the wall surface must be treated with two layers of primer using a roller or brush. The second layer can only be applied after the first has dried.
   Special attention devote to the processing of the ends of the sheets. You can even “walk” on them with a brush;
2. now you need to reinforce the joints of the sheets. To do this, prepare the starting putty, and fill the space between the sheets with it. Putty is applied perpendicular to the seam.

Then level the putty by running along the seam with a spatula. Without waiting for the composition to begin to set, glue the reinforcing tape to the seam, and apply a second layer of putty in the same way.

According to this principle, all the seams of the sheets on each side of the partition must be sealed;

1. then you need to putty the caps of the screws with the same putty. To do this, type the composition on a spatula and run it over the hat. As a result, the recess should be filled with putty;
2. after the putty has hardened, the surface must be cleaned with a spatula. Then these areas must be cleaned of dust and primed with a brush;

1. then putty the entire surface of the partition on both sides, using a wide spatula. At this stage, you also need to stick the plaster corners on all the outer corners of the wall, if any. The corners will not only align the corners, but also protect them from chipping;
2. after the putty has hardened, it must be sanded with sandpaper or mesh with P120 abrasive. In the process of grinding, try to get rid of all serious flaws on the surface. To do this, make circular movements with the tool;

1. then you need to clean the surface of dust and primed;
2. if you are going to paint a wall, be sure to apply a thin layer finishing putty and carefully sand it with sandpaper or mesh with fine abrasive - P150;
3. to achieve perfect smooth surface, remove dust from the partition and prime it again. After that, you can finish the wall with a finish coat.

Conclusion

Now you can install drywall partitions without the help of specialists. Try not to violate the above technology in order to get a good result. I recommend watching the video in this article, and if something is not clear to you, feel free to ask questions in the comments, and I will definitely answer you.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 5 minutes

Installing a partition from the GKL in the apartment - optimal solution to divide the interior space. Thanks to its versatility given material enjoys in high demand and popularity in the field of apartment renovation. The options for its use are very diverse, but most often drywall is used for the construction of partitions with their subsequent decorative finish.

Highlights similar designs attractive appearance, ease of installation and the ability to do it yourself. And the opening design possibilities make it possible to make the overall appearance of the apartment original, individual, stylish and extremely attractive.

The rigidity of the partition with plasterboard lining is given by a frame made of wooden or metal profiles. With clear step-by-step instructions, necessary materials and tools, its construction will also not take much effort and time.

Price

How much does it cost to install a drywall partition? If you decide to turn to specialists, the construction of a partition without sound insulation with plasterboard sheathing in one layer will cost you, taking into account the cost of materials, 900–1100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in Moscow and 800-900 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg. The cost of a two-layer partition with noise and heat insulation will be from 1800 to 2100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in the capital and from 1200 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg.

If you plan to mount the partition yourself, it will cost you 2 times cheaper.

Where do we start?

Before you start installing a drywall partition with your own hands in the selected room, you need to carefully consider the future design, complete the basic drawing. It does not require specific knowledge and calculations from you, but it must the smallest details display all required parameters.

• Let's start with the fact that in the selected format we will reflect on paper the dimensions of the room chosen for the partition.
• We draw the place of the desired location of the future internal partition from drywall.
• Similarly, we perform front drawing partitions, reflective bearing structures and jumpers.
• Calculate the number of future racks will help determine the planned loads on the partition being performed using drywall during its operation. Additionally, keep in mind that the edges of the sheets of material are attached to different frame profiles. This will enable uniform distribution loads over the entire plane of the frame, taking into account all the decorative elements used. Perhaps you decide to make a wall with drywall shelves.

What materials and tools will be needed

For the manufacture of drywall partitions, first of all, the construction of a rigid frame will be required. It is made from a 75 mm wide galvanized profile using additional elements and wooden bars. You will need the latter to increase the rigidity of the structure in certain areas. Partition cladding is done standard sheets 12.5 mm thick, which are fixed with self-tapping screws. Soundproofing material is laid between the plasterboard.

In addition to the materials listed, you will need your own or rented tools:

• or a drill with an appropriate attachment.
• Laser or hydraulic level. The first option is preferable, as it will greatly simplify and speed up your work on creating a partition, and will allow you to qualitatively beat off vertical and horizontal levels.
• Five or ten meter tape measure.
• Plumb.

The process of arranging a partition using drywall can be divided into several stages, including:

• installation of a doorway;
• sheathing of the GKL partition;
• execution of finishing.

We create the basis for the partition frame

Using drawing tools and a level on the ceiling and floor surfaces, we make markings, noting where the partition will stand.

• We fix the guide profile to the floor with self-tapping screws.
• We insert vertical guides into the profile located on the floor with a step of half a meter, we fasten them to the walls strictly vertically. At the joints of the profiles, we use self-tapping screws or a cutter to fasten them together.
• Using a plumb line, we mount the guide profile of the future partition on the ceiling.

As a result, by installing 4 profiles, we get a rectangular frame that will serve as the basis for the future frame.

Making a doorway in a partition

If the design of the partition provides for the presence hinged door, you should take care of the presence in the frame of a place for mounting door block. The walls of the structure must have sufficient rigidity to withstand the expected load.

Strengthening the profile with dry, straight wooden blocks will help to give rigidity to the profile.

To install a doorway in a partition, we perform the following steps:

• We trim the rack profile to the required height, strengthen it with a wooden block inserted inside.
• Install finished structure inside the upper (ceiling) and lower (floor) guide profile so that the width is the same in the upper and lower parts of the opening. We check the verticality of the racks with a level, and fix them with self-tapping screws.

• For the manufacture of cross beam cut out a piece of the rack profile corresponding to the width of the future doorway. We also strengthen it with a wooden bar.
• We set the transverse profile strictly horizontally to the required height.

The crossbar can be installed in two ways:

1. Fasten the cuttings of the rails, corresponding to the width of the rack profile, on both reinforced racks, insert the prepared crossbar into them and fix.
2. At the rack profile, which will serve as a crossbar, cut out the middle part, leaving the "antennae" for which it will be attached to the racks.

Important! In both cases, when connecting the profile, it is recommended to use a cutter. This will help ensure a snug fit of the gypsum board and avoid "humps" from the screws on the surface of the partition.

Fasten with nails wooden structures inserted in the profile.

Installation of vertical racks

We mount the rack profile, taking into account the standard width of the plasterboard (120 cm), there are 3 racks per sheet.

Since the installation of whole sheets of drywall is better to start from the center, this makes it possible to most effectively “hide” the cutting points, so we install the racks accordingly - from the door to the walls. The verticality of each of the vertical profiles is checked by a level.

USEFUL INFORMATION: Ceiling from moisture resistant drywall to the bathroom

Wiring and horizontal bars

The connection of vertical rack profiles with horizontal crossbars will add rigidity to the entire structure. The installation step is usually taken about 75 cm.

• Depending on the pitch of the vertical racks, we cut pieces of the rack profile of a suitable size.
• After assembling the frame, we lay the electrical wires (for this, the manufacturer provides special holes in the profiles).

Important! Electrical wires in without fail put in a corrugated tube.