Do-it-yourself barn door frames. Wooden plank door to the barn - simple and reliable

Now in construction markets and in stores, it is easy to purchase any door to the barn. But why spend money on such a purchase, if you can make a reliable and durable structure with your own hands, spending a minimum of money on materials?

Barn door - where to start?

The erection of a utility block, a capital shed or a similar building cannot be considered completely completed if you do not provide them with a reliable and durable door. For the buildings of interest to us, a product made of boards is rightfully considered an ideal option for an entrance structure. It is quite possible to make and install such a door with your own hands. To build a wooden structure, you will need the following materials:

• slats and boards;
• joiner's glue;
• plywood sheets (they can be replaced with lining strips);
• fittings and fasteners;
• dowels for furniture;
• foam or hardboard.

Self-made door

We begin assembling wood doors with our own hands by measuring the opening where the structure will be installed. You need to decide on the geometric parameters of the door leaf itself and the frame for it. The next step is preparing the materials. Purchased wooden products (for a barn, you can use dry edged 2.5-3 cm pine boards) should be carefully planed so that their thickness is approximately the same. If there are serious defects on the wood - clearly visible traces of warpage, deep cracks, it is advisable to replace the boards with better ones. After that, using an electric jigsaw, cut the prepared wood products, focusing on the previously performed measurements.

We do the entrance structure with our own hands - a minimum of difficulties

In the boards cut according to the specified parameters, drill small holes with an electric drill. They are needed for fasteners. For a standard door no more than 1.6 m high, three holes are usually sufficient. If you decide to make a more massive structure with your own hands, four fastening points may be needed. The depth of the holes should be equal to half the length of the furniture dowels, and the section must correspond to the diameter of the fasteners used.

Self-made wooden door

The door to the barn is assembled according to a simple scheme. You need to grease the dowel with an adhesive and connect two boards with it (just insert the fasteners into the prepared holes). Then do the same with other dowels and wooden parts, collecting the entire structure. The barn door can be made with or without dowels. Experts advise using the first method. The dowels provide greater structural strength and a more attractive appearance. Such elements are made from narrow wooden (no more than 10 mm thick) slats.

The dowels can be cut into wood. Let's say right away that this procedure will require a lot of effort and time from you. You will need to prepare the special keyways using a hammer and chisel. The operation may take a long time. Therefore, when doing all the work with their own hands, home craftsmen usually nail the dowels onto the assembled door leaf. It is advisable to insulate the made door structure. Especially when a shed or utility block is used to store any seals, keeping animals in the winter.

Thermal insulation is easy to make using hardboard or foam. From sheets of these materials, cut out products that are suitable in size and install them on the inside of the door structure.

And all the remaining gaps and slots are simply blown out. All excess of the latter should be removed after it is completely dry. Apply plywood sheets or lining to the layer of thermal insulation, fasten them. You can additionally mount another layer of boards. Then the door will perfectly conserve heat and at the same time will be breathable.

In principle, you have already managed to make a high-quality entrance structure for a shed or utility block with your own hands. You can safely install it. But we advise you to additionally process the fabric made so that it will serve you for many years. Just sand the structure with coarse sandpaper, and then fine-grained. The result of this simple event will be the most smooth surface without the slightest irregularities and roughness. You just have to treat it with a protective varnish, which will protect the door to the barn from the harmful effects of the weather.

How to install a door - procedure

If the utility block (shed) has a normal door frame, it is allowed to attach a do-it-yourself canvas to the old structure. It may have to be slightly tweaked (replace the threshold or other elements) and strengthened by installing anchor bolts. If the old box is not suitable for use, DIY a new design.

Installing barn doors

• lay the fabricated canvas on a flat surface;
• place wooden blocks around it for a new box;
• cut off unnecessary parts;
• collect the box.

Place a 2 mm thick piece of cardboard between them before assembling the canvas and the new box. This must be done. Otherwise, when installing the door, the door leaf will not fit into the box. Now mount the hinges. They are right and left, choose the one that suits you. Divide the loops in two. One of them is attached to the door leaf, the second (there is a special pin on it) - to the box. Fix the hinges with self-tapping screws (screws). Install the curtain on the hinges, check the quality of the installation - whether the doors close and open well. If everything is fine, screw the latch and handle onto the homemade entrance structure. The door is installed!

A door is a device that allows people to walk through walls. The design includes two main elements. The first is a canvas that, when closed, imitates an "insurmountable" wall, the second is a mechanism by which the doorway opens. By connecting the canvas with the suspension mechanism, adjusting their well-coordinated work, everyone can confidently declare that they have made the door.

Manufacturing technology of wooden doors

Making a wooden door is very simple. It all depends on the materials that are available. If this is a door for a hut, then with the help of a rope, a knife and sticks of the same thickness, in a matter of minutes you can knit them into an even, flat canvas, and use the same string instead of loops. But if the task is to make a door to a house or apartment, then you will need special woodworking tools - a saw, a plane, a sander.

You can make doors of any complexity with your own hands, the main thing is to have a desire and carpentry skills

More recently - about 100 years ago, metal fasteners were very expensive. Therefore, the craftsmen made doors without the use of nails and screws. The joints were wooden, consisted of thorns, grooves and dowels (wooden nails). It took skill and craftsmanship to manually fine-tune the details. A good craftsman made the door for several days. With the advent of mechanization and automation of production, the manufacture of doors was put on the conveyor, and the "human factor" dropped to adjustments and adjustments of machine tools with numerical control.

Video: production of doors in a factory

In today's world, almost every home has a set of tools and devices that allows you to make a simple door for your own use. Materials are readily available and often the only task is correct assembly and fit.

The most common are two types of doors, fundamentally different in design:

1. Frame (panel) construction. The frame of the future door is made from the array, consisting of two racks and crossbars. The internal space is sewn up with panel material such as plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. The resulting cavity is filled with "honeycomb" or soundproofing material. As a rule, this is a rectangular canvas. There are no restrictions on dimensions, but the established shape of the doorway is 2 meters in height and 0.5–0.8 m in width. In rare cases, larger doors are made. For example, 2.2 m high and 90 cm wide. But at the same time, more powerful hinges must be used, since the mass of the sash increases.

   The panel door, assembled from wooden slats, fits well into the country style

2. Paneled construction. In this case, the door is completely made of natural wood. At the same time, its mass and strength increase. It is clear that a solid piece of wood measuring 2x0.6 m will be very expensive. Therefore, the canvas is made from component parts, connecting them into a single plane. By definition, a panel is a thin board or plywood inserted inside a wooden frame. Moreover, it can be replaceable.

   A paneled door made of solid wood can be decorated with artistic carvings

With current technologies for the production of doors, a clear division of the leaf structure into frame and panel doors has been somewhat erased. The doors are combined, combining elements of both panels and panels.

Video: are doors divided into panel and panel doors today (expert opinion)

Industrial production of wooden doors includes the following steps:

1. Harvesting of wood material.
2. Additional processing and preparation of the array (drying, gluing and impregnation).
3. Manufacturing of fabric and frame parts.
4. Assembling the structure.
5. Finishing work (painting, varnishing, laminating, etc.).

When making doors on your own, all stages are reproduced at home.

Equipment and tools

Different tools are needed to make different types of doors. A simple panel board is constructed using a hacksaw for wood (with a fine furniture tooth), a hammer or a screwdriver, if the fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws. A more "advanced" door is assembled using electrical devices:

1. Manual electric router. With its help, the details of the panel are milled and shaped into a profile. Grooved joints involve sampling wood, which is also done using a milling machine.

   The set of the router includes a set of cutters with different lengths and configurations of the cutting edge

2. Screwdriver or drill. Needed for sash assembly. It should be noted that when using a drill, a tool with an adjustable number of revolutions is required. Too fast starting rotation will not allow control of the fastener sinking process.

   A screwdriver with adjustable speed and power of rotation will allow correct installation of fasteners

3. A circular saw. Manual or stationary. With her help, wooden boards are cut into pieces. Cutting accuracy is important, so the saw needs to be well adjusted. An unbalanced blade will cut unevenly and chipped.

   The built-in circular ruler allows you to cut boards to a given size

4. Grinder with a set of grinding attachments. The power and high rpm of an angle grinder are welcome in this situation.

   Polishing of a wooden surface is carried out with special attachments

5. Measuring tools - tape measure or carpenter's meter, marker, straight rail, square.
6. Carpentry hand tools set: hammer, mallet, chisels, clamps, etc.

   A variety of hand tools greatly speed up the door assembly process

It is advisable to assemble on a workbench or workbench - it is much more convenient and faster.

As for the material for doors, the design and shape of the leaf are of great importance. The inserts can be made of MDF, chipboard, OSB or just plywood. The choice of material depends on the purpose of the doors. For entrance materials, materials with high strength are used, for interior ones - lighter, decorative types of wood.

The door frame is made from solid wood blocks. You will need two bars a little more than 2 m long for the racks and two meter bars of the same section for the crossbars. On one side, a quarter is selected equal to the thickness of the door leaf. However, a prefabricated frame structure is also possible, in which the supporting surface is created by building up thin slats.

The blank for the door frame is made taking into account the thickness of the door leaf

The most affordable material is pine and spruce boards. Spruce lumber is more durable, but pine has a nicer texture and fewer knots. Soft-leaved wood species - birch, linden, poplar - are practically not used for the manufacture of doors. Massive oak is very popular. Its structure is strong and durable. However, oak harvesting is an expensive process, which naturally affects the final price.

For simple doors with a laminated chipboard insert you will need:

• edged boards 40–60 mm thick and 100–150 mm wide, with a total length of 6 m;

  High quality boards are calibrated on all four planes

• a sheet of laminated chipboard, with a total area of ​​no more than 2 m 2;

  Chipboard cutting according to specified dimensions can be ordered from the supplier upon purchase

• PVA glue;

  The glue is used to reinforce the fastening of wooden door elements.

• varnish or paint;
• confirmations from 25 to 35 mm long.

  Color-matched plastic plugs make connections virtually invisible

Confirmates are special screws with a smoothed end and an "invisible" head. They are used in the assembly of furniture and other joinery. A distinctive feature is the wide pitch of the thread, which makes it possible to securely fasten both fibrous wood and pressed chipboard sheets. Confirmation slots come in different configurations - from conventional cross to hex and star. Accordingly, a suitable attachment is selected for the screwdriver.

To install the confirmation, a special drill with an extension in the upper part is used

Calculations and drawings

A competently drawn drawing will allow you to avoid mistakes and waste of materials in the manufacture of doors. A sketch and detailing is made on a sheet of paper, indicating the exact dimensions of each component of the canvas.

The drawing shows all the design features of the doors

In accordance with building GOSTs, the following parameters are adopted when installing doors:

1. The distance from the corner to the loops from below and from above is the same and amounts to 15-25 cm.

   During installation, it is necessary to observe the technological clearances

2. The door handle is installed at a height of 80–90 cm from the floor. The position of the locking device on the sash is determined by the lock device. The strike plate is located on the frame and recessed into the wood so that its plane coincides with the plane of the door frame.

   The handle and the lock are installed on the door last.

3. The viewing window is located at eye level - 150–160 cm from the bottom edge of the door leaf.
4. If a ventilation grill is provided in the door leaf, it is fixed in the middle of the door leaf, at a distance of 15–20 cm from the floor.

   The ventilation grill can be equipped with a built-in electric fan

You should also pay attention to the seal, which is mounted around the frame perimeter. The shapes of rubber seals are different and, depending on this, the geometry of the door frame profile is formed. Some types of seals require additional recess for installation.

Remove the protective film before installing the self-adhesive door seal

And finally, the door sill. Most often, there is no threshold in interior doors. This saves materials and shortens assembly time. But entrance doors without a threshold are too vulnerable and allow cold air to pass through. Therefore, it is advisable to reinforce this part of the door frame with a metal trim.

Metal trim increases the strength of the door sill

Video: making a simple paneled door

Step by step instructions

Consider the technology of self-manufacturing a wooden door:

1. Preparatory stage. The prepared boards are carefully processed to a polished surface using a grinding attachment on a grinder. To do this, it is necessary to use three types of emery: coarse-grained (No. 40), then medium-grained (No. 80) and fine-grained (No. 120). If the boards are planed, then they start immediately with a medium-grained sheet. The ultimate goal of polishing is a completely smooth surface with well-defined wood grain lines. It should be borne in mind that different rocks have different hardness. Processing pine, birch and linden will not take much time and effort. Above an oak or ash tree, you have to work hard.

   Vibration sanders are used for wood polishing

2. Next, you need to milling the parts in accordance with the conceived door design. With the help of a router and a set of shaped cutters, the ends are given the desired configuration. Each insert is individually adjusted to its groove. In addition, you need to make a deep groove along the inner perimeter of the frame. A sheet of chipboard is subsequently inserted into it. The size of the groove is selected in accordance with the thickness of the chipboard - a tolerance of 1 mm is made for grinding. The standard thickness of chipboard used for doors is 16 mm. This means that the groove width will be 17 mm. The depth is chosen from 15 to 20 mm, this is enough to securely fix the insert into the canvas frame. It should be remembered that in the interests of long-term operation, the depth of the groove is made 1.5–2 mm larger than the size of the spike. Another option is also possible, when the chipboard is attached to the frame of the canvas with glazing beads. Then, instead of a groove on the side racks, it is enough to choose a quarter.

   It is advisable to sample a quarter on a firmly fixed canvas.

3. Cutting the ends of the boards at an angle of 45 °. If it is possible to use an end circular, the process is greatly accelerated. But if it is not there, the marking is carried out with a simple protractor, and the cut will be performed with an ordinary circular or hand saw. It is important to accurately maintain the size to be measured along the long side of the door frame.

   The miter saw allows you to make a quality cut at any angle

4. Cut out the panels, in our case a chipboard sheet. The dimensions of the height and width are calculated based on the depth of the groove. The width of the two prepared boards (upper and lower) is subtracted from the total height of the doors and the depth of the groove is added. For example, with a door height of 2 m, a width of the upper and lower crossbars of 15 cm and a groove depth of 20 mm, we have: 2000- (150x2) + (20x2) = 174 cm.The same calculations are carried out for the width.
5. Primary installation. It is carried out for the final adjustment of all parts into a single design. Everything is assembled on a workbench (or on the floor), gaps and gaps are checked, the general geometry of the canvas. If "inconsistencies" are found, the canvas is disassembled and adjusted. If there are no deviations, the door can be fastened with confirms. To do this, first, holes are drilled for the diameter of the cap, then the screw is screwed in with the head immersed “flush”.
6. Door leaf decoration. Of the types available at home, painting and varnishing are the most acceptable. It will not work well to glue decorative foil or veneer on rounded surfaces. A spray gun can be a good help when applying a paint and varnish layer. It can be used to achieve a uniform coating on the door surface. However, here, too, certain experience and skills are required. Many experts believe that decorating is the most responsible and difficult stage in the manufacture of doors.

   Doors are varnished in a well-ventilated and well-lit room

7. Installation of fittings. Produced last when the product is already installed in the doorway. Prepare technological holes in advance for inserting the lock and handle. Recesses for awnings are cut with a chisel based on the size of the loops. The only exception is the rubber seal. If its configuration involves deepening into the massif, the groove is cut out at the preparation stage.
   

   The shape of the holes is determined by the configuration of the door hardware

Video: making an entrance wooden door with your own hands

Do-it-yourself barn door

For simple household needs, it is not necessary to assemble a paneled door with complex structural elements. A panel-type door, consisting of a prefabricated leaf and a plank door frame, is quite suitable for a utility room or a shed. Doors made of lining or tongue-and-groove boards are very convenient in this respect. These lumber are sold with grooves already cut and a smooth surface.

The manufacturing process is very simple:

Video: barn doors

Today, not only the townspeople, but also the bulk of the owners of suburban property prefer metal structures as entrance doors. In theory, they are much stronger, more reliable and more durable than wooden or plastic counterparts. But in fact, many solid-looking metal doors from the budget segment can be opened with a can opener, and the crowbar is a universal key for them. Installing a massive expensive structure is not affordable for everyone, and the high cost is not a guarantee of appropriate quality.

Therefore, craftsmen who have the skills of welding and the appropriate tool base prefer to make such doors on their own. In this situation, you can be confident in the strength of the frame, and in decent parameters of noise absorption and thermal insulation, and give the appearance in the general style. FORUMHOUSE users have also mastered the process and are sharing the results. We study their experience and - we cook a metal door.

• Experience is the best helper
• Useful tips for beginners from experienced

Metal entrance doors - constructive

In a typical version, a metal door consists of a frame, a leaf, hinges and mounting elements (plates, eyelets, pins). You cannot do without certain costs for materials and components, but a self-made door will cost much less than a purchased one. The exact list of consumables depends on the design, size and purpose - if for a fairly simple frame with trim and latch, then to enter the house the door must be multi-layer, with effective locking fittings and decorative cladding. In the second case, an approximate set of necessary items is as follows:

• Metal corner (from 5 mm) or profile - for the box;
• Metal corner or profile pipe - for the frame, stiffeners;
• Metal sheet - for power cladding (optimal thickness 2-3 mm).
• Thermal insulation material (mineral wool, foam, EPS or PSB);
• Accessories - hinges (preferably with bearings), seal, peephole, lock / locks, handle, etc.
• Finishing - wood, forging, plastic (for the inside, various panels or laminate).

One of the most important stages is measurements, if you make a mistake, the installation of the door will become much more complicated in the future, so it is worth adhering to certain recommendations:

• All measurements are not from the finishing layer, but from the rough wall;
• A groove should remain between the box and the opening, standard - 2 cm (for alignment and assembly seam);
• The gap between the box and the door leaf from the hinge side is 3 mm, from the lock side - 5 mm.

The presence of a working drawing with dimensions or at least a sketch will be a good help, not everyone's imagination is developed enough to imagine the final result in their minds. Fortunately, there are enough workable drawings on the Web, if drawing and drawing is also difficult.

Experience is the best helper

But the best helper is the experience that the members of our portal generously share.

A profile pipe 20x40 mm, a metal sheet with a thickness of 3 mm, went to the frame, mineral wool as an insulator, finishing - MDF.

Since it is necessary to cook the frame on a hard, flat surface, and the craftsman did not have a suitable cooking table, he used beams exposed in the same plane. He also used clamps to maintain the geometry of the product, some during the welding process slightly "stick" the elements to the cooking table. dronduletus made the door in several stages.

I cut the pipe to size, did not comply with the angles of 45⁰, since the welding was carried out end-to-end, assembled the frame, beat off the diagonal, grabbed it, checked it, secured it with clamps. I welded the frame and welded the stiffeners.

The sheet for the sheathing was cut, taking into account the allowances for the overlap along the entire perimeter (1.5 cm), and fixed on the frame with clamps. I welded it first from the inside of the frame - from the middle to the edge, with tacks (about 2 cm with a step of 15-20 cm). To make the leaf less likely, I cooked diagonally - opposite sides in different directions. After that, I boiled the outer seams in a similar way, cleaned it with a grinder, and boiled it along the stiffeners in the same order. It was possible to do with one edge, but the sheet was bent. Next I welded a "pocket" under the lock - I cut out a groove in the end face, scalded it with profile scraps along the perimeter.

The box was cooked from a corner 40x40 mm, for the threshold I used a channel, 100x50mm, when cutting segments I added gaps not only on the hinges and the lock, but also up and down (4 mm each). As a protection from those who like to profit from someone else's good, I welded on additional plates / plugs over the place where the crossbar will enter across the entire width (on both sides). I welded metal strips to fix the box to the wall (two on top and three on the sides). Protected not only from knocking out the bolt, but also from removing the door from the hinges.

dronduletus

I welded pieces of a corner 8 cm wide inside the door, on the back side of the frame, lifting it by 8 mm - these are anti-removable crabs.

I welded the canopies in a horizontal position - putting the canvas in a box and placing a steel plate 2 mm thick between the canopy and the curtain, so that afterwards stick the sealant and avoid friction. I welded the canopies at a distance of 25 cm from the edge of the canvas to the center of each canopy, after checking the level and fixing it with clamps.

Since the walls are old and leaves much to be desired, he abandoned conventional anchors, and used the pins only to fix the threshold (channel). The box was attached to studs 25 cm long (12 mm in diameter) and chemical anchors, after mounting the box, I hung the door and drilled holes for the crossbar. I put insulation in the cavity of the door, sewed everything up with MDF panels, painted it.

Another member of the portal did not photograph the process, but his observations will be useful to everyone who is going to start making the door.

outsayder FORUMHOUSE member

I also welded the doors, in the process I did not take a photo, but I will tell you the subtleties. I did it with my father-in-law, they welded a bunch of these doors as a sabbat at the factory.

Do-it-yourself metal door, life faqs and conclusions:

• It is better to take iron for cladding hot rolled, cold rolled tight with geometry and right angles;
• To weld the hinge plate to the box with a clamp, hold it slightly and release it immediately. When the seam cools down, the plate will bend with the required clearance. All loops are scalded after fixation;

• If you make a special device (as in the figure), pressing the sheet against the corner during welding will avoid "bubbles";

• So that during the operation of the door the leaf does not touch the frame, the hinges are welded so that the axis of the hinge falls on the edge of the sheet;

An intermediate rough result in the photo.

Master81 welded two metal doors - double and single (255x110 mm and 210x0.72 mm), and looking at his creation, it is clear that he is "on a short leg" with metal.

The box was cooked from a corner with a thickness of five millimeters, six is ​​possible, but four is undesirable, a frame made of a 40x20 mm profile pipe. The manufacture of the structure did not cause any difficulties.

Master81 FORUMHOUSE Member

I measured the doorway, minus a centimeter from the width and length, cut the corner with a grinder exactly, first assembled the box, then the frame under the door.

Another of our craftsmen, a FORUMHOUSE member from Moscow with a nickname oss, has already made the sixth metal door, if you count the garage door. The canvas is three millimeters thick, the frame is made of a profile pipe 50x40x3 mm, like most, but he approached the issue of safety thoroughly. Armored pad, inner pad, lever lock with four crossbars, protective shutter in the well. These improvements have increased the cost of the product, but peace of mind is more expensive. Lack of photo oss compensates with an optimized build process and helpful tips.

oss FORUMHOUSE Member

Before that, he made doors in various ways, including first strapping, and then tacking and assembling the frame. The sequence chosen this time seems more optimistic.

The optimized version looks like this:

• I started with the front vertical profile, made a frame, fixed a lock in the frame, checked how it works;
• I made the rear vertical profile, immediately welded the anti-strippers (behind the hinges);
• Collected the entire frame from profiles for potholders;
• Cut out the skin on the frame (with an overlap of 20 mm);
• I "made a profit" on the sheet, sealed it with tacks with a step of 150 mm;
• In the racks of the box (strapping), I cut out grooves for crossbars and anti-strippers;
• I welded a box with gaps (3 and 5 mm);
• I welded on the hinges.

O ss advises to insert one combined door lock instead of two different types.

Output

In the topic on the forum dedicated to, the opinion was expressed that the costs of homemade products will be tangible, and the savings will not be so significant that the game is worth the candle. However, for skilled hands, the manufacturing process is quite feasible, and the ability to choose decent materials, and not guess what is inside a purchased structure, is an important factor. Therefore, while some are talking about expediency, others are doing and sharing real experience in order to facilitate the task for beginners.

How to save money on wooden entrance doors, you can find out from the article - also on our portal. In the video - an overview of popular new doors from the famous exhibition.

There is always a free piece of land next to a private house or summer cottage where you can build a small but extremely useful structure - a barn. Its purpose is very diverse, from storing equipment and solid fuel for the stove, to keeping animals. Most often, wood is used to build a barn. And this is fully justified: it is affordable, durable and easy to use. You can build a structure with your own hands, following a simple step-by-step instructions.

The first questions that need to be resolved before starting construction: where and from what to build a barn? The area of ​​the plots is often limited, so you need to use the land to the maximum. Alternatively, you can build a shed against one of the walls of the house or fence. If there is enough space, then you can choose absolutely any place, the main thing is that the building is convenient to use.

You can build a wooden shed from different materials:

The first two types of wood will provide a solid, durable and warm building, but the construction process requires large financial and physical costs. The remaining species are suitable for lightweight structures that will be used as storage space, they will certainly be cheaper, and even one person can build such a barn.

The advantages of a wooden shed:

• Possibility to build "warm" and "cold" construction options;
• Fast construction time;
• Availability and wide range of materials for construction;
• Ecological cleanliness of wood;
• The ability to use any decorative finishes and lightweight types of foundations.

Do not forget about the appearance of the barn. It should be in harmony with other buildings on the site. To achieve the unity of the exterior, you can use modern finishing materials, such as siding or corrugated board.
In order not to be mistaken when calculating the amount of materials, it is necessary to prepare in advance a plan with the exact dimensions of the barn and make markings on the plot of land.

You also need to stock up on fasteners, tools and materials for arranging the foundation and decorative finishes, if required.

Construction of a barn from a bar or log

If an outbuilding is to serve for many years, then it is best to choose a timber or a log as the basis for the walls, because the service life of buildings from them can reach 70 years. These materials will provide high-quality thermal insulation in case livestock or poultry are kept in the house. The building is also suitable for storing inventory. To build a large barn will require additional working hands.

It is better not to use a barn made of timber or logs for storing firewood, since there is insufficient ventilation in it to dry the heating oil.

Foundation preparation

If there is no time to prepare the foundation, you can replace it with pillars dug to a depth of 60-80 cm.

The principle of laying the foundation is similar to that described above.

Tying and erection of the frame

It is more convenient to start construction with the arrangement of the site, which will serve as a floor and foundation for the construction of walls. The lower harness must be made from a bar of 150x150 mm, treated with an antiseptic. Previously, the foundation must be covered with roofing material to protect the structure from moisture.

The harness beams can be joined end-to-end and fixed with metal corners, or in half a tree. In the second case, the joints must be secured with nails or pins.

The floor lags are attached to the strapping with special brackets or corners. For this, boards of 50-60 mm are placed on the edge and fixed with self-tapping screws on the beams with a step of no more than 60 cm. Align the location of the logs along the upper edge of the strapping so that the surface is even when laying the floor.

The next stage is the installation of the floor. It can be fixed with screws or nails. It is important to make sure that there are no gaps, and that the outer contours of the floorboard or OSB coincide with the lower strapping.

Then racks are mounted at the corners of the base and fastened with an upper strapping. To make it easier for yourself to work with the construction of a pitched roof, the racks can be immediately adjusted in size, two of them should be 50-80 cm higher. For a gable roof, all racks must be made the same. Further, additional supports are installed along the perimeter of the walls every 50 cm and openings for windows and doors are formed.

Roof construction

For a shed, it is advisable to erect a pitched roof - it is quick and economical. Moreover, the attic is rarely used in such small buildings.

If the upper harness is at an angle, then the rafters from the boards can be laid directly on it, turning them on the edge. The distance between them should be no more than 50 cm so that the roof can withstand a heavy snow load.

A plank lathing is laid on the rafter system. The pitch depends on the roofing material. Under the roofing material - the crate should be solid, under the ondulin you can lay boards with a distance of no more than 40 cm, under the corrugated board, a step of 60 cm is permissible.

Wall cladding and installation of doors and windows

Wall cladding can be done with OSB or board (edged and unedged). Plates and edged boards are laid end-to-end and fixed with screws or nails. Unedged lumber is mounted with an overlap so that there are no gaps between the boards.

It is better to use ready-made windows, since their manufacture requires the skills of a carpenter. The door can also be custom made from wood, metal or plastic, or cut from an OSB board and reinforced with bars.

All stages of the construction of a frame shed can be clearly studied from the presented video.

Finishing

OSB or plank does not always look attractive. In addition, if the boards are waterproof, then the lumber needs protection from moisture, sunlight and insects. Therefore, the decorative cladding of a frame shed is an almost indispensable condition for the durability and aesthetics of the appearance.

Also, under the shed, you can arrange a cellar that you can make yourself.

You can sheathe a building with different types of materials. When choosing them, you should be guided by the exterior of the adjacent buildings. For example, siding is able to perfectly imitate brick, log and other materials, if a professional sheet is used in the decoration of the house, then the shed should be sheathed with it, choosing the appropriate shade.

Household or country outbuildings are most often erected from wood and its derivatives. These materials provide the variability of construction, and the quality of the finished barn. If you do all the work correctly, then the building will last a very long time, retain an attractive appearance and will not lose its functionality. Therefore, it is so important to follow all stages of construction from laying the foundation to decorative finishing.

As you probably remember, I did not have enough lumber to complete the construction of the barn, and the completion of the work had to be postponed. And finally, after 2 seasons, I started the last stage of construction.
The boards I needed were left from the construction of the house, which I will tell you about in another section of the site. It remains to buy two wooden doors with boxes and the necessary hardware inventory: door hinges (left), handles, as well as fireproofing for wood with the colors "maple" and "pine".

If you remember, I left the barn in this unfinished state:

I started work, perhaps, from the most difficult moment - the assembly and installation of door frames. I bought the doors made of solid wood, and as a box, each door was supplied with a set in the form of three bars with cuts made in them for the door leaf. Therefore, I had to take measurements, cut these bars taking into account the door gaps and connect them into a box.

We install the inner door.

I started by installing an inner door leading to that part of the barn, which I prepared for a small workshop.

On the one hand, the assembled box was fixed to a vertical wall beam, on the other hand, for fixing the box, I put a vertical stand from a forty board trimming, since there are quite a lot of such two-meter scraps left in the manufacture of rafters.

Then I had to tinker a little with the installation of the loops. To do this, first I set the lower gap between the door and the frame with the help of the corners slipped in - it is convenient to adjust the gap with them by increasing or decreasing it by hammering or pulling out the corner.

Then, having marked the locations of the upper and lower hinges, using a set of chisels, I chose excess wood (about 2-3 mm) so that when installed, the hinge would sink a little in the frame and door leaf.
Having hooked the upper and lower hinges to the door on a pair of self-tapping screws, I put pieces of wood of suitable size under the door leaf and, adjusting the hinges to fit their places, finally fixed the door in the box.

We install the outer door.

Following the same principle, I installed an outer door in the barn. Only in this case, as the second vertical support for the door frame, I used a piece of timber and on top a piece of a forty-piece board. He also fixed them with steel corners and sewed them on the side diagonally with self-tapping screws.

It was necessary to use a 100x100 beam due to the convenience of attaching the outer wall boards, as well as in the future door platbands, under the vertical board of which we leave a gap in the thickness of the board used (about 25 mm).

Important! Let me remind you that I processed all the boards from the front (outer) side with an electric plane. At the same time, we save impregnation for wood, and also increase the resistance of wood to adverse external influences of water.

For the convenience of working with the plane, I slightly modernized the goats for sawing firewood, namely: I screwed two planks to the "horns" of the goats with self-tapping screws. Now it has become convenient to put a whole board on them and go through with a plane.

We sew up the wall with a board.

Well, and then everything is as easy as shelling pears - we cut the board to size and sew it in place where it should be.
I sewed up the inner wall, between the woodshed and the workshop, with boards end-to-end, having previously processed them with a plane on all sides, paying special attention to the "ribs" to minimize gaps. They, of course, are still formed when the wood dries, well, for aesthetics ...))

I had to tinker a little with the outer wall so that the boards did not start to "peck" up or down. For control, I used a level, and also took measurements along the sheathed wall through the door for each board from the bottom.

Having finished with the sewing of the outer front wall, I left a section not sewn over the door for installing a small visor there in the future. Below you will see what I mean.

Having finished painting, he proceeded to the manufacture and installation of door trims and a visor over the door. Well, there is nothing special to explain, everything can be seen in the photo.